Tutorial

Let's take a look at the famous David Cassidy hairstyle popularized in the 70s. This Partridge family icon made the men's shag haircut a fashion statement for the times. In this tutorial you will learn how to cut the original classic 70s shag that David wore and bring it back to life, not the modern version of it. Why? Because sometimes learning how to cut classic styles can inspire new creativity in your haircutting as the techniques are totally different from modern haircutting.  Watch this David Cassidy 1970s shag haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    David Cassidy Hairstyle Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of the original 60s-70s man shag made popular by David Cassidy. His hair was iconically 70s and made the shag popular. Now this is the original version of the shag, not the modern reinterpretation of it where it's really highly textured. This is going to be the original. So, we make sure that we get the layering in it really short to get fullness on top. Make sure you get some bangs in it. Get the feathers because the feathers are very, very important. They're imperative to have in this shape. So, we're going to show you how to do all that. So, let's get started.   Pulling Everything  Up So, let's go through and section everything out before we even start cutting to make sure that we can work as cleanly as possible. Take a center section to the crown from the high point of the head to the top of the ear. Then in the back half of the head, I'm going to take the center section out. It's probably about a 3-in wide section. I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the one with the guard. And the blade is very, very sharp on these Feather Styling Razors. So, I can work with a very large, thick section of hair as long as I'm patient as I go through and use my razor motion. I'll cut that right at the top of the crown. I'll continue on taking section by section and pulling that into my original section. So, the first section was held straight up at the crown. Everything else is going to be pulled up into the crown as well. So, by pulling everything into the crown and having a stationary guide, that's actually going to give me an inconsistency in my elevation. So the first section's held at 90° straight up and then everything else gets held at a greater elevation. So that allows me to build up an increase of length very very quickly, but it also gives me an inconsistent weight distribution which will cause the shape to collapse. So I'll get a lot of fullness at the crown, but as it continues onto the perimeter, the shape is not going to be as round and as full. So, it's going to be fuller on top, less full on the sides, which is really iconic of the 70s type of look for this type of classic shag. So, we're going to continue section by section, pulling everything straight up into my original section and just being patient with the razor. I'm not trying to force and muscle the razor through the hair. I'm allowing the razor to do the work by just laying it against the sections of hair. So, it's the razor motion that's actually doing the cut. It's not me pressuring it against the hair. If I start pressuring it against the hair, I'll actually start pushing the hair and it's going to dull the blade fairly fairly quick. So, just the razor motion is what's cutting it. Pulling everything up to the center again until I run out of hair. Now, we're going to go through and take the center section, split that in half, use one half of the center as my guide for the left and one half for the right. Starting at the top again, right at the crown. Pulling everything straight up into the crown. Using my center section as my guide and cutting that straight across. Everything gets pulled up. The same sort of methodology I was doing in the back. And just using my guide and trying to be right on top of the guide as I cut that forward.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we got our last section right here on the left side. Pulling everything up and just following my guide and making sure everything blends where I've cut the original guide at the top. Checking out my layering on both sides. And I think we got that short enough. Now, we're going to go through and take a center section using the guide at my original crown section that I cut. Pull that straight up into the center of the head and then cut that forward. Now, when I cut this section, I cut it too long. I didn't feel like it was short enough. So, I've gone back on this and cut it about an inch shorter. So, it's important to kind of monitor your lengths and make sure that they're appropriate as you're working towards the finish of the haircut because once you get finished, you don't want to go back and do the whole haircut again. So, I'm going to try to check and make sure I cut it the right lengths as I'm going through step by step as opposed to trying to catch it at the very end. Now, we're going to continue working down towards the the perimeter of the head, pulling everything straight up into the center, following my original guide, and cutting that short. Now, when I'm layering this, it is quite a bit shorter than I would layer most hair for this particular length. It feels a little uncomfortable, but practicing on a doll head really helps you get over that fear of cutting it too short, which is something that's been instilled in us since beauty school, the fear of cutting everything too short. Now, we're going to continue to pull everything straight up into the middle of the head. There's my guide from underneath. And continue to cut everything that hangs over that off.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to work that forward until I run out of hair. After I've cut the other side, I'm going to go back and now I'm going to cut the perimeter shape.   Cutting the Perimeter Shape I'll take a horizontal section across the nape area. Hold that straight down. Wherever I want this length to be, that's what I'm going to cut straight across. Using the razor to give me just a little bit of texture on the ends to soften it up, but I'm still keeping this shape fairly blunt. You know, I'm trying to keep it with the original feeling of the 70s shag. And it was a blunt shape. It was a blunt cut. It wasn't real overly textured. I'm putting a little bit of texture in it to keep it a little more modern, but I want the shape to be really representative of what the original haircut was, which was overly layered on the top, very, very blunt but with a lot of movement to it. So, we're holding everything down. Once we get our perimeter length cut, then we shall move on to the front. One more little piece right there we go. Perfect.   The Bangs Now, we're going to section out our bang section. I'm going to take about half of that so I can start face framing our bangs here. I'm going to comb that first center section straight down with no tension at all. Cut that right at the bridge of the nose. I'll take a blunt little shape and then put a little bit of softening into it as I cut that shape across. So, it's giving me a blunt shape, but then that one razor stroke really softens it up a little bit, but I'm not trying to make the whole thing real super soft. I want to keep a solid shape but give it a little bit of airiness so that one long razor stroke helps lighten it up without it getting too piecey or too light. There we go. We've got that. I like the lengths there. Now, we're going to continue and see if anything else hangs over. And anything that hangs over, we're going to cut off. Holding that straight down just like I cut the original section. Anything that hangs over. Boom. There we go. Got that off. Now I'm going to go through and take a little bit in the center underneath and just lighten this piece up because I noticed that in a lot of the photos that I studied that he had a little bit of lightness right at the center where it kind of feathered back. So I'm taking a little bit of that bang out and making it lighter.   Blending Now, we're going to take a diagonal section. I'm going to pull everything on the side of the head straight forward. I'm not worried if this blends in with my perimeter length. If it does, great. If it doesn't, that's okay. We're going to keep it disconnected. But I want to make sure that I pull everything straight forward and cut that off. And this is where my feathers are coming from is because I'm pulling it all straight forward and blending it in with the bangs. If I don't blend it in with the bangs, it tends to not really have that feathery look to it. So, it has to blend with the bangs. After I've pulled everything forward, I'll comb everything straight down. And anything that gets revealed from the underneath hairline, I'll go through and make sure that that blends through. Pulling everything straight forward from the back and seeing if anything hangs over, which it doesn't look like there's a whole lot. So, we're just going to make sure that that all blends through. There we go. Perfect. I like that. Now, let's blow everything dry. Pull everything forward and blow it back. And then lean his head over and blow everything dry to get it nice and full and voluminous. Then use a vent brush just to polish everything off and get it all moving righteously.   Final Look And here's our end result. And I think that we're looking pretty good. We got the key elements of the shape and we got the proportions right. You know, the key things are over layering it more on top than you think you need to, pulling everything forward on the sides and cutting that nice and short and so that you have this, you know, disconnect right here at the top of the ear. And it makes everything feather back. And we got just the right amount of texture to it. And because of the way we layered it, it makes this top really full, but then collapses the weight on the sides. And by collapsing it, it forces the bottom to flip. So this is a very versatile shape. If you have someone that wants really short full layers on top and wants it kind of out of their face. Sometimes a study of the old classic shapes can really break you out of your creative box because this really will test you because if you're used to doing modern shapes, they're not anywhere close to this. This breaks a lot of modern rules by layering it so short and by pulling everything forward and feathering it all back. But I still think it looks pretty good. I think it's really cool. If I had hair, I'm telling you, this is what I'd be wearing. I think it looks great. Feathers are very, very important. You have to have the feathers if you're going to do a 70s hardcore shag. Anyway, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstyles and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.  

