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Tutorial

Men's 1950s Ducktail Haircut Tutorial

Tutorial

Men's 1950s Ducktail Haircut Tutorial

The ducktail haircut was a popular vintage 1950s hairstyle where the hair on the back of the head was shaped like a duck's tail. In this tutorial, it's not about any special ducktail comb or combing technique, but rather a step by step guide how to create this hairstyle with scissors. This men's coiffed hair has continued to remained an iconic look from the 50s. Watch this ducktail hairstyle tutorial video and follow along with the transcript in this article.   Ducktail Haircut Tutorial:   Welcome back to Jatai Academy! I'm Russell Mayes, Director of Content for Jatai and today we're going to be doing a throwback to the 50s with the ducktail haircut.   Cutting the Sides So we're going to start with a straight back section from the center of the recession that splits off the top of the head from the bottom of the head and we're going to use our Osaka Scissor because I will tend to take a larger section, so a little fatter blade and a sharper blade will make it easier to cut. I'm going to take an angled section that's going to follow the front hairline and cut that down at whatever my desired length is. I want a little bit of length so that the hair flows back. This haircut tends to look better with the hair that has a little bit of movement to it so. I'm walking my guide which means each section I take I'm combing into the previous section and cutting that as my guide. So I cut the first section. I comb section one and two together to make section two. I comb section two and three together to make section three. I comb section three and four together and so on until I reach the mastoid which is that bone right behind the ear. Now here you'll see me take the same section, the same angle and everything all the way down to the nape. And I will comb this into the previously cut section. Now at this point I can either leave it a little longer in the nape or I can taper it in. I'm choosing to taper this in slightly so most of my ducktail is going to be a little higher up. You're still going to get it all the way through the center which you know the ducktail is where everything is combed to the center and then right down the middle of the back of the head it's combed straight down. So I'm taking parallel sections as I work through the back of the head and I'm combing that to the previously cut section. Now you can see here how I'm tapering that down slightly but I'm still combing everything all the way over to where that mastoid is on the right side of the head behind the ear. I'll comb it back and check and start seeing how I build up a little bit of length and I want this length to build up as it's going towards the center of the head. So I'm taking parallel sections at the ear combing everything to the ear all the way down to the nape, just being very very methodical with each section that I take with each section that I cut. I want to keep it as consistent as possible you know and the Osaka Scissor tends to be nice, sharp. It's got a good blade length on it so it gives me a little bit of uh power behind each scissor stroke so I can cut more hair. As you'll see here I'm taking everything from the center of the head pulling it over right behind the ear and cutting that on top of my previously cut guides. Slightly tapering it a little bit as I get to the nape but still leaving that length build up in the center of the back of the head. Now let's go through and look at it, see how we're shaping up. We can see I'm getting that length in the center of the back. Now let's go through and cross check. I'm going to start right on top of the ear and since I cut this initially vertically I'm going to go through and cross check horizontally. Be sure to follow us on your favorite social media@jataifeather. We got Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and even TikTok.   Ducktail Haircut Horizontal Sections Now after I finish cross checking the sides there, we're going to go through and take a horizontal section to the initial parting that I had. Now I'm going to take all the hair on top and pull over to my previously cut sections underneath. I'm holding this horizontally straight up from the head using my guide in the back as the shortest piece to make sure I blend in the back so I'm disconnecting it underneath as I get to the front of the hairline. Whatever that front bang length is, that's the length I'm cutting it to. I could leave it longer or I could leave it shorter it's really up to your preference on how you want the top of the hair to look. I'm going for a little bit of a pomp look so I want the front to be a little longer than it is in the crown. Now here you can really see how I'm blending the top into the back of the head and then just following my guide underneath being methodical point cutting that through so I have less worries about building up too much weight and it's going to blend a little bit easier. I want to keep the top really soft, textured, point cutted as opposed to going through and cutting it blunt. Then it's much harder to blend that way and I have to be far more precise. So keep following each section until I get all the way over to the center. Make sure that's cut. Now let's go through and taper it in right over the ear just a little bit more.   Cleaning up the Sides and Nape So I'm going to go through scissor over comb shorter at the uh parting right there, shorter at the sideburn and then tapering that up and just slowly working that up until I get that blended. Now I'm going to go through in the back. I'm just going to take a horizontal section right across the bottom and I'm going to cut that length that I built up from pulling it over to the side of the head off because I want this to be square in the back. Some people will leave it longer and allow that ducktail to flip out. I'm going to keep it much cleaner and more tapered into the back. After I get everything done there, I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing on the other side.   Creating the Ducktail After I do the other side, I'm going to come back and take a center section right in the back of the head. This section I'm going to go through and create a completely new guide. I'm going to hold it out and cut this vertically following the head shape going up the back of the head. By leaving the center in the back shorter, that allows that length build up from the sides to comb over and separate from the center of the back and gives it that really distinctive ducktail look. I'll check it. I think it needs to be a little bit shorter so I'm going to take it a little bit shorter. But I'm just going to go through very systematically, cut the center of the back out. Now I'll start combing this down check it out see how it combs over. I think it needs to be a little bit wider so I'm going to take and extend that a little bit to the right and a little bit to the left. So I'll start with a small section in the center about an inch wide see how the hair combs over it. If I need a little bit more width to be undercut in the center of the back of the head, then I'll expand that section and take a little bit more. This is just purely going to be based upon visually how you want that to look from combing the hair on the sides over the center and seeing how that falls. That's looking pretty good. I'm getting that separation right through there. So I'll do the same thing on the other side extend that a little bit to make sure I have an even amount of width in the back of the head.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and click the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai video content.   Now here you can see I'm broadening the width on the left side of the head so it matches the right side of the head. Check that out. See how that's looking. That's looking pretty good.   Addressing the Top Now let's move on to the top of the head. Now since I've already cut the top by pulling it to the left and to the right to make sure it blends with the left and the right and the undercut I'm just going to go through and hold everything up right in the center, take a center section. From my length in the front, I'm going to cut that down so it gets a little shorter towards the crown so that the emphasis of the length is right around the front and then it starts to blend as it goes to the back. Now because I pulled everything over to the left and to the right most of the length is going to be in the center of the top of the head. So by cutting this first section I will have very little hair that reaches on either side so it's mainly I have to cut the center of the top out so that it blends like I want it to. I'll just check here make sure both sides are even pulling everything to the center following my center cut guide to make sure that that has a nice pleasing silhouette from the side profile.   Styling and Finishing Touches After we do this let's blow it dry and take a look at it. I'll just use a vent brush and blow dry everything in kind of a pompadour style and make sure everything gets blown back into the center blowing each side into the center. Now we're going to take our Jatai Tokyo Thinning Scissors and go through and just blend where I did a little scissor over comb underneath there to make sure that's nice and soft and smooth through there. A little bit in the nape as well just to keep everything soft. I'm not going to go through and do the whole thing just right where I want it to taper a little bit more. Now we're going to go through and put a little bit of pomade on it just to get some separation right there in the front. We're going to pleat that front kind of pompadour to make it look a little more lived in and a little less Conway Twitty which is what this haircut really reminds me of. But this will keep it a little bit more modern and cooler and give it a little bit more of a distinctive look around the front. Overall, I think everything looks pretty good. I think we got a nice pleasing shape. The silhouette is really important when you're doing these pompadour type styles to have a good silhouette from a profile. And we're looking pretty good through there. Nice and tapered you can see how it's being combed into the center and then the center is being combed straight down so we got a nice little DA in the back. Check out the Jatai Academy! There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hair stylist. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will catch you next time. Thank you so much for watching.   Final Ducktail Haircut Look Vintage hairstyles of the 50's often had a distinct look. When it comes to the ducktail, we have that image of a higher pompadour look from the front and the sides combed in to the middle of the back. It's generally worn on straight hair rather than curly hair so that you can really see the ducks tails in the back. It's also distinctly characterized by greased back hair. The ducktail haircut is also known as a ducks ass haircut, duck haircut or DA duck hair. This push back hairstyle is a unique hairstyle from this time which hasn't really come back as a trendy look. However, the hair DA has remained an iconic look from this time period and will continue to do so.   Tutorial
How to Cut a Blunt Bob Tutorial

