Tutorial

What is a bixie cut? A bixie is a bob an pixie cut mixed together. The style is a modern take on short hair that's easy to wear with natural movement and volume. It compliments different face shapes and is a popular cut done in the salon. Minimal products are generally used. In this video we take a look at a short bixie haircut for fine hair. We look at different considerations when dealing with fine hair and recommendations on how to address it.  Watch this tutorial for how to do a low maintenance bixie haircut for fine hair and follow along with the transcript below.    Bixie Haircut for Fine Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a bixie haircut specifically for finer hair types. We're going to show you how to maintain the most thickness and fullness, but still get that iconic bixie shape with the razoring around the front. But we'll show you how to judiciously apply the razor so that you don't end up over texturizing it and taking all the weight out of it. So, let's get started.   Square-ish Graduation Separating the nape in the back. And then we're going to take a center section, separating left to right and top to bottom. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor, a 6-in scissor. I like this one for doing really tight, clean fitting work where I need a skinny pointy blade to be able to dial in exactly what I'm doing. It's a nice sharp blade and it lasts a long time. And this is probably my most used scissor. We're going to start with a center section, pulling that straight out from the head. And then I will cut a 45° angle into it. And I'll start to walk that guide from the center over to the right. I'll hold that out straight from the head, 90° from the head, cutting a 45° angle into it. Longer at the top, shorter at the bottom. I'll remove the first section that I took. Now I have my second and third section. I will hold those two together in the center of both of those sections. Hold it out 90 from the head and then cut my 45°ish angle into it following my previously cut guide. So, this is going to give me a walking square-ish graduation where the graduation is the same in the center of the head as it is the same as it gets closer to the ear. So, it's not triangular where it's shorter in the center and longer towards the ears. This is keeping my graduation all the same straight across the back. I'll continue to walk my guide until I get to the ear. And then I'll comb everything down and cross check it to make sure everything blends smoothly and cleanly. Now, right there at the bottom of the nape, I couldn't get my fingers tight enough. So, I'm taking that very first section right there, shorter, and tightening that up right at the very hairline of the nape. Now, I can control how long and how steep I want this graduation based upon how fine the person's hair is. The finer it is, it will usually respond better to a lower angle of graduation as opposed to higher.   Beveling and Point Cutting Now, we're going to go through and take my first horizontal section that's going to parallel the first section that I took, which was the occipital bone to the mastoid. I'm holding it at that elevation, which is peak curvature of the head. So, I'll lay my comb right at the parting, hold it at that elevation to continue to bevel my shape, and then I'm going to deep point cut this. I want these point cuts to be very prominent. I'm not going to go through and really whisper all these point cuts in there. The reason for that is if I make that point cut much more defined and definite, I'll have a little bit more solidity and weight to it as opposed to it just completely meshing all together. So, I'll be able to see the texture and the separation without removing so much weight. I'm going to follow along with my next parallel section as I work up the back of the head. Starting in the center again and then holding it off at this elevation right here, peak curvature of the head. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Now I'm continuing on with the same method I was doing before of making a very defined point cut as I hold it out at the peak curvature of graduation. By holding it out at that peak curvature, not only do I continue my graduation that I started from the bottom, but it bevels the shape a little bit. So I'm actually cutting a curved line into it, if you were to hold this out and cross check it. I'll continue on now. At this point, I don't hold it at peak curvature because as the head starts to go up and round, I want to maintain some weight. So, I'm holding it at the peak curvature of the parietal ridge, which is right there at the drop crown. And it's kind of, the parietal ridge is that area that they measure your head if you're going to get a fitted hat. It's uh the top of the recession and the bottom of the recession around the front that continues in a horse shoe halo shape all the way around and it separates the bottom of the head from the top of the head. Just continuing to work that until I run out of hair section by section as we work from the center of the back towards the front of the head. Here we go. We get a very nice clear shot of there. Making strong, diligent, defined point cuts as we're going through. Very little needs to be cut off. So, we're cutting very little.   Razor Cutting Around the Face Now, we're moving on to my Feather Styling Razor. This is the guarded razor, so I don't have to worry about cutting myself, but it still gives me a super clean cut. We're gonna take a section right around the front. I'm gonna hold this forward, and right there at the eyebrow, I'm going to cut a really, really steep line going from short to long. The long being right there where my little bob shape was. And I'm curving that shape forward. Now, we're going to go through and etch some of that out to make that hime piece right there at the front more defined. So, that's going to separate that piece because it's not going to blend in with the bob shape so much and it's going to pop out. Now, we're going to take the next section behind it, which is parallel to the front section, but I'm going to completely ignore my guide from underneath. I'm going to pull this forward and right about the tip of the nose, blend that from shorter to longer, not cutting into my guide of the bob length underneath. But I am creating a new guide at the top of the section. The next section I'll pull forward exactly the same as the previous section and cut from the tip of the nose down to my length. So that's going to give me that beveling around the front and the appearance of it being shorter without actually cutting the entire side shorter.   Curtain Bangs Now, let's go through and separate the top of the head. I'm separating right at the very front, which is going to be my bang piece. I'm going to pull the center out. Cut my shortest piece right there. I like to cut it a little shorter than I feel comfortable with to force that curtain bang to really pop. After I cut the center, I'm going to comb everything else forward and down and cut my overall length of where I'm going to. So, I have where I'm coming from right there in the center, which is my short piece. I have my going to, which is my long piece right there at each corner of the hairline, right around the front where my bang section is. And I'll go through and blend short to long. This is a very very steep angle and it requires a little bit of time to make sure everything fits in nice and perfectly and gets that short hair pushing longer hair movement that's really really iconic for a curtain bang. Shorter in the middle pushing to longer towards the edges just like that. Taking our next section here now completely ignoring underneath and just go through and razor some of this hair off. I'm just choosing a completely random guide about the tip of the nose. I'm not using that short piece where I started my curtain bang underneath. And I'll go through and point cut this where I'm not necessarily just point cutting the tip, but I am cutting a channel in it where it's going shorter from the center, longer to the right, and then shorter from the right and longer to the center. So, I'm actually going through and cutting these real steep angles internally in the section to cut all of that length off that I don't want. I'm completely ignoring the sides, completely ignoring the underneath, and allowing this hair to hang over. I can fine-tune it as I need to as the hair starts to get more and more cut. And I see how the shape is developing.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Separation and Weight Removal Continuing on, just following the same methodology, channel razoring some of this out to get a lot of separation and some weight removal. Now, because I'm going through and removing weight specifically around the front and on the top, that allows me to leave the weight on the sides so I can still have a thicker, fuller shape. And this works extremely well on finer hair textures. Disconnections work well, especially when you're trying to get something that's very, very textured like this shape is. Now, from here, after I've cut the front and I've got everything like I want, that's completely disconnected from the sides, I'm going to go through and take a center section on the top. I'm going to pull this straight up in the air. And then I'm going to go through and take some of that length out so I start getting more of a pixie shape on top. Going from back to front, keeping everything nice and short. I will probably cut this shorter than I feel comfortable because I want it to pop and I need that those shorter layers in there to make that pixie really really pop. After I cut my center section, using that as the guide, taking my next section on the left side of the head, holding that into the center of the head, keeping the same razor stroke that I was using, the more consistent that I can keep the razor stroke, the more consistent my end results are going to be. Now, right through here, I'm starting to run out of hair. Now, we've got uh our last section right here on top. I'm not going to continue to pull the sides up, only the very, very top section that I was cutting my pixie on. I'm leaving the sides to be my bob shape. So, it's really actually two haircuts. I got a pixie on the top of the head and I got a bob underneath. Now, they both have a little bit of texture so that allows them to blend. And as long as I keep it fitting the head properly, everything's going to blend nice. Check everything out. Fine-tune as needed. And this is looking pretty good. Let's blow dry.   Bixie for Fine Hair Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking, you know, I think we're looking really good. I like this shape. I like the fact that we've got this bixie kind of top in front, which is really the iconic part of it where you get this little pixie top and then you have this bobbed shape in the back. Most pixie bixie haircuts, they're going to pixie it from the front and then bob it in the back. So, what we're doing is we're bobbing it underneath and keeping the pixie on the top. So, I think we still get this iconic kind of razor bang. We get this little hime piece right here on the side, which I really like. And we still maintain a nice amount of fullness in the back. So, we can still get that graduation and that pop and stack. You can remove as much hair as you need or you can leave as much hair as you need depending upon the client's hair texture and thickness and density. So, give it a shot. Add this to your repertoire and I think it will open up a world of possibilities for you. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.

When it comes to bob hairstyles, short bobs have a certain edgy style that can also be structured and clean. This bob haircut creates very short hair with no layers or curls. Nor does it have any added texture or volume. It's completely straight. It's probably not the best look for fine hair or very thick hair, but it can compliment certain face shapes. The ultra short bob is cut fully with scissors with some razored bangs. Very little beauty products are used to style the hair. Watch the video below and follow along with this transcript.   Ultra Short Bob Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a super short bob with bangs. The bob that has the perfect balance between edgy and cute. It's going to be so short, shorter than a French bob, but not so short that it gets into bowl cut territory. I'm going to show you how to section it properly. I'm going to show you how to make sure you get a clean line, and we're going to throw in some super soft bangs. So, let's get started. We're going to start with a natural or center part. We're going to take just above the occipital bone to about the middle of the ear on each side. This is going to section out the nape section where I'm going to taper this in nice and clean.   Cutting the Length at the Nape I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is my favorite scissor for doing scissor over comb with, which we're going to get into in a little bit. I'm going to start cutting it finger length right at the nape. And then I'm going to follow that slowly up the back of the head. So I'm going to cut everything the same length in the nape section through here. So each section I'll go a little bit higher following my guide from underneath and just working that all the way up and out. That way, if I have a lot of hair, this allows me to get rid of the bulk of that hair without having to worry about being real meticulous and real precise with my tapering. This is more of let's just remove this excess hair that will allow me to dial it in much cleaner and I won't have to fight it when I start doing any kind of scissor over comb work that I'm going to do or in areas that I want to taper really nice and clean. I'll cut a basic shape, get rid of the length, and then start to fine-tune the shape. Now, we're going to go through with my scissor over comb. And with this, I want to trace what I've already put in. I'm not going to go through and cut everything finger length and then go back and lay the comb against the head and cut everything the length of the comb. That's just doubling the work. So I go through and cut it finger length to build up the length that I want. And then I go back in with my scissor over comb and fine-tune the shape. So the idea behind fine-tuning the shape is I want to trace what's already there. And anything that sticks out beyond what I'm tracing gets cut off and allows me to clean up the shape with each pass. After I get the shape done closely like I want, then I'll go through and start cleaning up the perimeter shape. And then also this little perimeter area right behind the ear. Be very delicate through there. And just go through and start to clean up my perimeter. Now, any hair that's kind of sticking out and porcupining out, I'm just going to go through and scissor just like I would cut a hedge. I'm just...anything that cuts, anything that sticks out, I'm going to cut off. Gently laying my scissor against the hair and just tracing what's already there to clean up the shape.   Cutting the Rest of the Length Now, we're going to move on to my next section. And I'm taking about an inch section as I go up. I'm now I'm going to switch to my Jatai Kyoto Scissor. The reason I'm switching scissors is this is the sharpest, heaviest bladed scissor that I have. So that when I go through to cut a really clean line, this will give me the cleanest line with the least amount of scissor push that I can have of all of my tools. So when I want a really, really clean line, I'm going to use my Kyoto Scissor. I'll cut the initial length. Look at where that that falls on the ear. And if that needs to be a little shorter, I'll cut it a little shorter. So, I'm looking where it's going to the ear because I want this to hit the bottom of the ear. I don't want it to be longer than the ear, but not quite in the middle, but I want like the earlobe-ish length. So, I'll start in the center and slowly work that line towards the ear. When I'm combing each section down, I am using zero tension. The only tension that I have is whatever the comb has given me. So, I have to be very, very mindful that as I'm combing this down to not lay my fingers and drag my fingers across the section so that I introduce any sort of tension, which is going to cause the hair to spring up and graduate After I get my initial line like I want, I'll take my next section as I move up the head. Start in the center exactly the same way I was doing before. Comb this nice and clean from the roots all the way to my fingers. Then once I get to the length that I want to cut it, clamp my fingers down, go through, cut everything perpendicular to the hair. You'll notice that I'm not flipping my fingers up. I'm keeping everything held down low and perpendicular to the section. If I start to roll my fingers up, that's going to give me a little bit of graduation and cut the top layer a little shorter than the underneath layer. And it's going to really, really show on a simple haircut like this. Since this is such a simple line, it's going to magnify any little mistake, any little graduation that you get. Now, I'm not going to be super neurotic about making sure that everything is absolutely flawless and work myself to death, but I want to maintain proper technique. So, it gives me the best chance of success that I can get. So, it requires, it will require, let me get that straight, less clean up. The less I clean up afterwards, the better. Now, I could sit here all day and clean this line up and clean it up and cut it and clean it up and cut it, but then I'll end up with no hair left. So, there's a certain amount of diminishing returns of cleaning it up. I can only clean it up so much before I have no hair left. So, now we're going with our next section. The same methodology I was using before. Comb everything clean from the root, zero tension, clamp my fingers, and then cut straight across. This will give me the least amount of graduation and the cleanest straightest line that I can possibly get. The thing about cutting one length is it will show all of your technical flaws. Are you combing it straight? Are you cutting it perpendicular? Are you flipping your fingers? Are you flipping the scissor? Are you cutting it directly on top of your previously cut guide or shorter or longer? A simple shape reveals all of your flaws. So, you have to pay attention to that.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to go through here with our last section. Again, no tension. The more tension that you apply, the more graduation that you're going to get and the more it's going to spring up. Especially on thick springy mannequin hair like this or with someone that has a lot of cowlicks. Tension will make a cowlick spring up and it will be Alfalfa all over the place. So make sure as least amount of tension as possible. Here we're coming to our last section. Looking pretty decent there. Now I'm not trying to get it perfect when it's wet. After it's dry, I can go through and clean it up a little bit more. That's looking pretty good. I like the length there. It's just showing a little bit of the bottom of the earlobe, which I like.   Razored Bangs Now, I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor, and I'm using the Standard Blade, and I'm going to take my bang section, comb everything straight down. Now I'm holding in my left hand with a lot of tension so I can keep that real taunt and then gently applying the razor to the top surface of the of the section so I can cut everything off to the length that I want. I'm taking a pretty broad stroke so I can keep this very very soft. The broader the stroke, the softer the end result. The shorter the stroke, the cleaner and more blunt that the end result's going to be. And I'm liking that. So now we're going to continue on to the right side of her hair and then comb that down following my guide from the middle gently running my razor across the section and clean up as needed. So even though I'm taking a broad stroke, I still want a straight line across the face. So I'm keeping my left hand stationary so that my line doesn't drag or waver and get longer towards one side or the other. I'm trying to keep that as even as possible. Now, even though I've used a really long stroke, sometimes I have a little bit of weight buildup somewhere that I don't want. So, I'm going to comb everything down and then just take the razor and gently comb across the top of the hair. And that way, I'll start to remove a little bit of length. And it won't be introducing any kind of separation. It's only going to thin it out nice and evenly across the entire section. Gently apply the razor. Don't get aggressive with this. So, you end up with patches. You'll end up with patches. Looking good. Now, let's go through and blow it dry. I put a little bit of cream on it to help smooth it out. Using my Du-Boa Brush to get everything nice and smooth.   Softening the Line Now, I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a nice thinning scissor that has the perfect amount of blend and the perfect amount of weight removal. I'm going to start at the bottom and trace my line that I've already cut. As I go up into my bob line, I'm only texturizing the very, very tips of the section. What that's going to do is that's going to give me a softening of my line. It's not going to change the shape. It's just going to soften that edge. And you can see right through there how it softened and beveled that line just a little bit so it doesn't look so lumpy and it doesn't look so overly thick. It softens up the back of the shape. But since I still have that hard edge line right around the sides, this blends perfectly with the hair as it transitions into the side of the head. Now in the bottom, I'm just going to go through and retrace what's there as I get into my bob line, just the very eighth inch of the tips to just soften that edge up. And that's looking pretty smooth. I like how that's beveling that edge just a little bit.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And we just keep working until everything is polished and finished exactly like we want.   Final Look of the Very Short Bob Haircut Here's our end result of this short short bob. And I think that this looks pretty good. I really like this hard line that we have here on the sides and it being at an uncomfortably short length for most people that are going to wear a bob. This is going to be too short for them. So, I think because it's shorter than common, it adds that kind of edgy aesthetic to it. But at the same time, because we've beveled this line in the back, but still have a good solid line. It softens the shape up, especially from the back. And then these super short 'kawaii' cute bangs I think really add to it overall. Gives us the perfect balance between edge and cute. I like it. So add the technique of no tension one length cutting to your repertoire. I think that will go a long way towards enhancing your overall skills. Also check out the JATAI Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Comment below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

If you've ever watched Mad Men featuring Jon Hamm as Don Draper, you would know he had an iconic hairstyle that reflected the haircuts of the time period. He had a classic men haircut that was short and clean cut with a side part. Classic hairstyles will always be popular and so in this tutorial we focus on his haircut from the show. It's a versatile cut that works with any face shape and uses minimal products (if any). Follow along with the video and transcript below.  Jon Hamm Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on a masculine comb over. Now, most of the comb overs that you see today are going to be really tight skin fades with the top longer, parted on one side, really extreme and combed over. We're going to do a more Mad Men style where it's a little bit more conservative, a little bit more retro, but still just as cool. So, let's get started.   Cutting the Sides So, we're going to start here with a side parting. And I'm usually going to separate the top from the bottom around the center of the recession. Since we're going with a kind of comb over look, I'm going to take a little bit higher. So, I'm going to the top of the recession, straight back to the quarter part, down into the nape. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in variety. And I like a long pointy scissor whenever I'm doing shorter type of work like this. So, I'm taking a diagonal section back and I'm cutting it parallel to the parting. I'm going to take a little bit shorter right there at the front. Just a little scissor over comb to get my length nice and clean there in front of the ear. And now I'm going to walk my guide from the first section all the way back. And what I mean by walking my guide is I take the first section as my guide and then I add the second section into the first section. The third section I can remove the first section. So it's just the second and third section. Here I'm working on the third and fourth section. So the guide is moving with each section that I go. And I remove the previously cut guide for that section. So this allows me to cut everything fairly similar in length from the front all the way into the back. And I just have to be methodical about this and take all my sections and partings at about the same width. If I do one section thicker and one section thinner, I'm going to end up with inconsistencies in my length, meaning that it's going to get more length as I go to the back if I take inconsistent section sizes. And it's going to make my layering kind of lumpy. So, here we're going from the top of the parting down into the nape and I'm just following the same parting size or section that I took from the very front. It's the same angle. That angle right around the front of the hairline is the same angle right behind the ear. So, that hairline is very similar. And this allows me to keep everything very symmetrical and nice and smooth and also be able to match it on the opposite side. I'll work all the way back into the middle section and cross over just a little bit right here onto the left side from the right side. So then after I finish this section, I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side. Now, it's important that I take sections very, very similar on both sides so that I have a symmetry in my parting and symmetry on the top separating from the bottom. So, here I'm making sure I got everything the same on both sides. And I'll cut the right side exactly the same way that I cut the left side.   Cutting the Back Here, I just want to take it and taper it in a little bit tighter just at the hairline. Now, when I first cut this, I'm trying to cut it as short as I can at the nape, but it's only going to allow me to cut it as short as my fingers are thick. So, here, going back in and doing a little scissor over comb just at the hairline, and then blending that up and out will get it a little bit tighter and cleaner at the hairline. Now, I'm just starting here close at the hairline, cutting it really short, and then blending it up and out. As I get to the top of this section, I'm not really cutting that much hair, but I keep going through the motions so that I can keep my scissor over comb rhythm going. I find that when I have a rhythm doing my scissor over comb, even if I'm not cutting hair, if I just keep going through the rhythm and the motions of it, it will allow me to get a much cleaner result, and I don't have to go through and clean it up so many times.   Fine-Tuning the Sides Now here, just starting out crude and then fine-tuning my shape by more scissor strokes gets me cleaner and cleaner and cleaner. And just being patient as I'm going through and doing this. Right there. Good. Now, we're going to clean it up a little bit over the ears here. That's looking pretty good. I like that.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. Making sure I don't cut his ear. The poor boy there. I can't have that. And that's looking pretty good. Now, I'm not trying to get this super clean. I'm just trying to get a cleanish shape because I can go through and clean it up more when it's dry.   Graduating the Back Now, I'll take a center section just so it shows me where the head shape is and I can separate the front of the head from the back of the head. Now I'm going to go through and take a parallel parting. Like instead of a pie section that most of the time you're taking here in the back, I'm taking more of a candy bar section where it's just parallel. It's not pivoting like a pie triangular shape. It's just parallel. I'll hold that straight back and then follow whatever the line of graduation that I had underneath and I'll follow that same kind of length angle as I go up towards the crown. Once I got that cut and I've got everything blended like I want, I will take a parallel section to the right. So, I have the center part and my first section to the right that are both parallel. I'll hold it into the center of both of those two sections and follow the previously cut guide as I'm cutting from shorter at the occipital bone, longer as I get up towards the crown. Now I'll remove the first section and take my third section right here as I'm walking my guide over from the center. So there we have second and third section. Hold it to the center of both of those two sections. Pulling it straight back and then cutting any length that hangs over my previously cut guide. That's looking pretty good. Now I'll take and remove my second section. So I have my third section as my guide. The next section I'll pull straight back. I'm not rounding it out across the head. I'm just pulling everything straight back to make sure it blends in the back. And that's going to leave me a little bit more length right there as I get closer to the ear. And you'll see it right here. Right there. You can see that little bit of length right there. That's going to allow me a little bit more length as I get into the sides. But we're going to go through and do the other side exactly the same way we did in the back.   Razoring the Right Side and Top Now we're working on the sides. I'll take a parallel section using my Feather Plier Razor. And this is no guard. No guard razor gives me a lot more control and I can get a cleaner cut because I don't have the guard stopping me from getting as clean as I would like to or need to. Here I'm using the guide length that I had at the back of the head and working that into the side. So, I have my parallel section that I took that was parallel to the first section on the side that we took. And I'm combing everything kind of down at a graduated angle using that guide length in the back as I work forward. Now, here I'm trying to determine what's the best length for this side here as I'm working through because I want enough length that it can kind of slick back and provide me with enough to slick back and really give that full look, but I don't want so much length there that it starts to flop forward like an undercut would. So, I'm trying to balance between how much length is right and how much is too much. And I'll cut a little bit and comb it. And cut a little bit and comb it. Once I feel I got that right length, then I'll continue working up towards the center of the head, taking parallel sections. Here's my next parallel section. I have my guide length from underneath that I feel like is the right length. And I'll work that from front to back. Just taking even strokes on my razor so I have a consistent kind of razor stroke and a consistent amount of texture that's going through and thinning the hair and cutting it at the same time. Once we've got everything cut there, I'll continue to work this length all the way up into the center of the head. There we go. That's looking pretty good. I like that length. Now, if I feel that that length on top is becoming too thick, I'll take a broader razor stroke or I can go through and channel cut it a little bit or I can fillet internally a little bit more texture to remove weight. But since this is a fuller type of haircut, it has more weight to it. I'm going to go through and take very little each time so I don't over thin it.   Razoring the Left Side Now, we're going to go through and cut the left side and I'm going to comb everything back and find out where the hair wants to kind of part on its own. And then I'm going to take that parting and I'm going pretty far over. This side I'm going to completely cut different. I'm not looking to comb everything back. A typical comb over is combed over on one side. One side's going to be really short and blended in. This is the side that's going to be blended in. So, instead of taking a horizontal section, I'm taking a vertical section like the first section that I was taking on the side of the head, and I'm combing everything straight out and blending it through into the length that I cut underneath. And I'm just going to take parallel sections as I work all the way back here. You can see the angle of the section that I'm taking. And I'm just going to cut everything straight up and down that same length to make sure it blends together on this side because one side gets combed over and back. The other side just gets combed straight down. This is the side that gets combed straight down. So, I don't want any kind of overhang here. I don't want any kind of undercut on the shorter side. So, I just take my time and go through and blend this through and make sure everything blends perfectly. And I'll take parallel sections as I work all the way into the back of the head. And it's important to keep your sections very very similar in size and also in thickness. Now, if the hair gets a little thick, I may take a thinner section. If it gets a little bit thinner, I may take a larger section. But I want to try to maintain as much consistency as possible.   Follow us on your favorite social media @Jatai Feather   Here we're just continuing the same sectioning all the way back until I run out of hair. That's looking pretty good. Being careful to not go through and get too exaggerated and excited with my razor so I don't cut myself. Perfect. That's looking pretty good, the last section here. And everything's blending through quite well.   Clipper Over Comb Now, we're going to go through and blow everything dry. And just blowing everything dry as neutral as possible on the side. So, if I have anything that sticks out, I can go ahead and fix that. After everything's dry, I'm going to take my clippers and right there at the nape, I want to fit that in a little bit tighter. So, I'm taking my clipper and doing a little clipper over comb. Just getting it real clean and tight right there at the nape. Doing the same kind of methodology I was doing with my scissor over comb. But with the clipper on dry hair, I can see exactly how much hair I want to take off. I can see the exact result as I do it. If I'm doing scissor over comb on wet hair, it's a little bit hidden because the hair is wet and it hides things. But on dry hair, you can see the exact result you get. So, I like to use clippers more on dry hair than I do on wet hair. They cut better on dry hair as well.   Final Look So, here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I think we've got a nice little taper going on without it being a skin fade, which is so typical of this type of haircut. And not everybody can wear a skin fade. Someone's got a funky head, you can't do that on them. So, a little bit longer is good. So, this is a study on how to do it longer and keep the essence of the shape with a little bit more length. And I find that most of my younger clientele that's coming in is over the fade. They don't want it skinned anymore. They want a little bit of hair. So, this is a perfect transition of someone that is growing a fade out. You can still keep it really clean and groomed around the edges, but still start to grow some hair out. So, I think this is not only a great style in and of itself, but also an excellent transition style when you're going from really short to really long. And I think this looks pretty good. Please check out the Jatai Academy or our shop. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Leave us a comment below if you have a question. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

Shirley Partridge of the Partridge family in the 1970s rocked a modern pixie mullet style. Who knew it could come full circle and make it's way back into a more modern edgy hairstyle? Using scissors and a razor, this short hair pixie cut has layers and hair texture and a fun look. Mixie haircuts have become popular in modern times. Watch this short modern pixie mullet tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Shirley Partridge Modern Pixie Mullet Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a modern version of the Shirley Partridge from the Partridge family. She had this really cool pixie kind of cut and I think that's where the little pixie wolf bang came from was from her. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut. But she also had a little modern a little rock and roll version of it with it being a little longer in the back, a little mullety in the back. So, we're going to show you how to do a pixie cut mullet on our mannequin head here. It's very cool, very iconic, something you might see walking around the streets of Silver Lake. Silver Lake, if you don't know, is the coolest part of LA. It's where all the cool people are. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut and make all your clients super cool. So, let's get started.   Point Cut Mohawk Sections So, let's just jump right on in here. I'm going to take a mohawk section and I'm going to hold each section at 90° straight out from the head and I'm going to point cut that across. Take a small piece as my guide and move on back and just cut my entire mohawk section the same-ish length all the way from front to back. And I'm determining my length by where it falls on the face. I want it to fall a little bit above the tip of the nose, but not quite up to the eyebrow. You can obviously take this shorter, you know, or longer depending upon your client and their thickness and density of their hair. And I think that Shirley wore her hair quite a bit shorter than I'm cutting it. But since I'm trying to modernize it, I'm going to leave myself a little bit more length to get a little bit more movement to it so it has a little bit more versatility in the styling of it. So, we're just continuing that straight back. I'll take a small piece as my guide from the previously cut section. Hold everything out at 90ish° and just go through and cut everything the head shape all the way down to the occipital bone which is that bump right in the middle of the back of the head. Now, once I hit the mastoid, I'm going to go anti- head shape. So, instead of going all the way in, I'm going all the way down and out. And you can see how that's not following the curvature of the head right through there. That's going to leave me a little bit more length at the very perimeter of the back, which is going to start to build up my kind of mullety shape. And also, when I go inverted like that, it helps the hair collapse a little bit more. The more of the head shape that it is, the more volume you get, the more anti- head shape, the less volume and the more the shape collapses. Now I'm going to take a parallel section to my first section and I'm going to hold those two pieces of hair together in the center of both of those sections. So I combine the first and the second section together. In the center of those two sections I hold it straight up 90° from the head. Following my previously cut guide, cutting all the way head shape from the front all the way into the back and just following that guide. Now, by point cutting, that's going to allow the individual pieces of hair at the tip to kind of clump together and make a little bit more of a point. Whereas, if I was to cut this completely blunt straight across, it's going to be a smoother texture. But by point cutting, it's going to force that texture to kind of separate and pop. And it's going to visually give me a little bit more interest when the hair falls. And I don't have to be as precise as if I was to cut this blunt. Blunt demands perfection when you're cutting it. When I'm point cutting it or I'm using the razor, I lighten up how perfect that it has to be. And by lightening it up, it gives me more opportunity for movement. Now, we're continuing to work this all the way back into the nape. Just following the previously cut guide, trying to not cut myself. There we go. Perfect. Work that all the way through. Leaving a little bit more length at the very perimeter in the nape. Continuing that all the way through and down. And just being patient as I'm going through and working my line. You know, when you're working on a mannequin head, they tend to be overly thick. So, sometimes I find myself getting impatient. And I have to force myself to slow down to follow the guide and not just kind of power through it. And that's easier to do on a mannequin head than it is on a client because the mannequins not going to complain. Right. So, now we're going to move on. I'm going to remove the center section, the very first guide that I had, and I'm going to add my third section that I'm cutting. So, I remove section number one, which was my original mohawk section. I have section number two and section number three, holding everything up into the center of both of those sections. So, I'm walking my guide. My guide started in the center of the head. And as I progress over towards the ears, it's going to change. I'm going to walk the guide. So, I'm not pulling everything into the center. I pull it to the center of the sections, but not the center of the head. So, that allows me to not build up such an increase of length as I work towards the perimeter on the sides. Continuing to follow that all the way down and through. There we go. Pretty good. Now, after I finish this section, I'm going to go in to take the rest of the hair on the side of the head. So, I'm going to take the entire side section, hold that up into my third section. So, I remove section two just like I removed the original mohawk section number one. And I'm going to pull everything up radially out around the ears and just cut anything that hangs over. Now I'm going to go back in and cut the sides, but I just want to make sure that none of the hair on the sides is going to overhang any of the hair on the top. So this is more or less me just making sure everything blends and I don't have anything hanging over if I go back and cut the sides and leave something a little bit longer. This is a good habit to get into to make sure everything fits. All these puzzle pieces that you're putting together, you want to make sure that they all fit together. And you don't want to leave anything that sticks out. Just continuing that all the way through radially around the ear until I run out of hair.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe button and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Addressing the Sides Once everything's finished on both sides, we're going to go through and separate the side of the head from the top. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-in scissor, and I like a longer blade when I'm going through and one working on thicker sections of hair and also point cutting. Now, I'm going to take a diagonal section on the side. I'm going to use my bang section, which was the shortest piece that I used as the guide for the layering, and I'm going to pull that forward and cut parallel to my parting to make sure that everything blends through. I want to keep these sides kind of shorter, and I want to keep the back a little bit longer. So, I'm going through and cutting that and seeing how it fits in. I think originally holding it straight down was probably a little too heavy. So, I want to lighten it up a little bit by elevating it a little bit. That's going to soften that line. And once I feel like I have that line fit in right around the jaw and a little longer than the ear, once I feel I got that fit in, I'll continue walking that guide back. So, just like I did on the top where I walk the guide from the center to the sides, now I'm going to walk my guide from the front to the back. So, I'll hold this out 90ish degrees, hold everything straight out, and then cut according to my initial guide and then I'll look at it. So, a lot of times when I'm working these shapes, I'm trying to determine the length that I want. And I don't know the exact length I want until I cut it and look at it. So I'll cut, I'll comb, look at it, see if it fits in. If I like the length or I think that that's a pretty good length or enough to start to build my shape from, then I'll move on. And as I finish each subsection, I'll pay attention to the end result and see if that's fitting in like I want. Now, I know I'm going to go back and texturize these sections of hair. So, when I texturize, it's going to feel a little bit shorter. So keeping that in mind as I go through and determine my lengths, the more I texturize it, the shorter it's going to feel from what it's already cut. Even though I don't cut any more of the length off, but just by applying that texture, it makes it feel airier, which is going to make it feel softer. Seeing how that fits in and blending that all the way through into the back center of the head or until I run out of hair. And here I've started to run out of hair from my layering that was happening on top. And I've got all that fit in. And I think that's looking fairly good. I may need to take a little bit more off when I texturize it, but we'll see when we get there.   Rounding and Blending So now I'm going to take the top section and the side section and where that little corner was created from me holding the top straight up and the side straight out. I'm going to go through and round that corner out. So this is a very round shape, but I want to break it down into sections. So I'm going to cut the top first. I'm going to cut the sides. And then I'm going to blend the two together by rounding the shape out. So I'll take my same diagonal section I was working with in the beginning. Hold that up. And here's a real good view. You can see that little corner popping out there. And I'm just going to blend everything through. I could go through and start my layering and round the layering through and out. But I don't know if that's going to be the right length on the side. So that's why I broke the top and the side into two pieces as opposed to just going through and doing a completely round layer because I don't know if I'm going to get the right length on the sides. That's more important to me than the length on the top. And I'll just continue to work this back as I take that corner out all the way from the front of the head into the back of the head. And just be diligent. Just practice and and be patient and apply the cut line as cleanly as you can. So even though I'm point cutting it, I still want to maintain a solid strong shape. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @JataiFeather. Whatever your favorite one is, we got it. Check it out.   After I finish that and I make sure it's done on the other side and I get both sides like I want, I'm going to go through and separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head and section it out like I did before just to keep everything nice and clean so I don't over texturize one area more than another.   Razor Texturizing I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in the white. And this is a bare blade. So, this gives me the most control over what I'm cutting and how much texturizing I actually apply. Now, this type of technique that I'm using here is kind of in between channel cutting and fillet cutting. So, this is uh the the razor is angled at a 45° against the head. So, it gives me a little bit of separation and a little bit of thinning. So I'll go through put some texture in it and then see how it looks. This would be the channel cutting where I go directly in and force separation. This would be filleting where I lay the blade flat against the head. This is in between where it's at a 45° angle. So I get a little bit of the channeling and a little bit of the of the filleting at the same time. So not only do I thin the piece out, but I also create a little bit of separation, but it's not a complete channel. I'll continue to work this all the way back. And I'm just going to go through and do this to every section of hair on the entire head. And I'm going to be as diligent as I can and apply it as judiciously as I can and try to get that texturizing real even all over. I'm going to pay attention to where the hair is a little thicker and I'll apply a little bit more. Where the hair is a little thinner, I'll apply a little bit less. And I'm just going to work all the way from front to back, every hair, every section, every piece on this entire head until I get everything texturized like I want. And I feel like it's fitting in pretty well. And I'll look at each section as soon as I finish cutting it and seeing if I need to add a little bit more. And I think that that texture is looking pretty good.   Razored Bangs Now, we're finishing up here with my last section on the top. And you can really go through and move fairly quickly once you get the methodology down. Now, we're going to start right here in the front. And I'm going to start fitting in our bang section. And I'm going to take a little piece right there in the front. Cut that really short right in the center. Using that as my guide for both sides. I'll comb this down. Pick up and use that short piece in the middle and angle that down at about a 45, maybe a 40, 39-1/2° angle. I just want to go shorter in the middle, really longer towards the edges and force that hair to move out of the face while being really really short in the middle and instantly building up length. Just being very, very patient, very methodical as I'm applying this because a razor can flat cut some hair off if you're not careful, which is great because it makes it easy to cut hair, easy to apply your shape, but you got to be respectful of it.   Modern Pixie Mullet with Fringe Final Look Now, we're gonna go through and blow it dry and check it out and see what we got. Here's our end result. And I I think we're looking pretty good. I really like this shape. It's a beauty. And I love this little short little piece that gets really long and you get these wolfish bangs. You get this kind of ear muff of hair covering the ears, but yet it can separate right over the ear and give you a little bit of exposure right on your neck. We got our little rock and roll mullet going on for such a classic smooth type of shape. And I think that this works really, really well on a lot of different hair types. Not only will it work on thick hair or thin hair, it will also work on wavy hair. I would probably not do this on the thickest of curly hair. I probably wouldn't do this on real curly hair anyway. In terms of look, it might get a little poodle-ish with a little bit of a mud flap in the back and that would not be cool. But I think this layered pixie mullet works really well. Give it a shot. Add it to your repertoire and I think it will expand your haircut opportunities for short hairstyles and pixie cuts. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.

This is a cute, fun graduated bob cut that's modern with a lot of movement. It's one of those short bob hairstyles that fit a person who has a similar personality. This short hair look has layers, volume and graduation all in one. With bangs that frame the face and a style that can be easily maintained, this graduated bob haircut is a good one to learn. Watch this short graduated bob cut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Graduated Bob Cut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a takeoff on the classic round graduation. But we're going to mix it up a little bit. We're going to be using a Feather Styling Razor. We're going to be using some Tokyo Thinning Scissors. We're even going to be doing some scissor over comb. So, I would call this more of a round-ish graduation. So, let's get started.   From the Sides to the Back So, we're starting here on the side. We're going to take a horizontal parting right above the ear. And that's going to go across the back. And then we're going to take the parting on both sides. Pin the other hair up and out of the way. I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor with the Standard Blade. And this is how I'm going to start the cut. I'm going to start here on the sides so that I can determine the length of my one length over the ears. I want to match both sides before I start my round graduation in the back. And I'm just taking a horizontal section and just cutting my line blunt. A little longer in the front, a little shorter in the back. Now, we're going to take a vertical section angled back. And I'm going to use that length that I cut right above the ear as my guide. And I'm going to angle that down, cutting it shorter at the nape. So, I'm actually graduating the shape, shorter at the nape, longer at the top of the ear. Now, I'm going to angle my parting. I'm going to pivot from where I started my parting and pivot that towards the center of the back. Following my previously cut guide, I'm going to continue to taper that in closer at the nape, a little longer at the top of the section there. Working everything straight back into the middle at an angle. You can see my angle developing there. Now, I'm going to pivot again. And with each pivot, that section gets more and more horizontal. So I start out with a very very vertical section and by the time I finish I'm going to go straight horizontal across the back. And this is going to give me that kind of round beveled graduation where it's shorter at the hairline right behind the ears and at the nape and a little longer in the center back right at the occipital bone. Now we're just going to pivot again. And each section gets a little bit more horizontal. And as I elevate, it's going to get a little bit higher. So I'm going with a very, very low elevation right behind the ear. And then as I work towards the back and as my parting pivots, my elevation gets a little bit higher. So, there's a little bit of a feel that goes into this because I have to visualize in my mind what I want my graduation to be and then lay that in. Now, if I'm using a scissor, it's easier to see the line develop than if I'm using a razor. But the advantage of the razor is it gives me a much softer line and it gives me more movement. I don't have to be as precise with the length, but I do have to be more precise when I lay that initial cut into it because it's hard for me to go back and fine-tune it and clean it up where the scissor is a lot easier.   Building the Graduated Hair Bob Shape After I cut it on both sides and I get everything matching, now I'm going to go through and take a horizontal section parallel to the first sections that I took. Now, this is going to help me start building my stronger bob-ish shape Because I'm using a razor, it's going to bevel it. It's not going to be a real hard edge bob, but I want it a little longer in the front and then just kind of even all the way around. Working from the ear all the way back into the center of the hair. Just using the underneath length as my guide as I'm working from the sides into the back. Now I'll follow with a parallel section and do the exact same kind of motion and methodology that I was doing before. I have a little bit of elevation here. So I soften up that line. A little longer in the front, a little shorter right at the ear. And then we're just going to go straight across the back and doing a horizontal cut so that I don't create any kind of pieciness or separation. I'm just creating softness in my cut line. And I'm just going to follow this right on through and be patient as I work these small sections. If you work with too big of a section with the razor, you're going to end up dulling the blade pretty quick and your line's not going to be nearly as precise as it needs to be for this type of haircut. Following with another horizontal section and following the previously cut guide. A little longer right at the front, a little shorter at the ear, and then work that all the way around.   Give us a thumbs up and click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. You can also leave a comment below, ask a question, and we'll get right back to you and try to answer it.   Now, I'm just going to continue following the same parting that I was doing at the initial section, my very first section. I'm just following that horizontally up until I start to run out of hair. Anything that hangs over, I'm just going to cut off. Now, since I'm cutting this fairly blunt, I want the elevation to bevel the line, but the razoring is going to give me a nice solid line. You'll see I'll take a nice short kind of stroke right through there. I'm not really filleting this by taking a large stroke and making it softer. The longer the stroke, the broader the stroke that you take, the softer that the line gets. Checking that out. And I think that that's looking pretty good. Now we got our last section on this side and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side once I finish this right side. Fine tuning there. I like that. And that's looking pretty good. Perfect. And I like that little bit longer in the front there as well. Now let's go through and cut a little bit of the bangs.   The Graduated Bob with Bangs Now, she already had a little bit of bang cut. So, I'm just going to go through and clean that up. Make it a little shorter over the right eye and a little longer towards the left eye. So, I'm just pulling everything right to that right eye. Taking my angle and then just cutting it short to long. Short at the eyeball, a little longer as it goes to the right. That's going to give me a little bit of movement. And if I need to soften this up later, I can certainly do that. But this gives me a nice moving shape to where it doesn't hang completely in the eyes without some sort of movement going back and forth. And since I'm cutting it shorter over the right eye of my model, it will actually move to its longest piece. So wherever it's short is where it moves from. Wherever it's long is where it moves to. So shorter over the eye, a little longer towards each side.   Scissor Over Comb Now I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is the 6-inch scissor. And I like to do, I like to use this scissor for scissor over comb because it's a nice long skinny blade and its got a good point. So I'm going to go through right here in the nape right at both tendons and taper that line in a little bit shorter. I want that to be very very clean right there at the corners and the tendons and a little longer towards the center. So, I'm just going to go through, take my time, scissor over comb, work that in. I'm not going to go through and recut everything underneath. I just want to cut right there at that hairline behind the ear and clean that line up so it's nice and strong and structured. And it makes that really pop. It makes the shape really pop. When you have a soft shape sitting on top of a harder shape, it really supports it and gives it a little juxtaposition and a contrast in textures. There we go. That's looking pretty good.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   I'll just keep working this until I get it in tight like I want. Now, when I'm doing something very, very detailed like this, I want to take my time and be patient and really exert the amount of energy and effort that this little section here really requires because it is almost the main focal point of this entire haircut, is the structured nape that gives me that kind of round graduation. And when I make it really clean right behind the ear, that really makes everything pop. So, I want to take time and make sure everything fits in just properly. Now, I'm just going to go through and just clean up a little bit right there in the middle. Anything that hangs over that's too long, I'm taking off. I'm not recutting the whole shape. I'm just taking any kind of long pieces that are softening that up and giving it a little bit more structure. Now, let's go through and blow dry and just get everything dry so I can see how much weight that I have because wet hair hides how dense the hair is and it hides how much texture that I have. You can use your hands or a round brush to shape it with the blow dryer.   Fine-Tuning the Graduated Layered Bob Now, I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. This to me is really the perfect thinning scissor. It removes the exact amount of weight that you need. I can go through and hit it several times and remove a lot of weight. I can go through and hit it once and remove a little weight. It's very very seamless. It doesn't give me like big chunky lines left over. Even though I'm going in straight horizontal and thinning this out from roots to ends, well, from mid-shaft to ends, it doesn't leave me any kind of lines. So, by going through and cutting it horizontal like I am to the head, it doesn't introduce any sort of movement to it. It just evenly thins out the hair. Now, I've been having some problems here holding the comb, so I like, oh, there we go again. I dropped it twice in the same haircut. There we go. And once I get everything fit in like I want and just pay attention to it and fine-tuning. Fine-tuning to me is the last 20% that can really make or break a haircut. Getting the basic shape in is easy. It's the fine-tuning that makes it the work of a master.     Final Look of the Graduated Bob Cut with Fringe Here is our end result. And I really like this shape. I think it is fun. It's cute. It's interesting. And for somebody with the right personality that demands something fun and inspiring and really kind of cute and kawaii ('cute' in Japanese). I think that this really opens up a whole new world of possibilities by combining the Styling Razor to create texture with a classic type of shape where it's normally very, very solid. This opens up a lot of different variations. So, I really encourage you to incorporate this, not only the shape, but also the technique of applying it and getting that soft texture to it into your repertoire. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time. A graduated bob can be done on straight, wavy or even curly hair. It can be done on thick hair. It can be made sleek or made voluminous. It can work with various face shapes such as square faces or round faces. Victoria Beckham made popular her bob looking haircut that's similar in style. Thanks for watching this short graduated haircut tutorial.  

In this layered graduated bob with fringe tutorial, Russell Mayes explores a popular older women's hairstyle that consists of layers, graduation and more layers. This layered bob haircut starts with an inverted bob followed by graduation and then more layering on top. The techniques discussed are great for removing bulk from thick short hair. Finally, bangs are added followed by some blending. Short bob haircuts have always been popular but modifying them based on hair texture and designing bob hairstyles to complement client face shapes, hair texture and density is always a challenge. Watch this short layered inverted bob with bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on how to add layering to graduation. How to keep the graduation from being too thick and overly mushroomy, how to keep it more modern. And it works really well on super thick hair or hair that's really stiff and needs a little bit of pop from some movement. We're going to show you how to add the graduation and where to add it. We're going to show you how to add layering, where to add it, and how to disconnect everything but still make it look like it's connected. So, let's get started.   Inverted Layers So, we're starting here in the nape. I took a center part all the way down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's my first flat section I'm working with in the back. I'm taking my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in version. I like the point on these scissors. And the blade is very, very sharp, but the point is not overly bitey, so I don't have to worry about poking myself if I'm doing a lot of um point cutting. Here, we're going to take a center section, and I'm going to determine if I want graduation or if I want layering. This first section, I'm actually going to invert the layering a little bit. So, it's going to be a little shorter at the occipital bone and then a little longer towards the hairline. So while this looks like it could be graduation based upon the head shape, it's actually layered quite a bit because it's shorter at the top of the section and longer at the bottom. So, by layering this first section, especially on these graduated type of shapes, this can make the shape instantly start getting very, very full and very bulky. Now, if I have someone with thinner hair, then that's definitely what I want. But on someone with thick hair or where it's very stiff and doesn't move, by going through and layering this first section, it helps it lay down a little bit closer against the head so I don't build up so much volume. I started in the center. I determined what type of layering I wanted and now I'm walking my guide towards the left and then towards the right. So the way I do that is I take the center as my guide, determine what my length is, and then add the next section to the left, a parallel section. I comb those two sections into the center and cut. And then I remove the previously cut section. And my new guide is the guide for the next section as I walk all the way over to the left. And now I'm going all the way over to the right. So it's just continuing to take the same length in the center and work that towards each side. I want to try to maintain as even of a balance as I can between both sides. Now, here you see me, I'm just going through and just cleaning it up, making sure it's nice and clean. After I finish that, I'll move on to the next section.   Graduation The next section is going up to two flat sections of the head and then to the top of the ear. Now, here you'll see the underneath completely drops out. And I'm going to completely ignore that guide and create a new guide. This is where the graduation of the haircut really starts to happen. So, whatever angle of graduation I create, you can see here which is fairly steep, that's going to be what the visual representation of my graduation is going to be. And you can see it's already, even though it's sitting on top of a layered section underneath, it still has that typical classic graduated shape, even though it's less voluminous because the underneath hair has been layered. I'll continue to just walk my guide from the center over to the right. And I'll check each time to make sure I'm building up a consistent flow of graduation from the center out. Try to maintain the same levels of elevation that I was going through and trying to maintain cutting directly on top of my previously cut guide as I start to work around the sides.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of any future Jatai Academy content.   Continuing to take my vertical sections as I walk around to the head. And here is a really good angle to see what type of graduation that I'm putting into it. And I'm just continuing to work this around. This is what you would consider classic round graduation because the shape is round vertically and horizontally. That looks pretty good. So now we're going to continue on to the next two flats up into the top of the crown. We're going to move that around to the front of the hairline at the bottom of the recession.   Layering Now, this section, you can see where my graduation is starting to fall out of my fingers. And then I'm going about a finger length further and cutting that straight up and down. So, by cutting that section straight up and down and leaving it a little longer, it really kind of exaggerates the graduated shape, but it doesn't add volume to it like if I was to continue to graduate this shape. So by pulling it up and cutting it straight up and down, I'm actually layering this top section. So I have layering for the first nape section. I graduate to center right at the curve of the head at the occipital bone and above to the drop crown. Now from the drop crown above, I'm pulling that up and layering it again. So I have layer, graduation and layer. So, it seems counterintuitive that I would want a graduated shape that has more layering in it than it has graduation. But because we put that graduation right in the center and sandwiched between those two layered sections, it really gives me a nice smooth graduated shape, but without that stiffness and that bulkiness that comes from that kind of brutalist aesthetic that Sassoon had back in the 70s that on certain types of hair, it was just very very stiff and had no movement to it. And if you didn't style it properly, it just looks completely out of sorts. By having this layering in it, it lightens it up and it loosens it up and gives it a lot more free flow. Here we've done both sides. And I think that that looks pretty good. It really collapses the nape there quite well and still gives me that nice graduated shape. Now we're going to go through and start working on the top.   Top Section I'm going to take a center section from the back all the way to the front. I'm going to pull the crown up. I'm going to take that guide that I had cut underneath from my layering section. And now I'm going to continue vertically layering this at 90° all the way from the back into the front. This is just going to remove a lot of excess length that I don't need. I'll hold this straight up at 90 from each section of the head as I'm working from back to front. Now, this shape gives me a lot of versatility and a lot of variations that I can layer into this and add into this shape because everything is kind of disconnected and I'm not building up this architecturally over structured shape that doesn't allow for any kind of variation. This shape, because there's so much disconnection in it, gives me that option. Now, instead of taking sub-sections and holding everything up into the center where my layering guide was initially, I'm going to take the entire right side of this head because there's no hair from the underneath. I'm going to pull everything straight up into the center and cut that.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to pull everything over into the center until I completely run out of hair. Once I finish my layering here on the top, I'm going to go through and anything that hangs over from this top layering hangs over the underneath section that I've already cut. I'm going to go through and double check here and make sure that it doesn't hang over. So, I'm just going to clean this up. There's a little bit of hair that hangs over. So, I'm just going to go through and vertically section like I did my layering underneath in the third section that I took. And make sure nothing hangs over that so we have a cleaner shape. I could have done this first and then layered it, but I find that I would end up taking more time cutting the hair on top that I end up cutting shorter anyway. So, this way I'll end up cutting less hair, making sure it blends.   The Fringe Now, we're going to go through and take our bang section. We're going to take a pretty good section to the corner of the hairline right there at the recession. And then I'm going to subsection that into a small little section that goes right to the corner of the eye on each side. This is the hair that's going to hang right in the center of the face. Going to create a straight bang here, but curtain bangs or side swept bangs work well too. I'm going to hold that down and cut that to where it hits right at the center of the eye. This is a very popular aesthetic in Japan where it's like right at the most irritating length at the eyeball. Now I'm going to hold this section up and then layer that section just to bevel that edge right there around the face a little bit. So it keeps it blunt but it bevels that edge so it softens it up just a little bit but still maintains that real solid shape. Now we're going to take the rest of the section, hold it down, and I'm going to determine the length that I'm going to right there at the jaw. Cut a little bit right there so I have a guide, and then I can match that on the other side. So, I'll figure out where it is on the other side. Make sure I'll double check and then go through and cut it shorter than the other side. Oh well, we'll figure it out.   Blending Now, I'm going to comb this forward, take the center out of it, and then connect the guides that I've created. I've got the shorter guide in the center that I've created going to that longer guide right at the edge. And that's going to give me a nice really steep line that's going to brush that bang out of the face a little bit. Now, we're going to go through and take a real vertical section here, right above the ear. Hold that down. And I'm going to look at where my little graduated short length bob was starting in the back. Hold this section straight down and then visualize where I want that to go. Now, this is the part here that can really make the shape a little more conservative or a little bit more edgy and soft. I'm going for a little more blunt of a shape, but you could certainly, you know, go through and make sure that this is a lot longer and piecier and a little bit more um, you know, Korean in its aesthetic, I think. So, now we're going to take the next section down, comb that straight down, point cut that through to make sure that my edge is soft right through there, so I have a little bit more flow And I'm not being real precise with this section. I'm allowing the shape to have some movement to it and some softness and some flow to it. Everything has been real structured in this with blunt lines that I've cut. So right here around the edge where I want a little bit more exaggerated movement, I'm going to go through and soften that up by point cutting it. Now we take our last section and you see that little corner that just hangs out there between the back and into the sides and I'll cut that through so we make sure we have a nice smooth blend from our graduation to the back into the sides.   Texturing and Removing Weight Now I'm going to take my Feather Styling Razor and I have the pink version. And then I'm going to add the Texturizing Blade. So this blade has little guards that cover every other section of the blade so that as I run this across the hair, it doesn't cut everything straight across. It gives me little channels so I can add some texture to it and remove a little bit of weight. You may not need to do this part if working on fine hair. So I make this softer without necessarily going through and adding deep channels to it like I would if I was to hold this section vertically and cut into it with my regular styling blade. So, after I finish doing some sculpture cutting in the back, I'm going to take each section horizontally and just add a little bit of texture to it just to create some more internal variation and to give me a little bit more softening and some interest to it. Now, depending upon the hair, I may do a little bit more, I may do a little bit less. But because I've cut this shape very very blunt except for that little bit right in front of the ear. This gives me a still solid shape but softens it up internally and gives me a little bit more visual interest. I'm really liking the texture that we have there. I think that looks pretty good. Now we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it. I'm going to use my Du-Boa High-Tech Brush to polish everything off and then a little bit of styling wax after. You can also use a round brush to style it.   Final Look Well, here is our end result. And I think that we got a really, really nice shape. I think that by going through putting our layering first, our graduation second, then layering on top, it really gives us a nice graduated shape without it being too mushroomy or too stiff or without it looking like, you know, grandma's graduation. This haircut doesn't have to look like a women over 60s haircut. It keeps it more modern. And and let's face it, most modern haircuts have a lot more texture to it than the the stuff from the 60s and 70s that were just overly stiff. So, I think that this works really really well. I like this kind of heavy bang that hits right in the eye and kind of blends into the side. And I think we've got just the right amount of texture to where the bottom lays flat, but we still have a nice little pop here for our graduation. It kind of makes it look like a shaggy bob. This kind of bob works well on straight hair, but can be adapted to wavy hair or curly hair. You can also add a pop of hair color or highlights for additional points of interest. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement. For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary. We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob. We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob. There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started. So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of. Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.   Establishing the One Length Structure Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client. Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke. Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible. Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement. The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good. Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide. Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky. And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful. So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line. There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section. I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line. Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt. Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape. So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape. The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer. So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath. Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut. After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around. So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.   Vertical Sectioning So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off. Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall. If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down. Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.   Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing. And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated. Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility. So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

Choppy short layered hair is popular hairstyle among older women but it can be modernized for younger looks. Short layered haircuts are not necessarily easy to do. Choppy layers can tend to look lumpy if done improperly and can really stand out if done on thick hair. Short choppy haircuts are a type of layered bob that's textured. While not a pixie cut, they are short hairstyles that have a lot of style and can compliment the face nicely. Watch this short choppy layered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. You've seen a choppy bob. Well, we're going to do some chop graduation today. Chop graduation is a little more difficult because you have to worry about the graduation starting to look lumpy. And lumpy graduation always looks bad. So, we have to apply the right amount of texture in the right way. Section it so that we can avoid that. We're going to show you how to do all that as we get started and I'm going to blow it dry without using my hands at all. Only the power of the blow dryer.   Back of the Head So, let's get started here in the nape. We're going to take a section across and split the top from the bottom. Then, in the center, we're going to take a diagonal section. And I'm going to hold my scissors out behind on top of my fingers and just go through and cut whatever angle of graduation that I want. Using that as my guide, I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor, which is a razor without a guard. It gives me the most control and has the sharpest blade. This is the limited edition white. And so get them while you can. So I'll start and follow the guide that I did in the center with the scissor. And I'm going to alternate scissor and then razor. So this section here, I'm pulling out the same angle of elevation, following the same angle of graduation. And I'm gonna go through and just chop that line in with my scissors to get my graduation into it. Now, I'm not trying to be real precise with this. Each section that I take, I'm going to alternate. So, this section, I'm going to follow the guide and use my razor to go through and chop the section. So, each section is going to fluctuate between more texture and softness and more texture and structure. This is my Tokyo Scissor from Jatai. It is the longest blade I have at 6 inches. It has a nice point. It's very sharp. And I like the longer blade for doing this technique because on the opposite side, it makes it much easier to cut on top of my fingers like I'm doing now. Here, I'm going through and using my Feather Plier Razor to go through and put my chop graduation in. Now, typical, you know, school of thought is that if I do this, it's going to be really, really lumpy and look really, really bad. But because I'm taking very, very thin sections and I'm elevating it at a higher level of graduation, it makes a much smoother blend. So, I can get that texture from chopping into it without it being very, very lumpy. Now, on the other side, you can see why I like a longer scissor. It makes it so much easier to cut on top of my fingers to make my choppy graduation blend at the same angles. And that I'm cutting from the top down. I'll do the razor exactly the same on the other side, just keeping my choppiness as even and as consistent as possible. After I finish the underneath, we're going to move on to the top of the head. I'm going to start at the same angle for my partings and I'm going to try to elevate at the exact same angle that I did underneath using my razor following the same method of keeping a short little choppy stroke so I can start to build the weight of the graduation without too much weight that I start to create lumpiness here. Going in with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor and going through and putting a little choppy graduation into it as I work from top down. And each section that I cut, I want to comb it and see how the weight distribution is and make sure that my graduation is consistent because this is purely a visual type of haircut. Though I'm sectioning it technically and I'm elevating it technically, my cut is purely visual. So, I have to check it a lot along the way to make sure that I can get both sides even and that I get a consistent type of graduation because it's real easy to get this really really inconsistent and then it starts to look bad.   Sides of the Head Working from the back of the head into the side of the head and I will just follow and build each section coming from the back into the sides. Now, you'll notice that when you're doing short graduation like this, it's going to start to stack up in the nape. And then as I get to the edges around the ears, it's going to start to build up a little bit more weight. So, that's where I'm getting that bob shape from on the sides. Following through, not trying to be real precise, just trying to be real consistent. And this is one of those haircuts you just have to build it and look at it each step of the way.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Still alternating between the razor and the straight scissor just to get a variation in my texture. When I did this type of shape with a bob, it's a lot easier because you don't have to worry about the weight distribution and you don't have to worry about the blend as much because when you're dealing with one length, once you get that shape in on the bottom, you don't have to worry about seeing the choppiness of it other than it flicking out the separation on the bottom. So here, just being patient, working from back to front and trying to build my shape visually. If I need to fine-tune it, I'll fine-tune it. Like that little piece, I thought maybe it was a little heavy, but we'll see. I may fine-tune that a little bit more as we go. Pulling out. Following my guide from underneath. Keeping my scissor and my razor stroke as consistent as possible. There we go. And I like where that's starting to hit on the jawline. Now, from here, I got my last section. I'll take a little bit of the previously cut hair as my guide as I start to work into the sides. I want to make sure that as I start to apply each new cut that I'm using the guide and not recutting into the guide. That's a difficult thing. So, it's okay to not be exactly on top of your guide as you're working this shape. That's why every time I finish a section, I want to comb it and see how it fits. Now, we're going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to make sure that the blade of my razor slides through the hair a lot easier and gives me a very, very consistent result. And I'll use it mostly when I'm doing internal texturing with the razor.   Removing Weight And I'm going to go through, pull out each section, and with my Feather Plier Razor, just go through and as delicately as possible, go through and channel cut to remove some of the weight because these mannequin heads have a lot of weight. I want to maintain that corner in the front. That's why I keep pulling that out and showing that corner. I don't really texturize that much or remove that much weight. I want to keep that solid. Here's a good angle to see how I'm trying to apply this texturizing very very finely and judiciously so I can remove weight more than creating separation. You'll notice that I tend to close the blade in between taking sections and that just gives me a little extra protection and make sure that I'm respecting the blade so I don't cut myself. And just continue to work up until I run out of hair.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And here, I'll just continue to visually remove as much weight as I feel needs to, to help that hair kind of lay down and not get too puffy and bell-like in its shape. I think that when it gets too bell-like, it tends to look a little dated, even though this haircut has a lot of modern texture to it.   Blowdrying Now, when I go to blow this dry, I first started just using the blow dryer to go through and start getting some aeration in it and getting some volume to it. And I think it started to look really good. So, I just used the blow dryer and that's all. I didn't use my fingers to stretch it out. I didn't do anything other than on the bangs. I kind of blew the bangs down with a little bit of a brush to make sure that they're smooth. But everything else is just using that blow dryer to get volume and allow the hair to naturally separate and get the texture that I've built into it by applying the structure of the haircut. Then just a little finger styling to make sure that everything pops and it shows the texture like we want and that I don't have anything that I need to fine-tune.   Final Look All right, here's our end result. And I think that uh I think that that looks pretty good for not using my hands and it blowing it dry and just letting the blow dryer do the work. And I think it really shows off, you know, kind of this choppy graduation cuz the fear you got to get over is doing a graduation that looks lumpy. I want it choppy and piecy and have a lot of separation, but I don't want to look lumpy and poorly done. That's going to come from how we angle our fingers and how we consistently apply our scissor layer with our razor layer and then fine-tuning it at the end. And I think we look pretty good. I think this is a nice interesting way to get some texture and a little more fullness and have a little bit more pizzazz to it, so to speak. Anyway, check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Short choppy hairstyles are haircuts women gravitate to when it comes to short hair. While choppy short layers are popular with women over 50, they can be modernized for younger looks.   

In this short bob undercut style, Russell takes a look at a modified bob haircut that utilizes an undercut to remove weight and prevent a mushroom shape. This is not a shaved undercut bob but rather a subtle, soft undercut that leaves a classic hairstyle look. The undercut bob haircut works great on thick hair to reduce volume. Bob haircuts will always be in popular style. Watch this short bob undercut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Bob Undercut:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Do you have problems with short bobs getting real bulky and looking too mushroomy? Well, we're going to show you how to fix that today. Very easy with some undercutting and some texturizing and a little bit of razor work. And you'll be amazed at the results that you can get. So, let's get started. To preface this whole thing here, when you're doing a short bob, it can get very, very thick very, very quick. We're going to go through and we're going to undercut the shape, but we're going to undercut it in a specific way where we're not necessarily skinning it and making it very, very edgy. We're just going to take all the weight out from underneath and it's still going to bevel through and blend in the back. So, I think that that's very important for this sort of shape even though we're going to disconnect it and we're still going to maintain a nice clean bob line. All right, so first let's get with sectioning. Here we go. All right, so the first thing I want to do is go through and separate the top from the bottom. So, I can take it as high as the center of the recession or I can take it anywhere lower from there. So, I'm going to go a little lower than that. So, I still maintain a real strong bob shape, but I start to take this hair out. That's just going to make it bulky. So, we're going to go to the quarter part. From the quarter part down to the occipital bone. Then I'm going to take it right across straight across the back.   Creating the Bob with Undercut to Remove Bulk So after I feel like I've got this balanced like I want and I have enough that I feel I can remove enough bulk to keep my bob from being too bulbous, I'm going to go through and take my Jatai Osaka Scissor. Now this is a 6-in scissor that has a nice strong solid blade, so I can take and cut a large section of hair easily. and it's nice and sharp. So, I'll go through the entire section without any kind of resistance. So, from there, I'm going to take hold this section. Take each section. I'm going to comb everything straight up. And I'm going to lay my finger right at the parting. Pull this straight up. Cut that straight across. So, what that's going to do is that's going to cut the top of the section a lot shorter than the underneath so that when it falls, it's going to fall and collapse that shape really close to the head and remove a lot of that bulk. Start here on the sides. Comb that section straight up to the parting. Cut that straight across. And just do that all the way from the front into the nape. I don't have to be real precise about this. I'm just going through cutting the length off. Oops. And since I'm holding it so high up at such extreme elevation, it's going to take all the weight out of this section and leave me just enough hair around the edges that I can start to fit in. So after I've got that finished, I'm going to go through and start fine-tuning this in all around the edges. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in white, no guard. And I'm gonna go through and just visually take a little piece of hair, a little vertical section, go through real gently, lay this flat across my section, and start to fit that in closely against the head. I can go through and start really fine-tuning this shape and take some of that length out and make it fit in a little bit nicer around the edges. And I'm just going through this is called filleting. So I'm just going to fillet this section off to get some of that really long hair out of the way. Going through here real gently taking some of that out. My whole idea is just to remove the weight and remove the excess length that I don't need underneath. That tends to make everything really blocky. Very easy to go through and cut all this length off and take that weight out and still have a nice soft underneath shape. Now, before I move on to the top, if I feel like this underneath with this length that I've cut is too much, if it if it still feels like it's going to be too thick and make my bob kind of pop out and get kind of lumpy, then I can go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai and remove some more weight. And the way I would do that is just take the comb, scissor over comb, and I would do it really deep and just walk that all the way up because really all I have to thin is the middle of that section. I don't have to thin the whole thing even though I'm going to. And this will take this will take any of the remaining weight that I have that I don't want out of it. I feel like the Tokyo Thinning Scissor takes the right amount of weight that I can go through and do this very very deep without fear that it's going to come back and bite me because it took too much hair out in one shot. I can hit it multiple times to take more hair out, but I don't have to. We've got all this underneath hair taken care of, and now we can go ahead and start working on our bob.   Creating the Bob All right. So, I've got my natural part, which is a little off center, and I'm going straight back down and halving the head, and then one flat section above where the occipital bone is diagonally towards the ear. And this is going to be the start of my little bob. So, I'm just going to take a center section. And here, I'm going to look at the side of her head and see where that's going to go. So, I'm going to go fairly short here and just cut that straight across. Check my line. See if my length there will be short enough and how it's going to build up there. And I think that's going to be fine. So now I'll start using that as my guide, angling it towards the chin and just start at the innermost part and cut towards the face. Do the same thing on the other side. See where that's going to go towards the jaw. Since I don't have a line underneath, I only have this line here and my length there. Start cutting from the center going towards the face. Check my lengths. See if they're building up similarly. And they're looking pretty good. That's pretty nice. And I'm liking the way that this hair in the back is really kind of stacking in and fitting in underneath the weight of the bob that I'm starting to build up. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section right there. Here's my next section. I'm going to hold it out at elevation. There's my guide from underneath. And then we're going to lay that flat horizontally right across that. Cut my one length and start to build up some weight. Here this comes. I'm starting to build up towards the front using my guide from underneath and the guide in the center and building up the shape that I want to flow towards the shape up towards the face. Parallel sections as I start to work towards the front. Starting in the middle, seeing my guide length from underneath. Combing clean from the roots all the way down. There's my guide length. Get that out of there.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I'm just going to continue with this until I get to the last section. Now, we're working here into our last section on each side. And we can comb that down. And we can start to see a nice little bob shape developing up. And the whole idea behind this this haircut is to give me a bob shape without it having that really mushroomy type of bob because if she has thick hair and you're doing something short, you have to undercut it and you have to start relieving some of that weight from building up and looking very mushroomy. So, by going through and undercutting it and then going through and cutting my bob shape with the razor, that certainly helps alleviate some of that bulk and some of that that mass that starts to develop. Even though I'm holding this down and still cutting it exactly like I would cut a one- length bob, but I'm loosening up from the technique and allowing it to develop visually as opposed to going through and trying to build it very structurally and very geometrically. Now, we're going to go through and blow dry, and I'm going to see what we have. And I'm gonna see how we need to taper this in and fine-tune this in the nape to make sure everything pops just right.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now to go through and remove some of this kind of 70s bevel that we have to it, I'm going to take a vertical section, hold that straight out from the head. Take my thinning scissor and go through and vertically thin some of this hair out so it helps the shape collapse a little bit more. We're going to check that. That looks better. And then let's continue that on as I work around and get to the mastoid bone. Nice short little bob undercut to relieve some of that heavy heavy mushroomy weight that we usually get. And I like that right there. That's looking pretty good. Not bad.   Short Bob Undercut Final Look   Here's our end result. We got a nice little blend back in here, even though we did completely disconnect it and undercut it. And we got a nice little bevel to our bob, even though it still maintains a real solid shape right at the jawline. So, this is a very good technique to add to your repertoire in case you have someone with very, very thick, stiff hair that you can get some of that weight out. Now, you don't have to do as much as I did or you can do more. It's very versatile shape and it works on all different types of textures. Maybe if the hair is real fine, maybe I wouldn't do it because you want to build up as much weight as you can to get a real solid bob shape. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

