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Tutorial

Double Layered Textured Bob Cut with a Razor

Tutorial

Double Layered Textured Bob Cut with a Razor

In this tutorial we look at a textured bob haircut that's stylish and modern. With lots of movement and separation this is a bob cut perfect for the new year! If you're looking for bob haircut ideas as a hairstylist, this one says 2026. Bob haircuts will always be in style and with a wide variety of bob hairstyles, textured hair gives the most modern look. Watch this video and follow along with the transcript below.    Textured Bob Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an experiment in a double layered overt bob. Double layered means it's going to have more layering than you think a bob can have. Overt because we're going to open everything up and show you exactly how to do it. Is it still going to look like a bob with that much layering? Yes, it will. Still going to be a bob. Alright, so let's get started. Let's start with some sectioning here. We're going to take a side section to the quarter part, then down to the nape. And then we're going to section out right behind the ear.   Establishing the Length I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the limited edition wood-look. I'm also using the Standard Blade. Starting on the side, I'm going to take a little section of hair right above the ear and use that to get the lengths balanced on both sides. This is also going to be my length for when I go through and hold this straight up in the air and layer it. So, I see that piece falling out. That's the length that I'm going to use as my guide to cut that length right through there. By cutting my length guide first and using that as my layering guide, it prevents me from cutting my layering too short. You'll also see me using that length that I cut initially as the visual for me to pinch cut all this length here and start to build my one length shape. So by pinching a little section of hair that wants to separate together, that's going to allow me to build up a bob-like shape without going through and cutting everything perfectly blunt. So, by leaving it a little haphazard and some sections a little longer and some a little shorter, I can get a lot of movement through it without it being really hard or blunt. And the more movement that I have, the more visually interesting that the shape can be and the more ways that I can style it and the broader range of hair textures that I can put this shape on. After we've done one side, we've got it like we want, we'll go through and match that to the other side until both sides match. Now, I'll start in the center of the nape.   Collapsing the Shape I'm going to pull this center part of the section straight up in the air and cut that about an inch longer than my parting right there at the occipital bone. Now, granted this is very, very short right here in the nape, but because I'm pulling it up, it's going to leave me length on the bottom. But it's also going to collapse the shape. So, it's going to keep the shape from being too thick and too bulky and not having that same movement that I'm going to have on the sides. So, I can match the fluidity and the movement from the back into the sides. Now, I'll just match this on both sides. Pull everything straight up using the center section as my initial guide and blending it towards each side. There we go. A good look at it right there. Going from center out. Just keeping the same broad razor stroke that I was using throughout. Once I got that done, check it out.   Blending Around the Ears Now, we're going to go through and blend the section right behind the ear. We're going to hold that straight up in the air just like I did the other sections underneath, but this time I'm using the length that I used on the sides, not the length I used in the back. I'm going to match this on both sides. So, I'm leaving a little bit more length and a little bit more density right behind the ear because that section of the head doesn't have as much hair. So, it gives me a good way to blend. And by having that a little bit weightier and a little bit heavier, (that kind of looks like a cool mullet right there by the way) but by having that section behind the ear a little weightier and heavier, it also makes my bob a little stronger. If I was to layer that as much as I had layered the back, my bob shape is not going to be as strong.   Addressing the Back Now, we're going to hold everything straight down. I'm going to cut my one length that I choose in the back. I'll take a little bit of weight out right through there and then just lay the blade flat across the section and cut my one length right in the back. Now, I'm not worried about this being the same length all the way around for a one length bob. I want to bevel this a little bit towards the sides. So, I'm going to leave it a little longer in the back and then round my corner out as I start working from the back into the sides. I want that kind of bevel.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Short Front, Long Back I have been fascinated with a lot of the Asian bobs that we're seeing and they're all beveled around the front. A little shorter in the back and a little, I'm sorry, a little shorter in the front and longer in the back. And I find that very visually interesting when it's coming to these bob shapes. Now, we're going to take a little section right in the front, right there in the center of the front section of the head. I'm going to comb that down. And this is going to be the guide for my shortest layer. It's not going to be the bangs. It's going to be the guide for the shortest layer. I'll take a center section, hold that straight up and using that short little piece that I just cut as my guide, I'm going to start cutting from shorter to longer. So, I'm trying to keep this idea and this feeling of shorter around the face, a little longer in the back, but I don't want it to be completely bi-level. I want it to blend through. So, by holding this straight up and cutting my layering from short to long in the back, I can remove more weight around the front, but still have a good solid bob shape. But it introduces movement where it flows around the front a little bit more. Because it's shorter in the front, longer in the back, hair flows to its longest piece. I'll take a parallel section, hold that straight up into the center of the head, following my initial guide, and then razor that through just as I did in my previous section. I'm taking a pretty large section here. And then also with the hair underneath as my guide, that's a pretty thick section. So, if you can't work in sections as big as I am, it's easy to take much smaller sections. Again, pulling everything to the center of the head using my guide lengths from underneath. And anything that hangs over that I get to cut off. Keeping the same razor stroke that I was underneath, now I'll take everything on this side of the head. The underneath is going to fall out, but anything on the rest of the head, I'm going to pull up into the center and cut those lengths off. Make sure you keep a good firm grip on the hair and it makes it easier to cut. Now, after I finish the left side, I will go through and do the exact same thing on the right side. After I finish both sides and it's looking the way I want, I'll take a center section again and start blending that through the back. I'll take my center section in the back. I'll hold that straight up. You'll see my guide length from the front right through there. And then I'll continue cutting that length all the way back. But I'm not increasing my length as I go back like I did in the front. I'm cutting everything just horizontal straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   So after we cut that all the way down till we run out of hair, I'll take a parallel section just like I did in the front. Hold that up into the center again. And using my guide from underneath, anything that hangs over, I will cut off. As I'm working these layers through into the nape, I'm not increasing the length. I'm keeping it the same. Or I could layer it down and bevel the shape a little bit more depending upon the thickness of the hair. And I'll just keep working this section over until I run out of hair on the right side. Then I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the left side. There we go. Looking good. And you can see that long little corner right through there, right behind the ear because the hairline behind the ear doesn't have any hair. So I need to add a little bit more weight to make sure I can keep my bob shape.   Beveling Now I'm going to start right in the center just like I was doing underneath on the sides. I'll take a little section. I'll pinch it into my fingers and then cut that until I can bevel it. So, I'll start cutting on one side, then maybe on the other side. And I want to keep piecing that out and just little pinches of hair so I can start fitting my bob shape in. This is where the bob starts to really pop. But by going through and doing this, it gives me a lot of movement and a lot of variation and a lot of softness, but it doesn't build up an overly strong structured shape. And I just keep working that all the way around until I get the shape looking like I want on my perimeter. So in this shape, I've gone through and layered it first and then cut my perimeter shape into it. 99% of the time I will go through, cut my perimeter shape and then layer it. If I go through and I'm trying to get a lot of texture and a lot of lightness and a lot of airiness in it, by cutting the perimeter first, I've already made it too solid and it's very, very difficult to get that solidity out of it once I put it in.   The Bangs Now, we're going to go through and take our little section right around the front and make sure that that blends into where my shortest layer was. So, I'll start in the center and just bevel that a little longer towards the corners on the sides. So, it's shorter in the middle, a little longer towards the left and a little longer towards the right. Now, after I've got everything fit in, I'm going to go through and put a little undercut bang right here in the front. I think a little undercut will give it a little bit more airiness and poppiness around the front without being overly solid or overly styled. So, we're going to start in the center doing the same thing. Just pinching into a little section. Cutting it visually as I see it needs to be cut. Doing the same thing on both sides. Shorter in the center, a little longer as it goes towards each side. Now, this shape offers a lot of variation depending upon hair types like the thickness or the thinness of the hair. You could even do this on curly hair, but I might use a scissor to point cut it as opposed to a razor depending on the texture of the hair.   Textured Bob with Bangs Final Look  After I get all that done, I'm going to go through and blow it dry. And you can really see the texture popping here. And I like it. Here's our end result. And I think that we have a really strong bob shape to it even though we have double layered it. We've layered it underneath so much that it barely has any shape at all. But we still have a strong perimeter shape. We've layered the top maximum layer that you can get into it with a razor, but yet we still have a strong solid bob shape. And I think the benefit of going through and razoring the layering first and controlling how much layering we're taking out and then going back in and putting in our perimeter shape, it really helps us control exactly how strong of a perimeter shape that we put into it. Add this textured bob cut with layers to your repertoire. Experiment with it a little bit. Get your doll head and play around and I think it will open up a whole new world of possibilities for your layering and your razoring. If you're looking for bob ideas or specifically textured bobs, this one is a good one to pin.  Please check out the Jatai Academy. There are all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. There are also a ton of other not so classic and classic bob tutorials. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, post below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you then.  
Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe

Tutorial

Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial

In this layered graduated bob with fringe tutorial, Russell Mayes explores a popular older women's hairstyle that consists of layers, graduation and more layers. This layered bob haircut starts with an inverted bob followed by graduation and then more layering on top. The techniques discussed are great for removing bulk from thick short hair. Finally, bangs are added followed by some blending. Short bob haircuts have always been popular but modifying them based on hair texture and designing bob hairstyles to complement client face shapes, hair texture and density is always a challenge. Watch this short layered inverted bob with bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on how to add layering to graduation. How to keep the graduation from being too thick and overly mushroomy, how to keep it more modern. And it works really well on super thick hair or hair that's really stiff and needs a little bit of pop from some movement. We're going to show you how to add the graduation and where to add it. We're going to show you how to add layering, where to add it, and how to disconnect everything but still make it look like it's connected. So, let's get started.   Inverted Layers So, we're starting here in the nape. I took a center part all the way down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's my first flat section I'm working with in the back. I'm taking my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in version. I like the point on these scissors. And the blade is very, very sharp, but the point is not overly bitey, so I don't have to worry about poking myself if I'm doing a lot of um point cutting. Here, we're going to take a center section, and I'm going to determine if I want graduation or if I want layering. This first section, I'm actually going to invert the layering a little bit. So, it's going to be a little shorter at the occipital bone and then a little longer towards the hairline. So while this looks like it could be graduation based upon the head shape, it's actually layered quite a bit because it's shorter at the top of the section and longer at the bottom. So, by layering this first section, especially on these graduated type of shapes, this can make the shape instantly start getting very, very full and very bulky. Now, if I have someone with thinner hair, then that's definitely what I want. But on someone with thick hair or where it's very stiff and doesn't move, by going through and layering this first section, it helps it lay down a little bit closer against the head so I don't build up so much volume. I started in the center. I determined what type of layering I wanted and now I'm walking my guide towards the left and then towards the right. So the way I do that is I take the center as my guide, determine what my length is, and then add the next section to the left, a parallel section. I comb those two sections into the center and cut. And then I remove the previously cut section. And my new guide is the guide for the next section as I walk all the way over to the left. And now I'm going all the way over to the right. So it's just continuing to take the same length in the center and work that towards each side. I want to try to maintain as even of a balance as I can between both sides. Now, here you see me, I'm just going through and just cleaning it up, making sure it's nice and clean. After I finish that, I'll move on to the next section.   Graduation The next section is going up to two flat sections of the head and then to the top of the ear. Now, here you'll see the underneath completely drops out. And I'm going to completely ignore that guide and create a new guide. This is where the graduation of the haircut really starts to happen. So, whatever angle of graduation I create, you can see here which is fairly steep, that's going to be what the visual representation of my graduation is going to be. And you can see it's already, even though it's sitting on top of a layered section underneath, it still has that typical classic graduated shape, even though it's less voluminous because the underneath hair has been layered. I'll continue to just walk my guide from the center over to the right. And I'll check each time to make sure I'm building up a consistent flow of graduation from the center out. Try to maintain the same levels of elevation that I was going through and trying to maintain cutting directly on top of my previously cut guide as I start to work around the sides.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of any future Jatai Academy content.   Continuing to take my vertical sections as I walk around to the head. And here is a really good angle to see what type of graduation that I'm putting into it. And I'm just continuing to work this around. This is what you would consider classic round graduation because the shape is round vertically and horizontally. That looks pretty good. So now we're going to continue on to the next two flats up into the top of the crown. We're going to move that around to the front of the hairline at the bottom of the recession.   Layering Now, this section, you can see where my graduation is starting to fall out of my fingers. And then I'm going about a finger length further and cutting that straight up and down. So, by cutting that section straight up and down and leaving it a little longer, it really kind of exaggerates the graduated shape, but it doesn't add volume to it like if I was to continue to graduate this shape. So by pulling it up and cutting it straight up and down, I'm actually layering this top section. So I have layering for the first nape section. I graduate to center right at the curve of the head at the occipital bone and above to the drop crown. Now from the drop crown above, I'm pulling that up and layering it again. So I have layer, graduation and layer. So, it seems counterintuitive that I would want a graduated shape that has more layering in it than it has graduation. But because we put that graduation right in the center and sandwiched between those two layered sections, it really gives me a nice smooth graduated shape, but without that stiffness and that bulkiness that comes from that kind of brutalist aesthetic that Sassoon had back in the 70s that on certain types of hair, it was just very very stiff and had no movement to it. And if you didn't style it properly, it just looks completely out of sorts. By having this layering in it, it lightens it up and it loosens it up and gives it a lot more free flow. Here we've done both sides. And I think that that looks pretty good. It really collapses the nape there quite well and still gives me that nice graduated shape. Now we're going to go through and start working on the top.   Top Section I'm going to take a center section from the back all the way to the front. I'm going to pull the crown up. I'm going to take that guide that I had cut underneath from my layering section. And now I'm going to continue vertically layering this at 90° all the way from the back into the front. This is just going to remove a lot of excess length that I don't need. I'll hold this straight up at 90 from each section of the head as I'm working from back to front. Now, this shape gives me a lot of versatility and a lot of variations that I can layer into this and add into this shape because everything is kind of disconnected and I'm not building up this architecturally over structured shape that doesn't allow for any kind of variation. This shape, because there's so much disconnection in it, gives me that option. Now, instead of taking sub-sections and holding everything up into the center where my layering guide was initially, I'm going to take the entire right side of this head because there's no hair from the underneath. I'm going to pull everything straight up into the center and cut that.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to pull everything over into the center until I completely run out of hair. Once I finish my layering here on the top, I'm going to go through and anything that hangs over from this top layering hangs over the underneath section that I've already cut. I'm going to go through and double check here and make sure that it doesn't hang over. So, I'm just going to clean this up. There's a little bit of hair that hangs over. So, I'm just going to go through and vertically section like I did my layering underneath in the third section that I took. And make sure nothing hangs over that so we have a cleaner shape. I could have done this first and then layered it, but I find that I would end up taking more time cutting the hair on top that I end up cutting shorter anyway. So, this way I'll end up cutting less hair, making sure it blends.   The Fringe Now, we're going to go through and take our bang section. We're going to take a pretty good section to the corner of the hairline right there at the recession. And then I'm going to subsection that into a small little section that goes right to the corner of the eye on each side. This is the hair that's going to hang right in the center of the face. Going to create a straight bang here, but curtain bangs or side swept bangs work well too. I'm going to hold that down and cut that to where it hits right at the center of the eye. This is a very popular aesthetic in Japan where it's like right at the most irritating length at the eyeball. Now I'm going to hold this section up and then layer that section just to bevel that edge right there around the face a little bit. So it keeps it blunt but it bevels that edge so it softens it up just a little bit but still maintains that real solid shape. Now we're going to take the rest of the section, hold it down, and I'm going to determine the length that I'm going to right there at the jaw. Cut a little bit right there so I have a guide, and then I can match that on the other side. So, I'll figure out where it is on the other side. Make sure I'll double check and then go through and cut it shorter than the other side. Oh well, we'll figure it out.   Blending Now, I'm going to comb this forward, take the center out of it, and then connect the guides that I've created. I've got the shorter guide in the center that I've created going to that longer guide right at the edge. And that's going to give me a nice really steep line that's going to brush that bang out of the face a little bit. Now, we're going to go through and take a real vertical section here, right above the ear. Hold that down. And I'm going to look at where my little graduated short length bob was starting in the back. Hold this section straight down and then visualize where I want that to go. Now, this is the part here that can really make the shape a little more conservative or a little bit more edgy and soft. I'm going for a little more blunt of a shape, but you could certainly, you know, go through and make sure that this is a lot longer and piecier and a little bit more um, you know, Korean in its aesthetic, I think. So, now we're going to take the next section down, comb that straight down, point cut that through to make sure that my edge is soft right through there, so I have a little bit more flow And I'm not being real precise with this section. I'm allowing the shape to have some movement to it and some softness and some flow to it. Everything has been real structured in this with blunt lines that I've cut. So right here around the edge where I want a little bit more exaggerated movement, I'm going to go through and soften that up by point cutting it. Now we take our last section and you see that little corner that just hangs out there between the back and into the sides and I'll cut that through so we make sure we have a nice smooth blend from our graduation to the back into the sides.   Texturing and Removing Weight Now I'm going to take my Feather Styling Razor and I have the pink version. And then I'm going to add the Texturizing Blade. So this blade has little guards that cover every other section of the blade so that as I run this across the hair, it doesn't cut everything straight across. It gives me little channels so I can add some texture to it and remove a little bit of weight. You may not need to do this part if working on fine hair. So I make this softer without necessarily going through and adding deep channels to it like I would if I was to hold this section vertically and cut into it with my regular styling blade. So, after I finish doing some sculpture cutting in the back, I'm going to take each section horizontally and just add a little bit of texture to it just to create some more internal variation and to give me a little bit more softening and some interest to it. Now, depending upon the hair, I may do a little bit more, I may do a little bit less. But because I've cut this shape very very blunt except for that little bit right in front of the ear. This gives me a still solid shape but softens it up internally and gives me a little bit more visual interest. I'm really liking the texture that we have there. I think that looks pretty good. Now we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it. I'm going to use my Du-Boa High-Tech Brush to polish everything off and then a little bit of styling wax after. You can also use a round brush to style it.   Final Look Well, here is our end result. And I think that we got a really, really nice shape. I think that by going through putting our layering first, our graduation second, then layering on top, it really gives us a nice graduated shape without it being too mushroomy or too stiff or without it looking like, you know, grandma's graduation. This haircut doesn't have to look like a women over 60s haircut. It keeps it more modern. And and let's face it, most modern haircuts have a lot more texture to it than the the stuff from the 60s and 70s that were just overly stiff. So, I think that this works really really well. I like this kind of heavy bang that hits right in the eye and kind of blends into the side. And I think we've got just the right amount of texture to where the bottom lays flat, but we still have a nice little pop here for our graduation. It kind of makes it look like a shaggy bob. This kind of bob works well on straight hair, but can be adapted to wavy hair or curly hair. You can also add a pop of hair color or highlights for additional points of interest. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.
Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement

Tutorial

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement. For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary. We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob. We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob. There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started. So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of. Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.   Establishing the One Length Structure Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client. Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke. Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible. Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement. The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good. Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide. Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky. And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful. So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line. There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section. I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line. Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt. Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape. So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape. The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer. So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath. Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut. After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around. So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.   Vertical Sectioning So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off. Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall. If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down. Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.   Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing. And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated. Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility. So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial

Choppy short layered hair is popular hairstyle among older women but it can be modernized for younger looks. Short layered haircuts are not necessarily easy to do. Choppy layers can tend to look lumpy if done improperly and can really stand out if done on thick hair. Short choppy haircuts are a type of layered bob that's textured. While not a pixie cut, they are short hairstyles that have a lot of style and can compliment the face nicely. Watch this short choppy layered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. You've seen a choppy bob. Well, we're going to do some chop graduation today. Chop graduation is a little more difficult because you have to worry about the graduation starting to look lumpy. And lumpy graduation always looks bad. So, we have to apply the right amount of texture in the right way. Section it so that we can avoid that. We're going to show you how to do all that as we get started and I'm going to blow it dry without using my hands at all. Only the power of the blow dryer.   Back of the Head So, let's get started here in the nape. We're going to take a section across and split the top from the bottom. Then, in the center, we're going to take a diagonal section. And I'm going to hold my scissors out behind on top of my fingers and just go through and cut whatever angle of graduation that I want. Using that as my guide, I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor, which is a razor without a guard. It gives me the most control and has the sharpest blade. This is the limited edition white. And so get them while you can. So I'll start and follow the guide that I did in the center with the scissor. And I'm going to alternate scissor and then razor. So this section here, I'm pulling out the same angle of elevation, following the same angle of graduation. And I'm gonna go through and just chop that line in with my scissors to get my graduation into it. Now, I'm not trying to be real precise with this. Each section that I take, I'm going to alternate. So, this section, I'm going to follow the guide and use my razor to go through and chop the section. So, each section is going to fluctuate between more texture and softness and more texture and structure. This is my Tokyo Scissor from Jatai. It is the longest blade I have at 6 inches. It has a nice point. It's very sharp. And I like the longer blade for doing this technique because on the opposite side, it makes it much easier to cut on top of my fingers like I'm doing now. Here, I'm going through and using my Feather Plier Razor to go through and put my chop graduation in. Now, typical, you know, school of thought is that if I do this, it's going to be really, really lumpy and look really, really bad. But because I'm taking very, very thin sections and I'm elevating it at a higher level of graduation, it makes a much smoother blend. So, I can get that texture from chopping into it without it being very, very lumpy. Now, on the other side, you can see why I like a longer scissor. It makes it so much easier to cut on top of my fingers to make my choppy graduation blend at the same angles. And that I'm cutting from the top down. I'll do the razor exactly the same on the other side, just keeping my choppiness as even and as consistent as possible. After I finish the underneath, we're going to move on to the top of the head. I'm going to start at the same angle for my partings and I'm going to try to elevate at the exact same angle that I did underneath using my razor following the same method of keeping a short little choppy stroke so I can start to build the weight of the graduation without too much weight that I start to create lumpiness here. Going in with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor and going through and putting a little choppy graduation into it as I work from top down. And each section that I cut, I want to comb it and see how the weight distribution is and make sure that my graduation is consistent because this is purely a visual type of haircut. Though I'm sectioning it technically and I'm elevating it technically, my cut is purely visual. So, I have to check it a lot along the way to make sure that I can get both sides even and that I get a consistent type of graduation because it's real easy to get this really really inconsistent and then it starts to look bad.   Sides of the Head Working from the back of the head into the side of the head and I will just follow and build each section coming from the back into the sides. Now, you'll notice that when you're doing short graduation like this, it's going to start to stack up in the nape. And then as I get to the edges around the ears, it's going to start to build up a little bit more weight. So, that's where I'm getting that bob shape from on the sides. Following through, not trying to be real precise, just trying to be real consistent. And this is one of those haircuts you just have to build it and look at it each step of the way.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Still alternating between the razor and the straight scissor just to get a variation in my texture. When I did this type of shape with a bob, it's a lot easier because you don't have to worry about the weight distribution and you don't have to worry about the blend as much because when you're dealing with one length, once you get that shape in on the bottom, you don't have to worry about seeing the choppiness of it other than it flicking out the separation on the bottom. So here, just being patient, working from back to front and trying to build my shape visually. If I need to fine-tune it, I'll fine-tune it. Like that little piece, I thought maybe it was a little heavy, but we'll see. I may fine-tune that a little bit more as we go. Pulling out. Following my guide from underneath. Keeping my scissor and my razor stroke as consistent as possible. There we go. And I like where that's starting to hit on the jawline. Now, from here, I got my last section. I'll take a little bit of the previously cut hair as my guide as I start to work into the sides. I want to make sure that as I start to apply each new cut that I'm using the guide and not recutting into the guide. That's a difficult thing. So, it's okay to not be exactly on top of your guide as you're working this shape. That's why every time I finish a section, I want to comb it and see how it fits. Now, we're going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to make sure that the blade of my razor slides through the hair a lot easier and gives me a very, very consistent result. And I'll use it mostly when I'm doing internal texturing with the razor.   Removing Weight And I'm going to go through, pull out each section, and with my Feather Plier Razor, just go through and as delicately as possible, go through and channel cut to remove some of the weight because these mannequin heads have a lot of weight. I want to maintain that corner in the front. That's why I keep pulling that out and showing that corner. I don't really texturize that much or remove that much weight. I want to keep that solid. Here's a good angle to see how I'm trying to apply this texturizing very very finely and judiciously so I can remove weight more than creating separation. You'll notice that I tend to close the blade in between taking sections and that just gives me a little extra protection and make sure that I'm respecting the blade so I don't cut myself. And just continue to work up until I run out of hair.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And here, I'll just continue to visually remove as much weight as I feel needs to, to help that hair kind of lay down and not get too puffy and bell-like in its shape. I think that when it gets too bell-like, it tends to look a little dated, even though this haircut has a lot of modern texture to it.   Blowdrying Now, when I go to blow this dry, I first started just using the blow dryer to go through and start getting some aeration in it and getting some volume to it. And I think it started to look really good. So, I just used the blow dryer and that's all. I didn't use my fingers to stretch it out. I didn't do anything other than on the bangs. I kind of blew the bangs down with a little bit of a brush to make sure that they're smooth. But everything else is just using that blow dryer to get volume and allow the hair to naturally separate and get the texture that I've built into it by applying the structure of the haircut. Then just a little finger styling to make sure that everything pops and it shows the texture like we want and that I don't have anything that I need to fine-tune.   Final Look All right, here's our end result. And I think that uh I think that that looks pretty good for not using my hands and it blowing it dry and just letting the blow dryer do the work. And I think it really shows off, you know, kind of this choppy graduation cuz the fear you got to get over is doing a graduation that looks lumpy. I want it choppy and piecy and have a lot of separation, but I don't want to look lumpy and poorly done. That's going to come from how we angle our fingers and how we consistently apply our scissor layer with our razor layer and then fine-tuning it at the end. And I think we look pretty good. I think this is a nice interesting way to get some texture and a little more fullness and have a little bit more pizzazz to it, so to speak. Anyway, check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Short choppy hairstyles are haircuts women gravitate to when it comes to short hair. While choppy short layers are popular with women over 50, they can be modernized for younger looks.   
Re-Imagining the Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut using a Razor

Tutorial

Re-Imagining the Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut using a Razor

The Vidal Sassoon 5 point haircut is one of the most iconic haircuts of the 60s and 70s. Alongside the Vidal styles he created for Grace Coddington and Nancy Kwan, the 5 point cut is often synonymous with the Mary Quant haircut. Professional hairdressing at the time was dominated by Sassoon cuts and Vidal made a statement in the fashion industry with his iconic cuts, salons and books. Today we can re-imagine Vidal Sassoon haircuts in a lighter, softer way. With the five point haircut, we can still maintain the geometric haircut shape but give it a modern look.  Watch this Sassoon 5 point haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut:     Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to do a challenge. It's a challenge for me to do this iconic Sassoon five-point haircut that was so... it really is what kickstarted Sassoon's career and really created the whole aesthetic of the late 60s and early 70s with this mod look. It's real solid with a beveled bang, two points on the side, three points in the back, but we're going to modernize it and do it with a razor. It's a challenging haircut, but we're going to show you how to soften it, give it a lot more versatility, and add a lot more texture to it if you want. So, let's get started.   Graduating the Back I'm going to start here with a horizontal section from the crown to the top of the ears. And then we're going to take a vertical section right down the middle. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so there is no protection on this. So, you needs to be extra careful. And it is extremely sharp, but it also gives me the most control over cutting a section of hair. And I'm going to go through and graduate this section in the back. Take a parallel section to that and continue to work all the way over to one side by walking my guide. So, I'm going to pull it out. I'm going to visualize what length of the top of the graduation is going to be, where it hits the ear. So, I'm kind of visualizing where that top of the parting section is, and I want to kind of see where that's going to hit the ear. And then I'm tapering it down, graduating it down shorter around the nape. As I cut the center section, that's my guide. And then I start to walk my sections all the way over to the left. So, I'll take the next section, add it to the previously cut section. So, I will remove the previously cut section, and then add to that. So, here I'm taking my next section, and I'm removing all the other hair. So, I only have the previously cut section and the section that I'm cutting. Holding that straight out in the center of both of those sections and cutting from long to short. Longer at the top, shorter in the nape. And I'm leaving a little bit of extra length there at the nape so that I can make sure I can get my points very defined. Working all the way over to the side. Now I'm getting in right behind the ear. And I'm just following the same guide that I started in the center back. Walking that all the way over to the ear. I can change the angle of graduation that I want. If I want it to stack up a little bit more, if I want it to be a little bit more even like this. It's all dependent upon the angle of graduation that I create. And here's the end result on the left side. We're going to take our center guide and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Once I finish that, I'll take my next horizontal section, which is going to be the center of the recession all the way right back to the crown. Take a vertical section in the center and then follow that same angle of graduation that I was doing underneath up and out. So I'm basically graduating and stacking the whole back so that I get a nice pleasing round head shape in the back. So by leaving this longer in the crown, it's actually going to bevel the shape and make it look much more pleasing in the crown. If I tend to change the angle here and go straight up, it tends to make the back of the head look flat. So here I'm doing exactly what I was doing underneath. Taking my previous guide as I'm walking that all the way around to the side and then blending that in with the hair that was cut underneath. Once I get to the quarter part here, I'll start to pivot my angle and the parting is changing. So no longer is it just straight up and down, but it's actually pivoting and leaving a little bit more length in the front. So each section I take is a diagonal pie section off of that hairline. I'm sorry, off of that parting right at the quarter part using the guide that I had created originally from the back. Working that longer as I get around the front. So I'm almost getting like a little bob shape around the front. Now, it's not going to be a bob shape in the end because I am going to cut it out over the ears, but this certainly gives me and saves enough length around the front so that I can work everything in nice and smooth. Then from here, after I got that shaped like I want, do the same thing on the other side.   Building Weight on Top Now, I'll take my next horizontal section and I'll take this all the way around the head. And from here, I'm no longer going to cut vertically. I'm going to hold each section horizontally out. So, by holding each section horizontally off the peak curvature of the head, I start to build up a little bit more weight on the top of the head. So, a vertical section is going to be less solid than if I take a horizontal section. So, I want it less solid underneath. So, I take vertical sections. More solid on the top. So, I reserve some length. I take horizontal sections. And then I'll just continue to work that from the center of the back all the way around into the sides and to the front. Now, this blade is very, very sharp as all the Feather blades are. But since this doesn't have a guard, I have to be a little extra mindful so that I don't end up cutting myself. But the benefit of this is that since it doesn't have a guard, it's very easy to get the exact cut line that I want. And that's the beauty of the Plier Razor is that it gives you the most control and the cleanest cut of any of the razors that I have. Now, I'm going to continue to work this section all the way up into the center of the head. So, I'm just going to keep following the same type of methodology that I was working before. That got a little bit long. So, we're going to take a little bit more off. And I'll continue to work this until I end up with all the hair on the top being cut into the side lengths.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, detailing this a little bit to make sure I get the line as clean as I want. I can just pinch a little piece of hair off and then lay the razor right on top of it. And that pinching gives me the tension and allows me to get a nice clean cut. So, I'll work this all the way up into the center of the head. The same thing I was doing before. That curvature of the head shows me where the parietal ridge is. That's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. So, I get a nice stack of graduation and just following the previously cut guide. Now, this haircut is going to require a tremendous amount of detailing, especially as I'm getting that beveling around the front, but I'll show you how to do that. So, you can see certain stages of this haircut where you think, okay, well, that looks pretty good just like that. So, you can stop there. You don't have to go through and bevel this. There's a lot of options and a lot of versatility with this type of haircut.   Beveling the Front So, I'll take a section around the front of the head from the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear. I'll hold everything straight down. Start cutting where I want my bevel line to be around the front. So, the bangs in the center, that's where I'm going to start and then clean that up. Now, you'll see here I'll lay the hair on my finger and then just use the blade to scrape anything off that doesn't quite fit and isn't as clean as I want. There we go. Just pinching that up and getting that nice and clean. There we go. I like that length there. Now, we're going to continue to work that into the sides into the point right there in front of the ear. So, I'll pick a guide from the center and then I'll angle my fingers to match the angle of my face framing and that beveling around the front. And then I will cut that line into it. And then I'll start with a nice even cut. Try to get it as clean as I can and then look at it and then fine-tune it as I need to. Like right here, there's something that doesn't match. So, I'm going to pull that forward. Cut a little bit of that off. Make sure that I take my time and fitting everything in because this haircut is going to show every fault and flaw that you have. And so, you have to take your time to get it to fit just right. And right there, that was good. That makes everything flow right from the center of the bangs into the corner right there where my point is in front of the ear. Now I'm combing everything forward like a little bowl cut. Take my section from underneath as my guide and then go through and cut the rest of the hair on top of it directly on top of my guide. I try to keep the razor stroke exactly the same throughout each section so that I can maintain the same amount of weight and the same amount of texture. I don't want to start with a real loose razor stroke underneath and then go with a real tight one on top. I want to keep everything even. And then if I need to go back in and take some weight out, then I can go through and purposely take weight out. I want to be very, very methodical. Even though I'm using a razor, which is a softer, more free type of cut, I still want to respect the methodology that I'm going through and cutting. And here I'll keep combing. Comb and comb and look and see where it doesn't fit. See where I need to clean it up. It needs to be cleaned up right there. So the same thing. Pull forward. See where it's not blending. And then fine-tune.   Fine-Tuning Now right here, I'm going to take my quarter part and right on top of the ear, I'm going to pull out a piece of hair, pinch that, and cut that real short. Right there. Not on top of the ear, shorter than the ear, but laying right on the top of it. Then I'll take a section at a diagonal going from the ear down into the nape. And here I'm going to switch it up. And since I was using my Feather Plier Razor, now I'm going to switch it up and use my Feather Styling Razor in the limited edition wood grain. So this way I can really get in there and fine-tune more without fear of having to cut myself because sometimes I need to fine-tune more than I need the cleanliness and the control of what the Plier provides me. So this way I can go through and get a really nice clean shape and I can continue to fine-tune without fear of cutting myself. And now I'll just start pinching over the ear and making sure everything blends like I want. And then pinching around the front, making sure that all blends. And I just keep fine-tuning it as I need to. This is a shape that just requires a lot of refinement to make sure it really falls in like you want it to. Now here I'm going to exaggerate my points in the back. These are the three major points in the back. So, I'm going to make sure that we can really arc that hairline out to get my kind of Batman kind of tail and then the wings on the side. I felt like the front was probably a little too thick and a little too solid. And since I wanted a modern version of this, I'm going to go through and razor a little bit, flat razor it to take some of that weight out. This is going to give me a nice lightness and softness and airiness to it so that when I blow it dry, I'll have a lot more versatility to it. And here there's something right there, right there at the corner of the eye that I just don't like. And I'm going to keep cleaning it up until I get it perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media, @jataifeather   Blowdrying, Styling and the End Result Once I get all my detailing finished like I want, I'm going to go through and start blowing dry. And then I'm going to use my Du-Boa styling brush to dry everything very, very neutral back and forth and back and forth until I can get everything nice and smooth and neutral and as much fullness as I want to so where I can whip the hair back and forth. After that, I'm going to put a little bit of texture paste on it just to enable me to get a little bit of separation and to make the shape really, really pop. Now, I think this looks pretty good. All right, here is our end result of our modern day five point. We got the key points here. We got three in the back. We got one on one side, a nice little bevel to point on the other side. And I think that the razor really adds a nice texture to this and makes it look really modern and fresh. You know, this is a very challenging haircut for a lot of people to do, especially me. But even to take it a step further and do it with a razor, I really think modernizes this really hardcore 70's Sassoon, 60's Sassoon kind of look. So something to add to your repertoire, something to practice. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. And also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. We'll see you next time. Thanks for watching.  
Halle Berry Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Tutorial