In this layered graduated bob with fringe tutorial, Russell Mayes explores a popular older women's hairstyle that consists of layers, graduation and more layers. This layered bob haircut starts with an inverted bob followed by graduation and then more layering on top. The techniques discussed are great for removing bulk from thick short hair. Finally, bangs are added followed by some blending. Short bob haircuts have always been popular but modifying them based on hair texture and designing bob hairstyles to complement client face shapes, hair texture and density is always a challenge. Watch this short layered inverted bob with bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on how to add layering to graduation. How to keep the graduation from being too thick and overly mushroomy, how to keep it more modern. And it works really well on super thick hair or hair that's really stiff and needs a little bit of pop from some movement. We're going to show you how to add the graduation and where to add it. We're going to show you how to add layering, where to add it, and how to disconnect everything but still make it look like it's connected. So, let's get started.   Inverted Layers So, we're starting here in the nape. I took a center part all the way down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's my first flat section I'm working with in the back. I'm taking my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in version. I like the point on these scissors. And the blade is very, very sharp, but the point is not overly bitey, so I don't have to worry about poking myself if I'm doing a lot of um point cutting. Here, we're going to take a center section, and I'm going to determine if I want graduation or if I want layering. This first section, I'm actually going to invert the layering a little bit. So, it's going to be a little shorter at the occipital bone and then a little longer towards the hairline. So while this looks like it could be graduation based upon the head shape, it's actually layered quite a bit because it's shorter at the top of the section and longer at the bottom. So, by layering this first section, especially on these graduated type of shapes, this can make the shape instantly start getting very, very full and very bulky. Now, if I have someone with thinner hair, then that's definitely what I want. But on someone with thick hair or where it's very stiff and doesn't move, by going through and layering this first section, it helps it lay down a little bit closer against the head so I don't build up so much volume. I started in the center. I determined what type of layering I wanted and now I'm walking my guide towards the left and then towards the right. So the way I do that is I take the center as my guide, determine what my length is, and then add the next section to the left, a parallel section. I comb those two sections into the center and cut. And then I remove the previously cut section. And my new guide is the guide for the next section as I walk all the way over to the left. And now I'm going all the way over to the right. So it's just continuing to take the same length in the center and work that towards each side. I want to try to maintain as even of a balance as I can between both sides. Now, here you see me, I'm just going through and just cleaning it up, making sure it's nice and clean. After I finish that, I'll move on to the next section.   Graduation The next section is going up to two flat sections of the head and then to the top of the ear. Now, here you'll see the underneath completely drops out. And I'm going to completely ignore that guide and create a new guide. This is where the graduation of the haircut really starts to happen. So, whatever angle of graduation I create, you can see here which is fairly steep, that's going to be what the visual representation of my graduation is going to be. And you can see it's already, even though it's sitting on top of a layered section underneath, it still has that typical classic graduated shape, even though it's less voluminous because the underneath hair has been layered. I'll continue to just walk my guide from the center over to the right. And I'll check each time to make sure I'm building up a consistent flow of graduation from the center out. Try to maintain the same levels of elevation that I was going through and trying to maintain cutting directly on top of my previously cut guide as I start to work around the sides.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of any future Jatai Academy content.   Continuing to take my vertical sections as I walk around to the head. And here is a really good angle to see what type of graduation that I'm putting into it. And I'm just continuing to work this around. This is what you would consider classic round graduation because the shape is round vertically and horizontally. That looks pretty good. So now we're going to continue on to the next two flats up into the top of the crown. We're going to move that around to the front of the hairline at the bottom of the recession.   Layering Now, this section, you can see where my graduation is starting to fall out of my fingers. And then I'm going about a finger length further and cutting that straight up and down. So, by cutting that section straight up and down and leaving it a little longer, it really kind of exaggerates the graduated shape, but it doesn't add volume to it like if I was to continue to graduate this shape. So by pulling it up and cutting it straight up and down, I'm actually layering this top section. So I have layering for the first nape section. I graduate to center right at the curve of the head at the occipital bone and above to the drop crown. Now from the drop crown above, I'm pulling that up and layering it again. So I have layer, graduation and layer. So, it seems counterintuitive that I would want a graduated shape that has more layering in it than it has graduation. But because we put that graduation right in the center and sandwiched between those two layered sections, it really gives me a nice smooth graduated shape, but without that stiffness and that bulkiness that comes from that kind of brutalist aesthetic that Sassoon had back in the 70s that on certain types of hair, it was just very very stiff and had no movement to it. And if you didn't style it properly, it just looks completely out of sorts. By having this layering in it, it lightens it up and it loosens it up and gives it a lot more free flow. Here we've done both sides. And I think that that looks pretty good. It really collapses the nape there quite well and still gives me that nice graduated shape. Now we're going to go through and start working on the top.   Top Section I'm going to take a center section from the back all the way to the front. I'm going to pull the crown up. I'm going to take that guide that I had cut underneath from my layering section. And now I'm going to continue vertically layering this at 90° all the way from the back into the front. This is just going to remove a lot of excess length that I don't need. I'll hold this straight up at 90 from each section of the head as I'm working from back to front. Now, this shape gives me a lot of versatility and a lot of variations that I can layer into this and add into this shape because everything is kind of disconnected and I'm not building up this architecturally over structured shape that doesn't allow for any kind of variation. This shape, because there's so much disconnection in it, gives me that option. Now, instead of taking sub-sections and holding everything up into the center where my layering guide was initially, I'm going to take the entire right side of this head because there's no hair from the underneath. I'm going to pull everything straight up into the center and cut that.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to pull everything over into the center until I completely run out of hair. Once I finish my layering here on the top, I'm going to go through and anything that hangs over from this top layering hangs over the underneath section that I've already cut. I'm going to go through and double check here and make sure that it doesn't hang over. So, I'm just going to clean this up. There's a little bit of hair that hangs over. So, I'm just going to go through and vertically section like I did my layering underneath in the third section that I took. And make sure nothing hangs over that so we have a cleaner shape. I could have done this first and then layered it, but I find that I would end up taking more time cutting the hair on top that I end up cutting shorter anyway. So, this way I'll end up cutting less hair, making sure it blends.   The Fringe Now, we're going to go through and take our bang section. We're going to take a pretty good section to the corner of the hairline right there at the recession. And then I'm going to subsection that into a small little section that goes right to the corner of the eye on each side. This is the hair that's going to hang right in the center of the face. Going to create a straight bang here, but curtain bangs or side swept bangs work well too. I'm going to hold that down and cut that to where it hits right at the center of the eye. This is a very popular aesthetic in Japan where it's like right at the most irritating length at the eyeball. Now I'm going to hold this section up and then layer that section just to bevel that edge right there around the face a little bit. So it keeps it blunt but it bevels that edge so it softens it up just a little bit but still maintains that real solid shape. Now we're going to take the rest of the section, hold it down, and I'm going to determine the length that I'm going to right there at the jaw. Cut a little bit right there so I have a guide, and then I can match that on the other side. So, I'll figure out where it is on the other side. Make sure I'll double check and then go through and cut it shorter than the other side. Oh well, we'll figure it out.   Blending Now, I'm going to comb this forward, take the center out of it, and then connect the guides that I've created. I've got the shorter guide in the center that I've created going to that longer guide right at the edge. And that's going to give me a nice really steep line that's going to brush that bang out of the face a little bit. Now, we're going to go through and take a real vertical section here, right above the ear. Hold that down. And I'm going to look at where my little graduated short length bob was starting in the back. Hold this section straight down and then visualize where I want that to go. Now, this is the part here that can really make the shape a little more conservative or a little bit more edgy and soft. I'm going for a little more blunt of a shape, but you could certainly, you know, go through and make sure that this is a lot longer and piecier and a little bit more um, you know, Korean in its aesthetic, I think. So, now we're going to take the next section down, comb that straight down, point cut that through to make sure that my edge is soft right through there, so I have a little bit more flow And I'm not being real precise with this section. I'm allowing the shape to have some movement to it and some softness and some flow to it. Everything has been real structured in this with blunt lines that I've cut. So right here around the edge where I want a little bit more exaggerated movement, I'm going to go through and soften that up by point cutting it. Now we take our last section and you see that little corner that just hangs out there between the back and into the sides and I'll cut that through so we make sure we have a nice smooth blend from our graduation to the back into the sides.   Texturing and Removing Weight Now I'm going to take my Feather Styling Razor and I have the pink version. And then I'm going to add the Texturizing Blade. So this blade has little guards that cover every other section of the blade so that as I run this across the hair, it doesn't cut everything straight across. It gives me little channels so I can add some texture to it and remove a little bit of weight. You may not need to do this part if working on fine hair. So I make this softer without necessarily going through and adding deep channels to it like I would if I was to hold this section vertically and cut into it with my regular styling blade. So, after I finish doing some sculpture cutting in the back, I'm going to take each section horizontally and just add a little bit of texture to it just to create some more internal variation and to give me a little bit more softening and some interest to it. Now, depending upon the hair, I may do a little bit more, I may do a little bit less. But because I've cut this shape very very blunt except for that little bit right in front of the ear. This gives me a still solid shape but softens it up internally and gives me a little bit more visual interest. I'm really liking the texture that we have there. I think that looks pretty good. Now we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it. I'm going to use my Du-Boa High-Tech Brush to polish everything off and then a little bit of styling wax after. You can also use a round brush to style it.   Final Look Well, here is our end result. And I think that we got a really, really nice shape. I think that by going through putting our layering first, our graduation second, then layering on top, it really gives us a nice graduated shape without it being too mushroomy or too stiff or without it looking like, you know, grandma's graduation. This haircut doesn't have to look like a women over 60s haircut. It keeps it more modern. And and let's face it, most modern haircuts have a lot more texture to it than the the stuff from the 60s and 70s that were just overly stiff. So, I think that this works really really well. I like this kind of heavy bang that hits right in the eye and kind of blends into the side. And I think we've got just the right amount of texture to where the bottom lays flat, but we still have a nice little pop here for our graduation. It kind of makes it look like a shaggy bob. This kind of bob works well on straight hair, but can be adapted to wavy hair or curly hair. You can also add a pop of hair color or highlights for additional points of interest. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement. For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary. We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob. We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob. There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started. So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of. Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.   Establishing the One Length Structure Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client. Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke. Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible. Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement. The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good. Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide. Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky. And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful. So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line. There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section. I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line. Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt. Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape. So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape. The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer. So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath. Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut. After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around. So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.   Vertical Sectioning So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off. Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall. If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down. Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.   Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing. And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated. Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility. So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

