Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement

by JATAI Academy, 07 Nov 2025

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement.

For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary.

We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.

Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:

Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob.

We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob.

There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started.

So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of.

Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.

Establishing the One Length Structure

Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client.

Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke.

Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible.

Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement.

The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good.

Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide.

Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky.

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement - Scissors for Bluntness

And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.

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Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful.

So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line.

There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section.

I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line.

Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt.

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement - Vertical Sectioning

Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape.

So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape.

The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer.

So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath.

Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath.

Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side.

Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.

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Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut.

After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around.

So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.

Vertical Sectioning

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement - Pulling Hair Straight Up

So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off.

Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall.

If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down.

Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.

Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement - Final Look

Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing.

And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated.

Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility.

So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair.

Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

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14 Back to School Haircut Inspiration Ideas for Kids

by JATAI, 23 Aug 2023

When it comes to kid's hair, sometimes it's easy just to cut their hair at home if it's a simple trim. But sometimes having a professional do the work is necessary and maybe a fun splurge or even a back-to-school look. Without being over the top, here are some cute inspirational cuts for kids that set the tone for a fun, fresh look for the kiddos. Girls @halcyonsalonshelby What's more classic than some curls. This cutie looks ready for her first day back to school with her hair color and beautiful curls on point. It's not too short but not super long either. This is a great look for any little girl. @impactbeauty_byshay A simple bob is always in style. Sometimes a little girl just doesn't want to fuss with long hair. With a one length pretty bob that's curled at the end, this little girl is rockin' it. It's low maintenance, can be styled in various ways and shows off her youthful, feminine energy. @topnotchbeautycorner Adorable, trendy and cute. This little girl has got it going on in a stylish, fun way. The small details like the gold crown trinkets and gold coil around the braid make any little girl look and feel like a princess. @definitionssalonspa Say yes to the curtain bang. Simple curtain bangs that frame the face add some style and depth to long straight hair. Part the hair down the middle for curtain bangs or style them for a side swept bang with a side part to change it up. The curtain bang is versatile! @hairby_angelina_ine This little girl is beyond her years with this asymmetrical bob that is to die for. And with straight one length bangs, her look is sassy and fun. It's sure to catch a lot of adoring attention...from the parents. @balayagemary A heavy chunky bang is always super cute on little girls. They can somehow pull it off much better than adults. Why is that? Combine it with some waves and you've got a feminine, sweet look. It's easy to maintain and very versatile. @holykale.hair Is she growing up too fast? This little girl looks like she has an adult haircut. With a cute French bob, highlights and slight wave, she's letting everyone know she's the queen of trending hair. Maybe not easy to maintain, but it sure is cute! Boys @luiselbarber Doesn't he look sweet? This gentleman's...or should we say gentleboy's haircut is clean, classic and tidy. It's short on the sides with a little length on top and combed to the side. This little man is ready for school. @salonsuccess This little guy is just cool. While it's temporary, a little hair art shows off his creative side. This kid has great hair so having his hair very short on the sides but longer on top makes his look more edgy and stylish. It's a bit higher maintenance, but it's fun! @machitong Can we say mullet? It's not for every little boy, but they sure look cute with one, much cuter than adult males. This kind of cut looks best when the hair is naturally a bit textured. He's pulls it off well. @xv.josh How cute is this little boy? That smile is adorable and the precise and clean lines of his haircut are on point. The extra design at the top just set this hairstyle off. A bit high maintenance, but it's mainly just the outlining that needs regular attention. @hairbiz.withizz Scroll through all the images and you'll see this haircut is more than it seems. At first it looks like a pompadour, but when you look at the back, it's a whole other story. This look works well on a boy with a great head of hair. It's edgy, relatively easy to maintain and stylish. @a1errthing This little boy looks so happy and he should be! This haircut fits him perfectly. It's clean and stylish at the same time. He definitely looks school ready with his perfectly razored outlined hairline and simple hair design in the back. @hairbyscheila For a more tidy, classy look, try a side hard part. It's easy for any barber to create with a razor and it gives an extra pop to any boy's hairstyle. Comb the top of the hair to the opposite direction of the part and use a little product. He's ready to go!

The Evolution of Hairstyles Throughout the Decades

by JATAI, 16 Aug 2023

Hairstyles have always been a significant aspect of human culture, reflecting the trends, values, and social norms of different eras. Let's explore the history and evolution of hairstyles over the decades: 1920s The Roaring Twenties introduced a major shift in women's hairstyles. The iconic bob haircut became popular, characterized by short, straight hair that was often worn with a side parting. This style symbolized women's liberation and a break from traditional gender roles. 1930s The 1930s saw a transition from the boyish bob to more feminine and glamorous looks. Soft waves and curls were fashionable, and women often used hot rollers or pin curls to achieve the desired effect. The Hollywood influence played a significant role in popularizing these glamorous hairstyles. The most popular look was the Hollywood wave which has continued to be a popular look in the 2020s. 1940s The World War II era influenced hairstyles as practicality and functionality became essential. Victory rolls were popular among women, involving rolling and pinning sections of hair to create a prominent wave at the front. Shorter, cropped hairstyles were also prevalent due to the practicality of working women. The victory roll is a popular hairstyles for pinup girls of today. 1950s The 1950s embraced femininity and elegance. Women's hairstyles often featured voluminous curls, poodle cuts, and the iconic bouffant. The advent of hair spray helped maintain these elaborate styles. Men's hair was often slicked back or styled into a pompadour. 1960s The 1960s brought about a revolution in hairstyles, influenced by the counterculture movements and the rise of British pop culture. Women started to experiment with shorter haircuts like the pixie cut and the mod bob. The beehive hairstyle, popularized by icons like Audrey Hepburn, was also a notable trend. 1970s The 1970s showcased diverse hairstyles influenced by the hippie movement and disco culture. Women embraced long, flowing hair, often with center parts. The Afro hairstyle gained popularity among African-Americans as a symbol of pride and identity. Men's hairstyles became more relaxed, with longer hair, shaggy cuts and facial hair. 1980s The 1980s were characterized by bold and dramatic hairstyles. Big hair was in, with women teasing their hair to achieve volume and using copious amounts of hairspray. Perms, mullets, and feathered hairstyles were all the rage. Men also sported voluminous hairstyles, including the famous "mullet" style. 1990s The 1990s witnessed a more casual and grunge-inspired approach to hairstyles. The "Rachel" haircut, popularized by Jennifer Aniston's character on the TV show "Friends," became incredibly trendy. Short, pixie cuts also gained popularity among women. Men's hairstyles ranged from long, unkempt looks to shorter, textured styles. 2000s The turn of the millennium brought a mix of hairstyles. Straight, sleek hair became fashionable, often achieved through the use of straightening irons. Emo and scene subcultures popularized asymmetrical cuts, choppy layers, and bold colors. Men's hairstyles varied from buzz cuts to spiky hair. 2010s The 2010s embraced a diverse range of hairstyles. The ombre trend gained popularity, with hair transitioning from dark to light colors. Buns, braids, and top knots became go-to styles for women. Men's hairstyles incorporated undercuts, fades, and more intricate beard grooming. 2020s And finally, we reach the modern day hairstyles. The 2020s have seen a diverse range of popular hair trends. These trends reflect a blend of past styles with contemporary influences and individual expression. These types of cuts and looks have all been popularized so far. Natural Textures There has been a growing emphasis on embracing natural hair textures and celebrating diversity. People with curly and wavy hair have been encouraged to let their natural textures shine, leading to the popularity of hairstyles like the curly afro, twist-outs, and braid-outs. Bob and Lob Haircuts The bob and lob (long bob) haircuts have remained popular in the 2020s. These versatile styles can be customized to suit different face shapes and hair textures. The blunt bob, textured bob, and asymmetrical lob have been particularly trendy. Pixie Cuts Short pixie cuts have made a comeback in the 2020s, offering a bold and chic look. This style allows for low-maintenance haircare routines and can be customized with different textures and lengths to suit individual preferences. Curtain Bangs Curtain bangs, also known as Bardot bangs or '70s bangs, have gained popularity. This style features long, face-framing bangs that are parted in the middle, creating a soft and romantic look. Curtain bangs can be paired with various hairstyles, from long waves to updos. Shag Haircuts The shag haircut, inspired by the '70s, has been a popular choice in the 2020s. This layered cut adds texture and movement to the hair, often with feathered or choppy ends and best achieved with a razor. The modern shag offers a versatile and effortlessly cool aesthetic. Balayage and Face-Framing Highlights Balayage, a technique that creates soft, natural-looking highlights, has continued to be a sought-after trend in the 2020s. Face-framing highlights, where lighter tones are strategically placed around the face, have also gained popularity as they can brighten and accentuate facial features. Sustainable and Low-Maintenance Styles With increasing environmental awareness and thanks to the pandemic, sustainable and low-maintenance hairstyles have become popular. Effortless, air-dried looks, minimalist haircuts, and styles that require minimal product usage have gained traction. This trend aligns with the desire for a more eco-friendly and time-efficient approach to haircare. Throughout the generations, hairstyles have changed dramatically. Every generation has been characterized by different looks and styles. As people continue to express their creativity with their hair, as new products are developed and as social and political climates change, these all influence how we decide to express ourselves through our personal styles. While some trends have lasted for decades, others have come and gone. Who knows what the rest of the 2020s or 2030s will bring. Whatever it is, we're sure it's going to be memorable.

Bobs, Bobs and More Bobs: The Trend of 2023

by JATAI, 24 May 2023

It seems 2023 is starting off with some fun looks. After a couple years of shagadelic haircuts and mullety styles, the trending looks are taking a more classic approach these days. While shags and mullets may have had their run, the bob is turning out to take centerfold. The great thing about a bob is that it's so versatile. There are many ways to cut and style a bob to match a personality or persona. Bobs can be long or short, blunt or textured, curled or straight with or without bangs. The creative possibilities are endless! Let's look at 10 popular bob styles that get the most love. The Graduated Bob The graduated bob is a type of bob with stacked layers in the back with longer strands in the front. The back of the hair tends to be more curved instead of a hard angle. It is it a difficult haircut to achieve but it looks great when done right. It's a very common and popular short haircut. It can be achieved by using scissors or a razor. A-Line Bob Alternatively, the A-Line haircut refers to the perimeter of the haircut. It is the same as a graduated bob in that the hair is shorter in the back and longer in the front. However, it does not have the stacking of layers in the back. And the front is usually more pointed than a graduated bob. Asymmetrical Bob This type of bob's distinct characteristic is that one side in front is longer than the other. It can have layers or no layers and it can be stacked or not stacked in the back. There are different renditions of an asymmetrical bob, but it's usually a style for someone who wants a little edge to their bob style. French Bob The French bob is a classic bob hairstyle characterized by very short hair, either at the chin line or above. Sometimes it's paired with short bangs too. Think of the movie Amelie and you'll know what this looks like. It usually has lots of layers and texture for a choppy look. For the extra texture, a razor works well. Italian Bob Similar to a French Bob, the Italian bob is slightly longer, usually grazing the chin or below but above the shoulders. It's sophisticated and elegant and has a blunt straight edge. The Italian bob carries weight at the bottom with a lot of volume. It can be achieved by using scissors or a razor...or both at the same time. Lob Lob stands for 'long bob' so the hair generally skims the shoulders or goes slightly past it. This is a popular look in modern times as it gives a happy medium between having short and long hair. When curled it can look shorter and resemble a traditional bob, but when straightened it can look more like medium length hair. Straight Bob A classic, simple no frills bob is the straight bob. With no layers, no texture, no curls or stacking, this look is very basic. It can be cut with bangs if desired, but the general look is one of sleek sophistication. The look is completely symmetrical and lays flat against the head. It can look quite sultry and sexy if done right. Layered Bob This style is also known as a textured bob. Simply stated, this type of bob has more body and movement to give volume. While the straight bob has no layers or volume, the layered bob is all about the extra lift. The extra texture is often achieved by using a razor. Curly Bob With even more texture is the curly bob. The curly bob is full of bounce and volume. It could be layered but it doesn't have to be. This bob is fun and full of life and energy. The curls could be natural or intentionally made with a curling iron or curling tool. The curls can be tight and small or big and loose. There are so many ways a curly bob can look! Modern Bob The modern bob is so 2023. It's what has been trending for bobs in the last few years. And it's THIS bob. While it won't last forever, it is the 'it' style as of late. The modern bob is characterized as casual, cool, soft and feminine. It usually has a slight curl in there and a little volume. It's a simple yet stylish bob that's attractive and eye catching. It's no wonder the modern bob has become so popular. So that's it! 10 bob hairstyles for 2023. Although most of these bobs have been around for many many years, it just goes to show how classic the bob really is. It will never go out of style and there will always be new innovative ways to cut and style a bob. Here's to short hair in 2023. Hair Trends, Women

Women

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement