Tutorial

In this short hair cut fine hair video tutorial, you'll learn how to address fine hair and make it look thicker. While the end result is a short haircut with soft layers this is more of a technical deep dive into techniques for cutting fine hair, not necessarily thin hair. These techniques can apply to a short bob, short hairstyles and even longer hairstyles. Short haircuts are better suited for fine hair and especially thinning hair as the hair is not weighed down as much. When you create the right structure for the haircut, it puts less reliance on styling to make hair more voluminous.  Watch this short hair cut fine hair techniques tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Hair Cut Fine Hair Techniques Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to show you three essential techniques when you're cutting fine hair and fine textured hair. I'm going to show you number one, how to maximize the bluntness of your bob. I'm going to show you the optimal type of graduation you can get so you get the most stack and the most volume with the most solid shape on fine hair. We're going to show you the optimal way to layer hair to get the most even amount of fullness all over the whole head. Without further ado, let's get started.   Technique 1: Cutting Everything Blunt Alright, so trying to make fine hair appear thicker. The first technique we're going to cover is cutting everything completely blunt. When I cut a section completely blunt in one length, like a little bob, it makes finer hair look the thickest that it can. A lot of times I will see people comb the section down, turn their fingers up, go through and cut everything like this. Now, what I'm actually doing when I flip my fingers up, I'm cutting the top of the section shorter than the underneath of the section. So that hair on top is not going to end at the same spot. It's going to be a little shorter. There's also the inverse of that. If I have someone with a lot of cowlicks and I'm trying to encourage it to cup under, then I will take this section. I will comb it down and then I'll roll my fingers under, pick it up, cut that. Now, what I'm actually doing is cutting the underneath slightly shorter than the top. By doing that, it encourages the hair to cup under. But in order to make this as thick as possible, I need to pay attention to the pitch of my scissor blade. And I am using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. It's got a nice long blade with a good pointy, with a pointy tip that's not going to poke me when I go through and cut. It's not that pointy, not that tight, but it is very clean and very sharp. And this is probably my most used scissor from Jatai. Going through, I'm going to comb this section straight down, comb everything clean and leave my fingers perpendicular to the head. I'm not flipping it up. I'm not cupping it under. I'm keeping it perpendicular to the section of hair I'm cutting. So now when I go through and cut, I want to make sure that my scissor angle is perpendicular to the hair that I'm cutting as well. I'm not flipping it up and I'm not flipping it under. I want to keep everything really clean and perpendicular so that when I let that go, all of that hair ends at the same point. On a mannequin head, I'm going to comb this down with my scissors and my comb, and I will cut that straight across. What are you doing in there hiding? Get out of there. I got a little piece hiding there. There we go. Scissors are perpendicular to the section so that when I comb that down and cut that, everything is ending at the same spot. So now I go on to the next section. Comb everything clean from the parting all the way down. Everything perpendicular to the hair. Thick hair, I probably will never do this because I want things to shift under or shift up or not be quite so blunt because if I did this type of technique on someone with really really thick hair, it would end up looking like a broom. But on finer hair, this is the optimal way to cut one length.   Technique 2: Creating Finger Length Graduation Second idea is if they don't want something blunt and they want something a little fuller, we're going to minimize the bluntness by stacking it with some graduation just like I did before. And I'm going to use the same kind of methodology I was doing when I was cutting everything one length. Comb everything down into my fingers. Roll my finger. Cut everything as perpendicular to the hair as possible to get rid of any kind of graduation. We're going to comb that down. Cut that without changing the pitch of my scissor. I want my scissor perpendicular to the hair. So, if the hair is here, I want my scissor right there. I don't want to cut any angles on that. Cut that straight across. Everything's cut nice and blunt. Now we're going to go through take about 3/4 of an inch, maybe a finger width. The next section I will use the guide from underneath, but instead of just one finger, I'm going to put two fingers in. This is going to give me another finger length of elevation. There's my guide from underneath. Still cutting blunt and perpendicular to the head. Combing this straight down. I got two fingers in there. Now there's my guide from underneath. Cut that perpendicular to the hair. Comb this one down again. Two fingers. There's my guide. Cut that straight across perpendicular to the head. Now, you're going to start to see a little bit of graduation popping up in my sections because I've elevated it one more finger angle. So, guess what we're going to do now? We're going to go one more finger length as I go up. Now, I did the first one at a one finger, the second one at a two-finger. Now, I'm going to do a three-finger elevation. So, I'll go through, take my section from underneath. I've got three fingers. I'm elevating. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that through. Come through here. Three fingers underneath. There's my line. Cut that through. I want to make sure that I'm not changing my finger angle or the angle of my scissor. Same thing I was doing before. There's my guide. Three fingers. Boom. So now you start to see a nice beveling of our line. So it's giving it a low angle of graduation which is going to stack perfectly on fine hair to give it that fuller type of graduated shape without over graduating it to where it just becomes a bubble shape. This will still maintain a nice angle of graduation and still maintain a bob shape. It won't bevel it out like a little bubble.   Follow us on your favorite social media @JataiFeather   Now we should be above the occipital bone. We got three sections below the occipital. Now we got our first section above the occipital. So now I'm going to lay my comb right there at the parting. That's going to show me the angle of elevation that I have. Where's my guide? There's my guide. right there. Cut everything perpendicular to my section. I missed two hairs there. Now, we're going to go through. Same thing here. There's my line underneath. Cut that through. Cut that through. Perfect type of graduation. It's a low graduation which gives me really the most amount of volume in a graduated shape and it works excellently on fine hair. If I want to maintain my one length shape, everything else gets pulled to the exact same elevation that this was pulled. So now everything pulls to here and I can continue my bob shape around. Now I know what you're saying. At this point you're saying, "Well, my client doesn't want a bob. She doesn't want graduation. She wants a bubble. She wants everything to be full layered with as much volume as possible." Okay. Well, we can do that.   Technique 3: Use the Correct Elevation The thing you have to watch out for, which brings me to technique number three, is that whenever you lay your hair, every section that you take has to be held at the same elevation. The minute that hair starts getting over-directed to one area versus another, you start pulling hair out. What it does is it introduces length. It introduces shorter where you're pulling it to and longer where you're moving it from. And so because you're having that increase of length, it diminishes the amount of volume and a fullness that you can have. So I want everything to be layered exactly 90 degrees from the head. And that looks like this. Alright. So I got my center section. I'm going to take the comb and lay it against the head. And where it's flat, that determines the size of my section. Because if I take for instance these two sections, this is 90°. This is 90°. So if I hold them in the middle, this one's being under-elevated. This one's being over-elevated. So I want to make sure everything is the exact same elevation. So I have the exact same amount of weight and I can keep everything as full as possible. So, I'll pull my first little flat section out. Determine what length that I want. Cut that blunt across. I'll take a small piece as my guide. Now, I take my next flat section. I hold it to 90. There's my guide from the front. I cut that all exactly the same length as the head. Take a small piece as my guide. Now I will take my next section where it's flat. Comb that straight up 90 degrees from the head. There's my guide from the front. I'll go through and cut that blunt. I want to make sure that this is not only cut blunt like it was when I was doing my one length bob. And I'm not curving and making one side of this longer or shorter. I also want to keep it the same from front to back. Everything, pitch of the scissor is the same. Everything is blunt and as smooth and as even as possible. By going through and cutting everything as even as possible, that gives me the maximum amount of volume with the maximum amount of density per layered section. From here, I'll take a parallel section to the first section. So, now I'm going to take my original guide and use that as the guide. I'm going to take my next section, hold it into the center of both of those two sections. Comb this straight up and out. There's my guide. I'm going to cut this perfectly blunt and across. Watching the pitch of my blade. Watching the pitch of how I comb the section. I want everything as blunt as possible. Small piece as my guide. There's my next section. Comb to the center of both of those two sections. Cut that straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Next section. And follow that all the way down and through until I run out of hair. Now I'm going to take my third section on this side. We're going to take the third section where it's flat. Follow my previous guide. Take this as parallel to that original guide as I possibly can. Now I'm going to comb section two and section three to the center of both of those two sections. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that blunt across. Take a small piece as my guide. My next little flat section into the middle of both of those two sections. Small piece as my guide. And continue this all the way until I run out of hair. And until I run out of sections on this side. Then go through and do the exact same thing on the opposite side.   Final Results I just realized I styled your hair like Axel Rose's mom. Alright, here's our end result. And I think this really, though this style is very kind of generic. It's just basically round layers with a blunt little nape because of the graduation that we put in it. This was really an exercise in showing you three key techniques to make finer hair fuller and thicker looking. So, her hair is not as thick as some of the other mannequin heads, but the technique shows you how to do it. You can get a nice even full layering. This is without me round brushing, me just shaking my hands through it. And then we got this nice kind of stacked fullness in the back that if we feel like it's too low of a graduation, it's very easy to change and just go through and change our angle on it. But this gives you the maximum amount of heavy graduation for finer hair to still keep it solid and blunt looking. You got a nice little round layer through there that's evenly distributed and it doesn't add to any sort of collapsing technique by over-directing anything one side to another. Check these techniques out. Please practice them. Add them to your repertoire. They can really add a lot to your technique when it comes to cutting fine hair. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We will see you next time. Using techniques for cutting fine hair can help you address challenges with fine hair. Whether you're doing a short cut such as a pixie cut, giving regular trims, creating a French bob or simply putting in bangs, your fine hair clients will want these styles to also give volume. Women often have more desire for different styles and want their hairstyle to compliment their face shape. Incorporating these three techniques should help you achieve that.  

What are Betty Page bangs? Correctly spelled as Bettie, was a famous model in the 1950s known for her pin up looks. Not only was she iconic for her pin up looks, but she had iconic bangs. These heavy blunt bangs had a slight curl at the ends and were wider than normal. Known as the Bettie Page bangs, her vintage look has stood the test of time. Russell shares his knowledge on how to create these bangs with precision using Jatai Kyoto Scissors. Watch this Betty Page bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript. Betty Page Bangs: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive on how to cut some Bettie bangs. Now the Bettie Page bang is probably the most difficult bangs that you can cut because there's a lot of things that can go wrong and if you got cowlicks and dips and flips and waves and hair that's too thick. So there's a lot of stuff that can happen. So I'm going to show you all the things that can go wrong and how to deal with each of them. So let's get started. So when I'm going to start cutting some bangs I have to be mindful of what type of bang that I'm doing, how long it's going to be and what the end results going to be.   Sectioning the Betty Page Bangs So Bettie Page bangs are always very very blunt very heavy and curved up on the edges and it's very thick. And it's a little bit broader than a standard bang. A standard you know fringe is going to be from the front hairline, the first bump to the center of the recession which is going to be about that much. Hers is much thicker and it goes a little bit further back so on her for this type of bang I'm going to go first bump to the second bump to the bottom of the recession which is going to look something about like that. So I'll pin this hair out of the way. I can always add more later, but I can't take it out after I've already cut it. So I'll look at this and see okay does that look like that's going to be thick enough and I think so. So I'll do the same thing on the other side, the bottom of the recession right there to that point, pin that hair out of the way. Now we have the entirety of the bangs that we're going to cut in our Bettie Page shape.   Cutting Wet or Dry? The next thing I have to pay attention to is if I'm going to cut it wet or if I'm going to cut it dry. If I cut it wet then the hair has a tendency to spring and I'll get more tension on it than I will if the hair is dry because the hair stretches a little bit more when it's wet. So on hers when I want to keep that very blunt I'm going to go ahead and blow it dry. And when I blow it dry, I want to be mindful of how much I'm stretching it, how much I'm pulling it. So if they naturally have a really strong cowlick that's sticking straight up there's no way that they're ever going to be able to style their hair. So I want to be conscientious of their styling ability and how much they can style their hair. So I'll go through with my Du-Boa Brush and just kind of gently encourage everything to go flat against the head when I blow it dry and I don't want to get so powerful with it that I get everything perfectly smooth and don't allow any of the natural cowlicks or hair movement get in the way. I want that to be in the way a little bit so that when I cut it it fits in better with the natural growth patterns of the hair. Some hair cannot do Bettie Page bangs because they have a strong cowlick and you can't get past it.   Creating the Zero Tension Next thing, I'm gonna go through, I'll take a center section right between the eyebrows. This is going to be the first section that I cut. If I'm nervous I can go through take this section in half and start small and work my way up. That's okay. You don't have to do the whole section in one shot. So I'm going to start with my Jatai Kyoto Scissor. Now this is a little bit heavy. It's got a little bit more weight to the blade so that when I cut it, it gives me a more precise solid cut so I can cut through dry hair and thicker sections much easier. The next thing I want to pay attention to is when I comb it, I comb everything straight down, flip my comb with zero tension and then hold it. Now if I hold it in my fingers I'm going to cut the top layer slightly shorter than the underneath layer so it's going to pop up with a little bit of graduation. We can fix that later. I'll go through, cut this straight across. Now you see how that started to spring up already. So that's another thing I have to pay attention to is when I'm combing my section I don't want to grab the section with my fingers and stretch for dear life because see how flat that gets the hair? Next to it, it's already popping up. So when I let this go, boom it's going to spring up and when it springs up I no longer have a solid blunt line. So I want zero tension when I comb this down. I comb it down right into my finger and then lay my finger on top of it where I want to cut. Find your guide underneath, go through, cut that. Now another thing that I want to pay attention to, I'm leaving this long. I'm going to cut this shorter. I'm just going through and showing you the motions.   Cut on the Backstroke Another thing I want you to pay attention to is the scissor push. When I'm working with a thick section of hair and I put the blade in you notice how the hair instantly starts to get pushed out of the blade and that happens even on very very sharp scissors because these are very sharp. So I end up with a wavy line. So what I have to do is I have to cut. As the scissor starts to close, I pull back on my scissor, I cut on the back stroke. It looks like I'm going and cutting on the end stroke when in reality I'm cutting on the backstroke. Cutting on the backstroke will give you a much cleaner more solid line. My preferred way of cutting really really solid bangs, lift up with my scissor, comb down, cut on the backstroke straight across. Then I can place my comb right there on the head to hold it and go through and clean up my line. Now we're starting to get a nice blunt solid line without any kind of graduation and that's the secret to her bangs is it has to be very very blunt. I think a little shorter. A little bit shorter. And that's another thing I want to pay attention and acknowledge is that bangs can get very very short very very quickly. So it's better for me if I leave it a little longer initially and then go through and whittle it down because there's going to be sometimes the hair springs up. There's going to be sometimes the hair shifts. So I want to give myself a little bit of a safety net, sorry, as I start to whittle that down. Now I'm looking at that knowing that as I go to the sides this is going to go up. So I'm really just looking at that little piece right in the middle and I think that that's probably pretty good. Now we're going to take the next sections. We're going to comb that straight down. I'm going to go through, lift this up, put my comb in at the angle that I want and then roll the comb down and cut from the short to the long. Then I can go back clean this up.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   And I think we're beginning to start to see our shape. Now we can certainly exaggerate this a little more depending upon the hair that you have on your model, depending upon how extreme that she wants to go you can go very very short and I think that we need a little shorter on the edges here. So I'll go back with no tension. The only tension I get is what my comb is holding there and then I'm going to angle the comb as I bring this straight down. Take a little bit more off on the right side. Clean that up. Oh! I think that's looking better. Now there is a method of going through and cleaning this up where I will point cut in because as I go in with my blade blunt and I'm taking a pretty broad cut, pretty broad stroke of cut, the hair will tend to push that we talked about just a minute ago. If I go through and just do little nibbles, there's exponentially less push so I can fine-tune that shape a little bit more and be a little more precise without having to deal with scissor push.   Matching the Other Side Alright, so we've got our short piece and our short piece. So I'm gonna go through and try to guess at what angle that this is going to be on this side to match the other side and cut that and hope I don't cut too short. Oh that's actually not bad. Now don't look at my big gash right here but this part where I'm cutting to is actually pretty even. So now we're going to go through clean this line up. I find cutting short to long I can be more precise than cutting long to short and also trying not to take one big strong broad stroke of the scissor but taking smaller strokes or even going through and point cutting that will make that easier to deal with the scissor push. That's not bad. I'm gonna cut this a little bit through here. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Betty Page Bangs Recap and Final Look So here's our end result and let's cover a few key pointers when we're trying to cut really blunt and around the bangs on an angle. So first thing, no tension. The more tension that you introduce the more it's going to spring and the more it's going to shift. Secondly is combing it clean from the roots all the way to the ends using the comb to plant and hold. Zero tension. Cut on the backstroke. So as the scissor starts to cut it's going to push hair. So cut on the back stroke or go through point cut and that way you'll have less scissor push. When you're combing it down for this angle as it starts to angle up on the sides, I'm still combing it down in natural fall just angling my fingers or angling the comb and then that's going to introduce the angle that I start to bevel up on the edges. So also, last thing, be patient. It takes a long time. So be comfortable. Be patient. Have them close their eyes. You don't want them looking at you, you know, as you're trying to cut their bangs. It's kind of unnerving, but this is a very iconic style for a reason and a lot of people don't wear it because it's very difficult to do. So if you practice and if you practice on a doll head and you get the doll head right, any human should be right as long as they don't have some big cowlick in the front. So check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave them below and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching. Vintage pin up hairstyles have always had a certain unique look. Thanks to Bettie Page hair and her rockabilly bangs, pin up bangs hairstyles have carved a solid niche in fashion, hair and entertainment. An internet search will likely reference Bettie Page pinup bangs and her iconic style. If you liked learning how to cut pin up bangs, let us know in the comments what you thought about the tutorial.   Tutorial