Tutorial

With all the different cut hairstyles that exist for women, some of them cross over to men's styles. The wolf haircut features longer hair with lots of texture. With feathered ends and a K-pop influence, we get a trendy look that modern men are attracted to. In this mens wolf cut hair tutorial, Russell teaches how to create this look with a razor. Follow along with the video and transcript below. Mens Wolf Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a wolf cut for a man. We're going to do a K-pop inspired wolf cut today, which means it's going to have a lot of texture to it, and it's going to build up a lot of weight in the crown and in the back of the head. So, it still looks longer and fuller, but has a tremendous amount of texture, and the base of it near the nape of the head doesn't get too bulky. We're going to show you how to apply the texture with the Feather Plier Razor and get the perfect amount of texture that looks intentional. So, let's get started. So, I'm going to start with my Feather Plier Razor. Now, I like this razor because it doesn't have a guard and it gives me the most precision and control over my cut line and exactly where and how much texture I can apply. With the sharp bare edge, we can get clean precise cuts.   Channel Cutting the Length So, I'll start in the nape here. I'm going to hold everything straight down at zero elevation and I'll go through and channel a section and then cut my length at the same time. So I will go in deep, try to cut a pretty good little pointed jag into it and then cut the length off. So I don't move my left hand at all when I'm cutting this. That way I can be assured of a fairly straight line. But because I'm going through and putting the texture in at the same time, this will save me a lot of time of having to go back in after I've already cut my perimeter shape and go back in and texture it. It does everything in one step. Now, I find that if I'm doing a very highly textured shape like we're doing today with this wolf cut, I will not go through and cut everything blunt with a pair of scissors and then go back in and try to create texture. Once I cut a blunt line into it, it's very, very difficult to go through and get the amount of texture that I really need to make this haircut pop. So, I basically end up going through and over texturizing the blunt line to try to get my separation and pieciness. Whereas, if I just go through like this, add my texture and the cut with the razor at one time, it's easier, it's less effort, and I can actually get a better, piecier result. So, here I'm moving up to my next section, holding everything straight down at zero elevation again, finding my guide from underneath, and going through and channeling and cutting it the same. And I'll go through and repeat this whole methodology up the entire back of the head until I get all of my lengths cut. I've gone through and started with a basic sectioning where I've sectioned down the center front half from the back half and then from just above the occipital bone to above the mastoid right behind the ears.   If you like this video, give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Cutting Anti-Head Shape So, after I've gone through with my basic sectioning, I'll start at the nape, get my baseline, and work that all the way up until I have the whole back half of the head finished. Now, I'm going to go through and take a center section, hold everything straight back, everything just pulled straight back through here. And then I'm going to cut a straight up and down line. I'm going to go through, determine what length I want my shortest layer to be, hold that straight back, and cut a straight up and down line. So, what this will do is this is actually cutting it anti-head shape. Head shape would be the same length from top to bottom. So anti-head shape is leaving it longer at the top and then shorter in the middle and then longer at the bottom. So this will give me a little bit of graduation that you see right there in the back. Right there how that starts to curve and give me that graduation pop. So I get that fullness from my graduation, but then it allows the hair underneath it to collapse and not get bulky. Now I'm going to walk my guide over to the left. So, I'll take my center section, add a horizontal section on the left side, pull everything into the center of both of those sections, and then follow my guide, cutting straight up and down again. But, as I was talking before about collapsing the nape, by pulling everything at the anti- head shape like this, it will elevate the hair underneath and allow it to collapse. So I don't get that very overly bulky hair right at the nape. It ends up being bulky or fuller right around the back of the head in the center like around the occipital bone. So I get that fullness and it still feels like I got some hair but it doesn't get that mud flap kind of look that you see a lot of those rednecked mullets have. So now we're going to go through and finish our next section. So, we've got section two and section three. I took out my center section. Now, I'm walking my guide over, and I'm continuing to pull everything straight back, you know, parallel to my previous section. Straight back. There's my guide underneath. And we're just going to go through and cut this. Now, the thing is, when you're cutting with a guardless razor, I need to be respectful of the blade. I can touch myself and it won't cut me. It's when that blade touches me and then moves left or right, that's when I start to really cut myself. But I still want to be respectful of this because these blades are very, very sharp, which makes it easy to go through and cut. But it's too easy to go through and cut myself if I get sloppy with it. There is no other tool on the market that will give you this type of look and this type of texture and result. So, I have to learn to respect the tool and then I can use it and get its maximum potential. Last section here. Pulling everything straight back. Making sure all of it blends through with my layering. And I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. That's looking pretty good. Now, here's the entire back finished. I have a nice amount of layer through the back. I get a little buildup of weight right there around the occipital bone, and then everything else under it collapses and flips. And that's the look I'm going for is this kind of flippy piecey kind of wolfy type of shape.   Cutting the Front for Movement So now we're going to section off high on the recession on the side of the head. I'm going to take an angle diagonally back that's going to be parallel to my hairlines. I'm going to pull this forward and then cut it back. So the line is actually kind of straight horizontal, but by me pulling it forward, that's actually going to introduce movement and force this hair to flow back. And you can see right there how it starts to make that hair swing back. So by pulling it forward, I cut the front slightly shorter than I cut the back. And by putting my angle into it, it ends up being a much more horizontal line, but I introduce all of that movement into it. Now, I'm not trying to insert my texture and cut the length here at the same time. I just want to focus on cutting my length and cutting the shape because it's going to be hard to go through on this type of methodology and insert texture and cut the length at the same time. It's easier to do horizontal when I start angling things like this. I want to do it in two steps. So, I'm pulling everything forward, cutting it about right to the tip of the nose, and then angling that back. Once I finish all of this here and I get everything cut to the length that I think I want, then I'll go through and start taking a section in the back of the head and angling that down into the nape.   Blending the Front with the Back So, I'll section off the top and the back here. And then angle. This angle here is going to be parallel to the first section that I took, which is going to be parallel to my hairline right there behind the ear. Now, we're going to pull this straight out from the head at 90° using the length that I established by pulling everything forward. Then, I will go through and cut that straight up and down and blend that into the length in the nape of the hair. So right there, just pulling everything out. I don't have as much hair to cut here because I've already cut the length and I've already cut my layering. This is to make sure that the sides and the back blend together. We'll check that. See how that's looking? I like that. That's pretty good. So now I'm going to continue on doing this same type of sectioning all the way to the center of the back of the head. So continuing parallel sections to my previous section and then holding it straight out to the side of the head. So I'm basically cutting a big box type of shape where it's got a corner right there behind the ear. It's got a corner on the other side and it's got a corner right in the crown. Oh, we missed that little part right there. But there's not much to cut so we'll leave it. Now we're going to get to the center. Pulling everything over. Making sure nothing really hangs over. This is just making sure that everything kind of blends through. Not a whole lot to take through here. So, being very careful, very judicious with my cut and just making sure everything blends through. Now, in the beginning when I went through and took my middle part and then I sectioned off the front of the head from the back of the head and then the nape section out. So this is my quarter part back blending. That's a mouthful right there. So what I'm doing is the section that I cut underneath vertically at the ear to make sure everything blended from the sides down into the nape. Now I'm taking the back half of the head on top and making sure that that blends through with the hair that I've cut underneath. I don't want any hair from the top hanging over and being disconnected from the hair underneath. I want this all to blend through perfectly. We got all that blended through there.   Layering from Back to Front Now, we're going to go through and take a center section. This is a mohawk section from the front all the way to the back. Right there at the crown, I'm going to use that length as the guide for my layering. I'll pull this straight up. Cut this 90° from the head. And working from back to front. And I want to just cut this all the same length going from back to front. When I'm doing this type of layering with a Plier Razor, I have to be mindful of my sectioning. And one way that I can go through and apply this cut line cleanly without being worried that I'm going to cut myself is I have to make sure the hair that's holding the hand is gripping it for life. I mean, it's got a death grip on that section so it doesn't fall out. And then when I apply the razor to this section, gently applying it using the razor motion of up and down to cut, I can go through and cut nice and clean lines without worrying about cutting myself. After I cut the center section, I'm going to take my next parallel section, working to the side, hold those two sections up into the middle. There's my guide from underneath. There we go. There we go. Perfect. And then I'll go through and blend everything through. Anything that hangs over past my guide, I'll cut up. I got a death grip on my section there. This takes a little bit of practice. I would really recommend that before you start layering hair with a razor like this that you take a mannequin head, you practice, you get comfortable with it, and you do it very methodically and very slowly. Don't try to move fast. Moving fast is the enemy of cutting clean sections and clean hair. there My last section. Everything blending through onto the right side of the head. Anything that hangs over from the top, I'll go through and just cut off. Methodically working that through. There we go. Very little to cut there. I think I got a little bit. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Razored Bangs After I finish everything on the right side, I'll do the left side. And now we're going to section off the hair around the front. I'm going to pull the center of that right down to the tip of the nose. And I'm going to go through and razor that length off. That's the length I want my fringe to be. So I'm pulling that straight forward. Cutting that the length I want. Now we're going to split that in half. I'll take the entire right side of the head through here. There's my length that I cut at the sides and I'll blend that through with the little short piece that I cut right there at the front center of the face. Work that all the way through. Blend that all the way through. There we go. Perfect. Just like that. Now, going a little shorter in the middle is going to leave it a little longer towards the side. Wherever hair is shorter, it will move to where hair is longer. There's my length right through there. There's my guide. There it is. Right there. Now, we're going to cut that through. So, shorter hair always flows to longer hair. So if I want to create movement, cut one side shorter and the other side longer. And also because of the razor motion through here, because I'm razoring it from the center to the sides, that will introduce movement as well. Now in the back, I applied texture and length at the same time. Around the front, I couldn't do that. So now we're going to go through and add our texture and thinning around the front. These mannequin heads can get a little thick and sometimes your client's hair is very very thick and you need to go through and add more texture than you think that it needs. There are other times where the hair is a little bit finer where you don't add as much texture. So, you have to use your own discernment to apply the amount of texture that the section needs. Every person's head is going to be different. Every hair texture is going to be different. And this is something that will come with experience of you practicing.   Adding More Seamless Texture Now, we're going to go through and just start applying a little bit of texture all the way around the front half of the head because we've already applied it in the back and we won't need that there. I will go through and check it to make sure, but we want the same type of texture throughout the entirety of the haircut. Going through and just methodically applying a little bit of texture here or there or wherever it needs it. There we go. Perfect. Now, as I start to move in the back here, you can see it's already got pretty pretty good amount of texture. So, I don't need a whole lot through there. Maybe a little maybe not. Yeah, right there. That's looking good. Now, we're just going to go through and do this same type of texturizing throughout the rest of the head, throughout the front of the head (not the back, because we already did that) until everything matches and it blends seamlessly, not only from a length point of view, but also from a texture point of view. I did go through and change the blade about halfway through this haircut. Some types of hair dull blades faster than others, and it usually tends to be the thicker, coarser types of hair that will dull the blade faster. So, I don't want to go through and start pushing hair and not end up with a clean line. So, if I need to change a blade, I'll change a blade. I know some stylists that will use the same blade for years. And I'm telling you, your haircuts are going to suffer from it.   Final Mens Wolf Haircut Look Here's our end result. And I think it's looking pretty nice. I'm checking everything to make sure our texture is good. And there we go. This is our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. Got a lot of great texture to it. And I think by pulling it straight out in the back, it gives it this nice fullness in the back, but we can still have it hyper layered underneath. It doesn't need much styling if the hair is cut right. Razor cut haircuts can do just that. So, we got a lot of texture to it and a lot of separation. And I don't know how these guys wear this hair in their face like that, but they do. That's the style. And this is very reminiscent of what you would see in in K-pop right now over in Korea with a lot of the really hyper trendy guys. And I think that it adds something. It adds some softness with having long hair, but it still keeps its style without being super messy. And this works really well on wavy hair or loose curl hair. I probably wouldn't do this on the curliest of hair. And I think that this would work really well on finer textures of hair, maybe not as much texture as we've done here. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. You have a question or comment, please leave it below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

In this short hair cut fine hair video tutorial, you'll learn how to address fine hair and make it look thicker. While the end result is a short haircut with soft layers this is more of a technical deep dive into techniques for cutting fine hair, not necessarily thin hair. These techniques can apply to a short bob, short hairstyles and even longer hairstyles. Short haircuts are better suited for fine hair and especially thinning hair as the hair is not weighed down as much. When you create the right structure for the haircut, it puts less reliance on styling to make hair more voluminous.  Watch this short hair cut fine hair techniques tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Hair Cut Fine Hair Techniques Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to show you three essential techniques when you're cutting fine hair and fine textured hair. I'm going to show you number one, how to maximize the bluntness of your bob. I'm going to show you the optimal type of graduation you can get so you get the most stack and the most volume with the most solid shape on fine hair. We're going to show you the optimal way to layer hair to get the most even amount of fullness all over the whole head. Without further ado, let's get started.   Technique 1: Cutting Everything Blunt Alright, so trying to make fine hair appear thicker. The first technique we're going to cover is cutting everything completely blunt. When I cut a section completely blunt in one length, like a little bob, it makes finer hair look the thickest that it can. A lot of times I will see people comb the section down, turn their fingers up, go through and cut everything like this. Now, what I'm actually doing when I flip my fingers up, I'm cutting the top of the section shorter than the underneath of the section. So that hair on top is not going to end at the same spot. It's going to be a little shorter. There's also the inverse of that. If I have someone with a lot of cowlicks and I'm trying to encourage it to cup under, then I will take this section. I will comb it down and then I'll roll my fingers under, pick it up, cut that. Now, what I'm actually doing is cutting the underneath slightly shorter than the top. By doing that, it encourages the hair to cup under. But in order to make this as thick as possible, I need to pay attention to the pitch of my scissor blade. And I am using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. It's got a nice long blade with a good pointy, with a pointy tip that's not going to poke me when I go through and cut. It's not that pointy, not that tight, but it is very clean and very sharp. And this is probably my most used scissor from Jatai. Going through, I'm going to comb this section straight down, comb everything clean and leave my fingers perpendicular to the head. I'm not flipping it up. I'm not cupping it under. I'm keeping it perpendicular to the section of hair I'm cutting. So now when I go through and cut, I want to make sure that my scissor angle is perpendicular to the hair that I'm cutting as well. I'm not flipping it up and I'm not flipping it under. I want to keep everything really clean and perpendicular so that when I let that go, all of that hair ends at the same point. On a mannequin head, I'm going to comb this down with my scissors and my comb, and I will cut that straight across. What are you doing in there hiding? Get out of there. I got a little piece hiding there. There we go. Scissors are perpendicular to the section so that when I comb that down and cut that, everything is ending at the same spot. So now I go on to the next section. Comb everything clean from the parting all the way down. Everything perpendicular to the hair. Thick hair, I probably will never do this because I want things to shift under or shift up or not be quite so blunt because if I did this type of technique on someone with really really thick hair, it would end up looking like a broom. But on finer hair, this is the optimal way to cut one length.   Technique 2: Creating Finger Length Graduation Second idea is if they don't want something blunt and they want something a little fuller, we're going to minimize the bluntness by stacking it with some graduation just like I did before. And I'm going to use the same kind of methodology I was doing when I was cutting everything one length. Comb everything down into my fingers. Roll my finger. Cut everything as perpendicular to the hair as possible to get rid of any kind of graduation. We're going to comb that down. Cut that without changing the pitch of my scissor. I want my scissor perpendicular to the hair. So, if the hair is here, I want my scissor right there. I don't want to cut any angles on that. Cut that straight across. Everything's cut nice and blunt. Now we're going to go through take about 3/4 of an inch, maybe a finger width. The next section I will use the guide from underneath, but instead of just one finger, I'm going to put two fingers in. This is going to give me another finger length of elevation. There's my guide from underneath. Still cutting blunt and perpendicular to the head. Combing this straight down. I got two fingers in there. Now there's my guide from underneath. Cut that perpendicular to the hair. Comb this one down again. Two fingers. There's my guide. Cut that straight across perpendicular to the head. Now, you're going to start to see a little bit of graduation popping up in my sections because I've elevated it one more finger angle. So, guess what we're going to do now? We're going to go one more finger length as I go up. Now, I did the first one at a one finger, the second one at a two-finger. Now, I'm going to do a three-finger elevation. So, I'll go through, take my section from underneath. I've got three fingers. I'm elevating. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Come through here. Three fingers underneath. There's my line. Cut that through. I want to make sure that I'm not changing my finger angle or the angle of my scissor. Same thing I was doing before. There's my guide. Three fingers. Boom. So now you start to see a nice beveling of our line. So it's giving it a low angle of graduation which is going to stack perfectly on fine hair to give it that fuller type of graduated shape without over graduating it to where it just becomes a bubble shape. This will still maintain a nice angle of graduation and still maintain a bob shape. It won't bevel it out like a little bubble.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Now we should be above the occipital bone. We got three sections below the occipital. Now we got our first section above the occipital. So now I'm going to lay my comb right there at the parting. That's going to show me the angle of elevation that I have. Where's my guide? There's my guide. right there. Cut everything perpendicular to my section. I missed two hairs there. Now, we're going to go through. Same thing here. There's my line underneath. Cut that through. Cut that through. Perfect type of graduation. It's a low graduation which gives me really the most amount of volume in a graduated shape and it works excellently on fine hair. If I want to maintain my one length shape, everything else gets pulled to the exact same elevation that this was pulled. So now everything pulls to here and I can continue my bob shape around. Now I know what you're saying. At this point you're saying, "Well, my client doesn't want a bob. She doesn't want graduation. She wants a bubble. She wants everything to be full layered with as much volume as possible." Okay. Well, we can do that.   Technique 3: Use the Correct Elevation The thing you have to watch out for, which brings me to technique number three, is that whenever you lay your hair, every section that you take has to be held at the same elevation. The minute that hair starts getting over-directed to one area versus another, you start pulling hair out. What it does is it introduces length. It introduces shorter where you're pulling it to and longer where you're moving it from. And so because you're having that increase of length, it diminishes the amount of volume and a fullness that you can have. So I want everything to be layered exactly 90 degrees from the head. And that looks like this. Alright. So I got my center section. I'm going to take the comb and lay it against the head. And where it's flat, that determines the size of my section. Because if I take for instance these two sections, this is 90°. This is 90°. So if I hold them in the middle, this one's being under-elevated. This one's being over-elevated. So I want to make sure everything is the exact same elevation. So I have the exact same amount of weight and I can keep everything as full as possible. So, I'll pull my first little flat section out. Determine what length that I want. Cut that blunt across. I'll take a small piece as my guide. Now, I take my next flat section. I hold it to 90. There's my guide from the front. I cut that all exactly the same length as the head. Take a small piece as my guide. Now I will take my next section where it's flat. Comb that straight up 90 degrees from the head. There's my guide from the front. I'll go through and cut that blunt. I want to make sure that this is not only cut blunt like it was when I was doing my one length bob. And I'm not curving and making one side of this longer or shorter. I also want to keep it the same from front to back. Everything, pitch of the scissor is the same. Everything is blunt and as smooth and as even as possible. By going through and cutting everything as even as possible, that gives me the maximum amount of volume with the maximum amount of density per layered section. From here, I'll take a parallel section to the first section. So, now I'm going to take my original guide and use that as the guide. I'm going to take my next section, hold it into the center of both of those two sections. Comb this straight up and out. There's my guide. I'm going to cut this perfectly blunt and across. Watching the pitch of my blade. Watching the pitch of how I comb the section. I want everything as blunt as possible. Small piece as my guide. There's my next section. Comb to the center of both of those two sections. Cut that straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Next section. And follow that all the way down and through until I run out of hair. Now I'm going to take my third section on this side. We're going to take the third section where it's flat. Follow my previous guide. Take this as parallel to that original guide as I possibly can. Now I'm going to comb section two and section three to the center of both of those two sections. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that blunt across. Take a small piece as my guide. My next little flat section into the middle of both of those two sections. Small piece as my guide. And continue this all the way until I run out of hair. And until I run out of sections on this side. Then go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side.   Final Results I just realized I styled your hair like Axel Rose's mom. Alright, here's our end result. And I think this really, though this style is very kind of generic. It's just basically round layers with a blunt little nape because of the graduation that we put in it. This was really an exercise in showing you three key techniques to make finer hair fuller and thicker looking. So, her hair is not as thick as some of the other mannequin heads, but the technique shows you how to do it. You can get a nice even full layering. This is without me round brushing, me just shaking my hands through it. And then we got this nice kind of stacked fullness in the back that if we feel like it's too low of a graduation, it's very easy to change and just go through and change our angle on it. But this gives you the maximum amount of heavy graduation for finer hair to still keep it solid and blunt looking. You got a nice little round layer through there that's evenly distributed and it doesn't add to any sort of collapsing technique by over-directing anything one side to another. Check these techniques out. Please practice them. Add them to your repertoire. They can really add a lot to your technique when it comes to cutting fine hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We will see you next time. Using techniques for cutting fine hair can help you address challenges with fine hair. Whether you're doing a short cut such as a pixie cut, giving regular trims, creating a French bob or simply putting in bangs, your fine hair clients will want these styles to also give volume. Women often have more desire for different styles and want their hairstyle to compliment their face shape. Incorporating these three techniques should help you achieve that.  

Shirley Partridge of the Partridge family in the 1970s rocked a modern pixie mullet style. Who knew it could come full circle and make it's way back into a more modern edgy hairstyle? Using scissors and a razor, this short hair pixie cut has layers and hair texture and a fun look. Mixie haircuts have become popular in modern times. Watch this short modern pixie mullet tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Shirley Partridge Modern Pixie Mullet Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a modern version of the Shirley Partridge from the Partridge family. She had this really cool pixie kind of cut and I think that's where the little pixie wolf bang came from was from her. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut. But she also had a little modern a little rock and roll version of it with it being a little longer in the back, a little mullety in the back. So, we're going to show you how to do a pixie cut mullet on our mannequin head here. It's very cool, very iconic, something you might see walking around the streets of Silver Lake. Silver Lake, if you don't know, is the coolest part of LA. It's where all the cool people are. So, we're going to show you how to do that haircut and make all your clients super cool. So, let's get started.   Point Cut Mohawk Sections So, let's just jump right on in here. I'm going to take a mohawk section and I'm going to hold each section at 90° straight out from the head and I'm going to point cut that across. Take a small piece as my guide and move on back and just cut my entire mohawk section the same-ish length all the way from front to back. And I'm determining my length by where it falls on the face. I want it to fall a little bit above the tip of the nose, but not quite up to the eyebrow. You can obviously take this shorter, you know, or longer depending upon your client and their thickness and density of their hair. And I think that Shirley wore her hair quite a bit shorter than I'm cutting it. But since I'm trying to modernize it, I'm going to leave myself a little bit more length to get a little bit more movement to it so it has a little bit more versatility in the styling of it. So, we're just continuing that straight back. I'll take a small piece as my guide from the previously cut section. Hold everything out at 90ish° and just go through and cut everything the head shape all the way down to the occipital bone which is that bump right in the middle of the back of the head. Now, once I hit the mastoid, I'm going to go anti- head shape. So, instead of going all the way in, I'm going all the way down and out. And you can see how that's not following the curvature of the head right through there. That's going to leave me a little bit more length at the very perimeter of the back, which is going to start to build up my kind of mullety shape. And also, when I go inverted like that, it helps the hair collapse a little bit more. The more of the head shape that it is, the more volume you get, the more anti- head shape, the less volume and the more the shape collapses. Now I'm going to take a parallel section to my first section and I'm going to hold those two pieces of hair together in the center of both of those sections. So I combine the first and the second section together. In the center of those two sections I hold it straight up 90° from the head. Following my previously cut guide, cutting all the way head shape from the front all the way into the back and just following that guide. Now, by point cutting, that's going to allow the individual pieces of hair at the tip to kind of clump together and make a little bit more of a point. Whereas, if I was to cut this completely blunt straight across, it's going to be a smoother texture. But by point cutting, it's going to force that texture to kind of separate and pop. And it's going to visually give me a little bit more interest when the hair falls. And I don't have to be as precise as if I was to cut this blunt. Blunt demands perfection when you're cutting it. When I'm point cutting it or I'm using the razor, I lighten up how perfect that it has to be. And by lightening it up, it gives me more opportunity for movement. Now, we're continuing to work this all the way back into the nape. Just following the previously cut guide, trying to not cut myself. There we go. Perfect. Work that all the way through. Leaving a little bit more length at the very perimeter in the nape. Continuing that all the way through and down. And just being patient as I'm going through and working my line. You know, when you're working on a mannequin head, they tend to be overly thick. So, sometimes I find myself getting impatient. And I have to force myself to slow down to follow the guide and not just kind of power through it. And that's easier to do on a mannequin head than it is on a client because the mannequins not going to complain. Right. So, now we're going to move on. I'm going to remove the center section, the very first guide that I had, and I'm going to add my third section that I'm cutting. So, I remove section number one, which was my original mohawk section. I have section number two and section number three, holding everything up into the center of both of those sections. So, I'm walking my guide. My guide started in the center of the head. And as I progress over towards the ears, it's going to change. I'm going to walk the guide. So, I'm not pulling everything into the center. I pull it to the center of the sections, but not the center of the head. So, that allows me to not build up such an increase of length as I work towards the perimeter on the sides. Continuing to follow that all the way down and through. There we go. Pretty good. Now, after I finish this section, I'm going to go in to take the rest of the hair on the side of the head. So, I'm going to take the entire side section, hold that up into my third section. So, I remove section two just like I removed the original mohawk section number one. And I'm going to pull everything up radially out around the ears and just cut anything that hangs over. Now I'm going to go back in and cut the sides, but I just want to make sure that none of the hair on the sides is going to overhang any of the hair on the top. So this is more or less me just making sure everything blends and I don't have anything hanging over if I go back and cut the sides and leave something a little bit longer. This is a good habit to get into to make sure everything fits. All these puzzle pieces that you're putting together, you want to make sure that they all fit together. And you don't want to leave anything that sticks out. Just continuing that all the way through radially around the ear until I run out of hair.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe button and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Addressing the Sides Once everything's finished on both sides, we're going to go through and separate the side of the head from the top. I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-in scissor, and I like a longer blade when I'm going through and one working on thicker sections of hair and also point cutting. Now, I'm going to take a diagonal section on the side. I'm going to use my bang section, which was the shortest piece that I used as the guide for the layering, and I'm going to pull that forward and cut parallel to my parting to make sure that everything blends through. I want to keep these sides kind of shorter, and I want to keep the back a little bit longer. So, I'm going through and cutting that and seeing how it fits in. I think originally holding it straight down was probably a little too heavy. So, I want to lighten it up a little bit by elevating it a little bit. That's going to soften that line. And once I feel like I have that line fit in right around the jaw and a little longer than the ear, once I feel I got that fit in, I'll continue walking that guide back. So, just like I did on the top where I walk the guide from the center to the sides, now I'm going to walk my guide from the front to the back. So, I'll hold this out 90ish degrees, hold everything straight out, and then cut according to my initial guide and then I'll look at it. So, a lot of times when I'm working these shapes, I'm trying to determine the length that I want. And I don't know the exact length I want until I cut it and look at it. So I'll cut, I'll comb, look at it, see if it fits in. If I like the length or I think that that's a pretty good length or enough to start to build my shape from, then I'll move on. And as I finish each subsection, I'll pay attention to the end result and see if that's fitting in like I want. Now, I know I'm going to go back and texturize these sections of hair. So, when I texturize, it's going to feel a little bit shorter. So keeping that in mind as I go through and determine my lengths, the more I texturize it, the shorter it's going to feel from what it's already cut. Even though I don't cut any more of the length off, but just by applying that texture, it makes it feel airier, which is going to make it feel softer. Seeing how that fits in and blending that all the way through into the back center of the head or until I run out of hair. And here I've started to run out of hair from my layering that was happening on top. And I've got all that fit in. And I think that's looking fairly good. I may need to take a little bit more off when I texturize it, but we'll see when we get there.   Rounding and Blending So now I'm going to take the top section and the side section and where that little corner was created from me holding the top straight up and the side straight out. I'm going to go through and round that corner out. So this is a very round shape, but I want to break it down into sections. So I'm going to cut the top first. I'm going to cut the sides. And then I'm going to blend the two together by rounding the shape out. So I'll take my same diagonal section I was working with in the beginning. Hold that up. And here's a real good view. You can see that little corner popping out there. And I'm just going to blend everything through. I could go through and start my layering and round the layering through and out. But I don't know if that's going to be the right length on the side. So that's why I broke the top and the side into two pieces as opposed to just going through and doing a completely round layer because I don't know if I'm going to get the right length on the sides. That's more important to me than the length on the top. And I'll just continue to work this back as I take that corner out all the way from the front of the head into the back of the head. And just be diligent. Just practice and and be patient and apply the cut line as cleanly as you can. So even though I'm point cutting it, I still want to maintain a solid strong shape. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @JataiFeather. Whatever your favorite one is, we got it. Check it out.   After I finish that and I make sure it's done on the other side and I get both sides like I want, I'm going to go through and separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head and section it out like I did before just to keep everything nice and clean so I don't over texturize one area more than another.   Razor Texturizing I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in the white. And this is a bare blade. So, this gives me the most control over what I'm cutting and how much texturizing I actually apply. Now, this type of technique that I'm using here is kind of in between channel cutting and fillet cutting. So, this is uh the the razor is angled at a 45° against the head. So, it gives me a little bit of separation and a little bit of thinning. So I'll go through put some texture in it and then see how it looks. This would be the channel cutting where I go directly in and force separation. This would be filleting where I lay the blade flat against the head. This is in between where it's at a 45° angle. So I get a little bit of the channeling and a little bit of the of the filleting at the same time. So not only do I thin the piece out, but I also create a little bit of separation, but it's not a complete channel. I'll continue to work this all the way back. And I'm just going to go through and do this to every section of hair on the entire head. And I'm going to be as diligent as I can and apply it as judiciously as I can and try to get that texturizing real even all over. I'm going to pay attention to where the hair is a little thicker and I'll apply a little bit more. Where the hair is a little thinner, I'll apply a little bit less. And I'm just going to work all the way from front to back, every hair, every section, every piece on this entire head until I get everything texturized like I want. And I feel like it's fitting in pretty well. And I'll look at each section as soon as I finish cutting it and seeing if I need to add a little bit more. And I think that that texture is looking pretty good.   Razored Bangs Now, we're finishing up here with my last section on the top. And you can really go through and move fairly quickly once you get the methodology down. Now, we're going to start right here in the front. And I'm going to start fitting in our bang section. And I'm going to take a little piece right there in the front. Cut that really short right in the center. Using that as my guide for both sides. I'll comb this down. Pick up and use that short piece in the middle and angle that down at about a 45, maybe a 40, 39-1/2° angle. I just want to go shorter in the middle, really longer towards the edges and force that hair to move out of the face while being really really short in the middle and instantly building up length. Just being very, very patient, very methodical as I'm applying this because a razor can flat cut some hair off if you're not careful, which is great because it makes it easy to cut hair, easy to apply your shape, but you got to be respectful of it.   Modern Pixie Mullet with Fringe Final Look Now, we're gonna go through and blow it dry and check it out and see what we got. Here's our end result. And I I think we're looking pretty good. I really like this shape. It's a beauty. And I love this little short little piece that gets really long and you get these wolfish bangs. You get this kind of ear muff of hair covering the ears, but yet it can separate right over the ear and give you a little bit of exposure right on your neck. We got our little rock and roll mullet going on for such a classic smooth type of shape. And I think that this works really, really well on a lot of different hair types. Not only will it work on thick hair or thin hair, it will also work on wavy hair. I would probably not do this on the thickest of curly hair. I probably wouldn't do this on real curly hair anyway. In terms of look, it might get a little poodle-ish with a little bit of a mud flap in the back and that would not be cool. But I think this layered pixie mullet works really well. Give it a shot. Add it to your repertoire and I think it will expand your haircut opportunities for short hairstyles and pixie cuts. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.

This is a cute, fun graduated bob cut that's modern with a lot of movement. It's one of those short bob hairstyles that fit a person who has a similar personality. This short hair look has layers, volume and graduation all in one. With bangs that frame the face and a style that can be easily maintained, this graduated bob haircut is a good one to learn. Watch this short graduated bob cut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Graduated Bob Cut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a takeoff on the classic round graduation. But we're going to mix it up a little bit. We're going to be using a Feather Styling Razor. We're going to be using some Tokyo Thinning Scissors. We're even going to be doing some scissor over comb. So, I would call this more of a round-ish graduation. So, let's get started.   From the Sides to the Back So, we're starting here on the side. We're going to take a horizontal parting right above the ear. And that's going to go across the back. And then we're going to take the parting on both sides. Pin the other hair up and out of the way. I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor with the Standard Blade. And this is how I'm going to start the cut. I'm going to start here on the sides so that I can determine the length of my one length over the ears. I want to match both sides before I start my round graduation in the back. And I'm just taking a horizontal section and just cutting my line blunt. A little longer in the front, a little shorter in the back. Now, we're going to take a vertical section angled back. And I'm going to use that length that I cut right above the ear as my guide. And I'm going to angle that down, cutting it shorter at the nape. So, I'm actually graduating the shape, shorter at the nape, longer at the top of the ear. Now, I'm going to angle my parting. I'm going to pivot from where I started my parting and pivot that towards the center of the back. Following my previously cut guide, I'm going to continue to taper that in closer at the nape, a little longer at the top of the section there. Working everything straight back into the middle at an angle. You can see my angle developing there. Now, I'm going to pivot again. And with each pivot, that section gets more and more horizontal. So I start out with a very very vertical section and by the time I finish I'm going to go straight horizontal across the back. And this is going to give me that kind of round beveled graduation where it's shorter at the hairline right behind the ears and at the nape and a little longer in the center back right at the occipital bone. Now we're just going to pivot again. And each section gets a little bit more horizontal. And as I elevate, it's going to get a little bit higher. So I'm going with a very, very low elevation right behind the ear. And then as I work towards the back and as my parting pivots, my elevation gets a little bit higher. So, there's a little bit of a feel that goes into this because I have to visualize in my mind what I want my graduation to be and then lay that in. Now, if I'm using a scissor, it's easier to see the line develop than if I'm using a razor. But the advantage of the razor is it gives me a much softer line and it gives me more movement. I don't have to be as precise with the length, but I do have to be more precise when I lay that initial cut into it because it's hard for me to go back and fine-tune it and clean it up where the scissor is a lot easier.   Building the Graduated Hair Bob Shape After I cut it on both sides and I get everything matching, now I'm going to go through and take a horizontal section parallel to the first sections that I took. Now, this is going to help me start building my stronger bob-ish shape Because I'm using a razor, it's going to bevel it. It's not going to be a real hard edge bob, but I want it a little longer in the front and then just kind of even all the way around. Working from the ear all the way back into the center of the hair. Just using the underneath length as my guide as I'm working from the sides into the back. Now I'll follow with a parallel section and do the exact same kind of motion and methodology that I was doing before. I have a little bit of elevation here. So I soften up that line. A little longer in the front, a little shorter right at the ear. And then we're just going to go straight across the back and doing a horizontal cut so that I don't create any kind of pieciness or separation. I'm just creating softness in my cut line. And I'm just going to follow this right on through and be patient as I work these small sections. If you work with too big of a section with the razor, you're going to end up dulling the blade pretty quick and your line's not going to be nearly as precise as it needs to be for this type of haircut. Following with another horizontal section and following the previously cut guide. A little longer right at the front, a little shorter at the ear, and then work that all the way around.   Give us a thumbs up and click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. You can also leave a comment below, ask a question, and we'll get right back to you and try to answer it.   Now, I'm just going to continue following the same parting that I was doing at the initial section, my very first section. I'm just following that horizontally up until I start to run out of hair. Anything that hangs over, I'm just going to cut off. Now, since I'm cutting this fairly blunt, I want the elevation to bevel the line, but the razoring is going to give me a nice solid line. You'll see I'll take a nice short kind of stroke right through there. I'm not really filleting this by taking a large stroke and making it softer. The longer the stroke, the broader the stroke that you take, the softer that the line gets. Checking that out. And I think that that's looking pretty good. Now we got our last section on this side and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side once I finish this right side. Fine tuning there. I like that. And that's looking pretty good. Perfect. And I like that little bit longer in the front there as well. Now let's go through and cut a little bit of the bangs.   The Graduated Bob with Bangs Now, she already had a little bit of bang cut. So, I'm just going to go through and clean that up. Make it a little shorter over the right eye and a little longer towards the left eye. So, I'm just pulling everything right to that right eye. Taking my angle and then just cutting it short to long. Short at the eyeball, a little longer as it goes to the right. That's going to give me a little bit of movement. And if I need to soften this up later, I can certainly do that. But this gives me a nice moving shape to where it doesn't hang completely in the eyes without some sort of movement going back and forth. And since I'm cutting it shorter over the right eye of my model, it will actually move to its longest piece. So wherever it's short is where it moves from. Wherever it's long is where it moves to. So shorter over the eye, a little longer towards each side.   Scissor Over Comb Now I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is the 6-inch scissor. And I like to do, I like to use this scissor for scissor over comb because it's a nice long skinny blade and its got a good point. So I'm going to go through right here in the nape right at both tendons and taper that line in a little bit shorter. I want that to be very very clean right there at the corners and the tendons and a little longer towards the center. So, I'm just going to go through, take my time, scissor over comb, work that in. I'm not going to go through and recut everything underneath. I just want to cut right there at that hairline behind the ear and clean that line up so it's nice and strong and structured. And it makes that really pop. It makes the shape really pop. When you have a soft shape sitting on top of a harder shape, it really supports it and gives it a little juxtaposition and a contrast in textures. There we go. That's looking pretty good.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   I'll just keep working this until I get it in tight like I want. Now, when I'm doing something very, very detailed like this, I want to take my time and be patient and really exert the amount of energy and effort that this little section here really requires because it is almost the main focal point of this entire haircut, is the structured nape that gives me that kind of round graduation. And when I make it really clean right behind the ear, that really makes everything pop. So, I want to take time and make sure everything fits in just properly. Now, I'm just going to go through and just clean up a little bit right there in the middle. Anything that hangs over that's too long, I'm taking off. I'm not recutting the whole shape. I'm just taking any kind of long pieces that are softening that up and giving it a little bit more structure. Now, let's go through and blow dry and just get everything dry so I can see how much weight that I have because wet hair hides how dense the hair is and it hides how much texture that I have. You can use your hands or a round brush to shape it with the blow dryer.   Fine-Tuning the Graduated Layered Bob Now, I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. This to me is really the perfect thinning scissor. It removes the exact amount of weight that you need. I can go through and hit it several times and remove a lot of weight. I can go through and hit it once and remove a little weight. It's very very seamless. It doesn't give me like big chunky lines left over. Even though I'm going in straight horizontal and thinning this out from roots to ends, well, from mid-shaft to ends, it doesn't leave me any kind of lines. So, by going through and cutting it horizontal like I am to the head, it doesn't introduce any sort of movement to it. It just evenly thins out the hair. Now, I've been having some problems here holding the comb, so I like, oh, there we go again. I dropped it twice in the same haircut. There we go. And once I get everything fit in like I want and just pay attention to it and fine-tuning. Fine-tuning to me is the last 20% that can really make or break a haircut. Getting the basic shape in is easy. It's the fine-tuning that makes it the work of a master.     Final Look of the Graduated Bob Cut with Fringe Here is our end result. And I really like this shape. I think it is fun. It's cute. It's interesting. And for somebody with the right personality that demands something fun and inspiring and really kind of cute and kawaii ('cute' in Japanese). I think that this really opens up a whole new world of possibilities by combining the Styling Razor to create texture with a classic type of shape where it's normally very, very solid. This opens up a lot of different variations. So, I really encourage you to incorporate this, not only the shape, but also the technique of applying it and getting that soft texture to it into your repertoire. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time. A graduated bob can be done on straight, wavy or even curly hair. It can be done on thick hair. It can be made sleek or made voluminous. It can work with various face shapes such as square faces or round faces. Victoria Beckham made popular her bob looking haircut that's similar in style. Thanks for watching this short graduated haircut tutorial.  

In this tutorial we look at a textured bob haircut that's stylish and modern. With lots of movement and separation this is a bob cut perfect for the new year! If you're looking for bob haircut ideas as a hairstylist, this one says 2026. Bob haircuts will always be in style and with a wide variety of bob hairstyles, textured hair gives the most modern look. Watch this video and follow along with the transcript below.    Textured Bob Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an experiment in a double layered overt bob. Double layered means it's going to have more layering than you think a bob can have. Overt because we're going to open everything up and show you exactly how to do it. Is it still going to look like a bob with that much layering? Yes, it will. Still going to be a bob. Alright, so let's get started. Let's start with some sectioning here. We're going to take a side section to the quarter part, then down to the nape. And then we're going to section out right behind the ear.   Establishing the Length I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the limited edition wood-look. I'm also using the Standard Blade. Starting on the side, I'm going to take a little section of hair right above the ear and use that to get the lengths balanced on both sides. This is also going to be my length for when I go through and hold this straight up in the air and layer it. So, I see that piece falling out. That's the length that I'm going to use as my guide to cut that length right through there. By cutting my length guide first and using that as my layering guide, it prevents me from cutting my layering too short. You'll also see me using that length that I cut initially as the visual for me to pinch cut all this length here and start to build my one length shape. So by pinching a little section of hair that wants to separate together, that's going to allow me to build up a bob-like shape without going through and cutting everything perfectly blunt. So, by leaving it a little haphazard and some sections a little longer and some a little shorter, I can get a lot of movement through it without it being really hard or blunt. And the more movement that I have, the more visually interesting that the shape can be and the more ways that I can style it and the broader range of hair textures that I can put this shape on. After we've done one side, we've got it like we want, we'll go through and match that to the other side until both sides match. Now, I'll start in the center of the nape.   Collapsing the Shape I'm going to pull this center part of the section straight up in the air and cut that about an inch longer than my parting right there at the occipital bone. Now, granted this is very, very short right here in the nape, but because I'm pulling it up, it's going to leave me length on the bottom. But it's also going to collapse the shape. So, it's going to keep the shape from being too thick and too bulky and not having that same movement that I'm going to have on the sides. So, I can match the fluidity and the movement from the back into the sides. Now, I'll just match this on both sides. Pull everything straight up using the center section as my initial guide and blending it towards each side. There we go. A good look at it right there. Going from center out. Just keeping the same broad razor stroke that I was using throughout. Once I got that done, check it out.   Blending Around the Ears Now, we're going to go through and blend the section right behind the ear. We're going to hold that straight up in the air just like I did the other sections underneath, but this time I'm using the length that I used on the sides, not the length I used in the back. I'm going to match this on both sides. So, I'm leaving a little bit more length and a little bit more density right behind the ear because that section of the head doesn't have as much hair. So, it gives me a good way to blend. And by having that a little bit weightier and a little bit heavier, (that kind of looks like a cool mullet right there by the way) but by having that section behind the ear a little weightier and heavier, it also makes my bob a little stronger. If I was to layer that as much as I had layered the back, my bob shape is not going to be as strong.   Addressing the Back Now, we're going to hold everything straight down. I'm going to cut my one length that I choose in the back. I'll take a little bit of weight out right through there and then just lay the blade flat across the section and cut my one length right in the back. Now, I'm not worried about this being the same length all the way around for a one length bob. I want to bevel this a little bit towards the sides. So, I'm going to leave it a little longer in the back and then round my corner out as I start working from the back into the sides. I want that kind of bevel.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Short Front, Long Back I have been fascinated with a lot of the Asian bobs that we're seeing and they're all beveled around the front. A little shorter in the back and a little, I'm sorry, a little shorter in the front and longer in the back. And I find that very visually interesting when it's coming to these bob shapes. Now, we're going to take a little section right in the front, right there in the center of the front section of the head. I'm going to comb that down. And this is going to be the guide for my shortest layer. It's not going to be the bangs. It's going to be the guide for the shortest layer. I'll take a center section, hold that straight up and using that short little piece that I just cut as my guide, I'm going to start cutting from shorter to longer. So, I'm trying to keep this idea and this feeling of shorter around the face, a little longer in the back, but I don't want it to be completely bi-level. I want it to blend through. So, by holding this straight up and cutting my layering from short to long in the back, I can remove more weight around the front, but still have a good solid bob shape. But it introduces movement where it flows around the front a little bit more. Because it's shorter in the front, longer in the back, hair flows to its longest piece. I'll take a parallel section, hold that straight up into the center of the head, following my initial guide, and then razor that through just as I did in my previous section. I'm taking a pretty large section here. And then also with the hair underneath as my guide, that's a pretty thick section. So, if you can't work in sections as big as I am, it's easy to take much smaller sections. Again, pulling everything to the center of the head using my guide lengths from underneath. And anything that hangs over that I get to cut off. Keeping the same razor stroke that I was underneath, now I'll take everything on this side of the head. The underneath is going to fall out, but anything on the rest of the head, I'm going to pull up into the center and cut those lengths off. Make sure you keep a good firm grip on the hair and it makes it easier to cut. Now, after I finish the left side, I will go through and do the exact same thing on the right side. After I finish both sides and it's looking the way I want, I'll take a center section again and start blending that through the back. I'll take my center section in the back. I'll hold that straight up. You'll see my guide length from the front right through there. And then I'll continue cutting that length all the way back. But I'm not increasing my length as I go back like I did in the front. I'm cutting everything just horizontal straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   So after we cut that all the way down till we run out of hair, I'll take a parallel section just like I did in the front. Hold that up into the center again. And using my guide from underneath, anything that hangs over, I will cut off. As I'm working these layers through into the nape, I'm not increasing the length. I'm keeping it the same. Or I could layer it down and bevel the shape a little bit more depending upon the thickness of the hair. And I'll just keep working this section over until I run out of hair on the right side. Then I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the left side. There we go. Looking good. And you can see that long little corner right through there, right behind the ear because the hairline behind the ear doesn't have any hair. So I need to add a little bit more weight to make sure I can keep my bob shape.   Beveling Now I'm going to start right in the center just like I was doing underneath on the sides. I'll take a little section. I'll pinch it into my fingers and then cut that until I can bevel it. So, I'll start cutting on one side, then maybe on the other side. And I want to keep piecing that out and just little pinches of hair so I can start fitting my bob shape in. This is where the bob starts to really pop. But by going through and doing this, it gives me a lot of movement and a lot of variation and a lot of softness, but it doesn't build up an overly strong structured shape. And I just keep working that all the way around until I get the shape looking like I want on my perimeter. So in this shape, I've gone through and layered it first and then cut my perimeter shape into it. 99% of the time I will go through, cut my perimeter shape and then layer it. If I go through and I'm trying to get a lot of texture and a lot of lightness and a lot of airiness in it, by cutting the perimeter first, I've already made it too solid and it's very, very difficult to get that solidity out of it once I put it in.   The Bangs Now, we're going to go through and take our little section right around the front and make sure that that blends into where my shortest layer was. So, I'll start in the center and just bevel that a little longer towards the corners on the sides. So, it's shorter in the middle, a little longer towards the left and a little longer towards the right. Now, after I've got everything fit in, I'm going to go through and put a little undercut bang right here in the front. I think a little undercut will give it a little bit more airiness and poppiness around the front without being overly solid or overly styled. So, we're going to start in the center doing the same thing. Just pinching into a little section. Cutting it visually as I see it needs to be cut. Doing the same thing on both sides. Shorter in the center, a little longer as it goes towards each side. Now, this shape offers a lot of variation depending upon hair types like the thickness or the thinness of the hair. You could even do this on curly hair, but I might use a scissor to point cut it as opposed to a razor depending on the texture of the hair.   Textured Bob with Bangs Final Look  After I get all that done, I'm going to go through and blow it dry. And you can really see the texture popping here. And I like it. Here's our end result. And I think that we have a really strong bob shape to it even though we have double layered it. We've layered it underneath so much that it barely has any shape at all. But we still have a strong perimeter shape. We've layered the top maximum layer that you can get into it with a razor, but yet we still have a strong solid bob shape. And I think the benefit of going through and razoring the layering first and controlling how much layering we're taking out and then going back in and putting in our perimeter shape, it really helps us control exactly how strong of a perimeter shape that we put into it. Add this textured bob cut with layers to your repertoire. Experiment with it a little bit. Get your doll head and play around and I think it will open up a whole new world of possibilities for your layering and your razoring. If you're looking for bob ideas or specifically textured bobs, this one is a good one to pin.  Please check out the Jatai Academy. There are all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. There are also a ton of other not so classic and classic bob tutorials. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, post below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you then.  

Let's take a look at the famous David Cassidy hairstyle popularized in the 70s. This Partridge family icon made the men's shag haircut a fashion statement for the times. In this tutorial you will learn how to cut the original classic 70s shag that David wore and bring it back to life, not the modern version of it. Why? Because sometimes learning how to cut classic styles can inspire new creativity in your haircutting as the techniques are totally different from modern haircutting.  Watch this David Cassidy 1970s shag haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    David Cassidy Hairstyle Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of the original 60s-70s man shag made popular by David Cassidy. His hair was iconically 70s and made the shag popular. Now this is the original version of the shag, not the modern reinterpretation of it where it's really highly textured. This is going to be the original. So, we make sure that we get the layering in it really short to get fullness on top. Make sure you get some bangs in it. Get the feathers because the feathers are very, very important. They're imperative to have in this shape. So, we're going to show you how to do all that. So, let's get started.   Pulling Everything  Up So, let's go through and section everything out before we even start cutting to make sure that we can work as cleanly as possible. Take a center section to the crown from the high point of the head to the top of the ear. Then in the back half of the head, I'm going to take the center section out. It's probably about a 3-in wide section. I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the one with the guard. And the blade is very, very sharp on these Feather Styling Razors. So, I can work with a very large, thick section of hair as long as I'm patient as I go through and use my razor motion. I'll cut that right at the top of the crown. I'll continue on taking section by section and pulling that into my original section. So, the first section was held straight up at the crown. Everything else is going to be pulled up into the crown as well. So, by pulling everything into the crown and having a stationary guide, that's actually going to give me an inconsistency in my elevation. So the first section's held at 90° straight up and then everything else gets held at a greater elevation. So that allows me to build up an increase of length very very quickly, but it also gives me an inconsistent weight distribution which will cause the shape to collapse. So I'll get a lot of fullness at the crown, but as it continues onto the perimeter, the shape is not going to be as round and as full. So, it's going to be fuller on top, less full on the sides, which is really iconic of the 70s type of look for this type of classic shag. So, we're going to continue section by section, pulling everything straight up into my original section and just being patient with the razor. I'm not trying to force and muscle the razor through the hair. I'm allowing the razor to do the work by just laying it against the sections of hair. So, it's the razor motion that's actually doing the cut. It's not me pressuring it against the hair. If I start pressuring it against the hair, I'll actually start pushing the hair and it's going to dull the blade fairly fairly quick. So, just the razor motion is what's cutting it. Pulling everything up to the center again until I run out of hair. Now, we're going to go through and take the center section, split that in half, use one half of the center as my guide for the left and one half for the right. Starting at the top again, right at the crown. Pulling everything straight up into the crown. Using my center section as my guide and cutting that straight across. Everything gets pulled up. The same sort of methodology I was doing in the back. And just using my guide and trying to be right on top of the guide as I cut that forward.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we got our last section right here on the left side. Pulling everything up and just following my guide and making sure everything blends where I've cut the original guide at the top. Checking out my layering on both sides. And I think we got that short enough. Now, we're going to go through and take a center section using the guide at my original crown section that I cut. Pull that straight up into the center of the head and then cut that forward. Now, when I cut this section, I cut it too long. I didn't feel like it was short enough. So, I've gone back on this and cut it about an inch shorter. So, it's important to kind of monitor your lengths and make sure that they're appropriate as you're working towards the finish of the haircut because once you get finished, you don't want to go back and do the whole haircut again. So, I'm going to try to check and make sure I cut it the right lengths as I'm going through step by step as opposed to trying to catch it at the very end. Now, we're going to continue working down towards the the perimeter of the head, pulling everything straight up into the center, following my original guide, and cutting that short. Now, when I'm layering this, it is quite a bit shorter than I would layer most hair for this particular length. It feels a little uncomfortable, but practicing on a doll head really helps you get over that fear of cutting it too short, which is something that's been instilled in us since beauty school, the fear of cutting everything too short. Now, we're going to continue to pull everything straight up into the middle of the head. There's my guide from underneath. And continue to cut everything that hangs over that off.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to work that forward until I run out of hair. After I've cut the other side, I'm going to go back and now I'm going to cut the perimeter shape.   Cutting the Perimeter Shape I'll take a horizontal section across the nape area. Hold that straight down. Wherever I want this length to be, that's what I'm going to cut straight across. Using the razor to give me just a little bit of texture on the ends to soften it up, but I'm still keeping this shape fairly blunt. You know, I'm trying to keep it with the original feeling of the 70s shag. And it was a blunt shape. It was a blunt cut. It wasn't real overly textured. I'm putting a little bit of texture in it to keep it a little more modern, but I want the shape to be really representative of what the original haircut was, which was overly layered on the top, very, very blunt but with a lot of movement to it. So, we're holding everything down. Once we get our perimeter length cut, then we shall move on to the front. One more little piece right there we go. Perfect.   The Bangs Now, we're going to section out our bang section. I'm going to take about half of that so I can start face framing our bangs here. I'm going to comb that first center section straight down with no tension at all. Cut that right at the bridge of the nose. I'll take a blunt little shape and then put a little bit of softening into it as I cut that shape across. So, it's giving me a blunt shape, but then that one razor stroke really softens it up a little bit, but I'm not trying to make the whole thing real super soft. I want to keep a solid shape but give it a little bit of airiness so that one long razor stroke helps lighten it up without it getting too piecey or too light. There we go. We've got that. I like the lengths there. Now, we're going to continue and see if anything else hangs over. And anything that hangs over, we're going to cut off. Holding that straight down just like I cut the original section. Anything that hangs over. Boom. There we go. Got that off. Now I'm going to go through and take a little bit in the center underneath and just lighten this piece up because I noticed that in a lot of the photos that I studied that he had a little bit of lightness right at the center where it kind of feathered back. So I'm taking a little bit of that bang out and making it lighter.   Blending Now, we're going to take a diagonal section. I'm going to pull everything on the side of the head straight forward. I'm not worried if this blends in with my perimeter length. If it does, great. If it doesn't, that's okay. We're going to keep it disconnected. But I want to make sure that I pull everything straight forward and cut that off. And this is where my feathers are coming from is because I'm pulling it all straight forward and blending it in with the bangs. If I don't blend it in with the bangs, it tends to not really have that feathery look to it. So, it has to blend with the bangs. After I've pulled everything forward, I'll comb everything straight down. And anything that gets revealed from the underneath hairline, I'll go through and make sure that that blends through. Pulling everything straight forward from the back and seeing if anything hangs over, which it doesn't look like there's a whole lot. So, we're just going to make sure that that all blends through. There we go. Perfect. I like that. Now, let's blow everything dry. Pull everything forward and blow it back. And then lean his head over and blow everything dry to get it nice and full and voluminous. Then use a vent brush just to polish everything off and get it all moving righteously.   Final Look And here's our end result. And I think that we're looking pretty good. We got the key elements of the shape and we got the proportions right. You know, the key things are over layering it more on top than you think you need to, pulling everything forward on the sides and cutting that nice and short and so that you have this, you know, disconnect right here at the top of the ear. And it makes everything feather back. And we got just the right amount of texture to it. And because of the way we layered it, it makes this top really full, but then collapses the weight on the sides. And by collapsing it, it forces the bottom to flip. So this is a very versatile shape. If you have someone that wants really short full layers on top and wants it kind of out of their face. Sometimes a study of the old classic shapes can really break you out of your creative box because this really will test you because if you're used to doing modern shapes, they're not anywhere close to this. This breaks a lot of modern rules by layering it so short and by pulling everything forward and feathering it all back. But I still think it looks pretty good. I think it's really cool. If I had hair, I'm telling you, this is what I'd be wearing. I think it looks great. Feathers are very, very important. You have to have the feathers if you're going to do a 70s hardcore shag. Anyway, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstyles and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.  

In this layered graduated bob with fringe tutorial, Russell Mayes explores a popular older women's hairstyle that consists of layers, graduation and more layers. This layered bob haircut starts with an inverted bob followed by graduation and then more layering on top. The techniques discussed are great for removing bulk from thick short hair. Finally, bangs are added followed by some blending. Short bob haircuts have always been popular but modifying them based on hair texture and designing bob hairstyles to complement client face shapes, hair texture and density is always a challenge. Watch this short layered inverted bob with bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Layered Graduated Bob with Fringe Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on how to add layering to graduation. How to keep the graduation from being too thick and overly mushroomy, how to keep it more modern. And it works really well on super thick hair or hair that's really stiff and needs a little bit of pop from some movement. We're going to show you how to add the graduation and where to add it. We're going to show you how to add layering, where to add it, and how to disconnect everything but still make it look like it's connected. So, let's get started.   Inverted Layers So, we're starting here in the nape. I took a center part all the way down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. That's my first flat section I'm working with in the back. I'm taking my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is the 6-in version. I like the point on these scissors. And the blade is very, very sharp, but the point is not overly bitey, so I don't have to worry about poking myself if I'm doing a lot of um point cutting. Here, we're going to take a center section, and I'm going to determine if I want graduation or if I want layering. This first section, I'm actually going to invert the layering a little bit. So, it's going to be a little shorter at the occipital bone and then a little longer towards the hairline. So while this looks like it could be graduation based upon the head shape, it's actually layered quite a bit because it's shorter at the top of the section and longer at the bottom. So, by layering this first section, especially on these graduated type of shapes, this can make the shape instantly start getting very, very full and very bulky. Now, if I have someone with thinner hair, then that's definitely what I want. But on someone with thick hair or where it's very stiff and doesn't move, by going through and layering this first section, it helps it lay down a little bit closer against the head so I don't build up so much volume. I started in the center. I determined what type of layering I wanted and now I'm walking my guide towards the left and then towards the right. So the way I do that is I take the center as my guide, determine what my length is, and then add the next section to the left, a parallel section. I comb those two sections into the center and cut. And then I remove the previously cut section. And my new guide is the guide for the next section as I walk all the way over to the left. And now I'm going all the way over to the right. So it's just continuing to take the same length in the center and work that towards each side. I want to try to maintain as even of a balance as I can between both sides. Now, here you see me, I'm just going through and just cleaning it up, making sure it's nice and clean. After I finish that, I'll move on to the next section.   Graduation The next section is going up to two flat sections of the head and then to the top of the ear. Now, here you'll see the underneath completely drops out. And I'm going to completely ignore that guide and create a new guide. This is where the graduation of the haircut really starts to happen. So, whatever angle of graduation I create, you can see here which is fairly steep, that's going to be what the visual representation of my graduation is going to be. And you can see it's already, even though it's sitting on top of a layered section underneath, it still has that typical classic graduated shape, even though it's less voluminous because the underneath hair has been layered. I'll continue to just walk my guide from the center over to the right. And I'll check each time to make sure I'm building up a consistent flow of graduation from the center out. Try to maintain the same levels of elevation that I was going through and trying to maintain cutting directly on top of my previously cut guide as I start to work around the sides.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of any future Jatai Academy content.   Continuing to take my vertical sections as I walk around to the head. And here is a really good angle to see what type of graduation that I'm putting into it. And I'm just continuing to work this around. This is what you would consider classic round graduation because the shape is round vertically and horizontally. That looks pretty good. So now we're going to continue on to the next two flats up into the top of the crown. We're going to move that around to the front of the hairline at the bottom of the recession.   Layering Now, this section, you can see where my graduation is starting to fall out of my fingers. And then I'm going about a finger length further and cutting that straight up and down. So, by cutting that section straight up and down and leaving it a little longer, it really kind of exaggerates the graduated shape, but it doesn't add volume to it like if I was to continue to graduate this shape. So by pulling it up and cutting it straight up and down, I'm actually layering this top section. So I have layering for the first nape section. I graduate to center right at the curve of the head at the occipital bone and above to the drop crown. Now from the drop crown above, I'm pulling that up and layering it again. So I have layer, graduation and layer. So, it seems counterintuitive that I would want a graduated shape that has more layering in it than it has graduation. But because we put that graduation right in the center and sandwiched between those two layered sections, it really gives me a nice smooth graduated shape, but without that stiffness and that bulkiness that comes from that kind of brutalist aesthetic that Sassoon had back in the 70s that on certain types of hair, it was just very very stiff and had no movement to it. And if you didn't style it properly, it just looks completely out of sorts. By having this layering in it, it lightens it up and it loosens it up and gives it a lot more free flow. Here we've done both sides. And I think that that looks pretty good. It really collapses the nape there quite well and still gives me that nice graduated shape. Now we're going to go through and start working on the top.   Top Section I'm going to take a center section from the back all the way to the front. I'm going to pull the crown up. I'm going to take that guide that I had cut underneath from my layering section. And now I'm going to continue vertically layering this at 90° all the way from the back into the front. This is just going to remove a lot of excess length that I don't need. I'll hold this straight up at 90 from each section of the head as I'm working from back to front. Now, this shape gives me a lot of versatility and a lot of variations that I can layer into this and add into this shape because everything is kind of disconnected and I'm not building up this architecturally over structured shape that doesn't allow for any kind of variation. This shape, because there's so much disconnection in it, gives me that option. Now, instead of taking sub-sections and holding everything up into the center where my layering guide was initially, I'm going to take the entire right side of this head because there's no hair from the underneath. I'm going to pull everything straight up into the center and cut that.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to pull everything over into the center until I completely run out of hair. Once I finish my layering here on the top, I'm going to go through and anything that hangs over from this top layering hangs over the underneath section that I've already cut. I'm going to go through and double check here and make sure that it doesn't hang over. So, I'm just going to clean this up. There's a little bit of hair that hangs over. So, I'm just going to go through and vertically section like I did my layering underneath in the third section that I took. And make sure nothing hangs over that so we have a cleaner shape. I could have done this first and then layered it, but I find that I would end up taking more time cutting the hair on top that I end up cutting shorter anyway. So, this way I'll end up cutting less hair, making sure it blends.   The Fringe Now, we're going to go through and take our bang section. We're going to take a pretty good section to the corner of the hairline right there at the recession. And then I'm going to subsection that into a small little section that goes right to the corner of the eye on each side. This is the hair that's going to hang right in the center of the face. Going to create a straight bang here, but curtain bangs or side swept bangs work well too. I'm going to hold that down and cut that to where it hits right at the center of the eye. This is a very popular aesthetic in Japan where it's like right at the most irritating length at the eyeball. Now I'm going to hold this section up and then layer that section just to bevel that edge right there around the face a little bit. So it keeps it blunt but it bevels that edge so it softens it up just a little bit but still maintains that real solid shape. Now we're going to take the rest of the section, hold it down, and I'm going to determine the length that I'm going to right there at the jaw. Cut a little bit right there so I have a guide, and then I can match that on the other side. So, I'll figure out where it is on the other side. Make sure I'll double check and then go through and cut it shorter than the other side. Oh well, we'll figure it out.   Blending Now, I'm going to comb this forward, take the center out of it, and then connect the guides that I've created. I've got the shorter guide in the center that I've created going to that longer guide right at the edge. And that's going to give me a nice really steep line that's going to brush that bang out of the face a little bit. Now, we're going to go through and take a real vertical section here, right above the ear. Hold that down. And I'm going to look at where my little graduated short length bob was starting in the back. Hold this section straight down and then visualize where I want that to go. Now, this is the part here that can really make the shape a little more conservative or a little bit more edgy and soft. I'm going for a little more blunt of a shape, but you could certainly, you know, go through and make sure that this is a lot longer and piecier and a little bit more um, you know, Korean in its aesthetic, I think. So, now we're going to take the next section down, comb that straight down, point cut that through to make sure that my edge is soft right through there, so I have a little bit more flow And I'm not being real precise with this section. I'm allowing the shape to have some movement to it and some softness and some flow to it. Everything has been real structured in this with blunt lines that I've cut. So right here around the edge where I want a little bit more exaggerated movement, I'm going to go through and soften that up by point cutting it. Now we take our last section and you see that little corner that just hangs out there between the back and into the sides and I'll cut that through so we make sure we have a nice smooth blend from our graduation to the back into the sides.   Texturing and Removing Weight Now I'm going to take my Feather Styling Razor and I have the pink version. And then I'm going to add the Texturizing Blade. So this blade has little guards that cover every other section of the blade so that as I run this across the hair, it doesn't cut everything straight across. It gives me little channels so I can add some texture to it and remove a little bit of weight. You may not need to do this part if working on fine hair. So I make this softer without necessarily going through and adding deep channels to it like I would if I was to hold this section vertically and cut into it with my regular styling blade. So, after I finish doing some sculpture cutting in the back, I'm going to take each section horizontally and just add a little bit of texture to it just to create some more internal variation and to give me a little bit more softening and some interest to it. Now, depending upon the hair, I may do a little bit more, I may do a little bit less. But because I've cut this shape very very blunt except for that little bit right in front of the ear. This gives me a still solid shape but softens it up internally and gives me a little bit more visual interest. I'm really liking the texture that we have there. I think that looks pretty good. Now we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it. I'm going to use my Du-Boa High-Tech Brush to polish everything off and then a little bit of styling wax after. You can also use a round brush to style it.   Final Look Well, here is our end result. And I think that we got a really, really nice shape. I think that by going through putting our layering first, our graduation second, then layering on top, it really gives us a nice graduated shape without it being too mushroomy or too stiff or without it looking like, you know, grandma's graduation. This haircut doesn't have to look like a women over 60s haircut. It keeps it more modern. And and let's face it, most modern haircuts have a lot more texture to it than the the stuff from the 60s and 70s that were just overly stiff. So, I think that this works really really well. I like this kind of heavy bang that hits right in the eye and kind of blends into the side. And I think we've got just the right amount of texture to where the bottom lays flat, but we still have a nice little pop here for our graduation. It kind of makes it look like a shaggy bob. This kind of bob works well on straight hair, but can be adapted to wavy hair or curly hair. You can also add a pop of hair color or highlights for additional points of interest. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.

In this invisible hair layers tutorial (aka ghost layers), we review a technique to reduce broomy hair when creating a bob but still maintain natural texture. This layers haircut is meant to addresses thicker hair types as opposed to fine hair in order to reduce bulk and create movement. For styling a blow dryer and brush are used but you can also air dry for a more natural look. For a stick straight style, a flat iron can also be used. No styling products are necessary. We love this technique in the salon as it's useful and applicable to everyday situations when creating this desired bob style. Watch this invisible layer haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    Invisible Hair Layers Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study of invisible layers. Interior layers will help us de-broom and de-mushroom our bob. We want a sleek, cool, modern bob. So, I'm going to show you two ways of adding invisible internal layers that can help collapse the shape without destroying the overall appearance of a one-length bob. There's two ways I'm going to show you. One removes a lot of hair, one removes less hair, but they both go a long way towards controlling the amount of weight that's built up in a bob. So, let's get started. So, we're going to start with our bob. We're going to take a natural or center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid on each side. That's going to give us our foundational flat section that we're going to build our whole shape off of. Now, a lot of times when we're doing a bob, if the person has very, very thick hair, you can end up with this broomy, overly bulky looking bob that doesn't have any kind of movement to it and just looks solid and stiff and kind of stuffy and dated.   Establishing the One Length Structure Now, we're going to start in the center section. I'm going to pin the other hair out of the way and I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor. The Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to use the Standard Blade. And this gives me the most protection and allows me to go through and cut my shape and cut it real blunt without fear of cutting myself or the client. Comb everything straight down and just start working on my bob shape. I'm going to go straight across here on the bottom. I'm going to lay my blade directly at the length that I want and then very gently slightly going up and down with my razor stroke. Keeping this very very tight, very small razor stroke so I can build up as much length. I'm sorry, as much one length structure as I can get. I don't want a whole lot of movement in this. I want to keep this as blunt and as solid as possible. Going through and using a razor by cutting my one length is the first step in removing some of that overly bulky broom shape. Because even though I'm cutting this one length, it's giving me a little bit of variation, the overall length of my shape. So, it doesn't have a tendency to stack nearly as much and look as stiff. It gives it a little bit of movement. The next section, we're going to comb everything straight down. There's our guide length. Same short abrupt razor stroke just to cut everything one length. Comb that down. Look at it. That's looking pretty good. Now we're going to come back. Same thing on the opposite side. I'm combing everything as clean from the root all the way down as I can get it. There's my line, my guide. Cut that straight. Same razor stroke through. Last piece here. If I want to keep this as blunt as possible after I go through and do the razor, I can go through with my scissor and very gently just cut off any extra long little strings that hang off. And this will give me an overall blunter appearance but still have the textural advantage of using my razor so that it doesn't get overtly bulky. And I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6 inch. It's a good blunt sharp clean cutting scissor. One of my favorites. Now I'm going to go through and take my next section straight to the center of the ear. Same angle that I was taking from underneath. Combing everything clean from the root all the way down to the ends. As even a tension as I can apply. Plant my fingers. There's my line from underneath. Cut that blunt across.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Comb everything straight down. There's my line from underneath. Cut that across. Now, when I'm going through and using a razor to cut everything one length and blunt, I have to be mindful. So, I want to take a section that's thin enough that I can easily cut through it without a whole lot of resistance, but not so thin that I can't continue to build upon my line. There sometimes I can take a section too thin that I can't really build any kind of structure off of that. Lay the comb against the head where it is flat. That's going to determine the size of my section. I will follow the same angle underneath. This section here should take me, if I'm consistent, to the top of the ear. Comb from the root all the way through to the ends. There's my guide length and very gently cut exactly the same line. Once I cut my... once I have my razor cut done, I will go through again with my scissors and just trace the line that's already there. Very very little hair is cut off. And you may think that that doesn't make a difference, but it makes a huge difference in the appearance of everything being blunt. Even though I'm taking off just whispers, dustings of hair, it will make a difference in the way that it lays and the way that it flows. So from here, I'm going to go through, take a vertical section. I'm going to comb this straight out from the head towards me. After some of my perimeter shape drops out, I'm going to go through and cut this shape straight up and down and actually layer the underneath and a square shape. So now when I check this, I want this to be straight up and down. So when I comb this out, you can see it's straight up and down. The reason I'm doing this straight up and down is so it's anti- head shape. The head shape is actually curving. So by me going through and cutting it straight up and down, it's actually cutting the center shorter, the top is longer, and the underneath is longer. So now when this falls, it collapses the entire shape. I'll take a parallel section straight to that. I'm gonna comb these two sections together. There is my guide from underneath. Cut that straight up and down. Last section here. Now, I will not go past the mastoid because this hair here hangs and creates my perimeter shape here behind the ear where I'll need that length. I'll remove the center section. So, I have section two and section three. Straight up and down. Comb these two sections together. There's my line, my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Now, when this falls and everything's combed, it ends up being anti-head shaped layer in the middle and hang straight down. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, my next section I've taken is parallel to the section that I had underneath. And we're going to go through and follow our same bob methodology that we were doing before. We're going to take a center section. I'm going to comb everything straight down. There's my guide. I'm going to cut everything one length at my guide.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Only two more sections left. We're going to take parallel, work that around. When the hair starts to lose moisture, I want to make sure that I use some Jatai Blade Glide just to keep everything moist, keep everything conditioned, keep the cuticle closed, and make it easy for my razor to glide through the hair and get a clean cut. After I finish the second section on the side, if I feel that I'm building too much bulk up here, I'm gonna layer it internally, but I'm going to do it a different way because in the back of the head, I had this much head space and curve to cut around. So, anti-head shape layering is going to help that collapse a lot and give me a nice thin kind of perimeter shape. But on the side if I do that, it's not really as curved as much on the underneath. So, it's not going to have the same effect.   Vertical Sectioning So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section from just behind the ear to right in the front. I'm going to pull everything in this section straight up in the air. Comb that straight up. Once my perimeter shape starts to fall out, take some of that weight off. Now, when this falls, it's going to fall at a different layer than my perimeter shape. I can layer it as much as I feel is necessary according to how thick that person's hair is. Now, when I'm going and working on my last section, I want to evenly distribute everything off of the parting so that when I comb it down, I have the greatest shot of cutting it and its natural fall. If I start pulling hair out of the way that it falls naturally when I blow it dry, I'm going to see longer stringier pieces hanging over and I'll have to clean those up. And that's okay. Sometimes you have to do that. Come here. Let's look straight ahead. Everything's straight down. Check our lengths. Everything's looking pretty good. So, now let's go through and blow it dry and see what we got.   Invisible Layers Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. We got a good solid bob shape here. Uh, I might have you a little longer on one side than the other, but that's okay. She didn't pay for this haircut, so we're not worrying. We're just practicing. And I think that the internal layering, the layers underneath hair that we put in it was really what this hair needed to keep it in a sleek bob and not have that overly thick, bulky broom looking bob that looks really dated. Now vertical type of internal invisible layering will take out more bulk and make it more sleek than if you did horizontal like we did on the side. So play with each different types of technique because with great power comes great responsibility. So start small, baby step your way into the technique until you got a feel for it and then you can really go to town with it and get the effects that you want, especially on thicker hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

Today we have a fun treat! As Halloween approaches it's only fitting we do a haircut that could potentially be a costume. In this tutorial we look at the Star Trek Mr. Spock haircut. While Star Trek had several main characters including those played by William Shatner, George Takei and Nichelle Nichols, Leonard Nimoy was one of the biggest. Playing Mr. Spock he had a haircut characterized by straight bangs and pointed sideburns. The Spock haircut name has stuck but elements of this style have continued to show up in contemporary styles like the emo and edgar haircut.  Watch this Spock hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Spock Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today I'm going to be sharing with you the most versatile haircut in the entire universe, the Mr. Spock. Now, and I know what you're saying. You're saying that is not the most versatile. But hear me out. I'll show you how to do the haircut and then I'll explain why it is the most versatile. Let's get started.   Scissor Over Comb So, my first section, I'm going to start here in the nape. I'm gonna go through and taper that in a little bit tighter and fit that in a little cleaner with some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. I tend to like a long, skinny, pointy, sharp blade when I'm doing my scissor over comb. I feel that it gives me a little bit more a better ability to get more detailed and fit everything in close like I want. A fatter blade I can't get as tight in. So, a skinnier blade I like better. So now I'm going to comb this a little bit to the side just so when I bring this up and out I can get a little bit more tension on it. If I comb everything straight down and I come up some types of hair I don't get as clean of a cut. So by combing it a little bit to the side when I pick it up I get a little bit more tension and can get a little bit cleaner scissor over comb. I'll start real close here at the bottom and then just visualize in my mind's eye what type of tapering that I want as I go up and out. Then I'll comb everything down and say, "Okay, I like those lengths. Now let's go through and clean that up." So at first I did a crude shape. So now I'm going to go through and start refining my shape. So, how do I refine my shape? As I go through and I try to trace the previously cut line that was already there. So, I'll go through and do that again. On wet hair, it's going to be a little bit harder to see than if I was to do this on dry hair. The more times that I pass and the more scissor strokes that I apply, potentially the cleaner the cut can be. After I get the center like I want, then I'm going to take a step over to the right. Now I have a guide. The guide is in the center. The first section I didn't have a guide. I was just using the force to cut everything like I want. Now that I have a guide, I'll use that center section as the guide length. And then anything that hangs over off to the side, I will cut a little bit shorter. I want to make sure I don't go through and cut this section shorter or less consistent than I cut in the middle. So, I'm going to take a little bit more time as I start to refine that in. Now, I'm going to go through and do the next section. And I'll continue to work this over all the way to the ear until I run out of hair. I'll start with a crude cut and then fine-tune my crude shape and fine-tune and fine-tune until I get it as smooth as I can see. Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Layering And once I got that dialed in to where I feel that that's good enough while it's wet and I can refine it more when it's dry. Once we reach this point, we're going to start working on our layering now. A center part right down the middle all the way into the nape. Okay. Now, from here, I'm taking this and I'm going to go through and head shape layer this all the way into the back. Since I did my Bettie Page bangs on this model before, I'm going to use that as my guide. But you don't have to have that, I'm just going to go through and take a flat section of head. And what I mean by that is the section against the head is flat. So that's a flat section. I pull that straight up. Oops. Cut that straight across. Remove a little piece. Take a small piece as my guide. Take my next flat section. Hold that up 90° from the head shape where that section is flat. There's my guide. And cut the head shape into it. Tilt the head down to make it more comfortable. A small piece where it's flat. Hold that straight up. There is my guide length. And cut that. Oops. Take a small piece as my guide. My next little flat section. Now, if I have a model who has a flat-ish head, then I understand what the optimal head shape is. So, I will go through and mimic what that would be as I work back. After I finish that, I will go through and separate that in half and pivoting from the crown. I will now blend this length into my tapered length small piece as my guide. So I have the center section as my guide and also the length I'm cutting to. Cut that down and through my next section. Hold into the center of both of those two sections. Pin that out of the way. And there we go. And that's looking pretty good. I will go through remove my center section and then pivot adding my next section. So I have my second section, my third section. I will go through and start at the top. Take a small piece from the inside as my guide. Hold that straight up off the head shape. Cut that down and through my next little flat piece. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that through and work that all the way into my taper. And now at this point I no longer pivot. Once I get to the ear I will take a parallel section. Small piece is my guide from the middle parting and from the previously cut parting. There's my guide. Cut that through. Small piece as my guide. There's my guide from underneath. Blend that into my tapering. And that's looking pretty good as we go through there. Now I will take the parallel section, use that as my guide, and continue to take parallel sections, working forward until I run out of hair. Starting at the top, there's my guide length from underneath. Small piece as my guide. Take my next section. There we go. Small piece as my guide. Working that down and through into my previously cut guide. So, I will cut it from the top down and then cut it from the bottom up just as a cross check or as an opposite check to make sure that my line blends in nice and smooth. And I have a nice round beveled shape. Remove the previously cut guide. And then I have my last cut piece parallel.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Creating the Spock Point on the Sides Small piece as my guide. Make sure I have enough of my guide from the previously cut section. There we go. Small piece as my guide. Basically, the shape that I'm cutting is a round tapered shape. So, it's going to be a little bit longer in the top and it's going to taper down as it gets to the edges and around the hairline. It's going to taper down really tight in the back and then on the sides, I'm not going to taper that in. I want to keep that kind of solid-ish so I can really exaggerate that little Spock point. Since my mannequin head doesn't have a whole lot of sideburn, I am going to go through and cut a little bit of that in. So, I'll comb this down. Determine where I want it to hit, which is going to be about half of the ear. Start there. Get my length cut in. After I get my length cut in, I'll go through, start cutting some of this hair off to reveal the peak over the ear. We want to make sure that his pointy ears are revealed. So, I'm taking it from the back, being gentle over the ear, just letting everything fall in its natural fall, and just fine-tuning that shape in from my taper in the back up and over the ear. And I'm going to take my time. I'm not going to try to rush this. This is the very, very important part of this particular cut. If I had decided to modify this and just taper the whole thing in on the side, that's okay. I don't have to spend so much time making sure that my little point is so strong here in the front. But on this particular head of hair that I'm working on, I need to make sure that that's really dialed in. So, I'm taking my time just combing everything down and point cutting my shape in.   The Front Straight Line All right, after we've got our sides dialed in, now let's go through and work on our front. Now, we did some Bettie Page bangs earlier, and this was my model for that. So, they already have the short bang, but Mr. Spock doesn't have Bettie Page bangs. So, I'm instead of curving this, I'm going to take my short piece and try to blend that across so it's a straighter line. Maybe not as exaggerated of a curve. So, we'll start whittling that down a little bit in the middle to cut some of that curve off.   Fine-Tuning All right, here is our finish after we've blown everything dry. And I think we're looking pretty solid here. I do need to go through and clean some things up, though. So, I want to go through and the first thing I want to focus on is making sure everything in the back here is glassy, smooth, and seamless in its tapering. So, I'm going to go through with my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. This is the perfect blending scissor. It removes enough hair that when I need to remove weight, it distributes the weight perfectly, but also if I just want to retrace what's already there and make sure everything blends, it's perfect for that. So, that's what we're going to start with. I'm going to start right in the center. And all I'm going to do is I'm going to put the straight blade on the bottom. All I'm going to do is go through and retrace what's already there. I'm not trying to cut more hair off. I'm just trying to hit the very tips and make sure everything blends glassy smooth by just hitting the tips of the hair. And that's already making that smoother. So, just retracing what's already there as I work from the nape all the way up into the crown here around the front. Just comb everything down in its natural fall the way it's going to live. And then just take my time and fine-tune this line around the front.   The Versatility of Spock Hair The reason that I say that this is the most versatile haircut in the entire universe is that it's fundamentally a classic shape that has been modified into so many different ways. If you take this even shorter and you cut the sideburns off, you have a Caesar. If I let the top get, you know, longer and I take the sides and the back and taper that really, really short, then I have kind of the lad haircut that's very very popular in Britain. If I let the top and the sides get a little bit longer and have it kind of brushed over, then I end up with a more of a mod kind of bull cut, a Bieber-ish type of shape. If I let the top get longer and I take the sides and the back really, really short and perm the top, it looks like a modern Edgar that's very, very popular right now. So, the basics of this shape make it the most versatile haircut that you can do on any of your masculine clients. tapering it, rounding the shape, and just keeping your proportions varied and the textures varied, and you can do a lot of different types of haircuts. If you only knew this one haircut, you could modify it to fit a large proportion of the masculine clientele that's available today. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

Choppy short layered hair is popular hairstyle among older women but it can be modernized for younger looks. Short layered haircuts are not necessarily easy to do. Choppy layers can tend to look lumpy if done improperly and can really stand out if done on thick hair. Short choppy haircuts are a type of layered bob that's textured. While not a pixie cut, they are short hairstyles that have a lot of style and can compliment the face nicely. Watch this short choppy layered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Choppy Short Layered Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. You've seen a choppy bob. Well, we're going to do some chop graduation today. Chop graduation is a little more difficult because you have to worry about the graduation starting to look lumpy. And lumpy graduation always looks bad. So, we have to apply the right amount of texture in the right way. Section it so that we can avoid that. We're going to show you how to do all that as we get started and I'm going to blow it dry without using my hands at all. Only the power of the blow dryer.   Back of the Head So, let's get started here in the nape. We're going to take a section across and split the top from the bottom. Then, in the center, we're going to take a diagonal section. And I'm going to hold my scissors out behind on top of my fingers and just go through and cut whatever angle of graduation that I want. Using that as my guide, I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor, which is a razor without a guard. It gives me the most control and has the sharpest blade. This is the limited edition white. And so get them while you can. So I'll start and follow the guide that I did in the center with the scissor. And I'm going to alternate scissor and then razor. So this section here, I'm pulling out the same angle of elevation, following the same angle of graduation. And I'm gonna go through and just chop that line in with my scissors to get my graduation into it. Now, I'm not trying to be real precise with this. Each section that I take, I'm going to alternate. So, this section, I'm going to follow the guide and use my razor to go through and chop the section. So, each section is going to fluctuate between more texture and softness and more texture and structure. This is my Tokyo Scissor from Jatai. It is the longest blade I have at 6 inches. It has a nice point. It's very sharp. And I like the longer blade for doing this technique because on the opposite side, it makes it much easier to cut on top of my fingers like I'm doing now. Here, I'm going through and using my Feather Plier Razor to go through and put my chop graduation in. Now, typical, you know, school of thought is that if I do this, it's going to be really, really lumpy and look really, really bad. But because I'm taking very, very thin sections and I'm elevating it at a higher level of graduation, it makes a much smoother blend. So, I can get that texture from chopping into it without it being very, very lumpy. Now, on the other side, you can see why I like a longer scissor. It makes it so much easier to cut on top of my fingers to make my choppy graduation blend at the same angles. And that I'm cutting from the top down. I'll do the razor exactly the same on the other side, just keeping my choppiness as even and as consistent as possible. After I finish the underneath, we're going to move on to the top of the head. I'm going to start at the same angle for my partings and I'm going to try to elevate at the exact same angle that I did underneath using my razor following the same method of keeping a short little choppy stroke so I can start to build the weight of the graduation without too much weight that I start to create lumpiness here. Going in with my Jatai Tokyo Scissor and going through and putting a little choppy graduation into it as I work from top down. And each section that I cut, I want to comb it and see how the weight distribution is and make sure that my graduation is consistent because this is purely a visual type of haircut. Though I'm sectioning it technically and I'm elevating it technically, my cut is purely visual. So, I have to check it a lot along the way to make sure that I can get both sides even and that I get a consistent type of graduation because it's real easy to get this really really inconsistent and then it starts to look bad.   Sides of the Head Working from the back of the head into the side of the head and I will just follow and build each section coming from the back into the sides. Now, you'll notice that when you're doing short graduation like this, it's going to start to stack up in the nape. And then as I get to the edges around the ears, it's going to start to build up a little bit more weight. So, that's where I'm getting that bob shape from on the sides. Following through, not trying to be real precise, just trying to be real consistent. And this is one of those haircuts you just have to build it and look at it each step of the way.   Give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Still alternating between the razor and the straight scissor just to get a variation in my texture. When I did this type of shape with a bob, it's a lot easier because you don't have to worry about the weight distribution and you don't have to worry about the blend as much because when you're dealing with one length, once you get that shape in on the bottom, you don't have to worry about seeing the choppiness of it other than it flicking out the separation on the bottom. So here, just being patient, working from back to front and trying to build my shape visually. If I need to fine-tune it, I'll fine-tune it. Like that little piece, I thought maybe it was a little heavy, but we'll see. I may fine-tune that a little bit more as we go. Pulling out. Following my guide from underneath. Keeping my scissor and my razor stroke as consistent as possible. There we go. And I like where that's starting to hit on the jawline. Now, from here, I got my last section. I'll take a little bit of the previously cut hair as my guide as I start to work into the sides. I want to make sure that as I start to apply each new cut that I'm using the guide and not recutting into the guide. That's a difficult thing. So, it's okay to not be exactly on top of your guide as you're working this shape. That's why every time I finish a section, I want to comb it and see how it fits. Now, we're going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to make sure that the blade of my razor slides through the hair a lot easier and gives me a very, very consistent result. And I'll use it mostly when I'm doing internal texturing with the razor.   Removing Weight And I'm going to go through, pull out each section, and with my Feather Plier Razor, just go through and as delicately as possible, go through and channel cut to remove some of the weight because these mannequin heads have a lot of weight. I want to maintain that corner in the front. That's why I keep pulling that out and showing that corner. I don't really texturize that much or remove that much weight. I want to keep that solid. Here's a good angle to see how I'm trying to apply this texturizing very very finely and judiciously so I can remove weight more than creating separation. You'll notice that I tend to close the blade in between taking sections and that just gives me a little extra protection and make sure that I'm respecting the blade so I don't cut myself. And just continue to work up until I run out of hair.   Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   And here, I'll just continue to visually remove as much weight as I feel needs to, to help that hair kind of lay down and not get too puffy and bell-like in its shape. I think that when it gets too bell-like, it tends to look a little dated, even though this haircut has a lot of modern texture to it.   Blowdrying Now, when I go to blow this dry, I first started just using the blow dryer to go through and start getting some aeration in it and getting some volume to it. And I think it started to look really good. So, I just used the blow dryer and that's all. I didn't use my fingers to stretch it out. I didn't do anything other than on the bangs. I kind of blew the bangs down with a little bit of a brush to make sure that they're smooth. But everything else is just using that blow dryer to get volume and allow the hair to naturally separate and get the texture that I've built into it by applying the structure of the haircut. Then just a little finger styling to make sure that everything pops and it shows the texture like we want and that I don't have anything that I need to fine-tune.   Final Look All right, here's our end result. And I think that uh I think that that looks pretty good for not using my hands and it blowing it dry and just letting the blow dryer do the work. And I think it really shows off, you know, kind of this choppy graduation cuz the fear you got to get over is doing a graduation that looks lumpy. I want it choppy and piecy and have a lot of separation, but I don't want to look lumpy and poorly done. That's going to come from how we angle our fingers and how we consistently apply our scissor layer with our razor layer and then fine-tuning it at the end. And I think we look pretty good. I think this is a nice interesting way to get some texture and a little more fullness and have a little bit more pizzazz to it, so to speak. Anyway, check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Short choppy hairstyles are haircuts women gravitate to when it comes to short hair. While choppy short layers are popular with women over 50, they can be modernized for younger looks.   

The Vidal Sassoon 5 point haircut is one of the most iconic haircuts of the 60s and 70s. Alongside the Vidal styles he created for Grace Coddington and Nancy Kwan, the 5 point cut is often synonymous with the Mary Quant haircut. Professional hairdressing at the time was dominated by Sassoon cuts and Vidal made a statement in the fashion industry with his iconic cuts, salons and books. Today we can re-imagine Vidal Sassoon haircuts in a lighter, softer way. With the five point haircut, we can still maintain the geometric haircut shape but give it a modern look.  Watch this Sassoon 5 point haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut:     Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to do a challenge. It's a challenge for me to do this iconic Sassoon five-point haircut that was so... it really is what kickstarted Sassoon's career and really created the whole aesthetic of the late 60s and early 70s with this mod look. It's real solid with a beveled bang, two points on the side, three points in the back, but we're going to modernize it and do it with a razor. It's a challenging haircut, but we're going to show you how to soften it, give it a lot more versatility, and add a lot more texture to it if you want. So, let's get started.   Graduating the Back I'm going to start here with a horizontal section from the crown to the top of the ears. And then we're going to take a vertical section right down the middle. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so there is no protection on this. So, you needs to be extra careful. And it is extremely sharp, but it also gives me the most control over cutting a section of hair. And I'm going to go through and graduate this section in the back. Take a parallel section to that and continue to work all the way over to one side by walking my guide. So, I'm going to pull it out. I'm going to visualize what length of the top of the graduation is going to be, where it hits the ear. So, I'm kind of visualizing where that top of the parting section is, and I want to kind of see where that's going to hit the ear. And then I'm tapering it down, graduating it down shorter around the nape. As I cut the center section, that's my guide. And then I start to walk my sections all the way over to the left. So, I'll take the next section, add it to the previously cut section. So, I will remove the previously cut section, and then add to that. So, here I'm taking my next section, and I'm removing all the other hair. So, I only have the previously cut section and the section that I'm cutting. Holding that straight out in the center of both of those sections and cutting from long to short. Longer at the top, shorter in the nape. And I'm leaving a little bit of extra length there at the nape so that I can make sure I can get my points very defined. Working all the way over to the side. Now I'm getting in right behind the ear. And I'm just following the same guide that I started in the center back. Walking that all the way over to the ear. I can change the angle of graduation that I want. If I want it to stack up a little bit more, if I want it to be a little bit more even like this. It's all dependent upon the angle of graduation that I create. And here's the end result on the left side. We're going to take our center guide and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Once I finish that, I'll take my next horizontal section, which is going to be the center of the recession all the way right back to the crown. Take a vertical section in the center and then follow that same angle of graduation that I was doing underneath up and out. So I'm basically graduating and stacking the whole back so that I get a nice pleasing round head shape in the back. So by leaving this longer in the crown, it's actually going to bevel the shape and make it look much more pleasing in the crown. If I tend to change the angle here and go straight up, it tends to make the back of the head look flat. So here I'm doing exactly what I was doing underneath. Taking my previous guide as I'm walking that all the way around to the side and then blending that in with the hair that was cut underneath. Once I get to the quarter part here, I'll start to pivot my angle and the parting is changing. So no longer is it just straight up and down, but it's actually pivoting and leaving a little bit more length in the front. So each section I take is a diagonal pie section off of that hairline. I'm sorry, off of that parting right at the quarter part using the guide that I had created originally from the back. Working that longer as I get around the front. So I'm almost getting like a little bob shape around the front. Now, it's not going to be a bob shape in the end because I am going to cut it out over the ears, but this certainly gives me and saves enough length around the front so that I can work everything in nice and smooth. Then from here, after I got that shaped like I want, do the same thing on the other side.   Building Weight on Top Now, I'll take my next horizontal section and I'll take this all the way around the head. And from here, I'm no longer going to cut vertically. I'm going to hold each section horizontally out. So, by holding each section horizontally off the peak curvature of the head, I start to build up a little bit more weight on the top of the head. So, a vertical section is going to be less solid than if I take a horizontal section. So, I want it less solid underneath. So, I take vertical sections. More solid on the top. So, I reserve some length. I take horizontal sections. And then I'll just continue to work that from the center of the back all the way around into the sides and to the front. Now, this blade is very, very sharp as all the Feather blades are. But since this doesn't have a guard, I have to be a little extra mindful so that I don't end up cutting myself. But the benefit of this is that since it doesn't have a guard, it's very easy to get the exact cut line that I want. And that's the beauty of the Plier Razor is that it gives you the most control and the cleanest cut of any of the razors that I have. Now, I'm going to continue to work this section all the way up into the center of the head. So, I'm just going to keep following the same type of methodology that I was working before. That got a little bit long. So, we're going to take a little bit more off. And I'll continue to work this until I end up with all the hair on the top being cut into the side lengths.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, detailing this a little bit to make sure I get the line as clean as I want. I can just pinch a little piece of hair off and then lay the razor right on top of it. And that pinching gives me the tension and allows me to get a nice clean cut. So, I'll work this all the way up into the center of the head. The same thing I was doing before. That curvature of the head shows me where the parietal ridge is. That's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. So, I get a nice stack of graduation and just following the previously cut guide. Now, this haircut is going to require a tremendous amount of detailing, especially as I'm getting that beveling around the front, but I'll show you how to do that. So, you can see certain stages of this haircut where you think, okay, well, that looks pretty good just like that. So, you can stop there. You don't have to go through and bevel this. There's a lot of options and a lot of versatility with this type of haircut.   Beveling the Front So, I'll take a section around the front of the head from the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear. I'll hold everything straight down. Start cutting where I want my bevel line to be around the front. So, the bangs in the center, that's where I'm going to start and then clean that up. Now, you'll see here I'll lay the hair on my finger and then just use the blade to scrape anything off that doesn't quite fit and isn't as clean as I want. There we go. Just pinching that up and getting that nice and clean. There we go. I like that length there. Now, we're going to continue to work that into the sides into the point right there in front of the ear. So, I'll pick a guide from the center and then I'll angle my fingers to match the angle of my face framing and that beveling around the front. And then I will cut that line into it. And then I'll start with a nice even cut. Try to get it as clean as I can and then look at it and then fine-tune it as I need to. Like right here, there's something that doesn't match. So, I'm going to pull that forward. Cut a little bit of that off. Make sure that I take my time and fitting everything in because this haircut is going to show every fault and flaw that you have. And so, you have to take your time to get it to fit just right. And right there, that was good. That makes everything flow right from the center of the bangs into the corner right there where my point is in front of the ear. Now I'm combing everything forward like a little bowl cut. Take my section from underneath as my guide and then go through and cut the rest of the hair on top of it directly on top of my guide. I try to keep the razor stroke exactly the same throughout each section so that I can maintain the same amount of weight and the same amount of texture. I don't want to start with a real loose razor stroke underneath and then go with a real tight one on top. I want to keep everything even. And then if I need to go back in and take some weight out, then I can go through and purposely take weight out. I want to be very, very methodical. Even though I'm using a razor, which is a softer, more free type of cut, I still want to respect the methodology that I'm going through and cutting. And here I'll keep combing. Comb and comb and look and see where it doesn't fit. See where I need to clean it up. It needs to be cleaned up right there. So the same thing. Pull forward. See where it's not blending. And then fine-tune.   Fine-Tuning Now right here, I'm going to take my quarter part and right on top of the ear, I'm going to pull out a piece of hair, pinch that, and cut that real short. Right there. Not on top of the ear, shorter than the ear, but laying right on the top of it. Then I'll take a section at a diagonal going from the ear down into the nape. And here I'm going to switch it up. And since I was using my Feather Plier Razor, now I'm going to switch it up and use my Feather Styling Razor in the limited edition wood grain. So this way I can really get in there and fine-tune more without fear of having to cut myself because sometimes I need to fine-tune more than I need the cleanliness and the control of what the Plier provides me. So this way I can go through and get a really nice clean shape and I can continue to fine-tune without fear of cutting myself. And now I'll just start pinching over the ear and making sure everything blends like I want. And then pinching around the front, making sure that all blends. And I just keep fine-tuning it as I need to. This is a shape that just requires a lot of refinement to make sure it really falls in like you want it to. Now here I'm going to exaggerate my points in the back. These are the three major points in the back. So, I'm going to make sure that we can really arc that hairline out to get my kind of Batman kind of tail and then the wings on the side. I felt like the front was probably a little too thick and a little too solid. And since I wanted a modern version of this, I'm going to go through and razor a little bit, flat razor it to take some of that weight out. This is going to give me a nice lightness and softness and airiness to it so that when I blow it dry, I'll have a lot more versatility to it. And here there's something right there, right there at the corner of the eye that I just don't like. And I'm going to keep cleaning it up until I get it perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media, @jataifeather   Blowdrying, Styling and the End Result Once I get all my detailing finished like I want, I'm going to go through and start blowing dry. And then I'm going to use my Du-Boa styling brush to dry everything very, very neutral back and forth and back and forth until I can get everything nice and smooth and neutral and as much fullness as I want to so where I can whip the hair back and forth. After that, I'm going to put a little bit of texture paste on it just to enable me to get a little bit of separation and to make the shape really, really pop. Now, I think this looks pretty good. All right, here is our end result of our modern day five point. We got the key points here. We got three in the back. We got one on one side, a nice little bevel to point on the other side. And I think that the razor really adds a nice texture to this and makes it look really modern and fresh. You know, this is a very challenging haircut for a lot of people to do, especially me. But even to take it a step further and do it with a razor, I really think modernizes this really hardcore 70's Sassoon, 60's Sassoon kind of look. So something to add to your repertoire, something to practice. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. And also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. We'll see you next time. Thanks for watching.  

When we think of a Halle Berry short haircut, the first thing that comes to mind is the pixie cut. The Halle Berry short straight hair pixie haircut is her iconic red carpet look that has captivated her beauty and fashion forward hairstyles. In this tutorial Russell Mayes, re-creates this celebrity Halle Berry haircut using a Feather Styling Razor for an easy, soft look. With bangs to compliment the face and a little styling he creates a splitting image of the Halle Berry pixie cut. Watch this  video and follow along with the transcript. Halle Berry Short Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. And today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to do a pixie inspired by Halle Berry. She has great pixies and they're all different kind of lengths from really short and really clean to a little longer, a little more medium. But the things that I think they have in common is they're all almost the same length all the way around. So, we're going to show you how to get a little bit of softness around the edges without it looking mullety. We're going to show you how to get the right texture to it so you can have some fullness and some length without it starting to feel bulky and kind of old-fashioned.   Sectioning So, to get started here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. So, separating the bottom of the head, I can work with just the short part. Then the top part's going to be a lot easier once I got all this fitted in. Because to make sure that this gets fitted in around the edges and still be feminine is something that's going to take a little bit of detailing. So, we're going to deal with that first. Deal with the hard parts first. I'm going to take the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part. Quarter part to the occipital bone. That's going to give me the whole right underneath side. Now, from here, I'm going to section off at an angle right at the front of the hairline, which is going to be parallel to this hairline right behind the ear and parallel to that hairline right at the front. I find that by going parallel to my partings, it has a nicer flow to it and it fits the head shape better if I work within the boundaries of the hairline.   Starting on the Sides Now, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor and the limited edition wood grain. This is my favorite. I think it looks cool. And I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut more hair at one time. But I do have to be a little more conscientious because it is exposing a little bit more blade. So, we're going to start right here in the front at my first angle. And I think that what really makes this kind of pixie pop and still is a little feminine. I've looked at a lot of pictures of Halle Berry's haircut and a lot of them will have a little bit of graduation here on the side. So, I'm going to start putting a little bit of graduation into it, but we have to be careful to not get too much weight stacking up so that it starts to look kind of frumpy. So, that determines I'm going to take a very broad stroke so that I can cut my shape and cut my length without building up a whole lot of weight. So, I'm going to take hold of this parallel and then my fingers will determine what angle of graduation that I'm going to start with. So, I'm going to start with something about there. And I'm going to take a very broad razor stroke all the way down and through. Now, at this point, I want to look at it and see how that's fitting in. I like the lengths of it, but I can tell already that it's going to start building up too much weight. So, as I start to go through, I may start doing some channel cutting to remove some of that weight. Our next section, which is parallel to that first section, comb this into the first section. Hold out from the head. Find the angle that I was working on before. There it is underneath. I can see that. Try to take a nice broad razor stroke like I was doing before. Cut that all the way down and through. And then check and see. And I think we've got a little too much length here on the top. So before I start going all the way through, I'm going to take some of that length off the top. And I think that that's looking better already. That's looking better. Now I'm gonna go through and put a little bit of delicate channeling through here to remove some of that weight and see how it's looking. There we go. I like that. Now we're going to take our next section which is going to be parallel. And I'm running that all the way down in through the nape. So I've got my first, second, now my third section. I'll remove the first section. Now I will have the second and third section. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A nice broad stroke as we go down and through. That's looking pretty good. Now, right here, as I get to the middle of the ear, I can either choose to have more length down here on the bottom and make it kind of a waif-ish pixie, or I can fit this in really tight. Hold this parallel, same stroke, and cut this parallel to my parting. So, that's my parting. That's the line I'm cutting. Now, we're going to take our next section, which is going to be parallel to the same. And I'm going to keep working this same methodology until I get to the center back of the head. Now, we're going to take the last section right here, holding it out from the head with the previously cut section as my guide. Cut that down and through. And I like that. I'm going to take a little bit of channeling through here just to remove some weight and create a little separation. So now I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side.   Back Half of the Head All right. So I've gone through and separated the front half from the back half of the head. It's very important that I make this back half fit in and follow a head shape. If it starts to get too short, I'll make the head look flat in the back. And then that looks really ridiculous. And nobody wants to have a flat head. Take my center section. Now, when I hold this out from the head, I can see the angle of graduation that I already have here underneath. And I want to continue that up and bevel it out. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A little bit longer as I start to go up. Once I go past one flat section, I will go to the next flat section. Hold that 90 degrees. There's my length. Continue that up. When I get to the top, all the way and through. Now, from here, I'm going to pivot from the center piece that I had up there and make a little pie section as I work around to the side. Hold these two together. There's my guide from underneath and follow the same shape that I was working on underneath as I work back up following my guideline.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Pivoting again. Remove the center guideline that I had. So now I only have section two and section three. Fold this up and out. There's my guide from underneath. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Follow that all the way up to the very top. Then I'm just going to continue working this until I reach my quarter part. There's my guide from underneath and my previously cut guide.   The Top of the Head Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So, I'll take a horizontal section to my very first parting that I had, which separated the top from the bottom. I'm going to hold this out, determine the length from underneath, and then go through, lift this straight up and out. There's my guide from underneath, and continue the same broad stroke, holding this horizontally straight out from the head towards me. Not lowering my elevation to build up any weight but continuing this straight up. My next section's going to be parallel. Take my section underneath. Hold this straight out towards me. There's my guide underneath. And then go through and cut everything to blend. I could leave this longer if I was going for more of a Tinkerbell type of pixie or where she had more length on the top. You can take this parallel and make it all short on the top like some of a lot of her pictures were. We're going to make everything nice and short, but you could certainly go through and leave this a lot longer and disconnect it. A nice broad soft razor stroke as I'm working through there. And I'll go all the way till I reach the center of the head and hold everything straight out. Elevation coming towards me. Making sure that I'm not lowering my elevation. And keep everything nice and broad and soft. And so what that does is that also gives me a nice curved shape on the side of the head as well as the back of the head. All right, so we've got the underneath cut.   Removing Excess Length on the Top So now let's go through and take a center section and start dealing with our excess length on the top. I got my center section. And I'm going to hold that straight up in the air. There's my length from underneath. I'm going to turn the razor over and go through without moving my left hand. Just razor the top of that off. Keep a nice broad stroke and gradually increase the length as I go towards the front. There's my next piece. Let's get some of that hair out of the way. There's my guide. Now, at this point, the head is starting to curve, but I'm not curving with it. I'm continuing to go straight with it. That will leave me a little bit of extra length in the front that I can go through and fit that in later to make sure that the bang length is exactly the length that I want. I don't have to get it right right now. Now I'm going to take a parallel section walking to the left side. I'm going to comb the center section and this left section together. There's my guide from underneath. Let's go through. Cut that length. Working from back to front. Take my next parallel section. Comb that straight up. There's my guide from underneath. And as I start to get to the left side, you'll notice I'm running out of hair because I've already cut everything to blend in with the side. So, all I have to do is make sure I get the length on top, the length I want. And there's nothing else to blend through there. Perfect. So, now I'll go back to the center, find my original guide, which is right there, and then I'm going to add my next section, and do the same thing on the other side.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Bangs Now, let's go through and fit in our bang section. And I'm just going to take a horizontal section straight across from recession to recession. Take a little piece right here in the middle. A nice broad long stroke through there. I think a little more. A little more. We're going to make sure we get some good separation through there. And all I'm doing is looking at that center piece to see where that fits. And I think that that's going to be okay. Now, we're going to take our next piece next to it. I'm not picking up a guide. I'm just visually going to cut to try to fit this in in its area where it lives. So, I'm not using a guide other than just visually looking and seeing what looks right and pray a little bit and make sure I don't cut everything off completely. We're going to comb everything down. There's a little piece right there. Fit that in. Perfect. Right here. No guide. Just purely visually fitting this in around the front. Now we're going to take the next piece, comb this down. Anything that hangs over and looks too thick, I'm going to go through and fine-tune. Take a little bit of the weight out through there. A little bit here. I'm surface cutting right on the top. So, I cut the top layer shorter, not the underneath that I've already cut, just to see if anything hangs over. If something starts to get too thick like that, then I'll go through and start fine-tuning that as well to make sure I get my separation like I got underneath. I think the razor really lends itself to creating the perfect shape for this type of haircut because while it still gives it a strong shape, there's enough softness and separation and looseness to it that it can really look lived in and still remain very glamorous. So, let's blow it dry and see what we got.   Halle Berry Short Haircut Final Result Here's our end result. And I think that we got a really nice shape, especially around the crown, so you can get it short and full, but still have a nice pleasing head shape to it. I also think that we have a nice kind of soft perimeter shape around the edge. And on these mannequin heads and somebody with really thick pokey hair, this is kind of hard to achieve. So, you want to make sure that you compensate for however much inverted graduation that you put back here so that you leave a little bit of softness around the edges. We've got a nice little bit of graduation to it without it looking too bulky or too bowl-ly. And I think that looks pretty good. The bangs, you know, you can do so many different things with them. You kind of sweep them over, get them up out of the way. You know, you can have them kind of come down. whatever is your preference and whatever the style of Halle Berry pixie that you're going for. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Halle Berry hairstyles have mostly erred on shorter side. Her haircuts are classy and sophisticated. Sometimes it's straight and sometimes it's wavy. But Halle Berry short haircuts have remained her staple look and they look great on her! We hope you learned how to use a razor for this Halle Berry cut. Check out our other tutorials for other short haircuts.