Jatai Academy Trend Connect Desktop Banner
Jatai Academy Trend Connect Mobile Banner

TREND CONNECT

Trend CONNECT puts 'what's new' together for you when it comes to the season's most current trend updates in fashion, hair design, make-up, skin care, nails and grooming products. From the runway to the red carpet, Trend CONNECT puts you in touch with what really impacts your world as a stylist, barber, nail artist or consumer.

SIGN UP FOR UPDATES
Filter

Tutorial

Bixie Haircut for Fine Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Bixie Haircut for Fine Hair Tutorial

What is a bixie cut? A bixie is a bob an pixie cut mixed together. The style is a modern take on short hair that's easy to wear with natural movement and volume. It compliments different face shapes and is a popular cut done in the salon. Minimal products are generally used. In this video we take a look at a short bixie haircut for fine hair. We look at different considerations when dealing with fine hair and recommendations on how to address it.  Watch this tutorial for how to do a low maintenance bixie haircut for fine hair and follow along with the transcript below.    Bixie Haircut for Fine Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a bixie haircut specifically for finer hair types. We're going to show you how to maintain the most thickness and fullness, but still get that iconic bixie shape with the razoring around the front. But we'll show you how to judiciously apply the razor so that you don't end up over texturizing it and taking all the weight out of it. So, let's get started.   Square-ish Graduation Separating the nape in the back. And then we're going to take a center section, separating left to right and top to bottom. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor, a 6-in scissor. I like this one for doing really tight, clean fitting work where I need a skinny pointy blade to be able to dial in exactly what I'm doing. It's a nice sharp blade and it lasts a long time. And this is probably my most used scissor. We're going to start with a center section, pulling that straight out from the head. And then I will cut a 45° angle into it. And I'll start to walk that guide from the center over to the right. I'll hold that out straight from the head, 90° from the head, cutting a 45° angle into it. Longer at the top, shorter at the bottom. I'll remove the first section that I took. Now I have my second and third section. I will hold those two together in the center of both of those sections. Hold it out 90 from the head and then cut my 45°ish angle into it following my previously cut guide. So, this is going to give me a walking square-ish graduation where the graduation is the same in the center of the head as it is the same as it gets closer to the ear. So, it's not triangular where it's shorter in the center and longer towards the ears. This is keeping my graduation all the same straight across the back. I'll continue to walk my guide until I get to the ear. And then I'll comb everything down and cross check it to make sure everything blends smoothly and cleanly. Now, right there at the bottom of the nape, I couldn't get my fingers tight enough. So, I'm taking that very first section right there, shorter, and tightening that up right at the very hairline of the nape. Now, I can control how long and how steep I want this graduation based upon how fine the person's hair is. The finer it is, it will usually respond better to a lower angle of graduation as opposed to higher.   Beveling and Point Cutting Now, we're going to go through and take my first horizontal section that's going to parallel the first section that I took, which was the occipital bone to the mastoid. I'm holding it at that elevation, which is peak curvature of the head. So, I'll lay my comb right at the parting, hold it at that elevation to continue to bevel my shape, and then I'm going to deep point cut this. I want these point cuts to be very prominent. I'm not going to go through and really whisper all these point cuts in there. The reason for that is if I make that point cut much more defined and definite, I'll have a little bit more solidity and weight to it as opposed to it just completely meshing all together. So, I'll be able to see the texture and the separation without removing so much weight. I'm going to follow along with my next parallel section as I work up the back of the head. Starting in the center again and then holding it off at this elevation right here, peak curvature of the head. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Now I'm continuing on with the same method I was doing before of making a very defined point cut as I hold it out at the peak curvature of graduation. By holding it out at that peak curvature, not only do I continue my graduation that I started from the bottom, but it bevels the shape a little bit. So I'm actually cutting a curved line into it, if you were to hold this out and cross check it. I'll continue on now. At this point, I don't hold it at peak curvature because as the head starts to go up and round, I want to maintain some weight. So, I'm holding it at the peak curvature of the parietal ridge, which is right there at the drop crown. And it's kind of, the parietal ridge is that area that they measure your head if you're going to get a fitted hat. It's uh the top of the recession and the bottom of the recession around the front that continues in a horse shoe halo shape all the way around and it separates the bottom of the head from the top of the head. Just continuing to work that until I run out of hair section by section as we work from the center of the back towards the front of the head. Here we go. We get a very nice clear shot of there. Making strong, diligent, defined point cuts as we're going through. Very little needs to be cut off. So, we're cutting very little.   Razor Cutting Around the Face Now, we're moving on to my Feather Styling Razor. This is the guarded razor, so I don't have to worry about cutting myself, but it still gives me a super clean cut. We're gonna take a section right around the front. I'm gonna hold this forward, and right there at the eyebrow, I'm going to cut a really, really steep line going from short to long. The long being right there where my little bob shape was. And I'm curving that shape forward. Now, we're going to go through and etch some of that out to make that hime piece right there at the front more defined. So, that's going to separate that piece because it's not going to blend in with the bob shape so much and it's going to pop out. Now, we're going to take the next section behind it, which is parallel to the front section, but I'm going to completely ignore my guide from underneath. I'm going to pull this forward and right about the tip of the nose, blend that from shorter to longer, not cutting into my guide of the bob length underneath. But I am creating a new guide at the top of the section. The next section I'll pull forward exactly the same as the previous section and cut from the tip of the nose down to my length. So that's going to give me that beveling around the front and the appearance of it being shorter without actually cutting the entire side shorter.   Curtain Bangs Now, let's go through and separate the top of the head. I'm separating right at the very front, which is going to be my bang piece. I'm going to pull the center out. Cut my shortest piece right there. I like to cut it a little shorter than I feel comfortable with to force that curtain bang to really pop. After I cut the center, I'm going to comb everything else forward and down and cut my overall length of where I'm going to. So, I have where I'm coming from right there in the center, which is my short piece. I have my going to, which is my long piece right there at each corner of the hairline, right around the front where my bang section is. And I'll go through and blend short to long. This is a very very steep angle and it requires a little bit of time to make sure everything fits in nice and perfectly and gets that short hair pushing longer hair movement that's really really iconic for a curtain bang. Shorter in the middle pushing to longer towards the edges just like that. Taking our next section here now completely ignoring underneath and just go through and razor some of this hair off. I'm just choosing a completely random guide about the tip of the nose. I'm not using that short piece where I started my curtain bang underneath. And I'll go through and point cut this where I'm not necessarily just point cutting the tip, but I am cutting a channel in it where it's going shorter from the center, longer to the right, and then shorter from the right and longer to the center. So, I'm actually going through and cutting these real steep angles internally in the section to cut all of that length off that I don't want. I'm completely ignoring the sides, completely ignoring the underneath, and allowing this hair to hang over. I can fine-tune it as I need to as the hair starts to get more and more cut. And I see how the shape is developing.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Separation and Weight Removal Continuing on, just following the same methodology, channel razoring some of this out to get a lot of separation and some weight removal. Now, because I'm going through and removing weight specifically around the front and on the top, that allows me to leave the weight on the sides so I can still have a thicker, fuller shape. And this works extremely well on finer hair textures. Disconnections work well, especially when you're trying to get something that's very, very textured like this shape is. Now, from here, after I've cut the front and I've got everything like I want, that's completely disconnected from the sides, I'm going to go through and take a center section on the top. I'm going to pull this straight up in the air. And then I'm going to go through and take some of that length out so I start getting more of a pixie shape on top. Going from back to front, keeping everything nice and short. I will probably cut this shorter than I feel comfortable because I want it to pop and I need that those shorter layers in there to make that pixie really really pop. After I cut my center section, using that as the guide, taking my next section on the left side of the head, holding that into the center of the head, keeping the same razor stroke that I was using, the more consistent that I can keep the razor stroke, the more consistent my end results are going to be. Now, right through here, I'm starting to run out of hair. Now, we've got uh our last section right here on top. I'm not going to continue to pull the sides up, only the very, very top section that I was cutting my pixie on. I'm leaving the sides to be my bob shape. So, it's really actually two haircuts. I got a pixie on the top of the head and I got a bob underneath. Now, they both have a little bit of texture so that allows them to blend. And as long as I keep it fitting the head properly, everything's going to blend nice. Check everything out. Fine-tune as needed. And this is looking pretty good. Let's blow dry.   Bixie for Fine Hair Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking, you know, I think we're looking really good. I like this shape. I like the fact that we've got this bixie kind of top in front, which is really the iconic part of it where you get this little pixie top and then you have this bobbed shape in the back. Most pixie bixie haircuts, they're going to pixie it from the front and then bob it in the back. So, what we're doing is we're bobbing it underneath and keeping the pixie on the top. So, I think we still get this iconic kind of razor bang. We get this little hime piece right here on the side, which I really like. And we still maintain a nice amount of fullness in the back. So, we can still get that graduation and that pop and stack. You can remove as much hair as you need or you can leave as much hair as you need depending upon the client's hair texture and thickness and density. So, give it a shot. Add this to your repertoire and I think it will open up a world of possibilities for you. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.
Trendy Broccoli Teenage Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Trendy Broccoli Teenage Haircut Tutorial

The broccoli teenage haircut is a popular textured crop style that consists of a curly textured top and a taper fade in the back. Popularized by teens, specifically boys, it's a natural look that requires just a little styling cream. Disheveled mod teen haircuts usually have natural movement and a low fade. The hair has a longer top and the texture adds volume. This leaves somewhat of a fringe where the hair can go right to eye level. It works best with normal to thick hair types and curly or wavy hair.  Watch this broccoli teenage haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Disheveled Broccoli Teenage Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing the messy curly mod that's got a slight taper to it. Better known as the broccoli or the llama cut. All the kids love this haircut today. So, we're going to show you how to make sure you taper in the sides just enough to keep it clean without removing all your length. We're going to show you how to taper in the back real nice, but also more importantly, how to blend the bottom to the top where it transitions from straight hair to curly hair without getting a shelf. And we're also going to leave the bangs long enough just to irritate your mom. So, let's get started. Cutting the Sides Starting off with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. It has a long, thin blade, so I can cut a lot of hair at one time because the blade is so long, but also because it has a nice clean point on it that I can do a lot of detailing with it where I need to. So, I'm going to take my first section at an angle right there at the front of the hairline, and I'm going to pull that slightly forward and angle my fingertips away from the head. So, I'm getting longer at the top of the section and tapering it in shorter at the bottom of the section near the hairline. So, you'll see my knuckles are planted and my fingertips are actually elevated away from the head as I'm pulling it slightly forward. So, what this does is this not only gives me graduation from the hairline as it gets longer up the section, it also graduates it from the front to back. So, I'm not only introducing graduation from the bottom to the top, it's graduation from the front to the back. Now, I'll just follow this same hairline, the same sectioning that I started at the front hairline all the way down into the nape into the center of the head. I'll follow that same section. I'll walk my guide back. I'll pull this slightly forward to the previously cut section. And as I get behind the ear, you'll see that it will continue to taper in tighter and tighter at the nape. Now, I can only cut it as short as my fingers show. I can't cut it shorter than my fingers holding it in my hand. So, this is just giving me a foundational shape that I will go back and fine-tune with the clippers to taper it in cleaner down at the nape. Now, I'm walking my guide from the front all the way into the center of the back. And the way you walk your guide is you take your first section, you hold it however you want, you add section number two to the first section, and you cut section number two. I remove section number one, and then I add section number three. And then so on and so on until I get all the way to the center of the back of the head. Now, once I finish this section right here, I'm going to check the lengths and make sure everything is exactly like I want it. After I got the lengths on both sides like I want, I'm going to go back and just make it cleaner around the ear. So, I'm not going to taper the sides really, really tight like I will the back, but this will make the whole shape look super clean just by outlining the ear a little bit. Now, I'm going to add a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide. This keeps a consistent moisture content throughout the entirety of the haircut and also makes the cuticle compact so it's easier to comb and detangle and gives me a cleaner cut. Now, we're going to go back and do the same thing on the other side. I've got my first section here. I'm going to try to match sides. Now, easy way for me to match is after I take that first section, I'll check the lengths at the top because I know that length at the bottom is going to be tapered tight. So, I'll just change my angle to make sure I get everything the same on both sides. Tapering with Clipper Over Comb Now, I'm going to go through with my clipper and do a little clipper over comb just so that I can make that nape a little bit tighter. I want to make it clean and tight and a little tapered. I'm not going to necessarily go through and fade the whole thing in, though you can if you want to. I just want to taper this in nice and clean.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Now, we're just going to continue our clipper over comb so I can taper that in nice and tight. And I'm working from the center over to the ear. I'm not going to go up past the mastoid, which is that bump right behind the ear. I'm taking everything up to that. And I will tend to not round this out. The modern barber tapering that they're doing on these longer cuts is kind of a square-ish taper around the back where they're leaving a little bit of length right there behind the ear at the mastoid. Graduating the Back So now after we finish tapering in the back like we want, we're going to go through and take a center part on top where the head starts to curve back. That's going to separate the front from the back of the head. So where the head is curving down, that gives me all the hair that falls behind the back and then all the hair that falls in the front. So now we're going to take a center section after we've taken our center parting. Now we're going to take a center section. I'm going to hold this out vertically and using the length that I had from underneath where my initial taper was. I'm going to continue that same angle of graduation up and out. So, I'm just following whatever that angle was and taking everything up and out. Now, as I'm working on this shape, I'm not too concerned with that transition area between where the hair is shorter and straighter and where the hair starts to curl. You can see that kind of corner pop out right there. I'm just going to pivot from the center section. So, now I have my center initial section. I have pivoted around to the right side. I'll use the center as my guide. Hold that out. Cut whatever hangs off from my previously cut guide and continue that graduation up and out. Now, as I was saying before, I'm not worried about where it transitions from straight to curly cuz you'll always tend to get a little bit of a ridge and sometimes an indentation there. But I'm not worried about it. We'll go back and clean that up and fine-tune that later. Right now, I'm just getting my lengths to fit in to make sure everything blends from bottom to the top. I'll remove my center section, which was the first section, and continue to walk my guide over towards the corner of the hairline. So, whatever hangs out from my previously cut guide, I'll cut that off. And then make sure everything is nice and clean. And that's looking pretty good. Now, my last section here, I'm not continuing to pull this all the way 90° from the head. I'm actually going to take it right to the corner of the hairline right there. So where that is, that's where I'm pulling that side section to because I want to build up a little bit of a corner right through there so that I can transition into the sides. It's just a more modern interpretation of this that you see a lot of these barbers doing where they're leaving a little weight behind the ear right there as opposed to tapering everything all the way around. Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @JataiFeather Now going back and doing the same thing on the other side. Taking my center section and then pivoting on the other side. Cutting the Top Sides After I finish that, I'll come into the side of the head. Take a horizontal section. Hold this straight out. Find my guide from the back, not from underneath. Hold that out at elevation. And then go through and point cut, leaving a little longer length in the front, but using that length from the back of the head as my guide length. I want this to hit just at the top of the ear. A little over the ear is okay, but I don't want to get it too long over the ear where it starts to look kind of mushroom-y. I want to make sure that I have enough length to maintain the shape, but not so much that it starts to puff out. And that's why undercutting that side helps keep it from being too puffy. The next section after I've cut the first. I'll follow that and continue to elevate each section a little bit higher as I work up the head. So, I'm not pulling it down. I'm pulling it perpendicular to the top of the parting. So, wherever the top of the parting is, that's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. Continuing to follow everything through to make sure nothing hangs over. And following that all the way through, leaving a little bit of length right there at the front. And that's looking pretty good right through there. My last section and very little to cut. So, no problem there. Very little. Perfect. After we got that cut, we want to check the lengths and make sure everything blends like we want and it's the right length for the shape. Now, we're going to take a section straight across the front of the head. Because I'm pulling everything to the sides, I want to make sure I don't have too much of a point build up right there at the front. So, that was already cut, so I don't have to worry about that. But, if there was a point, I would cut that off. Clipper Cutting Now, we're going to go through and diffuse just to get all the curls kind of dry and exaggerate that shelf in the back so that I can fine-tune and clean that up. Now, after I've got everything dry, cuz clippers cut better on dry hair, I'm going to take the guard. This is about a one and a half. And I want to just go through and taper that in a little bit tighter right there at the nape. So the last probably 1 in of the hairline right there, one inch of the of the section, I'm just going to taper that up and out. So I make sure that the clipper is touching the head right at the hairline and then kind of freehand that up and out. This will make it much cleaner and tighter around the nape. Now I've moved down to a half size blade and I'm just taking that little bit of hair off right at the hairline just to make sure it fits in real nice and clean. The take your time and be patient. Make sure it's clean. Refining with Thinning Scissors Now I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is the perfect thinning scissor, blending scissor to make sure you can get all your shapes blended and have the right amount of texture to it. Now, where that shelf is, I'm just going to go through and freehand scissor. Just freehand it. Anything that sticks out, I'm going to go through and thin off to make sure I can blend any kind of shelf that happens to stick out where I'm transitioning from short to long. If it's thicker, I use a little scissor over comb just to make sure everything blends. Be patient and diligent and it will all blend perfectly. Final Look Alright, here's our end result. And I think that we're looking pretty good. We've got a nice amount of irritating curl in the front that they can hide behind. They can hide their eyes behind or if you push it to the side, you get a little bit of a K-pop feel for teenage guys. But, you know, the whole idea of this haircut is to just have this mess of curl and it's not real structured. So, then we taper it in around the edges. We taper it in our nape. But there are no tapered sides, just the back.  And the hardest part is just the transition from the bottom to the top where you go from straighter to curlier hair. And that just all requires fine-tuning on your part. Fine-tuning of free-handing it, thinning it out a little bit, and then free-handing it again to make sure it pops in just right. And I think we're looking pretty good. I think this is just enough to make your mom angry that she's asking, "Why didn't you cut more of it off?" So, I think it's perfect. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so for Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Hime Japanese Princess Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Hime Japanese Princess Haircut Tutorial