Today we have a fun treat! As Halloween approaches it's only fitting we do a haircut that could potentially be a costume. In this tutorial we look at the Star Trek Mr. Spock haircut. While Star Trek had several main characters including those played by William Shatner, George Takei and Nichelle Nichols, Leonard Nimoy was one of the biggest. Playing Mr. Spock he had a haircut characterized by straight bangs and pointed sideburns. The Spock haircut name has stuck but elements of this style have continued to show up in contemporary styles like the emo and edgar haircut.  Watch this Spock hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Spock Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today I'm going to be sharing with you the most versatile haircut in the entire universe, the Mr. Spock. Now, and I know what you're saying. You're saying that is not the most versatile. But hear me out. I'll show you how to do the haircut and then I'll explain why it is the most versatile. Let's get started.   Scissor Over Comb So, my first section, I'm going to start here in the nape. I'm gonna go through and taper that in a little bit tighter and fit that in a little cleaner with some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. I tend to like a long, skinny, pointy, sharp blade when I'm doing my scissor over comb. I feel that it gives me a little bit more a better ability to get more detailed and fit everything in close like I want. A fatter blade I can't get as tight in. So, a skinnier blade I like better. So now I'm going to comb this a little bit to the side just so when I bring this up and out I can get a little bit more tension on it. If I comb everything straight down and I come up some types of hair I don't get as clean of a cut. So by combing it a little bit to the side when I pick it up I get a little bit more tension and can get a little bit cleaner scissor over comb. I'll start real close here at the bottom and then just visualize in my mind's eye what type of tapering that I want as I go up and out. Then I'll comb everything down and say, "Okay, I like those lengths. Now let's go through and clean that up." So at first I did a crude shape. So now I'm going to go through and start refining my shape. So, how do I refine my shape? As I go through and I try to trace the previously cut line that was already there. So, I'll go through and do that again. On wet hair, it's going to be a little bit harder to see than if I was to do this on dry hair. The more times that I pass and the more scissor strokes that I apply, potentially the cleaner the cut can be. After I get the center like I want, then I'm going to take a step over to the right. Now I have a guide. The guide is in the center. The first section I didn't have a guide. I was just using the force to cut everything like I want. Now that I have a guide, I'll use that center section as the guide length. And then anything that hangs over off to the side, I will cut a little bit shorter. I want to make sure I don't go through and cut this section shorter or less consistent than I cut in the middle. So, I'm going to take a little bit more time as I start to refine that in. Now, I'm going to go through and do the next section. And I'll continue to work this over all the way to the ear until I run out of hair. I'll start with a crude cut and then fine-tune my crude shape and fine-tune and fine-tune until I get it as smooth as I can see. Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Layering And once I got that dialed in to where I feel that that's good enough while it's wet and I can refine it more when it's dry. Once we reach this point, we're going to start working on our layering now. A center part right down the middle all the way into the nape. Okay. Now, from here, I'm taking this and I'm going to go through and head shape layer this all the way into the back. Since I did my Bettie Page bangs on this model before, I'm going to use that as my guide. But you don't have to have that, I'm just going to go through and take a flat section of head. And what I mean by that is the section against the head is flat. So that's a flat section. I pull that straight up. Oops. Cut that straight across. Remove a little piece. Take a small piece as my guide. Take my next flat section. Hold that up 90° from the head shape where that section is flat. There's my guide. And cut the head shape into it. Tilt the head down to make it more comfortable. A small piece where it's flat. Hold that straight up. There is my guide length. And cut that. Oops. Take a small piece as my guide. My next little flat section. Now, if I have a model who has a flat-ish head, then I understand what the optimal head shape is. So, I will go through and mimic what that would be as I work back. After I finish that, I will go through and separate that in half and pivoting from the crown. I will now blend this length into my tapered length small piece as my guide. So I have the center section as my guide and also the length I'm cutting to. Cut that down and through my next section. Hold into the center of both of those two sections. Pin that out of the way. And there we go. And that's looking pretty good. I will go through remove my center section and then pivot adding my next section. So I have my second section, my third section. I will go through and start at the top. Take a small piece from the inside as my guide. Hold that straight up off the head shape. Cut that down and through my next little flat piece. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that through and work that all the way into my taper. And now at this point I no longer pivot. Once I get to the ear I will take a parallel section. Small piece is my guide from the middle parting and from the previously cut parting. There's my guide. Cut that through. Small piece as my guide. There's my guide from underneath. Blend that into my tapering. And that's looking pretty good as we go through there. Now I will take the parallel section, use that as my guide, and continue to take parallel sections, working forward until I run out of hair. Starting at the top, there's my guide length from underneath. Small piece as my guide. Take my next section. There we go. Small piece as my guide. Working that down and through into my previously cut guide. So, I will cut it from the top down and then cut it from the bottom up just as a cross check or as an opposite check to make sure that my line blends in nice and smooth. And I have a nice round beveled shape. Remove the previously cut guide. And then I have my last cut piece parallel.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Creating the Spock Point on the Sides Small piece as my guide. Make sure I have enough of my guide from the previously cut section. There we go. Small piece as my guide. Basically, the shape that I'm cutting is a round tapered shape. So, it's going to be a little bit longer in the top and it's going to taper down as it gets to the edges and around the hairline. It's going to taper down really tight in the back and then on the sides, I'm not going to taper that in. I want to keep that kind of solid-ish so I can really exaggerate that little Spock point. Since my mannequin head doesn't have a whole lot of sideburn, I am going to go through and cut a little bit of that in. So, I'll comb this down. Determine where I want it to hit, which is going to be about half of the ear. Start there. Get my length cut in. After I get my length cut in, I'll go through, start cutting some of this hair off to reveal the peak over the ear. We want to make sure that his pointy ears are revealed. So, I'm taking it from the back, being gentle over the ear, just letting everything fall in its natural fall, and just fine-tuning that shape in from my taper in the back up and over the ear. And I'm going to take my time. I'm not going to try to rush this. This is the very, very important part of this particular cut. If I had decided to modify this and just taper the whole thing in on the side, that's okay. I don't have to spend so much time making sure that my little point is so strong here in the front. But on this particular head of hair that I'm working on, I need to make sure that that's really dialed in. So, I'm taking my time just combing everything down and point cutting my shape in.   The Front Straight Line All right, after we've got our sides dialed in, now let's go through and work on our front. Now, we did some Bettie Page bangs earlier, and this was my model for that. So, they already have the short bang, but Mr. Spock doesn't have Bettie Page bangs. So, I'm instead of curving this, I'm going to take my short piece and try to blend that across so it's a straighter line. Maybe not as exaggerated of a curve. So, we'll start whittling that down a little bit in the middle to cut some of that curve off.   Fine-Tuning All right, here is our finish after we've blown everything dry. And I think we're looking pretty solid here. I do need to go through and clean some things up, though. So, I want to go through and the first thing I want to focus on is making sure everything in the back here is glassy, smooth, and seamless in its tapering. So, I'm going to go through with my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. This is the perfect blending scissor. It removes enough hair that when I need to remove weight, it distributes the weight perfectly, but also if I just want to retrace what's already there and make sure everything blends, it's perfect for that. So, that's what we're going to start with. I'm going to start right in the center. And all I'm going to do is I'm going to put the straight blade on the bottom. All I'm going to do is go through and retrace what's already there. I'm not trying to cut more hair off. I'm just trying to hit the very tips and make sure everything blends glassy smooth by just hitting the tips of the hair. And that's already making that smoother. So, just retracing what's already there as I work from the nape all the way up into the crown here around the front. Just comb everything down in its natural fall the way it's going to live. And then just take my time and fine-tune this line around the front.   The Versatility of Spock Hair The reason that I say that this is the most versatile haircut in the entire universe is that it's fundamentally a classic shape that has been modified into so many different ways. If you take this even shorter and you cut the sideburns off, you have a Caesar. If I let the top get, you know, longer and I take the sides and the back and taper that really, really short, then I have kind of the lad haircut that's very very popular in Britain. If I let the top and the sides get a little bit longer and have it kind of brushed over, then I end up with a more of a mod kind of bull cut, a Bieber-ish type of shape. If I let the top get longer and I take the sides and the back really, really short and perm the top, it looks like a modern Edgar that's very, very popular right now. So, the basics of this shape make it the most versatile haircut that you can do on any of your masculine clients. tapering it, rounding the shape, and just keeping your proportions varied and the textures varied, and you can do a lot of different types of haircuts. If you only knew this one haircut, you could modify it to fit a large proportion of the masculine clientele that's available today. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

Choppy short layered hair is popular hairstyle among older women but it can be modernized for younger looks. Short layered haircuts are not necessarily easy to do. Choppy layers can tend to look lumpy if done improperly and can really stand out if done on thick hair. Short choppy haircuts are a type of layered bob that's textured. While not a pixie cut, they are short hairstyles that have a lot of style and can compliment the face nicely. Watch this short choppy layered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. You've seen a choppy bob. Well, we're going to do some chop graduation today. Chop graduation is a little more difficult because you have to worry about the graduation starting to look lumpy. And lumpy graduation always looks bad. So, we have to apply the right amount of texture in the right way. Section it so that we can avoid that. We're going to show you how to do all that as we get started and I'm going to blow it dry without using my hands at all. Only the power of the blow dryer.   Back of the Head So, let's get started here in the nape. We're going to take a section across and split the top from the bottom. Then, in the center, we're going to take a diagonal section. And I'm going to hold my scissors out behind on top of my fingers and just go through and cut whatever angle of graduation that I want. Using that as my guide, I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor, which is a razor without a guard. It gives me the most control and has the sharpest blade. This is the limited edition white. And so get them while you can. So I'll start and follow the guide that I did in the center with the scissor. And I'm going to alternate scissor and then razor. So this section here, I'm pulling out the same angle of elevation, following the same angle of graduation. And I'm gonna go through and just chop that line in with my scissors to get my graduation into it. Now, I'm not trying to be real precise with this. Each section that I take, I'm going to alternate. So, this section, I'm going to follow the guide and use my razor to go through and chop the section. So, each section is going to fluctuate between more texture and softness and more texture and structure. This is my Tokyo Scissor from Jatai. It is the longest blade I have at 6 inches. It has a nice point. It's very sharp. And I like the longer blade for doing this technique because on the opposite side, it makes it much easier to cut on top of my fingers like I'm doing now. Here, I'm going through and using my Feather Plier Razor to go through and put my chop graduation in. Now, typical, you know, school of thought is that if I do this, it's going to be really, really lumpy and look really, really bad. But because I'm taking very, very thin sections and I'm elevating it at a higher level of graduation, it makes a much smoother blend. So, I can get that texture from chopping into it without it being very, very lumpy. Now, on the other side, you can see why I like a longer scissor. It makes it so much easier to cut on top of my fingers to make my choppy graduation blend at the same angles. And that I'm cutting from the top down. I'll do the razor exactly the same on the other side, just keeping my choppiness as even and as consistent as possible. After I finish the underneath, we're going to move on to the top of the head. I'm going to start at the same angle for my partings and I'm going to try to elevate at the exact same angle that I did underneath using my razor following the same method of keeping a short little choppy stroke so I can start to build the weight of the graduation without too much weight that I start to create lumpiness here. Going in with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor and going through and putting a little choppy graduation into it as I work from top down. And each section that I cut, I want to comb it and see how the weight distribution is and make sure that my graduation is consistent because this is purely a visual type of haircut. Though I'm sectioning it technically and I'm elevating it technically, my cut is purely visual. So, I have to check it a lot along the way to make sure that I can get both sides even and that I get a consistent type of graduation because it's real easy to get this really really inconsistent and then it starts to look bad.   Sides of the Head Working from the back of the head into the side of the head and I will just follow and build each section coming from the back into the sides. Now, you'll notice that when you're doing short graduation like this, it's going to start to stack up in the nape. And then as I get to the edges around the ears, it's going to start to build up a little bit more weight. So, that's where I'm getting that bob shape from on the sides. Following through, not trying to be real precise, just trying to be real consistent. And this is one of those haircuts you just have to build it and look at it each step of the way.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Still alternating between the razor and the straight scissor just to get a variation in my texture. When I did this type of shape with a bob, it's a lot easier because you don't have to worry about the weight distribution and you don't have to worry about the blend as much because when you're dealing with one length, once you get that shape in on the bottom, you don't have to worry about seeing the choppiness of it other than it flicking out the separation on the bottom. So here, just being patient, working from back to front and trying to build my shape visually. If I need to fine-tune it, I'll fine-tune it. Like that little piece, I thought maybe it was a little heavy, but we'll see. I may fine-tune that a little bit more as we go. Pulling out. Following my guide from underneath. Keeping my scissor and my razor stroke as consistent as possible. There we go. And I like where that's starting to hit on the jawline. Now, from here, I got my last section. I'll take a little bit of the previously cut hair as my guide as I start to work into the sides. I want to make sure that as I start to apply each new cut that I'm using the guide and not recutting into the guide. That's a difficult thing. So, it's okay to not be exactly on top of your guide as you're working this shape. That's why every time I finish a section, I want to comb it and see how it fits. Now, we're going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to make sure that the blade of my razor slides through the hair a lot easier and gives me a very, very consistent result. And I'll use it mostly when I'm doing internal texturing with the razor.   Removing Weight And I'm going to go through, pull out each section, and with my Feather Plier Razor, just go through and as delicately as possible, go through and channel cut to remove some of the weight because these mannequin heads have a lot of weight. I want to maintain that corner in the front. That's why I keep pulling that out and showing that corner. I don't really texturize that much or remove that much weight. I want to keep that solid. Here's a good angle to see how I'm trying to apply this texturizing very very finely and judiciously so I can remove weight more than creating separation. You'll notice that I tend to close the blade in between taking sections and that just gives me a little extra protection and make sure that I'm respecting the blade so I don't cut myself. And just continue to work up until I run out of hair.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And here, I'll just continue to visually remove as much weight as I feel needs to, to help that hair kind of lay down and not get too puffy and bell-like in its shape. I think that when it gets too bell-like, it tends to look a little dated, even though this haircut has a lot of modern texture to it.   Blowdrying Now, when I go to blow this dry, I first started just using the blow dryer to go through and start getting some aeration in it and getting some volume to it. And I think it started to look really good. So, I just used the blow dryer and that's all. I didn't use my fingers to stretch it out. I didn't do anything other than on the bangs. I kind of blew the bangs down with a little bit of a brush to make sure that they're smooth. But everything else is just using that blow dryer to get volume and allow the hair to naturally separate and get the texture that I've built into it by applying the structure of the haircut. Then just a little finger styling to make sure that everything pops and it shows the texture like we want and that I don't have anything that I need to fine-tune.   Final Look All right, here's our end result. And I think that uh I think that that looks pretty good for not using my hands and it blowing it dry and just letting the blow dryer do the work. And I think it really shows off, you know, kind of this choppy graduation cuz the fear you got to get over is doing a graduation that looks lumpy. I want it choppy and piecy and have a lot of separation, but I don't want to look lumpy and poorly done. That's going to come from how we angle our fingers and how we consistently apply our scissor layer with our razor layer and then fine-tuning it at the end. And I think we look pretty good. I think this is a nice interesting way to get some texture and a little more fullness and have a little bit more pizzazz to it, so to speak. Anyway, check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Short choppy hairstyles are haircuts women gravitate to when it comes to short hair. While choppy short layers are popular with women over 50, they can be modernized for younger looks.   