Tutorial

How to Cut a Blunt Bob Tutorial

One of the most fundamental techniques you should know as a hair professional is how to cut a blunt bob. The scissor techniques needed to get a perfectly straight blunt line takes skill and practice. But once you master how to do a blunt cut you can use these skills to do different kinds of haircuts like a medium blunt bob or a short angled bobs. Watch this video tutorial and follow along with the transcript below.   How to Cut a Blunt Bob:   Welcome back to the Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing an in-depth study of how to get a perfect solid one length line, all the things that you need to know, all the little tricks and all the habits that you need to practice to make sure that you can get a perfect one length blunt line and how to do a blunt haircut. So let's get started.   Sectioning The first thing I want to do is I want to go through and use a little bit of cutting lotion just to make sure that the hair has an even wetness, that it's easy to comb and glide everything through the hair so when I'm taking my sections and combing, I'm not fighting the sections. I like to use Jatai Blade Glide. It's nice. It's light and will not weigh down even the finest hair, but it constricts the cuticle and makes cutting so much smoother and so much easier. I took a natural center part down to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid. If the hair is really thick I will separate this in half. Very rarely do I ever take this into thirds because most hair is not really that thick so that brings me to the first concept is you can't have a section that's too thick or too thin. If the sections too thick then it's going to create a whole lot of scissor push which I'll get to in a second. But if it's too thin as well it's not going to give you a clean enough solid line that you can build off of and it makes subsequent sections harder to match. So I want enough thickness to where I can't really see through it but I don't want so much thickness that it makes my scissors push. The next thing we want to focus on is having a very very sharp scissor. The sharper your scissor the cleaner the cut that you're going to be able to make and also the thicker the sections that you're going to be able to work with.   Choosing the Right Scissor when Learning How to Cut Blunt Bob I'm using the Kyoto Scissor from Jatai. It has a nice fat blade. It has enough scissor weight behind it that I can really get behind and make sure I have a clean cut. What you're going to see a lot of times when people cut hair is it's going to look like I cut, I go in cut, and I go in. So when I do it fast it looks like that, but in reality what I'm doing is I put the scissor in and as I close the blade I cut on the backstroke. This will compensate for the amount of scissor push that I'm going to get. A sharper scissor is going to require less backstroke which will give you a cleaner cut line. Also, the sharper the scissor is the cleaner that it's going to cut the ends of the hair. If it cuts it kind of jagged, it's going to look kind of fuzzy so I want a nice sharp clean scissor.   Combing the Section Now from here I want to focus on how I'm combing the section. You'll notice when I hold the comb it's two fingers on one side, a thumb and a pinky on the other side. So that allows me to flip the comb and control it like this which is important for building tension. So I'll go through, I'll take a section right in the center. Each section that I take is going to be a flat section of head. So when I hold the comb against the head it's going to be flat. So I'm not cutting across any curved sections. So now from here I comb away from me so that I make sure I get all the hair at the scalp combed clean. If I don't get the hair combed clean from the scalp it's going to leave me an inconsistently cut line. So comb with the teeth facing away from my fingers and then I rock and rotate and I put my finger in. I just hold, put the finger on top. I do not drag that finger through creating any kind of tension. The only tension that this section has is the tension that was created in the comb. Now from here I want the comb to be perpendicular to the hair. I'm not going to turn this up and make it easier for me to see. I want to make sure that this is perpendicular to the hair where I want the line to be cut.   Making the Cut Scissor push is compensated for. Cutting on the backstroke. Now we have a perfectly clean cut line. On a human I will comb that down, get that little piece out of the way, and then cut this on the skin to compensate for any graduation that I get from my fingers. The next section, I will then with the head comb straight down. I'll compensate. So this is the angle. It matches on both sides so I comb that section, T to my parting. I do not put my fingers in, create tension and drag that section because then I'm going to have inconsistent tension throughout the section because my fingers are not going to be perfectly even. I'm going to have gaps. And where I have gaps it's not going to create the same tension. So I'm going to comb this down. The only tension that's being created is from the comb. Plant my finger. There's my guide. Put my scissor in. Cut on the back stroke to compensate. Boom! Perfectly clean blunt solid line. And we're going to do the same thing on the other side and match that as best we can. Comb down, create my tension, there's my scissor guide from the previous section in the center. Compensate. Check that out. Here I'm going to look and see if my sides are even and it looks like the left is a little longer. So instead of freaking out and crying I'm just going to go back and cut that side a little bit shorter. And I will take that in baby steps. And there is my line. Cut that down and through. Boom. A little nibble right there. Now let's check and see and that's looking pretty good. Now we've got our first section. So now we're going to go through and take a parallel section to that previous section which was what we took in the very beginning. Now we're going to take the rest of this section that we sectioned off in the nape and I'm going to go through and do exactly the same thing that I did before.   Cutting on Top of the Previously Cut Section in this Blunt Shoulder Length Bob Take the center section again. I want to make sure that it's flat. Comb that down. The only tension I get is from the comb itself. I'll lay my fingers right there where the previously cut section was, find my guide underneath, go through, compensate for scissor push and we are going to do what is technically the hardest thing to do in cutting hair and that's cutting this section directly on top of the previously cut section. That's the hardest thing you'll ever do when you're trying to cut hair. Everything else pales in difficulty compared to this section right here because I cannot be longer which this, if I'm like really neurotic about it is a little bit longer. So I'm going to go back in and try to cut just a whisper of hair off. That brings me to the next point that we really need to pay attention to and that is consistency of technique. So when we comb it's consistent every time that we comb down and through. When I hold it it's consistently the same and when I cut it's consistently the same. If it's not I'm going to have a lot of difficulty. Let me cut this. I can't talk and cut at the same time. I'm going to have a lot of difficulty repeating my cut line so I have to practice and comb and rehearse my skills over and over and over again just like a piano player would play, you know the scales and the chopsticks or whatever finger exercises that they have to get so that they can repeat the method every time and be exactly the same. That's only going to come with practice. Next section. Comb clean from the root all the way down through. There is my previously cut guide. Cut on top of that and that actually looks pretty good. I'm impressed by that section there. Wow. Don't expect that level of quality every time I cut but sometimes you're going to hit it right on top. You're going to hit the nail in the head. Remember it's not about being perfect on every little section. It's about you're perfect the majority of the haircut because there are going to be sections that I cut on this haircut that are not going to be right. They're going to be a little too short. They're going to be a little too long. A little too long is easier to fix than a little too short because if I go a little too short then I have to go back and cut the whole thing again just a little bit shorter. If it's a little bit longer it's easy to go back in and clean that up. So now we're going to look at this, see how that's looking and I got a little graduation right here. So I'm going to comb that down in my comb, cut that little bit off. Easy right? Easy. It's a simple concept but it's not easy to execute. You have to practice and be diligent with your technique to get this really clean. So now let's just continue on.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Starting in the center again where it's flat, get all this hair out of the way. Make sure the head is even and she's not sitting all cockeyed. Comb clean from the root all the way down, flip the comb creates the tension, plant my fingers. There's my guide. Cut directly on top of my previously cut section. Not shorter. Not longer. Directly on top. We've got everything done up into the ear section. So now we're going to bring this section down and I'm going to go through and do the same thing I was doing before just continuing to go up the head taking each individual subsection, combing everything down including the previously cut sections as my guide.   Compensating for the Ear And as I go up it gets easier and easier to see my guide. Now as I start to come around to the ear I have to approach that in a different way because I have this protrusion sticking out from the head that if I just comb the hair over it and pull it down it's going to compress the ear and then when I let go the ears going to flip up and then it's going to make this section get shorter. So what I'll do is I'll cut all the way up to the ear, get the ear hair and the ear out of the way so I don't have to deal with it until it's absolutely necessary. There's my guide. Cut directly on top of that as best you can. Clean that up as best as you can. Now as I come to the ear the way I'm going to deal with that is...there's a lot of different ways to deal with this section. There's no one way that is the end all be all way because the hair is different. Some hair is more voluminous and it gives you a lot more slop factor so it gives you more of a safety net that you don't have to worry about it. Thinner hair you have to worry about it more because it's more visible and it shows all the flaws of your technique. And if that hair gets shorter because I pulled it down, it's going to spring up. My line is going to go nice and straight and then have a nice little hole and continue straight again forward. So what I tend to do is I'll take the ear section, I'll comb everything down over the ear. Make sure that I go underneath the ear as I continue down and once I get here I'll gently hold the hair take the scissor and push under the ear so it starts to see the ear protrude from that section and it allows this hair right here to get pulled up. And then I will hold that down and cut that straight across. So now when I comb this down you're going to see how that gets a little bit longer right through there. I'm going to then ignore that because I have to cut it again once it's dry to clean it up. So that gives me a compensation over the ear so that when I dry it there I can fine tune it. Dry hair is not going to be as susceptible to graduation elevation from tension or through the protrusion of the ear as wet hair will be. The next section comb that straight down, no tension. There's my guide. Cut that straight and through. We're going to check and make sure our sides are even and that's looking pretty good. Now we're going to continue on until we run out of hair. Alright, so I think we got everything looking pretty good. So now let's go through and blow it dry. I'm going to blow dry as straight and as smooth as I can so that we can reveal the cut line as cleanly as we can reveal it.   Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Blow Drying & Styling the Short Blunt Cut Bob Hairstyle So we've gone through and blown everything dry. Got everything nice and smooth. Now I'm just going to go through and comb everything down and its natural fall and especially over the ears here to see if my little ear push compensated enough or it was too much. So we're going to comb everything down and I'm going to look and it looks like I've got a little bit right through there so I'm just going to go through and just freehand and take anything off right through there that I feel like doesn't really fit. Get that out of your face. There you go. You look like a million dollars. Thanks for watching. Please check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that'll make you better hairstylist and barber. Also let us know what you'd like to see in the future and until next time thank you for watching.   Final Blunt Short Hair Bob Look   Here is the final look of the mid length blunt bob. When you look at pictures of blunt haircuts, you might see a blunt bob with fringe, a blunt bob with side part, chin bob hairstyles or short angled bob haircuts. Blunt haircuts have many looks. Creating that perfectly straight line can be a defining feature of the look you're trying to create so it's best to know proper technique so you too can have the perfect blunt line. When it comes to hairstyles, doing a blunt cut bob for fine hair is pretty much the same as cutting a mid length bob for thick hair. The difference is that with fine hair you have to be more careful as you will see any flaws in your technique. Master this technique and you can do a blunt line on any type of hair with ease.   Tutorial
How to do a Medium Crew Cut with Clippers and Scissors

Tutorial

How to do a Medium Crew Cut with Clippers and Scissors

The medium crew cut is a very classic crew look that many men sport. You might also compare it to an ivy league crew or short crew cut. Crew cuts are very versatile and are generally short on the sides and back with a slightly longer top. The style is a popular men's haircut and it's easy to see why! Crew cut hairstyles generally don't have a very short taper fade and definitely not a skin fade. The hair is slightly longer than that. And because it's more of a rounded look, it doesn't have a flat top. It's not a buzz cut either. You can do this type of cut on curly hair but you will have to pay a little more attention to details. Watch this tutorial taught by Russell Mayes and learn how to do a crew cut. Also, follow along with the transcript.   Medium Crew Cut Tutorial:   Welcome back to the JATAI Academy! Today we're going to be doing a study on how to do a crew cut. So let's get started. So today we're going to talk about doing a crew cut. Before we get started it's good to know the differences between a typical crew cut and then just most masculine shortcuts. A crew cut is basically a short back and sides and a little longer on top which is very common. But most short masculine cuts have a squarish shape, where a crew cut tends to have a rounder shape and tends to be a little shorter on top. Now it gives you a lot of versatility. You can either go longer in the front and then blend that through or you can take everything kind of short on top. Or it can be equal to the sides so you have a lot of versatility and a lot of variation. So what we're going to cover today is we're going to take everything short in the sides and back and we're going to leave the top a little longer, a little longer here in the front as well. And then we're going to comb everything forward and see what we got.   Classic Crew Cut Clipper Over Comb So starting I'm going to start in the back and I can take a clipper and I can put a guard on it and I can run it up the back normally like I would taper most haircuts but today what I'm going to do is I'm going to work on my clipper over comb. So doing some clipper over comb work, I'm going to make sure I comb everything straight down. And clipper over comb is about getting a rhythm of the clipper motion across the comb. When I put the comb in, I angle it at whatever angle that I want my graduation to be, my taper to be, and then I just follow that up the top. Now when I first start there's no guide so I'm basically just using the force to guess where I want my tapering to be and then I can use that as my guide for going to the left and my guide for going to the right. So what that looks like is I'll turn the clipper on, put the comb in, angle that out from the scalp at whatever angle that I think I need. And then that's the angle I'm going to go up and then run the clipper across the comb. And here I'm basically just guessing at what length I want this to be. I'm not being very discerning about how perfect it is. I'm just looking for the overall lengths and I think we can go a little shorter there. So we're going to take that a little shorter through there as well. And now as I start to go up the back of the head I want to fight the urge that I have of up and out because that's most of my training is always short and up and out. But a crew cut is up and over so it keeps that shape kind of round. So once I get my basic taper in like this then I can start to work one side or the other. Now I've got my guide in the middle. I use that as my guide and then just cut this side off here. Now as I press the clipper against the comb I'm not using a lot of force. Right? It's just very lightly tracing the comb.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future JATAI videos.   And I'm just going to follow that up and through. I want to make sure that I'm not holding my breath because if I hold my breath, I tend to make my hand shake. And when you're using clipper over comb like this you want to keep as steady a hand as possible. Working that up and through. Now once I reach the mastoid which is this bump right behind the ear, I've got everything cut through here like I want. I'm not too worried about my blend right here. We'll get to that when I start using my scissors. I'm just working on tapering everything down nice and smooth. Once I get to the mastoid I'm now going to skip and go right to the sides. Now on my side I'm going to start here at the ear and I'm going to go short and work that straight up, work everything straight up. I am tapering it in two dimensions here. I'm tapering it going from ear up and I'm tapering it from the front going back. Now once I've gotten everything cut to the top of the ear I will then go through and blend at this angle and that angle is usually going to be parallel to my front hairline. It's going to be parallel to this hairline from the mastoid down to the corner of the hairline. So I'm trying to keep everything even and smooth because most head shapes arc down a little bit. So if I continue that all the way through the back I'm going to end up cutting the crown too short and it's going to make his head shape look funky. So this ensures that I don't cut my crown completely out of it. Check that out, see how we're looking. I'm going to take a little tighter right down here in the nape. Now once I've got the sides and the back done and I got my transition from the front to the back I'm going to go through and do the same thing to the other side.   Crew Hair Cut Scissor Cutting So now we've gone through and we've shampooed our model. Gloriously I might say. Now let's work on cutting the length on the top and blending that into the sides. If you've seen previous videos, you've seen me do a walking guide. I'll take the first section here on the side and I'll cut that length. I'll add the second section into the first and combine them and make one section. So I have section one and two combined. Cut that into the center. I'll remove section one. I have section two and three combined. Section three and four and four and five and so on and I'll walk that guide length all the way around the back of the head. I'm going to do the same thing here on the top, but I'm not going to take any sections. I'm going to do a very classic barber approach where I'm going to start in the front. I'm going to pull the front back to maintain length and then I'm going to walk my guide all the way through in the back. And as long as I'm consistent about how much I'm moving each time going back I'll end up with a nice clean line. So I've got my section. I'm going to comb everything forward. I'm going to comb everything back to where I think the recession is or maybe a little bit further back. I'm going to pull that up and then I'm going to go through and cut whatever length that I want. So now I've got my whole guide linked on the top. I'm going to go to the left, cut that through and I'm rounding the shape out. Usually I keep that shape pretty square and I am using my Osaka Scissors from Jatai because I have a little bit more blade length and it's got a little bit more weight to it so I can cut a thicker section of hair. I don't need to be real precise with it. Now I'm going to go back a finger length back, and I'm going to cut using my guide length from the front. I'll go a finger length back, cut using that guide length from the front. A finger length back, same thing and I'm going to keep going until I run out of hair in the crown. As long as I'm methodical with how far back I'm moving each time, I'll end up with a nice clean line. Comb forward again and now I'm going to start working on the left side. I have two guides. I have a guide in the front and a guide in the center. And I'm cutting that following both of those two guides from the front and working that all the way into the back. This is a very very quick fast way of going through and motoring through a lot of hair. I'm not worried about being real precise with everything. I just want to be very very methodical in my approach. As I work that around, go through, we'll check this out from the other angle. Now I'm going to go through and do the same thing on the other side. So now after I've got all the top done, I'm not worried about blending on the sides right now. We'll get that last. But after I've cut the whole top I want to go through and cross cut it the same way. I'm going to pull everything into the center and any little bits that may hang out I'm just going to go through and trim. And there's not a whole lot because I was very very consistent with moving my fingers back at an equal distance every time. So just go through just cross check anything that hangs out. There's a little nibble there. I'm just going to go through and clean that up. This is just to make sure everything grows out nice and smooth.   Men Crew Cut - Blending Okay so now that we've got everything cut on the top and blend that into the back, I want to make sure everything blends in my transitions from the top to the bottom. So I'll just take vertical sections. You can see where my tapering was and I'm just going to go through and make sure everything blends from the bottom to the top. And I'm going to work that line up and over and blend in. Now if you feel more comfortable starting in the front and then working to the back that's perfectly fine. There's no correct method of where you start versus where you finish. What ultimately matters is that everything blends and is proper and fits the head shape.   Follow us on all your favorite social media such as Instagram @jataifeather   And everything's looking pretty smooth through there. If I find I got a little bit too much taper through there, I can go through and this works really well with my Osaka Scissors because they're so much longer than the other scissors that I have. I've got that extra blade length that makes it easy for me to go through and scissor over comb.   Mens Crew Cut Fringe Looking pretty good. Same thing on the other side. So all that leaves us now is to deal with our fringe in the front, our bangs in the front. So depending upon if I want this brushed up and back. Right? Very very collegiate that way. Or I can have it much shorter and kind of combed over. There's a lot of things that I can do to this. So it just depends upon how short you want this and what look you're going for and how their hair reacts. If they have a lot of cowlicks then probably longer is better so you can control it a little bit easier. So let's go through and just keep it fairly long but I'm going to even it up so it doesn't come to a point in the front. So when I do that I'm going to take and I'm going to pull it out at that angle and then we're going to go through and point cut this through. A point cut soft line is going to be much more pliable and movable than if I was to cut that blunt. Blunt lines tend to not move as easy as soft textured cut lines. Just go through take a little bit of that corner off right there. Looking pretty good. See that little corner right there. It's very subtle but that subtlety will make a big difference. The only other thing I might add is if the person has wavy hair or has a lot of cowlicks or they have a bunch of indentations in their head and their heads not smooth you may get some darkness and some lightness through there you can't blend out very easily.   Tracing this Crew Cut for Men Then I'm going to go through with my Tokyo Thinning Scissors. I'm going to put the cutting blade on the bottom and then I'm going to go through and just trace what was already cut. I'm not trying to go back in and re-cut anything. I'm just tracing that previously cut taper that I put in through there and that will make everything mesh together and blend a lot smoother. And this will also help with any kind of waviness that's starting to stick out or kick out it will soften that line and like I said in the bangs it will make it much more pliable and much easier to move. With my Tokyo Thinning Scissors take that little nibble off right there, that doesn't want to act right. There we go. Much better. Looks pretty good. We got a nice even smooth clipper over comb around the bottom. We got a nice round shape on top, a little longer in the front. You can puff that up. You can bring it down. You got a lot of variety there that you'd like. You can comb it and make him look very very Wall Street or you can crop the whole thing up make him look very edgy. Yes you need to look... well no maybe not that edgy. Well only on the weekend okay. Only on the weekend. Anyway, kind of looks like Kyle McLaughlin to me. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there that'll make you a better hairdresser, make you better barber. You can also check links below to find the scissors that I use. They're fantastic and for the price it's hard to beat. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and until then I shall see you next time. Thank you so much for watching!   Final Look of the Crew Cut Haircut   A crew cut can complement any face shape and can pair with facial hair. The modern crew cut is worn by many boys and men for it's versatile look. We hope this crew cut style haircut tutorial was easy to follow along and understand.   Tutorial
HOW TO Lob Haircut Tutorial: Pleated Long Bob Hairstyle

Tutorial

HOW TO Lob Haircut Tutorial: Pleated Long Bob Hairstyle

Looking for a how to lob haircut tutorial? Look no further. This will give you all the details and instruction on how to create a pleated lob haircut which is basically a blunt lob but with a little texture for movement. The tutorial uses scissors as the tool of choice. Creating pleats in the lob is a great technique for thick hair to create little bit of movement but still give a blunt look. The end result is a beautiful long bob hairstyle. You can follow along in this how to lob haircut tutorial video taught by Russell Mayes, Director of Content for Jatai, as well as find finer details in the transcript below.   How to Lob Haircut: Welcome back to Jatai Academy! Today we're going to be doing a long bob, the lob haircut. And we're going to add some pleats or some corrugation to it to help control thickness and to give it a little bit more interest. So let's get started. So what really differentiates a bob from a lob is obviously the length so a lob technically is going to hit right at the collar bone. If it's above the collar bone but not quite to the top of the ears that's really no man's land. Because of the way that the shoulders curve, it forces it to flip so it has to be at least to the collar bone so it can kind of cup under. And what will help cup it under especially if you have really thick hair is to add what I'll call pleating to it where we'll take one section and cut it blunt. The next section we're going to point cut it and get some texture to it. The next section we'll cut blunt and then we'll make each other layer have some texture and have some pleating to it. And that's going to give you a little bit more control when you're trying to make that hair cup under to keep it from flipping out.   Baseline Blunt Cut So I've sectioned everything off, natural center part to the crown, crown to the occipital bone, occipital bone to the mastoid right behind the ear. This gives me my foundation line, my base line that everything else is going to be built off of. I'm going to start with my Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC. It's the sharpest scissor that I have in my Arsenal it's got a nice uh fat blade on it so it has some weight when I close down and cut so I can cut a thicker section. And even on smaller sections it'll give me a cleaner line because it's got that weight to really chop that hair off in a nice clean blunt line. So I'm going to start right in the center. I'm going to comb everything straight down in natural fall. Now since my mannequin head obviously doesn't have any shoulders, I want to pay attention to where I think the shoulders would be and the collar bone would be and I'm going to go about an inch past where my head ends thinking that that's going to be about where a collar bone is going to be on most people. And I want to hit it right at the collar bone as close as I can. So I'll comb everything down, straight down not flip my fingers, use my ring finger for support, take my scissors, as I close the scissor I'll pull back on the blade and cut that as blunt as possible. If I feel I need to, I'll go back in, clean that up. Now if I have a human, then what I can do is at this point I can comb it down on the skin and go through and clean up any slight graduation that I have from holding it in my fingers. Since I don't have that I'm just going to move on. The next section, I'm going to comb back within the boundaries of this hairline so it's going to leave it a little bit longer in the front, but since her head is tilted down that's going to compensate for that. Comb everything clean nice and through, there's my guide, ring finger to support, cut on the back stroke all the way through. Now I have my lob line starting to go through where I think the collar bone is going to be. Do the same thing on the other side.   Pleating Round 1 That's looking pretty good, pretty even to me. Now I'll take my next section in which I'm going to start my pleating. I'll measure where that head is flat so where I lay the comb against the head, where it touches the head, that's going to determine the width of my section. And I'm going to follow the same angle of my original parting. Now this brings me to one of the problem areas that I have when I'm trying to pleat or trying to add some texture to inner layers. If I take my section like I normally would and I comb this down, there's my guide, and I start texturizing it or point cutting it, I'm basically going to point cut my original line and the new section. So what I want to do is I want to go through and remove the original parting or at least the majority of it, comb this down where I think the other line is. I'm going to guess at my length and by adding some texture and guessing at my length I will go through and add some deep texture to that section and not worry if it's exactly on top of my previously cut section. I just want to go through and make sure I get some deep texture to it. After I cut that I can comb the entire section down, see what hangs off and then go through and cut that length off. Let's go again here on this side. I want to remove my original section, at least the majority of it. I'll take my next section comb that down where I think I ought to be cutting. And then I'll go through, deep cut and pleat that section. Take my next section, comb that through within the boundaries of my hairline, pleat that through some deep point cuts. What I'm basically trying to do is remove weight and create some movement to it. After I finish the entire section, I'll comb everything down. Anything that hangs over I'll cut off. If it tends to be a little shorter on those pleated sections that's okay as long as it's not a big gap of being short. If it's a little longer I can clean that up by going through and cutting my blunt length. So let's do the same on the other side. We're going to...there's my original. My next section hold this straight down in natural fall, there's my previously cut pleated line.   Click subscribe, give us a thumbs up and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Cut that down and through. My last piece here, comb within the boundaries. There's my line. Pleat cut that at what I guesstimate the line should be. If it's a little longer when I comb that down, I'll cut those pieces off. Now we're going to comb everything down. I'll check my...come here... I'll check my length on both sides. That's still looking pretty good. Now I'll move on to my third section.   Blunt Cutting Third section is going to be the same. I'll lay the comb against the head where it's flat and then I'll use that as my section depth and then bring that all the way around to the side of the head, pin this cleanly out of the way...if I can... if I can get a pin in there. Clip that up there. We go same thing on the other side now since I pleated the last section. This section is going to be cut blunt so I'm going to follow the same methodology that I have for when I cut everything one length. I take my section. It's going to be a flat width of section. I'll comb that straight down in natural fall. There's my guide from underneath. I'll use my ring finger to support and cut on the back stroke to make that as blunt as I can. I will follow that section all the way around cutting everything as blunt as possible. Then just double checking, combing everything as clean as consistent as possible and making sure my line is nice and blunt and even not too much longer in the front not too much shorter in the front. Just kind of even all the way around. A little longer in the front is okay but not shorter. So now I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. All right, so now we've got that. Let's check and see how off we are. And that's actually not bad that is actually not bad at all. I got...wow I might actually charge you for this haircut. It looks pretty even, looks pretty even.   Pleating Round 2 So now let's move on to our next section which will be another pleated section. Okay we've got our next section and we're beginning to run out of hair but the methodology is going to be exactly the same. Comb this through where I think the length should be, take my Jatai Kyoto Scissors by BMAC and then go through and deep point cut that whole section to create some pleating through there which will remove some weight and make it easier to move the hair left and right and cup it under. Remove the previously cut section, comb everything down in its natural fall. I think we're going to be about right there go, through point cut that through, small piece of that as my guide.   Follow us on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   Comb this down natural fall. There's my previously cut guide, go through point cut deep channel that, small piece as my guide. The last section here, comb through everything straight down natural fall. I see a little bit of my guide from underneath. Deep channel point cut that. Now I'll just comb everything straight down including the sections underneath and you can see I've got a little bit of length hanging over which is okay. And I will clean up any of that length that hangs over. I still have my deep channel point cut pleat through there. This is just cleaning up the ends to make sure everything matches at my one length lob length. I forgot what I was saying there. Looking pretty good. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Okay so when I'm cutting a lob and I'm going to add some pleading to it.   Last Section - Blunt Cutting I want to start with a blunt line and I want to finish with the blunt line. I want the intersections to be point cut but I want to start and finish with a blunt line. So this is my last section combing everything down in its natural fall and just cutting everything one length and blunt. Now I know what you're thinking, I know what you're asking. You're going to ask me 'well why not just point cut the whole thing?' If I point cut the whole thing, I don't end up with as blunt of an overall shape and all I want to do is put some invisible pleating in it to allow it to style easier. I'm not trying to necessarily make it look textured. I want it to look blunt and solid, but I want to be able to add some movement into it by me cutting it internally adding those pleats internally so they're invisible. Comb everything in its natural fall. Anything that hangs over we will cut off. Comb through. There's my guide length make sure that I on top of my previously cut guide and not cutting it shorter and not cutting it longer but staying exactly...come here... on top of that. Do the same thing on the other side and then let's see what we got. Let's check and see how perfect it is. Yeah, not bad. I think I've got a little more length on the left side right here in the front, but I'm not going to worry about that right now I'm going to blow it dry and then I'll check it again once everything's blown dry.   Finished Pleated Lob Result Here's our finished result blown dry, smoothed out. We've got a nice really really solid one length shape but it has a little bit more movement and flexibility with how we can control whether it flips under so it will give a more refined shape to it. So it won't be quite so broom like and stiff because that pleating gives you that breathability internally without beveling the shape. If we were to go through and point cut the whole thing it would bevel this shape and make it look slightly layered and graduated on the bottom and you would see that. But now since we've done every other and we started with blunt and ended with blunt, it's still going to have that blunt un-graduated un-layered shape. So I think we did pretty good. I think the length is pretty good. Let's get some hair out of your face girl. Check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of great information on there to make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and thank you so much for watching our video. We'll see you next time.   Tutorial
Octopus Haircut vs. Wolf Cut - Octopus Hair Tutorial

Tutorial

Octopus Haircut vs. Wolf Cut - Octopus Hair Tutorial

There are so many different hair trends with various names. Two popular hairstyles are the wolf cut and octopus cut. An octopus haircut vs. wolf cut have several differences. A wolf cut is layered more around the face while an octopus has layers all around. Octopus styles have a puff of volume in the crown and less weight in the lengths whereas the wolf cut has a more solid perimeter shape. Both are easy to style and wear whether it be keeping it straight or putting in loose curls or waves. It can be done on curly hair, medium to longer hair and the styling requires little product. They also look good with any hair color. These are 2 beauty trend styles that are classic and timeless. In this article we will discuss how to do an octopus haircut. You can watch the video below and follow along with the transcript. If you'd like to how to do a wolf haircut, see the very bottom of the article for a link to a wolf cut tutorial.   Octopus Haircut Tutorial: Welcome to the Jatai Academy. Today we're going to be covering how to do an octopus layered haircut which is basically a layered haircut with a little bubble on top but we're going to do it a little different than last time. This time it's going to be much more textured. It's going to have a lot more separation to it and a little bit more fullness. So let's get started.   Establishing the Perimeter and Sectioning Before I go through and section off everything for my layering I want to go through and make sure that I have the perimeter length at the length that I want. So I'm going to start by taking a center section straight down the back of the head and while I'm not worried that this line is perfectly crisp and solid and straight, I do want a crisp point cut to it. I want a real deep crisp point cut to force it to separate into pieces stronger. So I'm going to use my Kyoto Scissors from Jatai. These are the sharpest scissors that I have. It's got a nice blade so when I go through and do a deep point cut on it because it's sharp I'm going to get a really nice crisp line to it. Take everything down. Any part that hangs off that looks kind of gnarly we're going to take off and I want a real crisp point cut into this length. I'm going to show you how I've sectioned out the head. I've taken a natural or center part straight back to the quarter part, quarter part straight down to the center of the spine. From the top of the head I go to the top of the ear. That's going to be my quarter part. So I have front and back. Now in the back I'm going to separate from the drop crown which is the section between the top of the head and the occipital bone. It's right there in the middle. It's also the top of the parietal ridge on the side. So it's going to go straight across. This is going to be my shortest part and then everything else is going to blend in from that.   Top Section I'm going to go through take a center section. I'm going to pull this section straight up and I want to kind of cut this horizontally across the top. So I'm going to pull this straight up and across, figure out where my shortest length is going to be, point cut that straight across the top. So now I'm going to take my next section. It's going to be parallel to this center section. I'm going to pull this guide right into my second section. So I have the first section and the second section. I'm going to comb those two together and in the center of that section, using my center as the guide, I'm going to cut that straight across. From here I'm going to remove the center section. Now I have section number two. We're going to go through take section number three which is parallel to section number two. I'm going to comb those two into the center of both of those two sections, hold straight up towards the ceiling, follow my center guide or my previously cut guide, cut that straight across the top. After I've removed section number two at section number three I'm just going to comb everything else straight up into section number three, go through cut that across. I have the center section on the first side. Now I'm going to go through and take a parallel section to that on the second side and repeat the same steps I did on the first side where I'm combing everything into the previously cut section and cutting that straight across.   Give us a thumbs up, click subscribe and the notification bell to be notified of future Jatai Academy content.   Bottom Section Okay so we got our top done. Now let's move into the bottom. We're going to take a center section all the way down. So now what I want to do is the first section I held that straight up. Now from here I'm going to hold this straight up, but I'm also going to angle my fingers so I can go from this short piece to this long piece down here in the bottom. I've already cut this so I'm going to get that out of the way. Small piece. I'm going to pull that straight up, angle my fingers, continue my point cut as I go from short to long. Take a small piece as my guide. We're going to take the rest of this section. Again, pull straight up, angle my fingers all the way down to my length. Now from here I'm going to pivot as I go around. Before I was doing parallel. Now I'm going to pivot. Remove the top. I've already cut. Then take a small section here, comb everything clean from the root all the way straight up. There's my guide. I'm working my angle, cutting that down and through. Take the rest of the section. If I need to I'll break it down into smaller sections. Comb that up. I see my guide from underneath. Cut that down and through. Good. Now we're going to remove my center section and add my next pivot, just following the same pattern that I was doing before, combing everything straight up to the ceiling. There's my guide from underneath, follow that through, get the previously cut hair out of the way up and out. Come on there we go. Next section up and out. Now we're going to take our last section, remove the top. I've already cut that. Before I was walking the guide around but once I reach the corner of the hairline I'm going to pull everything in back to that corner the hairline into this previously cut section. Up and out. There's my guide. Cut that through. Remove the previously cut section pulling this down and through up. There's my length on the bottom. I'm going to go through. Cut that down and through. Alright let's check ourselves out here and see how we're looking. We've got a nice short amount of layering on the top. Because this was layered at a lower elevation because it was layered at 90 it's going to have more weight than the hair underneath of it which was actually held at a higher elevation going all the way up. It was probably held at about a 180. So because the top is going to have more weight it's actually going to have more volume because it's going to be more solid. The underneath because it's been over layered it's going to have a tendrilly effect. So you're going to have this weight build up here in the crown and then a tendrilly effect underneath. So now let's go through and do the same thing on the other side.   Sides Now that I finished my layering in the back I'm going to move into the sides and I want to make sure that I keep everything an even wetness. And I want to make sure that I can keep the cuticle as compact as possible. So I'm using Jatai Blade Glide. This will help keep everything crisp and compact and also an even moisture content throughout. I'm going to take a section from behind my quarter part. That's going to be the guide for the layering as I work around the front. I'm now going to go through and take a parallel section to my quarter part, my quarter part straight up and down. So I want to make sure that this section is straight up and down. So now I have my parallel section plus a guide from the back half of the head. I'm going to go through pull this up and now from here I have to go to this length on the side so we're going to extremely angle that layering around the front half of the head. We're going to blend it through at the very top. Make sure that this length right here blends with the length behind it and then from there I'm creating a completely new guide. Comb everything straight up going from short to long as I'm working that through all the way down to my perimeter length pulling everything straight up. There's my perimeter length cutting that down and through. It's more important when I'm doing extreme angles of layering like this. It's far more important that it blends top to bottom meaning from here to here then it does front to back. So we're not worrying if it blends front to back. We're only worrying if it blends top to bottom. My next section should be very little hair especially because of our receding hairline. I'm going to pull this straight back into the previously cut section. There is my guide going short to long pulling straight up towards the ceiling and making sure that blends top to bottom. Pulling this straight back to my quarter part, pulling everything back to the quarter part. There's my guide from underneath cutting that through. That's going to do very nicely. So now let's go through and do the same thing on the other side. Okay so we've got our layering done. So now let's go through and just make sure that all of our layering around the front has a nice smooth blend to it.   Blending and Weight Removal So I'm going to go through take a center section lay the comb flat against the head where it leaves the head straight down to the top of the ear. Going to do this on both sides. From here I'm going to take a little pie section right in the middle. We're going to comb it forward off peak curvature of the head and then we're going to go through deep point cut that so I have a nice crisp point cut because I'm using my sharp Kyoto Scissors. Comb that out of the way. Going to pull this forward as well and just make sure that we have some nice crispy point cuts around this front to help with separation and I'm only going to do it to this section right here. Same thing on the other side. Oh we can already see how that's starting to flick better on its own. Now let's blow it dry see how we look and see where we need to add some texture to it. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to comb out and right in the midsection I'm going to take my Tokyo Thinning Scissors and go and hit just right in the middle. Pull that out so that way I can thin some hair and create a little bit more movement just in the middle. And I'm only going to do that in the thickest areas where I feel like it's not really flowing that well. So I'll comb this out. I'll say a little there a little there. We're going to pull that out. Go up. You can see it right through there.  Boom boom boom and I think that that's going to flow a lot better once we get some of that internal thickness out of it. Comb out. We can see not much there, a little bit right there. Comb up. That's looking pretty good.   Give us a follow on your favorite social media platform @jataifeather   There we're going to pull some of that, take that, pull that out. This is purely subjective and visual where you feel like the hair needs a little extra removal and I'm just going to continue doing this throughout the rest of the head. Here's our end result and I think that uh we're looking pretty good. We got a nice little bit of movement around the front. We've got a nice solid crown with some good volume because this is nice and short but it's still a solid shape through here in the crown which ends up going really soft and tendrilly and really layered underneath. And I think that's what really gives this shape you know the the octopus you know vibe is where it's solid and full here and tendrilly and long and soft underneath. So I think it looks pretty good. I think it looks nice and you look fabulous my dear. Also check out the Jatai Academy. There's all kinds of fantastic content on there that will make you a better hair stylist and barber. Let us know what you'd like to see in the future and we will see you next time. Thank you so much for watching.   Final Look Haircut Octopus Style To see how to do a wolf cut, watch this video Soft Wolf Razor Haircut.   Tutorial

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