Short shag haircuts are great for women at any age. They are fun, spunky and can be adapted across different hair types like thick hair or fine hair. It can be a straight or curly shag with curtain bangs or side swept bangs. It's a versatile cut that compliments various face shapes as well. The key is considering the different hair types and adjusting cutting techniques to make it just right. This short shag with bangs is a short length shag. While we may be more used to seeing longer shags with layers, the short shag is a style that's popular as well. If done right, you can rely on the hair's natural texture rather than hair products to make it look right. You shouldn't need a curling iron or flat iron to style it. Watch this tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Shag with Bangs Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a short shag. Now the short shag is just a combination of a Chelsea haircut and a pixie haircut because you have the short shape overall, but you have this long kind of tendrilly softness that hangs over the ear and in the back of the head. It's not a shaggy bob. But what makes this haircut really a shag is the separation that you get from using a razor. We're going to use our Feather Plier to make sure we channel and fine-tune each section to make sure it lays right and fits perfectly before we move on to the next one. So, I'm going to show you how to do that from start to finish. So, let's get started.   Establishing the Length So, we're going to get started with a center parting all the way down to the nape. Then, I'm going from the occipital bone to the mastoid, which is that bump right below the ear. And that's going to give me one whole panel to deal with. Now, her hair is pretty thick. So, I'm going to start splitting this panel into smaller pieces so that I can easily cut this with the razor because if it's too big a section, the razor is not going to cut very effectively. And I'm going to start here with my Feather Plier Razor. That is a guardless razor, which gives me the cleanest cut and the most control over cutting of each section. And I'm just going to go through and determine my length by pulling everything straight down, taking a very broad razor stroke. Now her hair has this, it's a coarser texture, right? And it's got a little bit of wave to it. So, I have to really pay attention and be mindful of the way that the hair reacts after I cut each section. So, you're going to find that when I'm doing this haircut, it's as much about me fine-tuning the shape as it is to me just going through and applying a basic technique of cutting a round shape. Cuz that's all this shape is going to be and this short shag is just a round shape with a little bit exaggerated length over the ears and in the nape. But what makes it pop is the ability to fit it in to where it naturally flows with the way that her hair wants to move. So I'll comb my section, determine my length, and then I'll go through and deep channel so I can get some separation to happen naturally so that when she washes it, she doesn't become product dependent to make the hair separate. I'm cutting that separation into it. Now, right here, it's a little thicker right there. So, I'm going to take that hair right on the tendril a little off so it lays a little flatter and that hair on top of it can hang over that. And I'm just fine-tuning it until I get it just right.   Building Graduation Now, we're going to take the rest of that section and instead of holding it horizontally, I'm going to hold it vertically. By holding it vertically, that's going to allow me to start building a little bit of graduation to it. And I'm leaving it longer than the hair that I cut underneath. So by leaving it longer than what hair I cut at the nape, it's going to allow that shape to collapse a little bit and not build up so much fullness. So, I'll go through, cut my vertical section, see how it falls, and then start adding texture as I see fit. And then I'll just continue my previous guide in the middle and start walking that guide over to the right. Now you'll notice that on some of the sections I will just flat cut the length and then some of the sections I'll channel cut and then cut the length. What determines that is how thick the section feels. If the section feels very thick, I'm going to go through and channel cut and take the length off. If it doesn't feel overly thick, I'm just going to cut the length off and then go back in and start applying my texture. So, there's two schools of thought when it comes to cutting hair. There's the real technical aspect of it where I'm going through and taking real clean sections and clean partings and I'm building my shape like I'm designing architecturally. I'm designing the shape. And then there's the free form method or the visual method, which is more of a French aesthetic where you visually look at the hair, see how it falls, and then you modify the haircut visually, not based upon some sort of architectural structuring that you're designing the haircut with a pattern. So in order to be great at cutting hair, I feel you have to master both the technical way of doing hair and then the visual free form way of doing hair. So this haircut here with the razor is kind of a combination of both. I have a structure in mind that I'm cutting which is this graduated underneath a little round layered shape. And then I'm visually going through and applying my cut, taking out hair where it needs to be taken out of and leaving hair where it needs. And so visually going through and modifying that structured haircut to get it to flow the way that I want it to flow. Now, I've just been walking my guide over to the side, taking a look at it, and then modifying the shape as I need to with whatever texture needs to be modified. We're going to start in the middle there. I'm using my middle guide as my length guide. We'll channel and then cut my length, and then I'll fine-tune it as I see fit. Now, working with the Feather Plier Razor, it is very sharp and it cuts beautifully well, but you can't cut a really thick section. So, because the razor is fairly lightweight, I have to respect the lightweight and use my scissor motion to cut. I can't use the weight of the razor to go through and cut. I have to use the movement to cut. And that forces me to deal with smaller sections, which forces me to deal with a more detailed shape. Now, we're going to go through and start applying a little bit of texture here, making sure everything fits in. There we go. That's looking pretty good. And also, this blade is very, very sharp. And because it's sharp, it allows me to go through and effortlessly cut and remove whatever hair I need to remove without a whole lot of force and a lot of pressure. Now, as the blade dulls, it starts to push the hair and I have to work at cutting it and it starts to take my focus away from what I'm doing. And when I notice that, that means it's time to change the blade. So, just change the blade. Some hair forces it to get duller faster.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Center Back of the Head Now, we're going to move on to our next section once I feel I have that entire flat section, the nape taken care of. And here, I'll go through and take a section from the drop crown right to the high point of the ear. This is the center back of the head. I'm taking my guide from underneath. I'm pulling this vertical section straight out from the head and I'm cutting it straight up and down. I'm no longer graduating this section. I feel that because her hair is so thick. If I start graduating this section, it's going to start building up kind of a shelf look and it's going to start to look very very thick. And that's the thing about cutting a shorter haircut, a shag or a pixie on thicker hair is I want to avoid that mushroomy type of shape. So by pulling it straight out from the head and cutting straight up and down vertically, I'm not increasing length as I get to the crown. It's all the same length, same head shape as I go up. So the nape section I graduated to make sure I kept that natural head shape and then from there, I start to layer the section.And I'm doing the same methodology I was doing before where I cut in the center. And then I walk my guide to the ear. And then I'll go to the center and walk my guide to the ear on the opposite side. After I've got that done, I'm going to check it out and see how it flows. Is there anything that's sticking out that I don't like that feels asymmetrical, it feels too disheveled? And then I'll modify the basic shape. thin. After I do that, I'll go through and start applying my channel cutting so I can remove weight and force the hair to separate. And I just want to be very, very methodical as I'm going through and I'm applying my deep channel cut to each section. I don't lift up a guide from the previously cut section when I'm applying my texture. Each section is only going to be texturized once. And then I'll modify as needed after I've cut the entirety of the panel. This whole panel here, this second panel I'm working on, after I texturize the whole thing, I'll shake it, look at it, and then modify and add more texture where I need it. It's always easier to go through and add more texture and take out more weight than it is to put it back if you've taken too much. So, I want to be mindful of that. I want to be respectful of that and be careful. There we go. That's laying down very nice. Now, we're just checking the weight and checking the texture, checking the movement. And I'm liking the way that that's flowing. I like that little bit of length that we have at the nape. A little bit of tendrilly pieciness.And I think that when she washes and just puts some cream in it, it'll be really nice. This kind of flippy pixie you know, shagg-ish type of shape. It's almost the back kind of reminds me of that waif-ish pixie that was very popular in the 80s, but because we're leaving the sides longer, too, it makes it more of a short shag. Now, we're going to take the next panel, which is the quarter part, high point of the head to the top of the ear. That's the entire back of the head. So, now I'll do the exact same methodology I was doing before. Pull everything straight back. Cut it straight up and down. So it leaves me a little bit of length at the top of the head, but it takes that bulbous weight out in the center back so I don't get that kind of mushroomy type of shape that can become very very prevalent on super thick coarse hair. Removing the previously cut guide, I have guide number two and then guide section number three. Comb those together as I walk my guide to the left side. Sorry, my head got in the way there and just lay the razor against it and try to keep the same stroke size for every section around the entirety of the head so I maintain some symmetry and some consistency in my texture that I'm applying on the ends. Now, we're going to take everything, work it over to the ears, and I think that that's shaping up pretty good. And you'll see that because I'm pulling this straight out from the head, it's leaving that length right there at the ear. So, I'll have that little bit of shaggy shape over the ear. I don't have to worry about cutting it out. I can cut it out if I want, but I don't need to.   Around the Ears After I've cut the whole back, I'll go through and take a section on the side. I'll pull that forward at a diagonal parting and then determine my length going a little shorter towards the nose and a little longer right there at the ear. And I'll fit that in as I see fit. And there is a fly flying around there. It was driving me crazy. And how a fly got in the salon, I have no idea. But anyway, we're going to take the first section. We've cut that to fit in. Now we're going to take the second section, very very broad stroke to keep that kind of tendrilly texture from the front right over the ear so it doesn't get bulky. The broader that this stroke that I take, the softer that the end result will be. Then there we go. That's looking pretty good. Check that out. See how it falls over the ear? If I need to add more texture, I'll add more texture. But I think that that's looking pretty good.    The Fringe After I've done that on both sides, I will now take the first section right at the bump of that front of the hairline where I would take the bangs to the top of the ear. I'll pull that hair forward. Determine where I want my shortest piece of my layering and fringe around the front to fall. And I want this to hit just above the nose.So, I'm going to leave it a little longer than the nose so that as it dries, it shrinks up and pops up a little bit. Then we're going to take a little bit right in the middle and channel that a little bit shorter. So, but since it's shorter in the center, it's going to force it to flow out of her face. And we can see a nice amount of movement that's happened right there. Now, I'm going to take that piece and blend it to the section that I have already cut right over the ear. I'm taking a deep channel cut and then cut my length. And this is just purely visual cutting. I'm seeing where my length is from my short piece and then my length that I'm going to. And then I'm just carving that in.There's my piece that just fell out on my finger. That's my guide. And then I'll just blend that into the piece that I cut right around the front around the fringe and keep going until I get everything dialed in exactly like I want and to where it moves and flows beautifully on its own that I don't have to force it into shape. And that's looking pretty good. I like that that length that around the ear is separating like that.    Deep Channel Cutting Now, we're going to take another parallel section right behind it using my previously cut guide and then go through channel cut that length off to make sure that nothing's going to hang over that front. So, the key point to this is to just make sure I have that deep channel cut to force some separation and to keep it from getting lumpy. The broader the stroke, the less lumpy I'm going to get. Every section that I take, I will comb and see how it fits into the rest of the haircut. Here's the rest of the hair. I'm pulling that forward, doing the exact same thing I was doing before, and following the previously cut guide. She has got a mountain of hair and I love it. I think it's great. I like the color, too. She's doing henna on it. So, this lighter pieces of henna is where she's gone a little bit of gray. And so that henna just makes it look like a highlight, which I think looks really cool. Everything's fitting in around the front, right? Nice. I like that. Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather Checking everything, making sure it fits in properly. And I like the way that's looking.   Round Out the Layering on Top Now, let's go through and because I was pulling everything to the sides and then to the back, I left a corner on the top. I just want to go through and round out my layering on the top. So, I'm going to take a mohawk section from the front all the way to the back. And anything that hangs out, I'm going to cut off. I'm going to keep the same kind of razor texture that I was doing before. And here, I will slow down and methodically apply my cut. I'm not trying to just power through it. I'll slow down because the insides of my finger are very delicate and I don't want to cut them. So, I'll be respectful of the cut, respectful of the razor motion as I hold through and do this. Now, when you first start doing this kind of layering where you're cutting on the inside of your hand, it's a little frightening. So, I may start with the Feather Styling Razor, which has a built-in guard, so I don't have to worry so much about cutting myself, and I can get the motion and the practice of doing the cut without the fear of having to cut myself. But eventually, you'll move to a bladeless, I'm sorry, a guardless razor, and that gives you a lot more control. Now, we're just going to go through and blow it dry and style it and make sure we get a little bit of paste on it to get some separation and some pieciness. And a little bit of smoothing cream as well. I like it. It looks good. You can also let it air dry but we're blowdrying to speed up the process. You don't need texture spray or a round brush for this haircut.   Final Look Here's our end result of this razor cut shag. And I think we've really got this shape dialed in. We've got the right texture. We've got the right amount of separation. The haircut fits. It's really a neutral shape. And it's all about getting the right texture channeled into it very deeply with the razor and making sure each little layer and each section fits before we move on to the next. And when you have coarse hair like this, it demands a lot of fine-tuning to make sure it just flows right. You're not just going to power through this haircut. You need a lot of fine-tuning and detailing to make sure it fits not only her head shape, but also her hair texture and gives you the separation that you want. Try out this low maintenance shaggy haircut with bangs. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.

Arguably the most iconic Keanu Reeves hairstyle is the John Wick haircut. The long hair, the natural style and cool vibe makes this haircut work for his character. While the Keanu Reeves buzz cut was popular from Speed as well as his longer hair in the Matrix, the John Wick hairstyle always remained long. And in real life, he has maintained the longer hairstyle to this day. Watch this Keanu Reeves haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.  Keanu Reeves Hairstyle - John Wick Tutorial Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russel Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing one of Keanu Reeves hairstyles, the one he wore in the movie John Wick. It's cool. It's long, but it's got some layering around the front. It's got a lot of movement, but the key element is the texture. It's not a stringy piecey texture. It's still a solid shape with just that right amount of texture to give it a soft lived in, I don't care, my hair just naturally looks cool. So, let's get started. Establishing the Length We're going to start with a center section all the way down to the nape. I'm going to separate from the occipital bone to the mastoid. That separates the entirety of the flat in the back. We're going to take that into smaller sections to make it easier to cut. And then I'm going to go through and apply a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide all over to make my razor glide through the hair so much more effortlessly. It compacts the cuticle and makes it smoother. Then we're going to use our Feather Styling Razor. I'm using the fancy silver one with my Standard Blade with a guard. This goes through and allows me to cut fairly quickly without any kind of worry of cutting myself. Now, we're going to measure where that's hitting below the jaw. I want that kind of shoulder length-ish. So, I'll determine the length, hold that straight down, and then take a small razor stroke just to cut the length off. I'm going to cut everything one length and kind of a bob shape, but I want to keep that bob shape soft. I want it to have an effortless, lived-in type of texture, and this gives me that. And so, I can go through and control how much softness I want on the perimeter shape by how broad of a razor stroke that I use. If I go and use a scissor to cut this and then try to texturize it, it's going to be very, very hard to get that super blunt line out of it. And this haircut, this shape is not about blunt lines. It's about I haven't had a haircut in a long time, but I still want it to look cool. So, this gives me that kind of lived-in texture to it. I'm going to continue working my way up the back of the head, and I'm just going to comb everything down, following my original guide, and cut everything one length. After I get everything cut one length like I want, I'm going to check and see how it looks. And I feel like it's still a little thick. Adding Texture So, as opposed to going through and taking a broader razor stroke, I'm going to separate this section into two because it's just too much hair to deal with in one section. And after I section it into two, then I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor, but I'm going to use the Texturizing Blade. So, this blade gives me like little guards across the blade that prevents it from cutting. So as I cut, it almost channel cuts for me, but since I'm laying it flat against the surface of the hair, it just gives me a nice amount of texture and a softness to it, and I can control exactly how much I take out. As I lay the razor against the hair, I'm laying it flat against the head and just taking one stroke from about midway all the way down to the ends. I'm not going to go through and do a lot of back and forth motion. I want as seamless of a cut as I can get in one motion if I can. If I need to, I'll go back in and touch that up a little bit. But I want to make sure that when I apply the texture to this section that it's just one even movement from the mid of the length all the way down to the end. So, I want to be mindful of how much pressure that I put on the razor because the more pressure that I put against it, the more it's going to cut. And I don't want to remove the shape. I just want to soften the shape. And this does a great, excellent job of just softening the shape. Now, I'll go through and be very diligent to not over texturize one area more than another. I want to keep everything as methodical as possible. Now, we'll check our shape. And I feel like that's going to be a much softer kind of shape and a much more fluid shape. Rinse and Repeat Now I'm just going to continue to do the same methodology all the way up the head. I'll take parallel sections to my first section that I took. Hold everything down. Cut my perimeter length by going through and using my regular Styling Razor. And then after I go through and use my regular Styling Razor, then I'll go through and lay a little bit of texture on it. So it's just very very methodical in my application even though the end result is going to be very very soft and almost haphazard almost grown out type of look. So that's what I'm doing. Now here, after I've cut my perimeter length, we're going to go through and apply my texture as methodically as I was doing before. Just one section. Move it out of the way. Texturize the next section. Move it out of the way. Texturize the next, being as consistent as I can. Now, if I run across a section of hair that's a little thicker, yeah, I'll go back in and put a little bit more texture into it, but I want to be mindful of that. I don't want to over texturize it. Here we've finished all of our perimeter shape. I'm just combing everything down and cutting anything that hangs off over my perimeter shape and just fine-tuning and cleaning that up. There's not a whole lot to cut on this particular doll head, but there was a lot underneath, but not a whole lot on top. Now, we're going to go through and apply our texture just like we were doing for the rest of the cut. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. Now, we just continue to go through, make sure that we've got the right amount of texture. If it doesn't need any texture, then it doesn't get any texture. If it needs a little bit, we give it a little bit. If it needs a little more, we'll give it a little bit more. This is where your creative approach and your opinion comes into play. Every head of hair is going to be a little bit different. So, it needs a little bit different of an approach. Some hair may need less texture. Some hair may need more. Addressing the Front That brings us to the end of cutting our perimeter length right there. And that looks pretty good. So now let's go through and separate the hair around the front. I'll take the first bump of the head right around the bang section to the top of the ear. I'll pull that forward and then determine what length I want right there by the chin. I'll cut everything exactly like I was cutting the perimeter length before. Just cut everything one length, laying the razor flat against that section. Cutting my perimeter length around the front. And we're going to continue to pull everything forward and blend my front little bang section into the length right by the ear. So the length right by the ear is my cutting to length right there. And then the shortest piece that I cut in the center right in front of the bangs is my short piece. So I go short to long. And then I'm going to do that on both sides to make sure that we have a nice roundish shape around the front. So, the whole idea around this is that with it shorter around the front, when he pushes it back out of his face, it tends to stay out of his face, but I still want the length to have that kind of cool factor that long, messy hair has. Take my next section, pull that forward using my original guide, and just follow that methodology through. I did not thin the first section that I took. I will go through and thin this section, but I didn't thin the first one because I don't want to make it more difficult to control any kind of loose hairs that get out around the front. So, when I brush it back, I have less shorter hairs that I have to worry about. Pulling everything forward, following my guide exactly the same way as I was doing before. Follow us on your favorite social media @Jatai Feather Texturing the Front Now, my second section that I've already cut my perimeter length for, I've already cut the length. I'm going to go through now and add my texture to it. This is just surface texture. I'm not going all the way through the section. If I did that, I would have no shape left. And I'm just methodically applying a little bit of texture like I did through the back just to soften the weight up and to keep it mobile and fluid. So when I push it back out of the face, I have less resistance. Being very very methodical about this and thoughtful as I go through and apply my texture. This is the Texturizing Blade. So it gives me a little bit of safeguard of over razoring it as if I did it without a guard on it. This gives me that extra guard to give me the texture that I want. There we go. Pulling everything forward. That's looking pretty good. Now, let's brush this around and see if we've got enough texture to it and how the shape is falling. And I think that we've got the right texture. This haircut is all about getting the right texture. The lengths are really kind of irrelevant. As long as you've got this longer hair, it's all about getting the right texture. So the right texture is a blunt-ish type of shape with just softening throughout. I'm not creating any kind of channeling to force it to separate into little pieces. I just want it lighter and airy on the ends to provide a lot of movement. And the movement doesn't come from me creating separation from channeling it. Now we've got all of our cutting done. Let's look at it and see what we got and make sure we got the right texture. And I think that looks pretty good. I like that we can tuck behind the ear on this mannequin head a little bit. And the texture is really good. It's that kind of Walking Dead John Wick type of texture. And I think that this is going to be very very popular coming up. Final Look Here's our Keanu Reeves hair cut end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I think we really captured the essence of what the shape is all about where it's long, it's layered around the front a little bit, it's got the right amount of texture to it that really walks that tight rope of not enough to where it looks overly thick and solid, but not too much to where it just starts to look like a stringy mess. And I think that it still has that effortless cool that the character really demanded. And I think he pulled it off really well. And I think that we really captured that with this haircut. So, it's about getting the right amount of texture. And I think that the Feather Styling Razor Texturizing Blade gives us that perfect amount of texture with one easy stroke across removes enough to give it some texture and removes some weight, but not so much that it starts to get separated and stringy. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hair stylist or barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we will see you next time.

When you're dealing with fine hair or thin hair, maximizing movement and texture in a shag haircut without overdoing it is key. This medium length layered haircut incorporates face framing layers, side swept fringe and soft separation at the ends which is characteristic of shag haircuts. Watch the video and follow the transcript below.    Heavy Medium Shag for Thin Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a women's mid-length shag, but it's a heavy shag style. Most shags that you see are really, really layered and highly textured and they give you that real wispy kind of airy look. And if you have really thick hair, it works amazingly well. But if you don't want to lose all that thickness or you don't have the thickness to lose, say you got finer texture of hair, I'm going to show you a way to get the same type of textured layers of that real wispy on the end kind of look, but not so much that you're going to lose all of your internal volume. Let's get started.   Establishing the Perimeter Starting in the center back here, holding down horizontal. Using my Feather Styling Razor, I'm going to go through and cut everything horizontal. So, I'm going to use about an inch to an inch and a half razor stroke and cut everything fairly blunt with just a little bit of movement to my razor stroke so I can get some lightness and some airiness into the ends. Just holding everything straight down and natural fall and cutting straight across. It's naturally going to bevel a little bit whenever you cut anything horizontal with your Styling Razor, but that's my guide for the perimeter length.   Heavy Layering Now I'm taking a vertical section and holding everything down at a 45 from the head and I'm cutting a straight up and down vertical section. So I'm actually cutting a layer section into the shape while I'm holding it down into a graduation elevation. So, this is going to give me a heavier type of layering than if I was to just go through and hold everything straight out from the head and layer it. So, it's going to give me that weight from the graduation of how I'm holding it, but the lightness from the layering that I'm cutting into it. Checking everything there. Making sure I've got everything like I want. And just cleaning it up, taking my time and cleaning up each section as it needs to be cleaned up. Now, we're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. You can see my line there. I'm cutting straight up and down and holding it down at a 45 graduation angle. Anything that hangs over, I will then go through and cut off and make sure that my perimeter shape is clean. Now, I'm going to work from the back of the head into the side of the head. I don't like to separate the back from the side when I'm doing my horizontal sectioning. A lot of people will stop at the quarter part, but I'm not going to do that. I'm just going to keep working all the way around. Starting in the center, following the same guide, the same elevation that I had, and the same angle of cut line that I'm cutting, I'm going to go through and cut anything else off in my new guide, removing half of my previously cut section, holding that out at a 45, and then cutting straight up and down. So, by going through and doing this layering type of cut on a graduation type of section, it gives me a heavy type of layering, much heavier than if I was holding it straight out from the head. It's not quite graduation because graduation makes the shape stack from shorter underneath to longer on top. This is keeping everything much more even. Now, as I work into the sides, I'm cutting my perimeter because I didn't cut my perimeter shape on the side before. Going back into the center, holding that straight out, following my guide that I had before. There we go. That's a good angle right there. You can really see the straight up and down angle that I'm cutting into this section. So, by going through and doing this, it gives me layering without putting too much layering in it. I can still keep my shape really, really solid. Continuing with the rest of the hair, taking pie sections, working from the back center into the sides, trying to follow the same razor stroke that I was using underneath.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're continuing to walk our guide in pie sections around the back of the head as we get into the side of the head. Just following the previously cut guide that was underneath and also from the previously cut sections, holding everything on the side straight back. We're going to layer the front. So, I want to make sure that we blend into the layering in the back and our length on the sides.   Channel Cutting After we've gone through and cut our whole shape so far, I'm going to go back in and start to remove some of the weight on the end. So the last four or five inches on the ends, I'm going to go through and channel cut just to force the hair to separate a little bit more. I can get that shag type of shape in a very very controlled way by only putting the layering on the very ends. I've cut my shape. It's a solid shape with a little bit of layering underneath and then going through and adding just the right amount of texture really makes the hair move. It forces the ends to separate and really gives me that shag shape. Another thing about going through and cutting your shape first and then applying your texture as opposed to doing both at the same time, I can control how much weight and how much separation that I get much more precisely if I've already precut the overall shape. And then I just apply my texture. If I'm having to do both, it I'm going in and applying texture a little bit blindly because I can't tell exactly how much I'm cutting off as I'm cutting the length off at the same time. So, here you can see it's thick right there. It's thick right there. And then I skip that little gap right through there. It doesn't need it where the gap is, so I don't put any in. Around the front there's very little. Boom. We're done. Now, we're going to go through and check. I'll shake everything out just to feel the weight across the entirety of the head and make sure nothing really stands out.   Side Swept Bangs Now I'm going to go through and take our bang section, which is going to be the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear and from recession to recession. Taking that straight across. I want this to hit around the lips. That's going to be my guide. And then I'll go through following my parting. That's the line that I'm going to cut into it. So, I'm holding everything T to my parting and cutting from short down to long. Whatever that long length is right there by the ear, that's my go to guide. I have my come from guide by cutting the wispy bangs first. So, the bangs are the short piece. The piece at the ear is the long piece. And then I just blend the two together by pulling everything forward T to my parting that I've got right there from the top of the head to the ear. After I've got that fit in like I want, I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. It's important that I cut from the top down because you notice I'll go hand up on one side and hand in on the other side so that I can make sure that the movement is the same on both sides. I can't cut one side going up and one side going down and expect it to be the same. I have to cut both sides short to long. So, I have to maintain that kind of movement. Now, we're going to check our bangs. I think it needs to be a little shorter. So, I'm going to take a little shorter right through there. I've got the basic shape in. I didn't like that. A little bit more, I think, is appropriate. There we go. Looking good.  Shags are also known to incorporate curtain bangs, so create these instead if desired.   Blending the Front with the Back Now, we're going to take our next section, which is the high point of the head, right to the mastoid, right behind the ear. I'll pull this down at a 45, pulling it forward and follow the previously cut guide that I had underneath. By elevating it at a 45, I'll keep my weight around the front even though I'm putting razor texture into it and cutting my shape with the razor. Because I'm pulling it at a 45, that's going to maintain that kind of heaviness. So, I can get the separation from the razor, but I can maintain a more solid shape. The higher that I elevate this, the more weight that I'm going to remove from my layering around the front. Sometimes I want it, sometimes I don't. Now, we're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. And here you can see I'm still cutting from short at the center of the head down to my long piece at the ear. So, you'll notice the razor comes on top on the inside of my knuckles and cuts down to my fingertips where on the other side I cut from my fingertips to my knuckles. Now, we're going to take the rest of the hair on this side, comb everything forward, see if anything hangs over that front section, and make sure that everything blends through and I don't have any long little pieces that don't blend from back to front.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Drying and Styling Now, let's go through and blow it dry. I'm going to power dry first to get everything off of the scalp to get some volume. Then, I'm going to go through with a round brush just to make sure everything gets smooth and I get all the textures really smooth before I go through and drag a curling iron through it. Now, when I'm putting a curling iron in, I'm taking the entirety of the section from the crown all the way down into the nape. I'll pull that through, curl the center first. As that gets hot, then I'll go through, leave the center out, and then start to work that to the end. So, I only get curl in the center and the ends are a little softer. My first pass with the curling iron, the curls were a little too big. So, I went back in with a smaller curling iron and curled everything exactly with the same methodology I was doing before, but just with a smaller barrel. I did not curl the bangs. I left those from whatever my blowout was. So, I have a straighter bang that has some movement to it out of the face. And I like it. I think it looks good.   End Result Here's our end result. And I think that this looks really good. It walks that tight rope between overly layered textured shag and overly thick kind of stiff hair that doesn't move. This gives you the texture and movement on the ends that a thin hair shag really presents and does well, but it also gives you that internal fullness so that you can get some volume and you can get some movement to it without overly layering it. It gives you a nice kind of layering around the front, but since I'm elevating it lower, it keeps it semi-solid. And also by elevating it in a graduated shape when I go to layer it and then layering it with a vertical type of cut, it really balances between the two. So I get the fullness and the movement at the same time as getting the texture and the softness you need for a shag haircut for thin hair. This medium shag can also be made on short hair. Same principals apply to shag short haircuts on thin hair. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

The bro flow haircut is a hairstyle that men gravitate toward when they want to grow their hair out. The bro flow hairstyle is named due to the characteristic back flow of the hair and has roots in the athletic space which gives a surfer or hockey vibe. That's where the 'bro' comes in. Watch this men’s flow hairstyle tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.  Bro Flow Haircut Tutorial:  Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing the bro flow. The bro low is basically someone who's had a fade. They're sick of it. They want to grow it out into something longer but still look cool. So, we're going to show you how to apply the right amount of texture to add some flow, to add some fullness without it getting big so we can still get that separation and still most importantly keep it looking cool. So, let's get started.   Creating the ‘Flow’ on the Sides So, the first section we're going to do is we're going to take a section on the side of the head, the center of the recession, straight back to the quarter part, quarter part down to the occipital bone. Now, I'm going to take an angle right at the front and use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so it gives me the cleanest cut and the most control over my cut line. And I'm going to pull that forward parallel to my parting or perpendicular to my parting. Pull that forward using the face as my guide to kind of determine what length I want. Cut that down and through. And then I'll take the second section and hold it into the first section right at the front of that first section. So at the very front of that section, I'm going to hold it straight out from the head. And then I'm going to hold everything from section two into section one. I'll remove section one. You'll see me place my finger. That's exactly where I'm going to hold the hair straight out from the head from. And hold that out. Use that as my guide and cut that down and through. The angle in this is a little awkward, but I am holding it at 90 from the head, right at the front of those two combined sections. Now, a lot of times when I walk my guide, I'll hold it to the center of both sections. But this one, I'm holding to the front of the section to increase my length as I go from the front to the back. I'll comb that through. See how we're getting our flow? Because whenever you're cutting hair shorter on one side than the other, that's going to make the hair move or flow to where the longest part is. And I'll just continue to work this same methodology all the way into the back center of the head. So each section I take, I combine it with the previously cut section and hold it straight out at the front of that previously cut sections parting, pulling everything into that and making it longer in the back. There we go. We're going to continue to work that down. You'll see me remove my previously cut straight out 90° from the front of those two sections partings using a pretty broad stroke with my razor so I keep everything nice and soft. Now, if you have someone who has had really short hair and they're growing it out, this is an excellent way to grow it out. Now, obviously, my mannequin head has a lot longer hair and I'm cutting it down, but if they have shorter hair, you're going to follow the same pattern and the same methodology so that I can start to increase the length. And I think a lot of times when someone has really, really clean short hair, you've got to keep it out of the face. So, having it shorter around the front and longer in the back enables them to have that kind of fuller, longer type of hair without it driving them so crazy around the front. Checking out the shape. And that's looking pretty good. We're not looking at the length in the back. We'll deal with that later. Now, we're going to go through and blend the top into the bottom. I'll take a horizontal section, hold that out using the length on the sides as my guide, and I'll cut that from front to back. And I'll continue to use a pretty broad stroke so I can keep everything really soft and highly textured.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Blending the Top with the Sides Now, we're going to continue on with my sections to blend the top into the sides. I'll take my next section and my previously cut guide, previously cut hair as my guide. Holding that out straight across out to the side, using a broad stroke, using my guide from underneath to make sure nothing hangs over on the sides. Now, if you do have someone who is growing their hair out, usually the top is going to be longer than the sides. So, you can continue to let that overhang and, you know, have an undercut shape until the hair on the top gets long enough or until the hair on the side gets long enough to balance the shape out. Now, we've reached the center of the head. This is the last section on the top on the right side, making sure nothing hangs over. And we've got a nice amount of texture in it from our broad stroke of the razor. And just continuing that all the way back until everything blends through. That's looking pretty good. Now we've got the sides and the back and the top all kind of blended together.   Removing Length in the Back I'm going to go through and remove some of that length in the back because I think it's just too much. Especially if someone's growing their hair out, they're not going to have this much length. So I'll take a center section, hold that straight down, and then use my razor flat against the section and go through and cut my length off. I'm still using a broad razor stroke so that I can have a similar texture to the rest of the cut. I don't want necessarily on this haircut to have a variance in weight and texture. So, I try to keep the same broad razor stroke throughout the entirety of the haircut. Holding everything down and just cutting everything one length-ish. It's not going to be completely one length because I am using a razor and a broad stroke. But this gives me a lot of separation and pieciness. And this works really, really well, especially on somebody that has really thick coarse hair. It keeps it from looking broom-like. Now, if their hair is really, really thick, I'll go through and channel that a little bit to remove some of that weight so it takes that broomy kind of look away from it. Continuing to comb everything down. Anything that hangs over my previously cut guide, I'll just cut that down and through. That's looking good through there. And taking as much time as I need to make sure everything blends. This haircut and anytime you're using a razor is as much about the look of it. I'm cutting visually and technically. There's two schools of thought when it comes to cutting hair. There's the real hardcore technical where you're building a structure and your lines and everything's cut real blunt and you're building this architectural type shape. And then there's the other school which is kind of an artistic type of cutting where you're just visually cutting whatever doesn't fit. So, a razor demands a little bit of experience in both not only the technicality of applying your shape, but also the artistic eye of applying the right amount of texture to make sure everything blends through.   Cutting the Top Now, we're going to go through and cut the top. I'm going to take a center section all the way from the front into the center of the back all the way down to the nape. Now, I'm going to use my Feather Styling Razor because if you start cutting hair with a razor, it's easier to do underneath, especially if you're using a Plier Razor with no guard. Now, coming up to the top, it's a little scarier. So, I'm going to go ahead and use the Feather Styling Razor is kind of like a little protection so that I don't end up cutting my finger and having to be so delicate. I'll pull this straight up and anything that hangs out from where my bang section was, I'm just going to round this whole shape out and layer it all the way through. Starting from the front going all the way to the back. Now, if you're experienced and comfortable using a Plier Razor doing this, I highly encourage you to do that. It will give you a cleaner cut and give you much more control over the broadness of the stroke, the cleanliness of the cut, where the Styling Razor gives me a little bit of protection, but it does take a little bit of control out of the precision that I can apply with the razor. And I'll cut that all the way from the front all the way through, making sure everything is nice and round in my layering. Now I'm going to take the entire right side of the head, anything that reaches, hold that up into the center, and cut that through. Now, since there's not a whole lot of hair to cut, I'm just going to lay my thumb gently across the blade, and anything that gets pushed into the blade, that hair will get cut. So, I'm just going through and cleaning that up. And anything that hangs over the center, I'm cutting that off. That's looking good through there. I like that. And continuing this all the way down through into the nape. Nice round shape through there. I like that. Very good. Now, we're going to go through and do exactly the same thing on the other side. I'm going to start taking my center section just like I did originally all the way down through the nape. Use that as my guide and pull everything straight up into the center. And anything that hangs over, I'm going to cut off. Now, there's not a whole lot of layering through here, but this does add a nice amount of airiness to it and increase the amount of movement and flow that we have. Anytime hair is one length, it doesn't move as much. Anytime it's lighter and airier and later, it moves more.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Following our previously cut guide in the center, and anything that hangs over, just cutting that all off. Now, let's go through and since we pulled everything to the sides, we're going to have a little point right in the front. I want to take some of that point off so it doesn't become so predominant and force the hair to flow towards the face.   Removing the Point So, I'm going to take that point off, that tip off, and then just go through and bevel that and blend it into the sides as much as I can. I'm not trying to make sure that everything is perfectly blended into the sides because you can see it gets a little shorter, but I definitely want to take that point off from the very, very front. Take a little bit of weight out through there to make sure it doesn't hang separate from the rest of the haircut. And then that's looking pretty good.   Removing Weight on the Sideburns Now, we're going to move into the sides. And I feel on this mannequin head, which on some people, the sideburn gets real thick and it forces the hair to kind of stick out from the head. So, I'm going to take some of that hair and thin it out and just soften that edge and soften that line so it doesn't become so strong so that when I push it, it becomes a little bit softer. Just like that. There we go. I like that better. That doesn't stick out and become as pokey. Bro Flow Haircut Final Look Here's our end result. And I think that we're looking pretty good. We got a nice amount of texture to it, a nice shape, and it's very, very easy to style. Here's our end result. And I think that this looks really good. I like the texture to it. The texture is what keeps this shape looking effortlessly cool, you know, because if you have some guy who's had short hair and it's always looking groomed, it's going to take a little transition for them to go from being super short and really clean to longer and a little messy. So, it's going to take a little time. And I think this is the perfect transition and a perfect goal for someone that wants a little bit more hair and a lot more movement to it because the texture really lends itself to that. And this is just air dried. I just put some grease in it and just let it go. So you don't require a lot of styling when it comes to this hair flow shape, which is perfect for a lot of men that are trying to grow their hair out. This looks pretty good. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information and tools on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

In this French Bob without bangs chic haircut, Russell takes a classic French bob haircut adds a modern element of flipped ends at chin length. This is a style that works best on straight hair (not curly). You will love the final result! Watch the video tutorial below or read along below with the transcript and learn now to create a French bob without bangs straight hair.  French Bob without Bangs and Flipped Ends Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Most bobs you see are kind of cupped under and curved and smooth. We're going to try to do something today that flicks out, gives it some pizzazz and some cool little anime texture to it. So, let's get started.   The Graduation with Vertical Sections So, we're going to start with a center part in the back of the head. Separate the left from the right. Then we're going to go a little above the occipital bone right to the mastoid behind the ear. Then we're going to use our Feather Plier Razor. This is a no guard razor. It gives me the cleanest cut and the most control of each cut line that I do. So be careful with this. Be mindful once you learn how to use it. It is a brilliant, brilliant tool. We're going to take a vertical section in the center of the back of the nape. I'm gonna hold that out and imagine what angle of graduation that I want to start building. So, I'm going to start cutting from long and then angling that into the short right at the very hairline in the nape. Make sure I get that clean. Clean up that little bit right there at the hairline. Find out if that's my graduation that I want. Then I'll take a parallel section as I walk that guide from the center of the back over to the right side of the head. So I'll combine the first section that I cut with the second section using the first section as my guide and then continue walking that all the way over until I run out of hair at the area right behind the ear at the mastoid. It's going to give me a nice clean graduation. Make sure that I don't have any lengths hanging off of the back underneath. And then we're going to do the same thing to the other side. You can see the end result here of this right side. We do the same on the other side.   Encouraging the Flip And then we're going to take a parallel section as I walk up the back of the head. This is the same angle I was cutting underneath. But instead of holding this vertically, now I'm going to transition into horizontal sections. And I'm gonna hold this out at whatever length that I think my little French bob is going to be, which is usually below the ear, right at the chin, maybe in between the chin and the ear. I'll hold that down. Take a long broad razor stroke and cut that as one length as possible, but still maintaining a soft edge to it because I'm taking a very, very broad razor stroke. Checking and seeing if I have enough texture. If I don't have enough texture to where it will separate, then I'll take a longer, broader razor stroke so I can make sure I have a softness that I'm looking for to make this easy to style and to help it flip up. Because I'm holding this parallel to the section that I'm cutting, I'm actually cutting the surface layer slightly shorter than the underneath layer. So, it's going to get more texture than the hair underneath of the section than on top of the section. That is going to encourage all of this hair to want to flip up and build a lot of movement into it. Whereas, if I was to just hold this very, very flat, take a real short razor stroke and cut from the left to the right, that would give me more movement horizontally, but not vertically. It won't allow that hair to flip up and flick out as much. It will make it move from center to the front more so. So, every way that I apply my cut with the razor is going to affect the way that the hair wants to move afterwards. After I cut my first section there, I get my length the way that I want. I do the same thing on the other side. Now, I'll take my next horizontal section as I work from the back of the head around into the side of the head. I'll take a horizontal section, hold that down, follow my previously cut guide from underneath. Check that. See how the texture looks. That looks good. And follow my guide from underneath as I work from the center back into the side of the head in front of the ear. Just continuing to comb everything clean, trying to keep my razor stroke the exact same width with each subsequent section that I cut. Now, here we're moving into the side. The one side's easy to do, but then matching the other side is a little bit more difficult. So, the first side I cut and then match it on the other side.   Also, give us a thumbs up, click the subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to take our next section, which is parallel to the section I took underneath. Start in the center again. The exact same sectioning pattern that I was using before. And I'll keep working up the head until I run out of hair. Making sure everything is cut with the same broad razor stroke until I run out of hair. Working from the center back all the way into the sides. And I'll do that on both sides. Start in the center and work to the front on each side, left and right. Checking my lengths to make sure I get the sides even. And then moving on to the next section. Here's our last section. We've got just a little bit of hair hanging off here in the back. Not a whole lot, but we've got a little bit there on the side. So, I'll make sure that we get everything smooth and cut that same length so we have a nice pleasing shape. Now, after I cut my length and I use that broad stroke, there's going to be some longer pieces that hang out. And that's what you'll see me pinching and then cutting to make sure that I don't have any real super long pieces hang out like that piece I just cut right there. Right there is another one. And anything that hangs out too long I'll cut off.   Creating Separation and Balance Now I'll go through and take a vertical section starting with a pie section from the crown all the way to the nape. I'll take out the very underneath hair that I previously cut. And now I want to go through and channel a little bit so I can get some more separation and also make sure that the top of the head the thickness matches the thickness from underneath because a lot of times people will have one area that's thicker than another area. And I want to balance those areas out so that one thick area doesn't stand out more so than another area that's thin. This will come with experience and you'll start to feel where the hair is thicker on one side, thinner on the other side, thicker on top, maybe thicker underneath. And I want to balance that out as much as I can. So going through and taking a nice vertical channel section like this is a really easy way to go through and get separation and even out the thickness throughout the entirety of the haircut.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Continuing to work from the center back all the way around into the sides until I get to the front of the head. And just being very, very methodical and trying to take out as much as needed, but not so much that I start to overly thin it and make the hair get sparse in one area. So, just be diligent and patient and methodical with your approach of your texturizing. Now, we're just going to go through and check everything out. Make sure I got the textures like I want. Make sure that we've got our lengths like we want. We can see how if we were to let that air dry, that would dry very nice and soft and disheveled, but not completely out of control.   Blowdrying Now, we're going to go through and blow it dry. And I'm going to use my hands to get some fullness underneath. And this is what I wish we could do with most clients and just pick them up, turn their head upside down, and blow it. This makes it very easy to blow the nape and get a lot of volume without me having to overwork it. Now, I'll use my hands to separate the sections on the bottom and to start encouraging my hair to flip out. That's looking good.   Final Look Here's our end result. And I think that this looks pretty good. I like the texture of it. It has this kind of anime feel to it. And obviously, the more that you exaggerate this kind of shape through here and get this to really piece out and separate, the more anime that you're going to get. If you were to allow this shape to dry naturally, it would be much smoother and closer to the head and look more natural and not be as exaggerated as this. You could also go through with a little curling iron and put a little bit of wave to it and make it look very very soft and very feminine and pretty. This shape is very versatile. The texture makes it easy to style in a hundred different ways. So add this to your repertoire and I think it will open up a world of possibilities for your clients and for you as well. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.

With all the different cut hairstyles that exist for women, some of them cross over to men's styles. The wolf haircut features longer hair with lots of texture. With feathered ends and a K-pop influence, we get a trendy look that modern men are attracted to. In this mens wolf cut hair tutorial, Russell teaches how to create this look with a razor. Follow along with the video and transcript below. Mens Wolf Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a wolf cut for a man. We're going to do a K-pop inspired wolf cut today, which means it's going to have a lot of texture to it, and it's going to build up a lot of weight in the crown and in the back of the head. So, it still looks longer and fuller, but has a tremendous amount of texture, and the base of it near the nape of the head doesn't get too bulky. We're going to show you how to apply the texture with the Feather Plier Razor and get the perfect amount of texture that looks intentional. So, let's get started. So, I'm going to start with my Feather Plier Razor. Now, I like this razor because it doesn't have a guard and it gives me the most precision and control over my cut line and exactly where and how much texture I can apply. With the sharp bare edge, we can get clean precise cuts.   Channel Cutting the Length So, I'll start in the nape here. I'm going to hold everything straight down at zero elevation and I'll go through and channel a section and then cut my length at the same time. So I will go in deep, try to cut a pretty good little pointed jag into it and then cut the length off. So I don't move my left hand at all when I'm cutting this. That way I can be assured of a fairly straight line. But because I'm going through and putting the texture in at the same time, this will save me a lot of time of having to go back in after I've already cut my perimeter shape and go back in and texture it. It does everything in one step. Now, I find that if I'm doing a very highly textured shape like we're doing today with this wolf cut, I will not go through and cut everything blunt with a pair of scissors and then go back in and try to create texture. Once I cut a blunt line into it, it's very, very difficult to go through and get the amount of texture that I really need to make this haircut pop. So, I basically end up going through and over texturizing the blunt line to try to get my separation and pieciness. Whereas, if I just go through like this, add my texture and the cut with the razor at one time, it's easier, it's less effort, and I can actually get a better, piecier result. So, here I'm moving up to my next section, holding everything straight down at zero elevation again, finding my guide from underneath, and going through and channeling and cutting it the same. And I'll go through and repeat this whole methodology up the entire back of the head until I get all of my lengths cut. I've gone through and started with a basic sectioning where I've sectioned down the center front half from the back half and then from just above the occipital bone to above the mastoid right behind the ears.   If you like this video, give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Cutting Anti-Head Shape So, after I've gone through with my basic sectioning, I'll start at the nape, get my baseline, and work that all the way up until I have the whole back half of the head finished. Now, I'm going to go through and take a center section, hold everything straight back, everything just pulled straight back through here. And then I'm going to cut a straight up and down line. I'm going to go through, determine what length I want my shortest layer to be, hold that straight back, and cut a straight up and down line. So, what this will do is this is actually cutting it anti-head shape. Head shape would be the same length from top to bottom. So anti-head shape is leaving it longer at the top and then shorter in the middle and then longer at the bottom. So this will give me a little bit of graduation that you see right there in the back. Right there how that starts to curve and give me that graduation pop. So I get that fullness from my graduation, but then it allows the hair underneath it to collapse and not get bulky.Now I'm going to walk my guide over to the left. So, I'll take my center section, add a horizontal section on the left side, pull everything into the center of both of those sections, and then follow my guide, cutting straight up and down again. But, as I was talking before about collapsing the nape, by pulling everything at the anti- head shape like this, it will elevate the hair underneath and allow it to collapse. So I don't get that very overly bulky hair right at the nape. It ends up being bulky or fuller right around the back of the head in the center like around the occipital bone. So I get that fullness and it still feels like I got some hair but it doesn't get that mud flap kind of look that you see a lot of those rednecked mullets have. So now we're going to go through and finish our next section. So, we've got section two and section three. I took out my center section. Now, I'm walking my guide over, and I'm continuing to pull everything straight back, you know, parallel to my previous section. Straight back. There's my guide underneath. And we're just going to go through and cut this. Now, the thing is, when you're cutting with a guardless razor, I need to be respectful of the blade. I can touch myself and it won't cut me. It's when that blade touches me and then moves left or right, that's when I start to really cut myself. But I still want to be respectful of this because these blades are very, very sharp, which makes it easy to go through and cut. But it's too easy to go through and cut myself if I get sloppy with it. There is no other tool on the market that will give you this type of look and this type of texture and result. So, I have to learn to respect the tool and then I can use it and get its maximum potential. Last section here. Pulling everything straight back. Making sure all of it blends through with my layering. And I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. That's looking pretty good. Now, here's the entire back finished. I have a nice amount of layer through the back. I get a little buildup of weight right there around the occipital bone, and then everything else under it collapses and flips. And that's the look I'm going for is this kind of flippy piecey kind of wolfy type of shape.   Cutting the Front for Movement So now we're going to section off high on the recession on the side of the head. I'm going to take an angle diagonally back that's going to be parallel to my hairlines. I'm going to pull this forward and then cut it back. So the line is actually kind of straight horizontal, but by me pulling it forward, that's actually going to introduce movement and force this hair to flow back. And you can see right there how it starts to make that hair swing back. So by pulling it forward, I cut the front slightly shorter than I cut the back. And by putting my angle into it, it ends up being a much more horizontal line, but I introduce all of that movement into it. Now, I'm not trying to insert my texture and cut the length here at the same time. I just want to focus on cutting my length and cutting the shape because it's going to be hard to go through on this type of methodology and insert texture and cut the length at the same time. It's easier to do horizontal when I start angling things like this. I want to do it in two steps. So, I'm pulling everything forward, cutting it about right to the tip of the nose, and then angling that back. Once I finish all of this here and I get everything cut to the length that I think I want, then I'll go through and start taking a section in the back of the head and angling that down into the nape.   Blending the Front with the Back So, I'll section off the top and the back here. And then angle. This angle here is going to be parallel to the first section that I took, which is going to be parallel to my hairline right there behind the ear. Now, we're going to pull this straight out from the head at 90° using the length that I established by pulling everything forward. Then, I will go through and cut that straight up and down and blend that into the length in the nape of the hair. So right there, just pulling everything out. I don't have as much hair to cut here because I've already cut the length and I've already cut my layering. This is to make sure that the sides and the back blend together. We'll check that. See how that's looking? I like that. That's pretty good. So now I'm going to continue on doing this same type of sectioning all the way to the center of the back of the head. So continuing parallel sections to my previous section and then holding it straight out to the side of the head. So I'm basically cutting a big box type of shape where it's got a corner right there behind the ear. It's got a corner on the other side and it's got a corner right in the crown. Oh, we missed that little part right there. But there's not much to cut so we'll leave it. Now we're going to get to the center. Pulling everything over. Making sure nothing really hangs over. This is just making sure that everything kind of blends through. Not a whole lot to take through here. So, being very careful, very judicious with my cut and just making sure everything blends through. Now, in the beginning when I went through and took my middle part and then I sectioned off the front of the head from the back of the head and then the nape section out. So this is my quarter part back blending. That's a mouthful right there. So what I'm doing is the section that I cut underneath vertically at the ear to make sure everything blended from the sides down into the nape. Now I'm taking the back half of the head on top and making sure that that blends through with the hair that I've cut underneath. I don't want any hair from the top hanging over and being disconnected from the hair underneath. I want this all to blend through perfectly. We got all that blended through there.   Layering from Back to Front Now, we're going to go through and take a center section. This is a mohawk section from the front all the way to the back. Right there at the crown, I'm going to use that length as the guide for my layering. I'll pull this straight up. Cut this 90° from the head. And working from back to front. And I want to just cut this all the same length going from back to front. When I'm doing this type of layering with a Plier Razor, I have to be mindful of my sectioning. And one way that I can go through and apply this cut line cleanly without being worried that I'm going to cut myself is I have to make sure the hair that's holding the hand is gripping it for life. I mean, it's got a death grip on that section so it doesn't fall out. And then when I apply the razor to this section, gently applying it using the razor motion of up and down to cut, I can go through and cut nice and clean lines without worrying about cutting myself. After I cut the center section, I'm going to take my next parallel section, working to the side, hold those two sections up into the middle. There's my guide from underneath. There we go. There we go. Perfect. And then I'll go through and blend everything through. Anything that hangs over past my guide, I'll cut up. I got a death grip on my section there. This takes a little bit of practice. I would really recommend that before you start layering hair with a razor like this that you take a mannequin head, you practice, you get comfortable with it, and you do it very methodically and very slowly. Don't try to move fast. Moving fast is the enemy of cutting clean sections and clean hair. there My last section. Everything blending through onto the right side of the head. Anything that hangs over from the top, I'll go through and just cut off. Methodically working that through. There we go. Very little to cut there. I think I got a little bit. There we go.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Razored Bangs After I finish everything on the right side, I'll do the left side. And now we're going to section off the hair around the front. I'm going to pull the center of that right down to the tip of the nose. And I'm going to go through and razor that length off. That's the length I want my fringe to be. So I'm pulling that straight forward. Cutting that the length I want. Now we're going to split that in half. I'll take the entire right side of the head through here. There's my length that I cut at the sides and I'll blend that through with the little short piece that I cut right there at the front center of the face. Work that all the way through. Blend that all the way through. There we go. Perfect. Just like that. Now, going a little shorter in the middle is going to leave it a little longer towards the side. Wherever hair is shorter, it will move to where hair is longer. There's my length right through there. There's my guide. There it is. Right there. Now, we're going to cut that through. So, shorter hair always flows to longer hair. So if I want to create movement, cut one side shorter and the other side longer. And also because of the razor motion through here, because I'm razoring it from the center to the sides, that will introduce movement as well. Now in the back, I applied texture and length at the same time. Around the front, I couldn't do that. So now we're going to go through and add our texture and thinning around the front. These mannequin heads can get a little thick and sometimes your client's hair is very very thick and you need to go through and add more texture than you think that it needs. There are other times where the hair is a little bit finer where you don't add as much texture. So, you have to use your own discernment to apply the amount of texture that the section needs. Every person's head is going to be different. Every hair texture is going to be different. And this is something that will come with experience of you practicing.   Adding More Seamless Texture Now, we're going to go through and just start applying a little bit of texture all the way around the front half of the head because we've already applied it in the back and we won't need that there. I will go through and check it to make sure, but we want the same type of texture throughout the entirety of the haircut. Going through and just methodically applying a little bit of texture here or there or wherever it needs it. There we go. Perfect. Now, as I start to move in the back here, you can see it's already got pretty pretty good amount of texture. So, I don't need a whole lot through there. Maybe a little maybe not. Yeah, right there. That's looking good. Now, we're just going to go through and do this same type of texturizing throughout the rest of the head, throughout the front of the head (not the back, because we already did that) until everything matches and it blends seamlessly, not only from a length point of view, but also from a texture point of view. I did go through and change the blade about halfway through this haircut. Some types of hair dull blades faster than others, and it usually tends to be the thicker, coarser types of hair that will dull the blade faster. So, I don't want to go through and start pushing hair and not end up with a clean line. So, if I need to change a blade, I'll change a blade. I know some stylists that will use the same blade for years. And I'm telling you, your haircuts are going to suffer from it.   Final Mens Wolf Haircut Look Here's our end result. And I think it's looking pretty nice. I'm checking everything to make sure our texture is good. And there we go. This is our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. Got a lot of great texture to it. And I think by pulling it straight out in the back, it gives it this nice fullness in the back, but we can still have it hyper layered underneath. It doesn't need much styling if the hair is cut right. Razor cut haircuts can do just that. So, we got a lot of texture to it and a lot of separation. And I don't know how these guys wear this hair in their face like that, but they do. That's the style. And this is very reminiscent of what you would see in in K-pop right now over in Korea with a lot of the really hyper trendy guys. And I think that it adds something. It adds some softness with having long hair, but it still keeps its style without being super messy. And this works really well on wavy hair or loose curl hair. I probably wouldn't do this on the curliest of hair. And I think that this would work really well on finer textures of hair, maybe not as much texture as we've done here. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. You have a question or comment, please leave it below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.  

In this tutorial we look at a textured bob haircut that's stylish and modern. With lots of movement and separation this is a bob cut perfect for the new year! If you're looking for bob haircut ideas as a hairstylist, this one says 2026. Bob haircuts will always be in style and with a wide variety of bob hairstyles, textured hair gives the most modern look. Watch this video and follow along with the transcript below.    Textured Bob Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an experiment in a double layered overt bob. Double layered means it's going to have more layering than you think a bob can have. Overt because we're going to open everything up and show you exactly how to do it. Is it still going to look like a bob with that much layering? Yes, it will. Still going to be a bob. Alright, so let's get started. Let's start with some sectioning here. We're going to take a side section to the quarter part, then down to the nape. And then we're going to section out right behind the ear.   Establishing the Length I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the limited edition wood-look. I'm also using the Standard Blade. Starting on the side, I'm going to take a little section of hair right above the ear and use that to get the lengths balanced on both sides. This is also going to be my length for when I go through and hold this straight up in the air and layer it. So, I see that piece falling out. That's the length that I'm going to use as my guide to cut that length right through there. By cutting my length guide first and using that as my layering guide, it prevents me from cutting my layering too short. You'll also see me using that length that I cut initially as the visual for me to pinch cut all this length here and start to build my one length shape. So by pinching a little section of hair that wants to separate together, that's going to allow me to build up a bob-like shape without going through and cutting everything perfectly blunt. So, by leaving it a little haphazard and some sections a little longer and some a little shorter, I can get a lot of movement through it without it being really hard or blunt. And the more movement that I have, the more visually interesting that the shape can be and the more ways that I can style it and the broader range of hair textures that I can put this shape on. After we've done one side, we've got it like we want, we'll go through and match that to the other side until both sides match. Now, I'll start in the center of the nape.   Collapsing the Shape I'm going to pull this center part of the section straight up in the air and cut that about an inch longer than my parting right there at the occipital bone. Now, granted this is very, very short right here in the nape, but because I'm pulling it up, it's going to leave me length on the bottom. But it's also going to collapse the shape. So, it's going to keep the shape from being too thick and too bulky and not having that same movement that I'm going to have on the sides. So, I can match the fluidity and the movement from the back into the sides. Now, I'll just match this on both sides. Pull everything straight up using the center section as my initial guide and blending it towards each side. There we go. A good look at it right there. Going from center out. Just keeping the same broad razor stroke that I was using throughout. Once I got that done, check it out.   Blending Around the Ears Now, we're going to go through and blend the section right behind the ear. We're going to hold that straight up in the air just like I did the other sections underneath, but this time I'm using the length that I used on the sides, not the length I used in the back. I'm going to match this on both sides. So, I'm leaving a little bit more length and a little bit more density right behind the ear because that section of the head doesn't have as much hair. So, it gives me a good way to blend. And by having that a little bit weightier and a little bit heavier, (that kind of looks like a cool mullet right there by the way) but by having that section behind the ear a little weightier and heavier, it also makes my bob a little stronger. If I was to layer that as much as I had layered the back, my bob shape is not going to be as strong.   Addressing the Back Now, we're going to hold everything straight down. I'm going to cut my one length that I choose in the back. I'll take a little bit of weight out right through there and then just lay the blade flat across the section and cut my one length right in the back. Now, I'm not worried about this being the same length all the way around for a one length bob. I want to bevel this a little bit towards the sides. So, I'm going to leave it a little longer in the back and then round my corner out as I start working from the back into the sides. I want that kind of bevel.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Short Front, Long Back I have been fascinated with a lot of the Asian bobs that we're seeing and they're all beveled around the front. A little shorter in the back and a little, I'm sorry, a little shorter in the front and longer in the back. And I find that very visually interesting when it's coming to these bob shapes. Now, we're going to take a little section right in the front, right there in the center of the front section of the head. I'm going to comb that down. And this is going to be the guide for my shortest layer. It's not going to be the bangs. It's going to be the guide for the shortest layer. I'll take a center section, hold that straight up and using that short little piece that I just cut as my guide, I'm going to start cutting from shorter to longer. So, I'm trying to keep this idea and this feeling of shorter around the face, a little longer in the back, but I don't want it to be completely bi-level. I want it to blend through. So, by holding this straight up and cutting my layering from short to long in the back, I can remove more weight around the front, but still have a good solid bob shape. But it introduces movement where it flows around the front a little bit more. Because it's shorter in the front, longer in the back, hair flows to its longest piece. I'll take a parallel section, hold that straight up into the center of the head, following my initial guide, and then razor that through just as I did in my previous section. I'm taking a pretty large section here. And then also with the hair underneath as my guide, that's a pretty thick section. So, if you can't work in sections as big as I am, it's easy to take much smaller sections. Again, pulling everything to the center of the head using my guide lengths from underneath. And anything that hangs over that I get to cut off. Keeping the same razor stroke that I was underneath, now I'll take everything on this side of the head. The underneath is going to fall out, but anything on the rest of the head, I'm going to pull up into the center and cut those lengths off. Make sure you keep a good firm grip on the hair and it makes it easier to cut. Now, after I finish the left side, I will go through and do the exact same thing on the right side. After I finish both sides and it's looking the way I want, I'll take a center section again and start blending that through the back. I'll take my center section in the back. I'll hold that straight up. You'll see my guide length from the front right through there. And then I'll continue cutting that length all the way back. But I'm not increasing my length as I go back like I did in the front. I'm cutting everything just horizontal straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   So after we cut that all the way down till we run out of hair, I'll take a parallel section just like I did in the front. Hold that up into the center again. And using my guide from underneath, anything that hangs over, I will cut off. As I'm working these layers through into the nape, I'm not increasing the length. I'm keeping it the same. Or I could layer it down and bevel the shape a little bit more depending upon the thickness of the hair. And I'll just keep working this section over until I run out of hair on the right side. Then I'll go through and do the exact same thing on the left side. There we go. Looking good. And you can see that long little corner right through there, right behind the ear because the hairline behind the ear doesn't have any hair. So I need to add a little bit more weight to make sure I can keep my bob shape.   Beveling Now I'm going to start right in the center just like I was doing underneath on the sides. I'll take a little section. I'll pinch it into my fingers and then cut that until I can bevel it. So, I'll start cutting on one side, then maybe on the other side. And I want to keep piecing that out and just little pinches of hair so I can start fitting my bob shape in. This is where the bob starts to really pop. But by going through and doing this, it gives me a lot of movement and a lot of variation and a lot of softness, but it doesn't build up an overly strong structured shape. And I just keep working that all the way around until I get the shape looking like I want on my perimeter. So in this shape, I've gone through and layered it first and then cut my perimeter shape into it. 99% of the time I will go through, cut my perimeter shape and then layer it. If I go through and I'm trying to get a lot of texture and a lot of lightness and a lot of airiness in it, by cutting the perimeter first, I've already made it too solid and it's very, very difficult to get that solidity out of it once I put it in.   The Bangs Now, we're going to go through and take our little section right around the front and make sure that that blends into where my shortest layer was. So, I'll start in the center and just bevel that a little longer towards the corners on the sides. So, it's shorter in the middle, a little longer towards the left and a little longer towards the right. Now, after I've got everything fit in, I'm going to go through and put a little undercut bang right here in the front. I think a little undercut will give it a little bit more airiness and poppiness around the front without being overly solid or overly styled. So, we're going to start in the center doing the same thing. Just pinching into a little section. Cutting it visually as I see it needs to be cut. Doing the same thing on both sides. Shorter in the center, a little longer as it goes towards each side. Now, this shape offers a lot of variation depending upon hair types like the thickness or the thinness of the hair. You could even do this on curly hair, but I might use a scissor to point cut it as opposed to a razor depending on the texture of the hair.   Textured Bob with Bangs Final Look  After I get all that done, I'm going to go through and blow it dry. And you can really see the texture popping here. And I like it. Here's our end result. And I think that we have a really strong bob shape to it even though we have double layered it. We've layered it underneath so much that it barely has any shape at all. But we still have a strong perimeter shape. We've layered the top maximum layer that you can get into it with a razor, but yet we still have a strong solid bob shape. And I think the benefit of going through and razoring the layering first and controlling how much layering we're taking out and then going back in and putting in our perimeter shape, it really helps us control exactly how strong of a perimeter shape that we put into it. Add this textured bob cut with layers to your repertoire. Experiment with it a little bit. Get your doll head and play around and I think it will open up a whole new world of possibilities for your layering and your razoring. If you're looking for bob ideas or specifically textured bobs, this one is a good one to pin.  Please check out the Jatai Academy. There are all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. There are also a ton of other not so classic and classic bob tutorials. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, post below. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you then.  

Let's take a look at the famous David Cassidy hairstyle popularized in the 70s. This Partridge family icon made the men's shag haircut a fashion statement for the times. In this tutorial you will learn how to cut the original classic 70s shag that David wore and bring it back to life, not the modern version of it. Why? Because sometimes learning how to cut classic styles can inspire new creativity in your haircutting as the techniques are totally different from modern haircutting.  Watch this David Cassidy 1970s shag haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.    David Cassidy Hairstyle Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of the original 60s-70s man shag made popular by David Cassidy. His hair was iconically 70s and made the shag popular. Now this is the original version of the shag, not the modern reinterpretation of it where it's really highly textured. This is going to be the original. So, we make sure that we get the layering in it really short to get fullness on top. Make sure you get some bangs in it. Get the feathers because the feathers are very, very important. They're imperative to have in this shape. So, we're going to show you how to do all that. So, let's get started.   Pulling Everything  Up So, let's go through and section everything out before we even start cutting to make sure that we can work as cleanly as possible. Take a center section to the crown from the high point of the head to the top of the ear. Then in the back half of the head, I'm going to take the center section out. It's probably about a 3-in wide section. I'm using my Feather Styling Razor. This is the one with the guard. And the blade is very, very sharp on these Feather Styling Razors. So, I can work with a very large, thick section of hair as long as I'm patient as I go through and use my razor motion. I'll cut that right at the top of the crown. I'll continue on taking section by section and pulling that into my original section. So, the first section was held straight up at the crown. Everything else is going to be pulled up into the crown as well. So, by pulling everything into the crown and having a stationary guide, that's actually going to give me an inconsistency in my elevation. So the first section's held at 90° straight up and then everything else gets held at a greater elevation. So that allows me to build up an increase of length very very quickly, but it also gives me an inconsistent weight distribution which will cause the shape to collapse. So I'll get a lot of fullness at the crown, but as it continues onto the perimeter, the shape is not going to be as round and as full. So, it's going to be fuller on top, less full on the sides, which is really iconic of the 70s type of look for this type of classic shag. So, we're going to continue section by section, pulling everything straight up into my original section and just being patient with the razor. I'm not trying to force and muscle the razor through the hair. I'm allowing the razor to do the work by just laying it against the sections of hair. So, it's the razor motion that's actually doing the cut. It's not me pressuring it against the hair. If I start pressuring it against the hair, I'll actually start pushing the hair and it's going to dull the blade fairly fairly quick. So, just the razor motion is what's cutting it. Pulling everything up to the center again until I run out of hair. Now, we're going to go through and take the center section, split that in half, use one half of the center as my guide for the left and one half for the right. Starting at the top again, right at the crown. Pulling everything straight up into the crown. Using my center section as my guide and cutting that straight across. Everything gets pulled up. The same sort of methodology I was doing in the back. And just using my guide and trying to be right on top of the guide as I cut that forward.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we got our last section right here on the left side. Pulling everything up and just following my guide and making sure everything blends where I've cut the original guide at the top. Checking out my layering on both sides. And I think we got that short enough. Now, we're going to go through and take a center section using the guide at my original crown section that I cut. Pull that straight up into the center of the head and then cut that forward. Now, when I cut this section, I cut it too long. I didn't feel like it was short enough. So, I've gone back on this and cut it about an inch shorter. So, it's important to kind of monitor your lengths and make sure that they're appropriate as you're working towards the finish of the haircut because once you get finished, you don't want to go back and do the whole haircut again. So, I'm going to try to check and make sure I cut it the right lengths as I'm going through step by step as opposed to trying to catch it at the very end. Now, we're going to continue working down towards the the perimeter of the head, pulling everything straight up into the center, following my original guide, and cutting that short. Now, when I'm layering this, it is quite a bit shorter than I would layer most hair for this particular length. It feels a little uncomfortable, but practicing on a doll head really helps you get over that fear of cutting it too short, which is something that's been instilled in us since beauty school, the fear of cutting everything too short. Now, we're going to continue to pull everything straight up into the middle of the head. There's my guide from underneath. And continue to cut everything that hangs over that off.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @jataifeather   Continuing to work that forward until I run out of hair. After I've cut the other side, I'm going to go back and now I'm going to cut the perimeter shape.   Cutting the Perimeter Shape I'll take a horizontal section across the nape area. Hold that straight down. Wherever I want this length to be, that's what I'm going to cut straight across. Using the razor to give me just a little bit of texture on the ends to soften it up, but I'm still keeping this shape fairly blunt. You know, I'm trying to keep it with the original feeling of the 70s shag. And it was a blunt shape. It was a blunt cut. It wasn't real overly textured. I'm putting a little bit of texture in it to keep it a little more modern, but I want the shape to be really representative of what the original haircut was, which was overly layered on the top, very, very blunt but with a lot of movement to it. So, we're holding everything down. Once we get our perimeter length cut, then we shall move on to the front. One more little piece right there we go. Perfect.   The Bangs Now, we're going to section out our bang section. I'm going to take about half of that so I can start face framing our bangs here. I'm going to comb that first center section straight down with no tension at all. Cut that right at the bridge of the nose. I'll take a blunt little shape and then put a little bit of softening into it as I cut that shape across. So, it's giving me a blunt shape, but then that one razor stroke really softens it up a little bit, but I'm not trying to make the whole thing real super soft. I want to keep a solid shape but give it a little bit of airiness so that one long razor stroke helps lighten it up without it getting too piecey or too light. There we go. We've got that. I like the lengths there. Now, we're going to continue and see if anything else hangs over. And anything that hangs over, we're going to cut off. Holding that straight down just like I cut the original section. Anything that hangs over. Boom. There we go. Got that off. Now I'm going to go through and take a little bit in the center underneath and just lighten this piece up because I noticed that in a lot of the photos that I studied that he had a little bit of lightness right at the center where it kind of feathered back. So I'm taking a little bit of that bang out and making it lighter.   Blending Now, we're going to take a diagonal section. I'm going to pull everything on the side of the head straight forward. I'm not worried if this blends in with my perimeter length. If it does, great. If it doesn't, that's okay. We're going to keep it disconnected. But I want to make sure that I pull everything straight forward and cut that off. And this is where my feathers are coming from is because I'm pulling it all straight forward and blending it in with the bangs. If I don't blend it in with the bangs, it tends to not really have that feathery look to it. So, it has to blend with the bangs. After I've pulled everything forward, I'll comb everything straight down. And anything that gets revealed from the underneath hairline, I'll go through and make sure that that blends through. Pulling everything straight forward from the back and seeing if anything hangs over, which it doesn't look like there's a whole lot. So, we're just going to make sure that that all blends through. There we go. Perfect. I like that. Now, let's blow everything dry. Pull everything forward and blow it back. And then lean his head over and blow everything dry to get it nice and full and voluminous. Then use a vent brush just to polish everything off and get it all moving righteously.   Final Look And here's our end result. And I think that we're looking pretty good. We got the key elements of the shape and we got the proportions right. You know, the key things are over layering it more on top than you think you need to, pulling everything forward on the sides and cutting that nice and short and so that you have this, you know, disconnect right here at the top of the ear. And it makes everything feather back. And we got just the right amount of texture to it. And because of the way we layered it, it makes this top really full, but then collapses the weight on the sides. And by collapsing it, it forces the bottom to flip. So this is a very versatile shape. If you have someone that wants really short full layers on top and wants it kind of out of their face. Sometimes a study of the old classic shapes can really break you out of your creative box because this really will test you because if you're used to doing modern shapes, they're not anywhere close to this. This breaks a lot of modern rules by layering it so short and by pulling everything forward and feathering it all back. But I still think it looks pretty good. I think it's really cool. If I had hair, I'm telling you, this is what I'd be wearing. I think it looks great. Feathers are very, very important. You have to have the feathers if you're going to do a 70s hardcore shag. Anyway, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstyles and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time.  

The Vidal Sassoon 5 point haircut is one of the most iconic haircuts of the 60s and 70s. Alongside the Vidal styles he created for Grace Coddington and Nancy Kwan, the 5 point cut is often synonymous with the Mary Quant haircut. Professional hairdressing at the time was dominated by Sassoon cuts and Vidal made a statement in the fashion industry with his iconic cuts, salons and books. Today we can re-imagine Vidal Sassoon haircuts in a lighter, softer way. With the five point haircut, we can still maintain the geometric haircut shape but give it a modern look.  Watch this Sassoon 5 point haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to do a challenge. It's a challenge for me to do this iconic Sassoon five-point haircut that was so... it really is what kickstarted Sassoon's career and really created the whole aesthetic of the late 60s and early 70s with this mod look. It's real solid with a beveled bang, two points on the side, three points in the back, but we're going to modernize it and do it with a razor. It's a challenging haircut, but we're going to show you how to soften it, give it a lot more versatility, and add a lot more texture to it if you want. So, let's get started.   Graduating the Back I'm going to start here with a horizontal section from the crown to the top of the ears. And then we're going to take a vertical section right down the middle. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so there is no protection on this. So, you needs to be extra careful. And it is extremely sharp, but it also gives me the most control over cutting a section of hair. And I'm going to go through and graduate this section in the back. Take a parallel section to that and continue to work all the way over to one side by walking my guide. So, I'm going to pull it out. I'm going to visualize what length of the top of the graduation is going to be, where it hits the ear. So, I'm kind of visualizing where that top of the parting section is, and I want to kind of see where that's going to hit the ear. And then I'm tapering it down, graduating it down shorter around the nape. As I cut the center section, that's my guide. And then I start to walk my sections all the way over to the left. So, I'll take the next section, add it to the previously cut section. So, I will remove the previously cut section, and then add to that. So, here I'm taking my next section, and I'm removing all the other hair. So, I only have the previously cut section and the section that I'm cutting. Holding that straight out in the center of both of those sections and cutting from long to short. Longer at the top, shorter in the nape. And I'm leaving a little bit of extra length there at the nape so that I can make sure I can get my points very defined. Working all the way over to the side. Now I'm getting in right behind the ear. And I'm just following the same guide that I started in the center back. Walking that all the way over to the ear. I can change the angle of graduation that I want. If I want it to stack up a little bit more, if I want it to be a little bit more even like this. It's all dependent upon the angle of graduation that I create. And here's the end result on the left side. We're going to take our center guide and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Once I finish that, I'll take my next horizontal section, which is going to be the center of the recession all the way right back to the crown. Take a vertical section in the center and then follow that same angle of graduation that I was doing underneath up and out. So I'm basically graduating and stacking the whole back so that I get a nice pleasing round head shape in the back. So by leaving this longer in the crown, it's actually going to bevel the shape and make it look much more pleasing in the crown. If I tend to change the angle here and go straight up, it tends to make the back of the head look flat. So here I'm doing exactly what I was doing underneath. Taking my previous guide as I'm walking that all the way around to the side and then blending that in with the hair that was cut underneath. Once I get to the quarter part here, I'll start to pivot my angle and the parting is changing. So no longer is it just straight up and down, but it's actually pivoting and leaving a little bit more length in the front. So each section I take is a diagonal pie section off of that hairline. I'm sorry, off of that parting right at the quarter part using the guide that I had created originally from the back. Working that longer as I get around the front. So I'm almost getting like a little bob shape around the front. Now, it's not going to be a bob shape in the end because I am going to cut it out over the ears, but this certainly gives me and saves enough length around the front so that I can work everything in nice and smooth. Then from here, after I got that shaped like I want, do the same thing on the other side.   Building Weight on Top Now, I'll take my next horizontal section and I'll take this all the way around the head. And from here, I'm no longer going to cut vertically. I'm going to hold each section horizontally out. So, by holding each section horizontally off the peak curvature of the head, I start to build up a little bit more weight on the top of the head. So, a vertical section is going to be less solid than if I take a horizontal section. So, I want it less solid underneath. So, I take vertical sections. More solid on the top. So, I reserve some length. I take horizontal sections. And then I'll just continue to work that from the center of the back all the way around into the sides and to the front. Now, this blade is very, very sharp as all the Feather blades are. But since this doesn't have a guard, I have to be a little extra mindful so that I don't end up cutting myself. But the benefit of this is that since it doesn't have a guard, it's very easy to get the exact cut line that I want. And that's the beauty of the Plier Razor is that it gives you the most control and the cleanest cut of any of the razors that I have. Now, I'm going to continue to work this section all the way up into the center of the head. So, I'm just going to keep following the same type of methodology that I was working before. That got a little bit long. So, we're going to take a little bit more off. And I'll continue to work this until I end up with all the hair on the top being cut into the side lengths.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, detailing this a little bit to make sure I get the line as clean as I want. I can just pinch a little piece of hair off and then lay the razor right on top of it. And that pinching gives me the tension and allows me to get a nice clean cut. So, I'll work this all the way up into the center of the head. The same thing I was doing before. That curvature of the head shows me where the parietal ridge is. That's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. So, I get a nice stack of graduation and just following the previously cut guide. Now, this haircut is going to require a tremendous amount of detailing, especially as I'm getting that beveling around the front, but I'll show you how to do that. So, you can see certain stages of this haircut where you think, okay, well, that looks pretty good just like that. So, you can stop there. You don't have to go through and bevel this. There's a lot of options and a lot of versatility with this type of haircut.   Beveling the Front So, I'll take a section around the front of the head from the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear. I'll hold everything straight down. Start cutting where I want my bevel line to be around the front. So, the bangs in the center, that's where I'm going to start and then clean that up. Now, you'll see here I'll lay the hair on my finger and then just use the blade to scrape anything off that doesn't quite fit and isn't as clean as I want. There we go. Just pinching that up and getting that nice and clean. There we go. I like that length there. Now, we're going to continue to work that into the sides into the point right there in front of the ear. So, I'll pick a guide from the center and then I'll angle my fingers to match the angle of my face framing and that beveling around the front. And then I will cut that line into it. And then I'll start with a nice even cut. Try to get it as clean as I can and then look at it and then fine-tune it as I need to. Like right here, there's something that doesn't match. So, I'm going to pull that forward. Cut a little bit of that off. Make sure that I take my time and fitting everything in because this haircut is going to show every fault and flaw that you have. And so, you have to take your time to get it to fit just right. And right there, that was good. That makes everything flow right from the center of the bangs into the corner right there where my point is in front of the ear. Now I'm combing everything forward like a little bowl cut. Take my section from underneath as my guide and then go through and cut the rest of the hair on top of it directly on top of my guide. I try to keep the razor stroke exactly the same throughout each section so that I can maintain the same amount of weight and the same amount of texture. I don't want to start with a real loose razor stroke underneath and then go with a real tight one on top. I want to keep everything even. And then if I need to go back in and take some weight out, then I can go through and purposely take weight out. I want to be very, very methodical. Even though I'm using a razor, which is a softer, more free type of cut, I still want to respect the methodology that I'm going through and cutting. And here I'll keep combing. Comb and comb and look and see where it doesn't fit. See where I need to clean it up. It needs to be cleaned up right there. So the same thing. Pull forward. See where it's not blending. And then fine-tune.   Fine-Tuning Now right here, I'm going to take my quarter part and right on top of the ear, I'm going to pull out a piece of hair, pinch that, and cut that real short. Right there. Not on top of the ear, shorter than the ear, but laying right on the top of it. Then I'll take a section at a diagonal going from the ear down into the nape. And here I'm going to switch it up. And since I was using my Feather Plier Razor, now I'm going to switch it up and use my Feather Styling Razor in the limited edition wood grain. So this way I can really get in there and fine-tune more without fear of having to cut myself because sometimes I need to fine-tune more than I need the cleanliness and the control of what the Plier provides me. So this way I can go through and get a really nice clean shape and I can continue to fine-tune without fear of cutting myself. And now I'll just start pinching over the ear and making sure everything blends like I want. And then pinching around the front, making sure that all blends. And I just keep fine-tuning it as I need to. This is a shape that just requires a lot of refinement to make sure it really falls in like you want it to. Now here I'm going to exaggerate my points in the back. These are the three major points in the back. So, I'm going to make sure that we can really arc that hairline out to get my kind of Batman kind of tail and then the wings on the side. I felt like the front was probably a little too thick and a little too solid. And since I wanted a modern version of this, I'm going to go through and razor a little bit, flat razor it to take some of that weight out. This is going to give me a nice lightness and softness and airiness to it so that when I blow it dry, I'll have a lot more versatility to it. And here there's something right there, right there at the corner of the eye that I just don't like. And I'm going to keep cleaning it up until I get it perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media, @jataifeather   Blowdrying, Styling and the End Result Once I get all my detailing finished like I want, I'm going to go through and start blowing dry. And then I'm going to use my Du-Boa styling brush to dry everything very, very neutral back and forth and back and forth until I can get everything nice and smooth and neutral and as much fullness as I want to so where I can whip the hair back and forth. After that, I'm going to put a little bit of texture paste on it just to enable me to get a little bit of separation and to make the shape really, really pop. Now, I think this looks pretty good. All right, here is our end result of our modern day five point. We got the key points here. We got three in the back. We got one on one side, a nice little bevel to point on the other side. Final Look And I think that the razor really adds a nice texture to this and makes it look really modern and fresh. You know, this is a very challenging haircut for a lot of people to do, especially me. But even to take it a step further and do it with a razor, I really think modernizes this really hardcore 70's Sassoon, 60's Sassoon kind of look. So something to add to your repertoire, something to practice. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. And also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. We'll see you next time. Thanks for watching.  

When we think of a Halle Berry short haircut, the first thing that comes to mind is the pixie cut. The Halle Berry short straight hair pixie haircut is her iconic red carpet look that has captivated her beauty and fashion forward hairstyles. In this tutorial Russell Mayes, re-creates this celebrity Halle Berry haircut using a Feather Styling Razor for an easy, soft look. With bangs to compliment the face and a little styling he creates a splitting image of the Halle Berry pixie cut. Watch this  video and follow along with the transcript. Halle Berry Short Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. And today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to do a pixie inspired by Halle Berry. She has great pixies and they're all different kind of lengths from really short and really clean to a little longer, a little more medium. But the things that I think they have in common is they're all almost the same length all the way around. So, we're going to show you how to get a little bit of softness around the edges without it looking mullety. We're going to show you how to get the right texture to it so you can have some fullness and some length without it starting to feel bulky and kind of old-fashioned.   Sectioning So, to get started here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. So, separating the bottom of the head, I can work with just the short part. Then the top part's going to be a lot easier once I got all this fitted in. Because to make sure that this gets fitted in around the edges and still be feminine is something that's going to take a little bit of detailing. So, we're going to deal with that first. Deal with the hard parts first. I'm going to take the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part. Quarter part to the occipital bone. That's going to give me the whole right underneath side. Now, from here, I'm going to section off at an angle right at the front of the hairline, which is going to be parallel to this hairline right behind the ear and parallel to that hairline right at the front. I find that by going parallel to my partings, it has a nicer flow to it and it fits the head shape better if I work within the boundaries of the hairline.   Starting on the Sides Now, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor and the limited edition wood grain. This is my favorite. I think it looks cool. And I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut more hair at one time. But I do have to be a little more conscientious because it is exposing a little bit more blade. So, we're going to start right here in the front at my first angle. And I think that what really makes this kind of pixie pop and still is a little feminine. I've looked at a lot of pictures of Halle Berry's haircut and a lot of them will have a little bit of graduation here on the side. So, I'm going to start putting a little bit of graduation into it, but we have to be careful to not get too much weight stacking up so that it starts to look kind of frumpy. So, that determines I'm going to take a very broad stroke so that I can cut my shape and cut my length without building up a whole lot of weight. So, I'm going to take hold of this parallel and then my fingers will determine what angle of graduation that I'm going to start with. So, I'm going to start with something about there. And I'm going to take a very broad razor stroke all the way down and through. Now, at this point, I want to look at it and see how that's fitting in. I like the lengths of it, but I can tell already that it's going to start building up too much weight. So, as I start to go through, I may start doing some channel cutting to remove some of that weight. Our next section, which is parallel to that first section, comb this into the first section. Hold out from the head. Find the angle that I was working on before. There it is underneath. I can see that. Try to take a nice broad razor stroke like I was doing before. Cut that all the way down and through. And then check and see. And I think we've got a little too much length here on the top. So before I start going all the way through, I'm going to take some of that length off the top. And I think that that's looking better already. That's looking better. Now I'm gonna go through and put a little bit of delicate channeling through here to remove some of that weight and see how it's looking. There we go. I like that. Now we're going to take our next section which is going to be parallel. And I'm running that all the way down in through the nape. So I've got my first, second, now my third section. I'll remove the first section. Now I will have the second and third section. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A nice broad stroke as we go down and through. That's looking pretty good. Now, right here, as I get to the middle of the ear, I can either choose to have more length down here on the bottom and make it kind of a waif-ish pixie, or I can fit this in really tight. Hold this parallel, same stroke, and cut this parallel to my parting. So, that's my parting. That's the line I'm cutting. Now, we're going to take our next section, which is going to be parallel to the same. And I'm going to keep working this same methodology until I get to the center back of the head. Now, we're going to take the last section right here, holding it out from the head with the previously cut section as my guide. Cut that down and through. And I like that. I'm going to take a little bit of channeling through here just to remove some weight and create a little separation. So now I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side.   Back Half of the Head All right. So I've gone through and separated the front half from the back half of the head. It's very important that I make this back half fit in and follow a head shape. If it starts to get too short, I'll make the head look flat in the back. And then that looks really ridiculous. And nobody wants to have a flat head. Take my center section. Now, when I hold this out from the head, I can see the angle of graduation that I already have here underneath. And I want to continue that up and bevel it out. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A little bit longer as I start to go up. Once I go past one flat section, I will go to the next flat section. Hold that 90 degrees. There's my length. Continue that up. When I get to the top, all the way and through. Now, from here, I'm going to pivot from the center piece that I had up there and make a little pie section as I work around to the side. Hold these two together. There's my guide from underneath and follow the same shape that I was working on underneath as I work back up following my guideline.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Pivoting again. Remove the center guideline that I had. So now I only have section two and section three. Fold this up and out. There's my guide from underneath. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Follow that all the way up to the very top. Then I'm just going to continue working this until I reach my quarter part. There's my guide from underneath and my previously cut guide.   The Top of the Head Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So, I'll take a horizontal section to my very first parting that I had, which separated the top from the bottom. I'm going to hold this out, determine the length from underneath, and then go through, lift this straight up and out. There's my guide from underneath, and continue the same broad stroke, holding this horizontally straight out from the head towards me. Not lowering my elevation to build up any weight but continuing this straight up. My next section's going to be parallel. Take my section underneath. Hold this straight out towards me. There's my guide underneath. And then go through and cut everything to blend. I could leave this longer if I was going for more of a Tinkerbell type of pixie or where she had more length on the top. You can take this parallel and make it all short on the top like some of a lot of her pictures were. We're going to make everything nice and short, but you could certainly go through and leave this a lot longer and disconnect it. A nice broad soft razor stroke as I'm working through there. And I'll go all the way till I reach the center of the head and hold everything straight out. Elevation coming towards me. Making sure that I'm not lowering my elevation. And keep everything nice and broad and soft. And so what that does is that also gives me a nice curved shape on the side of the head as well as the back of the head. All right, so we've got the underneath cut.   Removing Excess Length on the Top So now let's go through and take a center section and start dealing with our excess length on the top. I got my center section. And I'm going to hold that straight up in the air. There's my length from underneath. I'm going to turn the razor over and go through without moving my left hand. Just razor the top of that off. Keep a nice broad stroke and gradually increase the length as I go towards the front. There's my next piece. Let's get some of that hair out of the way. There's my guide. Now, at this point, the head is starting to curve, but I'm not curving with it. I'm continuing to go straight with it. That will leave me a little bit of extra length in the front that I can go through and fit that in later to make sure that the bang length is exactly the length that I want. I don't have to get it right right now. Now I'm going to take a parallel section walking to the left side. I'm going to comb the center section and this left section together. There's my guide from underneath. Let's go through. Cut that length. Working from back to front. Take my next parallel section. Comb that straight up. There's my guide from underneath. And as I start to get to the left side, you'll notice I'm running out of hair because I've already cut everything to blend in with the side. So, all I have to do is make sure I get the length on top, the length I want. And there's nothing else to blend through there. Perfect. So, now I'll go back to the center, find my original guide, which is right there, and then I'm going to add my next section, and do the same thing on the other side.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Bangs Now, let's go through and fit in our bang section. And I'm just going to take a horizontal section straight across from recession to recession. Take a little piece right here in the middle. A nice broad long stroke through there. I think a little more. A little more. We're going to make sure we get some good separation through there. And all I'm doing is looking at that center piece to see where that fits. And I think that that's going to be okay. Now, we're going to take our next piece next to it. I'm not picking up a guide. I'm just visually going to cut to try to fit this in in its area where it lives. So, I'm not using a guide other than just visually looking and seeing what looks right and pray a little bit and make sure I don't cut everything off completely. We're going to comb everything down. There's a little piece right there. Fit that in. Perfect. Right here. No guide. Just purely visually fitting this in around the front. Now we're going to take the next piece, comb this down. Anything that hangs over and looks too thick, I'm going to go through and fine-tune. Take a little bit of the weight out through there. A little bit here. I'm surface cutting right on the top. So, I cut the top layer shorter, not the underneath that I've already cut, just to see if anything hangs over. If something starts to get too thick like that, then I'll go through and start fine-tuning that as well to make sure I get my separation like I got underneath. I think the razor really lends itself to creating the perfect shape for this type of haircut because while it still gives it a strong shape, there's enough softness and separation and looseness to it that it can really look lived in and still remain very glamorous. So, let's blow it dry and see what we got.   Halle Berry Short Haircut Final Result Here's our end result. And I think that we got a really nice shape, especially around the crown, so you can get it short and full, but still have a nice pleasing head shape to it. I also think that we have a nice kind of soft perimeter shape around the edge. And on these mannequin heads and somebody with really thick pokey hair, this is kind of hard to achieve. So, you want to make sure that you compensate for however much inverted graduation that you put back here so that you leave a little bit of softness around the edges. We've got a nice little bit of graduation to it without it looking too bulky or too bowl-ly. And I think that looks pretty good. The bangs, you know, you can do so many different things with them. You kind of sweep them over, get them up out of the way. You know, you can have them kind of come down. whatever is your preference and whatever the style of Halle Berry pixie that you're going for. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Halle Berry hairstyles have mostly erred on shorter side. Her haircuts are classy and sophisticated. Sometimes it's straight and sometimes it's wavy. But Halle Berry short haircuts have remained her staple look and they look great on her! We hope you learned how to use a razor for this Halle Berry cut. Check out our other tutorials for other short haircuts.   

If you're looking to create choppy layers for long hair, you'll want to go through this tutorial. Layered haircuts can come in various forms as not all layers are made the same. Choppy haircuts are hairstyles with a lot of separation which creates more distinct layers. These styles are trendy and have a more rock and roll feel. They work on short, medium and long length hair so the techniques described below apply to all lengths. Whether it's straight or wavy hair, choppy layered hairstyles can work for most hair types. Watch this long hair with choppy layers tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Choppy Layers for Long Hair: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a study on long hair choppy layers. But we don't want choppy layers like it was a mistake. We want choppy long layers that looks good, balanced, and creates a lot of texture. This haircut's all about getting separation and pieciness and getting that kind of lived-in layered feeling. So, we're going to show you how to section it. We're going to show you how to build the right texture by doing some deep channel cut with our razor. And we're going to show you how to do a nice little face framing around the front. So, we're going to start here working on our perimeter shape and the overall length of the whole haircut. Natural part to the occipital, occipital to the mastoid. And then we're going to section off a center section.   Channel Cutting the Perimeter I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. And I'm using the limited edition wood look. I'm also using the R-Type Blade. And the R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut thicker sections of hair and it gives me a little bit more control. Now I'm taking horizontal sections and taking very very deep solid severe channels because I want this hair to separate. So I want to leave it a little longer than I think I need in order to give me the overall length that I want. Because I'm taking such severe channels out of it, it's going to make the ends look and appear a little bit thinner, which is going to make it appear a little bit shorter. So, cleaning up my shape there. Now, we're going to go through and take a parallel section as I work up the back of the head. So, every section is going to be parallel. And I'm going to start the exact same way. Start right in the center. Comb everything clean and then a very deep solid channel cut all the way through to force that separation, to force that texture to pop into these tendrils. If I take the channels much closer and much finer, I'm not going to see as much separation. It's going to diffuse the texture and I'm going to be more product dependent to get that separation. So here I'm just cleaning up a few pieces that got a little bit longer that I want to make sure that it's not sticking out too severely. So it looks like it's longer on one side than the other. And I'm just going to go through and follow the same methodology. The deeper the channel, the more hair I take. The stronger the gap becomes, the more separation that I force into each section. So, my layering that I'm doing here is really only going to be in the last six/eight inches of the hair and just following through exactly the same methodology to cut the entire perimeter shape to get the texture like I want. Sometimes the hair in the middle didn't reach so I'm not going to cut so much in the middle. Where it gets longer on the sides, I still want to get everything the same length all the way across. As I pull some of the neck sections down, there's not a whole lot of weight removal that needs to happen. So, I'm just taking off any kind of length that hangs over my perimeter shape to make sure we get the lengths the same. But then on the sides, it does need a little bit of weight removal and a little bit of channeling to make sure that the textures pop just like the center and the underneath sections.   Face Framing Now, we're going to move on to the front. And I'm going to take the first bump from the hairline and take that all the way to the top of the ear. That's going to section out where the hair falls in the face. Now I'm going to take a center section right where her hair parts. I'm going to pull that forward and that's going to be my length for her shortest layer around the front. I'm taking that little triangular section right where her hair separates and splits. Now I'll split that in half. I'll take the left and the right so I can have a guide for each side. Now here, working on the left side of her head, I will take a diagonal section, pull that over to the opposite side, and use my length from underneath to create a really steep angle for my shortest layer around the front where her bang section is to blend in with all the face framing that I'm going to start to introduce as I work into the sides. Now, the steeper that angle is, the faster the speed of movement that I create going from short to long. And just continuing that all the way down to the perimeter length that I have at the ear.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side, but in the opposite way. So where on the left side I was pulling everything to the right, here on the right side I'm pulling everything to the left because I want that increase of length to force it out of her face right at the fringe bang section and then that blends into my face framing layers. Now I'm not going through and putting a lot of texture into this section because it's already a little bit finer and thinner. And if I need to create more channeling, then I'll do that where the sections get a little bit thicker. Check our lengths. They look pretty good. Now, we're just going to comb everything down. And anything that hangs over my face framing, I'm just going to cut that off. Now, I want to be mindful of my perimeter shape right at the ear section. So, when I worked on my perimeter in the back, I've cut everything all the way around, and now I'm working on my face framing. I want to make sure I don't cut that perimeter length right at the top of the ear. If I cut that, that shifts the weight behind the ear and it no longer hangs full around the front. So, still taking a long razor stroke to make sure that I have a nice soft texture to it. If the hair gets thicker, then we'll go through and channel it and make that a little bit lighter and thinner. Now, let's go through and work on some layering in the back of the head. And this is really what's going to make the haircut pop. Taking a triangular section right in the crown, hold the first section up. Find out where I want my layering to start. And then just like I did underneath, I'm going to go through and take some really deep, severe channels to force that hair to separate when it falls. And because I'm holding it straight up in the air, that's going to add layering to it as well and airiness and softness. So that deep channel will give me a little bit of weight. So when it falls, it pops. Now, here where the layering, I'm sorry, where the razoring stopped on the previous section is going to be the beginning of the razoring for the next section that I cut. And I'm still going to follow the same methodology I was doing before. We'll separate the right half of the back from the left half of the back. Hold that straight up using my guide from underneath to start the razoring. And still continuing that really severe deep razor channel. Just keep holding everything straight up, section by section by section, letting any kind of shorter hair underneath fall out. And there we see my guide from underneath. And I'll start the razoring as I go forward. Checking our razoring on the left side, seeing how it looks before we move on to the right. Now, we're going to follow through with the exact same thing we did on the left side. We're going to do on the right side. Where the razoring stopped from my previous section is where the razoring is going to start for the next section. So, I don't have to be real precise with this sort of layering because not only am I elevating it to the maximum elevation that I can get, which is going to remove the most weight, but because I'm using a razor and I'm going for a choppier look with this really deep kind of choppy channel cutting, it's going to blend smoothly throughout. You're not going to see any kind of real hardcore lumps. It's going to have a smooth gradation in my layering. But because I got that deep channel, it's going to pop out and be a choppy type of layering.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Check our layering. See how it looks. And I think it looks pretty good. I am going to remove a little bit more weight right through the center. I pulled everything up and I pulled everything down. So, I got a little bit of weight build up right in the middle part of the entire back of the head. So, I'm going to take a little bit more weight out through there. And I'm going to go through and continue on with the same sort of deep severe channeling that I was doing underneath just to make sure that we can get those layers to pop and separate like we want. And I want to be mindful of how I'm applying this channeling technique. Where the hair is thicker, I'm going to take a little bit more. Where it's thinner, I'm obviously going to take a little less because I want the weight distribution of her hair to be as consistent as possible.   Addressing the Top of the Head So, now we're going to move on to the top of the head and I'm going to take a parallel parting right to her natural part. I'm going to pull the hair up in the crown as my guide. And then I'm going to go through and channel it just like I was doing in the back on the side of the head to make sure that all the layering from the back blends into my face framing layering around the front. And then just continuing to channel that through and not trying to be real precise and real meticulous about this. This haircut demands a looseness, a fastness of the razor application, and I can't be real precise. This is more of a haircut about feeling. So, I want to make sure that I put that deep channel in it as consistent as possible throughout. Now, we're going to continue on the opposite side, pulling everything up. Anything that that hangs out, that doesn't look right, that doesn't feel right, I'm going to take a little bit of that out.   Blowdrying Now, let's go through and start to blow dry. And when I start blowing dry, I'm going to start right around the front. I'm going to pull everything forward, blow everything back so it kind of gets confused because I want this hair to have some volume, but I don't want it sticking straight out. So, I'm going to start at the bangs because that's the most important part of a blow dry is how it looks around the front. Now we're going to work in the back. I'm going to blow dry everything at the roots to get it off of the scalp so it has a natural fullness. And then I'm going to go through and polish it off from the mid-shaft and the ends with a little bit of a round brush. I want just enough bend to force the layers to kind of separate, but not so much that it starts to look real glamorous. Around the front, I'm pulling everything forward with a little bit of bend moving back away from the face. And then I'm gonna take a cold air shot and blow everything around to get some air in it so it has a more natural kind of look to it. After I got everything dry like I want, I'm going to put a little bit of styling cream on my hands and go through and just encourage those pieces to separate so we can really see our layering pop. And I think that that looks pretty good and everything's popping really, really well.   Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I like the way that the texture really fits with her natural texture. And we got a lot of separation to it. So, this is a type of long choppy layers that still blends and doesn't look too chunky. You got the separation from all the layering in it. You got the pieciness from all that deep channel cutting. And the face framing lays perfect around the front. And this is not about being super smooth. It's about getting some pop from the layers. So, it looks a little lived in and a little more rock and roll than a glamour type of layering. So, I think it works really well and it fits on most types of hair. On all but the curliest types of hair this shape would work really, really well on. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstylist and barber. Also, let us know if you have any ideas for what you'd like to see in the future. Any suggestions would be great. Thank you so much. We'll see you next time.  

We have come to know and love Farrah Fawcett's iconic 70s feathered look. But it's 2025 and some of us want a modern take on the haircut. In this tutorial you'll learn how to cut Farrah Fawcett haircut with a razor for the modern times.