The Vidal Sassoon 5 point haircut is one of the most iconic haircuts of the 60s and 70s. Alongside the Vidal styles he created for Grace Coddington and Nancy Kwan, the 5 point cut is often synonymous with the Mary Quant haircut. Professional hairdressing at the time was dominated by Sassoon cuts and Vidal made a statement in the fashion industry with his iconic cuts, salons and books. Today we can re-imagine Vidal Sassoon haircuts in a lighter, softer way. With the five point haircut, we can still maintain the geometric haircut shape but give it a modern look.  Watch this Sassoon 5 point haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut:     Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to do a challenge. It's a challenge for me to do this iconic Sassoon five-point haircut that was so... it really is what kickstarted Sassoon's career and really created the whole aesthetic of the late 60s and early 70s with this mod look. It's real solid with a beveled bang, two points on the side, three points in the back, but we're going to modernize it and do it with a razor. It's a challenging haircut, but we're going to show you how to soften it, give it a lot more versatility, and add a lot more texture to it if you want. So, let's get started.   Graduating the Back I'm going to start here with a horizontal section from the crown to the top of the ears. And then we're going to take a vertical section right down the middle. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so there is no protection on this. So, you needs to be extra careful. And it is extremely sharp, but it also gives me the most control over cutting a section of hair. And I'm going to go through and graduate this section in the back. Take a parallel section to that and continue to work all the way over to one side by walking my guide. So, I'm going to pull it out. I'm going to visualize what length of the top of the graduation is going to be, where it hits the ear. So, I'm kind of visualizing where that top of the parting section is, and I want to kind of see where that's going to hit the ear. And then I'm tapering it down, graduating it down shorter around the nape. As I cut the center section, that's my guide. And then I start to walk my sections all the way over to the left. So, I'll take the next section, add it to the previously cut section. So, I will remove the previously cut section, and then add to that. So, here I'm taking my next section, and I'm removing all the other hair. So, I only have the previously cut section and the section that I'm cutting. Holding that straight out in the center of both of those sections and cutting from long to short. Longer at the top, shorter in the nape. And I'm leaving a little bit of extra length there at the nape so that I can make sure I can get my points very defined. Working all the way over to the side. Now I'm getting in right behind the ear. And I'm just following the same guide that I started in the center back. Walking that all the way over to the ear. I can change the angle of graduation that I want. If I want it to stack up a little bit more, if I want it to be a little bit more even like this. It's all dependent upon the angle of graduation that I create. And here's the end result on the left side. We're going to take our center guide and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Once I finish that, I'll take my next horizontal section, which is going to be the center of the recession all the way right back to the crown. Take a vertical section in the center and then follow that same angle of graduation that I was doing underneath up and out. So I'm basically graduating and stacking the whole back so that I get a nice pleasing round head shape in the back. So by leaving this longer in the crown, it's actually going to bevel the shape and make it look much more pleasing in the crown. If I tend to change the angle here and go straight up, it tends to make the back of the head look flat. So here I'm doing exactly what I was doing underneath. Taking my previous guide as I'm walking that all the way around to the side and then blending that in with the hair that was cut underneath. Once I get to the quarter part here, I'll start to pivot my angle and the parting is changing. So no longer is it just straight up and down, but it's actually pivoting and leaving a little bit more length in the front. So each section I take is a diagonal pie section off of that hairline. I'm sorry, off of that parting right at the quarter part using the guide that I had created originally from the back. Working that longer as I get around the front. So I'm almost getting like a little bob shape around the front. Now, it's not going to be a bob shape in the end because I am going to cut it out over the ears, but this certainly gives me and saves enough length around the front so that I can work everything in nice and smooth. Then from here, after I got that shaped like I want, do the same thing on the other side.   Building Weight on Top Now, I'll take my next horizontal section and I'll take this all the way around the head. And from here, I'm no longer going to cut vertically. I'm going to hold each section horizontally out. So, by holding each section horizontally off the peak curvature of the head, I start to build up a little bit more weight on the top of the head. So, a vertical section is going to be less solid than if I take a horizontal section. So, I want it less solid underneath. So, I take vertical sections. More solid on the top. So, I reserve some length. I take horizontal sections. And then I'll just continue to work that from the center of the back all the way around into the sides and to the front. Now, this blade is very, very sharp as all the Feather blades are. But since this doesn't have a guard, I have to be a little extra mindful so that I don't end up cutting myself. But the benefit of this is that since it doesn't have a guard, it's very easy to get the exact cut line that I want. And that's the beauty of the Plier Razor is that it gives you the most control and the cleanest cut of any of the razors that I have. Now, I'm going to continue to work this section all the way up into the center of the head. So, I'm just going to keep following the same type of methodology that I was working before. That got a little bit long. So, we're going to take a little bit more off. And I'll continue to work this until I end up with all the hair on the top being cut into the side lengths.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, detailing this a little bit to make sure I get the line as clean as I want. I can just pinch a little piece of hair off and then lay the razor right on top of it. And that pinching gives me the tension and allows me to get a nice clean cut. So, I'll work this all the way up into the center of the head. The same thing I was doing before. That curvature of the head shows me where the parietal ridge is. That's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. So, I get a nice stack of graduation and just following the previously cut guide. Now, this haircut is going to require a tremendous amount of detailing, especially as I'm getting that beveling around the front, but I'll show you how to do that. So, you can see certain stages of this haircut where you think, okay, well, that looks pretty good just like that. So, you can stop there. You don't have to go through and bevel this. There's a lot of options and a lot of versatility with this type of haircut.   Beveling the Front So, I'll take a section around the front of the head from the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear. I'll hold everything straight down. Start cutting where I want my bevel line to be around the front. So, the bangs in the center, that's where I'm going to start and then clean that up. Now, you'll see here I'll lay the hair on my finger and then just use the blade to scrape anything off that doesn't quite fit and isn't as clean as I want. There we go. Just pinching that up and getting that nice and clean. There we go. I like that length there. Now, we're going to continue to work that into the sides into the point right there in front of the ear. So, I'll pick a guide from the center and then I'll angle my fingers to match the angle of my face framing and that beveling around the front. And then I will cut that line into it. And then I'll start with a nice even cut. Try to get it as clean as I can and then look at it and then fine-tune it as I need to. Like right here, there's something that doesn't match. So, I'm going to pull that forward. Cut a little bit of that off. Make sure that I take my time and fitting everything in because this haircut is going to show every fault and flaw that you have. And so, you have to take your time to get it to fit just right. And right there, that was good. That makes everything flow right from the center of the bangs into the corner right there where my point is in front of the ear. Now I'm combing everything forward like a little bowl cut. Take my section from underneath as my guide and then go through and cut the rest of the hair on top of it directly on top of my guide. I try to keep the razor stroke exactly the same throughout each section so that I can maintain the same amount of weight and the same amount of texture. I don't want to start with a real loose razor stroke underneath and then go with a real tight one on top. I want to keep everything even. And then if I need to go back in and take some weight out, then I can go through and purposely take weight out. I want to be very, very methodical. Even though I'm using a razor, which is a softer, more free type of cut, I still want to respect the methodology that I'm going through and cutting. And here I'll keep combing. Comb and comb and look and see where it doesn't fit. See where I need to clean it up. It needs to be cleaned up right there. So the same thing. Pull forward. See where it's not blending. And then fine-tune.   Fine-Tuning Now right here, I'm going to take my quarter part and right on top of the ear, I'm going to pull out a piece of hair, pinch that, and cut that real short. Right there. Not on top of the ear, shorter than the ear, but laying right on the top of it. Then I'll take a section at a diagonal going from the ear down into the nape. And here I'm going to switch it up. And since I was using my Feather Plier Razor, now I'm going to switch it up and use my Feather Styling Razor in the limited edition wood grain. So this way I can really get in there and fine-tune more without fear of having to cut myself because sometimes I need to fine-tune more than I need the cleanliness and the control of what the Plier provides me. So this way I can go through and get a really nice clean shape and I can continue to fine-tune without fear of cutting myself. And now I'll just start pinching over the ear and making sure everything blends like I want. And then pinching around the front, making sure that all blends. And I just keep fine-tuning it as I need to. This is a shape that just requires a lot of refinement to make sure it really falls in like you want it to. Now here I'm going to exaggerate my points in the back. These are the three major points in the back. So, I'm going to make sure that we can really arc that hairline out to get my kind of Batman kind of tail and then the wings on the side. I felt like the front was probably a little too thick and a little too solid. And since I wanted a modern version of this, I'm going to go through and razor a little bit, flat razor it to take some of that weight out. This is going to give me a nice lightness and softness and airiness to it so that when I blow it dry, I'll have a lot more versatility to it. And here there's something right there, right there at the corner of the eye that I just don't like. And I'm going to keep cleaning it up until I get it perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media, @jataifeather   Blowdrying, Styling and the End Result Once I get all my detailing finished like I want, I'm going to go through and start blowing dry. And then I'm going to use my Du-Boa styling brush to dry everything very, very neutral back and forth and back and forth until I can get everything nice and smooth and neutral and as much fullness as I want to so where I can whip the hair back and forth. After that, I'm going to put a little bit of texture paste on it just to enable me to get a little bit of separation and to make the shape really, really pop. Now, I think this looks pretty good. All right, here is our end result of our modern day five point. We got the key points here. We got three in the back. We got one on one side, a nice little bevel to point on the other side. And I think that the razor really adds a nice texture to this and makes it look really modern and fresh. You know, this is a very challenging haircut for a lot of people to do, especially me. But even to take it a step further and do it with a razor, I really think modernizes this really hardcore 70's Sassoon, 60's Sassoon kind of look. So something to add to your repertoire, something to practice. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. And also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. We'll see you next time. Thanks for watching.  

When we think of a Halle Berry short haircut, the first thing that comes to mind is the pixie cut. The Halle Berry short straight hair pixie haircut is her iconic red carpet look that has captivated her beauty and fashion forward hairstyles. In this tutorial Russell Mayes, re-creates this celebrity Halle Berry haircut using a Feather Styling Razor for an easy, soft look. With bangs to compliment the face and a little styling he creates a splitting image of the Halle Berry pixie cut. Watch this  video and follow along with the transcript. Halle Berry Short Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. And today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to do a pixie inspired by Halle Berry. She has great pixies and they're all different kind of lengths from really short and really clean to a little longer, a little more medium. But the things that I think they have in common is they're all almost the same length all the way around. So, we're going to show you how to get a little bit of softness around the edges without it looking mullety. We're going to show you how to get the right texture to it so you can have some fullness and some length without it starting to feel bulky and kind of old-fashioned.   Sectioning So, to get started here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. So, separating the bottom of the head, I can work with just the short part. Then the top part's going to be a lot easier once I got all this fitted in. Because to make sure that this gets fitted in around the edges and still be feminine is something that's going to take a little bit of detailing. So, we're going to deal with that first. Deal with the hard parts first. I'm going to take the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part. Quarter part to the occipital bone. That's going to give me the whole right underneath side. Now, from here, I'm going to section off at an angle right at the front of the hairline, which is going to be parallel to this hairline right behind the ear and parallel to that hairline right at the front. I find that by going parallel to my partings, it has a nicer flow to it and it fits the head shape better if I work within the boundaries of the hairline.   Starting on the Sides Now, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor and the limited edition wood grain. This is my favorite. I think it looks cool. And I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut more hair at one time. But I do have to be a little more conscientious because it is exposing a little bit more blade. So, we're going to start right here in the front at my first angle. And I think that what really makes this kind of pixie pop and still is a little feminine. I've looked at a lot of pictures of Halle Berry's haircut and a lot of them will have a little bit of graduation here on the side. So, I'm going to start putting a little bit of graduation into it, but we have to be careful to not get too much weight stacking up so that it starts to look kind of frumpy. So, that determines I'm going to take a very broad stroke so that I can cut my shape and cut my length without building up a whole lot of weight. So, I'm going to take hold of this parallel and then my fingers will determine what angle of graduation that I'm going to start with. So, I'm going to start with something about there. And I'm going to take a very broad razor stroke all the way down and through. Now, at this point, I want to look at it and see how that's fitting in. I like the lengths of it, but I can tell already that it's going to start building up too much weight. So, as I start to go through, I may start doing some channel cutting to remove some of that weight. Our next section, which is parallel to that first section, comb this into the first section. Hold out from the head. Find the angle that I was working on before. There it is underneath. I can see that. Try to take a nice broad razor stroke like I was doing before. Cut that all the way down and through. And then check and see. And I think we've got a little too much length here on the top. So before I start going all the way through, I'm going to take some of that length off the top. And I think that that's looking better already. That's looking better. Now I'm gonna go through and put a little bit of delicate channeling through here to remove some of that weight and see how it's looking. There we go. I like that. Now we're going to take our next section which is going to be parallel. And I'm running that all the way down in through the nape. So I've got my first, second, now my third section. I'll remove the first section. Now I will have the second and third section. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A nice broad stroke as we go down and through. That's looking pretty good. Now, right here, as I get to the middle of the ear, I can either choose to have more length down here on the bottom and make it kind of a waif-ish pixie, or I can fit this in really tight. Hold this parallel, same stroke, and cut this parallel to my parting. So, that's my parting. That's the line I'm cutting. Now, we're going to take our next section, which is going to be parallel to the same. And I'm going to keep working this same methodology until I get to the center back of the head. Now, we're going to take the last section right here, holding it out from the head with the previously cut section as my guide. Cut that down and through. And I like that. I'm going to take a little bit of channeling through here just to remove some weight and create a little separation. So now I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side.   Back Half of the Head All right. So I've gone through and separated the front half from the back half of the head. It's very important that I make this back half fit in and follow a head shape. If it starts to get too short, I'll make the head look flat in the back. And then that looks really ridiculous. And nobody wants to have a flat head. Take my center section. Now, when I hold this out from the head, I can see the angle of graduation that I already have here underneath. And I want to continue that up and bevel it out. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A little bit longer as I start to go up. Once I go past one flat section, I will go to the next flat section. Hold that 90 degrees. There's my length. Continue that up. When I get to the top, all the way and through. Now, from here, I'm going to pivot from the center piece that I had up there and make a little pie section as I work around to the side. Hold these two together. There's my guide from underneath and follow the same shape that I was working on underneath as I work back up following my guideline.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Pivoting again. Remove the center guideline that I had. So now I only have section two and section three. Fold this up and out. There's my guide from underneath. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Follow that all the way up to the very top. Then I'm just going to continue working this until I reach my quarter part. There's my guide from underneath and my previously cut guide.   The Top of the Head Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So, I'll take a horizontal section to my very first parting that I had, which separated the top from the bottom. I'm going to hold this out, determine the length from underneath, and then go through, lift this straight up and out. There's my guide from underneath, and continue the same broad stroke, holding this horizontally straight out from the head towards me. Not lowering my elevation to build up any weight but continuing this straight up. My next section's going to be parallel. Take my section underneath. Hold this straight out towards me. There's my guide underneath. And then go through and cut everything to blend. I could leave this longer if I was going for more of a Tinkerbell type of pixie or where she had more length on the top. You can take this parallel and make it all short on the top like some of a lot of her pictures were. We're going to make everything nice and short, but you could certainly go through and leave this a lot longer and disconnect it. A nice broad soft razor stroke as I'm working through there. And I'll go all the way till I reach the center of the head and hold everything straight out. Elevation coming towards me. Making sure that I'm not lowering my elevation. And keep everything nice and broad and soft. And so what that does is that also gives me a nice curved shape on the side of the head as well as the back of the head. All right, so we've got the underneath cut.   Removing Excess Length on the Top So now let's go through and take a center section and start dealing with our excess length on the top. I got my center section. And I'm going to hold that straight up in the air. There's my length from underneath. I'm going to turn the razor over and go through without moving my left hand. Just razor the top of that off. Keep a nice broad stroke and gradually increase the length as I go towards the front. There's my next piece. Let's get some of that hair out of the way. There's my guide. Now, at this point, the head is starting to curve, but I'm not curving with it. I'm continuing to go straight with it. That will leave me a little bit of extra length in the front that I can go through and fit that in later to make sure that the bang length is exactly the length that I want. I don't have to get it right right now. Now I'm going to take a parallel section walking to the left side. I'm going to comb the center section and this left section together. There's my guide from underneath. Let's go through. Cut that length. Working from back to front. Take my next parallel section. Comb that straight up. There's my guide from underneath. And as I start to get to the left side, you'll notice I'm running out of hair because I've already cut everything to blend in with the side. So, all I have to do is make sure I get the length on top, the length I want. And there's nothing else to blend through there. Perfect. So, now I'll go back to the center, find my original guide, which is right there, and then I'm going to add my next section, and do the same thing on the other side.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Bangs Now, let's go through and fit in our bang section. And I'm just going to take a horizontal section straight across from recession to recession. Take a little piece right here in the middle. A nice broad long stroke through there. I think a little more. A little more. We're going to make sure we get some good separation through there. And all I'm doing is looking at that center piece to see where that fits. And I think that that's going to be okay. Now, we're going to take our next piece next to it. I'm not picking up a guide. I'm just visually going to cut to try to fit this in in its area where it lives. So, I'm not using a guide other than just visually looking and seeing what looks right and pray a little bit and make sure I don't cut everything off completely. We're going to comb everything down. There's a little piece right there. Fit that in. Perfect. Right here. No guide. Just purely visually fitting this in around the front. Now we're going to take the next piece, comb this down. Anything that hangs over and looks too thick, I'm going to go through and fine-tune. Take a little bit of the weight out through there. A little bit here. I'm surface cutting right on the top. So, I cut the top layer shorter, not the underneath that I've already cut, just to see if anything hangs over. If something starts to get too thick like that, then I'll go through and start fine-tuning that as well to make sure I get my separation like I got underneath. I think the razor really lends itself to creating the perfect shape for this type of haircut because while it still gives it a strong shape, there's enough softness and separation and looseness to it that it can really look lived in and still remain very glamorous. So, let's blow it dry and see what we got.   Halle Berry Short Haircut Final Result Here's our end result. And I think that we got a really nice shape, especially around the crown, so you can get it short and full, but still have a nice pleasing head shape to it. I also think that we have a nice kind of soft perimeter shape around the edge. And on these mannequin heads and somebody with really thick pokey hair, this is kind of hard to achieve. So, you want to make sure that you compensate for however much inverted graduation that you put back here so that you leave a little bit of softness around the edges. We've got a nice little bit of graduation to it without it looking too bulky or too bowl-ly. And I think that looks pretty good. The bangs, you know, you can do so many different things with them. You kind of sweep them over, get them up out of the way. You know, you can have them kind of come down. whatever is your preference and whatever the style of Halle Berry pixie that you're going for. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Halle Berry hairstyles have mostly erred on shorter side. Her haircuts are classy and sophisticated. Sometimes it's straight and sometimes it's wavy. But Halle Berry short haircuts have remained her staple look and they look great on her! We hope you learned how to use a razor for this Halle Berry cut. Check out our other tutorials for other short haircuts.   

If you're looking to create choppy layers for long hair, you'll want to go through this tutorial. Layered haircuts can come in various forms as not all layers are made the same. Choppy haircuts are hairstyles with a lot of separation which creates more distinct layers. These styles are trendy and have a more rock and roll feel. They work on short, medium and long length hair so the techniques described below apply to all lengths. Whether it's straight or wavy hair, choppy layered hairstyles can work for most hair types. Watch this long hair with choppy layers tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Choppy Layers for Long Hair: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a study on long hair choppy layers. But we don't want choppy layers like it was a mistake. We want choppy long layers that looks good, balanced, and creates a lot of texture. This haircut's all about getting separation and pieciness and getting that kind of lived-in layered feeling. So, we're going to show you how to section it. We're going to show you how to build the right texture by doing some deep channel cut with our razor. And we're going to show you how to do a nice little face framing around the front. So, we're going to start here working on our perimeter shape and the overall length of the whole haircut. Natural part to the occipital, occipital to the mastoid. And then we're going to section off a center section.   Channel Cutting the Perimeter I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. And I'm using the limited edition wood look. I'm also using the R-Type Blade. And the R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut thicker sections of hair and it gives me a little bit more control. Now I'm taking horizontal sections and taking very very deep solid severe channels because I want this hair to separate. So I want to leave it a little longer than I think I need in order to give me the overall length that I want. Because I'm taking such severe channels out of it, it's going to make the ends look and appear a little bit thinner, which is going to make it appear a little bit shorter. So, cleaning up my shape there. Now, we're going to go through and take a parallel section as I work up the back of the head. So, every section is going to be parallel. And I'm going to start the exact same way. Start right in the center. Comb everything clean and then a very deep solid channel cut all the way through to force that separation, to force that texture to pop into these tendrils. If I take the channels much closer and much finer, I'm not going to see as much separation. It's going to diffuse the texture and I'm going to be more product dependent to get that separation. So here I'm just cleaning up a few pieces that got a little bit longer that I want to make sure that it's not sticking out too severely. So it looks like it's longer on one side than the other. And I'm just going to go through and follow the same methodology. The deeper the channel, the more hair I take. The stronger the gap becomes, the more separation that I force into each section. So, my layering that I'm doing here is really only going to be in the last six/eight inches of the hair and just following through exactly the same methodology to cut the entire perimeter shape to get the texture like I want. Sometimes the hair in the middle didn't reach so I'm not going to cut so much in the middle. Where it gets longer on the sides, I still want to get everything the same length all the way across. As I pull some of the neck sections down, there's not a whole lot of weight removal that needs to happen. So, I'm just taking off any kind of length that hangs over my perimeter shape to make sure we get the lengths the same. But then on the sides, it does need a little bit of weight removal and a little bit of channeling to make sure that the textures pop just like the center and the underneath sections.   Face Framing Now, we're going to move on to the front. And I'm going to take the first bump from the hairline and take that all the way to the top of the ear. That's going to section out where the hair falls in the face. Now I'm going to take a center section right where her hair parts. I'm going to pull that forward and that's going to be my length for her shortest layer around the front. I'm taking that little triangular section right where her hair separates and splits. Now I'll split that in half. I'll take the left and the right so I can have a guide for each side. Now here, working on the left side of her head, I will take a diagonal section, pull that over to the opposite side, and use my length from underneath to create a really steep angle for my shortest layer around the front where her bang section is to blend in with all the face framing that I'm going to start to introduce as I work into the sides. Now, the steeper that angle is, the faster the speed of movement that I create going from short to long. And just continuing that all the way down to the perimeter length that I have at the ear.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side, but in the opposite way. So where on the left side I was pulling everything to the right, here on the right side I'm pulling everything to the left because I want that increase of length to force it out of her face right at the fringe bang section and then that blends into my face framing layers. Now I'm not going through and putting a lot of texture into this section because it's already a little bit finer and thinner. And if I need to create more channeling, then I'll do that where the sections get a little bit thicker. Check our lengths. They look pretty good. Now, we're just going to comb everything down. And anything that hangs over my face framing, I'm just going to cut that off. Now, I want to be mindful of my perimeter shape right at the ear section. So, when I worked on my perimeter in the back, I've cut everything all the way around, and now I'm working on my face framing. I want to make sure I don't cut that perimeter length right at the top of the ear. If I cut that, that shifts the weight behind the ear and it no longer hangs full around the front. So, still taking a long razor stroke to make sure that I have a nice soft texture to it. If the hair gets thicker, then we'll go through and channel it and make that a little bit lighter and thinner. Now, let's go through and work on some layering in the back of the head. And this is really what's going to make the haircut pop. Taking a triangular section right in the crown, hold the first section up. Find out where I want my layering to start. And then just like I did underneath, I'm going to go through and take some really deep, severe channels to force that hair to separate when it falls. And because I'm holding it straight up in the air, that's going to add layering to it as well and airiness and softness. So that deep channel will give me a little bit of weight. So when it falls, it pops. Now, here where the layering, I'm sorry, where the razoring stopped on the previous section is going to be the beginning of the razoring for the next section that I cut. And I'm still going to follow the same methodology I was doing before. We'll separate the right half of the back from the left half of the back. Hold that straight up using my guide from underneath to start the razoring. And still continuing that really severe deep razor channel. Just keep holding everything straight up, section by section by section, letting any kind of shorter hair underneath fall out. And there we see my guide from underneath. And I'll start the razoring as I go forward. Checking our razoring on the left side, seeing how it looks before we move on to the right. Now, we're going to follow through with the exact same thing we did on the left side. We're going to do on the right side. Where the razoring stopped from my previous section is where the razoring is going to start for the next section. So, I don't have to be real precise with this sort of layering because not only am I elevating it to the maximum elevation that I can get, which is going to remove the most weight, but because I'm using a razor and I'm going for a choppier look with this really deep kind of choppy channel cutting, it's going to blend smoothly throughout. You're not going to see any kind of real hardcore lumps. It's going to have a smooth gradation in my layering. But because I got that deep channel, it's going to pop out and be a choppy type of layering.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Check our layering. See how it looks. And I think it looks pretty good. I am going to remove a little bit more weight right through the center. I pulled everything up and I pulled everything down. So, I got a little bit of weight build up right in the middle part of the entire back of the head. So, I'm going to take a little bit more weight out through there. And I'm going to go through and continue on with the same sort of deep severe channeling that I was doing underneath just to make sure that we can get those layers to pop and separate like we want. And I want to be mindful of how I'm applying this channeling technique. Where the hair is thicker, I'm going to take a little bit more. Where it's thinner, I'm obviously going to take a little less because I want the weight distribution of her hair to be as consistent as possible.   Addressing the Top of the Head So, now we're going to move on to the top of the head and I'm going to take a parallel parting right to her natural part. I'm going to pull the hair up in the crown as my guide. And then I'm going to go through and channel it just like I was doing in the back on the side of the head to make sure that all the layering from the back blends into my face framing layering around the front. And then just continuing to channel that through and not trying to be real precise and real meticulous about this. This haircut demands a looseness, a fastness of the razor application, and I can't be real precise. This is more of a haircut about feeling. So, I want to make sure that I put that deep channel in it as consistent as possible throughout. Now, we're going to continue on the opposite side, pulling everything up. Anything that that hangs out, that doesn't look right, that doesn't feel right, I'm going to take a little bit of that out.   Blowdrying Now, let's go through and start to blow dry. And when I start blowing dry, I'm going to start right around the front. I'm going to pull everything forward, blow everything back so it kind of gets confused because I want this hair to have some volume, but I don't want it sticking straight out. So, I'm going to start at the bangs because that's the most important part of a blow dry is how it looks around the front. Now we're going to work in the back. I'm going to blow dry everything at the roots to get it off of the scalp so it has a natural fullness. And then I'm going to go through and polish it off from the mid-shaft and the ends with a little bit of a round brush. I want just enough bend to force the layers to kind of separate, but not so much that it starts to look real glamorous. Around the front, I'm pulling everything forward with a little bit of bend moving back away from the face. And then I'm gonna take a cold air shot and blow everything around to get some air in it so it has a more natural kind of look to it. After I got everything dry like I want, I'm going to put a little bit of styling cream on my hands and go through and just encourage those pieces to separate so we can really see our layering pop. And I think that that looks pretty good and everything's popping really, really well.   Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I like the way that the texture really fits with her natural texture. And we got a lot of separation to it. So, this is a type of long choppy layers that still blends and doesn't look too chunky. You got the separation from all the layering in it. You got the pieciness from all that deep channel cutting. And the face framing lays perfect around the front. And this is not about being super smooth. It's about getting some pop from the layers. So, it looks a little lived in and a little more rock and roll than a glamour type of layering. So, I think it works really well and it fits on most types of hair. On all but the curliest types of hair this shape would work really, really well on. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstylist and barber. Also, let us know if you have any ideas for what you'd like to see in the future. Any suggestions would be great. Thank you so much. We'll see you next time.  

We have come to know and love Farrah Fawcett's iconic 70s feathered look. But it's 2025 and some of us want a modern take on the haircut. In this tutorial you'll learn how to cut Farrah Fawcett haircut with a razor for the modern times. 