Halle Berry Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

When we think of a Halle Berry short haircut, the first thing that comes to mind is the pixie cut. The Halle Berry short straight hair pixie haircut is her iconic red carpet look that has captivated her beauty and fashion forward hairstyles. In this tutorial Russell Mayes, re-creates this celebrity Halle Berry haircut using a Feather Styling Razor for an easy, soft look. With bangs to compliment the face and a little styling he creates a splitting image of the Halle Berry pixie cut. Watch this  video and follow along with the transcript. Halle Berry Short Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. And today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to do a pixie inspired by Halle Berry. She has great pixies and they're all different kind of lengths from really short and really clean to a little longer, a little more medium. But the things that I think they have in common is they're all almost the same length all the way around. So, we're going to show you how to get a little bit of softness around the edges without it looking mullety. We're going to show you how to get the right texture to it so you can have some fullness and some length without it starting to feel bulky and kind of old-fashioned.   Sectioning So, to get started here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. So, separating the bottom of the head, I can work with just the short part. Then the top part's going to be a lot easier once I got all this fitted in. Because to make sure that this gets fitted in around the edges and still be feminine is something that's going to take a little bit of detailing. So, we're going to deal with that first. Deal with the hard parts first. I'm going to take the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part. Quarter part to the occipital bone. That's going to give me the whole right underneath side. Now, from here, I'm going to section off at an angle right at the front of the hairline, which is going to be parallel to this hairline right behind the ear and parallel to that hairline right at the front. I find that by going parallel to my partings, it has a nicer flow to it and it fits the head shape better if I work within the boundaries of the hairline.   Starting on the Sides Now, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor and the limited edition wood grain. This is my favorite. I think it looks cool. And I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut more hair at one time. But I do have to be a little more conscientious because it is exposing a little bit more blade. So, we're going to start right here in the front at my first angle. And I think that what really makes this kind of pixie pop and still is a little feminine. I've looked at a lot of pictures of Halle Berry's haircut and a lot of them will have a little bit of graduation here on the side. So, I'm going to start putting a little bit of graduation into it, but we have to be careful to not get too much weight stacking up so that it starts to look kind of frumpy. So, that determines I'm going to take a very broad stroke so that I can cut my shape and cut my length without building up a whole lot of weight. So, I'm going to take hold of this parallel and then my fingers will determine what angle of graduation that I'm going to start with. So, I'm going to start with something about there. And I'm going to take a very broad razor stroke all the way down and through. Now, at this point, I want to look at it and see how that's fitting in. I like the lengths of it, but I can tell already that it's going to start building up too much weight. So, as I start to go through, I may start doing some channel cutting to remove some of that weight. Our next section, which is parallel to that first section, comb this into the first section. Hold out from the head. Find the angle that I was working on before. There it is underneath. I can see that. Try to take a nice broad razor stroke like I was doing before. Cut that all the way down and through. And then check and see. And I think we've got a little too much length here on the top. So before I start going all the way through, I'm going to take some of that length off the top. And I think that that's looking better already. That's looking better. Now I'm gonna go through and put a little bit of delicate channeling through here to remove some of that weight and see how it's looking. There we go. I like that. Now we're going to take our next section which is going to be parallel. And I'm running that all the way down in through the nape. So I've got my first, second, now my third section. I'll remove the first section. Now I will have the second and third section. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A nice broad stroke as we go down and through. That's looking pretty good. Now, right here, as I get to the middle of the ear, I can either choose to have more length down here on the bottom and make it kind of a waif-ish pixie, or I can fit this in really tight. Hold this parallel, same stroke, and cut this parallel to my parting. So, that's my parting. That's the line I'm cutting. Now, we're going to take our next section, which is going to be parallel to the same. And I'm going to keep working this same methodology until I get to the center back of the head. Now, we're going to take the last section right here, holding it out from the head with the previously cut section as my guide. Cut that down and through. And I like that. I'm going to take a little bit of channeling through here just to remove some weight and create a little separation. So now I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side.   Back Half of the Head All right. So I've gone through and separated the front half from the back half of the head. It's very important that I make this back half fit in and follow a head shape. If it starts to get too short, I'll make the head look flat in the back. And then that looks really ridiculous. And nobody wants to have a flat head. Take my center section. Now, when I hold this out from the head, I can see the angle of graduation that I already have here underneath. And I want to continue that up and bevel it out. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A little bit longer as I start to go up. Once I go past one flat section, I will go to the next flat section. Hold that 90 degrees. There's my length. Continue that up. When I get to the top, all the way and through. Now, from here, I'm going to pivot from the center piece that I had up there and make a little pie section as I work around to the side. Hold these two together. There's my guide from underneath and follow the same shape that I was working on underneath as I work back up following my guideline.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Pivoting again. Remove the center guideline that I had. So now I only have section two and section three. Fold this up and out. There's my guide from underneath. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Follow that all the way up to the very top. Then I'm just going to continue working this until I reach my quarter part. There's my guide from underneath and my previously cut guide.   The Top of the Head Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So, I'll take a horizontal section to my very first parting that I had, which separated the top from the bottom. I'm going to hold this out, determine the length from underneath, and then go through, lift this straight up and out. There's my guide from underneath, and continue the same broad stroke, holding this horizontally straight out from the head towards me. Not lowering my elevation to build up any weight but continuing this straight up. My next section's going to be parallel. Take my section underneath. Hold this straight out towards me. There's my guide underneath. And then go through and cut everything to blend. I could leave this longer if I was going for more of a Tinkerbell type of pixie or where she had more length on the top. You can take this parallel and make it all short on the top like some of a lot of her pictures were. We're going to make everything nice and short, but you could certainly go through and leave this a lot longer and disconnect it. A nice broad soft razor stroke as I'm working through there. And I'll go all the way till I reach the center of the head and hold everything straight out. Elevation coming towards me. Making sure that I'm not lowering my elevation. And keep everything nice and broad and soft. And so what that does is that also gives me a nice curved shape on the side of the head as well as the back of the head. All right, so we've got the underneath cut.   Removing Excess Length on the Top So now let's go through and take a center section and start dealing with our excess length on the top. I got my center section. And I'm going to hold that straight up in the air. There's my length from underneath. I'm going to turn the razor over and go through without moving my left hand. Just razor the top of that off. Keep a nice broad stroke and gradually increase the length as I go towards the front. There's my next piece. Let's get some of that hair out of the way. There's my guide. Now, at this point, the head is starting to curve, but I'm not curving with it. I'm continuing to go straight with it. That will leave me a little bit of extra length in the front that I can go through and fit that in later to make sure that the bang length is exactly the length that I want. I don't have to get it right right now. Now I'm going to take a parallel section walking to the left side. I'm going to comb the center section and this left section together. There's my guide from underneath. Let's go through. Cut that length. Working from back to front. Take my next parallel section. Comb that straight up. There's my guide from underneath. And as I start to get to the left side, you'll notice I'm running out of hair because I've already cut everything to blend in with the side. So, all I have to do is make sure I get the length on top, the length I want. And there's nothing else to blend through there. Perfect. So, now I'll go back to the center, find my original guide, which is right there, and then I'm going to add my next section, and do the same thing on the other side.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Bangs Now, let's go through and fit in our bang section. And I'm just going to take a horizontal section straight across from recession to recession. Take a little piece right here in the middle. A nice broad long stroke through there. I think a little more. A little more. We're going to make sure we get some good separation through there. And all I'm doing is looking at that center piece to see where that fits. And I think that that's going to be okay. Now, we're going to take our next piece next to it. I'm not picking up a guide. I'm just visually going to cut to try to fit this in in its area where it lives. So, I'm not using a guide other than just visually looking and seeing what looks right and pray a little bit and make sure I don't cut everything off completely. We're going to comb everything down. There's a little piece right there. Fit that in. Perfect. Right here. No guide. Just purely visually fitting this in around the front. Now we're going to take the next piece, comb this down. Anything that hangs over and looks too thick, I'm going to go through and fine-tune. Take a little bit of the weight out through there. A little bit here. I'm surface cutting right on the top. So, I cut the top layer shorter, not the underneath that I've already cut, just to see if anything hangs over. If something starts to get too thick like that, then I'll go through and start fine-tuning that as well to make sure I get my separation like I got underneath. I think the razor really lends itself to creating the perfect shape for this type of haircut because while it still gives it a strong shape, there's enough softness and separation and looseness to it that it can really look lived in and still remain very glamorous. So, let's blow it dry and see what we got.   Halle Berry Short Haircut Final Result Here's our end result. And I think that we got a really nice shape, especially around the crown, so you can get it short and full, but still have a nice pleasing head shape to it. I also think that we have a nice kind of soft perimeter shape around the edge. And on these mannequin heads and somebody with really thick pokey hair, this is kind of hard to achieve. So, you want to make sure that you compensate for however much inverted graduation that you put back here so that you leave a little bit of softness around the edges. We've got a nice little bit of graduation to it without it looking too bulky or too bowl-ly. And I think that looks pretty good. The bangs, you know, you can do so many different things with them. You kind of sweep them over, get them up out of the way. You know, you can have them kind of come down. whatever is your preference and whatever the style of Halle Berry pixie that you're going for. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Halle Berry hairstyles have mostly erred on shorter side. Her haircuts are classy and sophisticated. Sometimes it's straight and sometimes it's wavy. But Halle Berry short haircuts have remained her staple look and they look great on her! We hope you learned how to use a razor for this Halle Berry cut. Check out our other tutorials for other short haircuts.   
Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

Tutorial

Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

In this short bob undercut style, Russell takes a look at a modified bob haircut that utilizes an undercut to remove weight and prevent a mushroom shape. This is not a shaved undercut bob but rather a subtle, soft undercut that leaves a classic hairstyle look. The undercut bob haircut works great on thick hair to reduce volume. Bob haircuts will always be in popular style. Watch this short bob undercut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Bob Undercut:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Do you have problems with short bobs getting real bulky and looking too mushroomy? Well, we're going to show you how to fix that today. Very easy with some undercutting and some texturizing and a little bit of razor work. And you'll be amazed at the results that you can get. So, let's get started. To preface this whole thing here, when you're doing a short bob, it can get very, very thick very, very quick. We're going to go through and we're going to undercut the shape, but we're going to undercut it in a specific way where we're not necessarily skinning it and making it very, very edgy. We're just going to take all the weight out from underneath and it's still going to bevel through and blend in the back. So, I think that that's very important for this sort of shape even though we're going to disconnect it and we're still going to maintain a nice clean bob line. All right, so first let's get with sectioning. Here we go. All right, so the first thing I want to do is go through and separate the top from the bottom. So, I can take it as high as the center of the recession or I can take it anywhere lower from there. So, I'm going to go a little lower than that. So, I still maintain a real strong bob shape, but I start to take this hair out. That's just going to make it bulky. So, we're going to go to the quarter part. From the quarter part down to the occipital bone. Then I'm going to take it right across straight across the back.   Creating the Bob with Undercut to Remove Bulk So after I feel like I've got this balanced like I want and I have enough that I feel I can remove enough bulk to keep my bob from being too bulbous, I'm going to go through and take my Jatai Osaka Scissor. Now this is a 6-in scissor that has a nice strong solid blade, so I can take and cut a large section of hair easily. and it's nice and sharp. So, I'll go through the entire section without any kind of resistance. So, from there, I'm going to take hold this section. Take each section. I'm going to comb everything straight up. And I'm going to lay my finger right at the parting. Pull this straight up. Cut that straight across. So, what that's going to do is that's going to cut the top of the section a lot shorter than the underneath so that when it falls, it's going to fall and collapse that shape really close to the head and remove a lot of that bulk. Start here on the sides. Comb that section straight up to the parting. Cut that straight across. And just do that all the way from the front into the nape. I don't have to be real precise about this. I'm just going through cutting the length off. Oops. And since I'm holding it so high up at such extreme elevation, it's going to take all the weight out of this section and leave me just enough hair around the edges that I can start to fit in. So after I've got that finished, I'm going to go through and start fine-tuning this in all around the edges. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in white, no guard. And I'm gonna go through and just visually take a little piece of hair, a little vertical section, go through real gently, lay this flat across my section, and start to fit that in closely against the head. I can go through and start really fine-tuning this shape and take some of that length out and make it fit in a little bit nicer around the edges. And I'm just going through this is called filleting. So I'm just going to fillet this section off to get some of that really long hair out of the way. Going through here real gently taking some of that out. My whole idea is just to remove the weight and remove the excess length that I don't need underneath. That tends to make everything really blocky. Very easy to go through and cut all this length off and take that weight out and still have a nice soft underneath shape. Now, before I move on to the top, if I feel like this underneath with this length that I've cut is too much, if it if it still feels like it's going to be too thick and make my bob kind of pop out and get kind of lumpy, then I can go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai and remove some more weight. And the way I would do that is just take the comb, scissor over comb, and I would do it really deep and just walk that all the way up because really all I have to thin is the middle of that section. I don't have to thin the whole thing even though I'm going to. And this will take this will take any of the remaining weight that I have that I don't want out of it. I feel like the Tokyo Thinning Scissor takes the right amount of weight that I can go through and do this very very deep without fear that it's going to come back and bite me because it took too much hair out in one shot. I can hit it multiple times to take more hair out, but I don't have to. We've got all this underneath hair taken care of, and now we can go ahead and start working on our bob.   Creating the Bob All right. So, I've got my natural part, which is a little off center, and I'm going straight back down and halving the head, and then one flat section above where the occipital bone is diagonally towards the ear. And this is going to be the start of my little bob. So, I'm just going to take a center section. And here, I'm going to look at the side of her head and see where that's going to go. So, I'm going to go fairly short here and just cut that straight across. Check my line. See if my length there will be short enough and how it's going to build up there. And I think that's going to be fine. So now I'll start using that as my guide, angling it towards the chin and just start at the innermost part and cut towards the face. Do the same thing on the other side. See where that's going to go towards the jaw. Since I don't have a line underneath, I only have this line here and my length there. Start cutting from the center going towards the face. Check my lengths. See if they're building up similarly. And they're looking pretty good. That's pretty nice. And I'm liking the way that this hair in the back is really kind of stacking in and fitting in underneath the weight of the bob that I'm starting to build up. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section right there. Here's my next section. I'm going to hold it out at elevation. There's my guide from underneath. And then we're going to lay that flat horizontally right across that. Cut my one length and start to build up some weight. Here this comes. I'm starting to build up towards the front using my guide from underneath and the guide in the center and building up the shape that I want to flow towards the shape up towards the face. Parallel sections as I start to work towards the front. Starting in the middle, seeing my guide length from underneath. Combing clean from the roots all the way down. There's my guide length. Get that out of there.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I'm just going to continue with this until I get to the last section. Now, we're working here into our last section on each side. And we can comb that down. And we can start to see a nice little bob shape developing up. And the whole idea behind this this haircut is to give me a bob shape without it having that really mushroomy type of bob because if she has thick hair and you're doing something short, you have to undercut it and you have to start relieving some of that weight from building up and looking very mushroomy. So, by going through and undercutting it and then going through and cutting my bob shape with the razor, that certainly helps alleviate some of that bulk and some of that that mass that starts to develop. Even though I'm holding this down and still cutting it exactly like I would cut a one- length bob, but I'm loosening up from the technique and allowing it to develop visually as opposed to going through and trying to build it very structurally and very geometrically. Now, we're going to go through and blow dry, and I'm going to see what we have. And I'm gonna see how we need to taper this in and fine-tune this in the nape to make sure everything pops just right.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now to go through and remove some of this kind of 70s bevel that we have to it, I'm going to take a vertical section, hold that straight out from the head. Take my thinning scissor and go through and vertically thin some of this hair out so it helps the shape collapse a little bit more. We're going to check that. That looks better. And then let's continue that on as I work around and get to the mastoid bone. Nice short little bob undercut to relieve some of that heavy heavy mushroomy weight that we usually get. And I like that right there. That's looking pretty good. Not bad.   Short Bob Undercut Final Look   Here's our end result. We got a nice little blend back in here, even though we did completely disconnect it and undercut it. And we got a nice little bevel to our bob, even though it still maintains a real solid shape right at the jawline. So, this is a very good technique to add to your repertoire in case you have someone with very, very thick, stiff hair that you can get some of that weight out. Now, you don't have to do as much as I did or you can do more. It's very versatile shape and it works on all different types of textures. Maybe if the hair is real fine, maybe I wouldn't do it because you want to build up as much weight as you can to get a real solid bob shape. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Tutorial

Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Learn how to create a Linda Evangelista short haircut that she made famous in the 1990's. One of the most well-known models at the time among Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, she had a vibrant career and earned celebrity status for her modeling. One of the most important contributions she made in the fashion world is her iconic short haircut. Photographer Peter Lindbergh suggested she get a short haircut and in 1988 she chopped it off in a bold move that shocked the industry. Hairstylist Julien d'Ys created the iconic pixie that soon gained popularity shortly after. Her style was broadcasted all over the news and media outlets, including popular print magazines such as Vogue. Linda Evangelista has sported many long and short hairstyles over the years, but the short crop pixie made the biggest impact in the hair world in the late 80s and early 90s. Today short haircuts are popular among women, but Linda's has maintained a timeless essence which exudes beauty in any era. Watch this tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes Director of Content and today we're going to be doing a study of the Linda Evangelista pixie cut, one of the most iconic haircuts of any fashion era. And we're going to study what makes it great, what makes it work, how to remove enough weight to where it fits in nice and tight but still have some length and that was really her signature. It was short but she still had length. She's had thickness and it was solid, but it wasn't too bulky. It still had softness and movement. So let's see how we can do that. Let's get started.   Sectioning I want to take my first section which is going to separate the top of the hair from the bottom. The bottom we're going to fit in real nice and tight. The top we're going to leave a little longer. We're going to take the center of the recession to the quarter part, quarter part down and then we're going to bevel that out as opposed to just going to a point. I want to bevel this out just to make it flow a little bit better in the back of the head. I'll take an angled section right here at the front. I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is the wood-look option which is my favorite right now. It's a limited edition so get it while you can. I'm going to take this first section. I'm going to pull perpendicular to my parting. So T to the parting. Now most of Linda Evangelista's pixies were longer in the front about the center of her nose that she would kind of texturize and swift one way or the other.   Cutting the Sides So I'm going to pull this forward. I'm going to plant my knuckles and then angle my fingers to get that length right at about the center of her nose and then we're going to go through and cut that back towards the ear. I'll take my next section. This is going to be a parallel section to my first that I just cut. We're going to comb this out of the way. I'm going to take this section. I'm going to pull it forward the same but where this is going to differ is that I'm not pulling it straight forward flat to the head. I'm going to slightly elevate it. So I'm going off the curvature of the head as I work this back. An easy way to determine that is I just lay the comb right at the parting and it will show me what elevation I take as I go towards the back. That's going to give me a curved line going from the front to the back. Again pull this out, find my line. There's my guide. Try to take the same broad razor stroke that I was taking before. Cut that down and through. The next section parallel all the way down into the nape. Now the number of sections that you're going to take is going to be determined by how big the person's head is. The bigger the head, the more sections you're going to take. The smaller the head, the fewer sections you'll take. Pick up my previously cut guide. Pull out the first. Find the right elevation. Find the right angle. Cut that back towards the ear. Once I get to the ear I'm no longer going to work that all the way in. I'm going to start taking this section parallel to the head, parallel to my parting. So the parting up here was at an angle. Once it hits the ear, now it becomes parallel to the section. Continue my next section. Pull this forward. There's my angle. I got the right elevation. Lift that up and through once I come into the nape parallel to my parting. So I start to build up weight here on top of the ear and then it starts to become much more even in its weight distribution as I get down to the nape. And I will continue this until I get all the way just past center. Next section, since I don't have any hair above where the ear is this is all going to be parallel, parallel to the parting and also following my previously cut guide. There's my length. Nice. Very nice. It's taking me back. I've got George Michael playing in my head. Now we're going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. To make sure that I keep my moisture content the same on both sides. I'm going to be using Jatai Blade Glide. This is going to give me the ability to keep my moisture consistent on both sides. It compacts the cuticle and makes it a lot easier to cut with the razor. I'm just going to go through and take a parallel section to my previous guide which is going to be like that. So now from here I know that I'm going about to the bridge of the nose so I'll pull this out. I'll rock it to where I have about that elevation into it. There's my guide from underneath. Go through. Take that length off. Same thing as I work from the front to the back. Get my elevation right, a nice broad razor stroke following my guide from underneath as I work all the way into the back of the head. Now I'm going to take a parallel section about the same thickness from front all the way to the back. If I need to add a little moisture I'll hit it with a little Blade Glide. Perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   There's my guide. Nice broad razor stroke so I don't build up weight but I do build up length. There's the next nice broad stroke. If I need to have them tilt their head down there's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Next section and I'm going to continue with this method until I get slightly over the center top of the head. Find the right elevation. There's my guide from underneath until I work all the way into the nape. That looks pretty good. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. Uh I think we've got a little too much length in the front so I'm going to take a little bit off right in the middle so that'll be easy. Just take a parallel section there. Yeah we got the sides fine. It's just right in the middle I'm not a fan of so we're going to go through, take that and bevel that shape from the sides into and around the front. There we go.   Cutting the Top Now to control this kind of point on top it's very easy. It's going to be very simple. I'm going to take a center mohawk section. So I've got my center section here on top. What I want to do is go through and remove this corner that I have on top by pulling it left and right, front and back. The way I'm going to do that is I'm going to hold this and cut just like this. I'm going to flick some of this length off by using my thumb against the back of the spine of the razor. I'm not laying it on the actual blade. I'm laying it on the back of the razor putting the hair and then pulling the blade out that will take any kind of length that hangs off over where I push that end of the blade off. Very little, if anything, right through here. Yeah, very little. If I feel like the hair is too thick, then the way I'm going to remove some weight is not by channel cutting because I don't want to introduce any separation and any sort of movement. I want to keep this a very neutral shape. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to pull out a section very easy and then just lay the blade directly flat across the entire section and fillet some of that weight out of it just like I'm filleting a fish, filleting some sushi. Take a little bit of that weight out and that will remove the weight without changing the shape or putting channel separation into it. We're going to continue this on the top all over and just take a little bit of that weight out just gently lay the blade against the hair and then start to rock the blade until it starts to cut. Once it starts cutting, I'll leave it at that angle. Boom very quick, very easy, very very light. I don't want to get heavy with this razor especially on blonde hair because it will flat cut it off quick because blonde hair tends to be a little delicate, so I need to respect that.   Give us a thumbs up, click the notification bell and subscribe for future Jatai Academy content.   I like this. I think we got the basic shape into it so now let's go through and blow it dry and see what our end results are.   Final Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Look So here's our end result of the Linda Evangelista haircut and I think we got the texture right which I think is the hardest thing when you're working on mannequin hair or hair that's been bleached like our inspiration picture where you got to get it soft enough thinned out enough without getting wispy and I think by laying our razor flat against the section, that really generates that type of texture and that type of shape. We got a solid shape. We got a little bit of fullness all the way around. Very very iconic of when she was doing the George Michael video with when she had her short pixie kind of hair. I like it a lot. I think that this works really really well. So couple of things to remember: pull your sections forward, angle your fingers so you leave more weight right here around the front and then you're tapering it into the back. Also, gently fillet with the razor across each section to remove as much weight as required. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. If you have a question, leave it below. We'll try to get back to you as soon as possible and again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Modern Chic Lily Collins Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Modern Chic Lily Collins Hair Tutorial

In this tutorial we explore Lily Collins hair when it was short, similar to how hairstylist Gregory Russell Cut her hair for the Calvin Klein campaign. While we are more familiar with the Emily in Paris stars' long hair with curtain bangs, her short blunt bob is a testament to her more mature and sophisticated side. We demonstrate Lily Collins' beauty and style with this red carpet timeless haircut. Follow along with the video tutorial and transcript below.   Lily Collins Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a one-length bob. But we're not going to do an old-fashioned grandma one length bob. We're going to do something young and cool. We're going to use celebrity Lily Collins as our inspiration. She has this cool one length bob that still maintains the essence of the shape but because it's done with the razor it keeps it modern and fresh and softer and a little bit easier to live with. So let's get started. Alright. So we're going to start by taking a center part or a natural part. Hers is slightly off center, but it's pretty much very very close down the middle. We're going to go to the occipital bone to the mastoid and then I'm going to split that flat section in half so that I have enough hair that I can start to develop my shape but not so much that it starts to clog up my razor.   The Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor I'm going to use my Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor. Now this is in celebration of Jatai's 75th Anniversary and there's only a limited number of these being made. While the handle is not wood, every handle is going to be individual because the wood grains are going to be different, the color variations are going to change from handle to handle. And so once they're gone they're gone. They're not going to make it again and you can buy this individually with just one blade or you can buy it in a kit with a pack of blades and the other accessories that go along with it. And also don't use alcohol-based disinfectants because it can affect the wood look finish.   Creating a Solid Blunt Shape Now we're going to go through and start with our razor bob and the thing that I want to pay attention to that makes this bob modern that Lily's wearing is that the texture is just in the tips. There's not a whole lot of texture that's going to modify the shape and make it piecey. So we want to keep this as solid as possible. So I'm going to hold everything, comb clean straight down. I'm going to find where I want my length at and then I'll put the razor in and I will very gently move this up and down just about a sixteenth of an inch so I can still keep that a very solid blunt shape. We're going to take our next section. Whatever my line is that I parted is going to be the line that I cut in it because I want this to be a little longer in the front. Cutting that down and through. Following my parting on the opposite side, there's my line. We're going to go through. Gently cut that off. Now you want a sharp blade. If you don't have a sharp blade you're going to start trying to saw the hair off. And the more that you're trying to saw the hair off, the more texture that you're going to put in it. Remember I want to keep as little texture in this razor bob as possible and that's what keeps it looking really modern and very very chic. There's my line underneath. I'll lay the razor right on top of it and just about a 16th of an inch razor stroke and cut that straight across. That way I concentrate the texturizing just in the very tips. If I'm working on a model that has very very thick hair and I still want to go through and do this shape, I may run into a situation where I start to build up too much weight and then it starts to look broom-like. So if that happens, then what I'll do is every other section I'll take a broader stroke to remove more weight. But then on every other section I will go through and cut very very blunt like this as much and as blunt as possible to make sure I have that solid line. Now I'll go through. Check this out. We're shorter in the middle, a little bit longer towards the front. So once we got our baseline in, we're going to continue on following the same pattern. Now as my first section was the occipital mastoid, now I'm going to go two flat sections where the head is flat, where the head is flat, right to the top of the ear and that should give me exactly the same angle (the same line) that I was doing underneath. So this line should match that line and then I will take this and split it in half and there's my next section. Pin that out of the way.   Moving Up the Head Now as I start to move up the head, if I feel that the hair is starting to lack a little moisture, I'm going to use my Jatai Blade Glide just to give me a consistency with the dampness. Also, it's going to constrict the cuticle and make my razor cut easier and cleaner. We're going to move on to the next section. I want to maintain zero elevation with my fingers being the only graduation that I get. The only elevation is from this middle finger, but everything else wants to be as flat to the head as possible and I want to keep my razor at a 45 ° angle. I'm not laying it perpendicular to the hair. I want to keep a 45 ° angle as I'm cutting. So I'll put the blade in, angle it at 45 right through there on top of my previously cut guide and cut that down and through. Keep everything T to my parting. There's my line. Cut that through. Check and see how the length is. I think that length is going to be just fine. Continue that through. Now by me laying the blade flat against the hair and cutting everything one length I'm not introducing any kind of movement to this cut or this shape at all. Everything is going to be solid and blunt. I'm trying to apply as much precision to this as I possibly can even though I'm using a soft cut tool where it's not giving me a precision cut like a scissor would. I still want to use the technique and the methodology to make this as precise as possible. So when I'm combing I'm working on flat sections of head. I'm combing from the root clean all the way down and through creating just enough tension to hold the section tight but not so much that I'm stretching it. Laying the razor against that parting right there, cutting that straight across. There's my line. Cut that down and through. Next section, keep everything combed as clean from the parting all the way through to my fingers as possible cutting that straight across. I think with it being a little longer in the front, we have shunned that shape for so long that now when we see it being a little longer in the front it looks fresh again. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now when I come over the ear, since I have to maintain tension on the hair, I'm just going to comb everything into my hand using the comb as the maximum amount of tension that I'll use. I'll plant my fingers. There's my guide from the back and then continue that down and through. I can't go through and do any sort of little tricks as far as making sure I don't cut a hole in it over the ear other than using the least amount of tension as possible. And we have a nice little line that's building up a little length there in the front. And we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Taking my time and making sure everything is combed as clean as possible all the way down. Cut that through. There's my line. Cut that through. Perfect. Looking good. Alright. Let's check our lengths out. I think we're looking pretty good through there. So we've got our basic shape in. Now remember, if the hair was overly thick I could razor in between sections to remove that kind of broom effect that I may get. Let's blow it dry, take a look and see what we got.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The End Result of this Lily Collins Hair Tutorial So here's our end result and I think we're looking pretty good. I mean this is more of a less uptight kind of bob you know and that's what makes it modern is that we still have this solid bob shape, but it's got that little pieciness on the ends that make it look like it's grown out a little bit and keeps it from looking really stuffy and too perfect. And I think that because it has that kind of softness and that kind of tattered edge to it it gives it something really interesting to look at and it catches your eye more than just a real blunt cut bob. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and once again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Lily Collins hair bob is classic and sophisticated. The timeless look defies hair trends and is perfect for any lifestyle. No matter the season, the one length bob will never lose popularity. Tutorial
Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial

Tutorial

Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial

In this soft undercut tutorial short hair look we use three tools to create the final style: clippers, a Feather Plier Razor and Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC. All three tools have their important purposes and contribute to the final look in different ways. Follow along with the video tutorial and the transcript below.   Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial:   Welcome to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on an undercut, but we're going to do a short undercut, a pixie undercut. Keep it from being so full on thick hair, still make sure it's got some movement some style and some grace. So check it out. Let's get started. Diving right in because I forgot to hit record on the underneath part but luckily it's an easy part to explain.   The Undercut So I took from the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part down to the nape area and I rounded that out a little bit on both sides so I don't end up with a fat little point in the middle. From there I took my clipper with a number five attachment, hit on and just cut everything underneath off and very short. It's all the same length. Everything off underneath here, just buzz it short to get it out of the way. So after we've cut everything underneath short and clean, I'll take the guard attachment off. I'll take my comb and now I'm just going to go through and around the edges of the hairline fit that in. So I'll put the comb in angle it out a little bit so it's really short around the edges of the hairline and I work that up and out and blend. I'm not going to recut everything up to here. I'm just fitting it in a little closer near the hairline. So this is just tapering that in just a little bit closer. You can certainly go through and use smaller guards to fit that in a little cleaner as well but we're just going to show you options. So after I've got that fitted in we're going to come here into the nape and do the same sort of motion where I'm just tapering that in just right around the hairline. And I think when you go through and you do a little bit of tapering, even though it's not necessarily a massive amount, I think it does add a little more elegance to the haircut overall as opposed to it just being all the same length underneath. So it differentiates me from other people or for someone doing it at home. So it also adds a little style, a little bit of elegance, a little bit of fine tuning and sometimes it's just that extra 10% that really makes a haircut pop and look truly professional. The Pixie Portion So when I go and cut the top I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. Now the Feather Plier Razor is a guardless razor. It doesn't have a guard. It has a super sharp blade so be a little careful, but it gives me the most control over how much hair I remove, where I remove it from and how precise the shape is that I apply to it. So this is my weapon of choice for cutting the top. Alright so now we've sectioned off the top. I've sectioned from where the quarter part would be right at the crown. I've sectioned out the front from the back of the head. We're going to start right in the middle and I'm going to take me a little pie section and make sure it's not too thick. And I'm going to hold this out at an angle. I want this top part of the section to be held at that elevation so I can graduate it. Make sure everything comes out. I know I'm going short here so I'm going to take my Feather Plier Razor and start with a very very broad stroke and cut that up and out. And I think that that length once it bounces up is probably going to be pretty good. Now once I put a little bit more texture into this internally it will make it feel a little shorter as well. So before texture I leave it a little longer. After texture it will make it feel a little shorter. Close my razor. Take the next part. I'm going to pivot out of the center and add the next section in. Again, not too thick. If the sections get too thick then the razor has to push through it and I end up with a line that's not very clean or consistent. Open my guard again, there's my guide underneath, take that up and out. And I'm taking a pretty broad stroke to make sure I maintain that soft kind of texture to it. If I need to put layering in it then we'll do that a little bit later. And I'm just going to continue this pivoting right here in the crown and walking my guide around the head. And I think we're looking pretty good so far. Check that out, see how that's looking. I think that's looking pretty good. Now going through and taking a vertical section will force it to separate into vertical pieces. If I was to go through and take this horizontally then it would build up a much more solid line. So after I've done this side I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Okay now we're coming to the last section on the opposite side and I'm still continuing to cut up from the bottom to the top. Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Make sure we got everything dialed in there lengthwise around the perimeter. Now let's check the other side. So we're going to start here with the center part on top. We're going to separate it left and half sides. Then I'm going to go through and take a vertical section off of the center part using the guide in the back and I'm going to hold this vertically and continue my angle of graduation that I had from underneath, still taking a nice broad razor stroke working from the back into the front. If I want the front to get longer, then once I hit the ear I'll start to pull everything back to that. If I want to maintain everything kind of being equal, I can certainly continue to walk my guide. Next section, holding it out vertically, there's my guide that's falling out, taking vertical sections continuing that through. Now I've noticed that the razor starts to catch in the hair a little bit and I'm drying out so I'm going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to help smooth the hair out and make it easier for my razor to cut. Continuing my vertical sections, not taking sections that are too thick. There's my guide falling out. That's much better. Slides much better through the hair. Comb that down. I want that hitting right about the middle of the ear which is going to be right at the nose. Doesn't have to be perfect you know. I just want to make sure I get in the general vicinity of the proper length that I'm going for. Next section, pull to the ear so I leave a little bit of extra length in the front that I may cut off but at least I'll leave it there just in case I want to do something with that. Yeah I think a little more length is going to work out well. Take the last section, bring that back to the ear as well. Not much is going to reach from her previous layers that she had around the front. Now we've got that. There we go. Now we can start to see some separation popping in because we've been taking vertical sections. After I've cut both sides it's going to leave me a little bit of a point in the front. Now I don't want this much of a point because I think it's going to become too exaggerated so I'm going to round this out a little bit more and take a little bit of the weight out. So I'll take the entire thing, pull that forward and go through and do a deep channel cut as I'm cutting the length right here at the very front at the same time. It's going to not only remove the thickness and the weight of it, but it's also going to cut some of that length off. I'll go through and do my initial pass. I'll go through and do what I think needs to be done and then I'll go back and look at it and see if I need to take any more out or take any more length off. This haircut has a lot of visual elements to it and I have to determine that those visual elements if they fit as I go. I can't just hit it once and move on. I have to fine-tune the shape with each pass and with each cut according to her hair texture, their thickness, their growth pattern, their waves and what my end result what I think looks good to my eye. I think that's looking pretty good. So let's blow it dry take a look and see what we got. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Reducing Fluff Alright. So we finished blowing dry and I think the basic shape looks pretty good. It's very pixie like. It's nice and short underneath so it keeps it from really bulking out, but I think it needs a little bit more pop to it. I think it's still a little bit too fluffy. So what I'm going to go through and do is I'm going to take my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest blade I got and I'm going to go through and do some really deep channel cutting and be very very aggressive with this to get this hair to separate more in pieces so it becomes less product dependent and I can still get that aggressive separation. So I'm not going to take any sections. I'm just going to comb the hair straight down put the blade in about halfway and just go through and chew some big separations between this. So not only will this remove a little bit of weight, but it's also going to give me a much more aggressive separation and I think make it look a little bit edgier and have a little bit more pop to it. There we go. I'm liking that better. Be careful. Don't go through and get too aggressive in areas that you don't want. Just pay attention. Gently apply. You can always add more but you can't take it out once you put it in. So be mindful of that and I think that right through there a little bit. Right through there. I like that better. Final Look of this Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a lot of texture to it and for as thick as this mannequin head is for it to not be so bulbous and full and still have some separation and movement to it, it is quite showing of the technique of undercutting it and then having enough hair to lay over it and putting a lot of texture to it. So let us know what you think. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Military Haircut for Women Using Scissor Over Comb Deep Dive Tutorial

Tutorial

Military Haircut for Women Using Scissor Over Comb Deep Dive Tutorial

When it comes to a military haircut for women there are certain criteria that must be met. Hair should be well groomed with a neat appearance. While hairstyles for military women have more versatility, their hair must be secured above the collar and not interfere with headgear. This means female military hair is often worn as a ponytail or bun. Hair can be short or long as well. But in this tutorial we will look at the iconic G.I. Jane buzz cut without using clippers. This is a bold look that can be done in a way that's not the same length all the way around. Watch the video tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Watch this Military Haircut for Women Scissor Over Comb Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of content for Jatai. Today we're going to be doing a G.I. Jane inspired buzz cut, like a military kind of haircut, and we're going to use this as an opportunity to take it into a technical deep dive of scissor over comb. It'll give us an opportunity to practice. We're going to cover all the key points, how to move the scissor, how to move the comb, what kind of scissor you want, how to apply it and when to take a break. So let's get started.   The Military Haircut for Women Tools So the first thing I want to start with is my scissor. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor. Longer scissors work better for doing scissor over comb. Sometimes a fatter blade works well when you're trying to just motor hair off, but I find a good basic normal scissor that's not too thick or not too thin but long enough gives me all the options that I need for being able to do scissor over comb well. The next thing I need to pay attention to is how you hold your comb. Holding your comb properly will enable you to do better scissor over comb more smoother and apply the technique much faster. So I'm going to start by taking the butt of the comb putting it right in the crotch of my pinky. I'm going to put my thumb and forefinger on the spine and the teeth side of the comb. Now this way I can rotate my comb back and forth and it allows me to get into a rhythm as I start to go up and down. And as you start going over this you're going to go over this a lot of times. So this enables me to have a nice smooth scissor flow and enables me to focus on what's being cut, not on the comb itself. Scissor Over Comb So the first thing we want to do is go through and I'm going to lay the comb against the head, pull it out a little bit and just cut this across. I'm doing a very crude cut. I'll move up maybe a half inch maybe a quarter inch as I go up the head straight this way until I run out of hair. Now you're going to see little lines in it and that's okay. I'm not worried about it being perfectly flawless at this point. I want to go through and get that extra length off so I don't have to waste my time going through and cutting all of my length off. And I'll just attack this horizontally across the back and just go up and out. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather Now at this point I want to go through and start really cutting it short. At the bottom I'm going to cut it the width of the comb. As I go up, the comb is slow going to start to come off of the head just slightly as I go up and round it to the crown. Comb down. Start low. Put my comb in. Follow the head. Put my scissor in same width as the comb. So whatever the comb width is that's going to be the length that I leave. Once I get about right here that comb starts to leave the head as I come up and out. Now I start to get a nice smooth transition as I'm going from against the head to away from the head. I'm not worried about all the little scissor lines that I have right now. I'm starting to whittle the shape down. So I start very crude with maybe five or six passes and then as I continue up the head I go maybe 15 passes and by the time I'm finished I will probably have gone over this a couple of hundred times with my scissor as I start to work up the back of the head. And I'm working to the ear.   Addressing the Finer Details Now I'm going to change my comb to something that's a little more detail oriented. The bigger the comb, the more crude the shape is. The smaller the comb, the more detail I'm focusing on. So now I'll start and do exactly the same methodology I was doing before, but this time I'm going to go through and scissor it a hell of a lot more. So as I start to start low I'm uh-oh. I'm following the head shape as I slowly come up and once I hit the occipital bone I start to come away from the head a little bit. After I've got that section done through there I'll go through and do the next section and the next section and the next section all the way over. And what you should see is a light dusting of small little baby hairs that are going to land on your hand. As I get to the occipital bone I start to come out from the head a little bit and what I'm looking for is this very very light dusting of hair. I want it to be almost fur like so that that way I can be assured that I'm getting a nice detail cut. When I'm focusing on scissor over comb, it's less about how much hair I take off and if I can see it as much as I get into a rhythm of going through and cutting my shape and I hear the scissor cutting. Cuz sometimes the amount of hair that gets cut off is so small that you can't see it and it starts to fine-tune the shape. And when it gets really fine-tuned I'll see something that looks like a little bit of a line right, but I can't judge how much hair I'm going to cut off. Or I'm used to cutting in my fingers, I can see how much I'm cutting. Here I can't see so what I have to do is go through and just trace what's already there and once I trace that line anything that sticks out that's not supposed to be there will get cut off. Now we're starting to get a nice soft shape through there and I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. That's looking pretty good through there. I'm liking the way that that's looking and that didn't take me too long. So now let's continue our tapering into the sides of the head. Just going through and crudely starting to whittle my shape in and down against the head. And once the head starts to round then the comb will come off of the head slightly as I work up and over.   Smoothing & Tightening the Military Haircut for Women Once I got that shape done I got that down to where I feel that that's as good as I can get with my big comb then I will go in with my smaller comb and smooth that out and tighten that. Now why don't I just go with the small comb in the first place? Cuz it's too hard to deal with that much hair. The longer the teeth are on the comb, the more hair that I can deal with. The smaller the teeth are on the comb, the less hair I can deal with. And it forces me to deal with smaller sections of hair. Start here at the bottom if I need to come under the ear. Get the motor running and slowly start to go up as the comb. As the head starts to round I leave the comb from the head and start to round the shape out a little bit. I will generally do this right to the mastoid. Very good. Now once I've got this done and this done you'll notice I got this little transition here between the front and the back. So when that happens I'm going to tilt the head. We've got this hairline and this hairline which is parallel. So now I'm going to go through parallel to that and work that up and out. What that does is that allows me to still follow the head shape and then continue to work that up and out. So I'm pretty comfortable with that. Now we're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Alright, so now we're going to start here on the top and in the front. I'm going to take this section, pull it back just a little bit so I leave a little bit of length right here at the front and just crudely start to remove... come on baby...my length up here on the top. And I'll do that until I get to the crown. Next section. And I'm doing the same sort of methodology that I was doing underneath. It's just now I'm working from the front going back and then I'll work on the sides blending into the top, but I just want to get a rough shape of all this hair on top being cut short. So what I'm going to start doing is just going through and working in little pie sections just to go from short and rounding my shape out. Cut that up and over. Give us a thumbs, up click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Freehand Haircutting As I get close to everything being dialed in like I want I can go through and then freehand over the shape just to get those little whispers of hair off, but I want to be very very mindful and conscientious because as I start to tire out I don't want my hands to start shaking and then I end up cutting a hole in the haircut and then I have to go back in and recut the whole thing around it because I got sloppy near the end. And that's usually when things are getting dialed in where you have a momentary loss of muscular coordination and the next thing you know boom! There's a hole. When you first start doing scissor over comb it's going to be rough on your hands and your hands are going to cramp, your thumbs are going to cramp. You know it's not going to be pretty. So I want to work a little bit and if my hand starts cramping I'll take a break. And it's okay. You don't have to power through it. I mean I've got 30 something years of experience and my hands are strong from all the years of doing this and your hands will be too when you're doing it as long as I have and as much as I have. Practice. Practice practice practice. The key to this technical deep dive about doing scissor over comb is the flipping of the comb, the motoring of the scissor. Make sure you have a blade that's long. If it's too short it's going to take you forever. A longer blade allows you to cut through more hair at one time than a smaller blade. Smaller blades force you to deal with small sections. Larger blades you can deal with larger sections and then just follow the shape and follow your guide and keep dialing it in and dialing it in and dialing it in until you get everything nice and smooth like you want.   Final Military Haircut for Women Look You look very G.I. Jane. Anyway, alright I hope that this technical deep dive has helped you picked up some pointers. Practice. Get your hand strong and you'll be able to do it great as well. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kind of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist or barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much. When it comes to female military haircuts, the styles are simple, groomed and have a neat appearance. Military hairstyles for females can be short or long but pulled out of the way. This very short cut is reminiscent of G.I. Jane and while it's not a military women haircut that's common, it is a possible style that can be worn!   Tutorial
The Chelsea Haircut Reimagined for a Modern Look

Tutorial

The Chelsea Haircut Reimagined for a Modern Look

Are you familiar with the Chelsea haircut? The Chelsea cut was a popularized counterculture punk haircut that women and men wore in the 70s and 80s. The look back then was a combination of a shaved head with longer hair in the front. Often associated with skinheads, the Chelsea haircut history actually has no political roots and was aimed more at being different and not adhering to the beauty standards of the time. 80s female hairstyles back then were glamorous, long and big. This British haircut was a stark contrast to the hairstyles seen on magazines. In this video, learn how to create a modified Chelsea haircut. Instead of a shaved head punk look, we're leaving the hair longer in the back for a softer look, but still keeping the overall structure of this England hairstyle. Hence, this modern punk hair look. Follow along with the Chelsea haircut video tutorial and transcript below.   The Chelsea Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a reimagining of the early 80s hardcore Chelsea. We're going to bring it up into the new Millennia. We're going to add a little bit of Japanese texture to it. We're going to still make it clean and hard and edgy but yet a little softer at the same time. Anyway, let's get started. So the whole idea behind the Chelsea originally was that it was a middle finger to the fashion industry because the fashion industry and the beauty standards at the time, you know, in the early 80s was this glamorous bodacious cosmopolitan kind of post disco glamour where everything was super tan, super long, super hot rollered, makeup all the way to the hill and that was what the beauty standard that was being pushed was. And the Chelsea and the punk rock you know movement was really a revolt against all of that. And it was like oh from the front I got this hair but then in the middle it's all buzzed off and shaved and then I got a little hair in the nape. And I think that the iconic you know nature of that haircut is what really caused it to stick around for all these years. So we're going to go through and do a modern interpretation of that. So first thing, let's section out the front section. We're going two flat sections right here to where the bang section would be. Section to right behind the ear and then we're going to take occipital bone to the mastoid or less depending upon the shape that you're going for. And then all this hair in the middle is what we're going to cut really really short. So all of this center section we're going to go through and section out where the crown is and take that to the top of the ears so that way I can get my shortest part separated.   Addressing the Back and Front of the Chelsea Haircut I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor and I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade gives the most exposed blade, so it gives me the ability to cut more hair and get a cleaner cut. We're going to tilt everything down so we can see. I'm going to take a section right in the middle. Now classically, all this hair would just be buzzed short, but since we're doing a softer more modern interpretation of this, I am going to take this short. But I'm not going to buzz it. So I'm going to hold that up and I'm going to push everything down and see where the hair starts to bend and right there at the end of that first bend is the length that I'm going to go through and cut it. Check my length there. Looks good. If anything is too long I'll just thumb that off. So now we've got our shortest piece. So I will hold that 90 degrees from the head. There's my short piece right there and we will go through and cut that down and through. And I'm just cutting everything the same length all the way down right now. We're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Now if you noticed I cut inside out on both sides. That way I get the same sort of movement on both sides. Using my guide length cutting that down and all the way through seeing how that falls. And I'm liking that so far. I like that a lot. Okay so now I'm going to go through on my front section, take a parallel to my previous section that was right in the middle. Here's my first section. Here's my next section. I'll do that on both sides. First section still being pulled at the same elevation in the same angle, but now I'm pulling all the hair back into that guide right in the middle. Check that out. That looks pretty good and then just work that all the way down by continuing to pull everything into the center until I run out of hair. Everything pulled to the quarter part in the middle, the previous cut section. When your guide falls out, cut that down and through. Got a little long right there. So I'll go through, check that length. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now we're going to take our last section here on the top. Pull everything back, follow that original guide cutting from the center out towards the edges. You certainly see we cut that quite short through there and that's the whole look of it. We want a shocking amount of length difference so that we can really really make a statement. Keep going until we run out of hair there. That's looking pretty good. Now if we look at that I'm liking that quite a bit. Now we're going to go back. I'm going to take my original center parting. So here's the first parting right through here. I'm going to take a parallel parting of my hair from behind the quarter part. Now from here I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing I was doing before where I'm pulling everything into my original parting that I cut my original length to. So in the front I pulled back. So in the back I'm going to pull forward. Here's the length right there. It's falling out. Cut everything that same length and work that from the middle until I run out of hair. Continuing on the other side, everything from the center pulling to that original guide. And we got that. I'm going to continue on until I run out of hair. We've got all of the center part of our haircut done. We've pulled everything to the quarter part and got everything nice and short.   Reducing the Blend If I'm happy with this I can move on, but I think what I'm going to do is we've got a pretty good buildup of length going to here and I think I need less of a blend through there. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go through and take a vertical section and change the angle on that. So instead of it gradually increasing in length I'm going to keep everything the same length all the way around the back. So we're going to start here. There's my guide length there in the crown. And I'm going to continue 90 ° from the head all the way down into the nape where I reach the very top of my parting at the occipital bone. There we go. Now we've got instead of increasing in building up length I have maintained the same length all the way down from the crown through the nape. From here, I'll pivot. Follow the same pattern, pull everything 90 °, find my guides, cut that down and through until I reach the top of my parting in the nape which is pinned out of the way for safety's sake so I don't end up cutting that. We'll keep going until we run out of hair. Keep that one out of the way. Come on.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There I like that. I like that better. That's got a lot more pop to it. It's a little bit more dynamic. So we have this complete disconnection of our short hair into the nape. So it kind of makes this righteous kind of mullet shape. And while I love the fact that it is so disconnected I want to go through and soften that up just a little bit.   Blending Around the Nape So I'm going to go through and visually add some blend so that it's not so severe of a cut off. I think if I was to buzz this shorter and go for the classic Chelsea it's fine, but for this I'm trying to modernize it to make a softer more approachable kind of look. Okay so from here I'll take a center section. Take it vertical. You can see the severity of the disconnect so I'm just going to go through and very gently give me a little bit of a blend. I'm not worried about it blending like completely perfectly. I still want to keep that real severe kind of mud flap going on in the back. Take my next section. I'm not even going to look at my previously cut guide. I'm only looking at the short piece of where I'm coming from and then the length of where I'm going to and trying to go through and add a little bit of blend through there so I get a little bit of softness and separation through there. And then the same thing, get that little piece up there where it belongs. The same thing on the very last section on this side. I think what I need to do is put a little bit of channel cutting into this to really add a little bit more separation so that while my mud flap still has some blend, I want more separation to it. And you see by putting that vertical texturing, that separation, how it instantly forced the shape to collapse and now it's a lot more head hugging which I like better. So I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I'm liking that quite a bit. Blunt Bangs and Hair in Front Okay so now here around the front I'm going to separate my bangs. Let's go through and cut these really really blunt. Since everything else is so soft in this haircut with so much texture from the razor let's make this bang, this fringe very hard and make it the focal point of the entire haircut. So I'm going to comb everything clean from the roots all the way down. I'm going to plant my fingers and then gently clamp with zero tension and then going through and using my Jatai Osaka Scissor, it's the sharpest scissor I got with a nice fat heavy blade so I can really get some power behind it. I'm going to cut everything nice and clean and blunt right there across her forehead. There is my fringe section. Cut that solid across. And I don't want it to get longer so I need to change the angle of my fingers. I'll get a rough shape into it and then once I finish the rough shape and blow it dry, then I'll go through and clean it up. After I've got the bangs cut, I'm going to go through and take the entirety of the left side comb everything down. You can see my short little separation right here. My finger is going to match where I want that to fall in the front and then a little shorter gradually getting a little longer going towards the front so it hugs right there at the chin, right at the jawline. Now let's do the same thing or try to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I think we might have got lucky and got it on the first shot. Don't speak too soon though, but I like the way that's hitting the chin. Ouch! I'm going to go buy a lottery ticket. It's actually even. I'm pretty happy with that. Now at this point let's blow it dry, take a look at it and see what we got. Final Look of the Chelsea Haircut Here's our end result. I think it looks pretty cool. I think it looks pretty, a re-imagined version of an early 80s hardcore Chelsea. Softens it up a little bit, adds a little bit of you know modernity to it keeps it soft but yet still edgy. There's always a juxtaposition between styles when it comes to a Chelsea. You got this hard clean front and then this wild Japanese textured in the back and I think that that works well for the right person. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make your better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial

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