A Japanese princess cut has a very distinct look. It's a long-standing traditional hairstyle that dates back to the Heian Period. It is characterized by straight hair that's one length in the back, a straight fringe and hime sections that frame the face shape. There are no layers, just distinct sections. The styling is easy and just requires a round brush and blow dryer. Hime style hair represents high status and a look of elegance.  The hime cut hairstyle has been re-interpreted in Japanese culture through anime, music groups and other pop culture influences. This Japanese hime cut tutorial will walk you through the full haircut using scissors and explain how to do the front bangs with long hair and of course the hime sections. Watch the tutorial below and follow along with the transcript.    Hime Japanese Princess Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing the most classic of all haircuts, the hime cut. This is made popular in Japan by all the princesses. The princesses would wear this haircut to designate that they were royalty. So all the girls that wear this, they're designating that they're princess and they're royalty. It's very iconic with all one length. The longer the hair, the better. Blunt bangs straight across and then this accent piece that usually hits right around the jawline, maybe a little longer. It's very iconic and I love this shape in this haircut. We're going to show you how to do it perfectly, how to get nice blunt lines, how to measure where you want to get your bangs and you want to get your jawline. So, let's get started. So, the foundation of our hime cut is basically everything's one length in the back and all the way around. I have my blunt bangs that are probably a little soft and then I have my hime piece.   Establishing the Length So to start with my overall length, I'm going to take a center part to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's going to separate the flat in the back of the head. This is the area where this skin on the neck on the nape of the neck expands. So if their head is tilted down, it actually expands. So when I cut it and they look straight back up, it's going to actually undercut the section. If I have them looking straight forward, it's going to tend to cut the section much more blunt, especially if I'm keeping everything perpendicular and blunt. Now, if I have someone with very, very thick hair that tends to get broom-like, I'll tilt the head forward so I can undercut that and soften that edge. If I have someone with finer hair, I may want to keep it as blunt as possible and have them just looking straight ahead. So, we're going to start right in the center. I'm going to section this out and keep it nice and clean. So, since we're going to go through and cut this blunt, I'm going to go through and practice my fundamentals on cutting everything really, really blunt. So, to do that, I want to make sure I maintain very, very clean sections. Clean sections makes it easier to comb. Clean combing is imperative to cutting a clean blunt line. Then, I'm going to use my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest scissor I have. It's a nice fat blade, so it has a lot of weight behind it when I go through and cut. So, it gives me the cleanest cut that I can get. The blade is very, very sharp. The metal is very hard, but it wears really, really well. It lasts for a long time. This is my favorite Jatai scissor. Now, I'm going to comb clean from the root all the way down. You'll notice that I'll flip my comb away from me so that I can comb everything at the root nice and clean. Comb that all the way down. Flip my comb to build up any kind of tension. That's the only tension that I'm getting is right from the comb tension. I have no tension being built up from my fingers. You'll notice that my fingers are now perpendicular to the section. I'm not flipping that at all. I want to keep this as blunt as possible. Now I'll take my scissor and cut on the backstroke to maintain a nice clean cut. If I just close the blade, it pushes the hair out of the blade and I end up with a line that hooks to a little point and then cuts back in. So I end up with a crooked line. Clean from the root all the way down. Make sure I got my line there. Perfectly straight and through.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Everything gets combed straight down in its natural fall. No tension other than what the comb gives me. There's my line. Cut that straight across and through. Now, I'm going to work on the other side. If I feel like my fingers aren't long enough to cut the whole section. I can break that in half. So, I have the center as my guide. I have my first half. I'm combing in natural fall. Now, I notice that the head's tilted a little bit. So, I'm going to comb everything tilted. If that throws me off visually and I tend to drag, then I want to make sure everything is nice and square and perpendicular so that when I go to cut it, it gives me the greatest chance of going through and cutting a blunt, clean, even line. Last section. Cut that down and through. Now, from here, I will go through, check the sides, make sure that they're even, and they look pretty good. So, now I'm going to go through and continue taking parallel sections all the way up until I run out of hair. It's important that I keep the moisture content of the hair all consistent throughout the whole cut. I don't want one part to be really wet and one part to be drying. I'm going to get inconsistent results. So, I'm going to use some Jatai Blade Glide. This is going to go through, slightly detangle. It works as a leave-in conditioner, but it also compacts the cuticle, so I have an easier time of combing it and give more consistent results. As I work up the head and I start getting into sections that cover from the back into the sides, a lot of people will separate the back from the side of the head. I don't do that. I keep my consistent sections going all the way around. If that is my angle that I'm working on, I'm going to take the exact same angle, come on baby, as I work from sides into the back so that as I cut my line, I can continue that around the front. I find it's more difficult to cut the back and then come in and cut the sides than it is to just cut from the back into the side in one stroke. Now, here in the back, I'm going to go through and do exactly the same pattern and methodology I was doing before, combing everything clean from the root. Anytime I see these little bands of hair, I want to make sure I get everything combed clean from the roots all the way down. Turn the comb away. Once I hit about the hairline, I rotate. No tension. Just whatever the comb gives me. Follow my previously cut guide. All the way down. There's my previously cut guide from the back. Cut that blunt all the way through. Perfect.   Cutting the Fringe All right. So, now let's go through and section out our fringe, our little bangs. I'm gonna take the first bump of the head where the head starts to curve back and I'm gonna go right to the corner of the hairline right at the recession. Take about half of it because if the section gets too thick and I'm trying to cut it, it just doesn't want to cooperate. It always becomes difficult to cut. So, I want to make this as easy for me as possible. And especially since I'm trying to get something so strategically placed where it's right at the eyebrow. So, I'll start right here in the center. And I'm going to do the same thing I was doing in the back. Comb everything clean from the root. Lay my finger right at the crux of the nose. No tension other than what my fingers give me. And then let's go through, cut this straight across on the backstroke. That way I can get that nice and blunt. If I feel that that's going to be a little too long when it dries, I can cut more off. And I think I'm going to, I'm going to cut a little bit more. Just a wee bit more. I'd rather it be too long after everything gets dry than it be too short. Because if it's too long, it's easy to go through and fix. If it's too short, it's a little more difficult. So, let's continue on with that length. Everything straight down. Cut that across. See how that's looking. Come on, baby. Your eyelashes are getting in the way. There we go. Take our next section. Comb this straight down into my previous section. And the exact same thing. Comb clean from the root all the way down. There's my guide. Cut directly on top of the guide. Not longer, not shorter, exactly on top of the guide. That's why doing a one length haircut is so good for your fundamental skills is because you're having to focus on everything. You're focusing on body position. You're focusing on cutting directly on top of the line. You're focusing on combing everything clean, not getting your body in the way and hooking your sections as you comb it. Everything clean straight down. This will magnify any flaws in your technique. We're going to look at that. And I think that that's looking pretty good. When I dry it, I may modify it a little bit. I think I'm going to point cut it a little bit just to soften it up.   Creating the Hime Sections Now, let's put our hime piece, which I want to kind of hit right at the jaw. I think that's the most striking. Depending upon how exaggerated I want my Hime piece to be is going to determine how thick the section is. I could take it from the second bump all the way down to the front corner of the hairline and have a pretty strong piece. Now, I can take less. I could take less of this and push that back. And I want to just kind of comb this down and see how much of a piece I want to stick out. So I think I'm gonna go right at the bottom of the recession from the second bump of the head. Comb that straight down in natural fall. Angle my fingers the same as the jawline.   Give us a thumbs up. Click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   And I think that that's going to be pretty righteous. Yes. Then when I comb all of this down, yes, I think that's going to be the perfect amount to give me a little pop right there at the front but still have all this hair long on the sides. What you got to watch out for is taking the section too far back and this becoming uh to where it falls behind the shoulder, not in front of the shoulder. Now, let's go through and do the same thing on the other side. And I think that that's looking pretty fire. Pretty fire. Pretty fire. Pretty sugoi (amazing). There we go. All right. So, now let's blow it dry and see what we got. See what we need to modify.   Final Look of the Japanese Hime Haircut There we go. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a nice end result. We have the hime piece that hits right at the jawline, which is my favorite length for it to hit. Sometimes it's a little longer. And as long as it exaggerates itself and pops away from the rest of the hair, I think the shape really looks good. We have Japanese hair bangs that are straight right at the eyeballs and that's really the style. Especially in Japan, those girls, I don't see how they can do it. They have it just perfect right in the eyeballs. It drive me crazy if I had hair. But such is the style. We got nice one length straight cut hair here. Everything's nice and clean. And this shape really lends itself to like ponytails or even, you know, pigtail type of shapes like Atarashii Gakko. And I think it looks really good, really modern with this kind of shape. Even though this is the most classic of all classic haircuts that there is. So please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylists and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much.
Razored French Bob without Bangs and Flipped Out Ends Tutorial