In this short bob undercut style, Russell takes a look at a modified bob haircut that utilizes an undercut to remove weight and prevent a mushroom shape. This is not a shaved undercut bob but rather a subtle, soft undercut that leaves a classic hairstyle look. The undercut bob haircut works great on thick hair to reduce volume. Bob haircuts will always be in popular style. Watch this short bob undercut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Bob Undercut:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Do you have problems with short bobs getting real bulky and looking too mushroomy? Well, we're going to show you how to fix that today. Very easy with some undercutting and some texturizing and a little bit of razor work. And you'll be amazed at the results that you can get. So, let's get started. To preface this whole thing here, when you're doing a short bob, it can get very, very thick very, very quick. We're going to go through and we're going to undercut the shape, but we're going to undercut it in a specific way where we're not necessarily skinning it and making it very, very edgy. We're just going to take all the weight out from underneath and it's still going to bevel through and blend in the back. So, I think that that's very important for this sort of shape even though we're going to disconnect it and we're still going to maintain a nice clean bob line. All right, so first let's get with sectioning. Here we go. All right, so the first thing I want to do is go through and separate the top from the bottom. So, I can take it as high as the center of the recession or I can take it anywhere lower from there. So, I'm going to go a little lower than that. So, I still maintain a real strong bob shape, but I start to take this hair out. That's just going to make it bulky. So, we're going to go to the quarter part. From the quarter part down to the occipital bone. Then I'm going to take it right across straight across the back.   Creating the Bob with Undercut to Remove Bulk So after I feel like I've got this balanced like I want and I have enough that I feel I can remove enough bulk to keep my bob from being too bulbous, I'm going to go through and take my Jatai Osaka Scissor. Now this is a 6-in scissor that has a nice strong solid blade, so I can take and cut a large section of hair easily. and it's nice and sharp. So, I'll go through the entire section without any kind of resistance. So, from there, I'm going to take hold this section. Take each section. I'm going to comb everything straight up. And I'm going to lay my finger right at the parting. Pull this straight up. Cut that straight across. So, what that's going to do is that's going to cut the top of the section a lot shorter than the underneath so that when it falls, it's going to fall and collapse that shape really close to the head and remove a lot of that bulk. Start here on the sides. Comb that section straight up to the parting. Cut that straight across. And just do that all the way from the front into the nape. I don't have to be real precise about this. I'm just going through cutting the length off. Oops. And since I'm holding it so high up at such extreme elevation, it's going to take all the weight out of this section and leave me just enough hair around the edges that I can start to fit in. So after I've got that finished, I'm going to go through and start fine-tuning this in all around the edges. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in white, no guard. And I'm gonna go through and just visually take a little piece of hair, a little vertical section, go through real gently, lay this flat across my section, and start to fit that in closely against the head. I can go through and start really fine-tuning this shape and take some of that length out and make it fit in a little bit nicer around the edges. And I'm just going through this is called filleting. So I'm just going to fillet this section off to get some of that really long hair out of the way. Going through here real gently taking some of that out. My whole idea is just to remove the weight and remove the excess length that I don't need underneath. That tends to make everything really blocky. Very easy to go through and cut all this length off and take that weight out and still have a nice soft underneath shape. Now, before I move on to the top, if I feel like this underneath with this length that I've cut is too much, if it if it still feels like it's going to be too thick and make my bob kind of pop out and get kind of lumpy, then I can go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai and remove some more weight. And the way I would do that is just take the comb, scissor over comb, and I would do it really deep and just walk that all the way up because really all I have to thin is the middle of that section. I don't have to thin the whole thing even though I'm going to. And this will take this will take any of the remaining weight that I have that I don't want out of it. I feel like the Tokyo Thinning Scissor takes the right amount of weight that I can go through and do this very very deep without fear that it's going to come back and bite me because it took too much hair out in one shot. I can hit it multiple times to take more hair out, but I don't have to. We've got all this underneath hair taken care of, and now we can go ahead and start working on our bob.   Creating the Bob All right. So, I've got my natural part, which is a little off center, and I'm going straight back down and halving the head, and then one flat section above where the occipital bone is diagonally towards the ear. And this is going to be the start of my little bob. So, I'm just going to take a center section. And here, I'm going to look at the side of her head and see where that's going to go. So, I'm going to go fairly short here and just cut that straight across. Check my line. See if my length there will be short enough and how it's going to build up there. And I think that's going to be fine. So now I'll start using that as my guide, angling it towards the chin and just start at the innermost part and cut towards the face. Do the same thing on the other side. See where that's going to go towards the jaw. Since I don't have a line underneath, I only have this line here and my length there. Start cutting from the center going towards the face. Check my lengths. See if they're building up similarly. And they're looking pretty good. That's pretty nice. And I'm liking the way that this hair in the back is really kind of stacking in and fitting in underneath the weight of the bob that I'm starting to build up. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section right there. Here's my next section. I'm going to hold it out at elevation. There's my guide from underneath. And then we're going to lay that flat horizontally right across that. Cut my one length and start to build up some weight. Here this comes. I'm starting to build up towards the front using my guide from underneath and the guide in the center and building up the shape that I want to flow towards the shape up towards the face. Parallel sections as I start to work towards the front. Starting in the middle, seeing my guide length from underneath. Combing clean from the roots all the way down. There's my guide length. Get that out of there.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I'm just going to continue with this until I get to the last section. Now, we're working here into our last section on each side. And we can comb that down. And we can start to see a nice little bob shape developing up. And the whole idea behind this this haircut is to give me a bob shape without it having that really mushroomy type of bob because if she has thick hair and you're doing something short, you have to undercut it and you have to start relieving some of that weight from building up and looking very mushroomy. So, by going through and undercutting it and then going through and cutting my bob shape with the razor, that certainly helps alleviate some of that bulk and some of that that mass that starts to develop. Even though I'm holding this down and still cutting it exactly like I would cut a one- length bob, but I'm loosening up from the technique and allowing it to develop visually as opposed to going through and trying to build it very structurally and very geometrically. Now, we're going to go through and blow dry, and I'm going to see what we have. And I'm gonna see how we need to taper this in and fine-tune this in the nape to make sure everything pops just right.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now to go through and remove some of this kind of 70s bevel that we have to it, I'm going to take a vertical section, hold that straight out from the head. Take my thinning scissor and go through and vertically thin some of this hair out so it helps the shape collapse a little bit more. We're going to check that. That looks better. And then let's continue that on as I work around and get to the mastoid bone. Nice short little bob undercut to relieve some of that heavy heavy mushroomy weight that we usually get. And I like that right there. That's looking pretty good. Not bad.   Short Bob Undercut Final Look   Here's our end result. We got a nice little blend back in here, even though we did completely disconnect it and undercut it. And we got a nice little bevel to our bob, even though it still maintains a real solid shape right at the jawline. So, this is a very good technique to add to your repertoire in case you have someone with very, very thick, stiff hair that you can get some of that weight out. Now, you don't have to do as much as I did or you can do more. It's very versatile shape and it works on all different types of textures. Maybe if the hair is real fine, maybe I wouldn't do it because you want to build up as much weight as you can to get a real solid bob shape. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

In this Jennifer Lopez haircut tutorial we look at one of her many hair transformations and try to re-create it. JLo has long been known to try many different types of haircuts and hairstyles, both in her personal life and in movies. She has even experimented with hair color from blonde to brunette to black. In her latest movie, Kiss of the Spider Woman, Jennifer debuted a black pixie haircut and a Marilyn Monroe type curly hairstyle which just shows her versatility. Whether it's fashion week, a music video or awards show, this celebrity beauty knows how to change it up! For this particular haircut, Russell demonstrates Jennifer Lopez's Super Bowl bombshell haircut that exudes fullness, movement and face framing. Follow along with this tutorial and transcript below.   Jennifer Lopez Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study on JLo and how she styles her hair and when she gets that bombshell kind of look. We're going to show you how to get the texture right, how to get the layering right and how to make sure that you have that strong heavy solid bang that really makes it pop. Now to go through and do this particular type of shape that JLo tends to wear a lot, it's not so much that the hair is layered to get volume and fullness to it. It's kind of a throwback to old school hairdressing where they would cut length and then style it into shape. So in order to create this shape where it's just a natural lived in type of layering, we're going to go through and do some very very deep razoring and I'm going to use the brand new Feather Plier Razor in white. I love the white look. I think it's really eye-catching and unique. And I think this is going to be my new favorite. Now when I'm going through with this kind of retro type of razor cut I'm not focused so much on building a real solid shape. I'm focused more on getting the right amount of texture.   Establishing the Perimeter So I'm going to start with a pretty good gap. Start here short, go through work that all the way down to the tip and then cut that across. So the channels are a little further apart but they're real deep. Go through. Take these channels pretty deep and far apart and I'm not worried about making sure everything is perfect. This is an exercise in loosening up your haircutting. And I'm cutting visually more so than I'm cutting technically by building the shape in a structured way. So I'll take my next section down. I want to use enough hair that I feel like I have a good amount in my hand that it doesn't get real transparent and wispy but I don't want to have so much that it causes the razor any sort of difficulty being cut through. Take my next section, combing everything straight down. Pretty major gaps between my razor stroke. Check that. That's looking pretty good. And I want to make sure that I have texture in the very bottom of it. My next piece, there we go. Cut that down and through. And look at it and I think that that's looking pretty good. We got a little bit more weight over here so I'm going to take a little bit out. You can see how that's kind of clumping together a little more. So I'm going to take a little more out right through there and that's looking more symmetrical and more even across the entire shape. And I'm just going to take horizontal parallel sections until I get everything cut horizontally.   Creating Graduation and Internal Texturing Once that I feel like I have a solid enough perimeter shape as I work up the head, I'm going to start elevating each section so I can get a little bit of graduation in my internal layering that will prevent me from having to go back and remove a lot of length and a lot more texture in the perimeter length because I don't want this to bulk up. I want this to kind of dissipate into tendrils and if I hold everything straight down that's going to start building up a more solid shape. So I'm going to hold the section at that elevation. Let that hair underneath kind of fall out. Continue this real deep channeling as I go through. There's my elevation. There's my length guide from underneath.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now since I'm doing this very fast and loose, there is going to become an opportunity for me to texturize one side a little bit more than the other side with each section that I go up, especially working from left to right. So if I happen to go through and layer one section a little bit more, take a little bit too much hair out, I'm not going to freak out about it. The next section I'll go, I'll leave it a little heavier and that's okay. So it's not about being precise and precision and perfect. It's about just creating a texture to it with that internal separation so I can have that shape and that length there to style it because this is about how you style it as much as it is what the shape of the cut is. When I need to fine-tune something, like say I got a little something here that doesn't hang quite like I want, when I need to fine-tune it, then I can go through, slow down, be real precise, take off just little bits to get the texture just like I want to get the lengths just like I want before I move on to the next shape. I'm going to go through and use a little bit of Blade Glide just to make sure I can keep a consistent level of wetness and also to make my razor glide through the hair as easy as possible. So by going through and putting in so much texture and so deeply, it gives me the illusion of the hair being layered even though technically it's not really layered. The shape is very much one length with a little bit of face framing layering going on around the front but you got to get the texture right so it takes a little bit of time to dial it in. That's where you're spending your time is making sure you get the textures right, the weight even and you get enough internal separation to start to really make that shape pop. Now let's go through after we finished all of that. I'm going to look and see how our shape is looking underneath on the bottom and I'm thinking that that's looking pretty good. It looks like we got some layering because we have all of that movement going through, but it's not actually layered. It's almost all one length and our basic shape with just this internal texture.   Face Framing Layers - Heavy Bangs Alright, so now let's move on to the front. Next section is going to be from the first bump of the head to the high point over the ear. Now I'm going to break this down a little bit further. I'm going to take from her natural part right to the corner of her eye which should be about the center of the recession. Section this out. I'll pin this out of the way. Now I'm going to go through and start my layering around the front. This is really the only, technically, the only part of the haircut that's going to be layered is this face framing around the front. Now most of the pictures that she has she has this real heavy kind of bang that flips or sometimes just kind of cups under and then it blends through the length on the sides with this face framing. So I'm going to start with my bang section and I'm going to take a center piece. I'm gonna look at this and see how much weight I want that to be split on each side and I think about a little bit more. So I'm going to go a little more there. Visually look at it. See where it falls. See how that shape is going to hit and now I'm gonna cut this section. Instead of cutting it at an angle to force it to flow, I want it to have that heavy solid almost disconnect from the rest of the layering. So I'm going to cut this straight across. I am going to use a razor so I have texture, but the line is technically going to be straight across. Right through there. After I got my channeling through it, I'm going to go through and blunten this shape up a little bit so I have... You can see very very plainly where I have my channeling that's going to cause that to separate, but then I cut it blunt right through there. So when I style this, this is going to have that strong heavy shape around the front. Here is where I'm going to start angling this down. So I have my next section there. I'll start here in the front, pull that forward and here where I start angling it into my face framing into the sides. After I get that we're going to make that pop a little more like that. Same thing on the other side. Now we're going to take the rest of this hair here. This section here is all the hair that has the ability and the tendency to fall in the face. I am going to elevate so I have some of the airiness of this face framing. There's my short piece. A nice sharp blade makes this very very easy work to go from short down to my length without any hassles and I end up with this nice easy airy blend. Same thing on the other side. The shorter the stroke, the more solid my shape becomes. The longer the stroke, the softer and the airier it's going to be. So if I have a piece that's not hanging like I want and I want to put more control in it, like this little area here, I'll take a shorter stroke to help force that to curve into the shape that I'm going for. Looking good. Now on my next section here I am going to hold this down because I want a clear separation between the front being airy transitioning into my sides. And there shouldn't be a whole lot of hair here that needs to be cut. There we go.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Same thing on the other side. And I think that that's looking pretty good. We have this nice heavy solid front layer and then it goes into blending in with the sides. We got a nice texture through it and I think we're looking pretty good for the overall basic shape. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Jennifer Lopez Haircut Final Look A little bit of hairspray on you girl. Get you ready for Hollywood! I like it. I think we got the right texture. I think that the shape really lends itself to being able to style it in a lot of different ways and when you have a shape that doesn't have a real solid structure, it enables it to absorb whatever type of styling that you want to put into it. It's very very versatile. And especially if you want to add any kind of extensions or wefts or anything like that into this it will blend in very very easily, much more so than if you had a very very structured shape done with scissors. Please let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for checking out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber and we will see you next time. Thanks for watching. Jennifer Lopez has sported many different hairstyles. From pixie cut styles to half-up half down looks and long voluminous hair, JLo is a fashion icon. Jennifer Lopez hairstyles are always gorgeous, well thought out and captivating. We hope you enjoyed this Jennifer Lopez haircut tutorial.  

Let's explore a Brad Pitt hairstyle. But which one? The famous actor has had many hairstyles over the years and has sported distinct styles in movies like Fight Club, Fury, Mr. and Mrs. Smith and Inglorious Bastards. His red carpet looks from his days with Jennifer Aniston and Angelina Jolie have always been of interest to fashion gurus. And his hair is versatile making him a great candidate for a variety of looks. In this tutorial, we dissect the Brad Pitt haircut from Seven, a 90s oldie but goodie. Follow along with the video below and follow along with the transcript.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of Brad Pitt's short haircut that he had in the movie Se7en. It was one of my favorite looks that he had because it wasn't a real polished look. It was a little more lived in, a little more raw. So we're going to study how to get that raw look but still have it look like it is a complete and well done haircut. So let's get started. So in the movie Se7en Brad Pitt plays this young rookie detective and he's teamed up with this veteran, you know, detective to show him the ropes. So you can kind of see in his character that he's young, he's new to the job, he's new to the gig, he's learning how to do everything. And that's reflected in his style as well. He's not real polished in his clothes. They're like they fit but they're not real expensive and also you can see that especially in his hair because his hair is this young raw kind of cheap rookie detective haircut. It's not real polished. It's not real clean. It's literally the opposite of Miami Vice that was glitz and glam and perfection. And now you're seeing Brad Pitt who's usually impeccably dressed with perfect hair, because the dude has great hair. In this movie, his hair is a little lumpy. It's a little raw. It's a little disheveled. It's not polished. So I'm going to try to repeat that basic shape and keep that rawness to it without it looking like it's a cheap terrible haircut. To get started I'm going to go through and separate the top from the bottom. We're going to take a recession...center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part's going to go down to the drop crown which is between the occipital bone and the crown. It's that little bump right in the middle. That is basically the parietal ridge that I'm separating the top from the bottom from.   Scissor Over Comb Now that I've got the top separated from the bottom, I'm going to go through and do some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor with a nice even blade all the way through. It's not a real heavy blade so it doesn't tire out my hand by doing a lot of repetitive motion, but it still has a nice sharp blade and a good clean point to it. So we're going to start here on the side and in the movie I noticed that his hair was tapered closer here in the front and it was a little longer in the back. So that's what we're going to do. I'm going to angle my comb here. I'm going to start real low and just crudely go through scissor over comb. I'm not taking a whole lot of strokes just yet. I just want to go through and get my lengths proper to where I think that they should be. This is still going to be a little tapered. So we're going to go through and feel it out and get everything where I think that should be. And I think that that's probably a pretty good length. I'll probably take that a little shorter right through there and then I will continue to work this back. After I've got to the mastoid I'm going to go to the back of the head, the nape of the head, and I'm going to start here at the bottom. I'm going to leave a little bit more length than I did on the side and taper that up. It's not a real steep taper but it's still tapered a little bit nonetheless. Now once I come to the point where the mastoid is, I was cutting the side going up, I was cutting the back going up but because of the way that the angles are on the parietal ridge now I'm going to come in at an angle like this and work that up and out and through. So I'm working my tapering parallel to my parting. Okay now I'm going to go through and separate in the back. I'm going to take from the crown to the high point of the ear and separate the front from the back. And I'll go through and take a center section and I want to continue the angle of tapering that I've already started from underneath as I get longer towards the crown.   Blending the Sides and Back So I'll take this section right in the back in the middle using my wood-look Feather Styling Razor limited edition, by the way. This gives me enough texture to keep everything soft and allow me to fine-tune it here later on. But it also can go through and cut a nice clean shape. I'm going to pull that out. There's my length from underneath. Go through and continue that angle straight up. I'm not worried about this length being right because I'll cut that with the top. All I'm looking for now is to blend this into the back. I will pivot from the crown. There's my pivot angle. I'll pull this out from the head at 90. There's my line from underneath and my previously cut guide. I'll go through take that length off and make sure that we have a nice little blend through there. Pivot again as I start to work towards the side. Remove the center section. Now I only have my second and third section. Going to pull this straight out from the head. There is my line from underneath. Going to take that out, remove my second section. Now I have my third and my fourth on this side. There's my length from underneath. We're going to go through blend that through. Now let's go through and work on making sure that the sides blend. I'm going to go through and take a parallel section to my previously cut section which was halving the parietal ridge. We have this length here so I'm going to pull this straight out from the head using my razor. There's my length underneath and cut this using that length as my guide from the front all the way to the back.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @JataiFeather   Next section. And I'm gonna keep going through and following this methodology until I get to the center of the head and then I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side. We've got everything blended through with our sides and the back and I think that we don't have to worry about any hair hanging over that looks funky but the top is still too long for the shape.   Blending the Top So what I want to do is go through and cut the top, but I want to cut it as inconsistent as possible without being completely out of shape so what I'm going to try to do is just use my fingers to put in, pick up and then cut anything that hangs out over my fingers off. Lift this up, put my fingers in, try to find that length that I want and then go through using my Feather Styling Razor and just start cutting anything that hangs out over my fingers off. This is going to be very crude and very raw. And I may have to go through and do it a couple of times. But this is how I'm going to start getting that really crude shape on top and I'm not trying to cut everything at one time. This starts to give me my guide length and now as I start to look at that front, that's looking more like the photo. He's looking like a detective more and more. Another way that I can go through and cut this, pull back. There's my length. I'm going to lay my finger against the flat part of the blade and anything that's really long I'll just push into the blade and cut that off. After we got the front, I'm going to go through and take a little more here. Hold this up in my fingers. There's my guide from the front and then we're just going to go through take this off. I would probably use the regular blade as opposed to the R-Type Blade to give myself a little bit more protection. And I'm not jamming this into my hand. I'm just running it across the top of my fingers. So it's starting to crudely cut the shape, but not real cleanly. So take your time and be patient. It's a technique that requires a little bit of patience. So let's work this a little bit more internally and take some more of this weight out in the crown. So I'll pull out, go through, channel cut some of that because I want some weight removal and some separation. Continue to go through and channel some of this out until I feel like I got the weight and the length like I want here in the crown.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I think that's looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry and see if I need to do any texturizing on the top. I like the length that we got on the front. I think that that's looking you know pretty good through there. I like the length on the sides and the back down through here but we need to take a little bit more out through the ridge here because this shape is a little beveled and rounded off.   Thinning & Removing Length So I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. Now this is a nice clean middle of the road thinning scissor to take out some weight. The more times that I hit it, it will start to remove more length so I'm going to go through and thin this ridge out a little through here and I'm going to thin it a lot but I'm going to thin it on the end so I can take some of that length out and bevel the shape a little bit. So we're going to start low here. Make sure that my straight blade is on the bottom. Start at the bottom. Get the motor running and then go through and work that up and bevel my shape a little bit. The more that I do this, the cleaner that the shape is going to be. Now you don't want to necessarily go through and give a really really crude haircut on your client but you still want to keep that kind of rough and raw texture to it. So there's a fine line that I'm walking here between how much of this shape can I make it crude and how much of it needs to be clean and presentable and even. There we go. We're going to take some of that out through there. I like that better. Take a little bit of clay.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle from Se7en End Result Alright, here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think we got the texture right. I think the lengths are pretty good and it still has that kind of rawness to it that I think he had in the movie and so I'm pretty content with this. I'm pretty happy with that. When you're going to do the razor texturing on the top like I did where you're going across your fingers, make sure you turn the blade away from you as you're going across. If the hair is real thick it doesn't work too well. So just take a mohawk section and pinch it off like the other technique that I showed you if the hair is really really thick. That works just as well and it will give you a very very similar shape. I think you're looking pretty good. You're ready to go catch some criminals, but don't look in the box. Don't look in the box. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial