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Tutorial

Re-Imagining the Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut using a Razor

Tutorial

Re-Imagining the Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut using a Razor

The Vidal Sassoon 5 point haircut is one of the most iconic haircuts of the 60s and 70s. Alongside the Vidal styles he created for Grace Coddington and Nancy Kwan, the 5 point cut is often synonymous with the Mary Quant haircut. Professional hairdressing at the time was dominated by Sassoon cuts and Vidal made a statement in the fashion industry with his iconic cuts, salons and books. Today we can re-imagine Vidal Sassoon haircuts in a lighter, softer way. With the five point haircut, we can still maintain the geometric haircut shape but give it a modern look.  Watch this Sassoon 5 point haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Vidal Sassoon 5 Point Haircut:     Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to do a challenge. It's a challenge for me to do this iconic Sassoon five-point haircut that was so... it really is what kickstarted Sassoon's career and really created the whole aesthetic of the late 60s and early 70s with this mod look. It's real solid with a beveled bang, two points on the side, three points in the back, but we're going to modernize it and do it with a razor. It's a challenging haircut, but we're going to show you how to soften it, give it a lot more versatility, and add a lot more texture to it if you want. So, let's get started.   Graduating the Back I'm going to start here with a horizontal section from the crown to the top of the ears. And then we're going to take a vertical section right down the middle. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor. This is a guardless razor, so there is no protection on this. So, you needs to be extra careful. And it is extremely sharp, but it also gives me the most control over cutting a section of hair. And I'm going to go through and graduate this section in the back. Take a parallel section to that and continue to work all the way over to one side by walking my guide. So, I'm going to pull it out. I'm going to visualize what length of the top of the graduation is going to be, where it hits the ear. So, I'm kind of visualizing where that top of the parting section is, and I want to kind of see where that's going to hit the ear. And then I'm tapering it down, graduating it down shorter around the nape. As I cut the center section, that's my guide. And then I start to walk my sections all the way over to the left. So, I'll take the next section, add it to the previously cut section. So, I will remove the previously cut section, and then add to that. So, here I'm taking my next section, and I'm removing all the other hair. So, I only have the previously cut section and the section that I'm cutting. Holding that straight out in the center of both of those sections and cutting from long to short. Longer at the top, shorter in the nape. And I'm leaving a little bit of extra length there at the nape so that I can make sure I can get my points very defined. Working all the way over to the side. Now I'm getting in right behind the ear. And I'm just following the same guide that I started in the center back. Walking that all the way over to the ear. I can change the angle of graduation that I want. If I want it to stack up a little bit more, if I want it to be a little bit more even like this. It's all dependent upon the angle of graduation that I create. And here's the end result on the left side. We're going to take our center guide and I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side. Once I finish that, I'll take my next horizontal section, which is going to be the center of the recession all the way right back to the crown. Take a vertical section in the center and then follow that same angle of graduation that I was doing underneath up and out. So I'm basically graduating and stacking the whole back so that I get a nice pleasing round head shape in the back. So by leaving this longer in the crown, it's actually going to bevel the shape and make it look much more pleasing in the crown. If I tend to change the angle here and go straight up, it tends to make the back of the head look flat. So here I'm doing exactly what I was doing underneath. Taking my previous guide as I'm walking that all the way around to the side and then blending that in with the hair that was cut underneath. Once I get to the quarter part here, I'll start to pivot my angle and the parting is changing. So no longer is it just straight up and down, but it's actually pivoting and leaving a little bit more length in the front. So each section I take is a diagonal pie section off of that hairline. I'm sorry, off of that parting right at the quarter part using the guide that I had created originally from the back. Working that longer as I get around the front. So I'm almost getting like a little bob shape around the front. Now, it's not going to be a bob shape in the end because I am going to cut it out over the ears, but this certainly gives me and saves enough length around the front so that I can work everything in nice and smooth. Then from here, after I got that shaped like I want, do the same thing on the other side.   Building Weight on Top Now, I'll take my next horizontal section and I'll take this all the way around the head. And from here, I'm no longer going to cut vertically. I'm going to hold each section horizontally out. So, by holding each section horizontally off the peak curvature of the head, I start to build up a little bit more weight on the top of the head. So, a vertical section is going to be less solid than if I take a horizontal section. So, I want it less solid underneath. So, I take vertical sections. More solid on the top. So, I reserve some length. I take horizontal sections. And then I'll just continue to work that from the center of the back all the way around into the sides and to the front. Now, this blade is very, very sharp as all the Feather blades are. But since this doesn't have a guard, I have to be a little extra mindful so that I don't end up cutting myself. But the benefit of this is that since it doesn't have a guard, it's very easy to get the exact cut line that I want. And that's the beauty of the Plier Razor is that it gives you the most control and the cleanest cut of any of the razors that I have. Now, I'm going to continue to work this section all the way up into the center of the head. So, I'm just going to keep following the same type of methodology that I was working before. That got a little bit long. So, we're going to take a little bit more off. And I'll continue to work this until I end up with all the hair on the top being cut into the side lengths.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, detailing this a little bit to make sure I get the line as clean as I want. I can just pinch a little piece of hair off and then lay the razor right on top of it. And that pinching gives me the tension and allows me to get a nice clean cut. So, I'll work this all the way up into the center of the head. The same thing I was doing before. That curvature of the head shows me where the parietal ridge is. That's the elevation that I'm holding it up at. So, I get a nice stack of graduation and just following the previously cut guide. Now, this haircut is going to require a tremendous amount of detailing, especially as I'm getting that beveling around the front, but I'll show you how to do that. So, you can see certain stages of this haircut where you think, okay, well, that looks pretty good just like that. So, you can stop there. You don't have to go through and bevel this. There's a lot of options and a lot of versatility with this type of haircut.   Beveling the Front So, I'll take a section around the front of the head from the first bump of the head to the high point of the ear. I'll hold everything straight down. Start cutting where I want my bevel line to be around the front. So, the bangs in the center, that's where I'm going to start and then clean that up. Now, you'll see here I'll lay the hair on my finger and then just use the blade to scrape anything off that doesn't quite fit and isn't as clean as I want. There we go. Just pinching that up and getting that nice and clean. There we go. I like that length there. Now, we're going to continue to work that into the sides into the point right there in front of the ear. So, I'll pick a guide from the center and then I'll angle my fingers to match the angle of my face framing and that beveling around the front. And then I will cut that line into it. And then I'll start with a nice even cut. Try to get it as clean as I can and then look at it and then fine-tune it as I need to. Like right here, there's something that doesn't match. So, I'm going to pull that forward. Cut a little bit of that off. Make sure that I take my time and fitting everything in because this haircut is going to show every fault and flaw that you have. And so, you have to take your time to get it to fit just right. And right there, that was good. That makes everything flow right from the center of the bangs into the corner right there where my point is in front of the ear. Now I'm combing everything forward like a little bowl cut. Take my section from underneath as my guide and then go through and cut the rest of the hair on top of it directly on top of my guide. I try to keep the razor stroke exactly the same throughout each section so that I can maintain the same amount of weight and the same amount of texture. I don't want to start with a real loose razor stroke underneath and then go with a real tight one on top. I want to keep everything even. And then if I need to go back in and take some weight out, then I can go through and purposely take weight out. I want to be very, very methodical. Even though I'm using a razor, which is a softer, more free type of cut, I still want to respect the methodology that I'm going through and cutting. And here I'll keep combing. Comb and comb and look and see where it doesn't fit. See where I need to clean it up. It needs to be cleaned up right there. So the same thing. Pull forward. See where it's not blending. And then fine-tune.   Fine-Tuning Now right here, I'm going to take my quarter part and right on top of the ear, I'm going to pull out a piece of hair, pinch that, and cut that real short. Right there. Not on top of the ear, shorter than the ear, but laying right on the top of it. Then I'll take a section at a diagonal going from the ear down into the nape. And here I'm going to switch it up. And since I was using my Feather Plier Razor, now I'm going to switch it up and use my Feather Styling Razor in the limited edition wood grain. So this way I can really get in there and fine-tune more without fear of having to cut myself because sometimes I need to fine-tune more than I need the cleanliness and the control of what the Plier provides me. So this way I can go through and get a really nice clean shape and I can continue to fine-tune without fear of cutting myself. And now I'll just start pinching over the ear and making sure everything blends like I want. And then pinching around the front, making sure that all blends. And I just keep fine-tuning it as I need to. This is a shape that just requires a lot of refinement to make sure it really falls in like you want it to. Now here I'm going to exaggerate my points in the back. These are the three major points in the back. So, I'm going to make sure that we can really arc that hairline out to get my kind of Batman kind of tail and then the wings on the side. I felt like the front was probably a little too thick and a little too solid. And since I wanted a modern version of this, I'm going to go through and razor a little bit, flat razor it to take some of that weight out. This is going to give me a nice lightness and softness and airiness to it so that when I blow it dry, I'll have a lot more versatility to it. And here there's something right there, right there at the corner of the eye that I just don't like. And I'm going to keep cleaning it up until I get it perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media, @jataifeather   Blowdrying, Styling and the End Result Once I get all my detailing finished like I want, I'm going to go through and start blowing dry. And then I'm going to use my Du-Boa styling brush to dry everything very, very neutral back and forth and back and forth until I can get everything nice and smooth and neutral and as much fullness as I want to so where I can whip the hair back and forth. After that, I'm going to put a little bit of texture paste on it just to enable me to get a little bit of separation and to make the shape really, really pop. Now, I think this looks pretty good. All right, here is our end result of our modern day five point. We got the key points here. We got three in the back. We got one on one side, a nice little bevel to point on the other side. And I think that the razor really adds a nice texture to this and makes it look really modern and fresh. You know, this is a very challenging haircut for a lot of people to do, especially me. But even to take it a step further and do it with a razor, I really think modernizes this really hardcore 70's Sassoon, 60's Sassoon kind of look. So something to add to your repertoire, something to practice. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. And also let us know what you'd like to see in the future. We'll see you next time. Thanks for watching.  
Halle Berry Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Tutorial

Halle Berry Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

When we think of a Halle Berry short haircut, the first thing that comes to mind is the pixie cut. The Halle Berry short straight hair pixie haircut is her iconic red carpet look that has captivated her beauty and fashion forward hairstyles. In this tutorial Russell Mayes, re-creates this celebrity Halle Berry haircut using a Feather Styling Razor for an easy, soft look. With bangs to compliment the face and a little styling he creates a splitting image of the Halle Berry pixie cut. Watch this  video and follow along with the transcript. Halle Berry Short Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. And today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to do a pixie inspired by Halle Berry. She has great pixies and they're all different kind of lengths from really short and really clean to a little longer, a little more medium. But the things that I think they have in common is they're all almost the same length all the way around. So, we're going to show you how to get a little bit of softness around the edges without it looking mullety. We're going to show you how to get the right texture to it so you can have some fullness and some length without it starting to feel bulky and kind of old-fashioned.   Sectioning So, to get started here, what I'm going to do is I'm going to separate the top of the head from the bottom of the head. So, separating the bottom of the head, I can work with just the short part. Then the top part's going to be a lot easier once I got all this fitted in. Because to make sure that this gets fitted in around the edges and still be feminine is something that's going to take a little bit of detailing. So, we're going to deal with that first. Deal with the hard parts first. I'm going to take the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part. Quarter part to the occipital bone. That's going to give me the whole right underneath side. Now, from here, I'm going to section off at an angle right at the front of the hairline, which is going to be parallel to this hairline right behind the ear and parallel to that hairline right at the front. I find that by going parallel to my partings, it has a nicer flow to it and it fits the head shape better if I work within the boundaries of the hairline.   Starting on the Sides Now, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor and the limited edition wood grain. This is my favorite. I think it looks cool. And I'm using the R-Type Blade. The R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut more hair at one time. But I do have to be a little more conscientious because it is exposing a little bit more blade. So, we're going to start right here in the front at my first angle. And I think that what really makes this kind of pixie pop and still is a little feminine. I've looked at a lot of pictures of Halle Berry's haircut and a lot of them will have a little bit of graduation here on the side. So, I'm going to start putting a little bit of graduation into it, but we have to be careful to not get too much weight stacking up so that it starts to look kind of frumpy. So, that determines I'm going to take a very broad stroke so that I can cut my shape and cut my length without building up a whole lot of weight. So, I'm going to take hold of this parallel and then my fingers will determine what angle of graduation that I'm going to start with. So, I'm going to start with something about there. And I'm going to take a very broad razor stroke all the way down and through. Now, at this point, I want to look at it and see how that's fitting in. I like the lengths of it, but I can tell already that it's going to start building up too much weight. So, as I start to go through, I may start doing some channel cutting to remove some of that weight. Our next section, which is parallel to that first section, comb this into the first section. Hold out from the head. Find the angle that I was working on before. There it is underneath. I can see that. Try to take a nice broad razor stroke like I was doing before. Cut that all the way down and through. And then check and see. And I think we've got a little too much length here on the top. So before I start going all the way through, I'm going to take some of that length off the top. And I think that that's looking better already. That's looking better. Now I'm gonna go through and put a little bit of delicate channeling through here to remove some of that weight and see how it's looking. There we go. I like that. Now we're going to take our next section which is going to be parallel. And I'm running that all the way down in through the nape. So I've got my first, second, now my third section. I'll remove the first section. Now I will have the second and third section. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A nice broad stroke as we go down and through. That's looking pretty good. Now, right here, as I get to the middle of the ear, I can either choose to have more length down here on the bottom and make it kind of a waif-ish pixie, or I can fit this in really tight. Hold this parallel, same stroke, and cut this parallel to my parting. So, that's my parting. That's the line I'm cutting. Now, we're going to take our next section, which is going to be parallel to the same. And I'm going to keep working this same methodology until I get to the center back of the head. Now, we're going to take the last section right here, holding it out from the head with the previously cut section as my guide. Cut that down and through. And I like that. I'm going to take a little bit of channeling through here just to remove some weight and create a little separation. So now I'm going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side.   Back Half of the Head All right. So I've gone through and separated the front half from the back half of the head. It's very important that I make this back half fit in and follow a head shape. If it starts to get too short, I'll make the head look flat in the back. And then that looks really ridiculous. And nobody wants to have a flat head. Take my center section. Now, when I hold this out from the head, I can see the angle of graduation that I already have here underneath. And I want to continue that up and bevel it out. Hold that out. There's my guide from underneath. A little bit longer as I start to go up. Once I go past one flat section, I will go to the next flat section. Hold that 90 degrees. There's my length. Continue that up. When I get to the top, all the way and through. Now, from here, I'm going to pivot from the center piece that I had up there and make a little pie section as I work around to the side. Hold these two together. There's my guide from underneath and follow the same shape that I was working on underneath as I work back up following my guideline.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Pivoting again. Remove the center guideline that I had. So now I only have section two and section three. Fold this up and out. There's my guide from underneath. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Cut a little bit. Re-comb. Follow that all the way up to the very top. Then I'm just going to continue working this until I reach my quarter part. There's my guide from underneath and my previously cut guide.   The Top of the Head Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So, I'll take a horizontal section to my very first parting that I had, which separated the top from the bottom. I'm going to hold this out, determine the length from underneath, and then go through, lift this straight up and out. There's my guide from underneath, and continue the same broad stroke, holding this horizontally straight out from the head towards me. Not lowering my elevation to build up any weight but continuing this straight up. My next section's going to be parallel. Take my section underneath. Hold this straight out towards me. There's my guide underneath. And then go through and cut everything to blend. I could leave this longer if I was going for more of a Tinkerbell type of pixie or where she had more length on the top. You can take this parallel and make it all short on the top like some of a lot of her pictures were. We're going to make everything nice and short, but you could certainly go through and leave this a lot longer and disconnect it. A nice broad soft razor stroke as I'm working through there. And I'll go all the way till I reach the center of the head and hold everything straight out. Elevation coming towards me. Making sure that I'm not lowering my elevation. And keep everything nice and broad and soft. And so what that does is that also gives me a nice curved shape on the side of the head as well as the back of the head. All right, so we've got the underneath cut.   Removing Excess Length on the Top So now let's go through and take a center section and start dealing with our excess length on the top. I got my center section. And I'm going to hold that straight up in the air. There's my length from underneath. I'm going to turn the razor over and go through without moving my left hand. Just razor the top of that off. Keep a nice broad stroke and gradually increase the length as I go towards the front. There's my next piece. Let's get some of that hair out of the way. There's my guide. Now, at this point, the head is starting to curve, but I'm not curving with it. I'm continuing to go straight with it. That will leave me a little bit of extra length in the front that I can go through and fit that in later to make sure that the bang length is exactly the length that I want. I don't have to get it right right now. Now I'm going to take a parallel section walking to the left side. I'm going to comb the center section and this left section together. There's my guide from underneath. Let's go through. Cut that length. Working from back to front. Take my next parallel section. Comb that straight up. There's my guide from underneath. And as I start to get to the left side, you'll notice I'm running out of hair because I've already cut everything to blend in with the side. So, all I have to do is make sure I get the length on top, the length I want. And there's nothing else to blend through there. Perfect. So, now I'll go back to the center, find my original guide, which is right there, and then I'm going to add my next section, and do the same thing on the other side.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Bangs Now, let's go through and fit in our bang section. And I'm just going to take a horizontal section straight across from recession to recession. Take a little piece right here in the middle. A nice broad long stroke through there. I think a little more. A little more. We're going to make sure we get some good separation through there. And all I'm doing is looking at that center piece to see where that fits. And I think that that's going to be okay. Now, we're going to take our next piece next to it. I'm not picking up a guide. I'm just visually going to cut to try to fit this in in its area where it lives. So, I'm not using a guide other than just visually looking and seeing what looks right and pray a little bit and make sure I don't cut everything off completely. We're going to comb everything down. There's a little piece right there. Fit that in. Perfect. Right here. No guide. Just purely visually fitting this in around the front. Now we're going to take the next piece, comb this down. Anything that hangs over and looks too thick, I'm going to go through and fine-tune. Take a little bit of the weight out through there. A little bit here. I'm surface cutting right on the top. So, I cut the top layer shorter, not the underneath that I've already cut, just to see if anything hangs over. If something starts to get too thick like that, then I'll go through and start fine-tuning that as well to make sure I get my separation like I got underneath. I think the razor really lends itself to creating the perfect shape for this type of haircut because while it still gives it a strong shape, there's enough softness and separation and looseness to it that it can really look lived in and still remain very glamorous. So, let's blow it dry and see what we got.   Halle Berry Short Haircut Final Result Here's our end result. And I think that we got a really nice shape, especially around the crown, so you can get it short and full, but still have a nice pleasing head shape to it. I also think that we have a nice kind of soft perimeter shape around the edge. And on these mannequin heads and somebody with really thick pokey hair, this is kind of hard to achieve. So, you want to make sure that you compensate for however much inverted graduation that you put back here so that you leave a little bit of softness around the edges. We've got a nice little bit of graduation to it without it looking too bulky or too bowl-ly. And I think that looks pretty good. The bangs, you know, you can do so many different things with them. You kind of sweep them over, get them up out of the way. You know, you can have them kind of come down. whatever is your preference and whatever the style of Halle Berry pixie that you're going for. So, please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Halle Berry hairstyles have mostly erred on shorter side. Her haircuts are classy and sophisticated. Sometimes it's straight and sometimes it's wavy. But Halle Berry short haircuts have remained her staple look and they look great on her! We hope you learned how to use a razor for this Halle Berry cut. Check out our other tutorials for other short haircuts.   
 Choppy Layers for Long Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Choppy Layers for Long Hair Tutorial

If you're looking to create choppy layers for long hair, you'll want to go through this tutorial. Layered haircuts can come in various forms as not all layers are made the same. Choppy haircuts are hairstyles with a lot of separation which creates more distinct layers. These styles are trendy and have a more rock and roll feel. They work on short, medium and long length hair so the techniques described below apply to all lengths. Whether it's straight or wavy hair, choppy layered hairstyles can work for most hair types. Watch this long hair with choppy layers tutorial and follow along with the transcript.    Choppy Layers for Long Hair: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be doing a study on long hair choppy layers. But we don't want choppy layers like it was a mistake. We want choppy long layers that looks good, balanced, and creates a lot of texture. This haircut's all about getting separation and pieciness and getting that kind of lived-in layered feeling. So, we're going to show you how to section it. We're going to show you how to build the right texture by doing some deep channel cut with our razor. And we're going to show you how to do a nice little face framing around the front. So, we're going to start here working on our perimeter shape and the overall length of the whole haircut. Natural part to the occipital, occipital to the mastoid. And then we're going to section off a center section.   Channel Cutting the Perimeter I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. And I'm using the limited edition wood look. I'm also using the R-Type Blade. And the R-Type Blade exposes more of the cutting blade so I can cut thicker sections of hair and it gives me a little bit more control. Now I'm taking horizontal sections and taking very very deep solid severe channels because I want this hair to separate. So I want to leave it a little longer than I think I need in order to give me the overall length that I want. Because I'm taking such severe channels out of it, it's going to make the ends look and appear a little bit thinner, which is going to make it appear a little bit shorter. So, cleaning up my shape there. Now, we're going to go through and take a parallel section as I work up the back of the head. So, every section is going to be parallel. And I'm going to start the exact same way. Start right in the center. Comb everything clean and then a very deep solid channel cut all the way through to force that separation, to force that texture to pop into these tendrils. If I take the channels much closer and much finer, I'm not going to see as much separation. It's going to diffuse the texture and I'm going to be more product dependent to get that separation. So here I'm just cleaning up a few pieces that got a little bit longer that I want to make sure that it's not sticking out too severely. So it looks like it's longer on one side than the other. And I'm just going to go through and follow the same methodology. The deeper the channel, the more hair I take. The stronger the gap becomes, the more separation that I force into each section. So, my layering that I'm doing here is really only going to be in the last six/eight inches of the hair and just following through exactly the same methodology to cut the entire perimeter shape to get the texture like I want. Sometimes the hair in the middle didn't reach so I'm not going to cut so much in the middle. Where it gets longer on the sides, I still want to get everything the same length all the way across. As I pull some of the neck sections down, there's not a whole lot of weight removal that needs to happen. So, I'm just taking off any kind of length that hangs over my perimeter shape to make sure we get the lengths the same. But then on the sides, it does need a little bit of weight removal and a little bit of channeling to make sure that the textures pop just like the center and the underneath sections.   Face Framing Now, we're going to move on to the front. And I'm going to take the first bump from the hairline and take that all the way to the top of the ear. That's going to section out where the hair falls in the face. Now I'm going to take a center section right where her hair parts. I'm going to pull that forward and that's going to be my length for her shortest layer around the front. I'm taking that little triangular section right where her hair separates and splits. Now I'll split that in half. I'll take the left and the right so I can have a guide for each side. Now here, working on the left side of her head, I will take a diagonal section, pull that over to the opposite side, and use my length from underneath to create a really steep angle for my shortest layer around the front where her bang section is to blend in with all the face framing that I'm going to start to introduce as I work into the sides. Now, the steeper that angle is, the faster the speed of movement that I create going from short to long. And just continuing that all the way down to the perimeter length that I have at the ear.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Now, we're going to go through and do the exact same thing on the other side, but in the opposite way. So where on the left side I was pulling everything to the right, here on the right side I'm pulling everything to the left because I want that increase of length to force it out of her face right at the fringe bang section and then that blends into my face framing layers. Now I'm not going through and putting a lot of texture into this section because it's already a little bit finer and thinner. And if I need to create more channeling, then I'll do that where the sections get a little bit thicker. Check our lengths. They look pretty good. Now, we're just going to comb everything down. And anything that hangs over my face framing, I'm just going to cut that off. Now, I want to be mindful of my perimeter shape right at the ear section. So, when I worked on my perimeter in the back, I've cut everything all the way around, and now I'm working on my face framing. I want to make sure I don't cut that perimeter length right at the top of the ear. If I cut that, that shifts the weight behind the ear and it no longer hangs full around the front. So, still taking a long razor stroke to make sure that I have a nice soft texture to it. If the hair gets thicker, then we'll go through and channel it and make that a little bit lighter and thinner. Now, let's go through and work on some layering in the back of the head. And this is really what's going to make the haircut pop. Taking a triangular section right in the crown, hold the first section up. Find out where I want my layering to start. And then just like I did underneath, I'm going to go through and take some really deep, severe channels to force that hair to separate when it falls. And because I'm holding it straight up in the air, that's going to add layering to it as well and airiness and softness. So that deep channel will give me a little bit of weight. So when it falls, it pops. Now, here where the layering, I'm sorry, where the razoring stopped on the previous section is going to be the beginning of the razoring for the next section that I cut. And I'm still going to follow the same methodology I was doing before. We'll separate the right half of the back from the left half of the back. Hold that straight up using my guide from underneath to start the razoring. And still continuing that really severe deep razor channel. Just keep holding everything straight up, section by section by section, letting any kind of shorter hair underneath fall out. And there we see my guide from underneath. And I'll start the razoring as I go forward. Checking our razoring on the left side, seeing how it looks before we move on to the right. Now, we're going to follow through with the exact same thing we did on the left side. We're going to do on the right side. Where the razoring stopped from my previous section is where the razoring is going to start for the next section. So, I don't have to be real precise with this sort of layering because not only am I elevating it to the maximum elevation that I can get, which is going to remove the most weight, but because I'm using a razor and I'm going for a choppier look with this really deep kind of choppy channel cutting, it's going to blend smoothly throughout. You're not going to see any kind of real hardcore lumps. It's going to have a smooth gradation in my layering. But because I got that deep channel, it's going to pop out and be a choppy type of layering.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Check our layering. See how it looks. And I think it looks pretty good. I am going to remove a little bit more weight right through the center. I pulled everything up and I pulled everything down. So, I got a little bit of weight build up right in the middle part of the entire back of the head. So, I'm going to take a little bit more weight out through there. And I'm going to go through and continue on with the same sort of deep severe channeling that I was doing underneath just to make sure that we can get those layers to pop and separate like we want. And I want to be mindful of how I'm applying this channeling technique. Where the hair is thicker, I'm going to take a little bit more. Where it's thinner, I'm obviously going to take a little less because I want the weight distribution of her hair to be as consistent as possible.   Addressing the Top of the Head So, now we're going to move on to the top of the head and I'm going to take a parallel parting right to her natural part. I'm going to pull the hair up in the crown as my guide. And then I'm going to go through and channel it just like I was doing in the back on the side of the head to make sure that all the layering from the back blends into my face framing layering around the front. And then just continuing to channel that through and not trying to be real precise and real meticulous about this. This haircut demands a looseness, a fastness of the razor application, and I can't be real precise. This is more of a haircut about feeling. So, I want to make sure that I put that deep channel in it as consistent as possible throughout. Now, we're going to continue on the opposite side, pulling everything up. Anything that that hangs out, that doesn't look right, that doesn't feel right, I'm going to take a little bit of that out.   Blowdrying Now, let's go through and start to blow dry. And when I start blowing dry, I'm going to start right around the front. I'm going to pull everything forward, blow everything back so it kind of gets confused because I want this hair to have some volume, but I don't want it sticking straight out. So, I'm going to start at the bangs because that's the most important part of a blow dry is how it looks around the front. Now we're going to work in the back. I'm going to blow dry everything at the roots to get it off of the scalp so it has a natural fullness. And then I'm going to go through and polish it off from the mid-shaft and the ends with a little bit of a round brush. I want just enough bend to force the layers to kind of separate, but not so much that it starts to look real glamorous. Around the front, I'm pulling everything forward with a little bit of bend moving back away from the face. And then I'm gonna take a cold air shot and blow everything around to get some air in it so it has a more natural kind of look to it. After I got everything dry like I want, I'm going to put a little bit of styling cream on my hands and go through and just encourage those pieces to separate so we can really see our layering pop. And I think that that looks pretty good and everything's popping really, really well.   Final Look Here's our end result. And I think we're looking pretty good. I like the way that the texture really fits with her natural texture. And we got a lot of separation to it. So, this is a type of long choppy layers that still blends and doesn't look too chunky. You got the separation from all the layering in it. You got the pieciness from all that deep channel cutting. And the face framing lays perfect around the front. And this is not about being super smooth. It's about getting some pop from the layers. So, it looks a little lived in and a little more rock and roll than a glamour type of layering. So, I think it works really well and it fits on most types of hair. On all but the curliest types of hair this shape would work really, really well on. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hairstylist and barber. Also, let us know if you have any ideas for what you'd like to see in the future. Any suggestions would be great. Thank you so much. We'll see you next time.  
Modern Farrah Fawcett Haircut

Tutorial

Modern Farrah Fawcett Haircut

We have come to know and love Farrah Fawcett's iconic 70s feathered look. But it's 2025 and some of us want a modern take on the haircut. In this tutorial you'll learn how to cut Farrah Fawcett haircut with a razor for the modern times. 
Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

Tutorial

Short Bob Undercut Hair Tutorial for Thick Hair

In this short bob undercut style, Russell takes a look at a modified bob haircut that utilizes an undercut to remove weight and prevent a mushroom shape. This is not a shaved undercut bob but rather a subtle, soft undercut that leaves a classic hairstyle look. The undercut bob haircut works great on thick hair to reduce volume. Bob haircuts will always be in popular style. Watch this short bob undercut tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Short Bob Undercut:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. Do you have problems with short bobs getting real bulky and looking too mushroomy? Well, we're going to show you how to fix that today. Very easy with some undercutting and some texturizing and a little bit of razor work. And you'll be amazed at the results that you can get. So, let's get started. To preface this whole thing here, when you're doing a short bob, it can get very, very thick very, very quick. We're going to go through and we're going to undercut the shape, but we're going to undercut it in a specific way where we're not necessarily skinning it and making it very, very edgy. We're just going to take all the weight out from underneath and it's still going to bevel through and blend in the back. So, I think that that's very important for this sort of shape even though we're going to disconnect it and we're still going to maintain a nice clean bob line. All right, so first let's get with sectioning. Here we go. All right, so the first thing I want to do is go through and separate the top from the bottom. So, I can take it as high as the center of the recession or I can take it anywhere lower from there. So, I'm going to go a little lower than that. So, I still maintain a real strong bob shape, but I start to take this hair out. That's just going to make it bulky. So, we're going to go to the quarter part. From the quarter part down to the occipital bone. Then I'm going to take it right across straight across the back.   Creating the Bob with Undercut to Remove Bulk So after I feel like I've got this balanced like I want and I have enough that I feel I can remove enough bulk to keep my bob from being too bulbous, I'm going to go through and take my Jatai Osaka Scissor. Now this is a 6-in scissor that has a nice strong solid blade, so I can take and cut a large section of hair easily. and it's nice and sharp. So, I'll go through the entire section without any kind of resistance. So, from there, I'm going to take hold this section. Take each section. I'm going to comb everything straight up. And I'm going to lay my finger right at the parting. Pull this straight up. Cut that straight across. So, what that's going to do is that's going to cut the top of the section a lot shorter than the underneath so that when it falls, it's going to fall and collapse that shape really close to the head and remove a lot of that bulk. Start here on the sides. Comb that section straight up to the parting. Cut that straight across. And just do that all the way from the front into the nape. I don't have to be real precise about this. I'm just going through cutting the length off. Oops. And since I'm holding it so high up at such extreme elevation, it's going to take all the weight out of this section and leave me just enough hair around the edges that I can start to fit in. So after I've got that finished, I'm going to go through and start fine-tuning this in all around the edges. And I'm going to use my Feather Plier Razor in white, no guard. And I'm gonna go through and just visually take a little piece of hair, a little vertical section, go through real gently, lay this flat across my section, and start to fit that in closely against the head. I can go through and start really fine-tuning this shape and take some of that length out and make it fit in a little bit nicer around the edges. And I'm just going through this is called filleting. So I'm just going to fillet this section off to get some of that really long hair out of the way. Going through here real gently taking some of that out. My whole idea is just to remove the weight and remove the excess length that I don't need underneath. That tends to make everything really blocky. Very easy to go through and cut all this length off and take that weight out and still have a nice soft underneath shape. Now, before I move on to the top, if I feel like this underneath with this length that I've cut is too much, if it if it still feels like it's going to be too thick and make my bob kind of pop out and get kind of lumpy, then I can go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai and remove some more weight. And the way I would do that is just take the comb, scissor over comb, and I would do it really deep and just walk that all the way up because really all I have to thin is the middle of that section. I don't have to thin the whole thing even though I'm going to. And this will take this will take any of the remaining weight that I have that I don't want out of it. I feel like the Tokyo Thinning Scissor takes the right amount of weight that I can go through and do this very very deep without fear that it's going to come back and bite me because it took too much hair out in one shot. I can hit it multiple times to take more hair out, but I don't have to. We've got all this underneath hair taken care of, and now we can go ahead and start working on our bob.   Creating the Bob All right. So, I've got my natural part, which is a little off center, and I'm going straight back down and halving the head, and then one flat section above where the occipital bone is diagonally towards the ear. And this is going to be the start of my little bob. So, I'm just going to take a center section. And here, I'm going to look at the side of her head and see where that's going to go. So, I'm going to go fairly short here and just cut that straight across. Check my line. See if my length there will be short enough and how it's going to build up there. And I think that's going to be fine. So now I'll start using that as my guide, angling it towards the chin and just start at the innermost part and cut towards the face. Do the same thing on the other side. See where that's going to go towards the jaw. Since I don't have a line underneath, I only have this line here and my length there. Start cutting from the center going towards the face. Check my lengths. See if they're building up similarly. And they're looking pretty good. That's pretty nice. And I'm liking the way that this hair in the back is really kind of stacking in and fitting in underneath the weight of the bob that I'm starting to build up. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section right there. Here's my next section. I'm going to hold it out at elevation. There's my guide from underneath. And then we're going to lay that flat horizontally right across that. Cut my one length and start to build up some weight. Here this comes. I'm starting to build up towards the front using my guide from underneath and the guide in the center and building up the shape that I want to flow towards the shape up towards the face. Parallel sections as I start to work towards the front. Starting in the middle, seeing my guide length from underneath. Combing clean from the roots all the way down. There's my guide length. Get that out of there.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I'm just going to continue with this until I get to the last section. Now, we're working here into our last section on each side. And we can comb that down. And we can start to see a nice little bob shape developing up. And the whole idea behind this this haircut is to give me a bob shape without it having that really mushroomy type of bob because if she has thick hair and you're doing something short, you have to undercut it and you have to start relieving some of that weight from building up and looking very mushroomy. So, by going through and undercutting it and then going through and cutting my bob shape with the razor, that certainly helps alleviate some of that bulk and some of that that mass that starts to develop. Even though I'm holding this down and still cutting it exactly like I would cut a one- length bob, but I'm loosening up from the technique and allowing it to develop visually as opposed to going through and trying to build it very structurally and very geometrically. Now, we're going to go through and blow dry, and I'm going to see what we have. And I'm gonna see how we need to taper this in and fine-tune this in the nape to make sure everything pops just right.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now to go through and remove some of this kind of 70s bevel that we have to it, I'm going to take a vertical section, hold that straight out from the head. Take my thinning scissor and go through and vertically thin some of this hair out so it helps the shape collapse a little bit more. We're going to check that. That looks better. And then let's continue that on as I work around and get to the mastoid bone. Nice short little bob undercut to relieve some of that heavy heavy mushroomy weight that we usually get. And I like that right there. That's looking pretty good. Not bad.   Short Bob Undercut Final Look   Here's our end result. We got a nice little blend back in here, even though we did completely disconnect it and undercut it. And we got a nice little bevel to our bob, even though it still maintains a real solid shape right at the jawline. So, this is a very good technique to add to your repertoire in case you have someone with very, very thick, stiff hair that you can get some of that weight out. Now, you don't have to do as much as I did or you can do more. It's very versatile shape and it works on all different types of textures. Maybe if the hair is real fine, maybe I wouldn't do it because you want to build up as much weight as you can to get a real solid bob shape. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you better hair stylist and barber. Also, let us know what you'd like to see in the future. And thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.
Jennifer Lopez Haircut - Fullness, Movement and Face Framing

Tutorial

Jennifer Lopez Haircut - Fullness, Movement and Face Framing

In this Jennifer Lopez haircut tutorial we look at one of her many hair transformations and try to re-create it. JLo has long been known to try many different types of haircuts and hairstyles, both in her personal life and in movies. She has even experimented with hair color from blonde to brunette to black. In her latest movie, Kiss of the Spider Woman, Jennifer debuted a black pixie haircut and a Marilyn Monroe type curly hairstyle which just shows her versatility. Whether it's fashion week, a music video or awards show, this celebrity beauty knows how to change it up! For this particular haircut, Russell demonstrates Jennifer Lopez's Super Bowl bombshell haircut that exudes fullness, movement and face framing. Follow along with this tutorial and transcript below.   Jennifer Lopez Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive study on JLo and how she styles her hair and when she gets that bombshell kind of look. We're going to show you how to get the texture right, how to get the layering right and how to make sure that you have that strong heavy solid bang that really makes it pop. Now to go through and do this particular type of shape that JLo tends to wear a lot, it's not so much that the hair is layered to get volume and fullness to it. It's kind of a throwback to old school hairdressing where they would cut length and then style it into shape. So in order to create this shape where it's just a natural lived in type of layering, we're going to go through and do some very very deep razoring and I'm going to use the brand new Feather Plier Razor in white. I love the white look. I think it's really eye-catching and unique. And I think this is going to be my new favorite. Now when I'm going through with this kind of retro type of razor cut I'm not focused so much on building a real solid shape. I'm focused more on getting the right amount of texture.   Establishing the Perimeter So I'm going to start with a pretty good gap. Start here short, go through work that all the way down to the tip and then cut that across. So the channels are a little further apart but they're real deep. Go through. Take these channels pretty deep and far apart and I'm not worried about making sure everything is perfect. This is an exercise in loosening up your haircutting. And I'm cutting visually more so than I'm cutting technically by building the shape in a structured way. So I'll take my next section down. I want to use enough hair that I feel like I have a good amount in my hand that it doesn't get real transparent and wispy but I don't want to have so much that it causes the razor any sort of difficulty being cut through. Take my next section, combing everything straight down. Pretty major gaps between my razor stroke. Check that. That's looking pretty good. And I want to make sure that I have texture in the very bottom of it. My next piece, there we go. Cut that down and through. And look at it and I think that that's looking pretty good. We got a little bit more weight over here so I'm going to take a little bit out. You can see how that's kind of clumping together a little more. So I'm going to take a little more out right through there and that's looking more symmetrical and more even across the entire shape. And I'm just going to take horizontal parallel sections until I get everything cut horizontally.   Creating Graduation and Internal Texturing Once that I feel like I have a solid enough perimeter shape as I work up the head, I'm going to start elevating each section so I can get a little bit of graduation in my internal layering that will prevent me from having to go back and remove a lot of length and a lot more texture in the perimeter length because I don't want this to bulk up. I want this to kind of dissipate into tendrils and if I hold everything straight down that's going to start building up a more solid shape. So I'm going to hold the section at that elevation. Let that hair underneath kind of fall out. Continue this real deep channeling as I go through. There's my elevation. There's my length guide from underneath.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now since I'm doing this very fast and loose, there is going to become an opportunity for me to texturize one side a little bit more than the other side with each section that I go up, especially working from left to right. So if I happen to go through and layer one section a little bit more, take a little bit too much hair out, I'm not going to freak out about it. The next section I'll go, I'll leave it a little heavier and that's okay. So it's not about being precise and precision and perfect. It's about just creating a texture to it with that internal separation so I can have that shape and that length there to style it because this is about how you style it as much as it is what the shape of the cut is. When I need to fine-tune something, like say I got a little something here that doesn't hang quite like I want, when I need to fine-tune it, then I can go through, slow down, be real precise, take off just little bits to get the texture just like I want to get the lengths just like I want before I move on to the next shape. I'm going to go through and use a little bit of Blade Glide just to make sure I can keep a consistent level of wetness and also to make my razor glide through the hair as easy as possible. So by going through and putting in so much texture and so deeply, it gives me the illusion of the hair being layered even though technically it's not really layered. The shape is very much one length with a little bit of face framing layering going on around the front but you got to get the texture right so it takes a little bit of time to dial it in. That's where you're spending your time is making sure you get the textures right, the weight even and you get enough internal separation to start to really make that shape pop. Now let's go through after we finished all of that. I'm going to look and see how our shape is looking underneath on the bottom and I'm thinking that that's looking pretty good. It looks like we got some layering because we have all of that movement going through, but it's not actually layered. It's almost all one length and our basic shape with just this internal texture.   Face Framing Layers - Heavy Bangs Alright, so now let's move on to the front. Next section is going to be from the first bump of the head to the high point over the ear. Now I'm going to break this down a little bit further. I'm going to take from her natural part right to the corner of her eye which should be about the center of the recession. Section this out. I'll pin this out of the way. Now I'm going to go through and start my layering around the front. This is really the only, technically, the only part of the haircut that's going to be layered is this face framing around the front. Now most of the pictures that she has she has this real heavy kind of bang that flips or sometimes just kind of cups under and then it blends through the length on the sides with this face framing. So I'm going to start with my bang section and I'm going to take a center piece. I'm gonna look at this and see how much weight I want that to be split on each side and I think about a little bit more. So I'm going to go a little more there. Visually look at it. See where it falls. See how that shape is going to hit and now I'm gonna cut this section. Instead of cutting it at an angle to force it to flow, I want it to have that heavy solid almost disconnect from the rest of the layering. So I'm going to cut this straight across. I am going to use a razor so I have texture, but the line is technically going to be straight across. Right through there. After I got my channeling through it, I'm going to go through and blunten this shape up a little bit so I have... You can see very very plainly where I have my channeling that's going to cause that to separate, but then I cut it blunt right through there. So when I style this, this is going to have that strong heavy shape around the front. Here is where I'm going to start angling this down. So I have my next section there. I'll start here in the front, pull that forward and here where I start angling it into my face framing into the sides. After I get that we're going to make that pop a little more like that. Same thing on the other side. Now we're going to take the rest of this hair here. This section here is all the hair that has the ability and the tendency to fall in the face. I am going to elevate so I have some of the airiness of this face framing. There's my short piece. A nice sharp blade makes this very very easy work to go from short down to my length without any hassles and I end up with this nice easy airy blend. Same thing on the other side. The shorter the stroke, the more solid my shape becomes. The longer the stroke, the softer and the airier it's going to be. So if I have a piece that's not hanging like I want and I want to put more control in it, like this little area here, I'll take a shorter stroke to help force that to curve into the shape that I'm going for. Looking good. Now on my next section here I am going to hold this down because I want a clear separation between the front being airy transitioning into my sides. And there shouldn't be a whole lot of hair here that needs to be cut. There we go.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Same thing on the other side. And I think that that's looking pretty good. We have this nice heavy solid front layer and then it goes into blending in with the sides. We got a nice texture through it and I think we're looking pretty good for the overall basic shape. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Jennifer Lopez Haircut Final Look A little bit of hairspray on you girl. Get you ready for Hollywood! I like it. I think we got the right texture. I think that the shape really lends itself to being able to style it in a lot of different ways and when you have a shape that doesn't have a real solid structure, it enables it to absorb whatever type of styling that you want to put into it. It's very very versatile. And especially if you want to add any kind of extensions or wefts or anything like that into this it will blend in very very easily, much more so than if you had a very very structured shape done with scissors. Please let us know what you'd like to see in the future. Thank you so much for checking out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber and we will see you next time. Thanks for watching. Jennifer Lopez has sported many different hairstyles. From pixie cut styles to half-up half down looks and long voluminous hair, JLo is a fashion icon. Jennifer Lopez hairstyles are always gorgeous, well thought out and captivating. We hope you enjoyed this Jennifer Lopez haircut tutorial.  
Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial

Tutorial

Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial

Let's explore a Brad Pitt hairstyle. But which one? The famous actor has had many hairstyles over the years and has sported distinct styles in movies like Fight Club, Fury, Mr. and Mrs. Smith and Inglorious Bastards. His red carpet looks from his days with Jennifer Aniston and Angelina Jolie have always been of interest to fashion gurus. And his hair is versatile making him a great candidate for a variety of looks. In this tutorial, we dissect the Brad Pitt haircut from Seven, a 90s oldie but goodie. Follow along with the video below and follow along with the transcript.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle in Se7en Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a study of Brad Pitt's short haircut that he had in the movie Se7en. It was one of my favorite looks that he had because it wasn't a real polished look. It was a little more lived in, a little more raw. So we're going to study how to get that raw look but still have it look like it is a complete and well done haircut. So let's get started. So in the movie Se7en Brad Pitt plays this young rookie detective and he's teamed up with this veteran, you know, detective to show him the ropes. So you can kind of see in his character that he's young, he's new to the job, he's new to the gig, he's learning how to do everything. And that's reflected in his style as well. He's not real polished in his clothes. They're like they fit but they're not real expensive and also you can see that especially in his hair because his hair is this young raw kind of cheap rookie detective haircut. It's not real polished. It's not real clean. It's literally the opposite of Miami Vice that was glitz and glam and perfection. And now you're seeing Brad Pitt who's usually impeccably dressed with perfect hair, because the dude has great hair. In this movie, his hair is a little lumpy. It's a little raw. It's a little disheveled. It's not polished. So I'm going to try to repeat that basic shape and keep that rawness to it without it looking like it's a cheap terrible haircut. To get started I'm going to go through and separate the top from the bottom. We're going to take a recession...center of the recession straight back to the quarter part, quarter part's going to go down to the drop crown which is between the occipital bone and the crown. It's that little bump right in the middle. That is basically the parietal ridge that I'm separating the top from the bottom from.   Scissor Over Comb Now that I've got the top separated from the bottom, I'm going to go through and do some scissor over comb. I'm going to use my Jatai Tokyo Scissor. This is a 6-inch scissor with a nice even blade all the way through. It's not a real heavy blade so it doesn't tire out my hand by doing a lot of repetitive motion, but it still has a nice sharp blade and a good clean point to it. So we're going to start here on the side and in the movie I noticed that his hair was tapered closer here in the front and it was a little longer in the back. So that's what we're going to do. I'm going to angle my comb here. I'm going to start real low and just crudely go through scissor over comb. I'm not taking a whole lot of strokes just yet. I just want to go through and get my lengths proper to where I think that they should be. This is still going to be a little tapered. So we're going to go through and feel it out and get everything where I think that should be. And I think that that's probably a pretty good length. I'll probably take that a little shorter right through there and then I will continue to work this back. After I've got to the mastoid I'm going to go to the back of the head, the nape of the head, and I'm going to start here at the bottom. I'm going to leave a little bit more length than I did on the side and taper that up. It's not a real steep taper but it's still tapered a little bit nonetheless. Now once I come to the point where the mastoid is, I was cutting the side going up, I was cutting the back going up but because of the way that the angles are on the parietal ridge now I'm going to come in at an angle like this and work that up and out and through. So I'm working my tapering parallel to my parting. Okay now I'm going to go through and separate in the back. I'm going to take from the crown to the high point of the ear and separate the front from the back. And I'll go through and take a center section and I want to continue the angle of tapering that I've already started from underneath as I get longer towards the crown.   Blending the Sides and Back So I'll take this section right in the back in the middle using my wood-look Feather Styling Razor limited edition, by the way. This gives me enough texture to keep everything soft and allow me to fine-tune it here later on. But it also can go through and cut a nice clean shape. I'm going to pull that out. There's my length from underneath. Go through and continue that angle straight up. I'm not worried about this length being right because I'll cut that with the top. All I'm looking for now is to blend this into the back. I will pivot from the crown. There's my pivot angle. I'll pull this out from the head at 90. There's my line from underneath and my previously cut guide. I'll go through take that length off and make sure that we have a nice little blend through there. Pivot again as I start to work towards the side. Remove the center section. Now I only have my second and third section. Going to pull this straight out from the head. There is my line from underneath. Going to take that out, remove my second section. Now I have my third and my fourth on this side. There's my length from underneath. We're going to go through blend that through. Now let's go through and work on making sure that the sides blend. I'm going to go through and take a parallel section to my previously cut section which was halving the parietal ridge. We have this length here so I'm going to pull this straight out from the head using my razor. There's my length underneath and cut this using that length as my guide from the front all the way to the back.   Follow us on your favorite social media at @JataiFeather   Next section. And I'm gonna keep going through and following this methodology until I get to the center of the head and then I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side. We've got everything blended through with our sides and the back and I think that we don't have to worry about any hair hanging over that looks funky but the top is still too long for the shape.   Blending the Top So what I want to do is go through and cut the top, but I want to cut it as inconsistent as possible without being completely out of shape so what I'm going to try to do is just use my fingers to put in, pick up and then cut anything that hangs out over my fingers off. Lift this up, put my fingers in, try to find that length that I want and then go through using my Feather Styling Razor and just start cutting anything that hangs out over my fingers off. This is going to be very crude and very raw. And I may have to go through and do it a couple of times. But this is how I'm going to start getting that really crude shape on top and I'm not trying to cut everything at one time. This starts to give me my guide length and now as I start to look at that front, that's looking more like the photo. He's looking like a detective more and more. Another way that I can go through and cut this, pull back. There's my length. I'm going to lay my finger against the flat part of the blade and anything that's really long I'll just push into the blade and cut that off. After we got the front, I'm going to go through and take a little more here. Hold this up in my fingers. There's my guide from the front and then we're just going to go through take this off. I would probably use the regular blade as opposed to the R-Type Blade to give myself a little bit more protection. And I'm not jamming this into my hand. I'm just running it across the top of my fingers. So it's starting to crudely cut the shape, but not real cleanly. So take your time and be patient. It's a technique that requires a little bit of patience. So let's work this a little bit more internally and take some more of this weight out in the crown. So I'll pull out, go through, channel cut some of that because I want some weight removal and some separation. Continue to go through and channel some of this out until I feel like I got the weight and the length like I want here in the crown.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   I think that's looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry and see if I need to do any texturizing on the top. I like the length that we got on the front. I think that that's looking you know pretty good through there. I like the length on the sides and the back down through here but we need to take a little bit more out through the ridge here because this shape is a little beveled and rounded off.   Thinning & Removing Length So I'm going to go through and use my Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissor. Now this is a nice clean middle of the road thinning scissor to take out some weight. The more times that I hit it, it will start to remove more length so I'm going to go through and thin this ridge out a little through here and I'm going to thin it a lot but I'm going to thin it on the end so I can take some of that length out and bevel the shape a little bit. So we're going to start low here. Make sure that my straight blade is on the bottom. Start at the bottom. Get the motor running and then go through and work that up and bevel my shape a little bit. The more that I do this, the cleaner that the shape is going to be. Now you don't want to necessarily go through and give a really really crude haircut on your client but you still want to keep that kind of rough and raw texture to it. So there's a fine line that I'm walking here between how much of this shape can I make it crude and how much of it needs to be clean and presentable and even. There we go. We're going to take some of that out through there. I like that better. Take a little bit of clay.   Brad Pitt Hairstyle from Se7en End Result Alright, here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think we got the texture right. I think the lengths are pretty good and it still has that kind of rawness to it that I think he had in the movie and so I'm pretty content with this. I'm pretty happy with that. When you're going to do the razor texturing on the top like I did where you're going across your fingers, make sure you turn the blade away from you as you're going across. If the hair is real thick it doesn't work too well. So just take a mohawk section and pinch it off like the other technique that I showed you if the hair is really really thick. That works just as well and it will give you a very very similar shape. I think you're looking pretty good. You're ready to go catch some criminals, but don't look in the box. Don't look in the box. Check out Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Tutorial

Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Tutorial

Learn how to create a Linda Evangelista short haircut that she made famous in the 1990's. One of the most well-known models at the time among Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, she had a vibrant career and earned celebrity status for her modeling. One of the most important contributions she made in the fashion world is her iconic short haircut. Photographer Peter Lindbergh suggested she get a short haircut and in 1988 she chopped it off in a bold move that shocked the industry. Hairstylist Julien d'Ys created the iconic pixie that soon gained popularity shortly after. Her style was broadcasted all over the news and media outlets, including popular print magazines such as Vogue. Linda Evangelista has sported many long and short hairstyles over the years, but the short crop pixie made the biggest impact in the hair world in the late 80s and early 90s. Today short haircuts are popular among women, but Linda's has maintained a timeless essence which exudes beauty in any era. Watch this tutorial and follow along with the transcript.   Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Tutorial: Welcome back to the Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes Director of Content and today we're going to be doing a study of the Linda Evangelista pixie cut, one of the most iconic haircuts of any fashion era. And we're going to study what makes it great, what makes it work, how to remove enough weight to where it fits in nice and tight but still have some length and that was really her signature. It was short but she still had length. She's had thickness and it was solid, but it wasn't too bulky. It still had softness and movement. So let's see how we can do that. Let's get started.   Sectioning I want to take my first section which is going to separate the top of the hair from the bottom. The bottom we're going to fit in real nice and tight. The top we're going to leave a little longer. We're going to take the center of the recession to the quarter part, quarter part down and then we're going to bevel that out as opposed to just going to a point. I want to bevel this out just to make it flow a little bit better in the back of the head. I'll take an angled section right here at the front. I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is the wood-look option which is my favorite right now. It's a limited edition so get it while you can. I'm going to take this first section. I'm going to pull perpendicular to my parting. So T to the parting. Now most of Linda Evangelista's pixies were longer in the front about the center of her nose that she would kind of texturize and swift one way or the other.   Cutting the Sides So I'm going to pull this forward. I'm going to plant my knuckles and then angle my fingers to get that length right at about the center of her nose and then we're going to go through and cut that back towards the ear. I'll take my next section. This is going to be a parallel section to my first that I just cut. We're going to comb this out of the way. I'm going to take this section. I'm going to pull it forward the same but where this is going to differ is that I'm not pulling it straight forward flat to the head. I'm going to slightly elevate it. So I'm going off the curvature of the head as I work this back. An easy way to determine that is I just lay the comb right at the parting and it will show me what elevation I take as I go towards the back. That's going to give me a curved line going from the front to the back. Again pull this out, find my line. There's my guide. Try to take the same broad razor stroke that I was taking before. Cut that down and through. The next section parallel all the way down into the nape. Now the number of sections that you're going to take is going to be determined by how big the person's head is. The bigger the head, the more sections you're going to take. The smaller the head, the fewer sections you'll take. Pick up my previously cut guide. Pull out the first. Find the right elevation. Find the right angle. Cut that back towards the ear. Once I get to the ear I'm no longer going to work that all the way in. I'm going to start taking this section parallel to the head, parallel to my parting. So the parting up here was at an angle. Once it hits the ear, now it becomes parallel to the section. Continue my next section. Pull this forward. There's my angle. I got the right elevation. Lift that up and through once I come into the nape parallel to my parting. So I start to build up weight here on top of the ear and then it starts to become much more even in its weight distribution as I get down to the nape. And I will continue this until I get all the way just past center. Next section, since I don't have any hair above where the ear is this is all going to be parallel, parallel to the parting and also following my previously cut guide. There's my length. Nice. Very nice. It's taking me back. I've got George Michael playing in my head. Now we're going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. To make sure that I keep my moisture content the same on both sides. I'm going to be using Jatai Blade Glide. This is going to give me the ability to keep my moisture consistent on both sides. It compacts the cuticle and makes it a lot easier to cut with the razor. I'm just going to go through and take a parallel section to my previous guide which is going to be like that. So now from here I know that I'm going about to the bridge of the nose so I'll pull this out. I'll rock it to where I have about that elevation into it. There's my guide from underneath. Go through. Take that length off. Same thing as I work from the front to the back. Get my elevation right, a nice broad razor stroke following my guide from underneath as I work all the way into the back of the head. Now I'm going to take a parallel section about the same thickness from front all the way to the back. If I need to add a little moisture I'll hit it with a little Blade Glide. Perfect.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   There's my guide. Nice broad razor stroke so I don't build up weight but I do build up length. There's the next nice broad stroke. If I need to have them tilt their head down there's my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Next section and I'm going to continue with this method until I get slightly over the center top of the head. Find the right elevation. There's my guide from underneath until I work all the way into the nape. That looks pretty good. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing to the other side. Uh I think we've got a little too much length in the front so I'm going to take a little bit off right in the middle so that'll be easy. Just take a parallel section there. Yeah we got the sides fine. It's just right in the middle I'm not a fan of so we're going to go through, take that and bevel that shape from the sides into and around the front. There we go.   Cutting the Top Now to control this kind of point on top it's very easy. It's going to be very simple. I'm going to take a center mohawk section. So I've got my center section here on top. What I want to do is go through and remove this corner that I have on top by pulling it left and right, front and back. The way I'm going to do that is I'm going to hold this and cut just like this. I'm going to flick some of this length off by using my thumb against the back of the spine of the razor. I'm not laying it on the actual blade. I'm laying it on the back of the razor putting the hair and then pulling the blade out that will take any kind of length that hangs off over where I push that end of the blade off. Very little, if anything, right through here. Yeah, very little. If I feel like the hair is too thick, then the way I'm going to remove some weight is not by channel cutting because I don't want to introduce any separation and any sort of movement. I want to keep this a very neutral shape. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to pull out a section very easy and then just lay the blade directly flat across the entire section and fillet some of that weight out of it just like I'm filleting a fish, filleting some sushi. Take a little bit of that weight out and that will remove the weight without changing the shape or putting channel separation into it. We're going to continue this on the top all over and just take a little bit of that weight out just gently lay the blade against the hair and then start to rock the blade until it starts to cut. Once it starts cutting, I'll leave it at that angle. Boom very quick, very easy, very very light. I don't want to get heavy with this razor especially on blonde hair because it will flat cut it off quick because blonde hair tends to be a little delicate, so I need to respect that.   Give us a thumbs up, click the notification bell and subscribe for future Jatai Academy content.   I like this. I think we got the basic shape into it so now let's go through and blow it dry and see what our end results are.   Final Linda Evangelista Short Haircut Pixie Look So here's our end result of the Linda Evangelista haircut and I think we got the texture right which I think is the hardest thing when you're working on mannequin hair or hair that's been bleached like our inspiration picture where you got to get it soft enough thinned out enough without getting wispy and I think by laying our razor flat against the section, that really generates that type of texture and that type of shape. We got a solid shape. We got a little bit of fullness all the way around. Very very iconic of when she was doing the George Michael video with when she had her short pixie kind of hair. I like it a lot. I think that this works really really well. So couple of things to remember: pull your sections forward, angle your fingers so you leave more weight right here around the front and then you're tapering it into the back. Also, gently fillet with the razor across each section to remove as much weight as required. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. If you have a question, leave it below. We'll try to get back to you as soon as possible and again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Betty Page Bangs Tutorial

Tutorial

Betty Page Bangs Tutorial

What are Betty Page bangs? Correctly spelled as Bettie, was a famous model in the 1950s known for her pin up looks. Not only was she iconic for her pin up looks, but she had iconic bangs. These heavy blunt bangs had a slight curl at the ends and were wider than normal. Known as the Bettie Page bangs, her vintage look has stood the test of time. Russell shares his knowledge on how to create these bangs with precision using Jatai Kyoto Scissors. Watch this Betty Page bangs tutorial and follow along with the transcript. Betty Page Bangs: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a deep dive on how to cut some Bettie bangs. Now the Bettie Page bang is probably the most difficult bangs that you can cut because there's a lot of things that can go wrong and if you got cowlicks and dips and flips and waves and hair that's too thick. So there's a lot of stuff that can happen. So I'm going to show you all the things that can go wrong and how to deal with each of them. So let's get started. So when I'm going to start cutting some bangs I have to be mindful of what type of bang that I'm doing, how long it's going to be and what the end results going to be.   Sectioning the Betty Page Bangs So Bettie Page bangs are always very very blunt very heavy and curved up on the edges and it's very thick. And it's a little bit broader than a standard bang. A standard you know fringe is going to be from the front hairline, the first bump to the center of the recession which is going to be about that much. Hers is much thicker and it goes a little bit further back so on her for this type of bang I'm going to go first bump to the second bump to the bottom of the recession which is going to look something about like that. So I'll pin this hair out of the way. I can always add more later, but I can't take it out after I've already cut it. So I'll look at this and see okay does that look like that's going to be thick enough and I think so. So I'll do the same thing on the other side, the bottom of the recession right there to that point, pin that hair out of the way. Now we have the entirety of the bangs that we're going to cut in our Bettie Page shape.   Cutting Wet or Dry? The next thing I have to pay attention to is if I'm going to cut it wet or if I'm going to cut it dry. If I cut it wet then the hair has a tendency to spring and I'll get more tension on it than I will if the hair is dry because the hair stretches a little bit more when it's wet. So on hers when I want to keep that very blunt I'm going to go ahead and blow it dry. And when I blow it dry, I want to be mindful of how much I'm stretching it, how much I'm pulling it. So if they naturally have a really strong cowlick that's sticking straight up there's no way that they're ever going to be able to style their hair. So I want to be conscientious of their styling ability and how much they can style their hair. So I'll go through with my Du-Boa Brush and just kind of gently encourage everything to go flat against the head when I blow it dry and I don't want to get so powerful with it that I get everything perfectly smooth and don't allow any of the natural cowlicks or hair movement get in the way. I want that to be in the way a little bit so that when I cut it it fits in better with the natural growth patterns of the hair. Some hair cannot do Bettie Page bangs because they have a strong cowlick and you can't get past it.   Creating the Zero Tension Next thing, I'm gonna go through, I'll take a center section right between the eyebrows. This is going to be the first section that I cut. If I'm nervous I can go through take this section in half and start small and work my way up. That's okay. You don't have to do the whole section in one shot. So I'm going to start with my Jatai Kyoto Scissor. Now this is a little bit heavy. It's got a little bit more weight to the blade so that when I cut it, it gives me a more precise solid cut so I can cut through dry hair and thicker sections much easier. The next thing I want to pay attention to is when I comb it, I comb everything straight down, flip my comb with zero tension and then hold it. Now if I hold it in my fingers I'm going to cut the top layer slightly shorter than the underneath layer so it's going to pop up with a little bit of graduation. We can fix that later. I'll go through, cut this straight across. Now you see how that started to spring up already. So that's another thing I have to pay attention to is when I'm combing my section I don't want to grab the section with my fingers and stretch for dear life because see how flat that gets the hair? Next to it, it's already popping up. So when I let this go, boom it's going to spring up and when it springs up I no longer have a solid blunt line. So I want zero tension when I comb this down. I comb it down right into my finger and then lay my finger on top of it where I want to cut. Find your guide underneath, go through, cut that. Now another thing that I want to pay attention to, I'm leaving this long. I'm going to cut this shorter. I'm just going through and showing you the motions.   Cut on the Backstroke Another thing I want you to pay attention to is the scissor push. When I'm working with a thick section of hair and I put the blade in you notice how the hair instantly starts to get pushed out of the blade and that happens even on very very sharp scissors because these are very sharp. So I end up with a wavy line. So what I have to do is I have to cut. As the scissor starts to close, I pull back on my scissor, I cut on the back stroke. It looks like I'm going and cutting on the end stroke when in reality I'm cutting on the backstroke. Cutting on the backstroke will give you a much cleaner more solid line. My preferred way of cutting really really solid bangs, lift up with my scissor, comb down, cut on the backstroke straight across. Then I can place my comb right there on the head to hold it and go through and clean up my line. Now we're starting to get a nice blunt solid line without any kind of graduation and that's the secret to her bangs is it has to be very very blunt. I think a little shorter. A little bit shorter. And that's another thing I want to pay attention and acknowledge is that bangs can get very very short very very quickly. So it's better for me if I leave it a little longer initially and then go through and whittle it down because there's going to be sometimes the hair springs up. There's going to be sometimes the hair shifts. So I want to give myself a little bit of a safety net, sorry, as I start to whittle that down. Now I'm looking at that knowing that as I go to the sides this is going to go up. So I'm really just looking at that little piece right in the middle and I think that that's probably pretty good. Now we're going to take the next sections. We're going to comb that straight down. I'm going to go through, lift this up, put my comb in at the angle that I want and then roll the comb down and cut from the short to the long. Then I can go back clean this up.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   And I think we're beginning to start to see our shape. Now we can certainly exaggerate this a little more depending upon the hair that you have on your model, depending upon how extreme that she wants to go you can go very very short and I think that we need a little shorter on the edges here. So I'll go back with no tension. The only tension I get is what my comb is holding there and then I'm going to angle the comb as I bring this straight down. Take a little bit more off on the right side. Clean that up. Oh! I think that's looking better. Now there is a method of going through and cleaning this up where I will point cut in because as I go in with my blade blunt and I'm taking a pretty broad cut, pretty broad stroke of cut, the hair will tend to push that we talked about just a minute ago. If I go through and just do little nibbles, there's exponentially less push so I can fine-tune that shape a little bit more and be a little more precise without having to deal with scissor push.   Matching the Other Side Alright, so we've got our short piece and our short piece. So I'm gonna go through and try to guess at what angle that this is going to be on this side to match the other side and cut that and hope I don't cut too short. Oh that's actually not bad. Now don't look at my big gash right here but this part where I'm cutting to is actually pretty even. So now we're going to go through clean this line up. I find cutting short to long I can be more precise than cutting long to short and also trying not to take one big strong broad stroke of the scissor but taking smaller strokes or even going through and point cutting that will make that easier to deal with the scissor push. That's not bad. I'm gonna cut this a little bit through here. There we go.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Betty Page Bangs Recap and Final Look So here's our end result and let's cover a few key pointers when we're trying to cut really blunt and around the bangs on an angle. So first thing, no tension. The more tension that you introduce the more it's going to spring and the more it's going to shift. Secondly is combing it clean from the roots all the way to the ends using the comb to plant and hold. Zero tension. Cut on the backstroke. So as the scissor starts to cut it's going to push hair. So cut on the back stroke or go through point cut and that way you'll have less scissor push. When you're combing it down for this angle as it starts to angle up on the sides, I'm still combing it down in natural fall just angling my fingers or angling the comb and then that's going to introduce the angle that I start to bevel up on the edges. So also, last thing, be patient. It takes a long time. So be comfortable. Be patient. Have them close their eyes. You don't want them looking at you, you know, as you're trying to cut their bangs. It's kind of unnerving, but this is a very iconic style for a reason and a lot of people don't wear it because it's very difficult to do. So if you practice and if you practice on a doll head and you get the doll head right, any human should be right as long as they don't have some big cowlick in the front. So check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hairstylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future. If you have any questions, leave them below and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching. Vintage pin up hairstyles have always had a certain unique look. Thanks to Bettie Page hair and her rockabilly bangs, pin up bangs hairstyles have carved a solid niche in fashion, hair and entertainment. An internet search will likely reference Bettie Page pinup bangs and her iconic style. If you liked learning how to cut pin up bangs, let us know in the comments what you thought about the tutorial.   Tutorial
Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial

The men's French crop cut hairstyle is known for its short sides and cropped textured top with a short fringe. The sides can have a high or low fade or taper and the top works well with thick hair and even curly hair. A blunt fringe or textured fringe give a distinct look. The French crop haircut is a great style to learn how to cut. Watch the crop hairstyle tutorial below and follow along with the transcript.   Men's French Crop Cut Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a practice on the French crop. The French crop taper fade is very very popular. It's very versatile. You can use it on a lot of different textures and a lot of different types but there are some fundamental skills that you really need to hone in and practice and get good at in order to deliver a very very good French crop. So let's study that. Let's get started. To get started what we've done is we've taken the center of the recession straight back to the quarter part down and curved that around into the back so that we have half of the parietal ridge sitting up top, half of it sitting on the bottom.   Tapering and Fading with a Clipper So I'm going to start and just remove some hair. So I just want to get most of this hair out of the way before I start worrying about my taper. So I'm gonna use a number three guard on my clipper and then just go straight up and take all of this hair off. Now as I start to go, sometimes this hair gets pushed up and out of the way. So if I just grab it and pull it into the teeth it makes it easier for me to get all this off. Now whenever I'm doing some short hair like this I don't want to go through and necessarily cut everything in my fingers first and then go through and cut it shorter with scissor over comb or clipper over comb or whatever that may be. Sometimes I just need to remove some hair so I can start whittling my shape in. So now that I've got my overall length cut off and I've established my length that I'm cutting to here at the top, I can go through and approach my taper in one of two different ways. I can skin the bottom up to where I want the skin part to be and then fade from short into long or I can work from long to short. It's really a personal preference on what style works best for you. I find personally if I'm doing something really high, like a French crop high fade, like I'm skinning it up really high, then I'd prefer to skin it first and then work out my line. If I'm keeping the taper lower and the skin fade very low, then I'll go from long to short. So let's go from long to short for a French crop low fade. So I had a three. Now I'm going to go down to a number two and I'll go up about a finger length away and as I start to run up the head I want to rock the clipper away from the head. That's going to allow me to cut this hair underneath short and then as I rock it out it allows me to blend into that longer length. So I finished with my number two. I got everything done like I want. I can look at it from a profile and see that it tapers quite nicely. Now I'm going to go down to a 1-1/2. And on the one and a half I'm going to do the same methodology that I was doing before where I'm not going up as high as the last one and as I get closer to where I want it to start to fade, I start rocking the clipper away from the head. So it's this type of arching motion that's coming from your wrist. I finished my one and a half so you notice that the steps went from three to two to one and a half. Now I'm going to a one. So as I get shorter the steps become smaller because you notice the difference much more as the hair gets shorter and you see more skin sticking out. Now we got a number one. Going to do the same thing. Start low where I stopped before. Run up to that point. Arc the clipper to start working on my blend. Now we're to our 1/2 so I run a 1/2 right at where I want my shortest bit. And then I open the blade a little bit and I start using my arcing motion of my wrist to help the clipper go through and blend that through as best I can. Now I'll take the clipper itself with no guard and just here on the very bottom take all of that little residual hair off. That's not looking too bad.   Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   So I've gone through and finished my tapering. Now I've gone and washed the hair because the clipper cuts better on dry hair and I can see everything a little bit better on dry whereas the scissors and razor cut better on wet hair.   Cutting the Top Back with Scissors So I've gone and shampooed. Now I've sectioned off from the high point of the head over to the top of the ear and I have the whole back of the head. I want to make sure that this blends well with the underneath without them getting a flat head. So I'll start right in the middle and I will take a parallel section. Now I'm going to separate this according to where the crown is. I'm going to hold this hair at this elevation because I want to make sure I continue this angle of graduation so it prevents me from getting a flat head. So I'll hold that straight out, plant my fingers, there's my guide I'm cutting from. Now I'm going to pull that out and continue that angle that I had there. Take that a little shorter through there by building up a little bit more length in the crown when the hair falls. It's going to continue this natural fall of head shape. So now from here after I've got that length going up from there, I'll use that as my length and follow the head shape from there forward. Oops! Once we got that through now that should be a nice curved shape blending right into my longest part of my taper underneath. I will go through, I will pivot the section from the center, get this other hair out of the way and continue to work that around into the sides. Now I'm using my Jatai Tokyo Scissor this is a 6 inch scissor. It's got a nice little point on it and it gives me enough scissor length that I can really work in larger thicker sections of hair. And it's also good if I need to do some scissor over comb type of blending. Continue up the head working to the center top of the head. One more pivot. Pin this hair out of the way. Take my previous section, hold that out. There's my line from underneath. Follow my tapering angle and then start to head shape the rest of the cut so I continue this nice smooth bevel. I would rather have too much hair through here than not enough because I can always take it down. If I end up with not enough hair, then I end up with a flat head. Fine-tune this a little bit with some scissor over comb, just trying to get a rough shape into it. Get my lengths even. Get everything blended in the back. There we go. Now I'll go through, separate my center section again. This was the original section that I cut and I'm going to go through do the same thing on the other side.   Cutting the Top with Scissors After I finish the back I'm going to go through and take a center section right down the top of the middle and here I know that my bangs are already here. I can go shorter than that or longer. I'm going to leave that about that length so I'm going to go through and cut from this length to this length, going from back to front. Now I like to cut from the shortest part to the longer part. So I'm going to turn to the other side, pick this straight up. There's my short part and cut from longer. I'm sorry from shorter to longer. Holding this straight up into the center of the section straight up towards the ceiling to this length right in the front, comb that forward. Check the lengths out. Think that's okay cuz I can cut this a little bit more in the front. All right, so once we've got that we're going to go through and take a parallel section. I have my center section and my first section that I'm adding to. I will comb those two into the center of both of those sections, cut that going from back to front, from shorter to longer. Get that done. Okay very good. Now I will remove my first section, my first guide that I cut. I'm going to go through and remove that. I no longer need it. I have a new guide now. I'll take my next section and do exactly the same thing, work from short in the back to long in the front.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   There we go. I will remove my second section. So now I have the third section and the last section on this side. I'll comb that straight up. There's my guide from the back. There we go. Cut that shorter to longer than the front. Now I'll go back, find my very first section that I took right here into the center, pin this other hair out of the way so I don't get confused. I will add my next section on the opposite side and go through and do exactly the same thing that I did on the right side. Now I'll go through and do that on the left using my center guide to walk my guide all the way to their left side.   Blending and Sculpting So to work on my blend, I'm going to go through and use my Feather Styling Razor. This is a wood grain so it's a wood look finish and I really like it. I think it looks very cool. You can also use all three different types of blades on it: the Texturizing, the Standard or the R-Type. I am using the R-Type Blade so I get a little bit more blade exposed so I can cut a little cleaner. So from here we're going to hold this straight out. There's my line in the back and I'll just start razoring from short to long in the front just like I was doing on the top. I want to do this little bit right here on the sides to make sure everything blends through. There pull my next section. I will probably not have a whole lot of hair reach and I don't so we'll take a little bit of that off right through there. That's looking pretty good. A little sculpture cutting right through there to make sure I take some of the weight out and have a nice blend. When I do this it's a very gentle laying of the razor on the surface of the hair to remove some weight from it, remove some solidity and I think that that's looking like a pretty good blend through there. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side from here. Okay that's looking pretty good. I want to go through and just clean this line up here in the front, not a lot but just clean that up a little bit. Take a long stroke to take out weight as I cut my length right there, a little bit right through there. Here we're not taking off any length. I'm just going to add a little bit of texture to soften that up and we need a little bit more over here. All right, I'm thinking this shape is looking pretty good. Now let's go through and blow it dry see what we got.   Final Men's French Crop Cut Haircut Here's our finished look. I think we got a really nice kind of taper. One thing I will say is when you're doing a taper, especially when you're practicing on a mannequin head you're not going to like it while you're doing it. You're going to freak out, but wait till you wash it and wait till you get it dry before you can really judge it completely. It takes a little time to dial it in and to get your hand motions right, but we got a nice little taper. We got it blended through the crown really properly so it has a nice head shape to it. It's not the anti-head shape where it's flat and collapsed in the back. You got a nice little solid top and we've got this lad kind of look in the front where it's straight across but still has a little bit of texture. And I think that this really surmises the French crop in that it's solid, soft and short on the sides with a little bit of texture in the front. So add this to your repertoire practice and it's just skills that you need to have in your arsenal and this is really a straightforward haircut that's very versatile that you can use on a lot of different hair types and a lot of different hair textures and thicknesses. So there we go. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. If you're looking for men's haircut ideas, the French crop is good one. Crop fade haircuts are popular among men all over the world. Learning how to do a mens crop haircut requires precision and proper technique since it shows all flaws. Using various tools to achieve seamless crop cut hairstyles, you can create a masterpiece of your own! Tutorial
Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Tutorial

The short faded mohawk hairstyle is a popular men's cut. There are many versions of this style. You can have shaved sides for more of a skin fade or a more tapered look. You can create a mohawk burst fade for a more distinct look. You can make a high fade or low fade mohawk as well. As you can see, the variations are limitless! Mohawk fade haircuts are more edgy because there are greater differences in the length of the hair. Mohawk taper haircuts are more conservation because the sides are a bit longer and not as close to the skin. The hair length on the sides vs. the top can make it more conservative or more edgy. Watch this short faded mohawk haircut tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.   Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study on one of my faves: the mohawk taper. Now, the mohawk taper can be very, very subtle and conservative, or it can be very edgy and very extreme depending on the amount of texture, the length and where you're going to place it. We're going to show you how to taper it properly, how to fit it to the head, and how to get the right amount of texture in your haircut. So let's get started. All right, so to get started I want to cut my short part first. So I'm going to take from the center of the recession back to the quarter part, and I'm going to curve that around until I get down to the nape. Now, I'm not going to go all the way to the tendon. I'm going to go a little bit further in to exaggerate the fact that my mohawk is going to be separated all the way from the sides into the back.   Tapering the Sides with Scissor Over Comb So I'm going to start with my Jatai Tokyo Scissors. This is a 6-inch scissor, and I like using a longer blade when I'm doing scissor over comb because I feel like it allows me to work with a much bigger section. And I want something that has a nice point to it so I can go through and feel like I can get a lot more detailing than if I had a really small, really rounded-tip scissor. We're going to start here on the side. I just want to go through and remove some hair, starting to taper from really short up to a little bit longer as I go up. So I'm going to go through and just, real crudely go through and cut shorter and get longer as I go toward the top of my sections. And I'm not worried about really fine-tuning everything in. I just want to get a crude shape going from short at the hairline to a little longer towards the parting. Now once I get most of that hair out of the way, I want to start fine-tuning this shape. Now to fine-tune it, we're going to put the comb in, and then I'll make a cut. I'll move the comb up a little bit more, make another cut. Up a little bit more, make another cut. So it's like - bam, bam, bam. Guess what happens next? Bam. Yes. Bam. And I just continue that as I work all the way from the bottom up to the top. The more times that I hit this section, the closer that my scissor strokes are, the smoother that my scissor over comb is going to be. So just start low - low expectation as you go up to the top and continue to fine-tune that as I get to the top of the section. And this is just to get rid of some hair and start my tapered shape in. I don't want it really long here at the top. I want to keep that closer to the head. Alright, so now that I've got all of my scissor over comb down and got my basic taper in on both sides - I got it a little longer at the top, tapered in over the ears, basically graduated - I'm going to go through and take my clippers.   Creating the Fade on the Sides The clippers, I'm going to use an attachment. I'm going to start with a 1, and I'm going to close everything down. So you can adjust open or closed. Open just means that the cutting blade is a little bit further away from the teeth, so it gives me a little softer cut and is going to be a little bit longer. Closed is going to be up closer to the cut of the teeth, so it's going to cut a little bit cleaner and be a little bit shorter. So I'll just lay it against the head, go up against the head. Once I get to where the head starts to curve, then I'll bring the clipper away from the head. So it's this sort of rocking motion to get it close over the ear, and then as I come up, I move the clipper away from the head so that it allows it to get longer. Here in the back, I'll start low, work around the ear. Since the ear doesn't really move, it's a little bit more difficult. Basically, work that angle in a little bit tighter over the ears. Now once I've got this line here done and I got everything kind of clean like I want - it's as close as I can get - then I'll open up the blade a little bit. That gives me a little bit more softness so it's easier for me to blend this a little bit higher. And now I'm just going to use the straight blade, and I have to finesse this a little shorter over the ear and do the same sort of C-shaping method that I was using to get a soft blend. Open it up real tight. Skin just over the ear. Angle this part of the blade away from the head; the bottom part of the blade is all the way touching the head. And once I get this area here real short, I'll start to open the blade and then softly blend that line out through there. Real gently open up a little bit more and that just allows me to taper that in and fine-tune that line out from the head. After I get this done on one side, I'll go through and do the same thing on the other side.   Follow us on your favorite social media: @jataifeather   Blending the Sides Back with my scissors, I'm going to go through and, whatever this parting was, I'm going to take a parallel section to that. I'm going to go through and pull this straight out horizontally, leaving it a little longer right here in the front. And then we're going to go through and point cut all of this length off. I don't want to go through and completely disconnect this. While this is kind of a tapered mohawk, I want this to be a little more on the conservative side. So we're not going to go through and disconnect and leave a lot of this hanging over. There's my parting line. We're going to go through and point cut everything off as we work this all the way down. It doesn't have to blend 100% with the previously cut hair, but I want it to be pretty close. As I get to the bottom, I may need a little more length right through there, which I think is a good thing. So we've got that cut off and I think that that length is looking pretty good. So now we're going to continue to walk my guide and pull everything over to this side. There's my guide from underneath, following my previously cut guide. Now I'm not pulling it down to my short section. I want to continue to pull this straight out at whatever the head shape elevation is. Last section, right at the nose. I'm continuing to point cut this, even though I'm going to go through and cut the top a little bit shorter to get my point taken out. But I want to make sure I have some texture to it. I don't want this being cut really, really bluntly and then having to go back and re-cut everything to have some texture in it. The more blunt the line is that I put into it, the harder it's going to be to start to develop some texture into it. Now that I've got my sides basically etched in – I will go fine-tune that in a minute - but I want to go through and cut the length on the top.   Cutting the Length on the Top And what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a parting. It's going to be a little further back so that I can pull this hair from the front into the top of that parting, right where the head starts to curve so that can leave a little more length here in the front. There's my parting. I'll lay my finger, I'm going to pull everything back into that, and then go through and point cut that to square it off and to cut the little point off that I went through and cut in it by pulling everything to the left side and to the right side. Take my next section - pull it back into that parting, follow the front guide, squaring everything off a little bit. Next parting - plant the finger, same thing. Now once I get to the crown, I'm gonna go through and do the same thing, but in the opposite motion. So here I'm pulling everything back to here. So what I'm gonna do now, is so I can develop and leave a little length in the nape, I'll do the same thing. Find where the occipital bone is and pull the hair up to that point. Square that off. Take my next parting, pull everything up into that. Square it off. Last section - back into the crown. I see my previous guide from the front and I'll match those two into the middle.   Adding Internal Texture So now I want to add some internal texture. I feel like the hair is too thick. So I'm going to take my Tokyo Thinning Scissors from Jatai. This is going to go through – and it's seamless but it will remove quite a bit of hair. So the more times I hit it, the more hair that I'll remove. I want to methodically go through and thin it on the first pass just to make sure I have an even amount of texture that going through the whole thing. So I'm going to start here in the bottom - hit that a few times in the middle and then work out toward the ends. So I lift it up right in the center of the section and take some of that weight out. Now I'll go through and do the other side - center of the length, and then a little on the ends to taper my texture and to taper my thinning so I can remove the weight internally and then soften the edges up. So I'll start here in the front, half way. Half way in the middle. And then as I get closer to the edges to smooth that texturizing out. Now I'll do one right down the center now. Oh come here. Now I want to go through and take a little bit of this edge off right through there and I'm going to do that with my texturizing scissors and just go through and trace that hair that's hanging over that I don't think blends very well and just soften that up.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe, and hit the notification bell to get notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The Final Short Faded Mohawk Haircut Look Here's our end result. I think we're looking pretty good. I think this looks, you know, cool enough without being too over the top. I think it gives it a little modernity without being so extreme and in your face. We've still got this real ultra-clean edge over the ear which - you know once you've had short hair it's hard to let it grow out. So this keeps it feeling clean but you also start to have a little more length in the back, you got a little bit more through here and the back of the head. You got some texture to it. This looks really, really good. It's really modern. And you know I'm glad my clients have been asking for this kind of haircut and demanding it and forcing me to practice at it. Check out the Jatai Academy - there's all kinds of fantastic information there that will make you a better stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time.   Final Thoughts on the Short Faded Mohawk The short mohawk fade consists of short hair on the sides gradually leading to longer hair down the middle for a short mohawk. This haircut can be done on straight hair as well as curly hair. The curly mohawk gives the mohawk strip a lot of texture and fullness. Hair type can make a big difference in the overall look of this style. What you want is a lot of texture in the mohawk portion if possible. For styling, use a pomade, gel or mousse. For a stronger hold, use a pomade. For volume and body, use a mousse.
Modern Chic Lily Collins Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Modern Chic Lily Collins Hair Tutorial

In this tutorial we explore Lily Collins hair when it was short, similar to how hairstylist Gregory Russell Cut her hair for the Calvin Klein campaign. While we are more familiar with the Emily in Paris stars' long hair with curtain bangs, her short blunt bob is a testament to her more mature and sophisticated side. We demonstrate Lily Collins' beauty and style with this red carpet timeless haircut. Follow along with the video tutorial and transcript below.   Lily Collins Hair Tutorial: Welcome back to Jatai Academy. I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content. Today we're going to be doing a one-length bob. But we're not going to do an old-fashioned grandma one length bob. We're going to do something young and cool. We're going to use celebrity Lily Collins as our inspiration. She has this cool one length bob that still maintains the essence of the shape but because it's done with the razor it keeps it modern and fresh and softer and a little bit easier to live with. So let's get started. Alright. So we're going to start by taking a center part or a natural part. Hers is slightly off center, but it's pretty much very very close down the middle. We're going to go to the occipital bone to the mastoid and then I'm going to split that flat section in half so that I have enough hair that I can start to develop my shape but not so much that it starts to clog up my razor.   The Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor I'm going to use my Limited Edition Wood-Look Feather Styling Razor. Now this is in celebration of Jatai's 75th Anniversary and there's only a limited number of these being made. While the handle is not wood, every handle is going to be individual because the wood grains are going to be different, the color variations are going to change from handle to handle. And so once they're gone they're gone. They're not going to make it again and you can buy this individually with just one blade or you can buy it in a kit with a pack of blades and the other accessories that go along with it. And also don't use alcohol-based disinfectants because it can affect the wood look finish.   Creating a Solid Blunt Shape Now we're going to go through and start with our razor bob and the thing that I want to pay attention to that makes this bob modern that Lily's wearing is that the texture is just in the tips. There's not a whole lot of texture that's going to modify the shape and make it piecey. So we want to keep this as solid as possible. So I'm going to hold everything, comb clean straight down. I'm going to find where I want my length at and then I'll put the razor in and I will very gently move this up and down just about a sixteenth of an inch so I can still keep that a very solid blunt shape. We're going to take our next section. Whatever my line is that I parted is going to be the line that I cut in it because I want this to be a little longer in the front. Cutting that down and through. Following my parting on the opposite side, there's my line. We're going to go through. Gently cut that off. Now you want a sharp blade. If you don't have a sharp blade you're going to start trying to saw the hair off. And the more that you're trying to saw the hair off, the more texture that you're going to put in it. Remember I want to keep as little texture in this razor bob as possible and that's what keeps it looking really modern and very very chic. There's my line underneath. I'll lay the razor right on top of it and just about a 16th of an inch razor stroke and cut that straight across. That way I concentrate the texturizing just in the very tips. If I'm working on a model that has very very thick hair and I still want to go through and do this shape, I may run into a situation where I start to build up too much weight and then it starts to look broom-like. So if that happens, then what I'll do is every other section I'll take a broader stroke to remove more weight. But then on every other section I will go through and cut very very blunt like this as much and as blunt as possible to make sure I have that solid line. Now I'll go through. Check this out. We're shorter in the middle, a little bit longer towards the front. So once we got our baseline in, we're going to continue on following the same pattern. Now as my first section was the occipital mastoid, now I'm going to go two flat sections where the head is flat, where the head is flat, right to the top of the ear and that should give me exactly the same angle (the same line) that I was doing underneath. So this line should match that line and then I will take this and split it in half and there's my next section. Pin that out of the way.   Moving Up the Head Now as I start to move up the head, if I feel that the hair is starting to lack a little moisture, I'm going to use my Jatai Blade Glide just to give me a consistency with the dampness. Also, it's going to constrict the cuticle and make my razor cut easier and cleaner. We're going to move on to the next section. I want to maintain zero elevation with my fingers being the only graduation that I get. The only elevation is from this middle finger, but everything else wants to be as flat to the head as possible and I want to keep my razor at a 45 ° angle. I'm not laying it perpendicular to the hair. I want to keep a 45 ° angle as I'm cutting. So I'll put the blade in, angle it at 45 right through there on top of my previously cut guide and cut that down and through. Keep everything T to my parting. There's my line. Cut that through. Check and see how the length is. I think that length is going to be just fine. Continue that through. Now by me laying the blade flat against the hair and cutting everything one length I'm not introducing any kind of movement to this cut or this shape at all. Everything is going to be solid and blunt. I'm trying to apply as much precision to this as I possibly can even though I'm using a soft cut tool where it's not giving me a precision cut like a scissor would. I still want to use the technique and the methodology to make this as precise as possible. So when I'm combing I'm working on flat sections of head. I'm combing from the root clean all the way down and through creating just enough tension to hold the section tight but not so much that I'm stretching it. Laying the razor against that parting right there, cutting that straight across. There's my line. Cut that down and through. Next section, keep everything combed as clean from the parting all the way through to my fingers as possible cutting that straight across. I think with it being a little longer in the front, we have shunned that shape for so long that now when we see it being a little longer in the front it looks fresh again. Follow us on your favorite social media @jataifeather   Now when I come over the ear, since I have to maintain tension on the hair, I'm just going to comb everything into my hand using the comb as the maximum amount of tension that I'll use. I'll plant my fingers. There's my guide from the back and then continue that down and through. I can't go through and do any sort of little tricks as far as making sure I don't cut a hole in it over the ear other than using the least amount of tension as possible. And we have a nice little line that's building up a little length there in the front. And we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Taking my time and making sure everything is combed as clean as possible all the way down. Cut that through. There's my line. Cut that through. Perfect. Looking good. Alright. Let's check our lengths out. I think we're looking pretty good through there. So we've got our basic shape in. Now remember, if the hair was overly thick I could razor in between sections to remove that kind of broom effect that I may get. Let's blow it dry, take a look and see what we got.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   The End Result of this Lily Collins Hair Tutorial So here's our end result and I think we're looking pretty good. I mean this is more of a less uptight kind of bob you know and that's what makes it modern is that we still have this solid bob shape, but it's got that little pieciness on the ends that make it look like it's grown out a little bit and keeps it from looking really stuffy and too perfect. And I think that because it has that kind of softness and that kind of tattered edge to it it gives it something really interesting to look at and it catches your eye more than just a real blunt cut bob. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic information on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and once again thank you so much for watching. We'll see you next time. Lily Collins hair bob is classic and sophisticated. The timeless look defies hair trends and is perfect for any lifestyle. No matter the season, the one length bob will never lose popularity. Tutorial

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