Let's explore a Brad Pitt hairstyle. But which one? The famous actor has had many hairstyles over the years and has sported distinct styles in movies like Fight Club, Fury, Mr. and Mrs. Smith and Inglorious Bastards. His red carpet looks from his days with Jennifer Aniston and Angelina Jolie have always been of interest to fashion gurus. And his hair is versatile making him a great candidate for a variety of looks. In this tutorial, we dissect the Brad Pitt haircut from Seven, a 90s oldie but goodie. Follow along with the video below and follow along with the transcript.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of Brad Pitt's short haircut that he had in the movie Se7en. It was one of my favorite looks that he had because it wasn't a real polished look. It was a little more lived in, a little more raw. So we're going to study how to get that raw look but still have it look like it is a complete and well done haircut. So let's get started. So in the movie Se7en Brad Pitt plays this young rookie detective and he's teamed up with this veteran, you know, detective to show him the ropes. So you can kind of see in his character that he's young, he's new to the job, he's new to the gig, he's learning how to do everything. And that's reflected in his style as well. He's not real polished in his clothes. They're like they fit but they're not real expensive and also you can see that especially in his hair because his hair is this young raw kind of cheap rookie detective haircut. It's not real polished. It's not real clean. It's literally the opposite of Miami Vice that was glitz and glam and perfection. And now you're seeing Brad Pitt who's usually impeccably dressed with perfect hair, because the dude has great hair. In this movie, his hair is a little lumpy. It's a little raw. It's a little disheveled. It's not polished. So I'm going to try to repeat that basic shape and keep that rawness to it without it looking like it's a cheap terrible haircut. To get started I'm going to go through and separate the top from the bottom. We're going to take a recession...center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part's going to go down to the drop crown which is between the occipital bone and the crown. It's that little bump right in the middle. That is basically the parietal ridge that I'm separating the top from the bottom from.   Scissor Over Comb Now that I've got the top separated from the bottom, I'm going to go through and do some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor with a nice even blade all the way through. It's not a real heavy blade so it doesn't tire out my hand by doing a lot of repetitive motion, but it still has a nice sharp blade and a good clean point to it. So we're going to start here on the side and in the movie I noticed that his hair was tapered closer here in the front and it was a little longer in the back. So that's what we're going to do. I'm going to angle my comb here. I'm going to start real low and just crudely go through scissor over comb. I'm not taking a whole lot of strokes just yet. I just want to go through and get my lengths proper to where I think that they should be. This is still going to be a little tapered. So we're going to go through and feel it out and get everything where I think that should be. And I think that that's probably a pretty good length. I'll probably take that a little shorter right through there and then I will continue to work this back. After I've got to the mastoid I'm going to go to the back of the head, the nape of the head, and I'm going to start here at the bottom. I'm going to leave a little bit more length than I did on the side and taper that up. It's not a real steep taper but it's still tapered a little bit nonetheless. Now once I come to the point where the mastoid is, I was cutting the side going up, I was cutting the back going up but because of the way that the angles are on the parietal ridge now I'm going to come in at an angle like this and work that up and out and through. So I'm working my tapering parallel to my parting. Okay now I'm going to go through and separate in the back. I'm going to take from the crown to the high point of the ear and separate the front from the back. And I'll go through and take a center section and I want to continue the angle of tapering that I've already started from underneath as I get longer towards the crown.   Blending the Sides and Back So I'll take this section right in the back in the middle using my wood-look Feather Styling Razor limited edition, by the way. This gives me enough texture to keep everything soft and allow me to fine-tune it here later on. But it also can go through and cut a nice clean shape. I'm going to pull that out. There's my length from underneath. Go through and continue that angle straight up. I'm not worried about this length being right because I'll cut that with the top. All I'm looking for now is to blend this into the back. I will pivot from the crown. There's my pivot angle. I'll pull this out from the head at 90. There's my line from underneath and my previously cut guide. I'll go through take that length off and make sure that we have a nice little blend through there. Pivot again as I start to work towards the side. Remove the center section. Now I only have my second and third section. Going to pull this straight out from the head. There is my line from underneath. Going to take that out, remove my second section. Now I have my third and my fourth on this side. There's my length from underneath. We're going to go through blend that through. Now let's go through and work on making sure that the sides blend. I'm going to go through and take a parallel section to my previously cut section which was halving the parietal ridge. We have this length here so I'm going to pull this straight out from the head using my razor. There's my length underneath and cut this using that length as my guide from the front all the way to the back.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @JataiFeather   Next section. And I'm gonna keep going through and following this methodology until I get to the center of the head and then I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side. We've got everything blended through with our sides and the back and I think that we don't have to worry about any hair hanging over that looks funky but the top is still too long for the shape.   Blending the Top So what I want to do is go through and cut the top, but I want to cut it as inconsistent as possible without being completely out of shape so what I'm going to try to do is just use my fingers to put in, pick up and then cut anything that hangs out over my fingers off. Lift this up, put my fingers in, try to find that length that I want and then go through using my Feather Styling Razor and just start cutting anything that hangs out over my fingers off. This is going to be very crude and very raw. And I may have to go through and do it a couple of times. But this is how I'm going to start getting that really crude shape on top and I'm not trying to cut everything at one time. This starts to give me my guide length and now as I start to look at that front, that's looking more like the photo. He's looking like a detective more and more. Another way that I can go through and cut this, pull back. There's my length. I'm going to lay my finger against the flat part of the blade and anything that's really long I'll just push into the blade and cut that off. After we got the front, I'm going to go through and take a little more here. Hold this up in my fingers. There's my guide from the front and then we're just going to go through take this off. I would probably use the regular blade as opposed to the R-Type Blade to give myself a little bit more protection. And I'm not jamming this into my hand. I'm just running it across the top of my fingers. So it's starting to crudely cut the shape, but not real cleanly. So take your time and be patient. It's a technique that requires a little bit of patience. So let's work this a little bit more internally and take some more of this weight out in the crown. So I'll pull out, go through, channel cut some of that because I want some weight removal and some separation. Continue to go through and channel some of this out until I feel like I got the weight and the length like I want here in the crown.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I think that's looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry and see if I need to do any texturizing on the top. I like the length that we got on the front. I think that that's looking you know pretty good through there. I like the length on the sides and the back down through here but we need to take a little bit more out through the ridge here because this shape is a little beveled and rounded off.   Thinning & Removing Length So I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. Now this is a nice clean middle of the road thinning scissor to take out some weight. The more times that I hit it, it will start to remove more length so I'm going to go through and thin this ridge out a little through here and I'm going to thin it a lot but I'm going to thin it on the end so I can take some of that length out and bevel the shape a little bit. So we're going to start low here. Make sure that my straight blade is on the bottom. Start at the bottom. Get the motor running and then go through and work that up and bevel my shape a little bit. The more that I do this, the cleaner that the shape is going to be. Now you don't want to necessarily go through and give a really really crude haircut on your client but you still want to keep that kind of rough and raw texture to it. So there's a fine line that I'm walking here between how much of this shape can I make it crude and how much of it needs to be clean and presentable and even. There we go. We're going to take some of that out through there. I like that better. Take a little bit of clay.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle from Se7en End Result Alright, here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think we got the texture right. I think the lengths are pretty good and it still has that kind of rawness to it that I think he had in the movie and so I'm pretty content with this. I'm pretty happy with that. When you're going to do the razor texturing on the top like I did where you're going across your fingers, make sure you turn the blade away from you as you're going across. If the hair is real thick it doesn't work too well. So just take a mohawk section and pinch it off like the other technique that I showed you if the hair is really really thick. That works just as well and it will give you a very very similar shape. I think you're looking pretty good. You're ready to go catch some criminals, but don't look in the box. Don't look in the box. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial

The men's French crop cut hairstyle is known for its short sides and cropped textured top with a short fringe. The sides can have a high or low fade or taper and the top works well with thick hair and even curly hair. A blunt fringe or textured fringe give a distinct look. The French crop haircut is a great style to learn how to cut. Watch the crop hairstyle tutorial below and follow along with the transcript.   Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a practice on the French crop. The French crop taper fade is very very popular. It's very versatile. You can use it on a lot of different textures and a lot of different types but there are some fundamental skills that you really need to hone in and practice and get good at in order to deliver a very very good French crop. So let's study that. Let's get started. To get started what we've done is we've taken the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part down and curved that around into the back so that we have half of the parietal ridge sitting up top, half of it sitting on the bottom.   Tapering and Fading with a Clipper So I'm going to start and just remove some hair. So I just want to get most of this hair out of the way before I start worrying about my taper. So I'm gonna use a number three guard on my clipper and then just go straight up and take all of this hair off. Now as I start to go, sometimes this hair gets pushed up and out of the way. So if I just grab it and pull it into the teeth it makes it easier for me to get all this off. Now whenever I'm doing some short hair like this I don't want to go through and necessarily cut everything in my fingers first and then go through and cut it shorter with scissor over comb or clipper over comb or whatever that may be. Sometimes I just need to remove some hair so I can start whittling my shape in. So now that I've got my overall length cut off and I've established my length that I'm cutting to here at the top, I can go through and approach my taper in one of two different ways. I can skin the bottom up to where I want the skin part to be and then fade from short into long or I can work from long to short. It's really a personal preference on what style works best for you. I find personally if I'm doing something really high, like a French crop high fade, like I'm skinning it up really high, then I'd prefer to skin it first and then work out my line. If I'm keeping the taper lower and the skin fade very low, then I'll go from long to short. So let's go from long to short for a French crop low fade. So I had a three. Now I'm going to go down to a number two and I'll go up about a finger length away and as I start to run up the head I want to rock the clipper away from the head. That's going to allow me to cut this hair underneath short and then as I rock it out it allows me to blend into that longer length. So I finished with my number two. I got everything done like I want. I can look at it from a profile and see that it tapers quite nicely. Now I'm going to go down to a 1-1/2. And on the one and a half I'm going to do the same methodology that I was doing before where I'm not going up as high as the last one and as I get closer to where I want it to start to fade, I start rocking the clipper away from the head. So it's this type of arching motion that's coming from your wrist. I finished my one and a half so you notice that the steps went from three to two to one and a half. Now I'm going to a one. So as I get shorter the steps become smaller because you notice the difference much more as the hair gets shorter and you see more skin sticking out. Now we got a number one. Going to do the same thing. Start low where I stopped before. Run up to that point. Arc the clipper to start working on my blend. Now we're to our 1/2 so I run a 1/2 right at where I want my shortest bit. And then I open the blade a little bit and I start using my arcing motion of my wrist to help the clipper go through and blend that through as best I can. Now I'll take the clipper itself with no guard and just here on the very bottom take all of that little residual hair off. That's not looking too bad.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   So I've gone through and finished my tapering. Now I've gone and washed the hair because the clipper cuts better on dry hair and I can see everything a little bit better on dry whereas the scissors and razor cut better on wet hair.   Cutting the Top Back with Scissors So I've gone and shampooed. Now I've sectioned off from the high point of the head over to the top of the ear and I have the whole back of the head. I want to make sure that this blends well with the underneath without them getting a flat head. So I'll start right in the middle and I will take a parallel section. Now I'm going to separate this according to where the crown is. I'm going to hold this hair at this elevation because I want to make sure I continue this angle of graduation so it prevents me from getting a flat head. So I'll hold that straight out, plant my fingers, there's my guide I'm cutting from. Now I'm going to pull that out and continue that angle that I had there. Take that a little shorter through there by building up a little bit more length in the crown when the hair falls. It's going to continue this natural fall of head shape. So now from here after I've got that length going up from there, I'll use that as my length and follow the head shape from there forward. Oops! Once we got that through now that should be a nice curved shape blending right into my longest part of my taper underneath. I will go through, I will pivot the section from the center, get this other hair out of the way and continue to work that around into the sides. Now I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor this is a 6 inch scissor. It's got a nice little point on it and it gives me enough scissor length that I can really work in larger thicker sections of hair. And it's also good if I need to do some scissor over comb type of blending. Continue up the head working to the center top of the head. One more pivot. Pin this hair out of the way. Take my previous section, hold that out. There's my line from underneath. Follow my tapering angle and then start to head shape the rest of the cut so I continue this nice smooth bevel. I would rather have too much hair through here than not enough because I can always take it down. If I end up with not enough hair, then I end up with a flat head. Fine-tune this a little bit with some scissor over comb, just trying to get a rough shape into it. Get my lengths even. Get everything blended in the back. There we go. Now I'll go through, separate my center section again. This was the original section that I cut and I'm going to go through do the same thing on the other side.   Cutting the Top with Scissors After I finish the back I'm going to go through and take a center section right down the top of the middle and here I know that my bangs are already here. I can go shorter than that or longer. I'm going to leave that about that length so I'm going to go through and cut from this length to this length, going from back to front. Now I like to cut from the shortest part to the longer part. So I'm going to turn to the other side, pick this straight up. There's my short part and cut from longer. I'm sorry from shorter to longer. Holding this straight up into the center of the section straight up towards the ceiling to this length right in the front, comb that forward. Check the lengths out. Think that's okay cuz I can cut this a little bit more in the front. All right, so once we've got that we're going to go through and take a parallel section. I have my center section and my first section that I'm adding to. I will comb those two into the center of both of those sections, cut that going from back to front, from shorter to longer. Get that done. Okay very good. Now I will remove my first section, my first guide that I cut. I'm going to go through and remove that. I no longer need it. I have a new guide now. I'll take my next section and do exactly the same thing, work from short in the back to long in the front.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. I will remove my second section. So now I have the third section and the last section on this side. I'll comb that straight up. There's my guide from the back. There we go. Cut that shorter to longer than the front. Now I'll go back, find my very first section that I took right here into the center, pin this other hair out of the way so I don't get confused. I will add my next section on the opposite side and go through and do exactly the same thing that I did on the right side. Now I'll go through and do that on the left using my center guide to walk my guide all the way to their left side.   Blending and Sculpting So to work on my blend, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is a wood grain so it's a wood look finish and I really like it. I think it looks very cool. You can also use all three different types of blades on it: the Texturizing, the Standard or the R-Type. I am using the R-Type Blade so I get a little bit more blade exposed so I can cut a little cleaner. So from here we're going to hold this straight out. There's my line in the back and I'll just start razoring from short to long in the front just like I was doing on the top. I want to do this little bit right here on the sides to make sure everything blends through. There pull my next section. I will probably not have a whole lot of hair reach and I don't so we'll take a little bit of that off right through there. That's looking pretty good. A little sculpture cutting right through there to make sure I take some of the weight out and have a nice blend. When I do this it's a very gentle laying of the razor on the surface of the hair to remove some weight from it, remove some solidity and I think that that's looking like a pretty good blend through there. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side from here. Okay that's looking pretty good. I want to go through and just clean this line up here in the front, not a lot but just clean that up a little bit. Take a long stroke to take out weight as I cut my length right there, a little bit right through there. Here we're not taking off any length. I'm just going to add a little bit of texture to soften that up and we need a little bit more over here. All right, I'm thinking this shape is looking pretty good. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Final Men's French Crop Cut Haircut Here's our finished look. I think we got a really nice kind of taper. One thing I will say is when you're doing a taper, especially when you're practicing on a mannequin head you're not going to like it while you're doing it. You're going to freak out, but wait till you wash it and wait till you get it dry before you can really judge it completely. It takes a little time to dial it in and to get your hand motions right, but we got a nice little taper. We got it blended through the crown really properly so it has a nice head shape to it. It's not the anti-head shape where it's flat and collapsed in the back. You got a nice little solid top and we've got this lad kind of look in the front where it's straight across but still has a little bit of texture. And I think that this really surmises the French crop in that it's solid, soft and short on the sides with a little bit of texture in the front. So add this to your repertoire practice and it's just skills that you need to have in your arsenal and this is really a straightforward haircut that's very versatile that you can use on a lot of different hair types and a lot of different hair textures and thicknesses. So there we go. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. If you're looking for men's haircut ideas, the French crop is good one. Crop fade haircuts are popular among men all over the world. Learning how to do a mens crop haircut requires precision and proper technique since it shows all flaws. Using various tools to achieve seamless crop cut hairstyles, you can create a masterpiece of your own! Tutorial

In this soft undercut tutorial short hair look we use three tools to create the final style: clippers, a Feather Plier Razor and Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC. All three tools have their important purposes and contribute to the final look in different ways. Follow along with the video tutorial and the transcript below.   Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial:   Welcome to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on an undercut, but we're going to do a short undercut, a pixie undercut. Keep it from being so full on thick hair, still make sure it's got some movement some style and some grace. So check it out. Let's get started. Diving right in because I forgot to hit record on the underneath part but luckily it's an easy part to explain.   The Undercut So I took from the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part down to the nape area and I rounded that out a little bit on both sides so I don't end up with a fat little point in the middle. From there I took my clipper with a number five attachment, hit on and just cut everything underneath off and very short. It's all the same length. Everything off underneath here, just buzz it short to get it out of the way. So after we've cut everything underneath short and clean, I'll take the guard attachment off. I'll take my comb and now I'm just going to go through and around the edges of the hairline fit that in. So I'll put the comb in angle it out a little bit so it's really short around the edges of the hairline and I work that up and out and blend. I'm not going to recut everything up to here. I'm just fitting it in a little closer near the hairline. So this is just tapering that in just a little bit closer. You can certainly go through and use smaller guards to fit that in a little cleaner as well but we're just going to show you options. So after I've got that fitted in we're going to come here into the nape and do the same sort of motion where I'm just tapering that in just right around the hairline. And I think when you go through and you do a little bit of tapering, even though it's not necessarily a massive amount, I think it does add a little more elegance to the haircut overall as opposed to it just being all the same length underneath. So it differentiates me from other people or for someone doing it at home. So it also adds a little style, a little bit of elegance, a little bit of fine tuning and sometimes it's just that extra 10% that really makes a haircut pop and look truly professional. The Pixie Portion So when I go and cut the top I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. Now the Feather Plier Razor is a guardless razor. It doesn't have a guard. It has a super sharp blade so be a little careful, but it gives me the most control over how much hair I remove, where I remove it from and how precise the shape is that I apply to it. So this is my weapon of choice for cutting the top. Alright so now we've sectioned off the top. I've sectioned from where the quarter part would be right at the crown. I've sectioned out the front from the back of the head. We're going to start right in the middle and I'm going to take me a little pie section and make sure it's not too thick. And I'm going to hold this out at an angle. I want this top part of the section to be held at that elevation so I can graduate it. Make sure everything comes out. I know I'm going short here so I'm going to take my Feather Plier Razor and start with a very very broad stroke and cut that up and out. And I think that that length once it bounces up is probably going to be pretty good. Now once I put a little bit more texture into this internally it will make it feel a little shorter as well. So before texture I leave it a little longer. After texture it will make it feel a little shorter. Close my razor. Take the next part. I'm going to pivot out of the center and add the next section in. Again, not too thick. If the sections get too thick then the razor has to push through it and I end up with a line that's not very clean or consistent. Open my guard again, there's my guide underneath, take that up and out. And I'm taking a pretty broad stroke to make sure I maintain that soft kind of texture to it. If I need to put layering in it then we'll do that a little bit later. And I'm just going to continue this pivoting right here in the crown and walking my guide around the head. And I think we're looking pretty good so far. Check that out, see how that's looking. I think that's looking pretty good. Now going through and taking a vertical section will force it to separate into vertical pieces. If I was to go through and take this horizontally then it would build up a much more solid line. So after I've done this side I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Okay now we're coming to the last section on the opposite side and I'm still continuing to cut up from the bottom to the top. Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Make sure we got everything dialed in there lengthwise around the perimeter. Now let's check the other side. So we're going to start here with the center part on top. We're going to separate it left and half sides. Then I'm going to go through and take a vertical section off of the center part using the guide in the back and I'm going to hold this vertically and continue my angle of graduation that I had from underneath, still taking a nice broad razor stroke working from the back into the front. If I want the front to get longer, then once I hit the ear I'll start to pull everything back to that. If I want to maintain everything kind of being equal, I can certainly continue to walk my guide. Next section, holding it out vertically, there's my guide that's falling out, taking vertical sections continuing that through. Now I've noticed that the razor starts to catch in the hair a little bit and I'm drying out so I'm going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to help smooth the hair out and make it easier for my razor to cut. Continuing my vertical sections, not taking sections that are too thick. There's my guide falling out. That's much better. Slides much better through the hair. Comb that down. I want that hitting right about the middle of the ear which is going to be right at the nose. Doesn't have to be perfect you know. I just want to make sure I get in the general vicinity of the proper length that I'm going for. Next section, pull to the ear so I leave a little bit of extra length in the front that I may cut off but at least I'll leave it there just in case I want to do something with that. Yeah I think a little more length is going to work out well. Take the last section, bring that back to the ear as well. Not much is going to reach from her previous layers that she had around the front. Now we've got that. There we go. Now we can start to see some separation popping in because we've been taking vertical sections. After I've cut both sides it's going to leave me a little bit of a point in the front. Now I don't want this much of a point because I think it's going to become too exaggerated so I'm going to round this out a little bit more and take a little bit of the weight out. So I'll take the entire thing, pull that forward and go through and do a deep channel cut as I'm cutting the length right here at the very front at the same time. It's going to not only remove the thickness and the weight of it, but it's also going to cut some of that length off. I'll go through and do my initial pass. I'll go through and do what I think needs to be done and then I'll go back and look at it and see if I need to take any more out or take any more length off. This haircut has a lot of visual elements to it and I have to determine that those visual elements if they fit as I go. I can't just hit it once and move on. I have to fine-tune the shape with each pass and with each cut according to her hair texture, their thickness, their growth pattern, their waves and what my end result what I think looks good to my eye. I think that's looking pretty good. So let's blow it dry take a look and see what we got. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Reducing Fluff Alright. So we finished blowing dry and I think the basic shape looks pretty good. It's very pixie like. It's nice and short underneath so it keeps it from really bulking out, but I think it needs a little bit more pop to it. I think it's still a little bit too fluffy. So what I'm going to go through and do is I'm going to take my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest blade I got and I'm going to go through and do some really deep channel cutting and be very very aggressive with this to get this hair to separate more in pieces so it becomes less product dependent and I can still get that aggressive separation. So I'm not going to take any sections. I'm just going to comb the hair straight down put the blade in about halfway and just go through and chew some big separations between this. So not only will this remove a little bit of weight, but it's also going to give me a much more aggressive separation and I think make it look a little bit edgier and have a little bit more pop to it. There we go. I'm liking that better. Be careful. Don't go through and get too aggressive in areas that you don't want. Just pay attention. Gently apply. You can always add more but you can't take it out once you put it in. So be mindful of that and I think that right through there a little bit. Right through there. I like that better. Final Look of this Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a lot of texture to it and for as thick as this mannequin head is for it to not be so bulbous and full and still have some separation and movement to it, it is quite showing of the technique of undercutting it and then having enough hair to lay over it and putting a lot of texture to it. So let us know what you think. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial