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Tutorial

Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe

Tutorial

Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial

In this layered graduated bob with fringe tutorial, Russell Mayes explores a popular older women's hairstyle that consists of layers, graduation and more layers. This layered bob haircut starts with an inverted bob followed by graduation and then more layering on top. The techniques discussed are great for removing bulk from thick short hair. Finally, bangs are added followed by some blending. Short bob haircuts have always been popular but modifying them based on hair texture and designing bob hairstyles to complement client face shapes, hair texture and density is always a challenge. Watch this short layered inverted bob with bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on how to add layering to graduation. How to keep the graduation from being too thick and overly mushroomy, how to keep it more modern. And it works really well on super thick hair or hair that's really stiff and needs a little bit of pop from some movement. We're going to show you how to add the graduation and where to add it. We're going to show you how to add layering, where to add it, and how to disconnect everything but still make it look like it's connected. So, let's get started.   Inverted Layers So, we're starting here in the nape. I took a center part all the way down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's my first flat section I'm working with in the back. I'm taking my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in version. I like the point on these scissors. And the blade is very, very sharp, but the point is not overly bitey, so I don't have to worry about poking myself if I'm doing a lot of um point cutting. Here, we're going to take a center section, and I'm going to determine if I want graduation or if I want layering. This first section, I'm actually going to invert the layering a little bit. So, it's going to be a little shorter at the occipital bone and then a little longer towards the hairline. So while this looks like it could be graduation based upon the head shape, it's actually layered quite a bit because it's shorter at the top of the section and longer at the bottom. So, by layering this first section, especially on these graduated type of shapes, this can make the shape instantly start getting very, very full and very bulky. Now, if I have someone with thinner hair, then that's definitely what I want. But on someone with thick hair or where it's very stiff and doesn't move, by going through and layering this first section, it helps it lay down a little bit closer against the head so I don't build up so much volume. I started in the center. I determined what type of layering I wanted and now I'm walking my guide towards the left and then towards the right. So the way I do that is I take the center as my guide, determine what my length is, and then add the next section to the left, a parallel section. I comb those two sections into the center and cut. And then I remove the previously cut section. And my new guide is the guide for the next section as I walk all the way over to the left. And now I'm going all the way over to the right. So it's just continuing to take the same length in the center and work that towards each side. I want to try to maintain as even of a balance as I can between both sides. Now, here you see me, I'm just going through and just cleaning it up, making sure it's nice and clean. After I finish that, I'll move on to the next section.   Graduation The next section is going up to two flat sections of the head and then to the top of the ear. Now, here you'll see the underneath completely drops out. And I'm going to completely ignore that guide and create a new guide. This is where the graduation of the haircut really starts to happen. So, whatever angle of graduation I create, you can see here which is fairly steep, that's going to be what the visual representation of my graduation is going to be. And you can see it's already, even though it's sitting on top of a layered section underneath, it still has that typical classic graduated shape, even though it's less voluminous because the underneath hair has been layered. I'll continue to just walk my guide from the center over to the right. And I'll check each time to make sure I'm building up a consistent flow of graduation from the center out. Try to maintain the same levels of elevation that I was going through and trying to maintain cutting directly on top of my previously cut guide as I start to work around the sides.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of any future Jatai Academy content.   Continuing to take my vertical sections as I walk around to the head. And here is a really good angle to see what type of graduation that I'm putting into it. And I'm just continuing to work this around. This is what you would consider classic round graduation because the shape is round vertically and horizontally. That looks pretty good. So now we're going to continue on to the next two flats up into the top of the crown. We're going to move that around to the front of the hairline at the bottom of the recession.   Layering Now, this section, you can see where my graduation is starting to fall out of my fingers. And then I'm going about a finger length further and cutting that straight up and down. So, by cutting that section straight up and down and leaving it a little longer, it really kind of exaggerates the graduated shape, but it doesn't add volume to it like if I was to continue to graduate this shape. So by pulling it up and cutting it straight up and down, I'm actually layering this top section. So I have layering for the first nape section. I graduate to center right at the curve of the head at the occipital bone and above to the drop crown. Now from the drop crown above, I'm pulling that up and layering it again. So I have layer, graduation and layer. So, it seems counterintuitive that I would want a graduated shape that has more layering in it than it has graduation. But because we put that graduation right in the center and sandwiched between those two layered sections, it really gives me a nice smooth graduated shape, but without that stiffness and that bulkiness that comes from that kind of brutalist aesthetic that Sassoon had back in the 70s that on certain types of hair, it was just very very stiff and had no movement to it. And if you didn't style it properly, it just looks completely out of sorts. By having this layering in it, it lightens it up and it loosens it up and gives it a lot more free flow. Here we've done both sides. And I think that that looks pretty good. It really collapses the nape there quite well and still gives me that nice graduated shape. Now we're going to go through and start working on the top.   Top Section I'm going to take a center section from the back all the way to the front. I'm going to pull the crown up. I'm going to take that guide that I had cut underneath from my layering section. And now I'm going to continue vertically layering this at 90° all the way from the back into the front. This is just going to remove a lot of excess length that I don't need. I'll hold this straight up at 90 from each section of the head as I'm working from back to front. Now, this shape gives me a lot of versatility and a lot of variations that I can layer into this and add into this shape because everything is kind of disconnected and I'm not building up this architecturally over structured shape that doesn't allow for any kind of variation. This shape, because there's so much disconnection in it, gives me that option. Now, instead of taking sub-sections and holding everything up into the center where my layering guide was initially, I'm going to take the entire right side of this head because there's no hair from the underneath. I'm going to pull everything straight up into the center and cut that.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to pull everything over into the center until I completely run out of hair. Once I finish my layering here on the top, I'm going to go through and anything that hangs over from this top layering hangs over the underneath section that I've already cut. I'm going to go through and double check here and make sure that it doesn't hang over. So, I'm just going to clean this up. There's a little bit of hair that hangs over. So, I'm just going to go through and vertically section like I did my layering underneath in the third section that I took. And make sure nothing hangs over that so we have a cleaner shape. I could have done this first and then layered it, but I find that I would end up taking more time cutting the hair on top that I end up cutting shorter anyway. So, this way I'll end up cutting less hair, making sure it blends.   The Fringe Now, we're going to go through and take our bang section. We're going to take a pretty good section to the corner of the hairline right there at the recession. And then I'm going to subsection that into a small little section that goes right to the corner of the eye on each side. This is the hair that's going to hang right in the center of the face. Going to create a straight bang here, but curtain bangs or side swept bangs work well too. I'm going to hold that down and cut that to where it hits right at the center of the eye. This is a very popular aesthetic in Japan where it's like right at the most irritating length at the eyeball. Now I'm going to hold this section up and then layer that section just to bevel that edge right there around the face a little bit. So it keeps it blunt but it bevels that edge so it softens it up just a little bit but still maintains that real solid shape. Now we're going to take the rest of the section, hold it down, and I'm going to determine the length that I'm going to right there at the jaw. Cut a little bit right there so I have a guide, and then I can match that on the other side. So, I'll figure out where it is on the other side. Make sure I'll double check and then go through and cut it shorter than the other side. Oh well, we'll figure it out.   Blending Now, I'm going to comb this forward, take the center out of it, and then connect the guides that I've created. I've got the shorter guide in the center that I've created going to that longer guide right at the edge. And that's going to give me a nice really steep line that's going to brush that bang out of the face a little bit. Now, we're going to go through and take a real vertical section here, right above the ear. Hold that down. And I'm going to look at where my little graduated short length bob was starting in the back. Hold this section straight down and then visualize where I want that to go. Now, this is the part here that can really make the shape a little more conservative or a little bit more edgy and soft. I'm going for a little more blunt of a shape, but you could certainly, you know, go through and make sure that this is a lot longer and piecier and a little bit more um, you know, Korean in its aesthetic, I think. So, now we're going to take the next section down, comb that straight down, point cut that through to make sure that my edge is soft right through there, so I have a little bit more flow And I'm not being real precise with this section. I'm allowing the shape to have some movement to it and some softness and some flow to it. Everything has been real structured in this with blunt lines that I've cut. So right here around the edge where I want a little bit more exaggerated movement, I'm going to go through and soften that up by point cutting it. Now we take our last section and you see that little corner that just hangs out there between the back and into the sides and I'll cut that through so we make sure we have a nice smooth blend from our graduation to the back into the sides.   Texturing and Removing Weight Now I'm going to take my Feather Styling Razor and I have the pink version. And then I'm going to add the Texturizing Blade. So this blade has little guards that cover every other section of the blade so that as I run this across the hair, it doesn't cut everything straight across. It gives me little channels so I can add some texture to it and remove a little bit of weight. You may not need to do this part if working on fine hair. So I make this softer without necessarily going through and adding deep channels to it like I would if I was to hold this section vertically and cut into it with my regular styling blade. So, after I finish doing some sculpture cutting in the back, I'm going to take each section horizontally and just add a little bit of texture to it just to create some more internal variation and to give me a little bit more softening and some interest to it. Now, depending upon the hair, I may do a little bit more, I may do a little bit less. But because I've cut this shape very very blunt except for that little bit right in front of the ear. This gives me a still solid shape but softens it up internally and gives me a little bit more visual interest. I'm really liking the texture that we have there. I think that looks pretty good. Now we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it. I'm going to use my Du-Boa High-Tech Brush to polish everything off and then a little bit of styling wax after. You can also use a round brush to style it.   Final Look Well, here is our end result. And I think that we got a really, really nice shape. I think that by going through putting our layering first, our graduation second, then layering on top, it really gives us a nice graduated shape without it being too mushroomy or too stiff or without it looking like, you know, grandma's graduation. This haircut doesn't have to look like a women over 60s haircut. It keeps it more modern. And and let's face it, most modern haircuts have a lot more texture to it than the the stuff from the 60s and 70s that were just overly stiff. So, I think that this works really really well. I like this kind of heavy bang that hits right in the eye and kind of blends into the side. And I think we've got just the right amount of texture to where the bottom lays flat, but we still have a nice little pop here for our graduation. It kind of makes it look like a shaggy bob. This kind of bob works well on straight hair, but can be adapted to wavy hair or curly hair. You can also add a pop of hair color or highlights for additional points of interest. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.
Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement

Tutorial

Invisible Hair Layers for Reducing Bulk and Creating Subtle Movement

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement. For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary. We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob. We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob. There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started. So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of. Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.   Establishing the One Length Structure Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client. Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke. Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible. Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement. The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good. Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide. Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky. And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful. So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line. There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section. I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line. Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt. Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape. So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape. The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer. So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath. Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut. After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around. So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.   Vertical Sectioning So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off. Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall. If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down. Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.   Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing. And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated. Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility. So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial

Choppy short layered hair is popular hairstyle among older women but it can be modernized for younger looks. Short layered haircuts are not necessarily easy to do. Choppy layers can tend to look lumpy if done improperly and can really stand out if done on thick hair. Short choppy haircuts are a type of layered bob that's textured. While not a pixie cut, they are short hairstyles that have a lot of style and can compliment the face nicely. Watch this short choppy layered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. You've seen a choppy bob. Well, we're going to do some chop graduation today. Chop graduation is a little more difficult because you have to worry about the graduation starting to look lumpy. And lumpy graduation always looks bad. So, we have to apply the right amount of texture in the right way. Section it so that we can avoid that. We're going to show you how to do all that as we get started and I'm going to blow it dry without using my hands at all. Only the power of the blow dryer.   Back of the Head So, let's get started here in the nape. We're going to take a section across and split the top from the bottom. Then, in the center, we're going to take a diagonal section. And I'm going to hold my scissors out behind on top of my fingers and just go through and cut whatever angle of graduation that I want. Using that as my guide, I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor, which is a razor without a guard. It gives me the most control and has the sharpest blade. This is the limited edition white. And so get them while you can. So I'll start and follow the guide that I did in the center with the scissor. And I'm going to alternate scissor and then razor. So this section here, I'm pulling out the same angle of elevation, following the same angle of graduation. And I'm gonna go through and just chop that line in with my scissors to get my graduation into it. Now, I'm not trying to be real precise with this. Each section that I take, I'm going to alternate. So, this section, I'm going to follow the guide and use my razor to go through and chop the section. So, each section is going to fluctuate between more texture and softness and more texture and structure. This is my Tokyo Scissor from Jatai. It is the longest blade I have at 6 inches. It has a nice point. It's very sharp. And I like the longer blade for doing this technique because on the opposite side, it makes it much easier to cut on top of my fingers like I'm doing now. Here, I'm going through and using my Feather Plier Razor to go through and put my chop graduation in. Now, typical, you know, school of thought is that if I do this, it's going to be really, really lumpy and look really, really bad. But because I'm taking very, very thin sections and I'm elevating it at a higher level of graduation, it makes a much smoother blend. So, I can get that texture from chopping into it without it being very, very lumpy. Now, on the other side, you can see why I like a longer scissor. It makes it so much easier to cut on top of my fingers to make my choppy graduation blend at the same angles. And that I'm cutting from the top down. I'll do the razor exactly the same on the other side, just keeping my choppiness as even and as consistent as possible. After I finish the underneath, we're going to move on to the top of the head. I'm going to start at the same angle for my partings and I'm going to try to elevate at the exact same angle that I did underneath using my razor following the same method of keeping a short little choppy stroke so I can start to build the weight of the graduation without too much weight that I start to create lumpiness here. Going in with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor and going through and putting a little choppy graduation into it as I work from top down. And each section that I cut, I want to comb it and see how the weight distribution is and make sure that my graduation is consistent because this is purely a visual type of haircut. Though I'm sectioning it technically and I'm elevating it technically, my cut is purely visual. So, I have to check it a lot along the way to make sure that I can get both sides even and that I get a consistent type of graduation because it's real easy to get this really really inconsistent and then it starts to look bad.   Sides of the Head Working from the back of the head into the side of the head and I will just follow and build each section coming from the back into the sides. Now, you'll notice that when you're doing short graduation like this, it's going to start to stack up in the nape. And then as I get to the edges around the ears, it's going to start to build up a little bit more weight. So, that's where I'm getting that bob shape from on the sides. Following through, not trying to be real precise, just trying to be real consistent. And this is one of those haircuts you just have to build it and look at it each step of the way.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Still alternating between the razor and the straight scissor just to get a variation in my texture. When I did this type of shape with a bob, it's a lot easier because you don't have to worry about the weight distribution and you don't have to worry about the blend as much because when you're dealing with one length, once you get that shape in on the bottom, you don't have to worry about seeing the choppiness of it other than it flicking out the separation on the bottom. So here, just being patient, working from back to front and trying to build my shape visually. If I need to fine-tune it, I'll fine-tune it. Like that little piece, I thought maybe it was a little heavy, but we'll see. I may fine-tune that a little bit more as we go. Pulling out. Following my guide from underneath. Keeping my scissor and my razor stroke as consistent as possible. There we go. And I like where that's starting to hit on the jawline. Now, from here, I got my last section. I'll take a little bit of the previously cut hair as my guide as I start to work into the sides. I want to make sure that as I start to apply each new cut that I'm using the guide and not recutting into the guide. That's a difficult thing. So, it's okay to not be exactly on top of your guide as you're working this shape. That's why every time I finish a section, I want to comb it and see how it fits. Now, we're going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to make sure that the blade of my razor slides through the hair a lot easier and gives me a very, very consistent result. And I'll use it mostly when I'm doing internal texturing with the razor.   Removing Weight And I'm going to go through, pull out each section, and with my Feather Plier Razor, just go through and as delicately as possible, go through and channel cut to remove some of the weight because these mannequin heads have a lot of weight. I want to maintain that corner in the front. That's why I keep pulling that out and showing that corner. I don't really texturize that much or remove that much weight. I want to keep that solid. Here's a good angle to see how I'm trying to apply this texturizing very very finely and judiciously so I can remove weight more than creating separation. You'll notice that I tend to close the blade in between taking sections and that just gives me a little extra protection and make sure that I'm respecting the blade so I don't cut myself. And just continue to work up until I run out of hair.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And here, I'll just continue to visually remove as much weight as I feel needs to, to help that hair kind of lay down and not get too puffy and bell-like in its shape. I think that when it gets too bell-like, it tends to look a little dated, even though this haircut has a lot of modern texture to it.   Blowdrying Now, when I go to blow this dry, I first started just using the blow dryer to go through and start getting some aeration in it and getting some volume to it. And I think it started to look really good. So, I just used the blow dryer and that's all. I didn't use my fingers to stretch it out. I didn't do anything other than on the bangs. I kind of blew the bangs down with a little bit of a brush to make sure that they're smooth. But everything else is just using that blow dryer to get volume and allow the hair to naturally separate and get the texture that I've built into it by applying the structure of the haircut. Then just a little finger styling to make sure that everything pops and it shows the texture like we want and that I don't have anything that I need to fine-tune.   Final Look All right, here's our end result. And I think that uh I think that that looks pretty good for not using my hands and it blowing it dry and just letting the blow dryer do the work. And I think it really shows off, you know, kind of this choppy graduation cuz the fear you got to get over is doing a graduation that looks lumpy. I want it choppy and piecy and have a lot of separation, but I don't want to look lumpy and poorly done. That's going to come from how we angle our fingers and how we consistently apply our scissor layer with our razor layer and then fine-tuning it at the end. And I think we look pretty good. I think this is a nice interesting way to get some texture and a little more fullness and have a little bit more pizzazz to it, so to speak. Anyway, check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Short choppy hairstyles are haircuts women gravitate to when it comes to short hair. While choppy short layers are popular with women over 50, they can be modernized for younger looks.   
Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

Tutorial

Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

In this short bob undercut style, Russell takes a look at a modified bob haircut that utilizes an undercut to remove weight and prevent a mushroom shape. This is not a shaved undercut bob but rather a subtle, soft undercut that leaves a classic hairstyle look. The undercut bob haircut works great on thick hair to reduce volume. Bob haircuts will always be in popular style. Watch this short bob undercut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Bob Undercut:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Do you have problems with short bobs getting real bulky and looking too mushroomy? Well, we're going to show you how to fix that today. Very easy with some undercutting and some texturizing and a little bit of razor work. And you'll be amazed at the results that you can get. So, let's get started. To preface this whole thing here, when you're doing a short bob, it can get very, very thick very, very quick. We're going to go through and we're going to undercut the shape, but we're going to undercut it in a specific way where we're not necessarily skinning it and making it very, very edgy. We're just going to take all the weight out from underneath and it's still going to bevel through and blend in the back. So, I think that that's very important for this sort of shape even though we're going to disconnect it and we're still going to maintain a nice clean bob line. All right, so first let's get with sectioning. Here we go. All right, so the first thing I want to do is go through and separate the top from the bottom. So, I can take it as high as the center of the recession or I can take it anywhere lower from there. So, I'm going to go a little lower than that. So, I still maintain a real strong bob shape, but I start to take this hair out. That's just going to make it bulky. So, we're going to go to the quarter part. From the quarter part down to the occipital bone. Then I'm going to take it right across straight across the back.   Creating the Bob with Undercut to Remove Bulk So after I feel like I've got this balanced like I want and I have enough that I feel I can remove enough bulk to keep my bob from being too bulbous, I'm going to go through and take my Jatai Osaka Scissor. Now this is a 6-in scissor that has a nice strong solid blade, so I can take and cut a large section of hair easily. and it's nice and sharp. So, I'll go through the entire section without any kind of resistance. So, from there, I'm going to take hold this section. Take each section. I'm going to comb everything straight up. And I'm going to lay my finger right at the parting. Pull this straight up. Cut that straight across. So, what that's going to do is that's going to cut the top of the section a lot shorter than the underneath so that when it falls, it's going to fall and collapse that shape really close to the head and remove a lot of that bulk. Start here on the sides. Comb that section straight up to the parting. Cut that straight across. And just do that all the way from the front into the nape. I don't have to be real precise about this. I'm just going through cutting the length off. Oops. And since I'm holding it so high up at such extreme elevation, it's going to take all the weight out of this section and leave me just enough hair around the edges that I can start to fit in. So after I've got that finished, I'm going to go through and start fine-tuning this in all around the edges. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in white, no guard. And I'm gonna go through and just visually take a little piece of hair, a little vertical section, go through real gently, lay this flat across my section, and start to fit that in closely against the head. I can go through and start really fine-tuning this shape and take some of that length out and make it fit in a little bit nicer around the edges. And I'm just going through this is called filleting. So I'm just going to fillet this section off to get some of that really long hair out of the way. Going through here real gently taking some of that out. My whole idea is just to remove the weight and remove the excess length that I don't need underneath. That tends to make everything really blocky. Very easy to go through and cut all this length off and take that weight out and still have a nice soft underneath shape. Now, before I move on to the top, if I feel like this underneath with this length that I've cut is too much, if it if it still feels like it's going to be too thick and make my bob kind of pop out and get kind of lumpy, then I can go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai and remove some more weight. And the way I would do that is just take the comb, scissor over comb, and I would do it really deep and just walk that all the way up because really all I have to thin is the middle of that section. I don't have to thin the whole thing even though I'm going to. And this will take this will take any of the remaining weight that I have that I don't want out of it. I feel like the Tokyo Thinning Scissor takes the right amount of weight that I can go through and do this very very deep without fear that it's going to come back and bite me because it took too much hair out in one shot. I can hit it multiple times to take more hair out, but I don't have to. We've got all this underneath hair taken care of, and now we can go ahead and start working on our bob.   Creating the Bob All right. So, I've got my natural part, which is a little off center, and I'm going straight back down and halving the head, and then one flat section above where the occipital bone is diagonally towards the ear. And this is going to be the start of my little bob. So, I'm just going to take a center section. And here, I'm going to look at the side of her head and see where that's going to go. So, I'm going to go fairly short here and just cut that straight across. Check my line. See if my length there will be short enough and how it's going to build up there. And I think that's going to be fine. So now I'll start using that as my guide, angling it towards the chin and just start at the innermost part and cut towards the face. Do the same thing on the other side. See where that's going to go towards the jaw. Since I don't have a line underneath, I only have this line here and my length there. Start cutting from the center going towards the face. Check my lengths. See if they're building up similarly. And they're looking pretty good. That's pretty nice. And I'm liking the way that this hair in the back is really kind of stacking in and fitting in underneath the weight of the bob that I'm starting to build up. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section right there. Here's my next section. I'm going to hold it out at elevation. There's my guide from underneath. And then we're going to lay that flat horizontally right across that. Cut my one length and start to build up some weight. Here this comes. I'm starting to build up towards the front using my guide from underneath and the guide in the center and building up the shape that I want to flow towards the shape up towards the face. Parallel sections as I start to work towards the front. Starting in the middle, seeing my guide length from underneath. Combing clean from the roots all the way down. There's my guide length. Get that out of there.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I'm just going to continue with this until I get to the last section. Now, we're working here into our last section on each side. And we can comb that down. And we can start to see a nice little bob shape developing up. And the whole idea behind this this haircut is to give me a bob shape without it having that really mushroomy type of bob because if she has thick hair and you're doing something short, you have to undercut it and you have to start relieving some of that weight from building up and looking very mushroomy. So, by going through and undercutting it and then going through and cutting my bob shape with the razor, that certainly helps alleviate some of that bulk and some of that that mass that starts to develop. Even though I'm holding this down and still cutting it exactly like I would cut a one- length bob, but I'm loosening up from the technique and allowing it to develop visually as opposed to going through and trying to build it very structurally and very geometrically. Now, we're going to go through and blow dry, and I'm going to see what we have. And I'm gonna see how we need to taper this in and fine-tune this in the nape to make sure everything pops just right.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now to go through and remove some of this kind of 70s bevel that we have to it, I'm going to take a vertical section, hold that straight out from the head. Take my thinning scissor and go through and vertically thin some of this hair out so it helps the shape collapse a little bit more. We're going to check that. That looks better. And then let's continue that on as I work around and get to the mastoid bone. Nice short little bob undercut to relieve some of that heavy heavy mushroomy weight that we usually get. And I like that right there. That's looking pretty good. Not bad.   Short Bob Undercut Final Look   Here's our end result. We got a nice little blend back in here, even though we did completely disconnect it and undercut it. And we got a nice little bevel to our bob, even though it still maintains a real solid shape right at the jawline. So, this is a very good technique to add to your repertoire in case you have someone with very, very thick, stiff hair that you can get some of that weight out. Now, you don't have to do as much as I did or you can do more. It's very versatile shape and it works on all different types of textures. Maybe if the hair is real fine, maybe I wouldn't do it because you want to build up as much weight as you can to get a real solid bob shape. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial

Tutorial

Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial

Let's explore a Brad Pitt hairstyle. But which one? The famous actor has had many hairstyles over the years and has sported distinct styles in movies like Fight Club, Fury, Mr. and Mrs. Smith and Inglorious Bastards. His red carpet looks from his days with Jennifer Aniston and Angelina Jolie have always been of interest to fashion gurus. And his hair is versatile making him a great candidate for a variety of looks. In this tutorial, we dissect the Brad Pitt haircut from Seven, a 90s oldie but goodie. Follow along with the video below and follow along with the transcript.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of Brad Pitt's short haircut that he had in the movie Se7en. It was one of my favorite looks that he had because it wasn't a real polished look. It was a little more lived in, a little more raw. So we're going to study how to get that raw look but still have it look like it is a complete and well done haircut. So let's get started. So in the movie Se7en Brad Pitt plays this young rookie detective and he's teamed up with this veteran, you know, detective to show him the ropes. So you can kind of see in his character that he's young, he's new to the job, he's new to the gig, he's learning how to do everything. And that's reflected in his style as well. He's not real polished in his clothes. They're like they fit but they're not real expensive and also you can see that especially in his hair because his hair is this young raw kind of cheap rookie detective haircut. It's not real polished. It's not real clean. It's literally the opposite of Miami Vice that was glitz and glam and perfection. And now you're seeing Brad Pitt who's usually impeccably dressed with perfect hair, because the dude has great hair. In this movie, his hair is a little lumpy. It's a little raw. It's a little disheveled. It's not polished. So I'm going to try to repeat that basic shape and keep that rawness to it without it looking like it's a cheap terrible haircut. To get started I'm going to go through and separate the top from the bottom. We're going to take a recession...center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part's going to go down to the drop crown which is between the occipital bone and the crown. It's that little bump right in the middle. That is basically the parietal ridge that I'm separating the top from the bottom from.   Scissor Over Comb Now that I've got the top separated from the bottom, I'm going to go through and do some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor with a nice even blade all the way through. It's not a real heavy blade so it doesn't tire out my hand by doing a lot of repetitive motion, but it still has a nice sharp blade and a good clean point to it. So we're going to start here on the side and in the movie I noticed that his hair was tapered closer here in the front and it was a little longer in the back. So that's what we're going to do. I'm going to angle my comb here. I'm going to start real low and just crudely go through scissor over comb. I'm not taking a whole lot of strokes just yet. I just want to go through and get my lengths proper to where I think that they should be. This is still going to be a little tapered. So we're going to go through and feel it out and get everything where I think that should be. And I think that that's probably a pretty good length. I'll probably take that a little shorter right through there and then I will continue to work this back. After I've got to the mastoid I'm going to go to the back of the head, the nape of the head, and I'm going to start here at the bottom. I'm going to leave a little bit more length than I did on the side and taper that up. It's not a real steep taper but it's still tapered a little bit nonetheless. Now once I come to the point where the mastoid is, I was cutting the side going up, I was cutting the back going up but because of the way that the angles are on the parietal ridge now I'm going to come in at an angle like this and work that up and out and through. So I'm working my tapering parallel to my parting. Okay now I'm going to go through and separate in the back. I'm going to take from the crown to the high point of the ear and separate the front from the back. And I'll go through and take a center section and I want to continue the angle of tapering that I've already started from underneath as I get longer towards the crown.   Blending the Sides and Back So I'll take this section right in the back in the middle using my wood-look Feather Styling Razor limited edition, by the way. This gives me enough texture to keep everything soft and allow me to fine-tune it here later on. But it also can go through and cut a nice clean shape. I'm going to pull that out. There's my length from underneath. Go through and continue that angle straight up. I'm not worried about this length being right because I'll cut that with the top. All I'm looking for now is to blend this into the back. I will pivot from the crown. There's my pivot angle. I'll pull this out from the head at 90. There's my line from underneath and my previously cut guide. I'll go through take that length off and make sure that we have a nice little blend through there. Pivot again as I start to work towards the side. Remove the center section. Now I only have my second and third section. Going to pull this straight out from the head. There is my line from underneath. Going to take that out, remove my second section. Now I have my third and my fourth on this side. There's my length from underneath. We're going to go through blend that through. Now let's go through and work on making sure that the sides blend. I'm going to go through and take a parallel section to my previously cut section which was halving the parietal ridge. We have this length here so I'm going to pull this straight out from the head using my razor. There's my length underneath and cut this using that length as my guide from the front all the way to the back.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @JataiFeather   Next section. And I'm gonna keep going through and following this methodology until I get to the center of the head and then I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side. We've got everything blended through with our sides and the back and I think that we don't have to worry about any hair hanging over that looks funky but the top is still too long for the shape.   Blending the Top So what I want to do is go through and cut the top, but I want to cut it as inconsistent as possible without being completely out of shape so what I'm going to try to do is just use my fingers to put in, pick up and then cut anything that hangs out over my fingers off. Lift this up, put my fingers in, try to find that length that I want and then go through using my Feather Styling Razor and just start cutting anything that hangs out over my fingers off. This is going to be very crude and very raw. And I may have to go through and do it a couple of times. But this is how I'm going to start getting that really crude shape on top and I'm not trying to cut everything at one time. This starts to give me my guide length and now as I start to look at that front, that's looking more like the photo. He's looking like a detective more and more. Another way that I can go through and cut this, pull back. There's my length. I'm going to lay my finger against the flat part of the blade and anything that's really long I'll just push into the blade and cut that off. After we got the front, I'm going to go through and take a little more here. Hold this up in my fingers. There's my guide from the front and then we're just going to go through take this off. I would probably use the regular blade as opposed to the R-Type Blade to give myself a little bit more protection. And I'm not jamming this into my hand. I'm just running it across the top of my fingers. So it's starting to crudely cut the shape, but not real cleanly. So take your time and be patient. It's a technique that requires a little bit of patience. So let's work this a little bit more internally and take some more of this weight out in the crown. So I'll pull out, go through, channel cut some of that because I want some weight removal and some separation. Continue to go through and channel some of this out until I feel like I got the weight and the length like I want here in the crown.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I think that's looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry and see if I need to do any texturizing on the top. I like the length that we got on the front. I think that that's looking you know pretty good through there. I like the length on the sides and the back down through here but we need to take a little bit more out through the ridge here because this shape is a little beveled and rounded off.   Thinning & Removing Length So I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. Now this is a nice clean middle of the road thinning scissor to take out some weight. The more times that I hit it, it will start to remove more length so I'm going to go through and thin this ridge out a little through here and I'm going to thin it a lot but I'm going to thin it on the end so I can take some of that length out and bevel the shape a little bit. So we're going to start low here. Make sure that my straight blade is on the bottom. Start at the bottom. Get the motor running and then go through and work that up and bevel my shape a little bit. The more that I do this, the cleaner that the shape is going to be. Now you don't want to necessarily go through and give a really really crude haircut on your client but you still want to keep that kind of rough and raw texture to it. So there's a fine line that I'm walking here between how much of this shape can I make it crude and how much of it needs to be clean and presentable and even. There we go. We're going to take some of that out through there. I like that better. Take a little bit of clay.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle from Se7en End Result Alright, here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think we got the texture right. I think the lengths are pretty good and it still has that kind of rawness to it that I think he had in the movie and so I'm pretty content with this. I'm pretty happy with that. When you're going to do the razor texturing on the top like I did where you're going across your fingers, make sure you turn the blade away from you as you're going across. If the hair is real thick it doesn't work too well. So just take a mohawk section and pinch it off like the other technique that I showed you if the hair is really really thick. That works just as well and it will give you a very very similar shape. I think you're looking pretty good. You're ready to go catch some criminals, but don't look in the box. Don't look in the box. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial

The men's French crop cut hairstyle is known for its short sides and cropped textured top with a short fringe. The sides can have a high or low fade or taper and the top works well with thick hair and even curly hair. A blunt fringe or textured fringe give a distinct look. The French crop haircut is a great style to learn how to cut. Watch the crop hairstyle tutorial below and follow along with the transcript.   Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a practice on the French crop. The French crop taper fade is very very popular. It's very versatile. You can use it on a lot of different textures and a lot of different types but there are some fundamental skills that you really need to hone in and practice and get good at in order to deliver a very very good French crop. So let's study that. Let's get started. To get started what we've done is we've taken the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part down and curved that around into the back so that we have half of the parietal ridge sitting up top, half of it sitting on the bottom.   Tapering and Fading with a Clipper So I'm going to start and just remove some hair. So I just want to get most of this hair out of the way before I start worrying about my taper. So I'm gonna use a number three guard on my clipper and then just go straight up and take all of this hair off. Now as I start to go, sometimes this hair gets pushed up and out of the way. So if I just grab it and pull it into the teeth it makes it easier for me to get all this off. Now whenever I'm doing some short hair like this I don't want to go through and necessarily cut everything in my fingers first and then go through and cut it shorter with scissor over comb or clipper over comb or whatever that may be. Sometimes I just need to remove some hair so I can start whittling my shape in. So now that I've got my overall length cut off and I've established my length that I'm cutting to here at the top, I can go through and approach my taper in one of two different ways. I can skin the bottom up to where I want the skin part to be and then fade from short into long or I can work from long to short. It's really a personal preference on what style works best for you. I find personally if I'm doing something really high, like a French crop high fade, like I'm skinning it up really high, then I'd prefer to skin it first and then work out my line. If I'm keeping the taper lower and the skin fade very low, then I'll go from long to short. So let's go from long to short for a French crop low fade. So I had a three. Now I'm going to go down to a number two and I'll go up about a finger length away and as I start to run up the head I want to rock the clipper away from the head. That's going to allow me to cut this hair underneath short and then as I rock it out it allows me to blend into that longer length. So I finished with my number two. I got everything done like I want. I can look at it from a profile and see that it tapers quite nicely. Now I'm going to go down to a 1-1/2. And on the one and a half I'm going to do the same methodology that I was doing before where I'm not going up as high as the last one and as I get closer to where I want it to start to fade, I start rocking the clipper away from the head. So it's this type of arching motion that's coming from your wrist. I finished my one and a half so you notice that the steps went from three to two to one and a half. Now I'm going to a one. So as I get shorter the steps become smaller because you notice the difference much more as the hair gets shorter and you see more skin sticking out. Now we got a number one. Going to do the same thing. Start low where I stopped before. Run up to that point. Arc the clipper to start working on my blend. Now we're to our 1/2 so I run a 1/2 right at where I want my shortest bit. And then I open the blade a little bit and I start using my arcing motion of my wrist to help the clipper go through and blend that through as best I can. Now I'll take the clipper itself with no guard and just here on the very bottom take all of that little residual hair off. That's not looking too bad.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   So I've gone through and finished my tapering. Now I've gone and washed the hair because the clipper cuts better on dry hair and I can see everything a little bit better on dry whereas the scissors and razor cut better on wet hair.   Cutting the Top Back with Scissors So I've gone and shampooed. Now I've sectioned off from the high point of the head over to the top of the ear and I have the whole back of the head. I want to make sure that this blends well with the underneath without them getting a flat head. So I'll start right in the middle and I will take a parallel section. Now I'm going to separate this according to where the crown is. I'm going to hold this hair at this elevation because I want to make sure I continue this angle of graduation so it prevents me from getting a flat head. So I'll hold that straight out, plant my fingers, there's my guide I'm cutting from. Now I'm going to pull that out and continue that angle that I had there. Take that a little shorter through there by building up a little bit more length in the crown when the hair falls. It's going to continue this natural fall of head shape. So now from here after I've got that length going up from there, I'll use that as my length and follow the head shape from there forward. Oops! Once we got that through now that should be a nice curved shape blending right into my longest part of my taper underneath. I will go through, I will pivot the section from the center, get this other hair out of the way and continue to work that around into the sides. Now I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor this is a 6 inch scissor. It's got a nice little point on it and it gives me enough scissor length that I can really work in larger thicker sections of hair. And it's also good if I need to do some scissor over comb type of blending. Continue up the head working to the center top of the head. One more pivot. Pin this hair out of the way. Take my previous section, hold that out. There's my line from underneath. Follow my tapering angle and then start to head shape the rest of the cut so I continue this nice smooth bevel. I would rather have too much hair through here than not enough because I can always take it down. If I end up with not enough hair, then I end up with a flat head. Fine-tune this a little bit with some scissor over comb, just trying to get a rough shape into it. Get my lengths even. Get everything blended in the back. There we go. Now I'll go through, separate my center section again. This was the original section that I cut and I'm going to go through do the same thing on the other side.   Cutting the Top with Scissors After I finish the back I'm going to go through and take a center section right down the top of the middle and here I know that my bangs are already here. I can go shorter than that or longer. I'm going to leave that about that length so I'm going to go through and cut from this length to this length, going from back to front. Now I like to cut from the shortest part to the longer part. So I'm going to turn to the other side, pick this straight up. There's my short part and cut from longer. I'm sorry from shorter to longer. Holding this straight up into the center of the section straight up towards the ceiling to this length right in the front, comb that forward. Check the lengths out. Think that's okay cuz I can cut this a little bit more in the front. All right, so once we've got that we're going to go through and take a parallel section. I have my center section and my first section that I'm adding to. I will comb those two into the center of both of those sections, cut that going from back to front, from shorter to longer. Get that done. Okay very good. Now I will remove my first section, my first guide that I cut. I'm going to go through and remove that. I no longer need it. I have a new guide now. I'll take my next section and do exactly the same thing, work from short in the back to long in the front.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. I will remove my second section. So now I have the third section and the last section on this side. I'll comb that straight up. There's my guide from the back. There we go. Cut that shorter to longer than the front. Now I'll go back, find my very first section that I took right here into the center, pin this other hair out of the way so I don't get confused. I will add my next section on the opposite side and go through and do exactly the same thing that I did on the right side. Now I'll go through and do that on the left using my center guide to walk my guide all the way to their left side.   Blending and Sculpting So to work on my blend, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is a wood grain so it's a wood look finish and I really like it. I think it looks very cool. You can also use all three different types of blades on it: the Texturizing, the Standard or the R-Type. I am using the R-Type Blade so I get a little bit more blade exposed so I can cut a little cleaner. So from here we're going to hold this straight out. There's my line in the back and I'll just start razoring from short to long in the front just like I was doing on the top. I want to do this little bit right here on the sides to make sure everything blends through. There pull my next section. I will probably not have a whole lot of hair reach and I don't so we'll take a little bit of that off right through there. That's looking pretty good. A little sculpture cutting right through there to make sure I take some of the weight out and have a nice blend. When I do this it's a very gentle laying of the razor on the surface of the hair to remove some weight from it, remove some solidity and I think that that's looking like a pretty good blend through there. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side from here. Okay that's looking pretty good. I want to go through and just clean this line up here in the front, not a lot but just clean that up a little bit. Take a long stroke to take out weight as I cut my length right there, a little bit right through there. Here we're not taking off any length. I'm just going to add a little bit of texture to soften that up and we need a little bit more over here. All right, I'm thinking this shape is looking pretty good. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Final Men's French Crop Cut Haircut Here's our finished look. I think we got a really nice kind of taper. One thing I will say is when you're doing a taper, especially when you're practicing on a mannequin head you're not going to like it while you're doing it. You're going to freak out, but wait till you wash it and wait till you get it dry before you can really judge it completely. It takes a little time to dial it in and to get your hand motions right, but we got a nice little taper. We got it blended through the crown really properly so it has a nice head shape to it. It's not the anti-head shape where it's flat and collapsed in the back. You got a nice little solid top and we've got this lad kind of look in the front where it's straight across but still has a little bit of texture. And I think that this really surmises the French crop in that it's solid, soft and short on the sides with a little bit of texture in the front. So add this to your repertoire practice and it's just skills that you need to have in your arsenal and this is really a straightforward haircut that's very versatile that you can use on a lot of different hair types and a lot of different hair textures and thicknesses. So there we go. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. If you're looking for men's haircut ideas, the French crop is good one. Crop fade haircuts are popular among men all over the world. Learning how to do a mens crop haircut requires precision and proper technique since it shows all flaws. Using various tools to achieve seamless crop cut hairstyles, you can create a masterpiece of your own! Tutorial
Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial

Tutorial

Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial

In this soft undercut tutorial short hair look we use three tools to create the final style: clippers, a Feather Plier Razor and Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC. All three tools have their important purposes and contribute to the final look in different ways. Follow along with the video tutorial and the transcript below.   Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial:   Welcome to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on an undercut, but we're going to do a short undercut, a pixie undercut. Keep it from being so full on thick hair, still make sure it's got some movement some style and some grace. So check it out. Let's get started. Diving right in because I forgot to hit record on the underneath part but luckily it's an easy part to explain.   The Undercut So I took from the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part down to the nape area and I rounded that out a little bit on both sides so I don't end up with a fat little point in the middle. From there I took my clipper with a number five attachment, hit on and just cut everything underneath off and very short. It's all the same length. Everything off underneath here, just buzz it short to get it out of the way. So after we've cut everything underneath short and clean, I'll take the guard attachment off. I'll take my comb and now I'm just going to go through and around the edges of the hairline fit that in. So I'll put the comb in angle it out a little bit so it's really short around the edges of the hairline and I work that up and out and blend. I'm not going to recut everything up to here. I'm just fitting it in a little closer near the hairline. So this is just tapering that in just a little bit closer. You can certainly go through and use smaller guards to fit that in a little cleaner as well but we're just going to show you options. So after I've got that fitted in we're going to come here into the nape and do the same sort of motion where I'm just tapering that in just right around the hairline. And I think when you go through and you do a little bit of tapering, even though it's not necessarily a massive amount, I think it does add a little more elegance to the haircut overall as opposed to it just being all the same length underneath. So it differentiates me from other people or for someone doing it at home. So it also adds a little style, a little bit of elegance, a little bit of fine tuning and sometimes it's just that extra 10% that really makes a haircut pop and look truly professional. The Pixie Portion So when I go and cut the top I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. Now the Feather Plier Razor is a guardless razor. It doesn't have a guard. It has a super sharp blade so be a little careful, but it gives me the most control over how much hair I remove, where I remove it from and how precise the shape is that I apply to it. So this is my weapon of choice for cutting the top. Alright so now we've sectioned off the top. I've sectioned from where the quarter part would be right at the crown. I've sectioned out the front from the back of the head. We're going to start right in the middle and I'm going to take me a little pie section and make sure it's not too thick. And I'm going to hold this out at an angle. I want this top part of the section to be held at that elevation so I can graduate it. Make sure everything comes out. I know I'm going short here so I'm going to take my Feather Plier Razor and start with a very very broad stroke and cut that up and out. And I think that that length once it bounces up is probably going to be pretty good. Now once I put a little bit more texture into this internally it will make it feel a little shorter as well. So before texture I leave it a little longer. After texture it will make it feel a little shorter. Close my razor. Take the next part. I'm going to pivot out of the center and add the next section in. Again, not too thick. If the sections get too thick then the razor has to push through it and I end up with a line that's not very clean or consistent. Open my guard again, there's my guide underneath, take that up and out. And I'm taking a pretty broad stroke to make sure I maintain that soft kind of texture to it. If I need to put layering in it then we'll do that a little bit later. And I'm just going to continue this pivoting right here in the crown and walking my guide around the head. And I think we're looking pretty good so far. Check that out, see how that's looking. I think that's looking pretty good. Now going through and taking a vertical section will force it to separate into vertical pieces. If I was to go through and take this horizontally then it would build up a much more solid line. So after I've done this side I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Okay now we're coming to the last section on the opposite side and I'm still continuing to cut up from the bottom to the top. Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Make sure we got everything dialed in there lengthwise around the perimeter. Now let's check the other side. So we're going to start here with the center part on top. We're going to separate it left and half sides. Then I'm going to go through and take a vertical section off of the center part using the guide in the back and I'm going to hold this vertically and continue my angle of graduation that I had from underneath, still taking a nice broad razor stroke working from the back into the front. If I want the front to get longer, then once I hit the ear I'll start to pull everything back to that. If I want to maintain everything kind of being equal, I can certainly continue to walk my guide. Next section, holding it out vertically, there's my guide that's falling out, taking vertical sections continuing that through. Now I've noticed that the razor starts to catch in the hair a little bit and I'm drying out so I'm going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to help smooth the hair out and make it easier for my razor to cut. Continuing my vertical sections, not taking sections that are too thick. There's my guide falling out. That's much better. Slides much better through the hair. Comb that down. I want that hitting right about the middle of the ear which is going to be right at the nose. Doesn't have to be perfect you know. I just want to make sure I get in the general vicinity of the proper length that I'm going for. Next section, pull to the ear so I leave a little bit of extra length in the front that I may cut off but at least I'll leave it there just in case I want to do something with that. Yeah I think a little more length is going to work out well. Take the last section, bring that back to the ear as well. Not much is going to reach from her previous layers that she had around the front. Now we've got that. There we go. Now we can start to see some separation popping in because we've been taking vertical sections. After I've cut both sides it's going to leave me a little bit of a point in the front. Now I don't want this much of a point because I think it's going to become too exaggerated so I'm going to round this out a little bit more and take a little bit of the weight out. So I'll take the entire thing, pull that forward and go through and do a deep channel cut as I'm cutting the length right here at the very front at the same time. It's going to not only remove the thickness and the weight of it, but it's also going to cut some of that length off. I'll go through and do my initial pass. I'll go through and do what I think needs to be done and then I'll go back and look at it and see if I need to take any more out or take any more length off. This haircut has a lot of visual elements to it and I have to determine that those visual elements if they fit as I go. I can't just hit it once and move on. I have to fine-tune the shape with each pass and with each cut according to her hair texture, their thickness, their growth pattern, their waves and what my end result what I think looks good to my eye. I think that's looking pretty good. So let's blow it dry take a look and see what we got. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Reducing Fluff Alright. So we finished blowing dry and I think the basic shape looks pretty good. It's very pixie like. It's nice and short underneath so it keeps it from really bulking out, but I think it needs a little bit more pop to it. I think it's still a little bit too fluffy. So what I'm going to go through and do is I'm going to take my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest blade I got and I'm going to go through and do some really deep channel cutting and be very very aggressive with this to get this hair to separate more in pieces so it becomes less product dependent and I can still get that aggressive separation. So I'm not going to take any sections. I'm just going to comb the hair straight down put the blade in about halfway and just go through and chew some big separations between this. So not only will this remove a little bit of weight, but it's also going to give me a much more aggressive separation and I think make it look a little bit edgier and have a little bit more pop to it. There we go. I'm liking that better. Be careful. Don't go through and get too aggressive in areas that you don't want. Just pay attention. Gently apply. You can always add more but you can't take it out once you put it in. So be mindful of that and I think that right through there a little bit. Right through there. I like that better. Final Look of this Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a lot of texture to it and for as thick as this mannequin head is for it to not be so bulbous and full and still have some separation and movement to it, it is quite showing of the technique of undercutting it and then having enough hair to lay over it and putting a lot of texture to it. So let us know what you think. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
The Chelsea Haircut Reimagined for a Modern Look

Tutorial

The Chelsea Haircut Reimagined for a Modern Look

Are you familiar with the Chelsea haircut? The Chelsea cut was a popularized counterculture punk haircut that women and men wore in the 70s and 80s. The look back then was a combination of a shaved head with longer hair in the front. Often associated with skinheads, the Chelsea haircut history actually has no political roots and was aimed more at being different and not adhering to the beauty standards of the time. 80s female hairstyles back then were glamorous, long and big. This British haircut was a stark contrast to the hairstyles seen on magazines. In this video, learn how to create a modified Chelsea haircut. Instead of a shaved head punk look, we're leaving the hair longer in the back for a softer look, but still keeping the overall structure of this England hairstyle. Hence, this modern punk hair look. Follow along with the Chelsea haircut video tutorial and transcript below.   The Chelsea Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a reimagining of the early 80s hardcore Chelsea. We're going to bring it up into the new Millennia. We're going to add a little bit of Japanese texture to it. We're going to still make it clean and hard and edgy but yet a little softer at the same time. Anyway, let's get started. So the whole idea behind the Chelsea originally was that it was a middle finger to the fashion industry because the fashion industry and the beauty standards at the time, you know, in the early 80s was this glamorous bodacious cosmopolitan kind of post disco glamour where everything was super tan, super long, super hot rollered, makeup all the way to the hill and that was what the beauty standard that was being pushed was. And the Chelsea and the punk rock you know movement was really a revolt against all of that. And it was like oh from the front I got this hair but then in the middle it's all buzzed off and shaved and then I got a little hair in the nape. And I think that the iconic you know nature of that haircut is what really caused it to stick around for all these years. So we're going to go through and do a modern interpretation of that. So first thing, let's section out the front section. We're going two flat sections right here to where the bang section would be. Section to right behind the ear and then we're going to take occipital bone to the mastoid or less depending upon the shape that you're going for. And then all this hair in the middle is what we're going to cut really really short. So all of this center section we're going to go through and section out where the crown is and take that to the top of the ears so that way I can get my shortest part separated.   Addressing the Back and Front of the Chelsea Haircut I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor and I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade gives the most exposed blade, so it gives me the ability to cut more hair and get a cleaner cut. We're going to tilt everything down so we can see. I'm going to take a section right in the middle. Now classically, all this hair would just be buzzed short, but since we're doing a softer more modern interpretation of this, I am going to take this short. But I'm not going to buzz it. So I'm going to hold that up and I'm going to push everything down and see where the hair starts to bend and right there at the end of that first bend is the length that I'm going to go through and cut it. Check my length there. Looks good. If anything is too long I'll just thumb that off. So now we've got our shortest piece. So I will hold that 90 degrees from the head. There's my short piece right there and we will go through and cut that down and through. And I'm just cutting everything the same length all the way down right now. We're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Now if you noticed I cut inside out on both sides. That way I get the same sort of movement on both sides. Using my guide length cutting that down and all the way through seeing how that falls. And I'm liking that so far. I like that a lot. Okay so now I'm going to go through on my front section, take a parallel to my previous section that was right in the middle. Here's my first section. Here's my next section. I'll do that on both sides. First section still being pulled at the same elevation in the same angle, but now I'm pulling all the hair back into that guide right in the middle. Check that out. That looks pretty good and then just work that all the way down by continuing to pull everything into the center until I run out of hair. Everything pulled to the quarter part in the middle, the previous cut section. When your guide falls out, cut that down and through. Got a little long right there. So I'll go through, check that length. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now we're going to take our last section here on the top. Pull everything back, follow that original guide cutting from the center out towards the edges. You certainly see we cut that quite short through there and that's the whole look of it. We want a shocking amount of length difference so that we can really really make a statement. Keep going until we run out of hair there. That's looking pretty good. Now if we look at that I'm liking that quite a bit. Now we're going to go back. I'm going to take my original center parting. So here's the first parting right through here. I'm going to take a parallel parting of my hair from behind the quarter part. Now from here I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing I was doing before where I'm pulling everything into my original parting that I cut my original length to. So in the front I pulled back. So in the back I'm going to pull forward. Here's the length right there. It's falling out. Cut everything that same length and work that from the middle until I run out of hair. Continuing on the other side, everything from the center pulling to that original guide. And we got that. I'm going to continue on until I run out of hair. We've got all of the center part of our haircut done. We've pulled everything to the quarter part and got everything nice and short.   Reducing the Blend If I'm happy with this I can move on, but I think what I'm going to do is we've got a pretty good buildup of length going to here and I think I need less of a blend through there. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go through and take a vertical section and change the angle on that. So instead of it gradually increasing in length I'm going to keep everything the same length all the way around the back. So we're going to start here. There's my guide length there in the crown. And I'm going to continue 90 ° from the head all the way down into the nape where I reach the very top of my parting at the occipital bone. There we go. Now we've got instead of increasing in building up length I have maintained the same length all the way down from the crown through the nape. From here, I'll pivot. Follow the same pattern, pull everything 90 °, find my guides, cut that down and through until I reach the top of my parting in the nape which is pinned out of the way for safety's sake so I don't end up cutting that. We'll keep going until we run out of hair. Keep that one out of the way. Come on.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There I like that. I like that better. That's got a lot more pop to it. It's a little bit more dynamic. So we have this complete disconnection of our short hair into the nape. So it kind of makes this righteous kind of mullet shape. And while I love the fact that it is so disconnected I want to go through and soften that up just a little bit.   Blending Around the Nape So I'm going to go through and visually add some blend so that it's not so severe of a cut off. I think if I was to buzz this shorter and go for the classic Chelsea it's fine, but for this I'm trying to modernize it to make a softer more approachable kind of look. Okay so from here I'll take a center section. Take it vertical. You can see the severity of the disconnect so I'm just going to go through and very gently give me a little bit of a blend. I'm not worried about it blending like completely perfectly. I still want to keep that real severe kind of mud flap going on in the back. Take my next section. I'm not even going to look at my previously cut guide. I'm only looking at the short piece of where I'm coming from and then the length of where I'm going to and trying to go through and add a little bit of blend through there so I get a little bit of softness and separation through there. And then the same thing, get that little piece up there where it belongs. The same thing on the very last section on this side. I think what I need to do is put a little bit of channel cutting into this to really add a little bit more separation so that while my mud flap still has some blend, I want more separation to it. And you see by putting that vertical texturing, that separation, how it instantly forced the shape to collapse and now it's a lot more head hugging which I like better. So I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I'm liking that quite a bit. Blunt Bangs and Hair in Front Okay so now here around the front I'm going to separate my bangs. Let's go through and cut these really really blunt. Since everything else is so soft in this haircut with so much texture from the razor let's make this bang, this fringe very hard and make it the focal point of the entire haircut. So I'm going to comb everything clean from the roots all the way down. I'm going to plant my fingers and then gently clamp with zero tension and then going through and using my Jatai Osaka Scissor, it's the sharpest scissor I got with a nice fat heavy blade so I can really get some power behind it. I'm going to cut everything nice and clean and blunt right there across her forehead. There is my fringe section. Cut that solid across. And I don't want it to get longer so I need to change the angle of my fingers. I'll get a rough shape into it and then once I finish the rough shape and blow it dry, then I'll go through and clean it up. After I've got the bangs cut, I'm going to go through and take the entirety of the left side comb everything down. You can see my short little separation right here. My finger is going to match where I want that to fall in the front and then a little shorter gradually getting a little longer going towards the front so it hugs right there at the chin, right at the jawline. Now let's do the same thing or try to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I think we might have got lucky and got it on the first shot. Don't speak too soon though, but I like the way that's hitting the chin. Ouch! I'm going to go buy a lottery ticket. It's actually even. I'm pretty happy with that. Now at this point let's blow it dry, take a look at it and see what we got. Final Look of the Chelsea Haircut Here's our end result. I think it looks pretty cool. I think it looks pretty, a re-imagined version of an early 80s hardcore Chelsea. Softens it up a little bit, adds a little bit of you know modernity to it keeps it soft but yet still edgy. There's always a juxtaposition between styles when it comes to a Chelsea. You got this hard clean front and then this wild Japanese textured in the back and I think that that works well for the right person. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make your better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Florence Pugh Short Hair Tutorial: Create a Beautiful Textured Bob

Tutorial

Florence Pugh Short Hair Tutorial: Create a Beautiful Textured Bob

Take a look at this Florence Pugh short hair tutorial. After shaving her head for a movie role, Florence made a statement with her buzz cut at the 2023 Met Gala. As she was growing it out, you could see in various Getty images and other shots of her at Paris Fashion Week she decided to slick back her short hair. And in 2024 with her hair being a bit longer, she showcased her short blonde androgynous style at the Golden Globes. Needless to say, Florence has experimented with a variety of bold hairstyles where she purposefully chose a shaved head to more feminine bob styles. This is what we love about Florence! Her beauty shines through all her styles. Since growing out her buzz cut, she now has long enough hair to have a bob. In this video, we take stab at a Florence Pugh bob haircut she debuted at the Oscars which has a lot of texture and movement. Whether it's looking for cuts for growing out short hair, recreating this beautiful bob or simply learning more texturing techniques, this Florence Pugh haircut will teach you something. Follow along with the video tutorial and transcript.   Florence Pugh Short Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a study on celebrity Florence Pugh's bob that she wore to the Oscars. This was a grow out haircut for her that she had worn after she had buzzed her head for Oppenheimer. And I think it was elegant and graceful and modern beautiful, all the good stuff. So let's get started. If we look at the bob that she had worn, you know it was kind of a little bit past her chin. Uh a little bit of layering in it to keep the shape round, but she was growing this shape out so it's obvious that it's going to be a little shorter on the top as she's growing it out. And I think that this shape was really really pretty and it was more of a study of texture than it is just a bob. Because if we do just a bob and layer it a little bit it can tend to look really really frumpy. So we have to put a lot of texture in it to make it look modern.   Point Cutting the Length So the first thing I want to do is take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That gives me all the hair and the flat part of the back of the head that builds my foundation for length for the shape. I'm going to take a center section, comb that right down in my fingers through there and then determine where I want that length to be. And I'm thinking about right there should be good and I will go through and point cut this from left to right. And then to make it more neutral, I'll go right to left because we know when hair is longer on one side than the other, that's the way it shifts. So I want to make this as neutral as possible. Now we'll take our next section on this side. Uh oh. Don't comb the parting out. Follow that down. There's my line and we're going to go through and point cut that. And you can start to see where this line is going to fall as I get around the front of the face, and I will cut this back and forth to make those little point cuts as neutral as possible. Same thing on the other side. Now if you don't want to go through and point cut this in both directions. I get it. You don't have to but my neurosis I would stay up night thinking about that I didn't cut it as neutral as possible. As I'm point cutting I want a weighty or more solid scissor so I'm using my Jatai Osaka Scissors. This has a nice point, but it's also got a really solid heavy blade so that as I point cut it takes less effort on my part to get a nice clean point cut through it. Once I get both sides even and I got this line the length that I want and the texture that I want, I'm going to now go through and take parallel sections all the way up the head until I run out of hair and cut everything all one length. If you want to see that in more detail check out the Jatai Academy. We have a one length bob tutorial that would be perfect for showing you all the intricacies and the ins and outs of how to do a one length bob very very well. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Alright, that's our last piece. We got everything one length like we want. We got a nice clean line all the way around. Start right down the middle.   Florence Pugh Short Hair Round Layering Going to take a mohawk section. I'm going to pull this first section up. And this little bang part that we had previously cut, it's going to fall out and here I want to look at where it's going to fall in relation to her face and I think about the chin is probably a good length and we're looking at about right there. So I'm going to go through and point cut that layering right through there. Now I'm going to keep this layering pretty round on the top and especially around the face, but I'm not going to put a lot of layering in the back. So as I reach this next section which is the high point of the head, that's going to be the last part where I start to follow the head shape and mimic the head shape in my layering. From here I will start to get longer, but I'm still going to hold that section. Come on baby. I'm still going to... oh come on. I know you don't want to get cut, but it's okay. I want to hold that and then angle my fingers away from the head so that my length gets longer as I go towards the back. I'm not going to over direct because then that's going to give me inconsistent weight distribution. The last section here, pull up. You can see my previously cut guide there and then I'm just going to round that out just a little bit right through there. Now we've got our layering guide for both sides. From here I'm going to take a parallel section to my center mohawk little section, and I'm going to continue the same guide that I was working with before by pulling everything into the center of the head. So this is being pulled into the center and following my previously cut guide. Working that all the way back and through. Very little to cut through there. Now I'm just going to take the last section, pull everything up into the center where my previously cut guide was. So it's all going to be held right here in the center of the face and anything that hangs over, which is not a lot, I'm going to cut off. Oops! Oh so close. I almost had it. Pulling everything right into the center of the head following my previous guide, very little reaches if any. Come on. Perfect. So after I finish the layering (I'm on the left side), I'm going to take my center guide and do the same thing on the other side. Now she had already had a little bit of bang cut around the front. So I'm going to go through and section the side out which is the first bump of the head right to the high point of the hairline over the ear. I'll do that on both sides. So basically all I want to do with this is take that little corner off right here around the front. So I'm going to pull this straight down, angle my fingers and then change a little bit of that angle so we have a little bit better blend with our layering around the front. I'm not trying to take my corner off here. I still want a good solid shape there but taking this around the front will make it easier to push back especially as it blends in with the side. Take the rest of the hair on this side, comb that down. Anything that hangs over from that angle that we had previously cut, take that off. Same thing on the face framing on the other side.   Razor Cutting for Texture So now let's go through and add some texture. The most important part to keep this from looking kind of dated and old. Alright, so we've started back at the beginning and this is the same section I started out with initially to cut my one length. This is how I'm going to apply my texture throughout the entirety of the haircut and keep it as consistently as possible. I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a razor with no guard so I have to be mindful and careful with that and respect the blade, but it will give me the cleanest cut and the most control. So we're going to section off right in the center like I was doing before. I'm going to comb that into the middle. Now I'm going to come through and about halfway through and down. Go through and channel cut each section so I can force separation into it and only thin about halfway down to the ends. I'm not going to go all the way deep into the root and risk losing control of the root movement. And I'm also not going to go through and texturize every section within this, every piece of hair within this section, because I still want to maintain a blunt shape. I just want that internal texture to lighten it up and give it a lot more movement. Starting in the center again about halfway through and down, trying to not pick up my previously cut hair. Pull that out and through. Channel that through. There we go. We're looking good. Okay moving up the head, following the same pattern, creating texture in the last half of each section, trying not to pick up previously cut hair.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Okay here we come to the very last section and I'm trying to still be as methodical as possible and be patient and take my time and get it as consistent as I can.     Final Look of this Florence Pugh Short Hair Look So let's blow it dry and see how we look. You look fabulous girl. Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think we got the texture right. I think we got the shape right. The length is pretty good. You know she doesn't have an ear so we had to put a little pin there to keep it behind her ear, but I think the shape's pretty good and I think the texture is right. The razor gives a texture that no other tool can mimic and it's something that you really should add to your repertoire skills so that when you need something like that it's there for you. Just a little bit of practice is all it takes. Check out the Jatai Academy. There are all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you. Thank so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Final Thoughts on this Florence Pugh Short Hair Tutorial Florence likes to challenge norms and trends and wear rebel hairstyles. Growing out buzz cut can leave hair in some funny lengths. You can look at Florence Pugh's various styles for ideas on haircuts for growing out short hair. While you can't really make your hair grow out faster, you can gracefully mold your hair into fun and attractive styles. This is one of those haircuts to grow out short hair that still looks amazing.   Tutorial
Layered Lob with Wispy Bangs Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Layered Lob with Wispy Bangs Haircut Tutorial

In this layered lob with wispy bangs haircut tutorial, Russell Mayes, Director of Content for Jatai, teaches some easy to understand and useful techniques for how to create a blunt bob shape but with internal texture on straight hair. This techniques used in this video are best for thick hair and not necessarily thin hair or fine hair. Long bob hairstyles can be complemented with curtain bangs, side swept bangs, choppy bangs or in this case wispy bangs. Or you can have no bangs at all. The versatility and options are endless. Long bob haircuts can be made into curly bobs, angled bobs or layered bobs. Lobs work with many face shapes and different hair colors. The blonde bob style is very popular on Instagram and other social media platforms. Whatever length bob you're going for, the techniques used in this video could apply. Watch this layered lob with wispy bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below. Layered Lob with Wispy Bangs Tutorial:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a lob with bangs. Now long bobs with bangs can tend to get boring and look kind of broom-ish if the hairs too thick. So I'm going to show you how to add some invisible internal texturizing to keep that from happening and also we're going to do a little whisper of a bang. So let's get started. We're going to start with a natural or center part that's going to go all the way to the crown, from the crown to the occipital bone, occipital bone straight to the bone right behind the ear which is the mastoid. I'm going to separate that. That's going to give us our baseline in the nape. From here we're going to separate this in half parallel to my previous parting here which is the occipital to the mastoid.   Establishing the Perimeter of the Layered Lob with Wispy Bangs So the first thing I want to do is establish my strong perimeter shape for my lob. This is going to give me a nice clean line that I can build the rest of the haircut off of and make sure I get the sides even. So trying to get this as blunt as possible. I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest scissor that I have and it works really really well for cutting blunt lines especially if you have really really thick hair. So we're going to start right in the middle, comb that down clean and smooth and I like a lob that hits right about at the collar bone. So I will visualize where that's going to hit in the front because it's going to be a little longer in the front because of my parting. And so I will visualize about right there. I keep my fingers curled down not curled up and cut this as blunt as possible. After I get that cut and I like that length I will move on to the left side and comb this T to my parting. So there's my parting. The hair is going to make like a little T. Comb everything down and smooth. There's my line. Cut that down and through and then the same thing on the other side and as long as my partings are the same and I follow my fingers parallel to the parting and T to the part I should be able to get this pretty even on the first pass. So after we cut both sides I'm going to comb it down and check it and I got a little longer on the left side. So much for keeping it even on both sides. So we're going to comb this down again make sure that I'm square. There it is right there. I had my fingers at the wrong angle and there we go. That should be perfect. Now depending upon the thickness of the hair I may want to start adding texture here or building a more solid baseline. The more thicker the hair is the faster that I can start to introduce texturizing to keep it from looking like a broom. So her hair is you know fairly medium, medium thick and so what I want to do is I'm going to go in between. So I'm going to add a little bit of texture and softness to it but not a lot. The way I'm going to do that is by point cutting. So I'm going to comb this section down, find my guide. Now I'm going to go through and point cut that line. Now when I point cut the line I'm not going shorter than my previously cut guide. I want to make sure that the deepest part of my point cut is where my previously cut line was and then the hair gets longer from that. I don't want to go through and recut my baseline by point cutting all the way into it because then it makes no difference if I've cut it blunt or not. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather Point cut that on top of my previously cut guide. Be patient. Make sure it's nice and even. This is going to give me a little bit of softening and a little bit of texture and give me a transition between my blunt cut and my texture cut. You notice that I'm cutting from the center to the front of the hairline around the face on both sides. I'm not cutting from right to left on every section. I want to cut from center forward on every section. Being patient, fine-tuning making sure I get the line just like I want. So here's our next section. We took about an inch. We're going to continue that same size section throughout the rest of the head and that way I can keep everything as consistent as possible.   Adding Invisible Internal Texturing Now we're going to go through and we're going to add our internal texturing that's going to be invisible to the overall shape but is going to give me a lot of internal softening and movement and it's going to bevel the shape quite a bit and that's what we're going for. So I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor. So now we've got our section. I'm going to go through and comb this down. I'm going to remove my baseline that was blunt cut. I have a guide from my previous section that was point cut. I'm going to hold this straight down and then from here I'm going to fillet this section and put my texture internally. Now I'm doing about the last 2 to 2-1/2" of the section and by filleting, I mean I'm laying the blade directly across the entire section and just gently taking that off until I get the length cut. Next section. I'll take a small piece as my guide. There we go. There's my guide from underneath. I'm going to go about 2-1/2" internally, fillet that through. The reason I'm not going to go through and cut vertically going into it is I don't want the separation. I just want the softness that the texturizing adds. I don't want the increased movement or separation. So comb that down. Last two inches a very gentle application of the razor. Let the motion of the blade cut the hair not the pressure that you're applying. Now you'll notice that I've left my previously cut baseline out. That way I maintain my solid perimeter shape and I only put my texturizing internally. If it happens to cut a little bit of the guide from underneath it's not my entire baseline. It's just that previously cut section that I went through and point cut. Okay that's looking pretty good. So now we've got a layer of internal texturizing that's going to soften up and bevel my shape.   Remaining Sections of the Layered Lob with Wispy Bangs The next section I'm going to go through again with my Kyoto Scissors and cut a nice blunt clean line. So I will alternate the types of tools that I use by each section that I go up the head. So I can maintain a blunt lob shape but also get that internal texturizing to make the shape bevel and flow and move more naturally. Let's go to the other side. T to my parting every section. Give us a thumbs up, click suGive bscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Let's check and see how we're looking and that's looking pretty even and I like that. We've got a nice softening effect from our first two layers of texture by the point cutting and the razor. And now we're going to continue on as I move up the head. This section is usually where the thickest part of the hair is. It's either going to be the nape or the crown sometimes both. And so I want to make sure that this doesn't get real heavy but also I run into the problem of I have no hair on the side of the head. So I'm actually going to use two tools on this same section. Now I'm going to start right in the middle. I'm going to remove the previously cut hair and I'm only going to hold the previous guide in my hand. That way I comb everything straight down. There's the previously cut guide. I'm going to take my razor, a long filleting type of stroke to take that length and weight out and I'll continue that as I start to work towards the side. Make sure I'm still holding everything at zero elevation as I cut that down and through. Feel like I got a little shorter in there so take a little of that out. Now as I come to the ear I'm going to take where the quarter part would be and separate that out. Take a small piece as my guide. So now I have the back half of the head. There's my previously cut guide. Go through cut that length off. I'm pretty happy with that. Now I'm going to move into my Kyoto Scissors because here I want to maintain a really solid perimeter shape and if I razor it , it's not going to have that same solidity as it transitions from the back to the front. Comb everything down. Allow the hair to release for whatever the ears sticking out. There's my line from the back. Cut that down and through. And I can see where that would start to hit right at about where her collar bone would be. And I'm pretty happy with that. Now I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. But I'm going to follow the same methodology that I was using before which is take my section in the center, remove the previously cut hair, only keep one section as your guide, comb that all the way through evenly down at zero elevation. There's my line. Razor that off. Okay and then follow the same thing all the way around to the side. There we go. Last section here. Remove some the guide. I don't need all of it. I just need to know where the general length is. Comb that down and through. There's my line right there and then go through and fillet that length off. Now I'm just going to continue to alternate blunt section, razor section, blunt section, razor section until I get to the top. And on the top, I want to always make sure I end on a blunt section that way it hides any kind of texturizing and layering that I put internally by it being blunt underneath and blunt on the top. So the layers that get sandwiched in between they disappear. So I get the effect of the razoring and the beveling without the appearance of the razor and the texture.   Whisper or Wispy Bangs Now I want to go through and add a little whisper of a bang. I don't want a real solid blunt bang to make it look super 60s. I want kind of a modern whisper of a bang where it looks like hair is just kind of just broken off maybe around the front. That's a terrible way to describe it, but that's what it looks like. It's just like little whispers of something hanging out around the front. So let's go through and take our fringe section which is going to be the center of the recession to the first bump of the head and that's where all the hair has the ability and the tendency to fall in the person's face. So here's our fringe section. Now let's go through and I'm going to separate corner to corner right across the front. Now I'm going to start right here in the middle and what I want to do is do a really extreme angle you know because most bangs are blunt or at a little angle like that. But I want to do a really extreme angle so I'm going to take right where the hair wants to separate and take my Feather Styling Razor hold that down and start right here where I think I want my little bangs to start and then just real gently go through and take that all the way really extreme. So I end up with just a little something here in the front but not a real solid bang. Now I'll do the same thing on the other side. Hold that down and forward. There's my little guide piece then just real gently go through and try to keep the same razor stroke that I had on the other side to hopefully that they'll match a little bit. So I'm going to take the rest of the hair bring that down and then just gently anything that I think hangs out way too much I'm going to cut that off. Following the same pattern that I was doing before same kind of methodology just to give me a whisper in the center more than a full-blown kind of fringe or bang. I think that's pretty good. Now after it's dry, I may go through and fine-tune that a little bit more, but I will let the hair be the guide and show me what to do. We've got a nice solid bob lob shape that doesn't have that broom effect from the hair being too thick. So it's got a little bit of bevel, but it doesn't really show a whole lot of texture to it because that's hidden by the top layer being real solid. And we got a... yeah it looks pretty good. I like that. We got a nice little whisper of bang around the front, not anything too crazy. Just more like you know it just grew this way, just a natural elegance that I think looks pretty good. I like that a lot. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There are all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future, and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching.   Tutorial
Wide Mohawk Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Wide Mohawk Haircut Tutorial

There are many different mohawk hairstyles such as a wide mohawk haircut, mohawk fade haircuts, mohawk burst fade, short mohawks, long mohawks, curly mohawks and more. The mohawk style changes in look by how the hair is cut on the sides and the length of the hair down the middle that comprises the mohawk. You can have shaved sides, a low fade or taper fade on the sides. The mohawk hair length is often determined by how thick the hair is. If it's thin, it's best to have short hair. But with thick hair, you can have longer hair. Styling the mohawk also contributes to the style, which can make it more modern or edgy. Mohawks can be on straight or curly hair. And why not pair a mohawk haircut with a touch of hair color. The possibilities are vast. In this educational tutorial you will learn how to create a softer version of a wide mohawk using scissor over comb and a Feather Plier Razor. Watch this wide mohawk haircut tutorial below and follow along with the transcript below. Wide Mohawk Haircut Tutorial: Welcome to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes Director of Content for Jatai. Today we're going to be doing a wide Mohawk. We're going to show you how to make the mohawk softer, how to make it harder, how to make it in between, basically how to make it more you. So let's get started. We have our Mohawk sectioned out, and I tried to get it as even on both sides as I could. And I wanted to keep this wide. Now I have a lot of variation and there's a lot of different things that you can do on this depending upon what kind of look you're going for. I want something wide so I'm going from right at the corner of the eyes on the outer part all the way back down to the tendon and the neck. I want to try to keep that as straight through as I can and try to match that on both sides. Now from here I'm going to go through and I'm going to cut all of this off and again you have a lot of variations on how you can deal with this hair. We're going to start from something that's going to be very soft and then we can go to something that's going to be very hard. So the harder that the end result is the more edgier that the look is going to be. This is going to be a very edgy look regardless of how you cut it, but sometimes the hair demands a little softness in the cut. Sometimes it demands that it's a little harder because the hair is a little frizzy or fuzzy and the harder textures work best.   Scissor Over Comb So let's start with just some basic scissor over comb. So I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is a nice long skinny blade that makes it perfect for doing scissor over comb type of work. Now when I have this much hair it's senseless for me to go through and start my scissor over comb trying to get everything smooth with this much hair so I need to remove it. I can do the very very methodical method where I'll take a vertical section and go through with my fingers and cut everything short. If I need to practice my traveling guide that's what I'll do. And that would look like this. So I'll take a vertical section at an angle, pull that out, finger length, support the blade, go through cut that straight up and down. And then my next section, the exact same size of parting as the first section. I comb these two together. Where that length is I'm going to follow that all the way through. Next section, same size as the original two sections, comb everything into the previously cut section, cut that down and through. And then I can practice my traveling walking guide from front to back. Or I could do the more crude method where I just hold it up and cut some of this length off. Since I'm going to be scissor over combing all of this length off anyway there's no sense in me trying to work through all of that if I don't need the practice. If I need the practice like on a mannequin head, definitely get the practice in. Now I'm going to start going through and scissor over combing, going shorter around my perimeter hairline gradually getting longer as I go up. Here I'll put my comb right in the crotch of my pinky and ring finger, thumb and forefinger on the spine and the teeth and then it's this twisting motion here. So I want to get into a rhythm going down and then up, down and up, down and up. And I'll start very close at the nape, at the bottom perimeter of the hairline and gradually get longer. I'm not getting real long as I go to the top. I just want a little bit longer as I go to the top of the section. And I'm not worried about how perfect this is right now. I'm just going through the motions of getting everything removed and starting to build in my fundamental shape. Now this is a very very crude shape but what it allows me to do is it allows me to start getting rid of the excess hair and start building in the type of tapering that I want. I don't want to look at this as just lay the comb against the head and cut everything the same length as the comb all the way up. I want to have a little bit of a design aesthetic. So I'm going to lightly taper it. So once I start to get the basic shape like I want, I have everything in the general vicinity of the length that I want. At that point, I will start to fine-tune my shape and fine-tuning my shape just means I'm going to go over and trace what's already there. So I'm going to try to make as repeatable as possible the exact same length. And sometimes I'll cut some hair and sometimes I won't. Sometimes it just glazes over and sometimes I get a little bit of hair to come off. And it's not a matter of me visually having to see hair come off. It's I'm looking at what's being left. That's the key thing. So I want to go through and make sure everything is as nice and as velvety smooth as I can possibly get.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Cleaning this up around the hairline a little bit more making sure that's nice and smooth and just go through. And anywhere that my eye visually sees something pop out, I want to go over and retrace that. Now I can hear you saying 'well why don't you just go through and use the clipper to buzz everything off' and I certainly could go through and do that and I have certainly done that many many times when the style and the aesthetic calls for it. If I use a clipper it's going to cut everything much more perfectly and the end result is going to be a much cleaner harder shape. So like I said, if the hair is fuzzy that cleaner harder edge works better. If the hair is not and I want something softer, then scissor over comb will give me a softness to it that I can't get from a clipper. And so I'm going to keep going over this until I have everything exactly like I want and as clean and as pristine as I care to do. Working the other side, we're going to work the clipper. It's the same thing I was doing with the scissor over comb, but this time the clipper. Just lay the comb in, angle the comb at whatever type of graduation that I want, run the clipper across the comb. Now when I run the clipper across the comb, I don't want to press the comb and make it move in. I just want to trace the comb with a gentle stroke across the teeth. I don't want to try to push it in. If I push it in, it gets shorter than I think it does and then everything ends up a little bit too short. So start here at the bottom working my way slightly longer as I get to the top of my parting. Make sure our sides are matching there. We've got a little bit right through there and the same kind of motion that I was doing with the scissor but this time using the clipper and it goes much faster which is good for time and good for speed. And it also gives me a stronger harder shape. How soft I want this shape will determine what type of method or technique that I'm using to get everything fit in nice and smooth.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Cutting the Mohawk Length We've gone through and taken a center section of our top all the way down through into the nape. I'm going to take this section. I'm going to pull it forward and up and out 90 ° from the head and I'm going to determine how short, where I want this to fall around the front. Determine where I want that section. Now I'm going to go through point cut that all the way through. Take a small piece as my guide. Take my next flat section hold that 90 ° from the head, point cut that all the way through, take a small piece as my guide 90 ° from the head. Now once I hit the crown I'm going to start to increase my length. So the crown is right here. I'm going to start to gently increase the length and as I get further into the back, that length is going to increase quite a bit. Still holding everything at 90 ° from the head. So I'm not dragging anything up, but I am increasing my length as I get down to the nape. 90 degrees there we go. Small piece is my guide. My next piece there's my length all the way down and through. So now we've increased the length, but we still have it nice and short up here on top. Now from here I'm going to comb the entire left side of the head into a combination of my first and second sections. Comb this up, follow my guide, original guide from the center of the head. Small piece is my guide. My next section held up at 90 again. There's my guide from the center. Comb that through and over, small piece as my guide. Once I reach the crown, remember my length increases so I look for that in my previously cut guide. And there it is right there still making sure that I'm holding everything as 90 as I can in the center of both of those two sections. Comb this up at 90, pull that through, follow that through. A small piece is my guide, center of both of those sections. There we go, cutting that through. That's looking pretty good. I like our length on top. We can still get that to stick up, but I like this length in the back as well. Now I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing on the other side.   Razor Cutting the Wide Mohawk Hair Now at this point I want to go through and use a razor. And since I'm using a razor, I'm going to use my Jatai Blade Glide just to give me a little bit of extra conditioning and to make sure that the blade glides through the hair and cuts really really evenly. So I'm going to start here at the bottom in the nape, take a horizontal section. Now I'm going to go through and use my Feather Plier Razor. It gives me the cleanest cut. It's a guardless razor so there's no guard. So I have to be careful to not cut myself, but this will allow me maximum control of where I put my texture in each section. So I'm going to comb this clean from the root all the way out and I want to go through and take out some of that weight and force these pieces to separate more tenderly. Take another horizontal section. Do not pick up the previously cut section from underneath. Comb this section out and down. Take my blade, go through create internal texture and separation with my Feather Plier. Next section. Work up. Do not pick up the underneath. And I'm just going to continue to do this until I reach the front run out of hair.   Final Look of the Wide Mohawk Aright, here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a little bit of curl in it to give it a little bit of bump and some separation. I got some clay into it to kind of give it some oomph to make it full and I think our shape looks pretty good. We got it nice and wide from the corner of the eyes all the way straight down to the nape which gives us this wide full shape that can handle the curl really well. You can certainly go straight and make it really really edgy and hardcore, but I think our shape looks pretty good. We got a nice little bit of curl to it and I'm very happy with that. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairdresser and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you again next time.   Wide Mohawk Hair Cut Final Thoughts Whether you want to create a high or low fade mohawk or more modern mohawk hair styles, the mohawk cut has been around for a long time. Always, known for being an edgier cut, most mohawk styles for men are done with shorter hair these days. Women can sport a mohawk as well, but it is much less common. With this tutorial, you can adjust your mohawk style for shorter hair down the middle and widen the mohawk even more for a more subtle mohawk style. There are many different styles for mohawks so get creative and enjoy the process.   Tutorial
Asymmetrical Haircut Male Tutorial Using Scissors and a Razor

Tutorial

Asymmetrical Haircut Male Tutorial Using Scissors and a Razor

In this asymmetrical haircut male tutorial, we'll guide you through creating a popular men's hairstyle that's perfect for any occasion. Combining scissor-over-comb techniques with razor cutting using the Feather Plier Razor, you'll learn how to blend different lengths seamlessly and add texture for a modern, edgy style. Asymmetrical haircuts and styles work well on all hair types from curly to straight as well as different thicknesses and textures. Mens asymmetrical hairstyles usually have one side that's a different length or uneven from the other. But this is intentional and makes the style more modern and edgy. Whether you're looking to refine your skills or try creating new hairstyles, this step-by-step guide offers clear instructions and practical hair care tips to help you achieve a precise, stylish cut. Follow along with the video and transcript below to learn how to create this asymmetrical men's haircut.   Watch this Asymmetrical Haircut Male Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be working on a short masculine shape that's asymmetrical. Gives you a lot of styling options, a lot of versatility and it works on a lot of different types of hair.   Addressing the Bottom Half of the Head with Scissor Over Comb So to get started what we're going to do is go through and separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. We're going to start at the center of the recession straight back to where a quarter part would be. To the top of the ear we're going to angle that down and section out the bottom where it gets flat. This is going to be the parietal ridge which separates the top from the bottom. Now I'm going to go through and start cutting this underneath short. So I'm going to take an angle that's going to be parallel to my front hairline which is also going to be parallel to the hairline behind the ear. Plant my fingers. Put my fingers in. I'm going to leave it a little longer at the top of the section and a little shorter underneath. And I'm using my Osaka Scissor from Jatai. This is a nice long solid blade that gives me a nice point but not too pointy that I poke myself. And the blade is nice and sharp. The sharper the blade is, the less it's going to push the hair in your hand. There's my line from underneath. Shorter at the hairline, a little longer at the top. Now again I'm not worried about this being absolutely perfect right now. I'm just following the pattern and getting this length cut off. Second section and my third section. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. And you can start to see my graduation developing. After I get to this section right here behind the ear where the mastoid is, then I can determine if I need to go shorter or if I've gone too short. So I'm looking at that and I think that that can definitely go a little bit shorter. So what I'm going to go through and do is I'm going to scissor over comb. I'm going to start low, cut that across. Go up about the width of the scissor, cut that short. Cut that short. Cut that short. And I'm working on creating the same type of shape I was cutting earlier which is shorter at the bottom longer at the top. Now I'm just doing it in my comb horizontally as opposed to in my hand which was vertically. The more scissor strokes that I take as I do my scissor over comb and the more I fine-tune it, the smoother that that will be. So now I want to change my approach because I'm going shorter than what my fingers will allow me. So I'm going to start here in the back. Take my first cut, my second cut, my third cut. Now I've removed a lot of that hair very very quickly and I can start to fine-tune my shape from there. As long as I don't cut too short it's easy to start to fine-tune. Come in at an angle. Scissor over comb that up and out. Now that I've got all that long hair cut off I'm going to go through and start to really fit in and fine-tune my scissor over comb shape. And a couple of key pointers: I'm going to start lower than I think. I'm going to make sure one blade is moving as I start low and then continue to fine-tune that up and out. Now I'm just going to continue to do this until I have the entire underneath tapered in.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Addressing the Drop Crown Using the Feather Plier Razor I've sectioned the top of the head into three. I've taken the quarter part which is going to separate the front from the back of the head. And I've also gone through since I felt like that was too much hair and too much head to worry about blending back here, I've taken the drop crown. This is going to section out all the hair that's going to blend in the back. So I'm going to take an angle that's parallel to my previous parting. Now I'm going to go through and use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guard-less razor, just a straight blade. It gives me the most control, the cleanest cut and it allows me to get delicate little sections that's hard to control with any other type of razor. Pulling this over to the side where I can see the underneath line and then I'll go through and cut that down and through. So now from here I'll just continue that on until I get about halfway to the center and run out of hair and do the same thing on the other side. Continue to pull that over. There's my line underneath. Take a nice broad stroke. The stroke that I take with the razor should be the same and as consistent as possible through every section of the back. Last section on this side. Pull that out and forward towards the previously cut hair. Take the same broad razor stroke I was doing to keep everything nice and soft. If I get a little longer here underneath, clean that up and that's not looking too bad. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side.   Addressing the Top Half of the Head Using a Feather Plier Razor Now whenever I'm cutting with the razor I always prefer to use Jatai Blade Glide over water. It makes the hair much easier to control and allows the blade to glide across the section to give me a cleaner cut. I'm going to go through and do the same thing I was doing in the back. As far as my section goes I'm going to take a parallel section to what was cut underneath. Comb that hair out of the way. Now from here I want to leave this front long. So I can already see I'm going from this is the short. So this is the long. If I need a guide around the front, I can go through and pull one of these sections out and say okay let's cut it about the chin. And say okay that's my section I'm cutting to. This is my section I'm cutting from. So when I angle my fingers I have a general idea of the angle that I need to cut. So I'll take the section, hold this straight out from the head. There's my hair underneath. I have a general idea of the angle that I need to cut and I will go through from short to long. Here in the front there is my piece I was cutting to. And that's not looking too bad. That's looking pretty good. Pull this out. There's my line underneath. A nice broad razor stroke to keep my line very very soft. I'll take my next section parallel and I'll just continue this until I run out of hair.   Give us a thumbs, up click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   So I'm going to cut this side here a little shorter especially around the front. So I want that instead of coming into here. I'm thinking I want that to come a little shorter and then come through to my long piece about in the middle of the head. There's my short piece. Cut that through. Now about the ear, I'm going to get a little longer in the front but not a whole lot on this first section. Continue on. Take a parallel section to my previously cut section and follow the guide from underneath.   Fine-Tuning & Styling the Asymmetrical Haircut Male Style Looking pretty good. Now with this type of shape I have a lot of variations of the way I comb it because I have one side that's long and if I want something very kind of emo I can comb everything from the short side over to the longer side. Or we could also comb the long side over the short side and because it's shorter underneath on this side, it's going to allow that hair to kick out and pop differently than if that side was really long too. So it works on both ways. Let's go through and blow it dry and then we'll talk about it. I'll comb it back and forth a couple of times to loosen that hair up so nothing gets kind of stuck down and then go through and just fine-tune that as much as I can or until my patience runs out or my next client shows up until I get it just perfect. Alright, that's looking pretty good through there. I think you need a little bit of product to kind of jelly in, but as long as it's clean over the ears and in the back you can really have a nice conservative looking shape that doesn't have to be just a short back and sides with the top cropped short. You can have a little bit of length. So for some guys that have a little bit of curl or a little bit of wave you can kind of fluff this up a little bit or you can comb it over to the other side and kind of have that pumped up a little bit. And with this short side it'll all look really really short. So this is a very very versatile shape that gives you a lot of options. I think you're looking pretty good bro. Thanks for checking us out. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much.   Final Look of the Asymmetrical Haircut Male Style Tutorial

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