Tutorial

Learn how to create a Linda Evangelista short haircut that she made famous in the 1990's. One of the most well-known models at the time among Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, she had a vibrant career and earned celebrity status for her modeling. One of the most important contributions she made in the fashion world is her iconic short haircut. Photographer Peter Lindbergh suggested she get a short haircut and in 1988 she chopped it off in a bold move that shocked the industry. Hairstylist Julien d'Ys created the iconic pixie that soon gained popularity shortly after. Her style was broadcasted all over the news and media outlets, including popular print magazines such as Vogue. Linda Evangelista has sported many long and short hairstyles over the years, but the short crop pixie made the biggest impact in the hair world in the late 80s and early 90s. Today short haircuts are popular among women, but Linda's has maintained a timeless essence which exudes beauty in any era. Watch this tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes Director of Content and today we're going to be doing a study of the Linda Evangelista pixie cut, one of the most iconic haircuts of any fashion era. And we're going to study what makes it great, what makes it work, how to remove enough weight to where it fits in nice and tight but still have some length and that was really her signature. It was short but she still had length. She's had thickness and it was solid, but it wasn't too bulky. It still had softness and movement. So let's see how we can do that. Let's get started.   Sectioning I want to take my first section which is going to separate the top of the hair from the bottom. The bottom we're going to fit in real nice and tight. The top we're going to leave a little longer. We're going to take the center of the recession to the quarter part, quarter part down and then we're going to bevel that out as opposed to just going to a point. I want to bevel this out just to make it flow a little bit better in the back of the head. I'll take an angled section right here at the front. I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is the wood-look option which is my favorite right now. It's a limited edition so get it while you can. I'm going to take this first section. I'm going to pull perpendicular to my parting. So T to the parting. Now most of Linda Evangelista's pixies were longer in the front about the center of her nose that she would kind of texturize and swift one way or the other.   Cutting the Sides So I'm going to pull this forward. I'm going to plant my knuckles and then angle my fingers to get that length right at about the center of her nose and then we're going to go through and cut that back towards the ear. I'll take my next section. This is going to be a parallel section to my first that I just cut. We're going to comb this out of the way. I'm going to take this section. I'm going to pull it forward the same but where this is going to differ is that I'm not pulling it straight forward flat to the head. I'm going to slightly elevate it. So I'm going off the curvature of the head as I work this back. An easy way to determine that is I just lay the comb right at the parting and it will show me what elevation I take as I go towards the back. That's going to give me a curved line going from the front to the back. Again pull this out, find my line. There's my guide. Try to take the same broad razor stroke that I was taking before. Cut that down and through. The next section parallel all the way down into the nape. Now the number of sections that you're going to take is going to be determined by how big the person's head is. The bigger the head, the more sections you're going to take. The smaller the head, the fewer sections you'll take. Pick up my previously cut guide. Pull out the first. Find the right elevation. Find the right angle. Cut that back towards the ear. Once I get to the ear I'm no longer going to work that all the way in. I'm going to start taking this section parallel to the head, parallel to my parting. So the parting up here was at an angle. Once it hits the ear, now it becomes parallel to the section. Continue my next section. Pull this forward. There's my angle. I got the right elevation. Lift that up and through once I come into the nape parallel to my parting. So I start to build up weight here on top of the ear and then it starts to become much more even in its weight distribution as I get down to the nape. And I will continue this until I get all the way just past center. Next section, since I don't have any hair above where the ear is this is all going to be parallel, parallel to the parting and also following my previously cut guide. There's my length. Nice. Very nice. It's taking me back. I've got George Michael playing in my head. Now we're going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. To make sure that I keep my moisture content the same on both sides. I'm going to be using Jatai Blade Glide. This is going to give me the ability to keep my moisture consistent on both sides. It compacts the cuticle and makes it a lot easier to cut with the razor. I'm just going to go through and take a parallel section to my previous guide which is going to be like that. So now from here I know that I'm going about to the bridge of the nose so I'll pull this out. I'll rock it to where I have about that elevation into it. There's my guide from underneath. Go through. Take that length off. Same thing as I work from the front to the back. Get my elevation right, a nice broad razor stroke following my guide from underneath as I work all the way into the back of the head. Now I'm going to take a parallel section about the same thickness from front all the way to the back. If I need to add a little moisture I'll hit it with a little Blade Glide. Perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   There's my guide. Nice broad razor stroke so I don't build up weight but I do build up length. There's the next nice broad stroke. If I need to have them tilt their head down there's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Next section and I'm going to continue with this method until I get slightly over the center top of the head. Find the right elevation. There's my guide from underneath until I work all the way into the nape. That looks pretty good. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. Uh I think we've got a little too much length in the front so I'm going to take a little bit off right in the middle so that'll be easy. Just take a parallel section there. Yeah we got the sides fine. It's just right in the middle I'm not a fan of so we're going to go through, take that and bevel that shape from the sides into and around the front. There we go.   Cutting the Top Now to control this kind of point on top it's very easy. It's going to be very simple. I'm going to take a center mohawk section. So I've got my center section here on top. What I want to do is go through and remove this corner that I have on top by pulling it left and right, front and back. The way I'm going to do that is I'm going to hold this and cut just like this. I'm going to flick some of this length off by using my thumb against the back of the spine of the razor. I'm not laying it on the actual blade. I'm laying it on the back of the razor putting the hair and then pulling the blade out that will take any kind of length that hangs off over where I push that end of the blade off. Very little, if anything, right through here. Yeah, very little. If I feel like the hair is too thick, then the way I'm going to remove some weight is not by channel cutting because I don't want to introduce any separation and any sort of movement. I want to keep this a very neutral shape. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to pull out a section very easy and then just lay the blade directly flat across the entire section and fillet some of that weight out of it just like I'm filleting a fish, filleting some sushi. Take a little bit of that weight out and that will remove the weight without changing the shape or putting channel separation into it. We're going to continue this on the top all over and just take a little bit of that weight out just gently lay the blade against the hair and then start to rock the blade until it starts to cut. Once it starts cutting, I'll leave it at that angle. Boom very quick, very easy, very very light. I don't want to get heavy with this razor especially on blonde hair because it will flat cut it off quick because blonde hair tends to be a little delicate, so I need to respect that.   Give us a thumbs up, click the notification bell and subscribe for future Jatai Academy content.   I like this. I think we got the basic shape into it so now let's go through and blow it dry and see what our end results are.   Final Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Look So here's our end result of the Linda Evangelista haircut and I think we got the texture right which I think is the hardest thing when you're working on mannequin hair or hair that's been bleached like our inspiration picture where you got to get it soft enough thinned out enough without getting wispy and I think by laying our razor flat against the section, that really generates that type of texture and that type of shape. We got a solid shape. We got a little bit of fullness all the way around. Very very iconic of when she was doing the George Michael video with when she had her short pixie kind of hair. I like it a lot. I think that this works really really well. So couple of things to remember: pull your sections forward, angle your fingers so you leave more weight right here around the front and then you're tapering it into the back. Also, gently fillet with the razor across each section to remove as much weight as required. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. If you have a question, leave it below. We'll try to get back to you as soon as possible and again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial

What are Betty Page bangs? Correctly spelled as Bettie, was a famous model in the 1950s known for her pin up looks. Not only was she iconic for her pin up looks, but she had iconic bangs. These heavy blunt bangs had a slight curl at the ends and were wider than normal. Known as the Bettie Page bangs, her vintage look has stood the test of time. Russell shares his knowledge on how to create these bangs with precision using Jatai Kyoto Scissors. Watch this Betty Page bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript. Betty Page Bangs: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive on how to cut some Bettie bangs. Now the Bettie Page bang is probably the most difficult bangs that you can cut because there's a lot of things that can go wrong and if you got cowlicks and dips and flips and waves and hair that's too thick. So there's a lot of stuff that can happen. So I'm going to show you all the things that can go wrong and how to deal with each of them. So let's get started. So when I'm going to start cutting some bangs I have to be mindful of what type of bang that I'm doing, how long it's going to be and what the end results going to be.   Sectioning the Betty Page Bangs So Bettie Page bangs are always very very blunt very heavy and curved up on the edges and it's very thick. And it's a little bit broader than a standard bang. A standard you know fringe is going to be from the front hairline, the first bump to the center of the recession which is going to be about that much. Hers is much thicker and it goes a little bit further back so on her for this type of bang I'm going to go first bump to the second bump to the bottom of the recession which is going to look something about like that. So I'll pin this hair out of the way. I can always add more later, but I can't take it out after I've already cut it. So I'll look at this and see okay does that look like that's going to be thick enough and I think so. So I'll do the same thing on the other side, the bottom of the recession right there to that point, pin that hair out of the way. Now we have the entirety of the bangs that we're going to cut in our Bettie Page shape.   Cutting Wet or Dry? The next thing I have to pay attention to is if I'm going to cut it wet or if I'm going to cut it dry. If I cut it wet then the hair has a tendency to spring and I'll get more tension on it than I will if the hair is dry because the hair stretches a little bit more when it's wet. So on hers when I want to keep that very blunt I'm going to go ahead and blow it dry. And when I blow it dry, I want to be mindful of how much I'm stretching it, how much I'm pulling it. So if they naturally have a really strong cowlick that's sticking straight up there's no way that they're ever going to be able to style their hair. So I want to be conscientious of their styling ability and how much they can style their hair. So I'll go through with my Du-Boa Brush and just kind of gently encourage everything to go flat against the head when I blow it dry and I don't want to get so powerful with it that I get everything perfectly smooth and don't allow any of the natural cowlicks or hair movement get in the way. I want that to be in the way a little bit so that when I cut it it fits in better with the natural growth patterns of the hair. Some hair cannot do Bettie Page bangs because they have a strong cowlick and you can't get past it.   Creating the Zero Tension Next thing, I'm gonna go through, I'll take a center section right between the eyebrows. This is going to be the first section that I cut. If I'm nervous I can go through take this section in half and start small and work my way up. That's okay. You don't have to do the whole section in one shot. So I'm going to start with my Jatai Kyoto Scissor. Now this is a little bit heavy. It's got a little bit more weight to the blade so that when I cut it, it gives me a more precise solid cut so I can cut through dry hair and thicker sections much easier. The next thing I want to pay attention to is when I comb it, I comb everything straight down, flip my comb with zero tension and then hold it. Now if I hold it in my fingers I'm going to cut the top layer slightly shorter than the underneath layer so it's going to pop up with a little bit of graduation. We can fix that later. I'll go through, cut this straight across. Now you see how that started to spring up already. So that's another thing I have to pay attention to is when I'm combing my section I don't want to grab the section with my fingers and stretch for dear life because see how flat that gets the hair? Next to it, it's already popping up. So when I let this go, boom it's going to spring up and when it springs up I no longer have a solid blunt line. So I want zero tension when I comb this down. I comb it down right into my finger and then lay my finger on top of it where I want to cut. Find your guide underneath, go through, cut that. Now another thing that I want to pay attention to, I'm leaving this long. I'm going to cut this shorter. I'm just going through and showing you the motions.   Cut on the Backstroke Another thing I want you to pay attention to is the scissor push. When I'm working with a thick section of hair and I put the blade in you notice how the hair instantly starts to get pushed out of the blade and that happens even on very very sharp scissors because these are very sharp. So I end up with a wavy line. So what I have to do is I have to cut. As the scissor starts to close, I pull back on my scissor, I cut on the back stroke. It looks like I'm going and cutting on the end stroke when in reality I'm cutting on the backstroke. Cutting on the backstroke will give you a much cleaner more solid line. My preferred way of cutting really really solid bangs, lift up with my scissor, comb down, cut on the backstroke straight across. Then I can place my comb right there on the head to hold it and go through and clean up my line. Now we're starting to get a nice blunt solid line without any kind of graduation and that's the secret to her bangs is it has to be very very blunt. I think a little shorter. A little bit shorter. And that's another thing I want to pay attention and acknowledge is that bangs can get very very short very very quickly. So it's better for me if I leave it a little longer initially and then go through and whittle it down because there's going to be sometimes the hair springs up. There's going to be sometimes the hair shifts. So I want to give myself a little bit of a safety net, sorry, as I start to whittle that down. Now I'm looking at that knowing that as I go to the sides this is going to go up. So I'm really just looking at that little piece right in the middle and I think that that's probably pretty good. Now we're going to take the next sections. We're going to comb that straight down. I'm going to go through, lift this up, put my comb in at the angle that I want and then roll the comb down and cut from the short to the long. Then I can go back clean this up.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   And I think we're beginning to start to see our shape. Now we can certainly exaggerate this a little more depending upon the hair that you have on your model, depending upon how extreme that she wants to go you can go very very short and I think that we need a little shorter on the edges here. So I'll go back with no tension. The only tension I get is what my comb is holding there and then I'm going to angle the comb as I bring this straight down. Take a little bit more off on the right side. Clean that up. Oh! I think that's looking better. Now there is a method of going through and cleaning this up where I will point cut in because as I go in with my blade blunt and I'm taking a pretty broad cut, pretty broad stroke of cut, the hair will tend to push that we talked about just a minute ago. If I go through and just do little nibbles, there's exponentially less push so I can fine-tune that shape a little bit more and be a little more precise without having to deal with scissor push.   Matching the Other Side Alright, so we've got our short piece and our short piece. So I'm gonna go through and try to guess at what angle that this is going to be on this side to match the other side and cut that and hope I don't cut too short. Oh that's actually not bad. Now don't look at my big gash right here but this part where I'm cutting to is actually pretty even. So now we're going to go through clean this line up. I find cutting short to long I can be more precise than cutting long to short and also trying not to take one big strong broad stroke of the scissor but taking smaller strokes or even going through and point cutting that will make that easier to deal with the scissor push. That's not bad. I'm gonna cut this a little bit through here. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Betty Page Bangs Recap and Final Look So here's our end result and let's cover a few key pointers when we're trying to cut really blunt and around the bangs on an angle. So first thing, no tension. The more tension that you introduce the more it's going to spring and the more it's going to shift. Secondly is combing it clean from the roots all the way to the ends using the comb to plant and hold. Zero tension. Cut on the backstroke. So as the scissor starts to cut it's going to push hair. So cut on the back stroke or go through point cut and that way you'll have less scissor push. When you're combing it down for this angle as it starts to angle up on the sides, I'm still combing it down in natural fall just angling my fingers or angling the comb and then that's going to introduce the angle that I start to bevel up on the edges. So also, last thing, be patient. It takes a long time. So be comfortable. Be patient. Have them close their eyes. You don't want them looking at you, you know, as you're trying to cut their bangs. It's kind of unnerving, but this is a very iconic style for a reason and a lot of people don't wear it because it's very difficult to do. So if you practice and if you practice on a doll head and you get the doll head right, any human should be right as long as they don't have some big cowlick in the front. So check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave them below and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching. Vintage pin up hairstyles have always had a certain unique look. Thanks to Bettie Page hair and her rockabilly bangs, pin up bangs hairstyles have carved a solid niche in fashion, hair and entertainment. An internet search will likely reference Bettie Page pinup bangs and her iconic style. If you liked learning how to cut pin up bangs, let us know in the comments what you thought about the tutorial.   Tutorial

The men's French crop cut hairstyle is known for its short sides and cropped textured top with a short fringe. The sides can have a high or low fade or taper and the top works well with thick hair and even curly hair. A blunt fringe or textured fringe give a distinct look. The French crop haircut is a great style to learn how to cut. Watch the crop hairstyle tutorial below and follow along with the transcript.   Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a practice on the French crop. The French crop taper fade is very very popular. It's very versatile. You can use it on a lot of different textures and a lot of different types but there are some fundamental skills that you really need to hone in and practice and get good at in order to deliver a very very good French crop. So let's study that. Let's get started. To get started what we've done is we've taken the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part down and curved that around into the back so that we have half of the parietal ridge sitting up top, half of it sitting on the bottom.   Tapering and Fading with a Clipper So I'm going to start and just remove some hair. So I just want to get most of this hair out of the way before I start worrying about my taper. So I'm gonna use a number three guard on my clipper and then just go straight up and take all of this hair off. Now as I start to go, sometimes this hair gets pushed up and out of the way. So if I just grab it and pull it into the teeth it makes it easier for me to get all this off. Now whenever I'm doing some short hair like this I don't want to go through and necessarily cut everything in my fingers first and then go through and cut it shorter with scissor over comb or clipper over comb or whatever that may be. Sometimes I just need to remove some hair so I can start whittling my shape in. So now that I've got my overall length cut off and I've established my length that I'm cutting to here at the top, I can go through and approach my taper in one of two different ways. I can skin the bottom up to where I want the skin part to be and then fade from short into long or I can work from long to short. It's really a personal preference on what style works best for you. I find personally if I'm doing something really high, like a French crop high fade, like I'm skinning it up really high, then I'd prefer to skin it first and then work out my line. If I'm keeping the taper lower and the skin fade very low, then I'll go from long to short. So let's go from long to short for a French crop low fade. So I had a three. Now I'm going to go down to a number two and I'll go up about a finger length away and as I start to run up the head I want to rock the clipper away from the head. That's going to allow me to cut this hair underneath short and then as I rock it out it allows me to blend into that longer length. So I finished with my number two. I got everything done like I want. I can look at it from a profile and see that it tapers quite nicely. Now I'm going to go down to a 1-1/2. And on the one and a half I'm going to do the same methodology that I was doing before where I'm not going up as high as the last one and as I get closer to where I want it to start to fade, I start rocking the clipper away from the head. So it's this type of arching motion that's coming from your wrist. I finished my one and a half so you notice that the steps went from three to two to one and a half. Now I'm going to a one. So as I get shorter the steps become smaller because you notice the difference much more as the hair gets shorter and you see more skin sticking out. Now we got a number one. Going to do the same thing. Start low where I stopped before. Run up to that point. Arc the clipper to start working on my blend. Now we're to our 1/2 so I run a 1/2 right at where I want my shortest bit. And then I open the blade a little bit and I start using my arcing motion of my wrist to help the clipper go through and blend that through as best I can. Now I'll take the clipper itself with no guard and just here on the very bottom take all of that little residual hair off. That's not looking too bad.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   So I've gone through and finished my tapering. Now I've gone and washed the hair because the clipper cuts better on dry hair and I can see everything a little bit better on dry whereas the scissors and razor cut better on wet hair.   Cutting the Top Back with Scissors So I've gone and shampooed. Now I've sectioned off from the high point of the head over to the top of the ear and I have the whole back of the head. I want to make sure that this blends well with the underneath without them getting a flat head. So I'll start right in the middle and I will take a parallel section. Now I'm going to separate this according to where the crown is. I'm going to hold this hair at this elevation because I want to make sure I continue this angle of graduation so it prevents me from getting a flat head. So I'll hold that straight out, plant my fingers, there's my guide I'm cutting from. Now I'm going to pull that out and continue that angle that I had there. Take that a little shorter through there by building up a little bit more length in the crown when the hair falls. It's going to continue this natural fall of head shape. So now from here after I've got that length going up from there, I'll use that as my length and follow the head shape from there forward. Oops! Once we got that through now that should be a nice curved shape blending right into my longest part of my taper underneath. I will go through, I will pivot the section from the center, get this other hair out of the way and continue to work that around into the sides. Now I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor this is a 6 inch scissor. It's got a nice little point on it and it gives me enough scissor length that I can really work in larger thicker sections of hair. And it's also good if I need to do some scissor over comb type of blending. Continue up the head working to the center top of the head. One more pivot. Pin this hair out of the way. Take my previous section, hold that out. There's my line from underneath. Follow my tapering angle and then start to head shape the rest of the cut so I continue this nice smooth bevel. I would rather have too much hair through here than not enough because I can always take it down. If I end up with not enough hair, then I end up with a flat head. Fine-tune this a little bit with some scissor over comb, just trying to get a rough shape into it. Get my lengths even. Get everything blended in the back. There we go. Now I'll go through, separate my center section again. This was the original section that I cut and I'm going to go through do the same thing on the other side.   Cutting the Top with Scissors After I finish the back I'm going to go through and take a center section right down the top of the middle and here I know that my bangs are already here. I can go shorter than that or longer. I'm going to leave that about that length so I'm going to go through and cut from this length to this length, going from back to front. Now I like to cut from the shortest part to the longer part. So I'm going to turn to the other side, pick this straight up. There's my short part and cut from longer. I'm sorry from shorter to longer. Holding this straight up into the center of the section straight up towards the ceiling to this length right in the front, comb that forward. Check the lengths out. Think that's okay cuz I can cut this a little bit more in the front. All right, so once we've got that we're going to go through and take a parallel section. I have my center section and my first section that I'm adding to. I will comb those two into the center of both of those sections, cut that going from back to front, from shorter to longer. Get that done. Okay very good. Now I will remove my first section, my first guide that I cut. I'm going to go through and remove that. I no longer need it. I have a new guide now. I'll take my next section and do exactly the same thing, work from short in the back to long in the front.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. I will remove my second section. So now I have the third section and the last section on this side. I'll comb that straight up. There's my guide from the back. There we go. Cut that shorter to longer than the front. Now I'll go back, find my very first section that I took right here into the center, pin this other hair out of the way so I don't get confused. I will add my next section on the opposite side and go through and do exactly the same thing that I did on the right side. Now I'll go through and do that on the left using my center guide to walk my guide all the way to their left side.   Blending and Sculpting So to work on my blend, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is a wood grain so it's a wood look finish and I really like it. I think it looks very cool. You can also use all three different types of blades on it: the Texturizing, the Standard or the R-Type. I am using the R-Type Blade so I get a little bit more blade exposed so I can cut a little cleaner. So from here we're going to hold this straight out. There's my line in the back and I'll just start razoring from short to long in the front just like I was doing on the top. I want to do this little bit right here on the sides to make sure everything blends through. There pull my next section. I will probably not have a whole lot of hair reach and I don't so we'll take a little bit of that off right through there. That's looking pretty good. A little sculpture cutting right through there to make sure I take some of the weight out and have a nice blend. When I do this it's a very gentle laying of the razor on the surface of the hair to remove some weight from it, remove some solidity and I think that that's looking like a pretty good blend through there. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side from here. Okay that's looking pretty good. I want to go through and just clean this line up here in the front, not a lot but just clean that up a little bit. Take a long stroke to take out weight as I cut my length right there, a little bit right through there. Here we're not taking off any length. I'm just going to add a little bit of texture to soften that up and we need a little bit more over here. All right, I'm thinking this shape is looking pretty good. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Final Men's French Crop Cut Haircut Here's our finished look. I think we got a really nice kind of taper. One thing I will say is when you're doing a taper, especially when you're practicing on a mannequin head you're not going to like it while you're doing it. You're going to freak out, but wait till you wash it and wait till you get it dry before you can really judge it completely. It takes a little time to dial it in and to get your hand motions right, but we got a nice little taper. We got it blended through the crown really properly so it has a nice head shape to it. It's not the anti-head shape where it's flat and collapsed in the back. You got a nice little solid top and we've got this lad kind of look in the front where it's straight across but still has a little bit of texture. And I think that this really surmises the French crop in that it's solid, soft and short on the sides with a little bit of texture in the front. So add this to your repertoire practice and it's just skills that you need to have in your arsenal and this is really a straightforward haircut that's very versatile that you can use on a lot of different hair types and a lot of different hair textures and thicknesses. So there we go. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. If you're looking for men's haircut ideas, the French crop is good one. Crop fade haircuts are popular among men all over the world. Learning how to do a mens crop haircut requires precision and proper technique since it shows all flaws. Using various tools to achieve seamless crop cut hairstyles, you can create a masterpiece of your own! Tutorial

The short faded mohawk hairstyle is a popular men's cut. There are many versions of this style. You can have shaved sides for more of a skin fade or a more tapered look. You can create a mohawk burst fade for a more distinct look. You can make a high fade or low fade mohawk as well. As you can see, the variations are limitless! Mohawk fade haircuts are more edgy because there are greater differences in the length of the hair. Mohawk taper haircuts are more conservation because the sides are a bit longer and not as close to the skin. The hair length on the sides vs. the top can make it more conservative or more edgy. Watch this short faded mohawk haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.   Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on one of my faves: the mohawk taper. Now, the mohawk taper can be very, very subtle and conservative, or it can be very edgy and very extreme depending on the amount of texture, the length and where you're going to place it. We're going to show you how to taper it properly, how to fit it to the head, and how to get the right amount of texture in your haircut. So let's get started. All right, so to get started I want to cut my short part first. So I'm going to take from the center of the recession back to the quarter part, and I'm going to curve that around until I get down to the nape. Now, I'm not going to go all the way to the tendon. I'm going to go a little bit further in to exaggerate the fact that my mohawk is going to be separated all the way from the sides into the back.   Tapering the Sides with Scissor Over Comb So I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is a 6-inch scissor, and I like using a longer blade when I'm doing scissor over comb because I feel like it allows me to work with a much bigger section. And I want something that has a nice point to it so I can go through and feel like I can get a lot more detailing than if I had a really small, really rounded-tip scissor. We're going to start here on the side. I just want to go through and remove some hair, starting to taper from really short up to a little bit longer as I go up. So I'm going to go through and just, real crudely go through and cut shorter and get longer as I go toward the top of my sections. And I'm not worried about really fine-tuning everything in. I just want to get a crude shape going from short at the hairline to a little longer towards the parting. Now once I get most of that hair out of the way, I want to start fine-tuning this shape. Now to fine-tune it, we're going to put the comb in, and then I'll make a cut. I'll move the comb up a little bit more, make another cut. Up a little bit more, make another cut. So it's like - bam, bam, bam. Guess what happens next? Bam. Yes. Bam. And I just continue that as I work all the way from the bottom up to the top. The more times that I hit this section, the closer that my scissor strokes are, the smoother that my scissor over comb is going to be. So just start low - low expectation as you go up to the top and continue to fine-tune that as I get to the top of the section. And this is just to get rid of some hair and start my tapered shape in. I don't want it really long here at the top. I want to keep that closer to the head. Alright, so now that I've got all of my scissor over comb down and got my basic taper in on both sides - I got it a little longer at the top, tapered in over the ears, basically graduated - I'm going to go through and take my clippers.   Creating the Fade on the Sides The clippers, I'm going to use an attachment. I'm going to start with a 1, and I'm going to close everything down. So you can adjust open or closed. Open just means that the cutting blade is a little bit further away from the teeth, so it gives me a little softer cut and is going to be a little bit longer. Closed is going to be up closer to the cut of the teeth, so it's going to cut a little bit cleaner and be a little bit shorter. So I'll just lay it against the head, go up against the head. Once I get to where the head starts to curve, then I'll bring the clipper away from the head. So it's this sort of rocking motion to get it close over the ear, and then as I come up, I move the clipper away from the head so that it allows it to get longer. Here in the back, I'll start low, work around the ear. Since the ear doesn't really move, it's a little bit more difficult. Basically, work that angle in a little bit tighter over the ears. Now once I've got this line here done and I got everything kind of clean like I want - it's as close as I can get - then I'll open up the blade a little bit. That gives me a little bit more softness so it's easier for me to blend this a little bit higher. And now I'm just going to use the straight blade, and I have to finesse this a little shorter over the ear and do the same sort of C-shaping method that I was using to get a soft blend. Open it up real tight. Skin just over the ear. Angle this part of the blade away from the head; the bottom part of the blade is all the way touching the head. And once I get this area here real short, I'll start to open the blade and then softly blend that line out through there. Real gently open up a little bit more and that just allows me to taper that in and fine-tune that line out from the head. After I get this done on one side, I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side.   Follow us on your favorite social media: @jataifeather   Blending the Sides Back with my scissors, I'm going to go through and, whatever this parting was, I'm going to take a parallel section to that. I'm going to go through and pull this straight out horizontally, leaving it a little longer right here in the front. And then we're going to go through and point cut all of this length off. I don't want to go through and completely disconnect this. While this is kind of a tapered mohawk, I want this to be a little more on the conservative side. So we're not going to go through and disconnect and leave a lot of this hanging over. There's my parting line. We're going to go through and point cut everything off as we work this all the way down. It doesn't have to blend 100% with the previously cut hair, but I want it to be pretty close. As I get to the bottom, I may need a little more length right through there, which I think is a good thing. So we've got that cut off and I think that that length is looking pretty good. So now we're going to continue to walk my guide and pull everything over to this side. There's my guide from underneath, following my previously cut guide. Now I'm not pulling it down to my short section. I want to continue to pull this straight out at whatever the head shape elevation is. Last section, right at the nose. I'm continuing to point cut this, even though I'm going to go through and cut the top a little bit shorter to get my point taken out. But I want to make sure I have some texture to it. I don't want this being cut really, really bluntly and then having to go back and re-cut everything to have some texture in it. The more blunt the line is that I put into it, the harder it's going to be to start to develop some texture into it. Now that I've got my sides basically etched in – I will go fine-tune that in a minute - but I want to go through and cut the length on the top.   Cutting the Length on the Top And what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a parting. It's going to be a little further back so that I can pull this hair from the front into the top of that parting, right where the head starts to curve so that can leave a little more length here in the front. There's my parting. I'll lay my finger, I'm going to pull everything back into that, and then go through and point cut that to square it off and to cut the little point off that I went through and cut in it by pulling everything to the left side and to the right side. Take my next section - pull it back into that parting, follow the front guide, squaring everything off a little bit. Next parting - plant the finger, same thing. Now once I get to the crown, I'm gonna go through and do the same thing, but in the opposite motion. So here I'm pulling everything back to here. So what I'm gonna do now, is so I can develop and leave a little length in the nape, I'll do the same thing. Find where the occipital bone is and pull the hair up to that point. Square that off. Take my next parting, pull everything up into that. Square it off. Last section - back into the crown. I see my previous guide from the front and I'll match those two into the middle.   Adding Internal Texture So now I want to add some internal texture. I feel like the hair is too thick. So I'm going to take my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai. This is going to go through – and it's seamless but it will remove quite a bit of hair. So the more times I hit it, the more hair that I'll remove. I want to methodically go through and thin it on the first pass just to make sure I have an even amount of texture that going through the whole thing. So I'm going to start here in the bottom - hit that a few times in the middle and then work out toward the ends. So I lift it up right in the center of the section and take some of that weight out. Now I'll go through and do the other side - center of the length, and then a little on the ends to taper my texture and to taper my thinning so I can remove the weight internally and then soften the edges up. So I'll start here in the front, half way. Half way in the middle. And then as I get closer to the edges to smooth that texturizing out. Now I'll do one right down the center now. Oh come here. Now I want to go through and take a little bit of this edge off right through there and I'm going to do that with my texturizing scissors and just go through and trace that hair that's hanging over that I don't think blends very well and just soften that up.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and hit the notification bell to get notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Final Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Look Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think this looks, you know, cool enough without being too over the top. I think it gives it a little modernity without being so extreme and in your face. We've still got this real ultra-clean edge over the ear which - you know once you've had short hair it's hard to let it grow out. So this keeps it feeling clean but you also start to have a little more length in the back, you got a little bit more through here and the back of the head. You got some texture to it. This looks really, really good. It's really modern. And you know I'm glad my clients have been asking for this kind of haircut and demanding it and forcing me to practice at it. Check out the Jatai Academy - there's all kinds of fantastic information there that will make you a better stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Final Thoughts on the Short Faded Mohawk The short mohawk fade consists of short hair on the sides gradually leading to longer hair down the middle for a short mohawk. This haircut can be done on straight hair as well as curly hair. The curly mohawk gives the mohawk strip a lot of texture and fullness. Hair type can make a big difference in the overall look of this style. What you want is a lot of texture in the mohawk portion if possible. For styling, use a pomade, gel or mousse. For a stronger hold, use a pomade. For volume and body, use a mousse.