Tutorial

Razored French Bob without Bangs and Flipped Out Ends Tutorial

In this French Bob without bangs chic haircut, Russell takes a classic French bob haircut adds a modern element of flipped ends at chin length. This is a style that works best on straight hair (not curly). You will love the final result! Watch the video tutorial below or read along below with the transcript and learn now to create a French bob without bangs straight hair.  French Bob without Bangs and Flipped Ends Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Most bobs you see are kind of cupped under and curved and smooth. We're going to try to do something today that flicks out, gives it some pizzazz and some cool little anime texture to it. So, let's get started.   The Graduation with Vertical Sections So, we're going to start with a center part in the back of the head. Separate the left from the right. Then we're going to go a little above the occipital bone right to the mastoid behind the ear. Then we're going to use our Feather Plier Razor. This is a no guard razor. It gives me the cleanest cut and the most control of each cut line that I do. So be careful with this. Be mindful once you learn how to use it. It is a brilliant, brilliant tool. We're going to take a vertical section in the center of the back of the nape. I'm gonna hold that out and imagine what angle of graduation that I want to start building. So, I'm going to start cutting from long and then angling that into the short right at the very hairline in the nape. Make sure I get that clean. Clean up that little bit right there at the hairline. Find out if that's my graduation that I want. Then I'll take a parallel section as I walk that guide from the center of the back over to the right side of the head. So I'll combine the first section that I cut with the second section using the first section as my guide and then continue walking that all the way over until I run out of hair at the area right behind the ear at the mastoid. It's going to give me a nice clean graduation. Make sure that I don't have any lengths hanging off of the back underneath. And then we're going to do the same thing to the other side. You can see the end result here of this right side. We do the same on the other side.   Encouraging the Flip And then we're going to take a parallel section as I walk up the back of the head. This is the same angle I was cutting underneath. But instead of holding this vertically, now I'm going to transition into horizontal sections. And I'm gonna hold this out at whatever length that I think my little French bob is going to be, which is usually below the ear, right at the chin, maybe in between the chin and the ear. I'll hold that down. Take a long broad razor stroke and cut that as one length as possible, but still maintaining a soft edge to it because I'm taking a very, very broad razor stroke. Checking and seeing if I have enough texture. If I don't have enough texture to where it will separate, then I'll take a longer, broader razor stroke so I can make sure I have a softness that I'm looking for to make this easy to style and to help it flip up. Because I'm holding this parallel to the section that I'm cutting, I'm actually cutting the surface layer slightly shorter than the underneath layer. So, it's going to get more texture than the hair underneath of the section than on top of the section. That is going to encourage all of this hair to want to flip up and build a lot of movement into it. Whereas, if I was to just hold this very, very flat, take a real short razor stroke and cut from the left to the right, that would give me more movement horizontally, but not vertically. It won't allow that hair to flip up and flick out as much. It will make it move from center to the front more so. So, every way that I apply my cut with the razor is going to affect the way that the hair wants to move afterwards. After I cut my first section there, I get my length the way that I want. I do the same thing on the other side. Now, I'll take my next horizontal section as I work from the back of the head around into the side of the head. I'll take a horizontal section, hold that down, follow my previously cut guide from underneath. Check that. See how the texture looks. That looks good. And follow my guide from underneath as I work from the center back into the side of the head in front of the ear. Just continuing to comb everything clean, trying to keep my razor stroke the exact same width with each subsequent section that I cut. Now, here we're moving into the side. The one side's easy to do, but then matching the other side is a little bit more difficult. So, the first side I cut and then match it on the other side.   Also, give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to take our next section, which is parallel to the section I took underneath. Start in the center again. The exact same sectioning pattern that I was using before. And I'll keep working up the head until I run out of hair. Making sure everything is cut with the same broad razor stroke until I run out of hair. Working from the center back all the way into the sides. And I'll do that on both sides. Start in the center and work to the front on each side, left and right. Checking my lengths to make sure I get the sides even. And then moving on to the next section. Here's our last section. We've got just a little bit of hair hanging off here in the back. Not a whole lot, but we've got a little bit there on the side. So, I'll make sure that we get everything smooth and cut that same length so we have a nice pleasing shape. Now, after I cut my length and I use that broad stroke, there's going to be some longer pieces that hang out. And that's what you'll see me pinching and then cutting to make sure that I don't have any real super long pieces hang out like that piece I just cut right there. Right there is another one. And anything that hangs out too long I'll cut off.   Creating Separation and Balance Now I'll go through and take a vertical section starting with a pie section from the crown all the way to the nape. I'll take out the very underneath hair that I previously cut. And now I want to go through and channel a little bit so I can get some more separation and also make sure that the top of the head the thickness matches the thickness from underneath because a lot of times people will have one area that's thicker than another area. And I want to balance those areas out so that one thick area doesn't stand out more so than another area that's thin. This will come with experience and you'll start to feel where the hair is thicker on one side, thinner on the other side, thicker on top, maybe thicker underneath. And I want to balance that out as much as I can. So going through and taking a nice vertical channel section like this is a really easy way to go through and get separation and even out the thickness throughout the entirety of the haircut.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Continuing to work from the center back all the way around into the sides until I get to the front of the head. And just being very, very methodical and trying to take out as much as needed, but not so much that I start to overly thin it and make the hair get sparse in one area. So, just be diligent and patient and methodical with your approach of your texturizing. Now, we're just going to go through and check everything out. Make sure I got the textures like I want. Make sure that we've got our lengths like we want. We can see how if we were to let that air dry, that would dry very nice and soft and disheveled, but not completely out of control.   Blowdrying Now, we're going to go through and blow it dry. And I'm going to use my hands to get some fullness underneath. And this is what I wish we could do with most clients and just pick them up, turn their head upside down, and blow it. This makes it very easy to blow the nape and get a lot of volume without me having to overwork it. Now, I'll use my hands to separate the sections on the bottom and to start encouraging my hair to flip out. That's looking good.   Final Look Here's our end result. And I think that this looks pretty good. I like the texture of it. It has this kind of anime feel to it. And obviously, the more that you exaggerate this kind of shape through here and get this to really piece out and separate, the more anime that you're going to get. If you were to allow this shape to dry naturally, it would be much smoother and closer to the head and look more natural and not be as exaggerated as this. You could also go through with a little curling iron and put a little bit of wave to it and make it look very very soft and very feminine and pretty. This shape is very versatile. The texture makes it easy to style in a hundred different ways. So add this to your repertoire and I think it will open up a world of possibilities for your clients and for you as well. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Ultra Short Bob Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Ultra Short Bob Haircut Tutorial

When it comes to bob hairstyles, short bobs have a certain edgy style that can also be structured and clean. This bob haircut creates very short hair with no layers or curls. Nor does it have any added texture or volume. It's completely straight. It's probably not the best look for fine hair or very thick hair, but it can compliment certain face shapes. The ultra short bob is cut fully with scissors with some razored bangs. Very little beauty products are used to style the hair. Watch the video below and follow along with this transcript.   Ultra Short Bob Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a super short bob with bangs. The bob that has the perfect balance between edgy and cute. It's going to be so short, shorter than a French bob, but not so short that it gets into bowl cut territory. I'm going to show you how to section it properly. I'm going to show you how to make sure you get a clean line, and we're going to throw in some super soft bangs. So, let's get started. We're going to start with a natural or center part. We're going to take just above the occipital bone to about the middle of the ear on each side. This is going to section out the nape section where I'm going to taper this in nice and clean.   Cutting the Length at the Nape I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is my favorite scissor for doing scissor over comb with, which we're going to get into in a little bit. I'm going to start cutting it finger length right at the nape. And then I'm going to follow that slowly up the back of the head. So I'm going to cut everything the same length in the nape section through here. So each section I'll go a little bit higher following my guide from underneath and just working that all the way up and out. That way, if I have a lot of hair, this allows me to get rid of the bulk of that hair without having to worry about being real meticulous and real precise with my tapering. This is more of let's just remove this excess hair that will allow me to dial it in much cleaner and I won't have to fight it when I start doing any kind of scissor over comb work that I'm going to do or in areas that I want to taper really nice and clean. I'll cut a basic shape, get rid of the length, and then start to fine-tune the shape. Now, we're going to go through with my scissor over comb. And with this, I want to trace what I've already put in. I'm not going to go through and cut everything finger length and then go back and lay the comb against the head and cut everything the length of the comb. That's just doubling the work. So I go through and cut it finger length to build up the length that I want. And then I go back in with my scissor over comb and fine-tune the shape. So the idea behind fine-tuning the shape is I want to trace what's already there. And anything that sticks out beyond what I'm tracing gets cut off and allows me to clean up the shape with each pass. After I get the shape done closely like I want, then I'll go through and start cleaning up the perimeter shape. And then also this little perimeter area right behind the ear. Be very delicate through there. And just go through and start to clean up my perimeter. Now, any hair that's kind of sticking out and porcupining out, I'm just going to go through and scissor just like I would cut a hedge. I'm just...anything that cuts, anything that sticks out, I'm going to cut off. Gently laying my scissor against the hair and just tracing what's already there to clean up the shape.   Cutting the Rest of the Length Now, we're going to move on to my next section. And I'm taking about an inch section as I go up. I'm now I'm going to switch to my Jatai Kyoto Scissor. The reason I'm switching scissors is this is the sharpest, heaviest bladed scissor that I have. So that when I go through to cut a really clean line, this will give me the cleanest line with the least amount of scissor push that I can have of all of my tools. So when I want a really, really clean line, I'm going to use my Kyoto Scissor. I'll cut the initial length. Look at where that that falls on the ear. And if that needs to be a little shorter, I'll cut it a little shorter. So, I'm looking where it's going to the ear because I want this to hit the bottom of the ear. I don't want it to be longer than the ear, but not quite in the middle, but I want like the earlobe-ish length. So, I'll start in the center and slowly work that line towards the ear. When I'm combing each section down, I am using zero tension. The only tension that I have is whatever the comb has given me. So, I have to be very, very mindful that as I'm combing this down to not lay my fingers and drag my fingers across the section so that I introduce any sort of tension, which is going to cause the hair to spring up and graduate After I get my initial line like I want, I'll take my next section as I move up the head. Start in the center exactly the same way I was doing before. Comb this nice and clean from the roots all the way to my fingers. Then once I get to the length that I want to cut it, clamp my fingers down, go through, cut everything perpendicular to the hair. You'll notice that I'm not flipping my fingers up. I'm keeping everything held down low and perpendicular to the section. If I start to roll my fingers up, that's going to give me a little bit of graduation and cut the top layer a little shorter than the underneath layer. And it's going to really, really show on a simple haircut like this. Since this is such a simple line, it's going to magnify any little mistake, any little graduation that you get. Now, I'm not going to be super neurotic about making sure that everything is absolutely flawless and work myself to death, but I want to maintain proper technique. So, it gives me the best chance of success that I can get. So, it requires, it will require, let me get that straight, less clean up. The less I clean up afterwards, the better. Now, I could sit here all day and clean this line up and clean it up and cut it and clean it up and cut it, but then I'll end up with no hair left. So, there's a certain amount of diminishing returns of cleaning it up. I can only clean it up so much before I have no hair left. So, now we're going with our next section. The same methodology I was using before. Comb everything clean from the root, zero tension, clamp my fingers, and then cut straight across. This will give me the least amount of graduation and the cleanest straightest line that I can possibly get. The thing about cutting one length is it will show all of your technical flaws. Are you combing it straight? Are you cutting it perpendicular? Are you flipping your fingers? Are you flipping the scissor? Are you cutting it directly on top of your previously cut guide or shorter or longer? A simple shape reveals all of your flaws. So, you have to pay attention to that.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to go through here with our last section. Again, no tension. The more tension that you apply, the more graduation that you're going to get and the more it's going to spring up. Especially on thick springy mannequin hair like this or with someone that has a lot of cowlicks. Tension will make a cowlick spring up and it will be Alfalfa all over the place. So make sure as least amount of tension as possible. Here we're coming to our last section. Looking pretty decent there. Now I'm not trying to get it perfect when it's wet. After it's dry, I can go through and clean it up a little bit more. That's looking pretty good. I like the length there. It's just showing a little bit of the bottom of the earlobe, which I like.   Razored Bangs Now, I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor, and I'm using the Standard Blade, and I'm going to take my bang section, comb everything straight down. Now I'm holding in my left hand with a lot of tension so I can keep that real taunt and then gently applying the razor to the top surface of the of the section so I can cut everything off to the length that I want. I'm taking a pretty broad stroke so I can keep this very very soft. The broader the stroke, the softer the end result. The shorter the stroke, the cleaner and more blunt that the end result's going to be. And I'm liking that. So now we're going to continue on to the right side of her hair and then comb that down following my guide from the middle gently running my razor across the section and clean up as needed. So even though I'm taking a broad stroke, I still want a straight line across the face. So I'm keeping my left hand stationary so that my line doesn't drag or waver and get longer towards one side or the other. I'm trying to keep that as even as possible. Now, even though I've used a really long stroke, sometimes I have a little bit of weight buildup somewhere that I don't want. So, I'm going to comb everything down and then just take the razor and gently comb across the top of the hair. And that way, I'll start to remove a little bit of length. And it won't be introducing any kind of separation. It's only going to thin it out nice and evenly across the entire section. Gently apply the razor. Don't get aggressive with this. So, you end up with patches. You'll end up with patches. Looking good. Now, let's go through and blow it dry. I put a little bit of cream on it to help smooth it out. Using my Du-Boa Brush to get everything nice and smooth.   Softening the Line Now, I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a nice thinning scissor that has the perfect amount of blend and the perfect amount of weight removal. I'm going to start at the bottom and trace my line that I've already cut. As I go up into my bob line, I'm only texturizing the very, very tips of the section. What that's going to do is that's going to give me a softening of my line. It's not going to change the shape. It's just going to soften that edge. And you can see right through there how it softened and beveled that line just a little bit so it doesn't look so lumpy and it doesn't look so overly thick. It softens up the back of the shape. But since I still have that hard edge line right around the sides, this blends perfectly with the hair as it transitions into the side of the head. Now in the bottom, I'm just going to go through and retrace what's there as I get into my bob line, just the very eighth inch of the tips to just soften that edge up. And that's looking pretty smooth. I like how that's beveling that edge just a little bit.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And we just keep working until everything is polished and finished exactly like we want.   Final Look of the Very Short Bob Haircut Here's our end result of this short short bob. And I think that this looks pretty good. I really like this hard line that we have here on the sides and it being at an uncomfortably short length for most people that are going to wear a bob. This is going to be too short for them. So, I think because it's shorter than common, it adds that kind of edgy aesthetic to it. But at the same time, because we've beveled this line in the back, but still have a good solid line. It softens the shape up, especially from the back. And then these super short 'kawaii' cute bangs I think really add to it overall. Gives us the perfect balance between edge and cute. I like it. So add the technique of no tension one length cutting to your repertoire. I think that will go a long way towards enhancing your overall skills. Also check out the JATAI Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Comment below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  
Timothee Chalamet Haircut Tutorial from Dune

Tutorial

Timothee Chalamet Haircut Tutorial from Dune

In this Timothee Chalamet haircut tutorial, we look at a rising star who has been in many big name movies including the Dune series, Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, A Complete Unknown and Marty Supreme. In this video we re-create the Timothée Chalamet Dune haircut which is a longer style with curly hair. Follow along with the transcript and watch the video here.    Timothee Chalamet Haircut Tutorial:  Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing the best hair in Hollywood, Timothée Chalamet. It is iconic from him starring in Dune. I think it's the coolest haircut that we have seen in a long time. It has just enough length to give it some style, but not so much that it looks completely disheveled and out of sorts. I'm going to show you how to get the right amount of graduation, the right amount of layering to keep it from looking too bubbly and round, but just the right amount of style. So, let's get started.   Establishing the Length in the Back So, we're going to start in the center back. We're going to take a middle part all the way down the back. We're going to go from the occipital bone to the mastoid. That's going to give us our first flat section in the back. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. I want a nice long blade. This is 6 in. It's got a good clean point, so I can cut a lot of hair with one section with a longer blade. Tilt my head down. Take a center section right through here. Now, when I'm cutting curly hair, I want to minimize the amount of tension that I put on the hair. So, that minimizes the amount of push back that I get when I cut it and release it. The more tension that I put on curly hair when I cut it, the more graduation that I'm going to get. Comb straight down. Find the length that I want. Look at the face. See where that wants to be. Little to no tension. The only tension I'm getting is whatever the comb gives me. I'll clamp my fingers down. Cut that straight across. Comb it again to check and make sure that looks good. That looks good. Now, we're going to take our next section. I'm going to split that in half because it's so wide. Comb that straight down in its natural fall. There's my guide. The only tension that I'm getting is from the comb. After I cut the first section, I want to encourage the curl to see how short it's going to fall in relation to the rest of the haircut and the rest of their head. I want to see where that's going to fit. So, I'm going to encourage that to kind of curl up. I'm not looking for a clean line. I'm looking for overall length. Take a parallel section.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Again going through and taking a center section. So since I saw his haircut and it's graduated on the bottom lengths and layered on the top lengths, I'm going to start my graduation. Now I may increase it as we go, but I'm going to start here and I'm going to hold it at that elevation right there. So that's going to bevel my line as I go up and give me a little bit of stack. It's also going to encourage this hair to curl up. There's my length from underneath. Cut that straight across. So, by elevating it, it's going to cut that top layer a little shorter than the underneath layer, which will encourage graduation. And I'm just going off the elevation that the head shape is showing me. So, I put my comb there. That's the elevation. That's the elevation. That's the elevation. As I go up the head, the elevation increases. Again, let's encourage that curl. See what my lengths are looking like. And I think that that's going to be just fine. Next section in the back, right to the top of the hairline, right above the ear. Now, we're going to see if any hair reaches, but I am going to continue at the elevation that the comb is showing me. So, I'm going at that elevation. Take a center section. Comb that out. There's very little to cut there. Next section. Only tension that I'm getting is from the comb. I am not introducing any tension by me gripping my fingers as I take that section to the cut point. Now the last section here and nothing is going to reach but I am going to check it just to make sure. And I have nothing really reaching there. Yeah, we're good. So, no problem. If he had hair, I would still continue to go until I ran out of hair. Following the same pattern I did underneath.   Establishing the Length in Front Now, let's come to the side and I'm going to take a natural or center part. And I'm going to go from the first bump of the head right to the hairline directly behind the ear. So from here, I want this length to be about right at the nose. So I'm going to comb this straight down. Whatever tension the comb gives me, that's what I'm going for. And I'm going to cut it right at the tip of the nose. I'm going to this length here. I want this to almost be one length. A little bit longer here is okay, but I don't want to go really angular at the front because I want this hair to get out of the face and show the jawline. If I angle this down, it's going to hide the jawline. So, going straight back gives me the ability to push the hair out of the face, but also reveal that jawline. So, we're going to comb that forward off of that elevation. Angle this back using my guide right at the front. There's my guide. Angle this back. So now I have this slightly increasing in length from my shortest point right at the center of the nose. Take a parallel angle all the way down into the nape. Comb that forward. Find my guide underneath. Not a whole lot to cut, but going off the elevation of the head. Finding my length underneath. Pulling that 90 degrees to my part. and then cutting whatever the angle was underneath. Now, once I reach the back of the ear, now I'm going to pull this still at 90, but I'm going to change my finger angle. So, I had this sort of shape going through here. If I continue that on, I'm going to end up with a hellacious bull cut. It's not going to be cute. So, right at behind the ear, I'm going to change my level, change my angle, go from short to this corner of the hairline, right through here, and blend the two together. So, I'm changing the angle of graduation that I have right there as I transition from the side into the back. Perfect. Now, as I start to brush this back, you can see how I still get this to fill in through here, but I exposed the jawline because I held it down and back and then forward to create my graduation on the sides.   Blending So, now we're going to take parallel section. I'm going to go through and re-wet the hair so I can have a consistent level of moisture throughout. Especially on cutting curly hair, it makes it a lot easier to comb and smooth by using some Jatai Blade Glide. Even though I'm not using a razor, this will still help me get a cleaner cut because it compacts the cuticle, makes it easier to comb. Coming in right here, finding my level. Nothing to cut right there in the middle. That's good. Still 90. Find my level. Nothing to cut there. That's good. Here. Very little to cut right there. Now here. Finding the right elevation and then continuing that angle down into the nape.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Take the rest of this side. I doubt there's going to be a whole lot of hair that reaches. Oh, we might have a little something right there. Very little reaches there. Find the correct angle of elevation. Right through there is perfect. There we go. So, we have graduation this way. We have graduation that way. I have graduation going this way.   Beveling and Layering in Vertical Sections All right. So, let's start with a center mohawk section from the front all the way into the nape. Since I don't want to layer the top a lot, I'm going to take these first two flat sections. Hold that up just to get an idea of where my length is. And I've got my length right about there. We're going to take that. See how that progresses. Okay, I think that's pretty good. We're not taking a whole lot of length off. I just want to bevel this shape a little bit. Take a section. There's my guide. Cut that back. Take a small piece as my guide. And continue that all the way down into the nape. Continuing to pull everything at 90°. from the head until I run out of hair. I'm going to take from the high point of the head, comb that hair forward. So, I have the high point of my head right here. From there, I'm going to pivot to the corner of the hairline. So, I had my center section. Now, I'm taking a pivot to the corner. And I'm going to follow the center guide all the way down and continue my layering as I round the head. Small piece as my guide. Hold these two sections into the center of each section. Cut that through. If there's nothing to cut, there's nothing to cut. If there's something to cut, I cut it. But you got to figure I've cut this already when I cut the side. So if there's nothing hanging out and hanging over it, this is just to make sure everything blends through. Now I will remove my center section. This was the first section that I created. We're going to get that hidden out of the way.   Beveling and Layering in Horizontal Sections And now I will pivot again right behind the ear to the mastoid. And I'm going off the bones of the head so that I can match this perfectly on the other side. So now I'll take my second and third section. Hold that straight up. Take my next piece. There's my guide. Cut that through. Remove the old section. Both of those two together, very little if anything to cut because I've already cut this when I cut it with the sides. So, we make sure everything blends there. I will remove the second section that I took. So, I had the center, now this second section, now I have the third section. And from here on the top of the head, I'm no longer going to pivot. I'm gonna take a parallel section straight down to the quarter part, which is right there, that peak above the ear. So now I have my guide from the top and from the back. Pull that up. Very little comes off through there. Everything gets cut 90 degrees. Follow that all the way through and down. I will remove the third section. Remove the third. Now I'll take the rest of this entire section. Comb it into the previously cut section. There should be very little if any to cut. Just a little bit right there. All good. After I've cut this side here, I'm going to go back, take my original center section that was the guide that I used for this side. Find that again. Pin out of the way. And do the exact same thing on the other side.   Timothee Chalamet Haircut Final Look Alright, here's our end result of the Timothee Chalamet hair cut. And I think the shape works really, really well. He's worn this type of shape in varying lengths where a little longer, a little shorter, a little shorter in the back, a little longer in the front, but it's always this sort of shape where it's angled back in almost a bobbish type of shape and then angled and graduated really steeply from the ear down in the back. And that gives you the ability to open up the the jaw cuz he has a really I mean a Hollywood perfect jawline. So you want to expose that. So, you're trying to get the hair out of the face, but you don't want to cut everything too short. And I think that this works well. Graduation underneath, little bit of layering on top. Works well on all types of hair, but with Timothée Chalamet curly hair, it looks magical. Magical. So, please add this to your repertoire. It will work wonders on your male clientele and expand your booking abilities. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Please let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching this Timothee Chalamet hairstyle tutorial. We will see you next time.
How to Cut the Bangs 4 Ways - Birkin, Side Swept, Micro and Butterfly

Tutorial

How to Cut the Bangs 4 Ways: Birkin, Side Swept, Micro and Butterfly

Let’s learn how to cut the bangs in four different popular ways, specifically Birkin, side swept, micro and butterfly curtain bangs. Whether it's building in completely new bangs or doing a trim of already existing fringe, these techniques work! Cut bangs with ease by watch this YouTube video and learning step-by-step how to cut the bangs and follow along with the transcript below.   How to Cut the Bangs 4 Ways: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be sharing with you the four most popular bang styles there are: Birkin bangs, side swept bangs, micro bangs, and some butterfly curtain bangs. Now, I'm going to show you how to section it properly, how to make sure it fits the head right, how to get the right texture, and not cut it too short. So, let's get started.   Birkin Bangs We're going to start off with the Birkin Bang. The Birkin Bang is known after Jane Birkin from the, her 70s effortlessly glamorous bangs. And they were shorter in the middle and they gradually got longer towards the sides, maybe as long as the cheekbone, maybe a little bit less. But it was always this kind of just below the brow, a little longer towards the edges. It was beveled, but it was still heavy in its solidity, but the ends were really, really soft. So, we're going to start with my Feather Plier Razor. Now, this is a guardless razor, so there's no guard. It gives me the most control and the cleanest cut over my cut line so I can keep it really solid, but yet really wispy and soft just on the edges if I want. That's what we're going to do. So, we've taken a center part or a natural part from that first little bump of the head where the head starts to curve forward. We're going to take that to the center of the recession on both sides. So, this is going to split off all the hair that has the ability and tendency to fall in the eyes, to fall in the face. If this hair tends to be a little thick, which this one is, I'm going to split that in half. Come on, baby. Here we go. Split that in half. And that way less hair I can control. More hair sometimes becomes a little harder to control. Alright. So we're going to section out right here in the front. Now I'm going to take a section that's going to be from the inner eyebrow to the inner eyebrow. This is going to be my focal point for these bangs. And wherever it's the shortest, that's the focal point. That's where your eye goes to first. It's going to be this little short piece in the middle. Then it's going to gradually get longer towards the edges. But I want to focus the attention right in the center of the face.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Take this little section here. Comb down. I want this to hit just a little below the crux of the nose. So I know that that's going to shrink up a little bit when it dries. So we're going to go a little longer than that. And I think right there is probably pretty good. And I'm going to take a nice short even razor stroke to cut my length. My left hand is holding that hair as tight as a vice. Get that cutting through. If anything kind of sneaked out there, just cut that off. There's a little piece there. Come here. There we go. Now, from here, I want to see where it's going to fall on the cheekbones. So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to comb the whole section out and forward. And then I'm going to visualize where I want this to fall on the cheekbone. And then I'm going to cut that straight across. So, we're going to go somewhere about there. A little bit past the tip of the nose just to be safe. If we need to, I can cut more of that off. I cut everything straight across. Now, the reason I'll go through and bi-level this is so that I have a guide here that I know that's going to match on each side. If I feel that that's too long, I can take that a little shorter, but I think that's going to be a good length there. Then I'm going to bevel this through to this corner right here. So, I have a guide for my cut to and my cut from. So, we're going to comb this straight down. There's my guide I'm cutting to. I'm gonna hold that down and then angle the blade to where I'm going from short to long. Come here, baby. And I want to hold this straight down as I'm cutting because I want these to be heavy, but I still want them to be soft. So, by holding it straight down, angling my fingers at the guide that I want to cut and then going through and cutting that, the same type of razor stroke I was cutting before and the center cutting that down and through to my guide on each side. There we go. I think we need to change this a little bit right through there. Now, we're going to take and comb this next section down. Now, here to keep this from building up too much length, I'm going to introduce a longer razor stroke motion so I can soften that thickness. There's my length. A longer stroke ending at the same spot right through there. A longer, broader razor stroke to get me a little bit more softness through there. Alright, now we got our basic shape in. We're going shorter in the middle. Gradually beveling that out into a longer side piece. So, let's blow it dry. See what we got. Okay, here's our end results of our Birkin bangs. Um, I think the shape's pretty good. Thicker hair sometimes gets a little broomy, so you have to texturize it a little bit more. The key points to this to remember is that you want to go a little longer with the angle than you think you need. Use a razor, make it soft. Now, let's move on to the next.   Side Swept Bangs So now we're going to do some side swipe, side swipe, side swept bangs. Yeah, we're going to sweep some bangs to the side. So whenever you're going to do that, that means the parting is going to be extreme on one side. Usually the center of the recession or if it goes lower, it looks a little funky, but usually around the center of the recession straight back. That's going to be our part. We're going to do the same methodology where the head starts to curve forward. That's where we're taking our parting from going to the center of the recession. So now we have a bang on one side. You could technically take this little sliver of bang right here on the right side. But if I take that always if I cut that, it always seems to hang out and look funky and never blend in. So we're going to take a straight up and down section here. So, we're going to take this section, comb all the way over T to my part, cut about here, cut parallel to my parting. So, that automatically starts to introduce an extreme amount of movement into this section over to the other side. We're going to take a parallel section, comb that over. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Take the last of the section. Pulling that over. Anything that hangs over my guide length there, we're going to cut off. Now, you'll see when I comb this down, I start to end up with this really extreme angle of about a 45°. Alright. And here is our side swept bangs. And I think this looks pretty neat. I like it. It's a little Judy Jetson-y. I think if we just had this kind of flip out a little bit, you'd look like Judy Jetson.   Micro Bangs Alright. So now let's move on to the next one. Alright. So we're going to do micro bangs. Now micro bangs, probably the hardest and the thing that you have to be the most patient with. We're going to take our same type of sectioning from the first bump of the head to the center of the recession. Now we're gonna take all this hair. I'm going to evenly wet it. And I want to make sure that when I'm going to cut this section, I'm using as little tension as possible. So, I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a long, skinny, thin blade with a nice point. It enables me to get in there and really precisely point cut exactly where I want, and it doesn't push the hair too much. So, let's get started. We're going to comb everything straight down. Pick up with the comb. Find out where I want to cut it. And then I'm going to cut that straight across. If the hair is too thick, then take this into two sections. If it's too thin, then a thicker section makes it easier to see your cut line. So, you'll get that choice by experience. So, comb everything down. Now, as soon as I comb that down, I instantly see it start to kind of spring up. That's okay. I know it's going to spring up. So, when I'm expecting it, I leave it a little longer than I think it should be so that it springs up. And then I can clean the spring up. So, I'm going to comb that straight down. No tension at all. Go through with my Tokyo Scissors and cut that straight across. I'm going to point cut this so I have a little bit of softness to it, and it makes it a little bit easier to go through and cut. If I wanted to cut this straight across, like, you know, Mr. Spock bangs, then I'm going to take much, much smaller sections and point cut it first and then go through and clean up my line. I'm not going to try to cut my clean line right from the beginning. I'll point cut it and then cut it. It makes it far easier to get a nice precise clean line doing it that way as opposed to trying to push the hair into shape. Comb that straight down. There's my guide in the middle.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. And here I'm just trying to be as patient as I can be and be as diligent with my cutting as possible. The more patient I am, the more I continue to fine-tune these sections, the better that my end result will be. And again, I'm not trying to get this perfect on the first pass while it's wet. I'm going to get it as close as I can, as close as I feel is necessary. And then I'll go through it after I dry it. Clean it up even more. I'm beginning to get a little neurotic now. I think it's time to move onto the next phase, drying it, and then we'll fine-tune it some more. Now, we've got everything dry, and it's not nearly as clean as I expected. So, now let's just go through and start cleaning it up little bit by little bit by little bit until we get that nice micro bang that has this perfect amount of texture that we want and looks good straight across and is as effortless to style as possible. And here's our micro bangs. I think patience with your bangs. Here we got some hanging over. We got this just mess of hair which I actually kind of like. And I think that the micro bangs really fit with this shape quite a bit. So, please be patient. You'll get there. Takes time.   Butterfly Curtain Bangs So, now let's go through and do some butterfly bangs. Butterfly bangs are a lot like the Birkin bang in its shape where it's shorter in the middle and it gets longer as it goes towards the sides, but it's application is a lot different because you're going to start over-directing and introducing a lot of movement to it. So, to learn how to cut curtain bangs we're going to start with a very, very small center section. Razor thin, wafer thin center section. Hold that forward and cut that somewhere above the eyebrows very gently, taking a pretty long broad stroke. Cutting that length off through there. Taking my time. Making sure I get the thickness proper and getting those ends very, very texturized and then looking and seeing how that starts to separate there in the front. If I feel that that's short enough, then I'll go with that. If I feel like I need to make it shorter, now is the time to do that. So, now let's go through take a parallel section. Start to hold everything over to the left. There's my guide from underneath. and then gently follow that guide as I cut down. I'll take the next section. Well, we'll just go ahead and take the whole thing. Hold that over at an angle which is parallel to my angle parting here. There's my line underneath. Cut that all the way across. Making sure you keep hair on this side of the section pinned out of the way so I don't pick that up and create a hair disaster for myself. Come on now. There we go. So now when we see we got this shorter in the middle gradually getting longer towards the sides, but since we have that movement that's introduced to it from pulling it to the left, it gets much lighter and airier as it goes over where the Birkin bang ended up hanging with that solidity. This lightens the whole thing up. Let's blow it dry and see what we got. All right, here's our butterfly bangs. You got nice and short, sassy in the middle, building up to a lot of length real quick on the edges here. A lot of texture through it. So, it has a tremendous amount of movement and airiness to it. And I think because it has that airiness and texture to it, that's what gives it the effect. She looks pretty good. I like this one. I like this one. So, there we go.   How to Cut the Bangs Takeaway The four most popular bang styles that you can get today. The key point to this is to just be patient. Make sure that you get the partings right. Make sure that the bangs fit the head right for the style that you're doing. And be patient with this with the length selection. You don't want to cut it too short. Go a little longer if you're worried. And then you can always take it a little shorter. So cut a piece, see how it fits, add more to it as you see fit. Whether you want to learn how to cut the bangs for short hair or how to cut the bangs for long hair, the techniques are the same. These techniques are meant to be done by a professional hairstylist.  Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And I will see you next time. Thank you so much.  
K-Pop Mens Wolf Cut Hair Tutorial Using a Razor

Tutorial

K-Pop Mens Wolf Cut Hair Tutorial Using a Razor

With all the different cut hairstyles that exist for women, some of them cross over to men's styles. The wolf haircut features longer hair with lots of texture. With feathered ends and a K-pop influence, we get a trendy look that modern men are attracted to. In this mens wolf cut hair tutorial, Russell teaches how to create this look with a razor. Follow along with the video and transcript below. Mens Wolf Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a wolf cut for a man. We're going to do a K-pop inspired wolf cut today, which means it's going to have a lot of texture to it, and it's going to build up a lot of weight in the crown and in the back of the head. So, it still looks longer and fuller, but has a tremendous amount of texture, and the base of it near the nape of the head doesn't get too bulky. We're going to show you how to apply the texture with the Feather Plier Razor and get the perfect amount of texture that looks intentional. So, let's get started. So, I'm going to start with my Feather Plier Razor. Now, I like this razor because it doesn't have a guard and it gives me the most precision and control over my cut line and exactly where and how much texture I can apply. With the sharp bare edge, we can get clean precise cuts.   Channel Cutting the Length So, I'll start in the nape here. I'm going to hold everything straight down at zero elevation and I'll go through and channel a section and then cut my length at the same time. So I will go in deep, try to cut a pretty good little pointed jag into it and then cut the length off. So I don't move my left hand at all when I'm cutting this. That way I can be assured of a fairly straight line. But because I'm going through and putting the texture in at the same time, this will save me a lot of time of having to go back in after I've already cut my perimeter shape and go back in and texture it. It does everything in one step. Now, I find that if I'm doing a very highly textured shape like we're doing today with this wolf cut, I will not go through and cut everything blunt with a pair of scissors and then go back in and try to create texture. Once I cut a blunt line into it, it's very, very difficult to go through and get the amount of texture that I really need to make this haircut pop. So, I basically end up going through and over texturizing the blunt line to try to get my separation and pieciness. Whereas, if I just go through like this, add my texture and the cut with the razor at one time, it's easier, it's less effort, and I can actually get a better, piecier result. So, here I'm moving up to my next section, holding everything straight down at zero elevation again, finding my guide from underneath, and going through and channeling and cutting it the same. And I'll go through and repeat this whole methodology up the entire back of the head until I get all of my lengths cut. I've gone through and started with a basic sectioning where I've sectioned down the center front half from the back half and then from just above the occipital bone to above the mastoid right behind the ears.   If you like this video, give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Cutting Anti-Head Shape So, after I've gone through with my basic sectioning, I'll start at the nape, get my baseline, and work that all the way up until I have the whole back half of the head finished. Now, I'm going to go through and take a center section, hold everything straight back, everything just pulled straight back through here. And then I'm going to cut a straight up and down line. I'm going to go through, determine what length I want my shortest layer to be, hold that straight back, and cut a straight up and down line. So, what this will do is this is actually cutting it anti-head shape. Head shape would be the same length from top to bottom. So anti-head shape is leaving it longer at the top and then shorter in the middle and then longer at the bottom. So this will give me a little bit of graduation that you see right there in the back. Right there how that starts to curve and give me that graduation pop. So I get that fullness from my graduation, but then it allows the hair underneath it to collapse and not get bulky. Now I'm going to walk my guide over to the left. So, I'll take my center section, add a horizontal section on the left side, pull everything into the center of both of those sections, and then follow my guide, cutting straight up and down again. But, as I was talking before about collapsing the nape, by pulling everything at the anti- head shape like this, it will elevate the hair underneath and allow it to collapse. So I don't get that very overly bulky hair right at the nape. It ends up being bulky or fuller right around the back of the head in the center like around the occipital bone. So I get that fullness and it still feels like I got some hair but it doesn't get that mud flap kind of look that you see a lot of those rednecked mullets have. So now we're going to go through and finish our next section. So, we've got section two and section three. I took out my center section. Now, I'm walking my guide over, and I'm continuing to pull everything straight back, you know, parallel to my previous section. Straight back. There's my guide underneath. And we're just going to go through and cut this. Now, the thing is, when you're cutting with a guardless razor, I need to be respectful of the blade. I can touch myself and it won't cut me. It's when that blade touches me and then moves left or right, that's when I start to really cut myself. But I still want to be respectful of this because these blades are very, very sharp, which makes it easy to go through and cut. But it's too easy to go through and cut myself if I get sloppy with it. There is no other tool on the market that will give you this type of look and this type of texture and result. So, I have to learn to respect the tool and then I can use it and get its maximum potential. Last section here. Pulling everything straight back. Making sure all of it blends through with my layering. And I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. That's looking pretty good. Now, here's the entire back finished. I have a nice amount of layer through the back. I get a little buildup of weight right there around the occipital bone, and then everything else under it collapses and flips. And that's the look I'm going for is this kind of flippy piecey kind of wolfy type of shape.   Cutting the Front for Movement So now we're going to section off high on the recession on the side of the head. I'm going to take an angle diagonally back that's going to be parallel to my hairlines. I'm going to pull this forward and then cut it back. So the line is actually kind of straight horizontal, but by me pulling it forward, that's actually going to introduce movement and force this hair to flow back. And you can see right there how it starts to make that hair swing back. So by pulling it forward, I cut the front slightly shorter than I cut the back. And by putting my angle into it, it ends up being a much more horizontal line, but I introduce all of that movement into it. Now, I'm not trying to insert my texture and cut the length here at the same time. I just want to focus on cutting my length and cutting the shape because it's going to be hard to go through on this type of methodology and insert texture and cut the length at the same time. It's easier to do horizontal when I start angling things like this. I want to do it in two steps. So, I'm pulling everything forward, cutting it about right to the tip of the nose, and then angling that back. Once I finish all of this here and I get everything cut to the length that I think I want, then I'll go through and start taking a section in the back of the head and angling that down into the nape.   Blending the Front with the Back So, I'll section off the top and the back here. And then angle. This angle here is going to be parallel to the first section that I took, which is going to be parallel to my hairline right there behind the ear. Now, we're going to pull this straight out from the head at 90° using the length that I established by pulling everything forward. Then, I will go through and cut that straight up and down and blend that into the length in the nape of the hair. So right there, just pulling everything out. I don't have as much hair to cut here because I've already cut the length and I've already cut my layering. This is to make sure that the sides and the back blend together. We'll check that. See how that's looking? I like that. That's pretty good. So now I'm going to continue on doing this same type of sectioning all the way to the center of the back of the head. So continuing parallel sections to my previous section and then holding it straight out to the side of the head. So I'm basically cutting a big box type of shape where it's got a corner right there behind the ear. It's got a corner on the other side and it's got a corner right in the crown. Oh, we missed that little part right there. But there's not much to cut so we'll leave it. Now we're going to get to the center. Pulling everything over. Making sure nothing really hangs over. This is just making sure that everything kind of blends through. Not a whole lot to take through here. So, being very careful, very judicious with my cut and just making sure everything blends through. Now, in the beginning when I went through and took my middle part and then I sectioned off the front of the head from the back of the head and then the nape section out. So this is my quarter part back blending. That's a mouthful right there. So what I'm doing is the section that I cut underneath vertically at the ear to make sure everything blended from the sides down into the nape. Now I'm taking the back half of the head on top and making sure that that blends through with the hair that I've cut underneath. I don't want any hair from the top hanging over and being disconnected from the hair underneath. I want this all to blend through perfectly. We got all that blended through there.   Layering from Back to Front Now, we're going to go through and take a center section. This is a mohawk section from the front all the way to the back. Right there at the crown, I'm going to use that length as the guide for my layering. I'll pull this straight up. Cut this 90° from the head. And working from back to front. And I want to just cut this all the same length going from back to front. When I'm doing this type of layering with a Plier Razor, I have to be mindful of my sectioning. And one way that I can go through and apply this cut line cleanly without being worried that I'm going to cut myself is I have to make sure the hair that's holding the hand is gripping it for life. I mean, it's got a death grip on that section so it doesn't fall out. And then when I apply the razor to this section, gently applying it using the razor motion of up and down to cut, I can go through and cut nice and clean lines without worrying about cutting myself. After I cut the center section, I'm going to take my next parallel section, working to the side, hold those two sections up into the middle. There's my guide from underneath. There we go. There we go. Perfect. And then I'll go through and blend everything through. Anything that hangs over past my guide, I'll cut up. I got a death grip on my section there. This takes a little bit of practice. I would really recommend that before you start layering hair with a razor like this that you take a mannequin head, you practice, you get comfortable with it, and you do it very methodically and very slowly. Don't try to move fast. Moving fast is the enemy of cutting clean sections and clean hair. there My last section. Everything blending through onto the right side of the head. Anything that hangs over from the top, I'll go through and just cut off. Methodically working that through. There we go. Very little to cut there. I think I got a little bit. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Razored Bangs After I finish everything on the right side, I'll do the left side. And now we're going to section off the hair around the front. I'm going to pull the center of that right down to the tip of the nose. And I'm going to go through and razor that length off. That's the length I want my fringe to be. So I'm pulling that straight forward. Cutting that the length I want. Now we're going to split that in half. I'll take the entire right side of the head through here. There's my length that I cut at the sides and I'll blend that through with the little short piece that I cut right there at the front center of the face. Work that all the way through. Blend that all the way through. There we go. Perfect. Just like that. Now, going a little shorter in the middle is going to leave it a little longer towards the side. Wherever hair is shorter, it will move to where hair is longer. There's my length right through there. There's my guide. There it is. Right there. Now, we're going to cut that through. So, shorter hair always flows to longer hair. So if I want to create movement, cut one side shorter and the other side longer. And also because of the razor motion through here, because I'm razoring it from the center to the sides, that will introduce movement as well. Now in the back, I applied texture and length at the same time. Around the front, I couldn't do that. So now we're going to go through and add our texture and thinning around the front. These mannequin heads can get a little thick and sometimes your client's hair is very very thick and you need to go through and add more texture than you think that it needs. There are other times where the hair is a little bit finer where you don't add as much texture. So, you have to use your own discernment to apply the amount of texture that the section needs. Every person's head is going to be different. Every hair texture is going to be different. And this is something that will come with experience of you practicing.   Adding More Seamless Texture Now, we're going to go through and just start applying a little bit of texture all the way around the front half of the head because we've already applied it in the back and we won't need that there. I will go through and check it to make sure, but we want the same type of texture throughout the entirety of the haircut. Going through and just methodically applying a little bit of texture here or there or wherever it needs it. There we go. Perfect. Now, as I start to move in the back here, you can see it's already got pretty pretty good amount of texture. So, I don't need a whole lot through there. Maybe a little maybe not. Yeah, right there. That's looking good. Now, we're just going to go through and do this same type of texturizing throughout the rest of the head, throughout the front of the head (not the back, because we already did that) until everything matches and it blends seamlessly, not only from a length point of view, but also from a texture point of view. I did go through and change the blade about halfway through this haircut. Some types of hair dull blades faster than others, and it usually tends to be the thicker, coarser types of hair that will dull the blade faster. So, I don't want to go through and start pushing hair and not end up with a clean line. So, if I need to change a blade, I'll change a blade. I know some stylists that will use the same blade for years. And I'm telling you, your haircuts are going to suffer from it.   Final Mens Wolf Haircut Look Here's our end result. And I think it's looking pretty nice. I'm checking everything to make sure our texture is good. And there we go. This is our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. Got a lot of great texture to it. And I think by pulling it straight out in the back, it gives it this nice fullness in the back, but we can still have it hyper layered underneath. It doesn't need much styling if the hair is cut right. Razor cut haircuts can do just that. So, we got a lot of texture to it and a lot of separation. And I don't know how these guys wear this hair in their face like that, but they do. That's the style. And this is very reminiscent of what you would see in in K-pop right now over in Korea with a lot of the really hyper trendy guys. And I think that it adds something. It adds some softness with having long hair, but it still keeps its style without being super messy. And this works really well on wavy hair or loose curl hair. I probably wouldn't do this on the curliest of hair. And I think that this would work really well on finer textures of hair, maybe not as much texture as we've done here. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. You have a question or comment, please leave it below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  
Short Hair Cut Fine Hair Techniques You Should Know for Added Volume

Tutorial

Short Hair Cut Fine Hair Techniques You Should Know for Added Volume

In this short hair cut fine hair video tutorial, you'll learn how to address fine hair and make it look thicker. While the end result is a short haircut with soft layers this is more of a technical deep dive into techniques for cutting fine hair, not necessarily thin hair. These techniques can apply to a short bob, short hairstyles and even longer hairstyles. Short haircuts are better suited for fine hair and especially thinning hair as the hair is not weighed down as much. When you create the right structure for the haircut, it puts less reliance on styling to make hair more voluminous.  Watch this short hair cut fine hair techniques tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Hair Cut Fine Hair Techniques Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to show you three essential techniques when you're cutting fine hair and fine textured hair. I'm going to show you number one, how to maximize the bluntness of your bob. I'm going to show you the optimal type of graduation you can get so you get the most stack and the most volume with the most solid shape on fine hair. We're going to show you the optimal way to layer hair to get the most even amount of fullness all over the whole head. Without further ado, let's get started.   Technique 1: Cutting Everything Blunt Alright, so trying to make fine hair appear thicker. The first technique we're going to cover is cutting everything completely blunt. When I cut a section completely blunt in one length, like a little bob, it makes finer hair look the thickest that it can. A lot of times I will see people comb the section down, turn their fingers up, go through and cut everything like this. Now, what I'm actually doing when I flip my fingers up, I'm cutting the top of the section shorter than the underneath of the section. So that hair on top is not going to end at the same spot. It's going to be a little shorter. There's also the inverse of that. If I have someone with a lot of cowlicks and I'm trying to encourage it to cup under, then I will take this section. I will comb it down and then I'll roll my fingers under, pick it up, cut that. Now, what I'm actually doing is cutting the underneath slightly shorter than the top. By doing that, it encourages the hair to cup under. But in order to make this as thick as possible, I need to pay attention to the pitch of my scissor blade. And I am using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. It's got a nice long blade with a good pointy, with a pointy tip that's not going to poke me when I go through and cut. It's not that pointy, not that tight, but it is very clean and very sharp. And this is probably my most used scissor from Jatai. Going through, I'm going to comb this section straight down, comb everything clean and leave my fingers perpendicular to the head. I'm not flipping it up. I'm not cupping it under. I'm keeping it perpendicular to the section of hair I'm cutting. So now when I go through and cut, I want to make sure that my scissor angle is perpendicular to the hair that I'm cutting as well. I'm not flipping it up and I'm not flipping it under. I want to keep everything really clean and perpendicular so that when I let that go, all of that hair ends at the same point. On a mannequin head, I'm going to comb this down with my scissors and my comb, and I will cut that straight across. What are you doing in there hiding? Get out of there. I got a little piece hiding there. There we go. Scissors are perpendicular to the section so that when I comb that down and cut that, everything is ending at the same spot. So now I go on to the next section. Comb everything clean from the parting all the way down. Everything perpendicular to the hair. Thick hair, I probably will never do this because I want things to shift under or shift up or not be quite so blunt because if I did this type of technique on someone with really really thick hair, it would end up looking like a broom. But on finer hair, this is the optimal way to cut one length.   Technique 2: Creating Finger Length Graduation Second idea is if they don't want something blunt and they want something a little fuller, we're going to minimize the bluntness by stacking it with some graduation just like I did before. And I'm going to use the same kind of methodology I was doing when I was cutting everything one length. Comb everything down into my fingers. Roll my finger. Cut everything as perpendicular to the hair as possible to get rid of any kind of graduation. We're going to comb that down. Cut that without changing the pitch of my scissor. I want my scissor perpendicular to the hair. So, if the hair is here, I want my scissor right there. I don't want to cut any angles on that. Cut that straight across. Everything's cut nice and blunt. Now we're going to go through take about 3/4 of an inch, maybe a finger width. The next section I will use the guide from underneath, but instead of just one finger, I'm going to put two fingers in. This is going to give me another finger length of elevation. There's my guide from underneath. Still cutting blunt and perpendicular to the head. Combing this straight down. I got two fingers in there. Now there's my guide from underneath. Cut that perpendicular to the hair. Comb this one down again. Two fingers. There's my guide. Cut that straight across perpendicular to the head. Now, you're going to start to see a little bit of graduation popping up in my sections because I've elevated it one more finger angle. So, guess what we're going to do now? We're going to go one more finger length as I go up. Now, I did the first one at a one finger, the second one at a two-finger. Now, I'm going to do a three-finger elevation. So, I'll go through, take my section from underneath. I've got three fingers. I'm elevating. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Come through here. Three fingers underneath. There's my line. Cut that through. I want to make sure that I'm not changing my finger angle or the angle of my scissor. Same thing I was doing before. There's my guide. Three fingers. Boom. So now you start to see a nice beveling of our line. So it's giving it a low angle of graduation which is going to stack perfectly on fine hair to give it that fuller type of graduated shape without over graduating it to where it just becomes a bubble shape. This will still maintain a nice angle of graduation and still maintain a bob shape. It won't bevel it out like a little bubble.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Now we should be above the occipital bone. We got three sections below the occipital. Now we got our first section above the occipital. So now I'm going to lay my comb right there at the parting. That's going to show me the angle of elevation that I have. Where's my guide? There's my guide. right there. Cut everything perpendicular to my section. I missed two hairs there. Now, we're going to go through. Same thing here. There's my line underneath. Cut that through. Cut that through. Perfect type of graduation. It's a low graduation which gives me really the most amount of volume in a graduated shape and it works excellently on fine hair. If I want to maintain my one length shape, everything else gets pulled to the exact same elevation that this was pulled. So now everything pulls to here and I can continue my bob shape around. Now I know what you're saying. At this point you're saying, "Well, my client doesn't want a bob. She doesn't want graduation. She wants a bubble. She wants everything to be full layered with as much volume as possible." Okay. Well, we can do that.   Technique 3: Use the Correct Elevation The thing you have to watch out for, which brings me to technique number three, is that whenever you lay your hair, every section that you take has to be held at the same elevation. The minute that hair starts getting over-directed to one area versus another, you start pulling hair out. What it does is it introduces length. It introduces shorter where you're pulling it to and longer where you're moving it from. And so because you're having that increase of length, it diminishes the amount of volume and a fullness that you can have. So I want everything to be layered exactly 90 degrees from the head. And that looks like this. Alright. So I got my center section. I'm going to take the comb and lay it against the head. And where it's flat, that determines the size of my section. Because if I take for instance these two sections, this is 90°. This is 90°. So if I hold them in the middle, this one's being under-elevated. This one's being over-elevated. So I want to make sure everything is the exact same elevation. So I have the exact same amount of weight and I can keep everything as full as possible. So, I'll pull my first little flat section out. Determine what length that I want. Cut that blunt across. I'll take a small piece as my guide. Now, I take my next flat section. I hold it to 90. There's my guide from the front. I cut that all exactly the same length as the head. Take a small piece as my guide. Now I will take my next section where it's flat. Comb that straight up 90 degrees from the head. There's my guide from the front. I'll go through and cut that blunt. I want to make sure that this is not only cut blunt like it was when I was doing my one length bob. And I'm not curving and making one side of this longer or shorter. I also want to keep it the same from front to back. Everything, pitch of the scissor is the same. Everything is blunt and as smooth and as even as possible. By going through and cutting everything as even as possible, that gives me the maximum amount of volume with the maximum amount of density per layered section. From here, I'll take a parallel section to the first section. So, now I'm going to take my original guide and use that as the guide. I'm going to take my next section, hold it into the center of both of those two sections. Comb this straight up and out. There's my guide. I'm going to cut this perfectly blunt and across. Watching the pitch of my blade. Watching the pitch of how I comb the section. I want everything as blunt as possible. Small piece as my guide. There's my next section. Comb to the center of both of those two sections. Cut that straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Next section. And follow that all the way down and through until I run out of hair. Now I'm going to take my third section on this side. We're going to take the third section where it's flat. Follow my previous guide. Take this as parallel to that original guide as I possibly can. Now I'm going to comb section two and section three to the center of both of those two sections. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that blunt across. Take a small piece as my guide. My next little flat section into the middle of both of those two sections. Small piece as my guide. And continue this all the way until I run out of hair. And until I run out of sections on this side. Then go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side.   Final Results I just realized I styled your hair like Axel Rose's mom. Alright, here's our end result. And I think this really, though this style is very kind of generic. It's just basically round layers with a blunt little nape because of the graduation that we put in it. This was really an exercise in showing you three key techniques to make finer hair fuller and thicker looking. So, her hair is not as thick as some of the other mannequin heads, but the technique shows you how to do it. You can get a nice even full layering. This is without me round brushing, me just shaking my hands through it. And then we got this nice kind of stacked fullness in the back that if we feel like it's too low of a graduation, it's very easy to change and just go through and change our angle on it. But this gives you the maximum amount of heavy graduation for finer hair to still keep it solid and blunt looking. You got a nice little round layer through there that's evenly distributed and it doesn't add to any sort of collapsing technique by over-directing anything one side to another. Check these techniques out. Please practice them. Add them to your repertoire. They can really add a lot to your technique when it comes to cutting fine hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We will see you next time. Using techniques for cutting fine hair can help you address challenges with fine hair. Whether you're doing a short cut such as a pixie cut, giving regular trims, creating a French bob or simply putting in bangs, your fine hair clients will want these styles to also give volume. Women often have more desire for different styles and want their hairstyle to compliment their face shape. Incorporating these three techniques should help you achieve that.  
Retro Comb Over Mad Men Jon Hamm Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Retro Comb Over Mad Men Jon Hamm Haircut Tutorial

If you've ever watched Mad Men featuring Jon Hamm as Don Draper, you would know he had an iconic hairstyle that reflected the haircuts of the time period. He had a classic men haircut that was short and clean cut with a side part. Classic hairstyles will always be popular and so in this tutorial we focus on his haircut from the show. It's a versatile cut that works with any face shape and uses minimal products (if any). Follow along with the video and transcript below.  Jon Hamm Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on a masculine comb over. Now, most of the comb overs that you see today are going to be really tight skin fades with the top longer, parted on one side, really extreme and combed over. We're going to do a more Mad Men style where it's a little bit more conservative, a little bit more retro, but still just as cool. So, let's get started.   Cutting the Sides So, we're going to start here with a side parting. And I'm usually going to separate the top from the bottom around the center of the recession. Since we're going with a kind of comb over look, I'm going to take a little bit higher. So, I'm going to the top of the recession, straight back to the quarter part, down into the nape. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in variety. And I like a long pointy scissor whenever I'm doing shorter type of work like this. So, I'm taking a diagonal section back and I'm cutting it parallel to the parting. I'm going to take a little bit shorter right there at the front. Just a little scissor over comb to get my length nice and clean there in front of the ear. And now I'm going to walk my guide from the first section all the way back. And what I mean by walking my guide is I take the first section as my guide and then I add the second section into the first section. The third section I can remove the first section. So it's just the second and third section. Here I'm working on the third and fourth section. So the guide is moving with each section that I go. And I remove the previously cut guide for that section. So this allows me to cut everything fairly similar in length from the front all the way into the back. And I just have to be methodical about this and take all my sections and partings at about the same width. If I do one section thicker and one section thinner, I'm going to end up with inconsistencies in my length, meaning that it's going to get more length as I go to the back if I take inconsistent section sizes. And it's going to make my layering kind of lumpy. So, here we're going from the top of the parting down into the nape and I'm just following the same parting size or section that I took from the very front. It's the same angle. That angle right around the front of the hairline is the same angle right behind the ear. So, that hairline is very similar. And this allows me to keep everything very symmetrical and nice and smooth and also be able to match it on the opposite side. I'll work all the way back into the middle section and cross over just a little bit right here onto the left side from the right side. So then after I finish this section, I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side. Now, it's important that I take sections very, very similar on both sides so that I have a symmetry in my parting and symmetry on the top separating from the bottom. So, here I'm making sure I got everything the same on both sides. And I'll cut the right side exactly the same way that I cut the left side.   Cutting the Back Here, I just want to take it and taper it in a little bit tighter just at the hairline. Now, when I first cut this, I'm trying to cut it as short as I can at the nape, but it's only going to allow me to cut it as short as my fingers are thick. So, here, going back in and doing a little scissor over comb just at the hairline, and then blending that up and out will get it a little bit tighter and cleaner at the hairline. Now, I'm just starting here close at the hairline, cutting it really short, and then blending it up and out. As I get to the top of this section, I'm not really cutting that much hair, but I keep going through the motions so that I can keep my scissor over comb rhythm going. I find that when I have a rhythm doing my scissor over comb, even if I'm not cutting hair, if I just keep going through the rhythm and the motions of it, it will allow me to get a much cleaner result, and I don't have to go through and clean it up so many times.   Fine-Tuning the Sides Now here, just starting out crude and then fine-tuning my shape by more scissor strokes gets me cleaner and cleaner and cleaner. And just being patient as I'm going through and doing this. Right there. Good. Now, we're going to clean it up a little bit over the ears here. That's looking pretty good. I like that.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. Making sure I don't cut his ear. The poor boy there. I can't have that. And that's looking pretty good. Now, I'm not trying to get this super clean. I'm just trying to get a cleanish shape because I can go through and clean it up more when it's dry.   Graduating the Back Now, I'll take a center section just so it shows me where the head shape is and I can separate the front of the head from the back of the head. Now I'm going to go through and take a parallel parting. Like instead of a pie section that most of the time you're taking here in the back, I'm taking more of a candy bar section where it's just parallel. It's not pivoting like a pie triangular shape. It's just parallel. I'll hold that straight back and then follow whatever the line of graduation that I had underneath and I'll follow that same kind of length angle as I go up towards the crown. Once I got that cut and I've got everything blended like I want, I will take a parallel section to the right. So, I have the center part and my first section to the right that are both parallel. I'll hold it into the center of both of those two sections and follow the previously cut guide as I'm cutting from shorter at the occipital bone, longer as I get up towards the crown. Now I'll remove the first section and take my third section right here as I'm walking my guide over from the center. So there we have second and third section. Hold it to the center of both of those two sections. Pulling it straight back and then cutting any length that hangs over my previously cut guide. That's looking pretty good. Now I'll take and remove my second section. So I have my third section as my guide. The next section I'll pull straight back. I'm not rounding it out across the head. I'm just pulling everything straight back to make sure it blends in the back. And that's going to leave me a little bit more length right there as I get closer to the ear. And you'll see it right here. Right there. You can see that little bit of length right there. That's going to allow me a little bit more length as I get into the sides. But we're going to go through and do the other side exactly the same way we did in the back.   Razoring the Right Side and Top Now we're working on the sides. I'll take a parallel section using my Feather Plier Razor. And this is no guard. No guard razor gives me a lot more control and I can get a cleaner cut because I don't have the guard stopping me from getting as clean as I would like to or need to. Here I'm using the guide length that I had at the back of the head and working that into the side. So, I have my parallel section that I took that was parallel to the first section on the side that we took. And I'm combing everything kind of down at a graduated angle using that guide length in the back as I work forward. Now, here I'm trying to determine what's the best length for this side here as I'm working through because I want enough length that it can kind of slick back and provide me with enough to slick back and really give that full look, but I don't want so much length there that it starts to flop forward like an undercut would. So, I'm trying to balance between how much length is right and how much is too much. And I'll cut a little bit and comb it. And cut a little bit and comb it. Once I feel I got that right length, then I'll continue working up towards the center of the head, taking parallel sections. Here's my next parallel section. I have my guide length from underneath that I feel like is the right length. And I'll work that from front to back. Just taking even strokes on my razor so I have a consistent kind of razor stroke and a consistent amount of texture that's going through and thinning the hair and cutting it at the same time. Once we've got everything cut there, I'll continue to work this length all the way up into the center of the head. There we go. That's looking pretty good. I like that length. Now, if I feel that that length on top is becoming too thick, I'll take a broader razor stroke or I can go through and channel cut it a little bit or I can fillet internally a little bit more texture to remove weight. But since this is a fuller type of haircut, it has more weight to it. I'm going to go through and take very little each time so I don't over thin it.   Razoring the Left Side Now, we're going to go through and cut the left side and I'm going to comb everything back and find out where the hair wants to kind of part on its own. And then I'm going to take that parting and I'm going pretty far over. This side I'm going to completely cut different. I'm not looking to comb everything back. A typical comb over is combed over on one side. One side's going to be really short and blended in. This is the side that's going to be blended in. So, instead of taking a horizontal section, I'm taking a vertical section like the first section that I was taking on the side of the head, and I'm combing everything straight out and blending it through into the length that I cut underneath. And I'm just going to take parallel sections as I work all the way back here. You can see the angle of the section that I'm taking. And I'm just going to cut everything straight up and down that same length to make sure it blends together on this side because one side gets combed over and back. The other side just gets combed straight down. This is the side that gets combed straight down. So, I don't want any kind of overhang here. I don't want any kind of undercut on the shorter side. So, I just take my time and go through and blend this through and make sure everything blends perfectly. And I'll take parallel sections as I work all the way into the back of the head. And it's important to keep your sections very very similar in size and also in thickness. Now, if the hair gets a little thick, I may take a thinner section. If it gets a little bit thinner, I may take a larger section. But I want to try to maintain as much consistency as possible.   Follow us on your favorite social media @Jatai Feather   Here we're just continuing the same sectioning all the way back until I run out of hair. That's looking pretty good. Being careful to not go through and get too exaggerated and excited with my razor so I don't cut myself. Perfect. That's looking pretty good, the last section here. And everything's blending through quite well.   Clipper Over Comb Now, we're going to go through and blow everything dry. And just blowing everything dry as neutral as possible on the side. So, if I have anything that sticks out, I can go ahead and fix that. After everything's dry, I'm going to take my clippers and right there at the nape, I want to fit that in a little bit tighter. So, I'm taking my clipper and doing a little clipper over comb. Just getting it real clean and tight right there at the nape. Doing the same kind of methodology I was doing with my scissor over comb. But with the clipper on dry hair, I can see exactly how much hair I want to take off. I can see the exact result as I do it. If I'm doing scissor over comb on wet hair, it's a little bit hidden because the hair is wet and it hides things. But on dry hair, you can see the exact result you get. So, I like to use clippers more on dry hair than I do on wet hair. They cut better on dry hair as well.   Final Look So, here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I think we've got a nice little taper going on without it being a skin fade, which is so typical of this type of haircut. And not everybody can wear a skin fade. Someone's got a funky head, you can't do that on them. So, a little bit longer is good. So, this is a study on how to do it longer and keep the essence of the shape with a little bit more length. And I find that most of my younger clientele that's coming in is over the fade. They don't want it skinned anymore. They want a little bit of hair. So, this is a perfect transition of someone that is growing a fade out. You can still keep it really clean and groomed around the edges, but still start to grow some hair out. So, I think this is not only a great style in and of itself, but also an excellent transition style when you're going from really short to really long. And I think this looks pretty good. Please check out the Jatai Academy or our shop. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Leave us a comment below if you have a question. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  
Shirley Partridge Modern Pixie Mullet Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Shirley Partridge Modern Pixie Mullet Hair Tutorial

Shirley Partridge of the Partridge family in the 1970s rocked a modern pixie mullet style. Who knew it could come full circle and make it's way back into a more modern edgy hairstyle? Using scissors and a razor, this short hair pixie cut has layers and hair texture and a fun look. Mixie haircuts have become popular in modern times. Watch this short modern pixie mullet tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Shirley Partridge Modern Pixie Mullet Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a modern version of the Shirley Partridge from the Partridge family. She had this really cool pixie kind of cut and I think that's where the little pixie wolf bang came from was from her. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut. But she also had a little modern a little rock and roll version of it with it being a little longer in the back, a little mullety in the back. So, we're going to show you how to do a pixie cut mullet on our mannequin head here. It's very cool, very iconic, something you might see walking around the streets of Silver Lake. Silver Lake, if you don't know, is the coolest part of LA. It's where all the cool people are. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut and make all your clients super cool. So, let's get started.   Point Cut Mohawk Sections So, let's just jump right on in here. I'm going to take a mohawk section and I'm going to hold each section at 90° straight out from the head and I'm going to point cut that across. Take a small piece as my guide and move on back and just cut my entire mohawk section the same-ish length all the way from front to back. And I'm determining my length by where it falls on the face. I want it to fall a little bit above the tip of the nose, but not quite up to the eyebrow. You can obviously take this shorter, you know, or longer depending upon your client and their thickness and density of their hair. And I think that Shirley wore her hair quite a bit shorter than I'm cutting it. But since I'm trying to modernize it, I'm going to leave myself a little bit more length to get a little bit more movement to it so it has a little bit more versatility in the styling of it. So, we're just continuing that straight back. I'll take a small piece as my guide from the previously cut section. Hold everything out at 90ish° and just go through and cut everything the head shape all the way down to the occipital bone which is that bump right in the middle of the back of the head. Now, once I hit the mastoid, I'm going to go anti- head shape. So, instead of going all the way in, I'm going all the way down and out. And you can see how that's not following the curvature of the head right through there. That's going to leave me a little bit more length at the very perimeter of the back, which is going to start to build up my kind of mullety shape. And also, when I go inverted like that, it helps the hair collapse a little bit more. The more of the head shape that it is, the more volume you get, the more anti- head shape, the less volume and the more the shape collapses. Now I'm going to take a parallel section to my first section and I'm going to hold those two pieces of hair together in the center of both of those sections. So I combine the first and the second section together. In the center of those two sections I hold it straight up 90° from the head. Following my previously cut guide, cutting all the way head shape from the front all the way into the back and just following that guide. Now, by point cutting, that's going to allow the individual pieces of hair at the tip to kind of clump together and make a little bit more of a point. Whereas, if I was to cut this completely blunt straight across, it's going to be a smoother texture. But by point cutting, it's going to force that texture to kind of separate and pop. And it's going to visually give me a little bit more interest when the hair falls. And I don't have to be as precise as if I was to cut this blunt. Blunt demands perfection when you're cutting it. When I'm point cutting it or I'm using the razor, I lighten up how perfect that it has to be. And by lightening it up, it gives me more opportunity for movement. Now, we're continuing to work this all the way back into the nape. Just following the previously cut guide, trying to not cut myself. There we go. Perfect. Work that all the way through. Leaving a little bit more length at the very perimeter in the nape. Continuing that all the way through and down. And just being patient as I'm going through and working my line. You know, when you're working on a mannequin head, they tend to be overly thick. So, sometimes I find myself getting impatient. And I have to force myself to slow down to follow the guide and not just kind of power through it. And that's easier to do on a mannequin head than it is on a client because the mannequins not going to complain. Right. So, now we're going to move on. I'm going to remove the center section, the very first guide that I had, and I'm going to add my third section that I'm cutting. So, I remove section number one, which was my original mohawk section. I have section number two and section number three, holding everything up into the center of both of those sections. So, I'm walking my guide. My guide started in the center of the head. And as I progress over towards the ears, it's going to change. I'm going to walk the guide. So, I'm not pulling everything into the center. I pull it to the center of the sections, but not the center of the head. So, that allows me to not build up such an increase of length as I work towards the perimeter on the sides. Continuing to follow that all the way down and through. There we go. Pretty good. Now, after I finish this section, I'm going to go in to take the rest of the hair on the side of the head. So, I'm going to take the entire side section, hold that up into my third section. So, I remove section two just like I removed the original mohawk section number one. And I'm going to pull everything up radially out around the ears and just cut anything that hangs over. Now I'm going to go back in and cut the sides, but I just want to make sure that none of the hair on the sides is going to overhang any of the hair on the top. So this is more or less me just making sure everything blends and I don't have anything hanging over if I go back and cut the sides and leave something a little bit longer. This is a good habit to get into to make sure everything fits. All these puzzle pieces that you're putting together, you want to make sure that they all fit together. And you don't want to leave anything that sticks out. Just continuing that all the way through radially around the ear until I run out of hair.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe button and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Addressing the Sides Once everything's finished on both sides, we're going to go through and separate the side of the head from the top. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-in scissor, and I like a longer blade when I'm going through and one working on thicker sections of hair and also point cutting. Now, I'm going to take a diagonal section on the side. I'm going to use my bang section, which was the shortest piece that I used as the guide for the layering, and I'm going to pull that forward and cut parallel to my parting to make sure that everything blends through. I want to keep these sides kind of shorter, and I want to keep the back a little bit longer. So, I'm going through and cutting that and seeing how it fits in. I think originally holding it straight down was probably a little too heavy. So, I want to lighten it up a little bit by elevating it a little bit. That's going to soften that line. And once I feel like I have that line fit in right around the jaw and a little longer than the ear, once I feel I got that fit in, I'll continue walking that guide back. So, just like I did on the top where I walk the guide from the center to the sides, now I'm going to walk my guide from the front to the back. So, I'll hold this out 90ish degrees, hold everything straight out, and then cut according to my initial guide and then I'll look at it. So, a lot of times when I'm working these shapes, I'm trying to determine the length that I want. And I don't know the exact length I want until I cut it and look at it. So I'll cut, I'll comb, look at it, see if it fits in. If I like the length or I think that that's a pretty good length or enough to start to build my shape from, then I'll move on. And as I finish each subsection, I'll pay attention to the end result and see if that's fitting in like I want. Now, I know I'm going to go back and texturize these sections of hair. So, when I texturize, it's going to feel a little bit shorter. So keeping that in mind as I go through and determine my lengths, the more I texturize it, the shorter it's going to feel from what it's already cut. Even though I don't cut any more of the length off, but just by applying that texture, it makes it feel airier, which is going to make it feel softer. Seeing how that fits in and blending that all the way through into the back center of the head or until I run out of hair. And here I've started to run out of hair from my layering that was happening on top. And I've got all that fit in. And I think that's looking fairly good. I may need to take a little bit more off when I texturize it, but we'll see when we get there.   Rounding and Blending So now I'm going to take the top section and the side section and where that little corner was created from me holding the top straight up and the side straight out. I'm going to go through and round that corner out. So this is a very round shape, but I want to break it down into sections. So I'm going to cut the top first. I'm going to cut the sides. And then I'm going to blend the two together by rounding the shape out. So I'll take my same diagonal section I was working with in the beginning. Hold that up. And here's a real good view. You can see that little corner popping out there. And I'm just going to blend everything through. I could go through and start my layering and round the layering through and out. But I don't know if that's going to be the right length on the side. So that's why I broke the top and the side into two pieces as opposed to just going through and doing a completely round layer because I don't know if I'm going to get the right length on the sides. That's more important to me than the length on the top. And I'll just continue to work this back as I take that corner out all the way from the front of the head into the back of the head. And just be diligent. Just practice and and be patient and apply the cut line as cleanly as you can. So even though I'm point cutting it, I still want to maintain a solid strong shape. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @JataiFeather. Whatever your favorite one is, we got it. Check it out.   After I finish that and I make sure it's done on the other side and I get both sides like I want, I'm going to go through and separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head and section it out like I did before just to keep everything nice and clean so I don't over texturize one area more than another.   Razor Texturizing I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in the white. And this is a bare blade. So, this gives me the most control over what I'm cutting and how much texturizing I actually apply. Now, this type of technique that I'm using here is kind of in between channel cutting and fillet cutting. So, this is uh the the razor is angled at a 45° against the head. So, it gives me a little bit of separation and a little bit of thinning. So I'll go through put some texture in it and then see how it looks. This would be the channel cutting where I go directly in and force separation. This would be filleting where I lay the blade flat against the head. This is in between where it's at a 45° angle. So I get a little bit of the channeling and a little bit of the of the filleting at the same time. So not only do I thin the piece out, but I also create a little bit of separation, but it's not a complete channel. I'll continue to work this all the way back. And I'm just going to go through and do this to every section of hair on the entire head. And I'm going to be as diligent as I can and apply it as judiciously as I can and try to get that texturizing real even all over. I'm going to pay attention to where the hair is a little thicker and I'll apply a little bit more. Where the hair is a little thinner, I'll apply a little bit less. And I'm just going to work all the way from front to back, every hair, every section, every piece on this entire head until I get everything texturized like I want. And I feel like it's fitting in pretty well. And I'll look at each section as soon as I finish cutting it and seeing if I need to add a little bit more. And I think that that texture is looking pretty good.   Razored Bangs Now, we're finishing up here with my last section on the top. And you can really go through and move fairly quickly once you get the methodology down. Now, we're going to start right here in the front. And I'm going to start fitting in our bang section. And I'm going to take a little piece right there in the front. Cut that really short right in the center. Using that as my guide for both sides. I'll comb this down. Pick up and use that short piece in the middle and angle that down at about a 45, maybe a 40, 39-1/2° angle. I just want to go shorter in the middle, really longer towards the edges and force that hair to move out of the face while being really really short in the middle and instantly building up length. Just being very, very patient, very methodical as I'm applying this because a razor can flat cut some hair off if you're not careful, which is great because it makes it easy to cut hair, easy to apply your shape, but you got to be respectful of it.   Modern Pixie Mullet with Fringe Final Look Now, we're gonna go through and blow it dry and check it out and see what we got. Here's our end result. And I I think we're looking pretty good. I really like this shape. It's a beauty. And I love this little short little piece that gets really long and you get these wolfish bangs. You get this kind of ear muff of hair covering the ears, but yet it can separate right over the ear and give you a little bit of exposure right on your neck. We got our little rock and roll mullet going on for such a classic smooth type of shape. And I think that this works really, really well on a lot of different hair types. Not only will it work on thick hair or thin hair, it will also work on wavy hair. I would probably not do this on the thickest of curly hair. I probably wouldn't do this on real curly hair anyway. In terms of look, it might get a little poodle-ish with a little bit of a mud flap in the back and that would not be cool. But I think this layered pixie mullet works really well. Give it a shot. Add it to your repertoire and I think it will expand your haircut opportunities for short hairstyles and pixie cuts. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.
Rounded Graduated Bob Cut Tutorial with a Razor and Scissors

Tutorial

Rounded Graduated Bob Cut Tutorial with a Razor and Scissors

This is a cute, fun graduated bob cut that's modern with a lot of movement. It's one of those short bob hairstyles that fit a person who has a similar personality. This short hair look has layers, volume and graduation all in one. With bangs that frame the face and a style that can be easily maintained, this graduated bob haircut is a good one to learn. Watch this short graduated bob cut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Graduated Bob Cut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a takeoff on the classic round graduation. But we're going to mix it up a little bit. We're going to be using a Feather Styling Razor. We're going to be using some Tokyo Thinning Scissors. We're even going to be doing some scissor over comb. So, I would call this more of a round-ish graduation. So, let's get started.   From the Sides to the Back So, we're starting here on the side. We're going to take a horizontal parting right above the ear. And that's going to go across the back. And then we're going to take the parting on both sides. Pin the other hair up and out of the way. I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor with the Standard Blade. And this is how I'm going to start the cut. I'm going to start here on the sides so that I can determine the length of my one length over the ears. I want to match both sides before I start my round graduation in the back. And I'm just taking a horizontal section and just cutting my line blunt. A little longer in the front, a little shorter in the back. Now, we're going to take a vertical section angled back. And I'm going to use that length that I cut right above the ear as my guide. And I'm going to angle that down, cutting it shorter at the nape. So, I'm actually graduating the shape, shorter at the nape, longer at the top of the ear. Now, I'm going to angle my parting. I'm going to pivot from where I started my parting and pivot that towards the center of the back. Following my previously cut guide, I'm going to continue to taper that in closer at the nape, a little longer at the top of the section there. Working everything straight back into the middle at an angle. You can see my angle developing there. Now, I'm going to pivot again. And with each pivot, that section gets more and more horizontal. So I start out with a very very vertical section and by the time I finish I'm going to go straight horizontal across the back. And this is going to give me that kind of round beveled graduation where it's shorter at the hairline right behind the ears and at the nape and a little longer in the center back right at the occipital bone. Now we're just going to pivot again. And each section gets a little bit more horizontal. And as I elevate, it's going to get a little bit higher. So I'm going with a very, very low elevation right behind the ear. And then as I work towards the back and as my parting pivots, my elevation gets a little bit higher. So, there's a little bit of a feel that goes into this because I have to visualize in my mind what I want my graduation to be and then lay that in. Now, if I'm using a scissor, it's easier to see the line develop than if I'm using a razor. But the advantage of the razor is it gives me a much softer line and it gives me more movement. I don't have to be as precise with the length, but I do have to be more precise when I lay that initial cut into it because it's hard for me to go back and fine-tune it and clean it up where the scissor is a lot easier.   Building the Graduated Hair Bob Shape After I cut it on both sides and I get everything matching, now I'm going to go through and take a horizontal section parallel to the first sections that I took. Now, this is going to help me start building my stronger bob-ish shape Because I'm using a razor, it's going to bevel it. It's not going to be a real hard edge bob, but I want it a little longer in the front and then just kind of even all the way around. Working from the ear all the way back into the center of the hair. Just using the underneath length as my guide as I'm working from the sides into the back. Now I'll follow with a parallel section and do the exact same kind of motion and methodology that I was doing before. I have a little bit of elevation here. So I soften up that line. A little longer in the front, a little shorter right at the ear. And then we're just going to go straight across the back and doing a horizontal cut so that I don't create any kind of pieciness or separation. I'm just creating softness in my cut line. And I'm just going to follow this right on through and be patient as I work these small sections. If you work with too big of a section with the razor, you're going to end up dulling the blade pretty quick and your line's not going to be nearly as precise as it needs to be for this type of haircut. Following with another horizontal section and following the previously cut guide. A little longer right at the front, a little shorter at the ear, and then work that all the way around.   Give us a thumbs up and click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. You can also leave a comment below, ask a question, and we'll get right back to you and try to answer it.   Now, I'm just going to continue following the same parting that I was doing at the initial section, my very first section. I'm just following that horizontally up until I start to run out of hair. Anything that hangs over, I'm just going to cut off. Now, since I'm cutting this fairly blunt, I want the elevation to bevel the line, but the razoring is going to give me a nice solid line. You'll see I'll take a nice short kind of stroke right through there. I'm not really filleting this by taking a large stroke and making it softer. The longer the stroke, the broader the stroke that you take, the softer that the line gets. Checking that out. And I think that that's looking pretty good. Now we got our last section on this side and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side once I finish this right side. Fine tuning there. I like that. And that's looking pretty good. Perfect. And I like that little bit longer in the front there as well. Now let's go through and cut a little bit of the bangs.   The Graduated Bob with Bangs Now, she already had a little bit of bang cut. So, I'm just going to go through and clean that up. Make it a little shorter over the right eye and a little longer towards the left eye. So, I'm just pulling everything right to that right eye. Taking my angle and then just cutting it short to long. Short at the eyeball, a little longer as it goes to the right. That's going to give me a little bit of movement. And if I need to soften this up later, I can certainly do that. But this gives me a nice moving shape to where it doesn't hang completely in the eyes without some sort of movement going back and forth. And since I'm cutting it shorter over the right eye of my model, it will actually move to its longest piece. So wherever it's short is where it moves from. Wherever it's long is where it moves to. So shorter over the eye, a little longer towards each side.   Scissor Over Comb Now I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is the 6-inch scissor. And I like to do, I like to use this scissor for scissor over comb because it's a nice long skinny blade and its got a good point. So I'm going to go through right here in the nape right at both tendons and taper that line in a little bit shorter. I want that to be very very clean right there at the corners and the tendons and a little longer towards the center. So, I'm just going to go through, take my time, scissor over comb, work that in. I'm not going to go through and recut everything underneath. I just want to cut right there at that hairline behind the ear and clean that line up so it's nice and strong and structured. And it makes that really pop. It makes the shape really pop. When you have a soft shape sitting on top of a harder shape, it really supports it and gives it a little juxtaposition and a contrast in textures. There we go. That's looking pretty good.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   I'll just keep working this until I get it in tight like I want. Now, when I'm doing something very, very detailed like this, I want to take my time and be patient and really exert the amount of energy and effort that this little section here really requires because it is almost the main focal point of this entire haircut, is the structured nape that gives me that kind of round graduation. And when I make it really clean right behind the ear, that really makes everything pop. So, I want to take time and make sure everything fits in just properly. Now, I'm just going to go through and just clean up a little bit right there in the middle. Anything that hangs over that's too long, I'm taking off. I'm not recutting the whole shape. I'm just taking any kind of long pieces that are softening that up and giving it a little bit more structure. Now, let's go through and blow dry and just get everything dry so I can see how much weight that I have because wet hair hides how dense the hair is and it hides how much texture that I have. You can use your hands or a round brush to shape it with the blow dryer.   Fine-Tuning the Graduated Layered Bob Now, I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. This to me is really the perfect thinning scissor. It removes the exact amount of weight that you need. I can go through and hit it several times and remove a lot of weight. I can go through and hit it once and remove a little weight. It's very very seamless. It doesn't give me like big chunky lines left over. Even though I'm going in straight horizontal and thinning this out from roots to ends, well, from mid-shaft to ends, it doesn't leave me any kind of lines. So, by going through and cutting it horizontal like I am to the head, it doesn't introduce any sort of movement to it. It just evenly thins out the hair. Now, I've been having some problems here holding the comb, so I like, oh, there we go again. I dropped it twice in the same haircut. There we go. And once I get everything fit in like I want and just pay attention to it and fine-tuning. Fine-tuning to me is the last 20% that can really make or break a haircut. Getting the basic shape in is easy. It's the fine-tuning that makes it the work of a master.     Final Look of the Graduated Bob Cut with Fringe Here is our end result. And I really like this shape. I think it is fun. It's cute. It's interesting. And for somebody with the right personality that demands something fun and inspiring and really kind of cute and kawaii ('cute' in Japanese). I think that this really opens up a whole new world of possibilities by combining the Styling Razor to create texture with a classic type of shape where it's normally very, very solid. This opens up a lot of different variations. So, I really encourage you to incorporate this, not only the shape, but also the technique of applying it and getting that soft texture to it into your repertoire. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time. A graduated bob can be done on straight, wavy or even curly hair. It can be done on thick hair. It can be made sleek or made voluminous. It can work with various face shapes such as square faces or round faces. Victoria Beckham made popular her bob looking haircut that's similar in style. Thanks for watching this short graduated haircut tutorial.  

Showing 12/80