In this tutorial we explore Lily Collins hair when it was short, similar to how hairstylist Gregory Russell Cut her hair for the Calvin Klein campaign. While we are more familiar with the Emily in Paris stars' long hair with curtain bangs, her short blunt bob is a testament to her more mature and sophisticated side. We demonstrate Lily Collins' beauty and style with this red carpet timeless haircut. Follow along with the video tutorial and transcript below.   Lily Collins Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a one-length bob. But we're not going to do an old-fashioned grandma one length bob. We're going to do something young and cool. We're going to use celebrity Lily Collins as our inspiration. She has this cool one length bob that still maintains the essence of the shape but because it's done with the razor it keeps it modern and fresh and softer and a little bit easier to live with. So let's get started. Alright. So we're going to start by taking a center part or a natural part. Hers is slightly off center, but it's pretty much very very close down the middle. We're going to go to the occipital bone to the mastoid and then I'm going to split that flat section in half so that I have enough hair that I can start to develop my shape but not so much that it starts to clog up my razor.   The Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor I'm going to use my Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor. Now this is in celebration of Jatai's 75th Anniversary and there's only a limited number of these being made. While the handle is not wood, every handle is going to be individual because the wood grains are going to be different, the color variations are going to change from handle to handle. And so once they're gone they're gone. They're not going to make it again and you can buy this individually with just one blade or you can buy it in a kit with a pack of blades and the other accessories that go along with it. And also don't use alcohol-based disinfectants because it can affect the wood look finish.   Creating a Solid Blunt Shape Now we're going to go through and start with our razor bob and the thing that I want to pay attention to that makes this bob modern that Lily's wearing is that the texture is just in the tips. There's not a whole lot of texture that's going to modify the shape and make it piecey. So we want to keep this as solid as possible. So I'm going to hold everything, comb clean straight down. I'm going to find where I want my length at and then I'll put the razor in and I will very gently move this up and down just about a sixteenth of an inch so I can still keep that a very solid blunt shape. We're going to take our next section. Whatever my line is that I parted is going to be the line that I cut in it because I want this to be a little longer in the front. Cutting that down and through. Following my parting on the opposite side, there's my line. We're going to go through. Gently cut that off. Now you want a sharp blade. If you don't have a sharp blade you're going to start trying to saw the hair off. And the more that you're trying to saw the hair off, the more texture that you're going to put in it. Remember I want to keep as little texture in this razor bob as possible and that's what keeps it looking really modern and very very chic. There's my line underneath. I'll lay the razor right on top of it and just about a 16th of an inch razor stroke and cut that straight across. That way I concentrate the texturizing just in the very tips. If I'm working on a model that has very very thick hair and I still want to go through and do this shape, I may run into a situation where I start to build up too much weight and then it starts to look broom-like. So if that happens, then what I'll do is every other section I'll take a broader stroke to remove more weight. But then on every other section I will go through and cut very very blunt like this as much and as blunt as possible to make sure I have that solid line. Now I'll go through. Check this out. We're shorter in the middle, a little bit longer towards the front. So once we got our baseline in, we're going to continue on following the same pattern. Now as my first section was the occipital mastoid, now I'm going to go two flat sections where the head is flat, where the head is flat, right to the top of the ear and that should give me exactly the same angle (the same line) that I was doing underneath. So this line should match that line and then I will take this and split it in half and there's my next section. Pin that out of the way.   Moving Up the Head Now as I start to move up the head, if I feel that the hair is starting to lack a little moisture, I'm going to use my Jatai Blade Glide just to give me a consistency with the dampness. Also, it's going to constrict the cuticle and make my razor cut easier and cleaner. We're going to move on to the next section. I want to maintain zero elevation with my fingers being the only graduation that I get. The only elevation is from this middle finger, but everything else wants to be as flat to the head as possible and I want to keep my razor at a 45 ° angle. I'm not laying it perpendicular to the hair. I want to keep a 45 ° angle as I'm cutting. So I'll put the blade in, angle it at 45 right through there on top of my previously cut guide and cut that down and through. Keep everything T to my parting. There's my line. Cut that through. Check and see how the length is. I think that length is going to be just fine. Continue that through. Now by me laying the blade flat against the hair and cutting everything one length I'm not introducing any kind of movement to this cut or this shape at all. Everything is going to be solid and blunt. I'm trying to apply as much precision to this as I possibly can even though I'm using a soft cut tool where it's not giving me a precision cut like a scissor would. I still want to use the technique and the methodology to make this as precise as possible. So when I'm combing I'm working on flat sections of head. I'm combing from the root clean all the way down and through creating just enough tension to hold the section tight but not so much that I'm stretching it. Laying the razor against that parting right there, cutting that straight across. There's my line. Cut that down and through. Next section, keep everything combed as clean from the parting all the way through to my fingers as possible cutting that straight across. I think with it being a little longer in the front, we have shunned that shape for so long that now when we see it being a little longer in the front it looks fresh again. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now when I come over the ear, since I have to maintain tension on the hair, I'm just going to comb everything into my hand using the comb as the maximum amount of tension that I'll use. I'll plant my fingers. There's my guide from the back and then continue that down and through. I can't go through and do any sort of little tricks as far as making sure I don't cut a hole in it over the ear other than using the least amount of tension as possible. And we have a nice little line that's building up a little length there in the front. And we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Taking my time and making sure everything is combed as clean as possible all the way down. Cut that through. There's my line. Cut that through. Perfect. Looking good. Alright. Let's check our lengths out. I think we're looking pretty good through there. So we've got our basic shape in. Now remember, if the hair was overly thick I could razor in between sections to remove that kind of broom effect that I may get. Let's blow it dry, take a look and see what we got.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The End Result of this Lily Collins Hair Tutorial So here's our end result and I think we're looking pretty good. I mean this is more of a less uptight kind of bob you know and that's what makes it modern is that we still have this solid bob shape, but it's got that little pieciness on the ends that make it look like it's grown out a little bit and keeps it from looking really stuffy and too perfect. And I think that because it has that kind of softness and that kind of tattered edge to it it gives it something really interesting to look at and it catches your eye more than just a real blunt cut bob. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and once again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Lily Collins hair bob is classic and sophisticated. The timeless look defies hair trends and is perfect for any lifestyle. No matter the season, the one length bob will never lose popularity. Tutorial

In this long layers razor cut tutorial, you'll learn how to cut layers with a Feather Plier Razor, an unguarded razor. Razored haircuts for long hair are popular styles that give volume, dimension and a lived-in look. Razored long hairstyles can be created with a guarded razor as well, but here we take a look at using the premium Plier! A razor haircut for long hair is perfect for women who like movement in their hair, feel their hair is too heavy and need weight removal. Razored layers tend to grow out nicely and you can go for long periods of time before needing to get another haircut. Follow along with this tutorial and the transcript below.   Long Layers Razor Cut Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. You have fear of using a razor. You have a fear of using it on long hair. Are you afraid you're going to just take out too much and it's just going to be a stringy mess? I'm going to solve all those problems today. We're going to show you how to control how much weight you're taking out. We're going to show you how deep that you want to go through and add your texture and also how to add detail and make it the perfect amount of texture internally without layering. So let's get started. Starting off razoring long hair, there's a couple of key points that you really need to pay attention to to make it to where you're not fighting yourself and causing more harm and damage than good. We want a soft wispy separated shape and there's a key technique that we're going to show you on how to get that, but first thing let's cover how to hold the razor.   The Feather Plier Razor We're going to use the Feather Plier Razor. This is a razor that does not have a guard. The reason it doesn't have a guard is so it allows me to fine-tune my shape a lot more and also I can be much more precise with where I take weight out. Alright, so I'm going to take my razor where the black handle is. I'm going to put between my forefinger and my middle finger like this. Now I'm going to push the blade away from my palm, clasp my thumb around, rotate my fingers around like this and then I can use just my finger to create motion. I can also use my wrist. And if I'm taking broad strokes I'll use my elbow. When I go and take a section, it can't be too thick. If the section's too thick, the razor can't handle that much hair and it's going to end up pushing it out of the blade and you're going to end up with a really inconsistent cut. I think that's one of the biggest mistakes people make is they take too much hair and a blade that's not sharp enough.   Establishing the Perimeter & Creating Separation So now I'm going to comb everything straight down. The third thing I want to pay attention to is the length of the hair. I don't want to razor it more than about halfway. That's going to be a lot on long hair. So I'm going to keep my razoring to the bottom third. Now if I want I can go through and start razoring my length off or I can start channeling it or I can do both at the same time. I can channel and cut length at the same time. Comb everything straight down, put the blade in about a third of the way down through and then cut my length off. Keeping in mind that I want to create a lot of softness and a lot of separation in the texture. I'm not worried about the line being perfectly blunt cut. I'm not worried about that precision. I want texture. So pay attention to the texture more so than the overall length sure. I want to make sure it's even on both sides, but I'm not going to be real fine-tuned and OCD about making sure the line's perfect. Move on to the other side. Cut my channel through. There's my length. Cut the length off at the same time. There we go. Now I'm going to go through on the other side, cut my channel, cut my channel, cut my channel and then cut my length. Now when I first start using the razor especially a guardless razor, if I'm using one with a guard it's no problem. But a guardless razor as I go through and take sections, I will close the blade so I don't risk cutting myself as I go through and start pulling down other sections of hair. Then, when I'm ready, reopen the blade back in and we're ready to go. Next section. I'm holding everything straight down, following through, getting my channel and then if there's anything on the length, cut that length off. This can move pretty rapidly once you get a good rhythm going and you get a good methodology and you get a good approach. There's a little bit right there. We're going to take just that off a little bit and we're looking good. This is what I'm looking for is this separation on the bottom. Moving Up the Head Now as I move up the head and I move into the next section I'm going to be mindful to not pick up the hair that I've already cut underneath. I don't want to go through and continue to razor the underneath hair. It's already perfect like it is. So I'm only going to go through and razor the hair above it so I don't end up cutting more off than I want to. So I'll separate that completely and visually guess where that overall length is. It's pretty easy to see we're about right there. Now we'll go through put our channels into it very very deep and pretty strong and then guesstimate at where that overall length is going to be. It does not have to be perfect, but I do want to make sure that I keep my next section out of the underneath section when I comb that down. There's my overall length. Let's go through channel some of that hair out. Now this works really well on hair that's overly thick and doesn't have a whole lot of movement to it. If she had very very fine hair I would not go through and channel as deep as I am on this particular head of hair. There's my length. Cut that down and through. And then cut my length off. That's looking pretty good. Now what I find is if I go through and don't separate the hair underneath, what ends up happening is the hair on top feels overly thick compared to the hair underneath. I feel like I start missing the weight of this perimeter weight line underneath. So this is just a safety net to prevent me from over thinning that. An easy way to make sure I don't pick up the hair underneath I can just take a clip and then another clip and then when this hair lays on top of it I don't have to worry about it. It's not so easy to pick up. My next section. And I'm going to continue on with this methodology until I've cut the entire perimeter shape.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather I'm coming into my last section here. And another variation of this technique that I'm going to show you is if the hair already has enough separation on the bottom and I just want to remove thickness, then what I'll do is I will thin it just like I was doing before. But instead of running all the way through to the tip, I'm only going to do a little bit about halfway. So that way I can remove the weight without removing so much weight on the ends as if I was to go all the way down the section. If I already feel that I have enough separation, then that's fine. Just doing a little bit right in the middle of the section is enough to remove the weight and balance out the weight throughout the rest of the haircut without making the ends way too wispy. Cutting the Front of the Long Layers Razor Cut When I come around the front it's quite a balancing act between putting enough texturizing in to soften it and keep the edges real wispy and piecey but not so much so that you have a bunch of little baby wisps of layers happening underneath when I start to blow this back I end up with these little sprouts that stick out. So what I'll do there is I'll take my center section. I will go through and do the same sort of thing. But on the right side since I want the movement to go to the right and I want to layer underneath a little bit less, I'm going to focus more on the surface of the section as opposed to going just straight in and channeling it. So instead of just going straight in and channeling I'm focusing more on the surface layer with steps in between. That way I can start to remove the weight without any little stubs sticking straight up in the air. And then to make sure I get the length going I'll start shorter in the center and build up some texture and length going to the right and then going to the left. If I feel like I need to take a little more weight out, I'm going to do the same thing. I'm going to fillet this off so I hit the surface of the section not the underneath of the section. That is most important just around the bang area. The rest of it you can go through and do whatever you' like. Either way works just fine. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content. My next section here and this should be pretty much it just a formality to make sure nothing really hangs over the sides. Again roll down. There's a little weight right through there so we're going to filet that off. After I finish on both sides I'm going to go through and blow her dry so we can see the results. The End Result of the Long Layers Razor Cut Here's our end result of this razor cut for long hair and I think we're looking pretty good. And the whole point of this video of using a razor on long hair was to demonstrate that it's not just for short hair. I mean some people are scared of the razor you know. They're afraid to cut any kind of long hair with it and you can use it on long hair to great effect in the right way. So we don't go more than half the depth of the hair. We pay attention to how much of the ends that we're taking out to get our pieciness. And we don't cut the underneath hair as our guide in each section as we go up. And that all gives you a much better result like this. And I think she looks pretty good. I think we got a nice texture to it and this is without any kind of layering at all. You get all of this separation and this faux layering just by doing that deep channeling and by going through and putting that invisible kind of layer through it. I hope you learned something about how to razor cut long hair. So anyway check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Final Thoughts on Long Razored Hair Haircuts with razored layers are versatile and work best on thick hair. When you razor cut long hair, it's important to use techniques that are applicable to the client's hair density and thickness. This long razor cut hair is perfect for many women that's timeless and classic.   Tutorial

In this soft undercut tutorial short hair look we use three tools to create the final style: clippers, a Feather Plier Razor and Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC. All three tools have their important purposes and contribute to the final look in different ways. Follow along with the video tutorial and the transcript below.   Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial:   Welcome to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study on an undercut, but we're going to do a short undercut, a pixie undercut. Keep it from being so full on thick hair, still make sure it's got some movement some style and some grace. So check it out. Let's get started. Diving right in because I forgot to hit record on the underneath part but luckily it's an easy part to explain.   The Undercut So I took from the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part down to the nape area and I rounded that out a little bit on both sides so I don't end up with a fat little point in the middle. From there I took my clipper with a number five attachment, hit on and just cut everything underneath off and very short. It's all the same length. Everything off underneath here, just buzz it short to get it out of the way. So after we've cut everything underneath short and clean, I'll take the guard attachment off. I'll take my comb and now I'm just going to go through and around the edges of the hairline fit that in. So I'll put the comb in angle it out a little bit so it's really short around the edges of the hairline and I work that up and out and blend. I'm not going to recut everything up to here. I'm just fitting it in a little closer near the hairline. So this is just tapering that in just a little bit closer. You can certainly go through and use smaller guards to fit that in a little cleaner as well but we're just going to show you options. So after I've got that fitted in we're going to come here into the nape and do the same sort of motion where I'm just tapering that in just right around the hairline. And I think when you go through and you do a little bit of tapering, even though it's not necessarily a massive amount, I think it does add a little more elegance to the haircut overall as opposed to it just being all the same length underneath. So it differentiates me from other people or for someone doing it at home. So it also adds a little style, a little bit of elegance, a little bit of fine tuning and sometimes it's just that extra 10% that really makes a haircut pop and look truly professional. The Pixie Portion So when I go and cut the top I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. Now the Feather Plier Razor is a guardless razor. It doesn't have a guard. It has a super sharp blade so be a little careful, but it gives me the most control over how much hair I remove, where I remove it from and how precise the shape is that I apply to it. So this is my weapon of choice for cutting the top. Alright so now we've sectioned off the top. I've sectioned from where the quarter part would be right at the crown. I've sectioned out the front from the back of the head. We're going to start right in the middle and I'm going to take me a little pie section and make sure it's not too thick. And I'm going to hold this out at an angle. I want this top part of the section to be held at that elevation so I can graduate it. Make sure everything comes out. I know I'm going short here so I'm going to take my Feather Plier Razor and start with a very very broad stroke and cut that up and out. And I think that that length once it bounces up is probably going to be pretty good. Now once I put a little bit more texture into this internally it will make it feel a little shorter as well. So before texture I leave it a little longer. After texture it will make it feel a little shorter. Close my razor. Take the next part. I'm going to pivot out of the center and add the next section in. Again, not too thick. If the sections get too thick then the razor has to push through it and I end up with a line that's not very clean or consistent. Open my guard again, there's my guide underneath, take that up and out. And I'm taking a pretty broad stroke to make sure I maintain that soft kind of texture to it. If I need to put layering in it then we'll do that a little bit later. And I'm just going to continue this pivoting right here in the crown and walking my guide around the head. And I think we're looking pretty good so far. Check that out, see how that's looking. I think that's looking pretty good. Now going through and taking a vertical section will force it to separate into vertical pieces. If I was to go through and take this horizontally then it would build up a much more solid line. So after I've done this side I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Okay now we're coming to the last section on the opposite side and I'm still continuing to cut up from the bottom to the top. Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Make sure we got everything dialed in there lengthwise around the perimeter. Now let's check the other side. So we're going to start here with the center part on top. We're going to separate it left and half sides. Then I'm going to go through and take a vertical section off of the center part using the guide in the back and I'm going to hold this vertically and continue my angle of graduation that I had from underneath, still taking a nice broad razor stroke working from the back into the front. If I want the front to get longer, then once I hit the ear I'll start to pull everything back to that. If I want to maintain everything kind of being equal, I can certainly continue to walk my guide. Next section, holding it out vertically, there's my guide that's falling out, taking vertical sections continuing that through. Now I've noticed that the razor starts to catch in the hair a little bit and I'm drying out so I'm going to use a little bit of Jatai Blade Glide to help smooth the hair out and make it easier for my razor to cut. Continuing my vertical sections, not taking sections that are too thick. There's my guide falling out. That's much better. Slides much better through the hair. Comb that down. I want that hitting right about the middle of the ear which is going to be right at the nose. Doesn't have to be perfect you know. I just want to make sure I get in the general vicinity of the proper length that I'm going for. Next section, pull to the ear so I leave a little bit of extra length in the front that I may cut off but at least I'll leave it there just in case I want to do something with that. Yeah I think a little more length is going to work out well. Take the last section, bring that back to the ear as well. Not much is going to reach from her previous layers that she had around the front. Now we've got that. There we go. Now we can start to see some separation popping in because we've been taking vertical sections. After I've cut both sides it's going to leave me a little bit of a point in the front. Now I don't want this much of a point because I think it's going to become too exaggerated so I'm going to round this out a little bit more and take a little bit of the weight out. So I'll take the entire thing, pull that forward and go through and do a deep channel cut as I'm cutting the length right here at the very front at the same time. It's going to not only remove the thickness and the weight of it, but it's also going to cut some of that length off. I'll go through and do my initial pass. I'll go through and do what I think needs to be done and then I'll go back and look at it and see if I need to take any more out or take any more length off. This haircut has a lot of visual elements to it and I have to determine that those visual elements if they fit as I go. I can't just hit it once and move on. I have to fine-tune the shape with each pass and with each cut according to her hair texture, their thickness, their growth pattern, their waves and what my end result what I think looks good to my eye. I think that's looking pretty good. So let's blow it dry take a look and see what we got. Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Reducing Fluff Alright. So we finished blowing dry and I think the basic shape looks pretty good. It's very pixie like. It's nice and short underneath so it keeps it from really bulking out, but I think it needs a little bit more pop to it. I think it's still a little bit too fluffy. So what I'm going to go through and do is I'm going to take my Jatai Kyoto Scissors. This is the sharpest blade I got and I'm going to go through and do some really deep channel cutting and be very very aggressive with this to get this hair to separate more in pieces so it becomes less product dependent and I can still get that aggressive separation. So I'm not going to take any sections. I'm just going to comb the hair straight down put the blade in about halfway and just go through and chew some big separations between this. So not only will this remove a little bit of weight, but it's also going to give me a much more aggressive separation and I think make it look a little bit edgier and have a little bit more pop to it. There we go. I'm liking that better. Be careful. Don't go through and get too aggressive in areas that you don't want. Just pay attention. Gently apply. You can always add more but you can't take it out once you put it in. So be mindful of that and I think that right through there a little bit. Right through there. I like that better. Final Look of this Pixie Soft Undercut Tutorial Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. We got a lot of texture to it and for as thick as this mannequin head is for it to not be so bulbous and full and still have some separation and movement to it, it is quite showing of the technique of undercutting it and then having enough hair to lay over it and putting a lot of texture to it. So let us know what you think. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial

When it comes to a military haircut for women there are certain criteria that must be met. Hair should be well groomed with a neat appearance. While hairstyles for military women have more versatility, their hair must be secured above the collar and not interfere with headgear. This means female military hair is often worn as a ponytail or bun. Hair can be short or long as well. But in this tutorial we will look at the iconic G.I. Jane buzz cut without using clippers. This is a bold look that can be done in a way that's not the same length all the way around. Watch the video tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Watch this Military Haircut for Women Scissor Over Comb Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of content for Jatai. Today we're going to be doing a G.I. Jane inspired buzz cut, like a military kind of haircut, and we're going to use this as an opportunity to take it into a technical deep dive of scissor over comb. It'll give us an opportunity to practice. We're going to cover all the key points, how to move the scissor, how to move the comb, what kind of scissor you want, how to apply it and when to take a break. So let's get started.   The Military Haircut for Women Tools So the first thing I want to start with is my scissor. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor. Longer scissors work better for doing scissor over comb. Sometimes a fatter blade works well when you're trying to just motor hair off, but I find a good basic normal scissor that's not too thick or not too thin but long enough gives me all the options that I need for being able to do scissor over comb well. The next thing I need to pay attention to is how you hold your comb. Holding your comb properly will enable you to do better scissor over comb more smoother and apply the technique much faster. So I'm going to start by taking the butt of the comb putting it right in the crotch of my pinky. I'm going to put my thumb and forefinger on the spine and the teeth side of the comb. Now this way I can rotate my comb back and forth and it allows me to get into a rhythm as I start to go up and down. And as you start going over this you're going to go over this a lot of times. So this enables me to have a nice smooth scissor flow and enables me to focus on what's being cut, not on the comb itself. Scissor Over Comb So the first thing we want to do is go through and I'm going to lay the comb against the head, pull it out a little bit and just cut this across. I'm doing a very crude cut. I'll move up maybe a half inch maybe a quarter inch as I go up the head straight this way until I run out of hair. Now you're going to see little lines in it and that's okay. I'm not worried about it being perfectly flawless at this point. I want to go through and get that extra length off so I don't have to waste my time going through and cutting all of my length off. And I'll just attack this horizontally across the back and just go up and out. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather Now at this point I want to go through and start really cutting it short. At the bottom I'm going to cut it the width of the comb. As I go up, the comb is slow going to start to come off of the head just slightly as I go up and round it to the crown. Comb down. Start low. Put my comb in. Follow the head. Put my scissor in same width as the comb. So whatever the comb width is that's going to be the length that I leave. Once I get about right here that comb starts to leave the head as I come up and out. Now I start to get a nice smooth transition as I'm going from against the head to away from the head. I'm not worried about all the little scissor lines that I have right now. I'm starting to whittle the shape down. So I start very crude with maybe five or six passes and then as I continue up the head I go maybe 15 passes and by the time I'm finished I will probably have gone over this a couple of hundred times with my scissor as I start to work up the back of the head. And I'm working to the ear.   Addressing the Finer Details Now I'm going to change my comb to something that's a little more detail oriented. The bigger the comb, the more crude the shape is. The smaller the comb, the more detail I'm focusing on. So now I'll start and do exactly the same methodology I was doing before, but this time I'm going to go through and scissor it a hell of a lot more. So as I start to start low I'm uh-oh. I'm following the head shape as I slowly come up and once I hit the occipital bone I start to come away from the head a little bit. After I've got that section done through there I'll go through and do the next section and the next section and the next section all the way over. And what you should see is a light dusting of small little baby hairs that are going to land on your hand. As I get to the occipital bone I start to come out from the head a little bit and what I'm looking for is this very very light dusting of hair. I want it to be almost fur like so that that way I can be assured that I'm getting a nice detail cut. When I'm focusing on scissor over comb, it's less about how much hair I take off and if I can see it as much as I get into a rhythm of going through and cutting my shape and I hear the scissor cutting. Cuz sometimes the amount of hair that gets cut off is so small that you can't see it and it starts to fine-tune the shape. And when it gets really fine-tuned I'll see something that looks like a little bit of a line right, but I can't judge how much hair I'm going to cut off. Or I'm used to cutting in my fingers, I can see how much I'm cutting. Here I can't see so what I have to do is go through and just trace what's already there and once I trace that line anything that sticks out that's not supposed to be there will get cut off. Now we're starting to get a nice soft shape through there and I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. That's looking pretty good through there. I'm liking the way that that's looking and that didn't take me too long. So now let's continue our tapering into the sides of the head. Just going through and crudely starting to whittle my shape in and down against the head. And once the head starts to round then the comb will come off of the head slightly as I work up and over.   Smoothing & Tightening the Military Haircut for Women Once I got that shape done I got that down to where I feel that that's as good as I can get with my big comb then I will go in with my smaller comb and smooth that out and tighten that. Now why don't I just go with the small comb in the first place? Cuz it's too hard to deal with that much hair. The longer the teeth are on the comb, the more hair that I can deal with. The smaller the teeth are on the comb, the less hair I can deal with. And it forces me to deal with smaller sections of hair. Start here at the bottom if I need to come under the ear. Get the motor running and slowly start to go up as the comb. As the head starts to round I leave the comb from the head and start to round the shape out a little bit. I will generally do this right to the mastoid. Very good. Now once I've got this done and this done you'll notice I got this little transition here between the front and the back. So when that happens I'm going to tilt the head. We've got this hairline and this hairline which is parallel. So now I'm going to go through parallel to that and work that up and out. What that does is that allows me to still follow the head shape and then continue to work that up and out. So I'm pretty comfortable with that. Now we're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Alright, so now we're going to start here on the top and in the front. I'm going to take this section, pull it back just a little bit so I leave a little bit of length right here at the front and just crudely start to remove... come on baby...my length up here on the top. And I'll do that until I get to the crown. Next section. And I'm doing the same sort of methodology that I was doing underneath. It's just now I'm working from the front going back and then I'll work on the sides blending into the top, but I just want to get a rough shape of all this hair on top being cut short. So what I'm going to start doing is just going through and working in little pie sections just to go from short and rounding my shape out. Cut that up and over. Give us a thumbs, up click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Freehand Haircutting As I get close to everything being dialed in like I want I can go through and then freehand over the shape just to get those little whispers of hair off, but I want to be very very mindful and conscientious because as I start to tire out I don't want my hands to start shaking and then I end up cutting a hole in the haircut and then I have to go back in and recut the whole thing around it because I got sloppy near the end. And that's usually when things are getting dialed in where you have a momentary loss of muscular coordination and the next thing you know boom! There's a hole. When you first start doing scissor over comb it's going to be rough on your hands and your hands are going to cramp, your thumbs are going to cramp. You know it's not going to be pretty. So I want to work a little bit and if my hand starts cramping I'll take a break. And it's okay. You don't have to power through it. I mean I've got 30 something years of experience and my hands are strong from all the years of doing this and your hands will be too when you're doing it as long as I have and as much as I have. Practice. Practice practice practice. The key to this technical deep dive about doing scissor over comb is the flipping of the comb, the motoring of the scissor. Make sure you have a blade that's long. If it's too short it's going to take you forever. A longer blade allows you to cut through more hair at one time than a smaller blade. Smaller blades force you to deal with small sections. Larger blades you can deal with larger sections and then just follow the shape and follow your guide and keep dialing it in and dialing it in and dialing it in until you get everything nice and smooth like you want.   Final Military Haircut for Women Look You look very G.I. Jane. Anyway, alright I hope that this technical deep dive has helped you picked up some pointers. Practice. Get your hand strong and you'll be able to do it great as well. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kind of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist or barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much. When it comes to female military haircuts, the styles are simple, groomed and have a neat appearance. Military hairstyles for females can be short or long but pulled out of the way. This very short cut is reminiscent of G.I. Jane and while it's not a military women haircut that's common, it is a possible style that can be worn!   Tutorial

Watch, read and learn in this 90s Jennifer Aniston meets Gwen Stefani hair tutorial! Hair in the 1990s had some notable styles that have remained iconic to this day. One of the most popular were Gwen Stefani hairstyles and particularly the one where her hair flips out. Of course, Jennifer Aniston also had the iconic Friends hairstyle that everyone remembers. Learn how to re-create that fun 90s layered look with this blended Jennifer Aniston and Gwen Stefani hair tutorial!   1990s Layered Jennifer Aniston Meets Gwen Stefani Hair Tutorial:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing '90s layering. Layering in the 90s was all about getting the hair to flip out and to get some pieciness to it and some softness and a lot of movement to it. It was about having glamour but a casualness to the glamour, a more of a lived in kind of glamour. So we're going to use Gwen Stefani and Jennifer Aniston as our inspiration and I'm going to show you how to get the hair to piece out and flip on the bottom, how to get some fullness and force the hair to flip. So let's get started.   Cutting the Perimeter Okay I'm going to start with a natural center part. So I'm going to start right in the middle. Take a flat section right there in the center. This is going to be my guide length for both sides of the head. Now when I comb this, I'm going to comb this just like I do all of my other perimeter shapes. I'm combing clean from the root down. Once I get to my fingers I am going to switch it up because the 90s layering is all about hair that flips and has a lot of movement and a lot of flickiness to it. And to encourage that I am going to turn my fingers up. So as I point cut, that's going to slightly cut the top layer of this section shorter than the underneath and will encourage it to flip. We're going to comb everything straight down. I am using my Jatai Osaka Scissor. This is 5-1/2." It's got a good amount of sharpness to it and it's got a nice blade point to it so I can go through and point cut this very easily, making sure that the line is even on both sides but not necessarily blunt. I want this to have some soft separation so I'm going through and doing an exaggerated point cut with my fingers flipped. After I finished the first section I'm going to continue taking parallel sections all the way up the head until I run out of hair and I have cut my entire perimeter shape. My next section here I'm going to start right in the center again. I'm going to comb everything out of the way. In the middle, comb everything straight down curving my fingers up as I go through and point cut that through. Next section, there's my guide from underneath, a nice exaggerated point cut as I continue to work from the center of the back into the sides of the head. Exaggerating my flip. Aright so we got our last section here. We're going to comb everything down, still flipping my fingers, making sure everything blends through. Length is looking pretty good. So now let's move on to our layering. Flickered Layering Okay on my layering we're going to start right in the center. I'm going to take a center section and where it's flat that's going to determine the width of my section so I got a center section from the front running all the way down to the center of the back. So now I'm going to right at the crown, separate the front from the back. Straight up in the air measure where I want that to hit around her face. Let's start with about right there. Go through deep point cut that to keep the textures the same and to keep my layering really flicky. I'll take a small piece as my guide. I'll take the next section working towards the back. Comb everything clean from the root all the way up straight up and cut that horizontally straight across point cutting it to keep the texture really soft and flicky. Small piece as my guide. Go right back to my crown. There's that. Cut that all the way through. So far we're doing just regular layering, but as of right now to make it 90s, I'm going to take my next guide and from here instead of pulling that at 90 or over-directing up, I am now going to pull this straight out the back. There's my length. Cut that straight up and down. My next piece, the perimeter starts to fall out. There's my guide. Cut that straight up and down. So what I'm effectively doing is leaving a corner in my layering right through the crown. So what happens is when this falls that's going to build up weight. Because it's layered more underneath, it's going to cause the shape to collapse and force this to flick out even more. So I'm forcing as much flip into this as I can get by layering it this way. Straight across and then once I get to the crown, straight out the back. The next section parallel to this first section all the way straight back into the crown, into the nape. Pin this hair out of the way and now at this point I'm going to pull everything, this next section, into the center section right here into the center of the head. There's my guide. Cut that across. Small piece as my guide. The center section and the new section straight up. There's my guide length. Everything gets pulled straight up towards the ceiling. I reach the crown right here. Straight up again and I'm pulling everything into the center. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   There's my guide from underneath and the top. Pulling everything to the center. Come on. There you go. Now we got the first two sections. So now I'm going to take the rest of this whole right side and do exactly the same thing. I don't think very much hair is going to reach but I'm going to hold it up and check and make sure that nothing does. And if anything does I'm going to cut it off to the previous guide that I had in the center of the head. There we go. Small piece is my guide. Quarter part to the crown. Pull everything to the center. Using my center first, mohawk section as my guide, cut that through. Small piece as my guide. Next section pull everything straight back into the center. Cut that down and through. Now that we've cut this whole side, let's comb it back and take a look at it and see how it's looking. So as I start to shake it you can automatically see how it's forcing the hair to flick out into these pieces and it's getting really separated and you can really see individual little pieces of layers flick out. So let's go through and do the same thing on the other side. So since I held everything straight up, I need to go through and make sure that my layering really fits in around the front because if I pull everything straight up when the hair falls, it's going to show, it's going to mirror this hairline in the end result of my perimeter. So when I comb this down, it's actually going to go back down, recession and then down. So I need to go through and make sure I have a smooth blend so that my layering doesn't get lumpy around the front. Very simply take the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear over the hairline. Do this on both sides. So now that I got this sectioned out. This is all the hair that has the ability to fall in the face. So I want to make sure that that smoothly blends and it doesn't reflect the hairlines from me pulling it up.   Blending So we'll comb this forward. Now I don't want to go through and recut everything. I just want to go through and blend this line around the front. So I'll take a deep point cut. Take half of it to the right side and half of it to the left. I'll continue to hold this hair straight down combing it clean from the part all the way through and clean up any little discrepancies that I have from pulling it up in the air.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   We're going to continue. Comb everything straight down a natural fall. Place our fingers. You can see right through there. So I'm going to take a little bit of that out, a little bit below it. I want to cut that a little deeper there. There we go. I like that. So now I have that blended so I don't have to worry about my face framing being lumpy. Alright, so let's blow it dry see what we got.   Jennifer Aniston Meets Gwen Stefani Hair Tutorial: End Result Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think this is you know very much spot on to what Gwen Stefani was doing when she was going to all the award shows in the 90s and she grew her hair out. She was wearing the flip, but it's also reminiscent of Jennifer Anderson when she had her Rachel cut where it was really layered but it was flippy on the bottom. And I think the flip gives it a more casual kind of glamour as opposed to this overtly voluminous glamour. And I think it's a nice little technique to have in your back pocket when you need it. So check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching.   Tutorial

A simple long layered haircut is a popular style among women with long hair. If you're looking to update and refine your techniques for long layering, this tutorial can help. Long layered haircuts are classic, timeless and beautiful. Hair layers give volume, dimension and depth. It removes weight and makes hair come alive. To learn how to cut long layers in hair, follow along with this YouTube video tutorial and transcript.   Simple long layered haircut tutorial:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be studying how to cut a layered haircut. Long layering means you're going from really short to really long and trying to make sure everything stays nice and smooth. It's not very easy, but I'm going to show you a pattern that works really well without making it lumpy. So let's get started.   Sectioning You know one of the fundamentals of cutting hair is excellent sectioning. Until you can really section hair properly, every haircut you do is going to be amateur at best. So let's spend a little time making sure that we get nice clean sectioning that fits the head, that positions the haircut properly on that particular person's unique head shape. And that will all go towards making the end result so much better. So we're going to take a natural or center part all the way down to the center of the spine, occipital to mastoid, match that on both sides if I can. There we go. Establishing the Long Layers Cut Baseline After I've gone through and done all my sectioning properly, I'm going to go through and establish a baseline. A baseline is the overall length of the entire haircut. I'm going to be using my Jatai Osaka Scissors. Now the Osaka Scissor is a long thin blade. So the long blade allows me to deal with a large section of hair, but also since it's got a little point, I can go through and point cut to it. But since it's beveled a little bit I don't have to worry about jamming myself and point cutting my finger. I can focus on point cutting the hair. Also the metal that this is made of is very very good. So it's going to stay sharp for a long time. First thing as with all of our baseline establishing haircuts will start right in the middle. Comb everything straight down. Get to the desired length that I want and then I'll go through and point cut my baseline because I want to keep this baseline very very soft. If the hair is too fine or overly fine, I may go through and blunt cut this. I just find it's so much easier to go through and point cut a line as opposed to blunt cut the line and then try to soften it afterwards. So after I've established my length, I'm going to go through and parallel section this all the way up section by section until I run out of length and just make sure everything's the same length all over. Layering Around the Front So after I've gone through and established my baseline all the way around either by blunt cutting or point cutting as I did, I'm going to go through and start fitting the layering in around the front because it's technically part of the perimeter of the shape even though it is the layering. And the layering, usually the most important part is going to be the shortest piece around the face because that's the piece that they see and that's where it's the most important to them. So I want to make sure I get that piece of layering right before I continue that on to the rest of the head. So to section that out, I'm going to put my finger right at the high point of the ear. And then I'm going to lay the comb against the front of the head where that falls through. You can start to see where the short piece around the front is going to fall. Now sometimes, if the client has a lot of bang like she does which is pretty short, it's going to be kind of hard to establish where I want my shortest layer to be if I don't have enough hair. So in that instance I will go through and take the section a little further back and take that to the mastoid which is that bump right at the base of the ear behind it. So that way it gives me more hair to determine my layering around the front and also gives me a little bit better blend. Take a little piece right in the middle. This will be the length of my shortest layer. So let's just say that she wants this to fall right around her mouth. Maybe when it shrinks it'll be between her mouth and her nose. So I want to go somewhere in between there.   So I'll measure visually and then kind of pull that up and leave my hand planted there in the air. Re-comb everything to my fingers where I'm holding it and then cut that length. See that falls right at the middle of her mouth. Keep my section clean. There's my guide from. Visualize where it's going to. Support my scissor and then go through. Cut that down and through and continue to build upon that angle as I get further and further down the head. And as long as I don't cut that piece of hair off at the longest piece of my layering I'm fine. If I cut that too short then I bevel my layers around the front and it becomes Farrah feathers as opposed to face framing layers.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Get that out of the way. Go all the way down to my length. There we go. Perfect. Okay after I've got both sides, the initial face framing done, I'm going to take the rest of the hair comb this down and forward. And anything that hangs off down here at the lower part, I'm just going to lightly blend that down and through. There shouldn't be a whole lot and it's just basically this little area right here that I need to make sure it doesn't overhang the layering in the front.   Creating the Haircut with Long Layers To start my layering I want to go through and take a center section from the front all the way to the back. This is going to be my mohawk section. After I have my mohawk section, I'm going to hold this up 90 ° from the head. This first piece is my bang. Here was my established length that I determined around the front. So that's going to be the length that I'm going to use to determine the shortest with my layering that I can go. We'll cut that straight back using our guide in the front. Small piece as my guide. The next piece is going right to the crown of the head. I'll hold that up. You see how much length I'm starting to take off right through there. So at this point, whereas before I was cutting the same as the head shape, at this point at the crown I'm going to now start angling my fingers so that the length will start to get longer the further back of the head that I go. I'm not going to start dragging the hair forward. I'm just going to lift it up at 90 and then angle my fingers. That gives me a consistent amount of elevation so that my layering has a consistent amount of weight. Next piece, 90 from the head angling my fingers. Working that down and through until I run out of hair which should be right around the occipital bone. Perfect. So now I've effectively gone from being short to long with a perfect blend that is an even amount of weight all the way through. So from here, to be able to start pivoting this and making sure I work that layering around, I'm going to go to the high point of the head, pivot from there down to the corner of the hairline. I'm going to do the same methodology I was doing in the back half of the head which is holding everything at 90, angling my fingers. There's my previously cut guide. I also have the length guide here on the top and my length guide there on the bottom. So I have three guides. Continuing this 90 ° from the head, angling my fingers, point cutting that through. Next section. Same thing. 90 ° up and out. Perfect. There should be very little if anything right there on the bottom. Now I'm going to remove the previously cut section as my guide. Pivot which is going to be right to the mastoid. And follow the same pattern that I was working. There's my angle. 90 ° angle that up and out. There we go. As I start to work around the head, that angle is going to feel like it really really increases and that's okay. Okay because we now have less head to go through and blend top to bottom so that angle does feel like it increases and it's okay and that's why we've gone through and done our face framing layering first so that we don't have to worry about so much hair around the front blending through with the back. Remove the previously cut section. My next section I will take right in top of the ear right there. It's more important that this section blends top to bottom than it does to the previously cut section. So I could go through completely disconnect these sections, every one of them from the previous, as long as they blend top to bottom. That's all that matters. So don't freak out if you're getting pretty short. You can always disconnect front to back as long as it blends top to bottom. It takes a little practice to get this kind of methodology down because you're working with such an extreme angle. Remove the previously cut sections. There we go. Hold this up. Now as I'm starting to get into the sides, there should be very little to cut as I'm starting to reach my face framing layering that I started with. And you can see right through there, the angle of the face framing is the same as the inverted angle of my layering.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Maybe a little bit right there. Very good. So after I finish the layering on one side, I'm going to go back and take the exact same center section that I started my layering with and then do the exact same thing on the opposite side.   Long Layered Hairstyle Final Look Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. The layering, the face framing around the front gives me a smooth transition and I'm really pleased with that. The evenness of the layering and the weight distribution throughout the back through the layering I'm very very happy with that. And I threw a little curl in it just to be extra, just to make it look fancy. But the overall shape works really really well. I hope that helps. A little bit of practice goes a long way and I think you can really add something like this and make your layering vastly improved. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of a fantastic information on there that will make you a much better hairstylist and barber. And also let us know what you like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much. Long layers in long hair is a classic style that will never go away. While there are various ways to create long layered cuts, this method is easy to understand and emulate. Let us know if the techniques used in this layered haircut how to video was helpful! For more, visit Jatai Academy which features many different hair tutorials for layered hair, short hairstyles and more using scissors and razors.   Tutorial

Are you familiar with the Chelsea haircut? The Chelsea cut was a popularized counterculture punk haircut that women and men wore in the 70s and 80s. The look back then was a combination of a shaved head with longer hair in the front. Often associated with skinheads, the Chelsea haircut history actually has no political roots and was aimed more at being different and not adhering to the beauty standards of the time. 80s female hairstyles back then were glamorous, long and big. This British haircut was a stark contrast to the hairstyles seen on magazines. In this video, learn how to create a modified Chelsea haircut. Instead of a shaved head punk look, we're leaving the hair longer in the back for a softer look, but still keeping the overall structure of this England hairstyle. Hence, this modern punk hair look. Follow along with the Chelsea haircut video tutorial and transcript below.   The Chelsea Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a reimagining of the early 80s hardcore Chelsea. We're going to bring it up into the new Millennia. We're going to add a little bit of Japanese texture to it. We're going to still make it clean and hard and edgy but yet a little softer at the same time. Anyway, let's get started. So the whole idea behind the Chelsea originally was that it was a middle finger to the fashion industry because the fashion industry and the beauty standards at the time, you know, in the early 80s was this glamorous bodacious cosmopolitan kind of post disco glamour where everything was super tan, super long, super hot rollered, makeup all the way to the hill and that was what the beauty standard that was being pushed was. And the Chelsea and the punk rock you know movement was really a revolt against all of that. And it was like oh from the front I got this hair but then in the middle it's all buzzed off and shaved and then I got a little hair in the nape. And I think that the iconic you know nature of that haircut is what really caused it to stick around for all these years. So we're going to go through and do a modern interpretation of that. So first thing, let's section out the front section. We're going two flat sections right here to where the bang section would be. Section to right behind the ear and then we're going to take occipital bone to the mastoid or less depending upon the shape that you're going for. And then all this hair in the middle is what we're going to cut really really short. So all of this center section we're going to go through and section out where the crown is and take that to the top of the ears so that way I can get my shortest part separated.   Addressing the Back and Front of the Chelsea Haircut I'm going to start with my Feather Styling Razor and I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade gives the most exposed blade, so it gives me the ability to cut more hair and get a cleaner cut. We're going to tilt everything down so we can see. I'm going to take a section right in the middle. Now classically, all this hair would just be buzzed short, but since we're doing a softer more modern interpretation of this, I am going to take this short. But I'm not going to buzz it. So I'm going to hold that up and I'm going to push everything down and see where the hair starts to bend and right there at the end of that first bend is the length that I'm going to go through and cut it. Check my length there. Looks good. If anything is too long I'll just thumb that off. So now we've got our shortest piece. So I will hold that 90 degrees from the head. There's my short piece right there and we will go through and cut that down and through. And I'm just cutting everything the same length all the way down right now. We're going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. Now if you noticed I cut inside out on both sides. That way I get the same sort of movement on both sides. Using my guide length cutting that down and all the way through seeing how that falls. And I'm liking that so far. I like that a lot. Okay so now I'm going to go through on my front section, take a parallel to my previous section that was right in the middle. Here's my first section. Here's my next section. I'll do that on both sides. First section still being pulled at the same elevation in the same angle, but now I'm pulling all the hair back into that guide right in the middle. Check that out. That looks pretty good and then just work that all the way down by continuing to pull everything into the center until I run out of hair. Everything pulled to the quarter part in the middle, the previous cut section. When your guide falls out, cut that down and through. Got a little long right there. So I'll go through, check that length. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now we're going to take our last section here on the top. Pull everything back, follow that original guide cutting from the center out towards the edges. You certainly see we cut that quite short through there and that's the whole look of it. We want a shocking amount of length difference so that we can really really make a statement. Keep going until we run out of hair there. That's looking pretty good. Now if we look at that I'm liking that quite a bit. Now we're going to go back. I'm going to take my original center parting. So here's the first parting right through here. I'm going to take a parallel parting of my hair from behind the quarter part. Now from here I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing I was doing before where I'm pulling everything into my original parting that I cut my original length to. So in the front I pulled back. So in the back I'm going to pull forward. Here's the length right there. It's falling out. Cut everything that same length and work that from the middle until I run out of hair. Continuing on the other side, everything from the center pulling to that original guide. And we got that. I'm going to continue on until I run out of hair. We've got all of the center part of our haircut done. We've pulled everything to the quarter part and got everything nice and short.   Reducing the Blend If I'm happy with this I can move on, but I think what I'm going to do is we've got a pretty good buildup of length going to here and I think I need less of a blend through there. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go through and take a vertical section and change the angle on that. So instead of it gradually increasing in length I'm going to keep everything the same length all the way around the back. So we're going to start here. There's my guide length there in the crown. And I'm going to continue 90 ° from the head all the way down into the nape where I reach the very top of my parting at the occipital bone. There we go. Now we've got instead of increasing in building up length I have maintained the same length all the way down from the crown through the nape. From here, I'll pivot. Follow the same pattern, pull everything 90 °, find my guides, cut that down and through until I reach the top of my parting in the nape which is pinned out of the way for safety's sake so I don't end up cutting that. We'll keep going until we run out of hair. Keep that one out of the way. Come on.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There I like that. I like that better. That's got a lot more pop to it. It's a little bit more dynamic. So we have this complete disconnection of our short hair into the nape. So it kind of makes this righteous kind of mullet shape. And while I love the fact that it is so disconnected I want to go through and soften that up just a little bit.   Blending Around the Nape So I'm going to go through and visually add some blend so that it's not so severe of a cut off. I think if I was to buzz this shorter and go for the classic Chelsea it's fine, but for this I'm trying to modernize it to make a softer more approachable kind of look. Okay so from here I'll take a center section. Take it vertical. You can see the severity of the disconnect so I'm just going to go through and very gently give me a little bit of a blend. I'm not worried about it blending like completely perfectly. I still want to keep that real severe kind of mud flap going on in the back. Take my next section. I'm not even going to look at my previously cut guide. I'm only looking at the short piece of where I'm coming from and then the length of where I'm going to and trying to go through and add a little bit of blend through there so I get a little bit of softness and separation through there. And then the same thing, get that little piece up there where it belongs. The same thing on the very last section on this side. I think what I need to do is put a little bit of channel cutting into this to really add a little bit more separation so that while my mud flap still has some blend, I want more separation to it. And you see by putting that vertical texturing, that separation, how it instantly forced the shape to collapse and now it's a lot more head hugging which I like better. So I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I'm liking that quite a bit. Blunt Bangs and Hair in Front Okay so now here around the front I'm going to separate my bangs. Let's go through and cut these really really blunt. Since everything else is so soft in this haircut with so much texture from the razor let's make this bang, this fringe very hard and make it the focal point of the entire haircut. So I'm going to comb everything clean from the roots all the way down. I'm going to plant my fingers and then gently clamp with zero tension and then going through and using my Jatai Osaka Scissor, it's the sharpest scissor I got with a nice fat heavy blade so I can really get some power behind it. I'm going to cut everything nice and clean and blunt right there across her forehead. There is my fringe section. Cut that solid across. And I don't want it to get longer so I need to change the angle of my fingers. I'll get a rough shape into it and then once I finish the rough shape and blow it dry, then I'll go through and clean it up. After I've got the bangs cut, I'm going to go through and take the entirety of the left side comb everything down. You can see my short little separation right here. My finger is going to match where I want that to fall in the front and then a little shorter gradually getting a little longer going towards the front so it hugs right there at the chin, right at the jawline. Now let's do the same thing or try to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. I think we might have got lucky and got it on the first shot. Don't speak too soon though, but I like the way that's hitting the chin. Ouch! I'm going to go buy a lottery ticket. It's actually even. I'm pretty happy with that. Now at this point let's blow it dry, take a look at it and see what we got. Final Look of the Chelsea Haircut Here's our end result. I think it looks pretty cool. I think it looks pretty, a re-imagined version of an early 80s hardcore Chelsea. Softens it up a little bit, adds a little bit of you know modernity to it keeps it soft but yet still edgy. There's always a juxtaposition between styles when it comes to a Chelsea. You got this hard clean front and then this wild Japanese textured in the back and I think that that works well for the right person. Anyway, check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make your better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial

One of the most iconic long hairstyles is the retro 70s feathered haircut. Reminiscent of Farrah Fawcett's style, this look has lots of volume with or without feathered bangs. Using a round brush or curling iron to create the iconic face framing curls and style feathered hair, this look is a type of cut that has lived on for decades. Watch this 70s feathered hair tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.   70s Feathered Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of 70s feathered layering. We're going to modernize it using the Feather Plier Razor and I'm going to show you all the key points, how to make it move, how to make it flow, how to make it piecey. So let's get started. To go through and start I'm going to take a natural or center part to the crown, the crown to the occipital bone, occipital bone down to the center of the spine, occipital bone to the mastoid, which is that bump right behind each of the ears. I'm going split this section in half because it's a lot of hair and I can't deal with that much hair at one time. I want to go through and establish my baseline of length.   Establishing the Perimeter of this 70s Feather Haircut Now she has a lot of hair and it's very thick and I want to keep it that way, but I do want the ends to be soft and airy and light. The classical way of doing a feathered haircut is you cut everything blunt and then you hit the ends with a thinning scissor. I'm going to get a similar result by using my Feather Plier Razor. It is a guardless razor and it will give me the cleanest cut of any of my razor tools that I have. So I'm going to start right here in the middle, comb everything clean from the roots all the way down to where I want my overall length to be and then we're going to go through and with a pretty broad stroke cut my overall length. This is going to give me a little flicky separation on the ends without a lot of weight on the ends, but it's still going to be a solid shape because I'm not going through and doing a lot of internal texturizing. We're going to take our next section, bring this straight down. My fingers will run slightly past where I cut previously and then try to keep the same sort of razor stroke all the way through. We're going to do the last section on the left side. And here I'll start on the inside. Try to keep the same razor stroke. And you'll notice I keep this hand perfectly still. So once I plant my fingers this hand does not move, only the razor moves. I want a nice clean cut line. Now we're going to take the next section. Bring this down. Start right in the middle. Comb this clean all the way from the roots down through the ends. There is my guide that I'm cutting to. Open my razor. Cut on top of my guide as closely as you can. Now the shape of this is going to be very very soft. So I'm not worried about everything being exactly perfectly on top of. As long as it's in the general vicinity of where my previously cut guide was, I'll be fine. There we go. Here's my guide. Cut that across. Check that. We got a few little pieces there. And now we'll go through and check and make sure it's similar in length on each side and I don't have any long little pieces that I missed. And I'm liking that and that's looking pretty good except for that. There we go. That's looking pretty good. Now I'm going to continue on doing the same method of just taking parallel sections all the way up the head until I've cut everything the same length. Going to go through and finish our last section here and just make sure there's no long little pieces hanging over. Try to keep everything combed to the same area that I was combing it in before with my underneath sections. Meaning that if I combed everything at an angle and I was holding everything parallel to my parting, I want to make sure that each section is being held in exactly the same spot that the previously cut sections were so that I don't end up pulling one section too far forward or another section too far back. Not much to cut here, but just making sure everything blends perfectly.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Creating the 70s Feathered Layering So now to go through and work on my layering, I'm going to go through and take a section where it's one flat section, two flat section, the third flat section right here down to the corner of the eyebrow. That's going to give me a pretty steep little angle here. I want to make my partings match the bone structures of the head so that it's easier for me to match the left side to the right side. If I'm going off bone structure and not just randomly guessing it's easier for me to be more precise about my partings. Okay so now from here I'm going to comb everything T to my parting and pull this forward. And this part is going to be my shortest piece right through here. So I want to kind of visualize where that's going to fall and I'm thinking probably about to her chin is a good length. Pull this forward, visualize where that short piece is going to be, comb it off the peak curvature of the head and then cut from the center forward. So what this is going to do is this is instantly going to build this same steep angle into my section that I cut and it's going to start forcing the hair to feather back. And since I'm holding it up at elevation it's going to layer that and keep it light and airy. Now the next section I'm going to go through is going to be parallel. I'll take a flat section parallel to the previously cut section. Make sure that that parting looks the same. Now from here it's going to start to get tricky because I want to elevate off of the peak curvature of the head. So the first section is showing me to hold it there. The next section is showing me to hold it here. The one after that will be here. So each time as I go further and further back I get more and more elevation. So I'll section here. I'm going to pick up all my sections of hair making sure that I don't pick up any hair from the opposite side of the head. I want to make sure that this is pinned down, that I can't pick any of that up. Because if I pick that up it's going to end up getting short in a hole on the other side. There's my previously cut guide. There's my razor. Keep the same broad razor stroke so I can keep the same sort of texture throughout. Following the curvature of the head and cutting that down and through. Check that and you can start to see I'm getting a real steep angle and everything's already starting to move and feather back. Next section parallel to the previously cut section. Now as I start to go back it's easier for me to tilt her head down and continue my line going back than it is for me to try to over elevate. There's my guide from underneath. Remove some of that. I can't handle all that hair at the same time. Bring that out and through. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. It's important to keep my partings as parallel and as even as possible. Now we're starting to elevate more. Tilt the head down a little bit more. There's my elevation. Pick up my razor. There's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Down and through. You can see I'm starting to run out of hair as I reach the perimeter over the ear. Cut that down and through. Remove some of that. My next section going off continuing off the peak curvature of the head and you can see I'm starting to really run out of hair as I reach the top of the ear.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Next piece. There we go. Got just a little bit right there and the crown and I bet as I work here to the sides there's going to be little to no hair to cut. And there we go. So now let's go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Alright, here's our end result of our cut. We've got a lot of layering concentrated here around the bang area and the front top of the head. It blends through, but it still maintains a really solid shape here on the bottom and it allows that lightness of the layering to feather back while still maintaining that shape. So let's go through and blow it dry and then we'll see what we got.   70s Feathered Haircut End Result Here is our end result. And I think that we really captured you know the essence of what a feathered hairstyle was and that's light and airy layering around the front gradually getting more solid in the back with a real solid shape back here on the perimeter line and light airy feathered layers around the front view. And by elevating everything and pulling it forward and going off the head shape that really helps release the weight and then combining that with a more modern approach of using the Feather Plier Razor that keeps me very light and airy in my layering but still helps me build up a nice solid shape. And I think that she looks pretty good. I like it a lot. Note: Her hair color is light, but this will work on darker hair colors as well. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and until next time take care. Thank you so much for watching.   Tutorial